First "real" Problem

[Bauer]

I think I may have my first real problem with the RS6. I have had the transmission in drive or sport mode NOT shift out of second and hit redline and then kill the motor. This has happened 3 or 4 times. Kind of dangerous when you are trying to pass someone on a two lane country road as I was doing yesterday. Dont flame me folks it was legal to do so where I was:D :D . Anyone else have this problem???? car is at dealership right now.

[iconcls]

and very dangerous! I hope they figure it out quickly for you; let us know what codes the ECU threw.

[Bauer]

Just got a call from the dealer...tech cant recreate the problem, wants me to go on test drive with him. I will let you know

[RS6FEVR]

:cheers: Bauer

Have not had any experience like this and I've done a fair amount of two lane road driving in the 10600 on the car? Did you do the shifting into second to effect the pass? I often use the paddles to downshift prior to begin a pass? Concur on the dangerous too. I don't think I want to feel this condition at all :confused: :confused:
I'd be interested in the codes too.

:addict: FEVR :addict:

[Bauer]

RS6FEVR-

When it happened the car would loose power since it hit redline and so even after up shifting the car would have MASSIVE power loss until the ECU I guess resets itself. It would take a few minutes of driving for this to happen. So when it happend I would back off and not pass. The car did not do this everytime I floored it just 3 or 4 times.....enough to piss me off AND make me a little nervous.

[Erik]

I had a similar problem in my previous Volvo S70 AWD (manual) after I chipped it. VERY dangerous since it always happened during over taking!

[Bauer]

Well took a test drive with the tech this morning. He said an over boost fault code (p1555) came up and that the car was shuting down because of the over boost. Car was making 609 Nm when its supposed to make 560 Nm. I like the extra power:D :D but dont like the cutting out:mad: . He asked if I had a chip...which I dont. I told him I had put in 1/2 a tank of 100 octane fuel in the car, which he thought would not cause the problem.

I am bringing the car in next week to have the cracked break pads replaced (had to order) at which point he is going to do some more tests. I will keep you posted.:cheers:

[GmbHouse]

Out of curiousity, how did you find out your brake pads were cracked?

[iconcls]

Originally posted by Bauer He said an over boost fault code (p1555) came up and that the car was shuting down because of the over boost.[/B]

At least they were able to replicate it, which IMO, is more than half the battle. Keep us posted.

[Bauer]

Breaks have been making a grinding noise since the Audi Club Nationals.....Randy Pobst did a few laps in my car which caused them a "little" stress. Tech said not dangerous just makes noise. He also said he has noticed it on another car.

[AvusRS6]

Wow, that happened to me (similar) in 1st gear...like the car had no turbo kicking in and it would not shift out of 1st. I thought it was the Chip causing it but it happened in stock mode too.

[CarbonFibre]

If the car was overboosting then it's probably in "limp mode" where it makes very little boost at all and is pretty slow as to save the engine if something has gone wrong.

[Bauer]

Avus-

What did they find to be the problem with your car...I recall you posting but I dont recall what the outcome was?

[Bauer]

Well took the car in yesterday to have the front breaks replaced and to try and figure out the overboost problem. Picked it up last night and the dealer replaced the front pads as the rotors were still in spec and could not replace under warranty. The tech said the pads were toast and that each pad was worn differently. Somes pads were cracked very badly all the way through some on the edges and the the wear on each one was at a different level. He suspected that the conditions of the pads were creating a warped rotor like effect at high speed breaking.

He also could not re create the overboost problem and I have not had it come back since that one time. His thoughts were that a vacum leak or piping leak my have caused the problem. He could not find anything loose on the car but said if it happens again try and bring it in as soon as possible.

Also, last week I noticed my left side valve cover gasket leaking slightly, no real brunning smell from hitting the exhaust yet. Dealer ordered a new gasket and will put in on when they get the part.

All in all the car has been great and my "problems" have been fairly minor in my view. Will have to see how this set of pads hold up.:cheers:

[Aronis]

I am waiting for the winter to end to drive my RS 6 HARD like I drove my M3 for 5 years with 60,000 miles. I never had to do more than oil changes! Brakes were just great the day I turned the car in.

Your telling me that the HIGH performace brakes on my RS6 are not good enough for spirited driving, YIKES....

I hope yours is the only RS 6 with brake problems (sorry).

So I have been compiling a list of parts to stock up on.

Rotors
Brake Pads
Pulleys
Surpentine Belt
Special Oil

Yikes

:D

[Benman]

Bauer, glad to hear that the overboost problem has not come back. As for the breaks, it would appear that more than just your car is affected. I had cracked pads since before the Nationals. The breaks held up well during the event and the pads were replaced (just the fronts) upon my arrival back home. They have worked great with no further squeal or noise since.:cheers:

Ben:addict:
BTW, for those interested i had the dealer print up a R.O. so i would know how much $$$ i was looking at once the warranty was up. Over $700.00 for front pads:bigeyes:

[StealthSix]

I met Bauer at the Thunderhill safety driving session and we exchanged info and discussed our great time at Thunderhill. He mentioned his concern about the brakes. Less that two weeks later we are again talking about brakes. On Thursday his car is coming out of his dealer and Friday mine is going in. (different dealers 40mi apart) With one similar symptom, "pulsing brakes during light touch at highway speeds."

I have my service writer sign on to RS6.com to read the posts on rotor, pads, and fluid issues. An hour later I find out that my left front rotor is 0.06 out of spec.and that the pads are in fine shape and really don't need to be changed. Similar cars, similar driving experiences, and similar symptoms different outcome. (so far) My dealer didn't two rotors in stock (only one) so I will go back Tuesday.

Because I had been in communication with Bauer, and he informed me that this dealer had two rotors in stock, that they had expected to install on his car, my service writer put in an immediate request for them. We will see..... They know I am signed up for the driving school at Laguna Seca at the end of the week..... We will see..

Mike Allen at Sonnen Motorcars has been interested and helpful. I know he bookmarked this site and I hope I comes here and sees the overall situation.

I wonder how many dealers sold more that ten RS6's. Maybe this is the place they should keep up on problems and issues.

This site has already be helpful to me. And thanks, too, to Bauer

Terry

I'll let you know what happens Tuesday...

[quattro]

Welcome to the board StealthSix, and thanks for the compliments.

Most super saloons (M5, E55, RS6 etc.) need a brake upgrade for track use. I know for sure that mounting Movits front brakes on my A6 2.7T made a huge difference. The feeling is Porsche-like.

[Bauer]

Over $700.00 for front pads

Ben-

I was told $500 for pads and $550 for each rotor.....unless my friend(parts guy at dealer) was telling me COST:eek:

[CarbonFibre]

So do you guys have to pay for them since they're considered a "wear item"? If you track your car then you should get a big brake kit and not let your dealer touch them.

[Bauer]

Stock set up is part of the included maintence 4 yr 50K miles.

[Benman]

Originally posted by Bauer
Ben-

I was told $500 for pads and $550 for each rotor.....unless my friend(parts guy at dealer) was telling me COST:eek:
That is partly correct.

Here's the break down:

road test: $9.00
remove & install front wheels: $18.00
remove & install front brake discs: $81.00
remove & install front brake pads: $81.00
pads (actual part): $504.08
brakestop squeal $7.74
road test (again to check if fixed): $9.00

Grand total $709.82

And remember, that is the 15% discount price that they bill AOA:bigeyes:

Ben:addict:

[Aronis]

Road Test $9.00

WHAT!

That should be included with the service! They have to road test it to diagnose, and they have to road test after the repair to make sure there are not problems!

They have a hell of a nerve breaking that down, perhaps if you started the car for them and put it in drive and belted their seat belt them you could have gotten that $9.00 down to $5.00.

Hell, they should pay YOU to let them drive your car! LOL

[StealthSix]

Mike (from Sonnen San Rafael) calls this morning with the news that the rotors are ten days out in Germany. They have one rotor and pads. says that it is not good to change one side. The other dealer that Bauer went to would not show that they had any rotors in stock. (kept them out of inventory or used them quickly)

Mike is going to call (have his manager call) Concord, to again request the rotors not used on Bauers RS6.

I asked Mike what I could do to help him and he said that maybe I could call my guy (bauer) and get the service writer to release the parts to inventory.

As I was typing this my salesman called and asked how things were going. I clued him in on the above and he is also going to try to get them released.

I told him I was willing to go to concord to get the work done. whatever gets me to Laguna Seca on friday.

Darn as I was typing the above and :bow: Bauer called back and he is on the case, too.

Lets see what works; the service dept. the sales dept., or the RS6com network.

[StealthSix]

well, Bauer broke thru and got to the parts guy to release the part to my dealer....
Mike at Sonnen jumped right on it, but it turned out the they (Concord) only had a right rotor the same as Sonnen. Thus still no good answer.
Next question - What will arrrive in the parts shipment tomorrow morning at Sonnen? Mike says that he can't tell when it will arrive, and that all he can do is request and pay FedEx shipping.

[Bauer]

What the hell....is the supplier for the rotors only making the right side ones??? That seems very strange to me....sorry I could not be of anymore help....good luck and here is to speedy parts for your RS6.:cheers:

One other thought......the left side rotor may still be on the way to Concord for my car (which it does not need)....I will call my friend and tell him to call me if it comes it.

[StealthSix]

Looks like John Hulbrock is in same pot.:confused:
He's from NJ, maybe he can get parts faster.
Let see if his solution is pads or rotors.

Terry

Bauer thanks again

[nene]

Did you guys use your own car at the safety session in Thunderhill?
In all honesty, what do you guys thing might have caused the pads to wear out in such a manner?

Surprised that it has not happened to many others, such as myself, with 9K miles on the odometer. I don't drive the RS6 like Sunday driver, but nonetheless, it could be that your brake pads were not properly installed, or just bad pads.

Were both sides of the front bad with the pads? Both sides got replaced?

[Bauer]

Nene-

Terry (dark night) and myself did use our RS6's at the Thunderhill Saftey seminar, I also used my car at the Audi Nationals Saftey Seminar.

Like I stated previously, Randy Pobst took my car out for a few laps and the Nationals....after that the breaks really started making noise. I took the car to the Tech and said the pads had hair line cracks in them. I told him that I was going to Thunderhill and that I would not have time to properly seat the new pads so I waited untill after Thunder hill.

My front pads were totally wasted and both sides were replaced. The cause, I believe is that the break a fine for everyday driving but get the 4100lbs out on a fast track with lots of heavy breaking and the pads and fluid cant handle it. Audi should have at a min used break fluid with a higher boiling point...you can notice it in the pedal feel after a few laps. I think going to a different pad would be difficult because of the noise they would produce. I think my biggest complaint is the lack of cooling for the breaks....the intercoolers vent INTO the wheel well. So you get only hot air pushed into the well. I think Audi should have vented the breaks better with some piping from the front of the car. I think the lack of venting is a major contributor to some of the break problems. I was getting about 530 to 550 in temp on the front breaks after a few laps.:cheers:

[Kiwi RS6]

Hi,

As an aside, my A6 4.2 had the same symptom, "pulsing brakes during light touch at most speeds."

I'm unsure what the problem was because I swapped it for my RS6.

To date, I've not experienced anything similar on my RS6.