Pre-Purchase Questions

[jedy617]

Hey guys I'm really considering buying an RS6 but I'm very worried that the tranny will fail on me. I test drove this example with 51k miles and it shifted very well, I'm wondering if I just do a MTM TCU chip it will increase the life of the transmission?

Here is the car: http://www.ebay.com/itm/<wbr>Audi-RS6-Base-Sedan-4-Door/<wbr>251572175006?_trksid=p2046732.<wbr>c100040.m2060&_trkparms=aid%<wbr>3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%<wbr>26ao%3D1%26asc%<wbr>3D20140107095009%26meid%<wbr>3D7969738333124468623%26pid%<wbr>3D100040%26prg%<wbr>3D20140107095009%26rk%3D4%<wbr>26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D151336712686 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-RS6-Base-Sedan-4-Door/251572175006?_trksid=p2046732.c100040.m2060&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1% 26asc%3D20140107095009%26meid%3D796973833312446862 3%26pid%3D100040%26prg%3D20140107095009%26rk%3D4%2 6rkt%3D4%26sd%3D151336712686)




Here was one other car that I saw with 80k miles but it had an upgraded IPT Transmission. I just don't like the fact that it has 30k more miles, here is that one:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-<wbr>RS6-Quattro-2003-AUDI-RS6-<wbr>QUATTRO-NAV-ENHANCE-EXHAUST-<wbr>CARBON-FIBER-RARE-ONLY-84K-<wbr>MILES-/171368317523?<wbr>forcerrptr=true&hash=<wbr>item27e6590253&item=<wbr>171368317523&pt=US_Cars_Trucks (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-RS6-Quattro-2003-AUDI-RS6-QUATTRO-NAV-ENHANCE-EXHAUST-CARBON-FIBER-RARE-ONLY-84K-MILES-/171368317523?forcerrptr=true&hash=item27e6590253&item=171368317523&pt=US_Cars_Trucks)



Do I go for the car with lower mileage and a later VIN or the car with the earlier VIN, more miles and the upgraded tranny? If you guys could give me any advice I would really really appreciate it!

[mik15]

i'd say get the one that has had the most maintenance done, meaning the one which had many parts recently replaced, such as gearbox, timing belt, brakes and so on...mileage doesn't really matter as long as it has been well maintained, my first RS6 had 72k miles when i bought it and the second one had 142k miles, trust me there is no difference regarding to how it pulls or drive...sooner or later you'll end up doing the same things, it's only a matter of time but having an upgraded gearbox is a big plus...

from the pictures both cars look great, ok, to me the black looks a bit better than the blue one :), maybe because photos were taken under natural light, while the blue one has the neon light making it look like it's trying to hard to look good and too much tire shine gel used, that's my impression...

[vitalian]

The 75K service is very expensive if you're not doing it yourself ($4-7K, depending on the shop), so if the 80K car has had that done already, you are already saving yourself some $$$. Also, if the transmission rebuild is solid, you have no reason to be concerned about it.

On the other hand, the lower-mileage car probably has better resale value if you're not planning on keeping the car for a long time, and you probably (but not certainly) have many miles to go before the transmission needs rebuilding.

You will get opinions on both sides of this debate for sure.

[Bigglezworth]

I just don't like the fact that it has 30k more miles....
As mentioned above, purchase a car (whatever car that is) that has been well maintained - and the one that has the records to back up the claims of said maintenance. Unless you are a superhero and can 'see' mileage, it's a non-player. I haven't purhased a single one of my RS6's with less than 110K. In fact my second one was purchased with 212K.... It ran stronger, was tighter, and had less maintenance issues than the others with half the mileage (had everything already replaced as part of regular maintenance)....

[jedy617]

The 75K service is very expensive if you're not doing it yourself ($4-7K, depending on the shop), so if the 80K car has had that done already, you are already saving yourself some $$$. Also, if the transmission rebuild is solid, you have no reason to be concerned about it.

On the other hand, the lower-mileage car probably has better resale value if you're not planning on keeping the car for a long time, and you probably (but not certainly) have many miles to go before the transmission needs rebuilding.

You will get opinions on both sides of this debate for sure.

Thanks guys, great to know. Wow I didn't know service would be that expensive...after the 75k mile service, when I'd the next big service and how much money is it? It sounds like I should check the blue one out, but if I chose the black one and throw the TCU on it...what are the chances of the transmission holding up fine? Thanks again!

[jedy617]

So I just checked the black one and the VIN is: 905350, is that considered to be a later vin? Are they much less prone are they to transmission failures? I don't mined the DRC failing as much obviously. Sory for so many questions, I just don't want to buy any of these cars and put 5-10k in them after a couple months of ownership since it sounds like the transmissions are fickle along with stuff like O2 sensors.

[lswing]

Thanks guys, great to know. Wow I didn't know service would be that expensive...after the 75k mile service, when I'd the next big service and how much money is it? It sounds like I should check the blue one out, but if I chose the black one and throw the TCU on it...what are the chances of the transmission holding up fine? Thanks again!

You can expect the next big service in 1 day to 1 year, seriously. Chances of trans holding up are much better if not tuned, combined with driving habits. Make sure you have a good mechanic if possible, along with an extra $5k around at most times for issues. Other than that, have fun!

[vitalian]

Go to the "sticky" thread above where Erik has collected DIY and FAQ threads -- you will find a lot of the info you are seeking there. For some idea of what the service intervals entail, look at the thread in the "sticky" that lists all of the service intervals and part numbers. You'll see how much the car needs at 75K, and then you won't be surprised at how expensive it is.

[jedy617]

Go to the "sticky" thread above where Erik has collected DIY and FAQ threads -- you will find a lot of the info you are seeking there. For some idea of what the service intervals entail, look at the thread in the "sticky" that lists all of the service intervals and part numbers. You'll see how much the car needs at 75K, and then you won't be surprised at how expensive it is.


Thanks guys I'll check out the Mugello blue and compare them

[Bigglezworth]

I just don't want to buy any of these cars and put 5-10k in them after a couple months of ownership...Sadly, this specific vehicle bodes from the age old adage, "you will need to expect to pay, if you want to play...."

[jedy617]

Sadly, this specific vehicle bodes from the age old adage, "you will need to expect to pay, if you want to play...."
I mean I don't mind spending money on maintaining it, let's say 5k for 2-3 years ( I drive less than 5000 miles a year), I just want to pay to mantain it, not to rebuild a transmission...maybe the blue car with the rebuilt transmission is the way to go, but the black one just looks so perfect :(

[jedy617]

Maybe the smart idea is to buy the black one with a powertrain warranty till 100k miles...anyone know how much those cost?

[Dynmicracr]

*shameless plug*

Mine is for sale. Its a later model with the solid tranny. 93K miles. 80K service done at 83K my 034 Motorsports (can provide receipt). :)

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/4518744224.html

[Dynmicracr]

On the second one the Airbag light is on for some reason. Looks clean otherwise though.

[jedy617]

*shameless plug*

Mine is for sale. Its a later model with the solid tranny. 93K miles. 80K service done at 83K my 034 Motorsports (can provide receipt). :)

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/4518744224.html

Looks great but I'm in Chicago and I'm trading my 2008 R32...unless you want that? Maybe I should keep it based on the maintenance costs...

[lswing]

Looks great but I'm in Chicago and I'm trading my 2008 R32...unless you want that? Maybe I should keep it based on the maintenance costs...

Mileage is about 11-13 city, 18-22 highway, another thing to consider. Insurance wasn't too much more than a normal car. I would estimate a good half of the forum members do most of their own wrenching, or work with a friend on smaller repairs. Myself, I have friends with Audi shops, so labor and parts are honest at $75 per hour, not a dealer or other shop at $125.

I would say without question of the cars are close get the one with the upgraded trans. It should also have the upgraded torque converter. MTM tcu chips helps a bit, but a tune that puts out way more hp and tq will eat up a trans if you're heavy on the throttle doing lots of 0-100's, ahem 0-60's...

Once you drive one, if you haven't, you'll know why we deal with the quirks of this machine. It can also be solid for years, small things here and there, it's a performance car first, luxury second, or something like that.

[jedy617]

Mileage is about 11-13 city, 18-22 highway, another thing to consider. Insurance wasn't too much more than a normal car. I would estimate a good half of the forum members do most of their own wrenching, or work with a friend on smaller repairs. Myself, I have friends with Audi shops, so labor and parts are honest at $75 per hour, not a dealer or other shop at $125.

I would say without question of the cars are close get the one with the upgraded trans. It should also have the upgraded torque converter. MTM tcu chips helps a bit, but a tune that puts out way more hp and tq will eat up a trans if you're heavy on the throttle doing lots of 0-100's, ahem 0-60's...

Once you drive one, if you haven't, you'll know why we deal with the quirks of this machine. It can also be solid for years, small things here and there, it's a performance car first, luxury second, or something like that.
Really great info, thank you so much! I'm going to check out the blue one over the weekend.

[JayB]

..... Insurance wasn't too much more than a normal car. .....

Um, what? Seriously? With whom are you insured?

Also along the insurance lines... anyone done a Hagerty guaranteed value policy on their RS6?

[lswing]

Um, what? Seriously? With whom are you insured?

Also along the insurance lines... anyone done a Hagerty guaranteed value policy on their RS6?

GEICO, clean record, 38, went from ~$450 with the WRX to ~$650 every 6 months, ballpark numbers...actually feel I should pay less, although I just got my first...speeding....ticket....ever....

Oh yea, get an aftermarket warranty for $3-4k or so if you can, Fidelity Platinum comes to mind.

$200 dollars every 6 months with this car is like $20 compared to another, it's nominal.

[DHall1]

Black one for sure. Get records of the last timing belt and full ppi


Hey guys I'm really considering buying an RS6 but I'm very worried that the tranny will fail on me. I test drove this example with 51k miles and it shifted very well, I'm wondering if I just do a MTM TCU chip it will increase the life of the transmission?

Here is the car: http://www.ebay.com/itm/<wbr>Audi-RS6-Base-Sedan-4-Door/<wbr>251572175006?_trksid=p2046732.<wbr>c100040.m2060&_trkparms=aid%<wbr>3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%<wbr>26ao%3D1%26asc%<wbr>3D20140107095009%26meid%<wbr>3D7969738333124468623%26pid%<wbr>3D100040%26prg%<wbr>3D20140107095009%26rk%3D4%<wbr>26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D151336712686 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-RS6-Base-Sedan-4-Door/251572175006?_trksid=p2046732.c100040.m2060&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1% 26asc%3D20140107095009%26meid%3D796973833312446862 3%26pid%3D100040%26prg%3D20140107095009%26rk%3D4%2 6rkt%3D4%26sd%3D151336712686)




Here was one other car that I saw with 80k miles but it had an upgraded IPT Transmission. I just don't like the fact that it has 30k more miles, here is that one:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-<wbr>RS6-Quattro-2003-AUDI-RS6-<wbr>QUATTRO-NAV-ENHANCE-EXHAUST-<wbr>CARBON-FIBER-RARE-ONLY-84K-<wbr>MILES-/171368317523?<wbr>forcerrptr=true&hash=<wbr>item27e6590253&item=<wbr>171368317523&pt=US_Cars_Trucks (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-RS6-Quattro-2003-AUDI-RS6-QUATTRO-NAV-ENHANCE-EXHAUST-CARBON-FIBER-RARE-ONLY-84K-MILES-/171368317523?forcerrptr=true&hash=item27e6590253&item=171368317523&pt=US_Cars_Trucks)



Do I go for the car with lower mileage and a later VIN or the car with the earlier VIN, more miles and the upgraded tranny? If you guys could give me any advice I would really really appreciate it!

[G2]

It's a journey, like buying anything older and special...Is it safe to assume you've personally looked and driven both cars?

That will and should speak volumes. BE SURE to closely monitor engine sounds, tailpipe smoking, excessive engine roughness on COLD start up. I drove about 5-6 before buying mine with 72K miles (early VIN, original trans), now 96K. All were different and unique. Some blew too much smoke on startup (turbo's and/or rings), or were down on power (worn turbo's), shuddered in the corners (suspension issues; rear= driven way too hard). Some owners thought it was OK to drive the tires off but yet still only change the oil at OE/10K intervals (black and nasty=not buying it, sorry). That owner was perplexed and despite it looking very, very nice, sat on the market for another 18 months that I was aware of.

Personally, I'd say buy one from an enthusiast that cared for the car (I did). And not some dealer that will say whatever you want to hear. If buying from a dealer, get a warranty but don't let them gouge you. Shouldn't cost more than 1/2-2/3 of their asking price.

You'll see similar information poking around this site. And threads addressing all common ailments.

Best advice I could offer to avert driveline problems (not just the trans....) is to change all the fluids. Change mine every year, and a full trans service every 2 years. If and when I part with this car, someone will get a solid machine. It's a High Needs car, but compared to all the Ferrari's at my friends shop, is faster and nicer that most of them (the "affordable" ones) , and far cheaper to own.

BTW- I'd try to get a West Coast car if you can. Or one that hasn't been driven in the salt. Recently did a bunch of work on a late model jag from Chicago and it was a pain to service. Lastly, get it checked out be an Audi specialist. Good luck (it's a factor with these cars...) and cheers. We love these cars for good reason. Kudos to VAG for being 10yrs ahead of the game.

[DHall1]

Uhhhh, ^^^^what Gary said + 50000

And lswing....I pay 208/6months for full coverage on my RS6s. Same for the SQ5

[Bigglezworth]

It's a journey, like buying anything older and special...Is it safe to assume you've personally looked and driven both cars?

That will and should speak volumes. BE SURE to closely monitor engine sounds, tailpipe smoking, excessive engine roughness on COLD start up. I drove about 5-6 before buying mine with 72K miles (early VIN, original trans), now 96K. All were different and unique. Some blew too much smoke on startup (turbo's and/or rings), or were down on power (worn turbo's), shuddered in the corners (suspension issues; rear= driven way too hard). Some owners thought it was OK to drive the tires off but yet still only change the oil at OE/10K intervals (black and nasty=not buying it, sorry). That owner was perplexed and despite it looking very, very nice, sat on the market for another 18 months that I was aware of.

Personally, I'd say buy one from an enthusiast that cared for the car (I did). And not some dealer that will say whatever you want to hear. If buying from a dealer, get a warranty but don't let them gouge you. Shouldn't cost more than 1/2-2/3 of their asking price.

You'll see similar information poking around this site. And threads addressing all common ailments.

Best advice I could offer to avert driveline problems (not just the trans....) is to change all the fluids. Change mine every year, and a full trans service every 2 years. If and when I part with this car, someone will get a solid machine. It's a High Needs car, but compared to all the Ferrari's at my friends shop, is faster and nicer that most of them (the "affordable" ones) , and far cheaper to own.

BTW- I'd try to get a West Coast car if you can. Or one that hasn't been driven in the salt. Recently did a bunch of work on a late model jag from Chicago and it was a pain to service. Lastly, get it checked out be an Audi specialist. Good luck (it's a factor with these cars...) and cheers. We love these cars for good reason. Kudos to VAG for being 10yrs ahead of the game.
Ditto. +2

[jedy617]

It's a journey, like buying anything older and special...Is it safe to assume you've personally looked and driven both cars?

That will and should speak volumes. BE SURE to closely monitor engine sounds, tailpipe smoking, excessive engine roughness on COLD start up. I drove about 5-6 before buying mine with 72K miles (early VIN, original trans), now 96K. All were different and unique. Some blew too much smoke on startup (turbo's and/or rings), or were down on power (worn turbo's), shuddered in the corners (suspension issues; rear= driven way too hard). Some owners thought it was OK to drive the tires off but yet still only change the oil at OE/10K intervals (black and nasty=not buying it, sorry). That owner was perplexed and despite it looking very, very nice, sat on the market for another 18 months that I was aware of.

Personally, I'd say buy one from an enthusiast that cared for the car (I did). And not some dealer that will say whatever you want to hear. If buying from a dealer, get a warranty but don't let them gouge you. Shouldn't cost more than 1/2-2/3 of their asking price.

You'll see similar information poking around this site. And threads addressing all common ailments.

Best advice I could offer to avert driveline problems (not just the trans....) is to change all the fluids. Change mine every year, and a full trans service every 2 years. If and when I part with this car, someone will get a solid machine. It's a High Needs car, but compared to all the Ferrari's at my friends shop, is faster and nicer that most of them (the "affordable" ones) , and far cheaper to own.

BTW- I'd try to get a West Coast car if you can. Or one that hasn't been driven in the salt. Recently did a bunch of work on a late model jag from Chicago and it was a pain to service. Lastly, get it checked out be an Audi specialist. Good luck (it's a factor with these cars...) and cheers. We love these cars for good reason. Kudos to VAG for being 10yrs ahead of the game.

I test drove the black one and everything seemed perfect on it, and I'm going to check out the blue one Saturday. It seems like the engine I'd pretty reliable compared to the transmission though...turbos dying isn't super common is it? Both these cars have not been tuned so no extra boost

[jedy617]

Guys I know this is a bit random, but along with the Blue RS6 I think I'll also be checking out a 2008 S6 with around 80k miles on Saturday. I know it isn't as fast as the RS6...but from a maintenance standpoint I'm expecting it to be a good amount more reliable, and the interior is a pretty nice upgrade. Thoughts?

[Bdubs]

Guys I know this is a bit random, but along with the Blue RS6 I think I'll also be checking out a 2008 S6 with around 80k miles on Saturday. I know it isn't as fast as the RS6...but from a maintenance standpoint I'm expecting it to be a good amount more reliable, and the interior is a pretty nice upgrade. Thoughts?

I owned a 2007 S6 so can speak from experience. It's not as fast, not as mod-able (really not much you can do, outside of a tune that is overpriced and eeks out a few more HP/TQ, an exhaust, air filters and sway bars) and not 11 years old - so it's likely going to be more wallet friendly on repairs and it doesn't have the "major" issues the RS6 can have. However, I loved my S6. I had a non resonated milltek exhaust and between the sound and the always on torque of the car, it was a blast to drive. If you buy one, put on the best summer rubber you can afford, because the car is massively nose heavy and it feels like it in the turns. I would have eventually upgraded sway bars, if I had kept it. As for the comfort/tech, it was great.

You will need to do a carbon cleaning at some point...pretty common maintenance item on the car. You also have 10 cylinders to maintain...I believe the 55k mile service would have been around $850 at the dealer, maybe more (cheap for the guys on this forum, I suppose)...I was able to do it for half that through a friend/audi tech. I never had to do brakes or tires in my ownership, and other than a seat belt sensor in the back seat that went bad, I had no issues in my ownership - just gas and oil changes (had it for 2 years).

If I was buying now, though, I would go RS6. I've always wanted one, hence my lurking on this site...but I went 2007 S6 to 2002 S6 and now, to quiet the demons of my car buying disease, I'm leasing a 2014 Infiniti Q50S through December 2014...then, I hope...it's into a used S6 or S7...:0:

[lswing]

Would stay away from the S6 myself. Get an S4 with 4.2V8, sounds more up your alley? RS5 with manual?

Here's a thread from when I looked into the S6. Issues, along with weight and sub-par looks kept me away.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/26381-2007-s6-v10?highlight=

[DHall1]

Except the V8 S4 blows up at 100k. Search timing chain

C5 RS6 if you can find a clean one

B8 S4 if your worried about maint costs.


Would stay away from the S6 myself. Get an S4 with 4.2V8, sounds more up your alley? RS5 with manual?

Here's a thread from when I looked into the S6. Issues, along with weight and sub-par looks kept me away.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/26381-2007-s6-v10?highlight=

[jedy617]

For some reason the S4 doesn't do anything for me...although there is a clean A6 with a 3.0t that I could get and through a tune on, but I like the rarity factor of an S or RS. I guess it's going to come down to reliability for me between the blue rs6 and the s6. The trans has been replaced in the RS6 so I'm wondering if I would run into any problems, it doesn't seem like there are many besides the DRC? I'll be kicking myself if I buy the RS6 and have huge maintenance issues, and I'll kick myself if I get the S6 and I'll lose my interest in it quick due to it not being as fun. Either way I'm going to check them out both in person and see which one speaks to me more.

[jedy617]

I owned a 2007 S6 so can speak from experience. It's not as fast, not as mod-able (really not much you can do, outside of a tune that is overpriced and eeks out a few more HP/TQ, an exhaust, air filters and sway bars) and not 11 years old - so it's likely going to be more wallet friendly on repairs and it doesn't have the "major" issues the RS6 can have. However, I loved my S6. I had a non resonated milltek exhaust and between the sound and the always on torque of the car, it was a blast to drive. If you buy one, put on the best summer rubber you can afford, because the car is massively nose heavy and it feels like it in the turns. I would have eventually upgraded sway bars, if I had kept it. As for the comfort/tech, it was great.

You will need to do a carbon cleaning at some point...pretty common maintenance item on the car. You also have 10 cylinders to maintain...I believe the 55k mile service would have been around $850 at the dealer, maybe more (cheap for the guys on this forum, I suppose)...I was able to do it for half that through a friend/audi tech. I never had to do brakes or tires in my ownership, and other than a seat belt sensor in the back seat that went bad, I had no issues in my ownership - just gas and oil changes (had it for 2 years).

If I was buying now, though, I would go RS6. I've always wanted one, hence my lurking on this site...but I went 2007 S6 to 2002 S6 and now, to quiet the demons of my car buying disease, I'm leasing a 2014 Infiniti Q50S through December 2014...then, I hope...it's into a used S6 or S7...:0:

Great info, thanks!

[JayB]

I dunno... seems like an easy choice....

Just get whichever one has the most turbos ;)

[jedy617]

I dunno... seems like an easy choice....

Just get whichever one has the most turbos ;)
Or the most cylinders ;)

[DHall1]

Rare 90k German hotrod costs money to keep it running as a daily.

C6 A6 3.0t is a good choice for a daily on a budget.

I just hate the V10 S6. IMHO. I only have two RS6s sitting in the garage. Wth do I know.


For some reason the S4 doesn't do anything for me...although there is a clean A6 with a 3.0t that I could get and through a tune on, but I like the rarity factor of an S or RS. I guess it's going to come down to reliability for me between the blue rs6 and the s6. The trans has been replaced in the RS6 so I'm wondering if I would run into any problems, it doesn't seem like there are many besides the DRC? I'll be kicking myself if I buy the RS6 and have huge maintenance issues, and I'll kick myself if I get the S6 and I'll lose my interest in it quick due to it not being as fun. Either way I'm going to check them out both in person and see which one speaks to me more.

[JayB]

Or the most cylinders ;)

BOOST >>> dispalcement

boost is very addictive and way more fun.

[lswing]

For some reason the S4 doesn't do anything for me...although there is a clean A6 with a 3.0t that I could get and through a tune on, but I like the rarity factor of an S or RS. I guess it's going to come down to reliability for me between the blue rs6 and the s6. The trans has been replaced in the RS6 so I'm wondering if I would run into any problems, it doesn't seem like there are many besides the DRC? I'll be kicking myself if I buy the RS6 and have huge maintenance issues, and I'll kick myself if I get the S6 and I'll lose my interest in it quick due to it not being as fun. Either way I'm going to check them out both in person and see which one speaks to me more.

TC, Trans, EGT's, O2's, alternator, AC, hoses, temp sensors, bufkin oil/coolant pipe (read about little plastic pipe), coolant leak, power steering...myriad of things that can be around $1k to $5k. IF it's not tuned the trans should last, IF you don't hammer on it. Tuned, I lost a trans in a year, not sure what went wrong...

You need a good mechanic, or friends, or I wouldn't recommend the RS6. Even then it can add up...BUT, you may get lucky, and it's an amazing car!

[Bdubs]

TC, Trans, EGT's, O2's, alternator, AC, hoses, temp sensors, bufkin oil/coolant pipe (read about little plastic pipe), coolant leak, power steering...myriad of things that can be around $1k to $5k. IF it's not tuned the trans should last, IF you don't hammer on it. Tuned, I lost a trans in a year, not sure what went wrong...

You need a good mechanic, or friends, or I wouldn't recommend the RS6. Even then it can add up...BUT, you may get lucky, and it's an amazing car!

I think I remember why I keep not buying an RS6...haha. I even talked myself out of an S8 back in December because my friend with the garage/lift is moving to AZ in a few months so I was losing the garage where the audi tech I know could work on my cars on the cheap. Plus I know myself...I hammer on my cars...it's just how I'm wired, so I know I'd break something expensive sooner or later...

[mik15]

i did a quick math of the bills i have with this RS6, i got all of them since the first service, all services up to 130k miles were done only at the Audi dealership and the expenses do not include tires.
So the previous two owners have spent from Sep. 2003 until May 2013 the amount of cca. $48000 and i have spent an additional cca. $2500(does not include tires or other mods such as RNS-E, etc), these money were spent on pure maintenance and they include 3 x DRC and 1 x gearbox as the major repairs.
Besides that, 1 alternator, 1 steering pump, 1 alternator harness, 1 voltage regulator, oil bracket, water pipe, various engine seals, EGT's, both front drive shafts, and all the regular staff such as rotors, pads, axle boots, spark plugs, etc.

So, if we do an average would be around $5000 per year, or .34$/mile.
Considering the car costed new cca. $100000 + $50500=$150500 over 10 years. If the car would be sold today best case scenario would bring $10000, that's a loss of $140000 in 10 years, about $14000/year :) . Actually the loss is higher if we would add up the fuel and tires :) !

Would i buy one new if i could? hell yes!!! no doubt about it! And i am 110% sure that the new RS6 wouldn't cost so much in maintenance over a 10 years period of time, plus now they have these great service packages where you spend $0 for 3 years if you buy the ultimate maintenance package where even tires are included. On the C5 nothing much was covered here in Middle East by the warranty!

[Bigglezworth]

For some reason the S4 doesn't do anything for me...although there is a clean A6 with a 3.0t that I could get and through a tune on, but I like the rarity factor of an S or RS. I guess it's going to come down to reliability for me between the blue rs6 and the s6. The trans has been replaced in the RS6 so I'm wondering if I would run into any problems, it doesn't seem like there are many besides the DRC? I'll be kicking myself if I buy the RS6 and have huge maintenance issues, and I'll kick myself if I get the S6 and I'll lose my interest in it quick due to it not being as fun. Either way I'm going to check them out both in person and see which one speaks to me more.
You're going to get a variety of opinions obviously, but I believe I'm safe in stating (even on this forum) that irrespective of whether an item has been 'replaced' or not, there is NO guarantee that it won't fail in the future. This holds true for second gen DRC's, second tranny's, second TQ's, second sets of turbos, the list goes on. There have been reported cases of tranny's failing on cars that were sub 20K in mileage. There have also been reported cases of those same tranny's holding 200K...

Bottom line is that if you continue to stand on the fence, you're bound to waiver and fall off. Only you will decide which side to land on. There is and ALWAYS will be more $$ required to enjoy this specific car - regardless of mileage. This doesn't automatically equate to just standard maintenance either. Don't get be wrong. I'm not saying run away. Far cry from that. I own three RS6's and they have all had different things go wrong with them over the years. Does one cost more to drive than the other - absolutely (and NO, it's not the one with the lower mileage). Has been exactly the opposite. The one with items replaced as ongoing maintenance has been the better survivor.

If you're not a wrencher, then perhaps you're better off looking at the one that you can get a warranty on. Logic suggests the one that has a rebuilt tranny would be a better purchase than the one that is still OEM. The tranny replacement matter is not a situation of 'if', but rather a situation of 'when' it will fail.... No one on this forum here can dispute that.

[jedy617]

You're going to get a variety of opinions obviously, but I believe I'm safe in stating (even on this forum) that irrespective of whether an item has been 'replaced' or not, there is NO guarantee that it won't fail in the future. This holds true for second gen DRC's, second tranny's, second TQ's, second sets of turbos, the list goes on. There have been reported cases of tranny's failing on cars that were sub 20K in mileage. There have also been reported cases of those same tranny's holding 200K...

Bottom line is that if you continue to stand on the fence, you're bound to waiver and fall off. Only you will decide which side to land on. There is and ALWAYS will be more $$ required to enjoy this specific car - regardless of mileage. This doesn't automatically equate to just standard maintenance either. Don't get be wrong. I'm not saying run away. Far cry from that. I own three RS6's and they have all had different things go wrong with them over the years. Does one cost more to drive than the other - absolutely (and NO, it's not the one with the lower mileage). Has been exactly the opposite. The one with items replaced as ongoing maintenance has been the better survivor.

If you're not a wrencher, then perhaps you're better off looking at the one that you can get a warranty on. Logic suggests the one that has a rebuilt tranny would be a better purchase than the one that is still OEM. The tranny replacement matter is not a situation of 'if', but rather a situation of 'when' it will fail.... No one on this forum here can dispute that.
Good things to consider...last thing I'll ask until I see the cars is, if I'm not worried about the transmission on the RS6 since it is an IPT rebuilt transmission along with a torque converter, how reliable is everything else? I know the engine is made by cosworth and has forged internals, but I just read about O2 sensors, EGT and some other issues? Do they occur often?

[mik15]

apart from gearbox and the DRC everything else is just like any other car, only a bit more expensive due to expensive labor, however on this forum you'll find many workarounds that will save you a lot of cashola compared to what a dealership would ask.
mine is now on 145k miles and still on original O2, EGT's were replaced at around 100k, as far as i could see on my previous RS6 that's about when they start to fail, however there is a thread here showing how to repair it, looks like only the soldering fails as it cracks, the proves are alright, does worth a try.

As for other parts that fail see my previous post, but as i said, those will fail on any other car at some point, so that shouldn't put you away.

[jedy617]

apart from gearbox and the DRC everything else is just like any other car, only a bit more expensive due to expensive labor, however on this forum you'll find many workarounds that will save you a lot of cashola compared to what a dealership would ask.
mine is now on 145k miles and still on original O2, EGT's were replaced at around 100k, as far as i could see on my previous RS6 that's about when they start to fail, however there is a thread here showing how to repair it, looks like only the soldering fails as it cracks, the proves are alright, does worth a try.

As for other parts that fail see my previous post, but as i said, those will fail on any other car at some point, so that shouldn't put you away.
I'll check them out and report my findings, thanks!

[Bigglezworth]

Guys I know this is a bit random, but along with the Blue RS6 I think I'll also be checking out a 2008 S6 with around 80k miles on Saturday. I know it isn't as fast as the RS6...but from a maintenance standpoint I'm expecting it to be a good amount more reliable, and the interior is a pretty nice upgrade. Thoughts?I just got back in tonight after attending a nice evening event and as I walked back to my car, there was a V10 S6 parked directly in front of me. Have to admit - the S6 looks so blah in comparisson. Wasn't anything agressive about the styling. Irrespective of performance, I would still gravitate to the more agressive looking styling queues of an RS.

[jedy617]

I just got back in tonight after attending a nice evening event and as I walked back to my car, there was a V10 S6 parked directly in front of me. Have to admit - the S6 looks so blah in comparisson. Wasn't anything agressive about the styling. Irrespective of performance, I would still gravitate to the more agressive looking styling queues of an RS.
I do agree with you on that. Again, the maintenance/reliability just scares me, but who knows I may just say screw it and pick myself up one in Mugello Blue...Hopefully I don't have bad luck. I would have bought the car in a second if I didn't stumble on this forum and read maintenance costs and issues lol

[jedy617]

So I went to check out some cars today, unfortunately the Blue RS6 was not at the dealership, it was in the shop because it wasn't starting (of course) and I had to drive out awhile to see it in the first place. I'll have to see it another time. The grey S6 actually drove pretty well, but there were so many chips on the hood and fenders, and there was some paint bubbling on the roof, and the dealer was asking 2k over kelly blue book value and there were big paint issues. I'm back to considering the black RS6, and I'll need to make the trip again to see the blue one.

[Dmb408]

Shameless plug too, mine is "lightly" for sale I'd say, since I still haven't listed it on AutoTrader and I am still putting new things on it as of late. But it is in the for sale section (search my posts) and I'm in Detroit (so close to you). I had a MKIV R32...if you had one of those in good shape we'd be trading (still regret selling mine because now you can't find ones in the condition I sold mine).

[jedy617]

Shameless plug too, mine is "lightly" for sale I'd say, since I still haven't listed it on AutoTrader and I am still putting new things on it as of late. But it is in the for sale section (search my posts) and I'm in Detroit (so close to you). I had a MKIV R32...if you had one of those in good shape we'd be trading (still regret selling mine because now you can't find ones in the condition I sold mine).

My car is a MKV R32. And why the switch from RS6 to R32?

[Dmb408]

Yea I picked up MKV from '08. DSG (faster, but, bah!). I had an RS4 in between the two so I went from R32 to RS4 for more naturally aspirated AWD sleeper power.

[jedy617]

Yea I picked up MKV from '08. DSG (faster, but, bah!). I had an RS4 in between the two so I went from R32 to RS4 for more naturally aspirated AWD sleeper power.

Yeah I'm considering the switch because I want something a little bit bigger and faster. I think I will miss the tossibility of my R. Would you make the switch if you could from a MKV to an RS6 for a minimal amount of money? I hope I don't regret the switch.

[Dmb408]

Totally different cost propositions. I like the bigger four door cars too, so I know where you are coming from, but I'd spend more and get an RS4 (IMO cheaper repairs on the horizon, more money up front, and nearly the same car). RS4 you really had to dog it to get the power because of the high revs (RS6 you don't, great low end). But when all is said and done you have a less than 5 sec 0-60 car in either and awesome hwy cruising at high speeds.

You are going to spend way more on an RS6 when all is said and done than you are on your MKV. Do you have lightweight wheels yet? I did limited mods on my MKIV. Carbonio cold air, GIAC tune, flapper mod, but the best mod I ever did was towards the tail end of owning I made the stock wheels my winter set and I bought OZ Allegritas on new rubber...the change with super lightwheels was huge.

[jedy617]

Totally different cost propositions. I like the bigger four door cars too, so I know where you are coming from, but I'd spend more and get an RS4 (IMO cheaper repairs on the horizon, more money up front, and nearly the same car). RS4 you really had to dog it to get the power because of the high revs (RS6 you don't, great low end). But when all is said and done you have a less than 5 sec 0-60 car in either and awesome hwy cruising at high speeds.

You are going to spend way more on an RS6 when all is said and done than you are on your MKV. Do you have lightweight wheels yet? I did limited mods on my MKIV. Carbonio cold air, GIAC tune, flapper mod, but the best mod I ever did was towards the tail end of owning I made the stock wheels my winter set and I bought OZ Allegritas on new rubber...the change with super lightwheels was huge.

Yeah I know the maintenance costs are huge. There aren't many RS4s around me, and they command a pretty big premium even with tons of miles. I literally saw one with 200k miles for sale for like $28,000. And yes I have light weight wheels, suspension, and intake. And I do like the low end torque of the RS6 for daily driving it. Besides higher maintanence costs, would you make the switch?

[Dmb408]

But when you say "besides maintenance costs" you realize you can have a year of about ~10K even w/o doing the trans (which is basically what I had last 12 months). So relax, drive it, but be ready to pony up, then yea, I'd do it.

[jedy617]

But when you say "besides maintenance costs" you realize you can have a year of about ~10K even w/o doing the trans (which is basically what I had last 12 months). So relax, drive it, but be ready to pony up, then yea, I'd do it.

Without doing the trans? I mean I can handle 2-3k a year but 10 sounds insane. How did you get to 10k?

[jedy617]

I want one of these so badly but you guys are talking me out of it :(

[lswing]

Upgraded trans, $3,750 with shipping
EGT sensors, $600
Fluid, $250
Misc, $250
Labor, $3,000

15346

Did that last year...

Get a car that you can get a good extended warranty on. Buy from a user on here that has already fixed/replaced all the 10/11 year old parts.

[jedy617]

Either that, or get the one with the upgraded trans and hope for the best. I don't think I have the money to buy the car and the warranty right away, I was planning on getting the car for a good price and put away 2-3k for a rainy day fund. I do have a good mechanic who works at a very reasonable rate which is nice. To be honest these costs might scare me into an E46 M3 however.

[jedy617]

I just need one person to respond who hasn't have a horror story about anything besides the transmission and I'd probably buy one in a heartbeat but all of this is putting me off :( I don't mind more expensive maintenance but having to spend 10k a year is a little more than I bargained for...

[lswing]

The one with the IPT could be a deal, looks like a rock solid trans, LOOKS, and it's expensive. Being careful and not flogging it too much can make a big difference.

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/catalog/audi--vw-complete-performance-transmissions/audi-zf5hp24-performance-transmission-inc.-tiptronic-3968.html

[jedy617]

The one with the IPT could be a deal, looks like a rock solid trans, LOOKS, and it's expensive. Being careful and not flogging it too much can make a big difference.

http://www.importperformancetrans.com/catalog/audi--vw-complete-performance-transmissions/audi-zf5hp24-performance-transmission-inc.-tiptronic-3968.html
Yeah, my thought is that I won't have to worry about the trans failing, and worse comes to worse, if something like the O2 sensors failed I would fix it, learn my lesson and sell it and get back into something a little cheaper to maintain.

[Falltboat]

I don't have much experience having just bought my beasty in November (i'm at 116k miles). However after fixing the things that the previous owner neglected (and I knew there would be some due to the rapid turnaround of the last 3 owners (<6 months each)), the car has been spectacular. I had to replace the brake light switch ($11) and just had the outlet hose from the driver side intercooler come off (took a while to get back on but no damage). Going in this weekend to have the next set of scheduled maintenance done. The car is an absolute blast to drive and so long as there are no pre existing conditions I would say go for it.

[jedy617]

My man...hahaha thank you, maybe I'll just go for it...these aren't easy cars to come by

[DHall1]

Listen up

My vote is the black one if its stock. Low miles and clean cannot be trumped

My #1 and #3 have been perfect from day one of ownership. Just a trans in #3 due to early vin.

Both cars were mint and low miles upon purchase and bone stock.

Buy the black one



My man...hahaha thank you, maybe I'll just go for it...these aren't easy cars to come by

[Bigglezworth]

I just need one person to respond who hasn't have a horror story about anything besides the transmission and I'd probably buy one in a heartbeat but all of this is putting me off :( I don't mind more expensive maintenance but having to spend 10k a year is a little more than I bargained for...It's NOT 10K/yr/ Not even close. What you need to know (which you already appear to), is that there are a couple of large ticket items that 'could' go south on you with little warning. There is no definiative on when a tranny will fail, but we all know they eventually will. The car has no worse of a track record for regular maintenance items than the next in my experience, but you must be cognizant that at some point if you own the car long enough, you will see a health repair bill for a big item. Just the way it is. Performance expectations require you be aware that something will fail. Most people that own this car know that and account for it.

[Dmb408]

Sorry I was the one crapping on this party, I will pull out my RS6 folder today and finally tally last 12 months, but I know off the top of my head it includes suction jet pump (about 1500), strut, bushings and recharge (about 1000), valve cover gaskets cause i didnt want to do passenger side myself (about 1000), timing belt job (about 2000) voltage regulator, battery, ECT sensor, full tune up, plugs and coils, two oil changes, alignment, trans drain and fill, all air filters, etc. I should be good now for years with just oil changes but obviously I did do a lot these last 12 months so I was just saying for your benefit.

[Other_Erik]

Other than pothole damage getting fixed courtesy of local municipality, almost all my outlay (quite a bit more than below) on the RS has been making it better than it was (CF Interior, RNS-E, winter wheels/tires set, etc...). My actual maintenance costs in 13 months of ownership:

Oil Change (full synthetic on day 1) $179
Windshield Wipers (full replacement, not inserts): $48 (Okay, I did the labor on this)
Busted engine mount (replaced the day I got it): $379
Front Right Inner CV Joint (replaced the day I got it): $189
New Key (Just after I bought it): $589
Tires (knew they were low when I bought it): $1250 incl. M&B/Align
Suspension Lift: $110
Full brake pads replacement: $219 (I did the labor, and the price now on Amazon is more like 325)
Alignment: $149

Total: $3112. And I'm about to get the oil changed again, so call it $3300. With that said, I'm not going to need to replace tires again for a while, so hopefully the next year will only run me about $2k in maintenance or less.

It's not a horror-show so long as it's well maintained, and you have to realize that every time you drop the pedal, you're taking a multi-thousand dollar roll of the dice on the torque converter and transmission. I was lucky enough that the one I bought had the trans replaced under CPO warranty at 97k miles back in 2011...

[Dmb408]

Erik, you just reminded me I did the same right CV too...

[jedy617]

So I finally just test drove the blue one and here are my thoughts. It was a very nice looking car, but the driving experience left me conflicted. I had it out for a good 20 minutes, and the car pulled very strong, but the transmission let me down a bit, especially since it was a performance rebuild. When the car shifted, it felt a little rough, it pushed you back a bit, felt like it was practically bucking a little bit. Much more noticeable shifting it myself and in S mode, but still a little present in normal drive. Is this pretty normal, especially with an IPT transmission and torque converter? Is this a slipping transmission you think? I've never driven a car with transmission issues.
The car was also very comfy to drive, and while it seemed to handle nice, it just didn't feel even close to as tossable as my R32 but that is to be expected, even though my R32 is a heavy car for what it is. The 75k mile service has been done, and the water pump and timing chain replaced at 60k miles. The car had KW V3 suspension but the owner switched it back when Audi came out with the DRC update for free which sucks, because I felt like the car would have felt much better with V3's :( So I'm a little conflicted...going back into my car, I remember how much I love the light steering and the nimbleness, but the RS6 is a good amount faster and comfy, and there is more space. I'm going to need to think on this for awhile.

[lswing]

Guessing it shifted rougher due to being performance rebuild. You've got more clutch plates, tougher material, increased pressure; all about creating less slip. My upgraded trans shifts tougher at times, but it grabs, and that's what you want.

I drove two before buying mine, one was a dog performance wise, both had DRC, worked ok. Was the car tuned? Makes a world of difference in power.

There are many little things that can hinder the performance. Power should blow you away...handling not bad...Quattro with snow tires in the winter, bliss.

[jedy617]

Makes sense. And yes the power was great even though it was unturned.

[lswing]

Makes sense. And yes the power was great even though it was unturned.

Just think, another 50hp and 100tq waiting, just for starters, $500-1k. Upgrade the suspension after a while, sway bars, can be done simply for $1,500. Still a big heavy cruiser. I came over from a modded WRX, and the handling was great, but the power is just exhilarating. AWD, heated leather, paddle shifting, all played into my decision. And a great mechanic...

[mik15]

your perception of the car is really good i must say :) , don't compare it with the R32, won't be as good as that little rabbit, i had a '12 GTi with DSG(and this marvel gearbox totally changes the perception of what an auto-box should be) and i know how a fast nimble light car feels, the RS6 is no such thing, if that is what you looking for than the RS6 is not the car for you. Part of the reason i sold my first RS6 was due to the GTi, that car felt great on the track being so agile and light, however the RS6 is in a totally different league and as soon as you can understand and accept it as is it will be a great car for you, though having both cars would be ideal. For me it didn't work having the RS6 as the family car because i find it not very comfortable for family cruising and i prefer the conveniences of the 750li as the family hauler.

As for the gearbox roughness, it is so due to being rebuilt by IPT, i've driven other RS with rebuilt gearboxes and they're not as smooth anymore as the stock ones. As for the DRC, it is great when is working and less harsh than the KW3, i'd rather have the DRC or the Konis instead of the KW. The RS6 steering is dull unfortunately, especially at low speeds, as the speed increases it becomes much more alive and sends you more feedback, so is the gearbox, at least my stock one(even though it was replaced but with an OEM one), it feels sluggish when crawling in traffic and the car itself doesn't feel good at low speeds, in order to have a proper feeling of it you need to open it up to get the right perception of the car.