Porsche Cayenne brakes

[Turbowned]

Gentlemen,

My search yields no results. I've seen lots of folks retrofit early Porsche Cayenne Brembos (6pot front, 4pot rear) to their various VW/Audi vehicles, but nothing related to an RS6. Makes sense as we already have 8pots up front, but those itty bitty single pots in the back. Since I have a set of four Cayenne calipers lying around, I was toying with the idea of installing the rears at the very least, assuming I don't need to change rotors... Any input?

[Dmb408]

Which size cayenne calipers (there are three on 995s if i remember)...i only know of someone doing cayenne setup on a heavily modified b5 s4.

[alrightroad]

I think the Cayenne rears require special mojo for parking brake cables, no? i.e., no cable connectors at all (!).

[G2]

I think the Cayenne rears require special mojo for parking brake cables, no? i.e., no cable connectors at all (!).

I think that's why these cars have single pot slider rear calipers. Solves the parking brake issue. I bet the Porsche has drum parking brakes being it's a "truck" and using fixed opposed piston cow-pliers :stick:

[v8a6]

Lots of the C5 A6 4.2 and S6 guys, such as myself, have done the Brembos up front. I went with the 18z, which require custom 350mm JHM rotors to make them work.

Up front, the RS6 stock calipers are superior, so that is not something you would want to change. JHM has lightweight rotors for the front and rear, that make a big difference in rotating weight.

No one that I know of have used the Cayenne/Touareg Brembos on the rear. I had a chance to pickup a set for a $150 bucks, and I passed because there is no easy way to make them work that I know of.

I doubt you would notice an improvement in performance with a rear brake caliper swap. There is probably more chance of messing up the front/rear balance then improving overall braking by swapping to a rear caliper with more pistons. If you are looking for a braking upgrade, maybe try performance pads.

Now, in the looks department, I agree, the stock rears dont look impressive at all.

These are mine

15391
15392
15393

[hahnmgh63]

All Porsche of recent years, 1999-on and 944 Turbos & 911 Turbos use rear drum inside the Rotor hat parking brakes. Not a lot more complicated but more expensive of a proposition than ours which is really a standard Audi rear caliper but with a larger rotor. Actually, my 1974 911S uses and inside the rotor parking brake. The RS6 is even more front end heavy than a Cayenne so the rear brake is even less important on the RS6. Also as mentioned, there are multiple front & rear caliper/rotor combinations on the Cayenne's. My 2006 Cayenne Turbo S uses a larger 6 pot front caliper than the Regular Turbo and a larger 2 piece 380mm front rotor whereas the regular Turbo back then used a 350mm front rotor. Turbo S uses a 356mm rear rotor, regular Turbo a 330mm rear rotor. So the Regular Turbos 330mm rear rotor is close to the RS6 335mm rear rotor but you still have the offsets and parking brakes to deal with.

[alrightroad]

Good info.

I think your Turbo S front calipers are called G60's?

[hahnmgh63]

Not sure about the G60 designation, I thought G60's were the old Audi front caliper designations back on the 200 & UrS4? Besides the Porsche part numbers I know the Turbo S front 6 pot calipers are known as the 19z calipers and the regular Turbos 6 pots were the 18z?

[alrightroad]

Sorry, was the R50 I was thinking about. Shown here next to a few others. The red on top is 18Z and the grey back, right 17Z. Not sure what the grey caliper immediately to right is.

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff105/EL_3grab/dsc02371im.png

[Turbowned]

Ahh, so not worth bothering with, then. I have the 18z calipers. Very well, I'll sell them to some VW kid for $4-500. That'll help fund my JHM rotor purchase.

[v8a6]

Ahh, so not worth bothering with, then. I have the 18z calipers. Very well, I'll sell them to some VW kid for $4-500. That'll help fund my JHM rotor purchase.

Definitely the way to go

[nistah]

Ahh, so not worth bothering with, then. I have the 18z calipers. Very well, I'll sell them to some VW kid for $4-500. That'll help fund my JHM rotor purchase.
I suspect I currently have a set of JHM rotors on my front wheels (slotted w/ black center) which need replaced...are the JHM's considered superior to the cross drilled OEM's or just cheaper?

[v8a6]

I suspect I currently have a set of JHM rotors on my front wheels (slotted w/ black center) which need replaced...are the JHM's considered superior to the cross drilled OEM's or just cheaper?

JHMs are superior to stock...

Stock vs. JHM
-Rotor Weight: Stock = 27.5lbs(each), JHM = 21lbs(each) - 24% LIGHTER, 6.5lbs less each
-Rotor Cooling Air-gap: Stock = 13mm(.512"), JHM = 18.5mm(.728") - LARGER for better cooling
-Rotor Cooling Center Fin Design: Stock = Straight Fin, JHM = Airfoil - MORE EFFICIENT for better cooling
-Rotor OD: Stock = 365mm(14.4"), JHM = 365mm(14.4") - SAME
-Rotor Thickness: Stock = 34mm(1.34"), JHM = 34mm(.1.34") - SAME
-Bolt pattern: - SAME (fits like an OEM rotor would)

INCLUDES: 2 - JHM 2-piece Lightweight Front Rotors. (Each rotor weighs 6.5lbs less than stock for a total of 13lbs weight savings.) 24% lighter!

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/front-rotorspair-jhm-piece-lightweight-for-c5-rs6-p-485.html

Plus, you should be able to purchase just the rotors for your replacements, and reuse the hats. It will save you even more money over OEM.

[hahnmgh63]

I haven't verified all of JHM's claims but the stock rotors (New) are 26lbs each. I would like to weigh the JHM's to see if they are really 21lbs. Since the JHM's have a larger air gap they are most likely lighter but also have less metal in the rotor for heat sink purposes. I don't think you are going to save much if any weight in the rotor hat over the OEM one (Aluminum) so saving it in the Rotor may or may not be the best way to go unless you are scalloping them like the new RS5 or else go Carbon Ceramic.
P.S. One member on here using them was having problems with vibrations and you will find a few complaints over on the B7 RS4 forums (Quattroworld & 6 speed) too. I'm a believer in saving unsprung weight but I don't think the Rotor is the place to do it unless it is a poor design, and the same SHW rotor design that our car is using was used on the last 911 Cup car without the Carbon Ceramic option. Now if you want to save unsprung weight go with some Forged wheels. Here is one of many you will find about the JHM rotors http://forums.quattroworld.com/rs4b7/msgs/83350.phtml http://forums.quattroworld.com/rs4b7/msgs/91840.phtml

[v8a6]

I have the JHM rotors on my car, and there are no vibrations.

Nistah, are they causing vibrations on your car? If not, I don't see why you wouldnt get the same again. Save money and get something much lighter than OEM. I think youll pay about half of the JHM complete rotor price since you already have the hats. If you are happy with the current JHM rotors, I would think replacing them with another set would be a no brainer.

I have never found JHM to be dishonest with their claims. But if Nistah has a calibrated scale he could always weigh one to verify the weight.

I'm super happy with the JHMs, myself. I'm actually trying to talk them into making a set for my new C6 S6. The stock 385mm rotors are like boat anchors on the car, so their should be a TON of weight to save on that application.

Good luck whatever you choose!

[nistah]

They work OK for being 4 years old some pulsating when trying to stop from high speed. Have not tried to have them turned & not sure if that would work? I suspect mine are the older version with stainless hats & I notice on the website that the ewer hats are black color...not sure if my older hats will interchange with the newer rotors design. I did see that the hats & rotors are $795 a set which is roughly $200 more than OEM so it would depend if I could still reuse my existing hats & how much the rings only option would cost...

[lswing]

JHMs are superior to stock...

Stock vs. JHM
-Rotor Weight: Stock = 27.5lbs(each), JHM = 21lbs(each) - 24% LIGHTER, 6.5lbs less each
-Rotor Cooling Air-gap: Stock = 13mm(.512"), JHM = 18.5mm(.728") - LARGER for better cooling
-Rotor Cooling Center Fin Design: Stock = Straight Fin, JHM = Airfoil - MORE EFFICIENT for better cooling
-Rotor OD: Stock = 365mm(14.4"), JHM = 365mm(14.4") - SAME
-Rotor Thickness: Stock = 34mm(1.34"), JHM = 34mm(.1.34") - SAME
-Bolt pattern: - SAME (fits like an OEM rotor would)

INCLUDES: 2 - JHM 2-piece Lightweight Front Rotors. (Each rotor weighs 6.5lbs less than stock for a total of 13lbs weight savings.) 24% lighter!

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/front-rotorspair-jhm-piece-lightweight-for-c5-rs6-p-485.html

Plus, you should be able to purchase just the rotors for your replacements, and reuse the hats. It will save you even more money over OEM.

I would never say something is superior based off of factory numbers. They do look good, and I've considered the JHM's for my next set. There is some worry the lighter rotor won't hold up quite as well, a few rumors here and there, but nobody recently has said they've warped under heavy use. Seems to be a good product though, and nice you can replace just rotors and keep center caps with JHM. Figure your car is pushing less weight and power onto them also being an A6/S6 4.2 I think?

[lswing]

They work OK for being 4 years old some pulsating when trying to stop from high speed. Have not tried to have them turned & not sure if that would work? I suspect mine are the older version with stainless hats & I notice on the website that the ewer hats are black color...not sure if my older hats will interchange with the newer rotors design. I did see that the hats & rotors are $795 a set which is roughly $200 more than OEM so it would depend if I could still reuse my existing hats & how much the rings only option would cost...

That pulsating under high speed braking could be a bushing, or bushings. I had that a few years back, replaced front lower control arms and bushings, solid.

[nistah]

That pulsating under high speed braking could be a bushing, or bushings. I had that a few years back, replaced front lower control arms and bushings, solid. Don't think it's the control arms or bushings because I just did the complete control arm set less than 3months ago

[lswing]

Don't think it's the control arms or bushings because I just did the complete control arm set less than 3months ago

Was it done right? Just kidding:)

Get those rotors resurfaced if there is enough left. Resurfaced mine about two years ago, 8k later still smooth. Although not much left is my guess....