Replacement Parts - Need Help/Advice

[petzl21]

OK, so I have been searching the forum for these, but mainly find info on Brakes. This is my DD (except for winter) and I am looking to keep her close to stock as can be. I am in CT, so roads up here sux, and generally do up in New England. Here is what I am looking to do, and looking for help on.

Front Control Arms:
Stock replacement vs. Aftermarket (what company makes a good kit for our cars that is as good or better than stock for similar $$$). I have not found other options other than going to the dealer. Rec doing upper and lower contol arms all at once? My upper bushings are starting to crack and make noise.

Rear Control Arms:
Would follow whatever I did for the front

DRC:
Would do the swap to the Koni yellow sport like 4.2Crew did in his write up. Audi swapped full system back in 2009 under recall. Working as it should, just looking forward to do it before it fails again.

CV's:
I have a torn CV boot on Drivers front and looks to have been that way for a bit, as grease is everwhere. Dealer part, or aftermarket? Replace whole CV, or just get the boot? (I know in previous vehicles, getting a whole new CV was double what was charged for just the boot, which seems worth it to me if thats the case). What says you...

Brake Rotors:
Stock replacements vs. JHMotorsports vs. any other good options (how has the JHMotorsports rotors held up compared to stock rotors? They look thinner so that worries me a bit)

Brake pads:
Stock vs. yellow's vs. Hawk (ceramic or sport) What works well for normal every day driving, with the occasional quick/hard stops

Tires:
Currently have Michelin PS3, with better than half life left. want to stay with an 18 inch rim, and have the sidewall to help with the bumps/cracks in the roads.

Interior parts:
Just go to the dealer for these, or find someone parting one out. PO must have had a set of daggers for nails. Nav buttons and surrounding is all gouged up bad, same goes for rear ash trays. don’t know how, but they need to be replaced as they look awful. Also need a new center console flip thingy! not sure if it comes as one part, or if you can just get a new lid.

Speakers:
Sounds like some of the speakers are on their way out, or have already left. What are some good aftermarket plug and play options. Also, same for the sub in the trunk. what have folks used?

Radio:
So not a fan of the factory setup, and want an all in one gps/bluetooth setup. Thats more $$$ than i want to spend right now, so looking for a simple option to be able to plug my iphone5 into the stereo and charge it all at once. I have sirius on my phone that i would like to be able to utilize thru the current stock stereo.

Antenna reception:
Is there a common problem that the radio receptions stinks in these cars, or some connectiong that reguarly goes bad? I get station reception, but lose it 2x as fast as in my Chevy 2500. May not be as much of an issue if i can get my iphone5 plugged into the radio quick!

Well that’s all I can think of right now. IF any of these have been covered in good detail in another thread, don’t flame me too much for the search feature, as I did and didn’t find what I was looking for so I may have missed it (in which case a link would be much appreciated!)

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[ben916]

OK, so I have been searching the forum for these, but mainly find info on Brakes. This is my DD (except for winter) and I am looking to keep her close to stock as can be. I am in CT, so roads up here sux, and generally do up in New England. Here is what I am looking to do, and looking for help on.

Front Suspension replacement:
KWv3 = no budget
Koni Yellow = budget

Hotchkis F/R = done

Rear Suspension:
same as above

DRC:
Pull it out and save it in a box as someone on this board will eventually want it.

CV's:
Raxles = replace the entire shaft as it is cheaper/time-saving than just replacing the boot.

Brake Rotors:
Stock and freeze them

Brake pads:
Hawk

Tires:
Michelin PSS when the PS3 are toast.

Interior parts:
RNS-E from Zawa or whoever else has one

Speakers:
no clue on this one.
As the great Audi5000csqt once wrote - "these things have stereos???!!" -> meaning you should be concerned with how fast you are going versus the tunes that are playing.

Radio:
RNS-E = still Audi part number but can have sat radio and Bluetooth with A2DN (or whatever it is)

Antenna reception:
not sure on this one

Exhaust:
Milltek



fixed for ya

[petzl21]

Thanks ben916.

For the suspension, i was planning on Koni yellow's. More looking for input/feedback on the control arms replacments (stock vs other full kit options). Where to get them other than Dealer?
On the Hawks, the ceramic, or the street's? Not looking for a race pad. which ones? Best place to get them from
CV's get them from dealer, or an aftermarket company (any good ones)?

[bakes]

i have recently put on hawk ceramics with fronzen rotors (only the front for now). I feel like I've lost a bit of stopping power but also significantly solved the brake dust issue (was my main factor for going ceramic). Stopping power is still fine for day to day but not as grippy as factory pads.

[ben916]

Thanks ben916.

For the suspension, i was planning on Koni yellow's. More looking for input/feedback on the control arms replacments (stock vs other full kit options). Where to get them other than Dealer?
On the Hawks, the ceramic, or the street's? Not looking for a race pad. which ones? Best place to get them from
CV's get them from dealer, or an aftermarket company (any good ones)?

Control arms, I seem to remember Feibo or something like that, there is an entire kit for $600 or something like that. Depends on what you are doing but the dealer prices are uber inflated for the same parts.
Hawk streets
Raxles for the entire axle, you are going to pay more for the same work versus replacing the entire axle...

[SteveKen]

Control arms are only required on the front. Lemforder is supposedly the OEM manufacturer and the best option out there.

You can keep the aluminum components and replace the bushings if they are the only parts that are bad. I think that the aftermarket front adjustable upper control arms are all essentially the same in quality and function (PureMS/Stern, 034, ECS, etc.).

The rear control arm bushings can also be replaced. The only rear links that I do not think are serviceable are called tie rods.

[DHall1]

You should not need all the control arms.

Replace the upper inner bushings and call it good. At your mileage the other stuff is good.

Koni yellows or H@R sport coilover kit (1100)

Ben has everything else covered

[petzl21]

Thanks for the input everyone!

[hahnmgh63]

On the control arms. Stay away from Febi / Bilstein. Go with Lemforder or Meyle HD.

[petzl21]

Replace the upper inner bushings and call it good. At your mileage the other stuff is good.


Best place to get just the bushings the dealer? Any tip's or tricks to getting them outta the control arms?

[Dmb408]

The dealer did my upper inner recently (just like Dave said) when they did a drc strut. They gouged me on the part price of the strut but the labor and bushings prices were all fair.

[petzl21]

So i was thinking of just doing the uppers, as its easier than replacing bushings (for me to do in garage as i have no press). Then i came across this whole kit from MeyleHD. It list's the A6 C5 4.2L, but not the RS6. Is this the correct kit for our cars? Its a 12 piece kit for $615
http://www.europaparts.com/control-arm-kit-b5-c5-12-piece-4b3498510cmy-meyle.html

I also found this one that says for the RS6, but is only an 8 piece kit for $755.
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-control-arm-kit-front-rs6-meyle-lemforder-rs6cakit


Is the one from Europaparts a much better deal (as long as its the correct parts. Still trying to become familiar with what parts are interchangable from the A6 4.2l.
Thanks for putting up with me!

[Bigglezworth]

C5 A6, S6, & RS6's are all the same from what I can discern. Th A6 might have a slightly softer bushing stiffness than the S6/RS6, but they will certainly all bolt up. The only changes suspension RS6 wise were dampers and sways from what I understand.

[DHall1]

I would still just order the upper inner audi bushes and let any local shop press them in.

100 bucks and done. I like leaving good RS6 sh#t alone and replacing only worn pieces

[petzl21]

I would still just order the upper inner audi bushes and let any local shop press them in.

100 bucks and done. I like leaving good RS6 sh#t alone and replacing only worn pieces


Understand, but its clanking (which bushings would/should take car of) but going thru the maint records (about 2inches thick of recipts) i dont see any sign that they have been replaced. I figure if i can get a good deal on that above linked kit (12 piece kit from meyle for a good price) why not replace everything and get it nice and tight again. Its not slopy, but i am sure with some parts having 87k on them, they have to be worn a bit, maybe not near failure yet though.

So, is this the correct kit for the RS6, even though it doesnt list the RS6?
http://www.europaparts.com/control-arm-kit-b5-c5-12-piece-4b3498510cmy-meyle.html

[SteveKen]

If the outer joints in your upper control arms are shot, boots torn, etc. then you need to replace them.

I wouldn't' trust the compatibility of the europaparts kit since I'm almost certain that the forward front lower control arms are exclusive to the widebody C5 cars and nothing else. Maybe call or email them and verify this?

[petzl21]

If the outer joints in your upper control arms are shot, boots torn, etc. then you need to replace them.

I wouldn't' trust the compatibility of the europaparts kit since I'm almost certain that the forward front lower control arms are exclusive to the widebody C5 cars and nothing else. Maybe call or email them and verify this?

I will call and verify, but wanted to check on here first, as you never know who you get on the other end. It says it works for the C5 A6 4.2L, so isnt that the same as the RS6? Or was only the RS6 a widebody C5?

[SteveKen]

C5 a6 4.2, c5 s6 & c5 rs6

[hahnmgh63]

The kit just needs to fit C5 facelift cars which is 2002~2004 models. The difference is the facelift cars have an Aluminum upright and the pre-facelift cars have a steel upright.

[905084]

Just trying to finish the suspension myself. I ordered the parts separately because I wanted the adjustable upper control arms. I wanted them adjustable because I went with the ST adjustable coilovers. I didn't want to spend a fortune as I'm already into Thing 3 for more than I wanted. Good thread for all the things that need to be done to an RS!

[repda503]

I've had to change my CV boot twice in the past year and already seeing grease on my wheels again. My car is lowered slightly on PSS9's and I do feel some clicking and vibration at full lock. I have adjustable upper control arms. Mechanic told me its unavoidable with my ride height. I want to go with raxles but will they prevent the cv boots from tearing again?

[MaxRS6]

Go with Raxles. They have held up much mo better than OEM for me. My car is lowered.

[petzl21]

So, is this the correct kit for the RS6, even though it doesnt list the RS6?
http://www.europaparts.com/control-arm-kit-b5-c5-12-piece-4b3498510cmy-meyle.html

OK, so that linked kit is not the right kit for the RS6. Spoke with Daniel at europaparts and this is what you need to get for the RS6:

But this kit but you cant use the lower straight arms (ones struts connect to), but still cheaper to get the whole kit and sell these yourself and recoup ~$160-$200 from purchase price.
http://www.europaparts.com/control-arm-kit-b5-c5-12-piece-8d0498510my-meyle.html

Then you need to add on 2 of these lower straight arms:
http://www.europaparts.com/control-arm-4b3407151d.html

So total price is $795 (less what ever you can sell the wrong lower straight arms for). I thinks thats not a bad deal at all for almost everything new up front. Think i am going to get the kit, and hold off till after winter and get the Kono's too and do everything at once and get the DRC outta there.

Also, I have been talking to a few people and they are not familiar with Meyle (which the above whole kit is made up of. Not sure if they are a smaller company, or not that well known or these people are in the only put OE parts on the car group). In everyones experience here, how do these ride/hold up compared to stock? Similar ride and longevaty, or better than stock? What would be a next level up from these (more $$$ i would assume). Want to get the most bang for my buck and if these are as good/better than OE, its not that bad of a deal.

Thanks!

[DHall1]

Raxles on both my lowered RS6s

Done


Go with Raxles. They have held up much mo better than OEM for me. My car is lowered.

[petzl21]

I just email the folks over at Raxles to get a quote on CV's for the RS6. I need the drivers front, but wanted a quote on fronts and backs to compare.

[Other_Erik]

Here's the correct kit all-in-one, no need to try selling anything off.
http://www.europaparts.com/control-arm-kit-s6-rs6-c5-12-piece-4b3498510dmy-meyle.html
Couple that with a pair of 4D0422821A (Inner tie rod ends) and your control arm kit is truly complete :)
If all you care about is the cost, Lemforder is europa's next-level-up, piece together a kit and it'd run about twice the cost but with no appreciable uptick in quality/longevity. I've used Meyle components in previous vehicles and been more than happy with the results.

O_E

[DHall1]

Imho

Leave rear cv alone.


I just email the folks over at Raxles to get a quote on CV's for the RS6. I need the drivers front, but wanted a quote on fronts and backs to compare.

[petzl21]

Thanks O.E. for that kit. Funny, they said they didnt have a kit for it. Saves the hassle of selling off the other control arms. If no real enhancement, i will go with the Meyle's then for a good price!

Dhall1, got it, leave rear CVs alone! just do the fronts. If i am doing one, is it best to just do both fronts, and keep the pass side as a spare, or wait till something goes on it? I am going to be doing control arms, so everything will be out of the way already.

[DHall1]

Yes do both front cv

[Bigglezworth]

Makes me wonder what the difference is between the 151D & 151K controls arms other than the $140.00/pr

http://www.europaparts.com/control-arm-kit-s6-rs6-c5-12-piece-4b3498510dmy-meyle.html

http://www.europaparts.com/control-arm-kit-b5-c5-12-piece-4b3498510cmy-meyle.html

[petzl21]

So got the quote from Raxles, not to bad. $200 per side. I'll be ordering them up!

[G2]

petzl21, PM sent

[G2]

Re: control arm upper bushings

I've done a number of control arm replacements on various Audi's. If having the work professionally done, it doesn't usually add up just replacing the bushes. The outter tie rods are normally well worn. And will likely need replacement in the near future. For the DIY'er doing the work twice may be a great excuse to have more fun in the garage with an Adult Libation keeping watch.

Someone mentioned not liking Febi/Bilstein. I have used Febi and like the quality a lot, but it's hard to find a complete set. The castings are very nice, if not the best (those Germans). TRW and Lemforder are OE suspension part suppliers, however.

Meyle makes a nice kit and recently put one on a B6 S4. Great value, but not as nicely made. Keep in mind they are made in Turkey, not Germany. Great thing about Meyle is they focus on making beefy tie rod ends and uprating the bushing durometers for better handling (and hopefully longevity). Meyle also sources from China on certain items. But the quality control seems quite good.

I want to say the RS6 kit is specific (may be the bushes as someone pointed out: personally the stock front lower rear bushes are WAY too soft for my liking-- lack of toe control). Anyway, I'd have to rehash this with my sales rep to confirm. The pricing is excellent. The last kit I got included the steering tie rods and sway bar drop links with all the hardware.

I'm about due for a set of arms. Pretty sure I could finagle a "Meyle Group Buy" with several or more sets. At least it would be the correct kit.

Thoughts?

[petzl21]

Just ordered up a set of the Koni Yellows (Front: 82-2516sport, Rear: 82-2526sport) from tire rack. Came to $596 shipped to my door for all four. That is the cheapest that i have found (i guess they have a sale on Koni's going on thru the end of August). Also have a new set of front CV's coming from Raxels. Just have to order the front control arm kit now and she will be like new again. I cant wait to get rid of that clunking in the suspension.

So, now that i am ripping the DRC out, will i really need to get a sway bar, as the DRC helped with the sway control?

[Other_Erik]

Just ordered up a set of the Koni Yellows (Front: 82-2516sport, Rear: 82-2526sport) from tire rack. Came to $596 shipped to my door for all four. That is the cheapest that i have found (i guess they have a sale on Koni's going on thru the end of August). Also have a new set of front CV's coming from Raxels. Just have to order the front control arm kit now and she will be like new again. I cant wait to get rid of that clunking in the suspension.

So, now that i am ripping the DRC out, will i really need to get a sway bar, as the DRC helped with the sway control?

When you put in the order with TireRack, should've added the Hotchkis F&R Sways to that order. Highly recommend going that route, as the stock sways, while beefier than what you'd find on comparable B5's, are not as beefy as one would hope for on a 4400lb autobahn rocketsled...

Sounds like you're doing quite the overhaul! Would've been nice to get some slalom/grip pad before and after numbers so you can say "_THIS_ is why I spent $X,000 and ## hours wrenching!"

[lswing]

Just ordered up a set of the Koni Yellows (Front: 82-2516sport, Rear: 82-2526sport) from tire rack. Came to $596 shipped to my door for all four. That is the cheapest that i have found (i guess they have a sale on Koni's going on thru the end of August). Also have a new set of front CV's coming from Raxels. Just have to order the front control arm kit now and she will be like new again. I cant wait to get rid of that clunking in the suspension.

So, now that i am ripping the DRC out, will i really need to get a sway bar, as the DRC helped with the sway control?

Very nice. I ran the Yellows for about a year with the stock sway bars, and only noticed roll when cornering hard or on big sweepers, not much different than DRC. Ordered the Hotchkis and can't believe I waited so long, really nice improvement. You could just run the Koni's for a while, get familiar with the ride, then put the upgraded sways on, really nice reduction in body roll and stability.

The theory of the DRC loading the weighted corner is really appealing, and I felt that some of that effect, but I always questioned how well my DRC worked.

[petzl21]

I think i will just stick with the stock setup for a bit and see how it rides. It will give me a good idea if the DRC was even really working as i feel if i corner hard i get a good amt of body roll right now. Also at low speeds i get a heck of a clunking out of the front passenger side. I am sure all the front end work will take care of that.

Later down the road i will put the Hotchkis kit on and can gauge the improvement.

[lswing]

I think i will just stick with the stock setup for a bit and see how it rides. It will give me a good idea if the DRC was even really working as i feel if i corner hard i get a good amt of body roll right now. Also at low speeds i get a heck of a clunking out of the front passenger side. I am sure all the front end work will take care of that.

Later down the road i will put the Hotchkis kit on and can gauge the improvement.

Nice, my DRC was clunky around town, and scary as hell bouncy above 70 on anything not flat. I setup my koni's full soft, and it's still a firm ride, way better than what I had and very predictable. Maybe a bit soft up front when you really get on it, but most of my driving is "normal", and it's a nice firm setup. I think you've found seen the thread that 4.2crew started with lots of details. Someone posted a thread a few weeks back after install, running a few clicks from soft. Lowest rung/spring perch on the back set for even height, front height is set, and very good.

[lswing]

Here's how I sit now, settled a touch in the back, and some of this is perspective, maybe a 1/3 inch lower, but that might level out with me in the front seat...15440

[petzl21]

Nice, my DRC was clunky around town, and scary as hell bouncy above 70 on anything not flat. I setup my koni's full soft, and it's still a firm ride, way better than what I had and very predictable. Maybe a bit soft up front when you really get on it, but most of my driving is "normal", and it's a nice firm setup. I think you've found seen the thread that 4.2crew started with lots of details. Someone posted a thread a few weeks back after install, running a few clicks from soft. Lowest rung/spring perch on the back set for even height, front height is set, and very good.

Very nice, i want to get my rear down a little, as it seems to have a slight rake to it. What mounting points did you use (are there three moutning options for the rear, and only one for the front, right) for the rear to get that height. Also what rebound settings are you using?

[lswing]

Very nice, i want to get my rear down a little, as it seems to have a slight rake to it. What mounting points did you use (are there three moutning options for the rear, and only one for the front, right) for the rear to get that height. Also what rebound settings are you using?

The rake in the back tends to be from the DRC not being pressurized correctly.

Front is set height. Rear has 3 perch settings, and the lowest one is where I'm at (and I think all others have used this).

I'm set on full soft all around, but it's still a nice firm ride, holds the car very well. Admittedly I don't want a firm race car like ride when most of my driving is around town/freeway. It's tempting to give the front one click towards firm to compensate for all that weight, but again it would be harsher around town. I would think that two clicks firm on the front, and one click firm on the back would be a very stiff ride, maybe others can chime in. It's so subjective though, I've been in a few stiff rides that I would never want to drive around, and the owner liked it. The only downside with these Koni's is once you set it, it's take apart to adjust, and another alignment, still not the worst.

[petzl21]

So stupid question, when you say lowest setting on the rear it's the lowest groove on the body when it's upright. Just wanna be sure.

[lswing]

So stupid question, when you say lowest setting on the rear it's the lowest groove on the body when it's upright. Just wanna be sure.

Here's the thread again just to be sure. The lowest groove from what I remember, should be clear in the manual. I go to the shop when work is being done, great to have friends in the business. Sad to say I'm a keyboard mechanic:)

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/23946-Completed-DIY-DRC-removal-swap-with-Koni-Yellow-Sports