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dxc
August 22nd, 2014, 08:11
Hey I am getting ready to install stevekens 01E kit in my rs6 and plan on dropping the subframe with engine/trans and doing a few other things while its out. I noticed from reading the forum that common things are SAI delete, aux rad delete, downpipes, etc. Anything else I'm missing that I should do?

I remember matt@raven mentioning they were going to fit 770s. Did this ever happen?

Whats the most powerful / fastest rs6?

Has anyone found the limit on the block?

I assume the rods are the first thing to go?

They use a 154x21 rod same as a 2.7t right?

My plan for now is to run some hybrid rs6 turbo with stiffer wastegates. I can only imagine what 770s on this car would be like!!

Excited to get the project started and read the SSP on the RS6 again in preparation!!

Other_Erik
August 22nd, 2014, 13:15
Some things to look into whilst you have the engine out and 01E going in:

Header wrap - 2"wide Titanium-embedded wrap, start at the front of the rear catalytic converters, wrap to the rear of the inline pre-cats, then from the front of the pre-cats to the headers.
Turbo swap - with the smaller 01E going in, you've got more room to fit larger turbos
Once you've figured out your turbos, throw blankets on those snails!
Bolt/hose inspection - take this opportunity to throw a fresh gates belt, water pump pulley, idler pulleys, etc... check for play in every external bearing, replace as needed
Leak check - Obvious ones are VC gaskets and cam seals, but a good degrease + wipe down will let you see more minute leaks that could stand attention.
EGT Sensors - if you haven't had these replaced, now's a good time to at least inspect them. Typical issue is the solder inside the EGT signaling box going crapola. Flux and desolder, resolder with a high-temp (no-lead, high nickel, low tin) solder, and dielectric grease on top
O2 sensors - It's only a matter of time before they go. If you haven't replaced before now, you may want to consider going through the minor expense
Brake ducts - stock ducts deliver "adequate" airflow - consider stepping up to VW Phaeton ducts for more CFM to cool off your rotors more efficiently. Keeping the temp down helps your brakes last longer and perform more consistently.
Wagner IC's/hoses/shrouds (optional removal of fog lamps) - Wags are the best (only?) kit available for our platform. Others have pieced together their own for more flow both on the air and the water sides if you want to roll your own.
Thorough degreasing and rust/corrosion inhibitant - seems like it'd be pretty common-sense, but I haven't seen others take the ball and run with this. Every bare-metal component you remove, give it a good degreasing (even just tap water+ dawn soap), thoroughly dry, scuff up smooth surfaces (remove any dust left behind!), and paint it with POR-15. Never worry about rust or corrosion again.
Splash Guard - I know they're not cheap, and they tend to trap a bit of heat in the bay, but underside protection is important, and with your turbos and exhaust wrapped, I'm willing to put money down that your engine bay ambient temps drop at least 30 degrees if done correctly. Don't forget to check all your splash guard mounting hardware - I've seen pics where lazy service techs reattach with a couple zip ties instead of taking the time to clip/screw everything back together
Heat/noise insulation (boom-mat or any other commercially available) - This is one of those things I consider "nice to have" - it serves no purpose but my own comfort. Flying down the road at (insert speed limit here), I hear nothing but the occasional tire noise.
Pre-Cat gutting - If your state doesn't require strict emissions, gut those pre-cats for ~4-10hp gain
Alternator Diode preventative replacement - One of those "If it hasn't gone bad, just wait..." don't forget to check for play in the alternator pulley, and consider rebuild/replacement of the full assembly
Radiator and Heater core de-gunk and fins straightened - If your radiator is in good shape, a full flush with high pressure water will push out gunk you'll wish you'd never seen. Straightening the fins will optimize flow across any area where there's been hard enough impact to bend, and will give you a chance to pick all the bugs out as well. Don't forget the heater core! Not much room for buildup, but you'll certainly regret not flushing it if it ever does get clogged - not a fun job in the middle of winter, that...
Here's an item that's not necessarily "performance" related, but is at least a good idea - check your damn headlights! Mine were just replaced due to the mounting tabs getting snapped off when the girlfriend hit a pothole (among many other problems stemming from that), and I didn't quite get the parts in time to have the shop swap the incandescent crap turn signal bulb out for a shiney new LED bulb - now if I want to replace it myself, I have to unmount the front bumper... pic related

http://claimyourjourney.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/screen-shot-2013-01-20-at-10-26-50-pm.png

I'm sure others will chime in, but this (minus the turbo swap, plus a new trans filter/fluid/tube nip) is my short list for the next time 905530 goes under the knife.

Avus-RS6
August 22nd, 2014, 19:16
AMD is doing a 770 RS6, I think. It's believed that the stock block will handle what the 770's can blow, probably not much more, if at all. Erik has good suggestions, way more info and knowledge than I have on these cars.

ben916
August 22nd, 2014, 19:40
Hey I am getting ready to install stevekens 01E kit in my rs6 and plan on dropping the subframe with engine/trans and doing a few other things while its out. I noticed from reading the forum that common things are SAI delete, aux rad delete, downpipes, etc. Anything else I'm missing that I should do?

I remember matt@raven mentioning they were going to fit 770s. Did this ever happen?
Whats the most powerful / fastest rs6?
Has anyone found the limit on the block?
I assume the rods are the first thing to go?
They use a 154x21 rod same as a 2.7t right?
My plan for now is to run some hybrid rs6 turbo with stiffer wastegates. I can only imagine what 770s on this car would be like!!
Excited to get the project started and read the SSP on the RS6 again in preparation!!

With the D/P, you might also relocate the O2 sensors for easier access or even delete them - up to you, also based on the tune you use.
Might go with a resonator delete?

I remember that Matt@raven was planning on adding 770 to Ricarrdo's 6speed RS6 but I think $$$$$ was the holdup/challenge.

Fastest/powerful C5 US RS6 might be RS600 or Special Sauce or one of those Champion RS6 racers.
Fastest/Powerful C5 RS6 might be in the UK
Fastest/Powerful RS6 might be the C6 RS6 in the UK at MRC or MTM.

Limit on block is probably better defined and investigated in the Gumpert Apollo. 800hp out of a 4.2V8 TT.

There was a thread about aftermarket rods some time back, search will be your friend.
There were differences between the 2.7l rods and the 4.2l rods.
There were differences between the 4.2l rods and the 4.2ltt rods.
Steveken or Bigglezworth might have more info on this one.

As far as the hybrid turbos, are you doing the research or did someone else calculate the hybrid turbos for you?

It sounds like you are opening your wallet mighty wide...
Research at Dahlback, MTM, MRC, Unit 20 might prepare you for the costs and potential slide effects...

Have fun!

lswing
August 22nd, 2014, 19:43
Custom headers if you really want big power. Quality custom tune. Bigger turbos, fuel pump(s), rails, injectors. Sounds like you're already upgrading IC's. Water meth also for cooling...

ben916
August 22nd, 2014, 19:44
Custom headers if you really want big power. Quality custom tune. Bigger turbos, fuel pump(s), rails, injectors. Sounds like you're already upgrading IC's. Water meth also for cooling...

opps, forgot about that one!
3" Milltek or custom

Bigglezworth
August 23rd, 2014, 02:27
There was a thread about aftermarket rods some time back, search will be your friend.
There were differences between the 2.7l rods and the 4.2l rods.
There were differences between the 4.2l rods and the 4.2ltt rods.
Steveken or Bigglezworth might have more info on this one.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/450408-S6-S8-engine-differences-from-A6-A8

Avus-RS6
August 23rd, 2014, 03:00
dxc, these your turbos? RS6 K04 Turbos, Blouch Built, New CHRA's with Billet 2283 compressor, clipped turbine wheels, K03/04 wastegates?

yokust
August 23rd, 2014, 03:07
Buy my used Loba650's hint hint

But back on subject, I have S6 block and RS6 block apart sitting in the shop, rods are the same between the two. Have the same casting numbers.

And yes you can use the 2.7t rods in the motor.

Mine is getting a set of IE rods that are rifled drilled

Avus-RS6
August 23rd, 2014, 03:10
2.7 rods should be good to over 600awhp over 8 cylinders.

yokust
August 23rd, 2014, 03:33
2.7 rods should be good to over 600awhp over 8 cylinders.

By theory this is true. But they are the same crap cast rods in all turbo VAG cars, so not the most confidence behind the rods. There are crap cast rods and have let go in many 1.8t or 2.7t in power levels that others do not break. Its cast they suck....period

dxc
August 23rd, 2014, 05:15
Yeehaw!! The replies got me excited! Nice to see the gear modding platform is alive and well here. I'm very familiar with Audi platforms but not specifically the rs6. I like the approach of treating it like a c5a6 27t manual - albeit a super max trim level tweaked and tuned by cosworth

I'd love to build a rs6 motor and block with 770s. That would be the ideal dream build - BUT in the interest of gettin it done and keeping it a civil supercar and not dumping tons of money into it - I'm gonna swap it what I got "lying around" lol - ill definitely document my progress here and try my hand at a DIY writeup

ianh755
August 23rd, 2014, 11:30
Fastest/Powerful C5 RS6 might be in the UK
Fastest/Powerful RS6 might be the C6 RS6 in the UK at MRC or MTM.

UK's most powerful "known" C5 RS6 is about 780hp (fly), and the C6 is either Polish company Sportmile's or MTM's both at 1000hp (fly).

Bigglezworth
August 23rd, 2014, 17:18
Yeehaw!! The replies got me excited! Nice to see the gear modding platform is alive and well here. I'm very familiar with Audi platforms but not specifically the rs6. I like the approach of treating it like a c5a6 27t manual - albeit a super max trim level tweaked and tuned by cosworth

I'd love to build a rs6 motor and block with 770s. That would be the ideal dream build - BUT in the interest of gettin it done and keeping it a civil supercar and not dumping tons of money into it - I'm gonna swap it what I got "lying around" lol - ill definitely document my progress here and try my hand at a DIY writeupIt is a huge 4400lb brick ya know..... Get yourself a true sportscar or race car and put your time and money on a build in to something that can enjoy it for something other than a straight line on the highway.

hahnmgh63
August 23rd, 2014, 18:33
4.2 AWN & BBD rods are interchangeable with the RS6 BCY rods I'm pretty much positive. Not sure about some of the other 4.2 engines. And for those that haven't seen this PDF from Kolbenschmidt it is an interesting read on Alusil and the construction of Audi's engine Blocks. http://www.kspg.com/fileadmin/media/Broschueren/Poduktbroschueren/KS_ATAG/ZKG_Niederdruckguss/at_alusil_audi_e.pdf

dxc
August 23rd, 2014, 22:08
Bogglesworth give me your nsx ;)

i shree with with you that it's a pig and isn't a true sports car but that doesn't mean we shouldn't mod it. My transmission is already bad so it's a combo of Maintenence and modding

alrightroad
August 23rd, 2014, 23:47
Casting of S6 and RS6 block same... or the casting on the rods?


Buy my used Loba650's hint hint

But back on subject, I have S6 block and RS6 block apart sitting in the shop, rods are the same between the two. Have the same casting numbers.

And yes you can use the 2.7t rods in the motor.

Mine is getting a set of IE rods that are rifled drilled

ttboost
August 24th, 2014, 02:47
Welcome DXC. Bummer that you hate your money. When you realize how much you will, and are, spending to make this car fast, you will be pissed. And I speak from the heart...MOST everyone who gets one of these has those big dreams, myself included. Do what I did, just spend the money for a manual swap and some waste gate springs and enjoy that. It takes a LOT of engineering and money to make these cars fast. Good luck if you decide to chase this dream...

dxc
August 24th, 2014, 04:38
alrightroad im guessing he means the casting on the rods is the same as the block bell housing is obviously different - which is why s6 people can bolt right up and rs6 people need the adapter plate

ttboost - im not building the block and getting 770s, i wish i had the time and money to go down that rabbit hole but like i said i have all the manual parts ready to go from my b5s4 hoarding and also have stiffer wg and hybrid turbos ready to go from my turbo suppliers overseas. i was just getting acquainted with the forum and seeing how far the platform has been pushed so far. i have a south bend stage 4 clutch with the sachs racing PP and feramic friction material - hope that holds

so basically this subframe drop is going to be turbos, manual conversion, delete sai, delete aux rads, look around and look for general health of seals and timing components, delete DRC. i guess even then the price adds up fast and it like 6k in parts already. yikes

i think the advice bigglesworth gave is very true - its not a sportscar. its a luxury car with a huge TT engine. ive seen and still see b5s4 people make the same mistake. dump 10-20k+ into a build and at the end of the day you have a 4000lb nose heavy understeering pig that is good for a daily driver but has terrible handling characteristics. there is a point of diminishing returns and the optimal balance of performance/price is probably just a chip. ive seen some other members go down the manual swap route - i read up on RAUDI and his hassles.

i have a few things on my side (hopefully). ive helped work on 1 rs6 manual swap already using the adapter plate, ive done s6 and s8 manual swaps, countless b5s4 manual swaps, have a bunch of audi parts at my disposal ... and i benefit from all knowledge/lessons learned of the people that have come before me. oh, and of course you guys can be here to bounce ideas off of ... the real kicker is the tune. hopefully i can get that figured out and eliminate the rev hanging at idle

i mentioned it before but the rs6 is just a c5 like the rest of them. ive parted out and gotten intimate with a lot of a6 over the years and this is just a fancy 27t 6spd a6 ... thats all aluminum with a v8tt engine ;)

alrightroad
August 24th, 2014, 13:37
Thanks, Dave. Glad to see you cranking on this project and looking forward to seeing progress. Where is mr. kitty avatar? :)


alrightroad im guessing he means the casting on the rods is the same as the block bell housing is obviously different - which is why s6 people can bolt right up and rs6 people need the adapter plate

...

ttboost
August 24th, 2014, 14:03
South Bend will likely not hold...for long...My Spec Stage 3+ held fine...making over 575wtq...I seem to recall picking up 60whp going manual, with another 1-2psi.......

dxc
August 24th, 2014, 15:30
The south bend stage 4 is pretty much the same exact clutch as a spec 3+, same Sachs pp, same friction material - I guess the pp is sprayed red instead of blue - maybe blue has more holding power haha

I am excited - I'm not doing this mainly for power gains, moreso to fix the tranny issue and do minor stuff "while I'm in there" - haha famous last words

The only piece missing from my puzzle right now is a .56 6th gear. I think that's a nice mod. Need to try to source one for cheaper than 600

lswing
August 24th, 2014, 17:35
Oh yes, while you've got it apart you could also ceramic coat the exhaust manifolds and DPs...not sure if it's as important since you'll have a bit more breathing room down there with the auto box out.

I'd be tempted to leave the auxiliary radiators. I pulled mine due to them leaking, but now think that extra bit of cooling could be nice on hot days. Nothing proven temp wise, and I would certainly think you get a bit more performance from the IC's without those heat sinks tucked in right behind them.

If you don't know, shokan.com can be a good source for used parts, but not the cheapest, good parts though.

Kgnast
August 24th, 2014, 23:43
Wastegate spring mod? Tell me more please.... Lol.

kruat
August 25th, 2014, 00:57
So not to thread jack or anything, but with a 6th swap, are there any clutch/pressure plate setups that are good for a daily driver? I'd like to do a 6spd, but with my wife driving the RS, I can't put in a heavy duty racing type clutch. I'm also not looking to increase the power much more then it has, but the stock tranny has got to go...

Turbowned
August 25th, 2014, 17:51
It really is sad how expensive it is to make more than say, 550bhp out of these cars. They're perfectly happy to make just around that with light mods, but 600-1000hp is much more frugally attained in other cars. There's a guy in NH (not sure if he's on the forum here) running a twin turbo GM LSx V8 in an RS6; I thought he was crazy but then later found that he bought the car with a blown motor and that the LSx was much easier/cheaper to make power with. I can kinda see why my friend wants to sell his CL55 AMG in favor of a MKIV Toyota Supra. Perhaps I should go back to a Datsun 240Z and swap a twin turbo I6 from a Skyline GT-R into it, as originally planned. At least 550hp out of that engine paired to a 2400lb chassis would be a lot more lively!

Not that I even have anywhere to use 600+hp around here... let alone 450... stupid Boston traffic :nana: