904865

[Styhl]

I have it! drove my 904865 back from Arizona its Imola Yellow and I'll attach the paint code sticker but its inconclusive, but I know why! it was custom ordered with is color combinations from Audi originally. I'll have some more pics up soon and I even have nearly all my drive back recorded most of it is at night tho, but I did think a group of Deer were gonnna ruin my night thank god they didn't! 15182

[MaxRS6]

^Congrats & Welcome aboard the

http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz195/MaxRS6/Ozzy%20at%20Emerald/CrazyTrainPoster1.jpg?

I hear ya about those deer. Going through areas of AR can also be quite exciting in the evenings with those car stops with attached antlers along the hwy.

[mik15]

waiting for the pictures...this is one of probably only a few around the world...i bet it looks nice. Congrats and welcome aboard the Crazy Train :) .

[Styhl]

Sorry direct from my phone they are too big I'll get em edited down and posted soon. However here's my Facebook https://www.facebook.com/Styhls you can see a few pics there and how fat I am :(

[LIRS6]

Does the giraffe fit thru the sunroof?

Enjoy!

[DHall1]

Cant see
Will not sign up for facebook

[Styhl]

15185here she is.

[lswing]

Welcome! Great looking ride. Wagner IC's with foglight delete looks like, good score!

[Styhl]

Yes, Wagner ic, stasis clovr, revo tune with switchable mode - idk how aggressive the map is so I put it in stock mode for my drive back, mtm tcu, new tq conv unsure if aftermarket, 105k timing done and maint, have a slight fuel leak from top of tank but I ordered a seal for it already- no leak if tank not full and 115f outside

[DHall1]

There is a recall. Search gas tank

I wish i could have seen her in person. You were in and out too fast

There
Yes, Wagner ic, stasis clovr, revo tune with switchable mode - idk how aggressive the map is so I put it in stock mode for my drive back, mtm tcu, new tq conv unsure if aftermarket, 105k timing done and maint, have a slight fuel leak from top of tank but I ordered a seal for it already- no leak if tank not full and 115f outside

[DHall1]

Makes me think back 30 years. I almost bought a 70 442 W30 in the yellow with black stripes. Friggin wicked color combo.....sleeper status was null.

[Styhl]

Ya sorry D, I was actually there 4 hours longer than I wanted to be the dealership was an abysmal failure, they had no interdepartmental communication. Probably my worst customer service experience ever.

[Styhl]

If anyone has parts I need a new Hood release possibly, the pull tab in the grill can withdrawal back to far and fall out of the receiving square in the grill. Im not sure if the pull tab is too short or part of the port it passes through is missing from the grill. Audi helped me wire a temporary fix up for now. Oh FYI the Audi dealership in n Scottsdale was super nice! At least on the service end. I took it there to have it given a good once over, they gave me a copy of service history they had on it, couldn't be happier with my short hour there. This is not the same place it was traded into. Just to be clear I bought it from AutoNation Subaru.

[lswing]

Yes, Wagner ic, stasis clovr, revo tune with switchable mode - idk how aggressive the map is so I put it in stock mode for my drive back, mtm tcu, new tq conv unsure if aftermarket, 105k timing done and maint, have a slight fuel leak from top of tank but I ordered a seal for it already- no leak if tank not full and 115f outside

Excellent. Revo runs lean once you increase the boost and timing so don't go too far. I'm running 3 boost and 5 timing according to the SPS tool. Puts me around 15psi, and a good bit more timing. If you get the Ross Tech software, which you should, I can get you some software to piggyback onto the Revo to add fuel, world of difference. I'm adding 25% more fuel than stock, makes very good safe power.

Note; I've heard that once you lower boost with SPS only a Revo shop can raise it back up. Will confirm next week, one more thing to test...

And if your fuel isn't the best Aces IV additive can help, or/and add on a water meth kit.

[Styhl]

Excellent. Revo runs lean once you increase the boost and timing so don't go too far.
If I put it back in stock mode for now its fine, right?

Also I noticed the car downshifts to keep the rpms around 1900 when I'm coasting to a stop, I'm guessing this is normal because of the turbos? My n/a car won't downshift coasting as soon it just tries to keep it off idle.

[NSU RS6]

If I put it back in stock mode for now its fine, right?

Also I noticed the car downshifts to keep the rpms around 1900 when I'm coasting to a stop, I'm guessing this is normal because of the turbos? My n/a car won't downshift coasting as soon it just tries to keep it off idle.

Probably the MTM TCU, which, from what I have heard, is a must mod.

Nice car. You will be the talk of the donut shop in that color.........

[lswing]

If I put it back in stock mode for now its fine, right?

Also I noticed the car downshifts to keep the rpms around 1900 when I'm coasting to a stop, I'm guessing this is normal because of the turbos? My n/a car won't downshift coasting as soon it just tries to keep it off idle.

Stock should be stock, so you are fine. Even running boost at 1 or 2 would be fine I think, add some timing 1-3. It's when you get to 3+ that things start to lean out.

I'll have to see what my rpm's are on the downshift to a stop, always been really smooth so never noticed them at 1,900 or so.

[Styhl]

I'll have to see what my rpm's are on the downshift to a stop, always been really smooth so never noticed them at 1,900 or so.

i watched it on my lunch drive today and its when it gets down to 1k it downshifts and goes back to 2, i think its just the torque and i've not had a real car to know what it feels like. seems like its trying to keep the power available if i need it, do these transmissions use the fuzzy logic thats on other VW group cars? my passat tiptronic "learns" my driving style? My C/E light is so i'm gonna have to try and pin that down hopefully its something simple and not o2 sensors.

[lswing]

Get the Ross-Tech VAGCOM software if you can, makes a world of difference in diagnosing issues.

You might be feeling the Torque Converter disengaging, it feels like a shift. If you drive around in Tip so you can see the numbers on the dash you'll know. Took me a while to get a feel for it....

[Styhl]

ya i'll get a ross tech as soon as i can i've called them and made sure i know which one to get, i'm considering picking up a windows tablet so i can run logs w/o having to break out my laptop in the car. they told me it runs fine on windows 8. which my laptop has anyways.

[Styhl]

Got a bit of free time so I took my car to chk on my c/e light, a couple o2 sensors are basically dead. They weren't giving any reading at idle or under revs from park. I known I read that the subframe can be dropped and the engine be lowered a bit to make them all excessable. Could someone tell me where they all are or point me to a thread with pictures possibly? And how much lowering of the engine are we talking? 3inches? What all should be disconnected to create enough slack to do this? The car runs fine but I'm betting these all help my mpg and rich/lean control

TIA

Ryan

[DHall1]

Which O2 sensors? You have 4

Who checked this? Codes? You need a full vag scan not a Autozone special before tearing into this one.

Engine pull is best. But its a big job not to be done by a rookie.


Got a bit of free time so I took my car to chk on my c/e light, a couple o2 sensors are basically dead. They weren't giving any reading at idle or under revs from park. I known I read that the subframe can be dropped and the engine be lowered a bit to make them all excessable. Could someone tell me where they all are or point me to a thread with pictures possibly? And how much lowering of the engine are we talking? 3inches? What all should be disconnected to create enough slack to do this? The car runs fine but I'm betting these all help my mpg and rich/lean control

TIA

Ryan

[Styhl]

Bank 1 upstream wasn't registering movement at all it would show like 0-1.2% or even -0.8% at idle. where the others were showing 99.2% bank 2 downstream was similarly non responsive, but
Let me review the audio from my dash cam I'll give ya what he said, he did reset it and it drove without a c/e light for a good while but I put my foot down a bit getting on highway and it came on again. Haven't got a vagcom yet he had one on loan but it was reclaimed, I'll get one soon and before we tackle this I'm sure.

[Styhl]

This is what I could hear in my audio sample,
catalyst fuel trim system to lean bank 1
Warmup catalyst downstream 1, upstream 2
Bank1 sensor 1 showed no fluxuation
Bank2 sensor showed very little fluxuation
Short term fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1

We turned my Revo map back on to see if it fixed the problem, I had it of due to bad tires on front, all sensors started to show movement tho b1s1 was still way down comparatively.

[DHall1]

Need the codes

Need to see data log

3, 31, 115 in turbo mode after you reset ecu. 3rd gear pull from 3000 to redline. Then driving steady at 65mph

[Styhl]

Just to keep all my personal car things in one place, I'm having an alternator issue, I asked about a solar panel adaption to charging, on a different thread. The real problem is my alternator or volt regulator is Kaput, my voltage charge indicator shows me getting 11volts at best off the dash, if I get the car under an engine braking load or peak hp it comes up to almost turning the batt light off.

Last night I started the car and my auto ac engaged at startup and made a screech, so I turned off the ac and turned it back on. Earlier in the day it kicked it out of ac into econ mode a couple of times right before i parked the car(engine at idle) it was about 100deg outside. That night when i went to drive home from my friends on startup everything was normal but i noticed my batt light on the dash was on and my charging point was at 11v,

So thinking through the chain of events I think on my startup when the belt screeched it lugged the alternator bearing lose and the little bit of driving I did to get dinner and back freed it the rest of the way up, there is no rattle under the hood, the car drives normal but i'm only pulling down 11v. does anyone think it might be something other than an alternator bearing from the above scenario?

My thoughts to fix is buy one from like autozone 185 +80 core, eat the core cost and rebuild my OE one.

[Styhl]

K so, the previous owner wired up an aftermarket bluetooth, sadly they hard wired it w/o a fuse to a lead in the fuse box, and grounded it near it as well, i'm hoping that removing this fixes my voltage problem, and it hasn't caused damage to my alternator or voltage regulator.

[ben916]

My thoughts to fix is buy one from like autozone 185 +80 core, eat the core cost and rebuild my OE one.

IIRC, you will not be able to locate an alternator at Autozone, but you will either have to purchase a new one or a rebuilt one or rebuild it yourself. Another tricky nuisance of the RS6.

[Styhl]

autozone has a duralast lifetime warranty one. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Import-Alternator/2003-Audi-RS6-Quattro/_/N-jlcqxZ9ci9i?itemIdentifier=973429_23521_1752_

Part Number: 15539

[Styhl]

So, my next project after alternator fix, I think needs to be brakes, I was looking for recent posts for Something along this line and didn't find anything this decade, previous owner put on redpads and I know it has phaeton cooling kit, I didn't know what rotor I should go with. I'll have to check what it currently has, I saw the OE pads are only good to 40% before they start teething on the rotors. Looks like were paying about $1500 for new pads and rotors all 4 corners. Does this sound normal?

[Styhl]

So I have a slight fuel leak I had my mechanic call Audi dealer in OKC, this is second hand from Audi to my mech to me ,but when they put in my VIN they service computer gave them all kinds of notices no one had ever seen for preferred service contact Germany 1 of 3 etc. So I thought it was neat more or less confirms what we thought not 100% but if I take it there for service I'll see if I can get more history. Wish me luck on the fuel issue in the mean time.

[nistah]

Looks like were paying about $1500 for new pads and rotors all 4 corners. Does this sound normal? Rotors can be had for approx $300 a corner or slightly less, check www.partsgeek.com EBC yellow pads (stay away from the reds) are $230 F&R so your yea your looking at $1430. If anyone else has a better option I would be interested to hear as I need new rotors and pads soon also

[Styhl]

I joined the Audi owner club of north america, I reckon way up here in Amarillo I'm one of very few lone star chapter members.

[Styhl]

Some scratched her gonna take it to try and get buffed out later this week/early next.

[Dmb408]

What about your alternator and O2's did you get that solved?

[Styhl]

Alternator yes, I'm going to get my OE one rebuilt and I have a duralast one from Autozone on and working like a champ. O2 sensor not yet. Car's not having any driving issues with it; no temp issues, fuel consumption as expected. I did a 5k oil change and now am using Schaeffer oil and have a cooler and slightly better efficiency.