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SA RS6
July 26th, 2014, 22:33
Hey guys just have a quick question, I'm trying to battle the heat here in Texas. Im fixing to have a little money to play with on the car and I'm trying to decide if i should do Water/Meth first or Oil and Trans cooler first. If i have to get a tune to run water/meth then i will just do trans/oil cooler first. just trying to see what everyone thinks on what should get done first. All will come in time just trying to set priorities. thank you in advanced for the responses :addict:

lswing
July 27th, 2014, 00:50
Water meth for around $1,000, lots of options, will help performance more. I noticed a big difference in keeping power when it was 80-90 in Oregon. 100+ degrees down here, sure it helps but just feels so hot. I'm waiting for October to roll around:)

I think the upgrade trans and oil coolers are more for safety of parts, not much higher performance. I looked into this a while back and we estimated $2,000 roughly with labor.

lswing
July 27th, 2014, 00:53
Here's the side mount tank option...personally I'm biased to my custom 2.5 gallon tank in place of the battery.:incar:

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/23781-What-size-water-meth-tank/page2

905084
July 27th, 2014, 02:26
A note on heat....I drove home today....90 degrees....made the climb from 4200 feet to 7500 over the course of 20 minutes, in and out of the boost running 70 -100. A/C/ on. Aux rad delete. Noticed the power starting to go and saw the temp to the high side of H. Not sure if it's the aux rad delete or something else. Guess I could run them side by side to see. Any ideas?

SA RS6
July 27th, 2014, 02:36
Water meth for around $1,000, lots of options, will help performance more. I noticed a big difference in keeping power when it was 80-90 in Oregon. 100+ degrees down here, sure it helps but just feels so hot. I'm waiting for October to roll around:)

I think the upgrade trans and oil coolers are more for safety of parts, not much higher performance. I looked into this a while back and we estimated $2,000 roughly with labor.

for the oil cooler and trans cooler, i wasn't thinking along the lines for gaining anything from it minus being safe. the water meth was more less for performance on hot day. i might just get all three done at the same time, guy i take my car too said 3-400 to install water meth, i just need to sit down and talk about getting trans and oil cooler installed and see if i could get all them done at once. Would i need a tune to run water/meth? would it be ok to run it without a tune for a while?

lswing
July 27th, 2014, 03:40
Where does he plan to drill the injectors in? Most people do both sides of y-pipe, need to remove stuff up front. We already had the car apart so was easier. Mounted the spray adjust box in the fuse box area so it's hidden, but easy access.

I think you'd be fine running low to mid spray, shouldn't make it too rich. I'm tuned on the edge and run full spray through two D05 nozzles, perfect when hot, will bog down when cool, so I adjust.

SA RS6
July 27th, 2014, 03:56
Where does he plan to drill the injectors in? Most people do both sides of y-pipe, need to remove stuff up front. We already had the car apart so was easier. Mounted the spray adjust box in the fuse box area so it's hidden, but easy access.

I think you'd be fine running low to mid spray, shouldn't make it too rich. I'm tuned on the edge and run full spray through two D05 nozzles, perfect when hot, will bog down when cool, so I adjust.

i was going to suggest that way cause when i searched thats how i saw most people had it. and ok good to hear, when i get some time on Monday gonna go chat with him and get a price on all of it at once. i figure its all gonna be apart doing the water meth so im really hoping he can work something out with me. ill report back once i get all the kinks worked out. Oh at lswing what do you think about the Snow Stage 1? will it work? thanks again for all the help i was really hoping you were gonna chime in lol

lswing
July 27th, 2014, 04:24
Went with these guys, few others have, good stuff, basic and good pricing. Thanks, glad to offer some info and feedback. Really like having the setup, power stays in the heat, engine is cooler in general.

http://www.alcohol-injection.com/en/

lswing
July 27th, 2014, 16:41
Couple of pics, super clean install, LED's in tank cover to see level at night...Odyssey PC925 battery mounted vertically in back of meth tank...

1539515396

SA RS6
July 27th, 2014, 18:41
very nice install sir, did it come with two nozzles or did you have to buy the Y separate? what size tank are you running?

lswing
July 27th, 2014, 22:03
very nice install sir, did it come with two nozzles or did you have to buy the Y separate? what size tank are you running?

You can choose to customize a kit when ordering. Stage 2 base kit with controller, then picked two D05 nozzles, the y-splitter, and the 2.5gallon tank with sump level section to not run dry when low and cornering. Honestly a gallon lasts a while, but I like the idea of filling up less, plus I had already gone to the small battery so there was space to be filled. Thanks!

On a hot day, freeway, plenty of fast driving, think I burned a 1/4 gallon that day, about 200 miles.

SA RS6
July 28th, 2014, 14:35
what size nozzles should i run till i get a tune?

lswing
July 28th, 2014, 14:49
what size nozzles should i run till i get a tune?

Personally I would never want to swap nozzles after the install. If a chip of metal comes out of the threading, other stuff, could go into engine.

Just use the two D05's.

You need to run the progressive controller though. Just set it to never get to full spray. Stock boost is around 8-9psi, so set the controller to start at 2psi and max at say 16psi. In theory you'll just be at about half spray at that point as the controller will not open up the flow all the way.

SA RS6
July 28th, 2014, 20:20
ok, what if i go with the Snow kit cause i can get it all for a little cheaper then the DO, if he cant do all three at once i may end up going with DO, but just in case i don't should i run dual 225ml nozzles or dual 375's, they dont have a 315 like DO does.

lswing
July 28th, 2014, 21:57
ok, what if i go with the Snow kit cause i can get it all for a little cheaper then the DO, if he cant do all three at once i may end up going with DO, but just in case i don't should i run dual 225ml nozzles or dual 375's, they dont have a 315 like DO does.

Hmmm, well I'm assuming the 315 is equivalent to the D05 nozzle from DO. I'd go with the two 225's, bit less than two 315's, but should work better until you get tuned. I know that in warm weather, with an aggressive tune, I can use all the spray from the two 315's. And the DO's calculator has that at about the max for a boosted 4.2 V8, but not sure how exact those numbers are. I'm assuming you'll get a progressive controller with the snow kit? Two 375's could certainly cause some bog as they would over spray it seems.

Edit; If you have a good progressive controller consider going 375 on second though. Personally I'd like to be able to max out my water meth in warm weather. Just make sure the controller can keep them from spraying 100%, at least initially. I'd hate to have too much spray, then you'd be forced into a smaller nozzle change down the road.

SA RS6
August 4th, 2014, 03:59
ok i need a little more help, im trying to pick the oil cooler to run, i thought about the Mishimoto 10 row oil cooler, but now im thinking that it may be to small. So what does everyone think? would that be good enough? or should i get something wider, more rows? this is the one i was looking at getting-

http://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMOC-10-Row-Oil-Cooler/dp/B007ZG28LQ

thanks in advanced for all the help!

lswing
August 4th, 2014, 05:17
Is that any better than the stock one? Look at custom pieces, I would never trust an Amazon or EBay piece in my car. A few threads have great details on sizing, max/best, for custom work.

SA RS6
August 4th, 2014, 06:10
It's not a cheap amazon one it's a mishmioto, amazon just happened to have it for the best price. But that's what I was thinking, it seems really small, but I'm having a hard time finding one that's around the same size as the stock one but for oil only. I found one made my setrab but they cost a very pretty penny lol. And I'll try searching again but in the meantime what size should I be looking for?

G2
August 4th, 2014, 06:59
ok i need a little more help, im trying to pick the oil cooler to run, i thought about the Mishimoto 10 row oil cooler, but now im thinking that it may be to small. So what does everyone think? would that be good enough? or should i get something wider, more rows? this is the one i was looking at getting-

http://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMOC-10-Row-Oil-Cooler/dp/B007ZG28LQ

thanks in advanced for all the help!

Why the focus on the oil cooler? Excessive oil temps? Planning track days?

Judging from the pics, it may be smaller than the OE oil cooler. The production dimensions appear to be for the box it comes in.

I'd be concerned about flow. Pressure drop. BTU heat rejection rates (if anyone even publishes that info) for X-chassis size. Personally, wouldn't go with any other than Setrab. Have one on my other car- 25yrs no issues so far. It's huge and use a t-stat control to prevent over-cooling. Which our cars I believe already have.

Better oil will also help reduce oil temps. Noticed 10F drop or so in my other cars.

G2
August 4th, 2014, 07:20
This is always a Hot topic for the summer. Was actually going to bring this up.

Had the worst turbo heat induced soak the other day in my 2+yrs of seat time. Spent too much time in town (busy coffee drive thru), stuck at stop lights, then time to go. Put my foot down to the kick down point in 2nd gear......and waited......and waited...and waited. Couldn't even get past a couple of lazy body on frame types (truck/SUV's). About 3-5 seconds later the power finally decides to show up. Off it goes, but still apparently ingesting lots of hot air. Massive heat soak issues.

Need water spray!

AND after a YEAR trying to get someone at DO to finalize my wholesale account, finally it's done- not a moment too soon. They have a new sales manager, very nice fellah. It's apparent the business is rapidly growing, trying to keep up with demand. A tricky balance, which I understand.

And thanks to Lswing, who's been the front runner on this forum in helping sort the in's and out's.

Couldn't think of a better solution for performance and protection. Time to put an order in!

SA RS6
August 4th, 2014, 12:21
Yea the reason for the focus on the oil cooler is just due to heat, sometimes my oil temps get up to just a hair below 250 and that's just normal driving around sometimes, I just wanna be able to play around or daily drive without having to worry. Just trying to take care of some of the heat soak, that's why I'm also doing water/meth.

SA RS6
August 4th, 2014, 15:35
<tbody>
1-series Setrab STD Oil Cooler


HP range
Part Number
Width (in)
Height (in)
∆P (psi)
btu/hr range


100-150
50-119-7612
8.27
5.75
2.2/2.6
13,000-17,500


160-190
50-125-7612
8.27
7.60
2.1/2.4
17,000-22,000


170-230
50-134-7612
8.27
10.39
1.0/1.5
21,000-27,000


175-275
50-144-7612
8.27
13.53
1.0/1.3
26,000-35,000


300-400
50-150-7612
8.27
15.31
0.9/1.2
29,000-40,000


325-425
50-160-7612
8.27
18.31
0.6/1.1
33,000-45,000


600+
50-172-7612
8.27
22.13
0.8/1.0
40,000-60,000

</tbody>

i was thinking of getting the 50-160-7612, would that be a good one to go for? i think its a 60 row.

SteveKen
August 4th, 2014, 16:28
Yea the reason for the focus on the oil cooler is just due to heat, sometimes my oil temps get up to just a hair below 250 and that's just normal driving around sometimes, I just wanna be able to play around or daily drive without having to worry. Just trying to take care of some of the heat soak, that's why I'm also doing water/meth.

Could you just lower the t-stat/spring in the filter sandwich plate during the times you anticipate the need for more cooling?

SA RS6
August 4th, 2014, 18:08
i didn't know that could be done, another reason i was gonna have him do the oil cooler is because hes going to put a better trans cooler on the car for me, so i figured why not do a better oil cooler too while hes in there.

lswing
August 4th, 2014, 19:24
I was just going to follow these guys, seem to know what they are doing...you could get estimated measurements from the pictures. I think they sent me numbers a few years back, try asking them.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/21927-FMU-s-RS6-Oil-Trans-Cooler-Fitment

lswing
August 4th, 2014, 19:28
This is always a Hot topic for the summer. Was actually going to bring this up.

Had the worst turbo heat induced soak the other day in my 2+yrs of seat time. Spent too much time in town (busy coffee drive thru), stuck at stop lights, then time to go. Put my foot down to the kick down point in 2nd gear......and waited......and waited...and waited. Couldn't even get past a couple of lazy body on frame types (truck/SUV's). About 3-5 seconds later the power finally decides to show up. Off it goes, but still apparently ingesting lots of hot air. Massive heat soak issues.

Need water spray!

AND after a YEAR trying to get someone at DO to finalize my wholesale account, finally it's done- not a moment too soon. They have a new sales manager, very nice fellah. It's apparent the business is rapidly growing, trying to keep up with demand. A tricky balance, which I understand.

And thanks to Lswing, who's been the front runner on this forum in helping sort the in's and out's.

Couldn't think of a better solution for performance and protection. Time to put an order in!

Thanks G2, glad to hear you got on board with DO. The kit has been solid for a few years now, quality and pricing seems good.

I've been getting some heat soak for sure here in TX when it's 100 out. Car registers about 110-120, and just like you mentioned, push the gas and wait a bit, although not as bad as you describe. I'll attribute that to a good w/m spray making the difference.

Hoping to do some more data logging in the next month or so with medium and max spray levels. Might be at the local drag strip, so there will be race gas involved, what a shame.

SA RS6
August 4th, 2014, 20:03
I was just going to follow these guys, seem to know what they are doing...you could get estimated measurements from the pictures. I think they sent me numbers a few years back, try asking them.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/21927-FMU-s-RS6-Oil-Trans-Cooler-Fitment

that is where i got the idea lol. i did ask them he told me that he didnt remember the specs on it, but they could make it for me if i bring the car to them...

G2
August 5th, 2014, 06:48
This is always a Hot topic for the summer. Was actually going to bring this up.

Had the worst turbo heat induced soak the other day in my 2+yrs of seat time. Spent too much time in town (busy coffee drive thru), stuck at stop lights, then time to go. Put my foot down to the kick down point in 2nd gear......and waited......and waited...and waited. Couldn't even get past a couple of lazy body on frame types (truck/SUV's). About 3-5 seconds later the power finally decides to show up. Off it goes, but still apparently ingesting lots of hot air. Massive heat soak issues.

Need water spray!

AND after a YEAR trying to get someone at DO to finalize my wholesale account, finally it's done- not a moment too soon. They have a new sales manager, very nice fellah. It's apparent the business is rapidly growing, trying to keep up with demand. A tricky balance, which I understand.

And thanks to Lswing, who's been the front runner on this forum in helping sort the in's and out's.

Couldn't think of a better solution for performance and protection. Time to put an order in!

4everRS
August 5th, 2014, 13:25
Repost???

SA RS6
August 5th, 2014, 22:35
dont wanna start another thread about something ive asked before so ill do it here, i just stumbled across the fact that older Gallardo rotors are the exact same as ours, so i was wonder if these will work

http://www.girodisc.com/Girodisc-Rear-2pc-Rotors-for-Lamborghini-Gallardo-2004-2008_p_5534.html

would be a costly upgrade to start, but when it comes time to do a full brake job all you gotta do is buy the ring which is 585 for the pair. sorry to side track just wondering

MaxRS6
August 7th, 2014, 18:58
...hes going to put a better trans cooler on the car for me, so i figured why not do a better oil cooler too while hes in there.

What kind of trans cooler are you having installed?

SA RS6
August 7th, 2014, 19:28
What kind of trans cooler are you having installed?

running this one
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70255

was told by my shop that it should be big enough, and they work great they have installed a few on other cars. what do you think?

lswing
August 7th, 2014, 19:44
running this one
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70255

was told by my shop that it should be big enough, and they work great they have installed a few on other cars. what do you think?

Hmmm, I would think it's not much more space than what's already on the car. And the height would block airflow to the radiator.

I remember being a bit suspicious about some info/quotes you posted from that shop earlier. You sure you trust them to add the parts on, work on the car? Just seems a bit off to be recommending such cheap parts. Do they know you already have a trans cooler?

I know it's good to save money, but I'd be looking to get high quality radiators that won't leak and get the job done for years. I found a company a while back that had pre-made one's for around $300 each, size seemed like it would be a good fit, wide and not too tall.

lswing
August 7th, 2014, 19:50
I had looked into adding another trans cooler inline, and mounting it down behind one of the IC's. Figured heat soak would defeat it though, and no reason to mess with the lines. Not the best idea in the long run I thought...

http://www.jegs.com/i/Be-Cool-Radiators/134/96300/10002/-1?parentProductId=893135

MaxRS6
August 7th, 2014, 20:33
I'm interested in pursuing options if helpful. At the moment, I'm thinking about putting a transmission temp gauge into the cluster pod. I've not monitored the temps previously- and the real-time info may help prevent a catastrophic issue.

lswing
August 7th, 2014, 21:06
I'm interested in pursuing options if helpful. At the moment, I'm thinking about putting a transmission temp gauge into the cluster pod. I've not monitored the temps previously- and the real-time info may help prevent a catastrophic issue.

What's wrong with having your laptop right there monitoring through VAGCOM...just keep looking down while driving fast:), what could go wrong?

I did some temp monitoring when trying to troubleshoot the bad temp sensor, another nice feature. Temps were fine on a 75 degree day....do you get those in Texas?

MaxRS6
August 7th, 2014, 21:47
What's wrong with having your laptop right there monitoring through VAGCOM...just keep looking down while driving fast:), what could go wrong?


^ I reckon I could duct tape the notebook to the dash for an Arkansas heads up display. ;0

The gauge will allow me to set a high temp alarm- could be helpful during the track adventures. I think it would provide some mental peace that things are okay with the visual. Oh- and did I mention- I get to play with colors..

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/elite-10-color-transmission-temperature-gauge.aspx

lswing
August 7th, 2014, 21:52
^ I reckon I could duct tape the notebook to the dash for an Arkansas heads up display. ;0

The gauge will allow me to set a high temp alarm- could be helpful during the track adventures. I think it would provide some mental peace that things are okay with the visual. Oh- and did I mention- I get to play with colors..

http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/elite-10-color-transmission-temperature-gauge.aspx

Fancy, me want...

Good idea with the warning for high temp. Please let us know how the wiring in goes.

I thought the Arkansas heads up display was yur buddy with his head out the sunroof...maybe that's Tennessee....

SA RS6
August 8th, 2014, 00:31
so LS, should i just ditch the trans/oil cooler idea for now, and put the money towards Water/Meth and a tune?

MaxRS6
August 8th, 2014, 02:12
^That is where I would put the $ for the best bang. Test and make sure the OEM stuff is working properly. A tune will stress and highlight the weak links.

SA RS6
August 8th, 2014, 05:13
^That is where I would put the $ for the best bang. Test and make sure the OEM stuff is working properly. A tune will stress and highlight the weak links.

Sounds like a plan then, thanks for all the help guys. One last question will those rotors work on our car from that link I posted?

G2
August 27th, 2014, 06:02
A note on heat....I drove home today....90 degrees....made the climb from 4200 feet to 7500 over the course of 20 minutes, in and out of the boost running 70 -100. A/C/ on. Aux rad delete. Noticed the power starting to go and saw the temp to the high side of H. Not sure if it's the aux rad delete or something else. Guess I could run them side by side to see. Any ideas?

Curious on the follow up. Any findings or further issues?

905084
August 27th, 2014, 13:36
Curious on the follow up. Any findings or further issues?

Haven't had a problem since. I did put the Eurocharged tune on Thing 2 and WOW what a difference. On Thing 3 during the track day had the same thing happen after running hard for 7-8 laps. Temp gets high and the power drops. Had to cool her for a lap then go back at it. I'm guessing that's just the nature of the beast.

G2
August 28th, 2014, 05:42
Almost sounds like the t-stat isn't properly working. My car just started running borderline hot. Verified via a scanner. Fan is kicking on a bit soon. Gauge reads as it did before, but now 15F hotter.
Same issue on #2 (customer car). Gauge also reads normal, however. Assumed to not have cooling issues..... has all 3 rads.

I don't buy into "nature of the beast" idea. I think it's indicative of root issues that need tending. I have A and B car that seems to back this up. However, taking it a step further with track time isn't practical-- at least for now. I plan to track my car hopefully later this year.

Also liking the Eurocharge tune (vs Revo tune on my car). Thinking I may need to consider changing. Nice smooth power.

SA RS6
August 28th, 2014, 15:30
Well things just keep getting better, the aux fan that is supposed to come on with A/C took a dump, shop said the fan and fan control are shot, so my question is can I put a normal electric fan on there like a flex-a-lite fan or something to that effect. Because I really don't wanna pay 750 bucks for a fan and controller unless I really have to. If putting a normal fan on there is a bad idea I'll just go with oem stuff but wanted to run it by everyone first before doing anything.

SteveKen
August 28th, 2014, 15:38
Which fan? the large one or the smaller one?

The large one has the controller built into the connector mounted to the lock carrier.

The smaller one has the controller mounted remotely under the driver's side frame rail.

Is there any back story to what caused all this? The harness for all this stuff could be the issue.

The HVAC head unit could also be the cause. VAG-COM should be throwing faults if this is the issue.

SA RS6
August 28th, 2014, 16:06
It's the smaller one, and not much of a story, noticed the other day ac wasn't blowing cold when I wasn't driving, opened the good and saw smaller fan wasn't going, took it to the shop and he called me said fan and controller are done. So we're trying to think of options other then paying so much for a fan and controller.

marklar182
August 28th, 2014, 16:36
Price is not so bad.....

N/M

SA RS6
August 28th, 2014, 16:48
That still hurts a little when I look at it, just to see that an electric fan cost 3 something lol.

905084
August 28th, 2014, 20:01
Fan and controller and not the green t-stat switch?

SA RS6
August 29th, 2014, 02:16
Fan and controller and not the green t-stat switch?

would that cause both of them to seem as if they weren't working? and is that a easy part to get to?

905084
August 29th, 2014, 03:07
My son's A6 4.2 ran hot...A/C ran hot....replaced this switch and all was well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDI-VW-Coolant-Temperature-Sensor-Water-Temp-Switch-/370844996394?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item565815932a&vxp=mtr

Why would any mechanic assume that the controller AND the fan are bad? In my business, dual failure items are extremely rare. I would guess that the sender that told the controller to tell the fan to turn on failed. The switch is on the left aft bank. Not sure how to get to it on the RS as my engine was out when I did mine. The A6 wasn't bad.

Start with the simple stuff....and work your way up to "remove engine" BTW...this is a very common fault in a 4.2

SA RS6
August 29th, 2014, 04:53
Ok would love to start there, can anyone tell me how to swap it out? Is it easy to get to?

P1054
August 29th, 2014, 07:17
There are a couple of threads about this I believe, search for "Coolant temp sensor".. I switched out mine, it's not difficult. It's made much easier if you remove the airbox. It can be done with the airbox in (I did it), but I would srecimmend just removing it as it saves a lot of headache. Shouldn't take more than a half hour or so.

One thing to note, when my was going out the coolant temp gauge in the instrument cluster started to intermittently not work.. Has this happened with your car?

lswing
August 29th, 2014, 14:24
Ok would love to start there, can anyone tell me how to swap it out? Is it easy to get to?

Just a hunch, but I would be wary of your mechanic. You've posted some questionable estimates and advice in the past from the same person I believe. They might know Audi's, but from what I've heard I wouldn't want them wrenching on the RS6. Again, just an interpretation, and I'm no mechanic, but seems a bit off to me...

SA RS6
August 29th, 2014, 15:22
Just a hunch, but I would be wary of your mechanic. You've posted some questionable estimates and advice in the past from the same person I believe. They might know Audi's, but from what I've heard I wouldn't want them wrenching on the RS6. Again, just an interpretation, and I'm no mechanic, but seems a bit off to me...

yea I know what you mean, that's why I posted up here before I take the leap. If it's just a simple thermo then I may question taking it to him for problem, maybe just mods.

lswing
August 29th, 2014, 15:47
yea I know what you mean, that's why I posted up here before I take the leap. If it's just a simple thermo then I may question taking it to him for problem, maybe just mods.

Agreed. Have you been able to VCDS scan it yet? Would help a ton...

SA RS6
August 29th, 2014, 20:50
i don't have vag-com, need to invest in it though. it would help a ton getting help, and know whats wrong before i take it somewhere.

905084
August 29th, 2014, 20:57
i don't have vag-com, need to invest in it though. it would help a ton getting help, and know whats wrong before i take it somewhere.

VCDS Lite (free) will help a ton. Also, you can get a code scanner online for less than $50. I've got one of those in each of my cars. Keeps the wife and kid from panicking.

SA RS6
August 30th, 2014, 02:03
I don't have a cable either, forgot to invest in one when I got the car. I do need to do that ASAP.

905084
August 30th, 2014, 23:47
I used this to troubleshoot my bad MAF. It isn't great, but it isn't $350 either.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-VAG-409-1-OBD2-USB-Auto-Diagnostics-Scanner-VCDS-Software-for-VW-Audi-/281363326901?hash=item41828fa7b5&item=281363326901&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr

SA RS6
August 31st, 2014, 01:26
Did it work good? Or can you tell it's a knock off? I'm going to get a real one soon, but if this works and can hold me over for a little I'll take it for now just to solve this issue.

905084
August 31st, 2014, 01:54
It told me MAF sensor 1 was different than MAF 2.....for $10 what do you expect?

SA RS6
August 31st, 2014, 03:02
i don't expect very much for 10 bucks, but if it will help it will be a good 10 bucks spent.

lswing
August 31st, 2014, 03:21
You could also look at the wireless Bluetooth obd2 readers, cheap ones seem to work fine for basic codes, plus you get some extra features.

Spcl Sauce
September 5th, 2014, 04:32
I switched from snow performance to Aquamist and still have the old snow performance kit if anyone wants it.Just pm me.