Milka Build thread

[milka]

As a few people have asked for this, I am going to do a mini build thread on here. Please if you have any questions or want to see and modifications let me know and I will post pics, measurements, logs, etc. My full build thread is here http://www.ozaudi.com/forums/a6-s6-rs6-allroad/20790-milkas-rs6-build-thread-6.html

So the car started as a 2003 built MY2004 Aus delivered RS6, came with 19' 5 spokes, recaro interior, matt black interior handles etc, carbon trim, etc.

My current mod list is something close to this: (I will modify as I remember more)
Hotchkis sways
KW v3 Coilovers
Adjustable front upper control arms
B7 RS4 wheels 265/35/19 Toyo Proxes T1S
Alcon front brakes, RS6 Plus rear rotors
Stainless lines brake lines all round
Twin GTX3071 Turbos, Twin scroll .82 housings
Tial MV-S external wastegates set to 13 psi base pressure
Custom exhaust manifold, Twin scroll with single Tial per bank
Milltek Exhaust with cats and resonators
Custom 3' dump joined into Milltek cats
Twin LC-1 wideband 02s
Twin BMC OTA Carbon airfilters
Twin A8 MAFs
Custom intake piping joining the stock air intakes into BMC OTAs then A8 MAFs then into enlarged Y at back of engine
Re-core'd RS6 intercoolers with Garrett 4.25' thick cores
Removed additional radiators
Weldon fuel pressure regulator
Integrated engineering billet 1.8T rails modified to fit RS6
-8 teflon fuel lines with speedflow fittings
Bosch EV14 980cc injectors
Phenolic Spacers 1.8T port matched to RS6 heads/manifolds
0A3 B7 RS4 gearbox
Custom 6mm gearbox spacer
Modified TDI 6th gear
B7 RS4 clutch slave
A6 manual Clutch master
A6 manual clutch pedal/brake pedal
ClutchMasters FX850 Twin Plate clutch
custom front half shafts (using existing stock RS6 CVs)
custom gearbox mount brackets
modified tail shaft
modified oil cooler to be just engine oil no gearbox
shifter from B5 S4
W8 ABS controller
Catch Can with baffles (removed SAI and replaced with catch can)
Wavetrac LSD
Self Tuned via TunerPro with the assistance of PRJ ;-)

Currently working on:
Twin Walbro 416 E85 intank pumps (with option of going to Radium external surge tank if needed but trying to avoid this)
E85 Conversion
Tilton Carbon/Carbon Triple Plate Clutch
B7 RS4 shifter
R8 Rims /w 255/35/19 fronts and 295/30/19 rears

Spare engine being worked on (aiming to run >30psi)
Heads fully built and ready to rev over 8500 (I will set red line to 8000)
Pauter rods
Need to figure out Pistons/rings for spare blocks
(If anyone knows a company that has done Alusil pistons/rings before please let me know, second option will be to sleave the block)

[milka]

Car prior to pulling apart for the manual conversion and big turbos, external gates, etc

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Engine mated to B7 RS4 gearbox

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Comparing the GTX3071s to stock RS6 turbos

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[milka]

Manifolds being fabricated

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Test fitting on engine
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Test fitting clearances in the engine bay
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[milka]

Checking Flywheel vs flex plate alignment of the tone ring
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Now test fitting exhaust manifolds with turbos attached and wastegates attached.

14992

[milka]

Fabricating the dump pipes and wastegate piping
14993

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Full length showing shifter fitted and dump pipes fabricated into existing Milltek downpipes/cats
14995

Passenger turbo from the side (yes yes I'm in Australia ;-) )
1499614997
A little bit of customization needed to make the wastegate dump fit past the shift rods. Everything was very tight!
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[4everRS]

Sounds like quite a job.

In this forum I think you only have a couple hours to edit a post. After that you can't edit or add pics.

Edit: I see pics are coming.

[Sasha00311]

Subscribed

[milka]

Sounds like quite a job.

In this forum I think you only have a couple hours to edit a post. After that you can't edit or add pics.

Edit: I see pics are coming.

Thanks for letting me know, I just filled the posts with some pics that will show how big everything is, and how little room there is to put the larger turbos in..... It does fit just!

[alrightroad]

Looks like a great build. how was the B7 trans mate complication? Straight forward with a custom plate?

[lswing]

Wonderful fabrication work and photos, thanks for sharing!:cheers:

[nubcake]

Thank you. :)

[MaxRS6]

Wowza- +1- Thanks for sharing your work product!

[ben916]

Nice work and ambitious project!!!

Are you planning on ceramic coating of the manifold and piping?
Probably will help keep some of the heat down.

[milka]

Nice work and ambitious project!!!

Are you planning on ceramic coating of the manifold and piping?
Probably will help keep some of the heat down.


Nice thinking ;-) , this was all about 1 1/2 years ago at this point, I'm just catch up posting pics so people can see what was done

[milka]

FX850 clutch

15000

15001
Individual pieces laid out
15002
Test fitting on the engine
15003
Attaching tone ring in the right orientation, also had to machine a channel behind the tone ring as there was not one when it arrived, fine for Alu but not good for Steel
15004

[milka]

Clutch hit the gearbox when first fitted...... :-(
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15006
Spacer for the crank angle sensor
15007
Fabricators comments about the flywheel pre getting it machined to fit.
15008
Pic of the channel that was cut behind the tone ring to get clean readings
15009

[milka]

Modifying the Intake MAF pipe, this was modified to accept R32/B5 S4 MAFs but also the tiny diameter to the turbos was enlarged to nearly twice the diameter. And then Coated

15011
Downpipes finished and ceramic coated
15010
Other components coated and nearly ready to put back in, after a little cleaning up of the ports
15012
Tailshaft length modified, rebalanced and ready to go
15013
B7 RS4 starter motor vs stock RS6 on the left
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Starting to put titanium heat wrap on exhaust manifolds
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[milka]

Manifold wrapped and test fitted
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Some custom fittings machined up to get all the dash fittings to connect to engine, clutch, etc
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New machined connection to the clutch slave, still uses the stock plastic fitting but allows dash teflon lines to be used, also created a dash fitting on the bleed for a remote bleed in the top of the engine bay, no need to get under the car to bleed the clutch!
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[milka]

Here are the turbo manifolds/turbos mounted on the engine ready for everything else to be installed
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Wastegates tight positioning, including water cooling
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All the lines being connected water/oil to turbos, wastegates and clutch lines
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[JSRS6]

Im in love....

[RAUDI]

That is glorious. I have driven exactly 6.7 miles in mine with no additional power adders and it is a completely different car. (better) Yours is going to be unbelievable.

[JSRS6]

Test drive this weekend?

[RAUDI]

Test drive this weekend?

If that was for me then I definitely hope so. Trip to Doumar's Drive-In with the 6's would be great.

[milka]

Im in love....

Thanks mate, hope you are talking about the car.... ;-) More fun pics to follow

[milka]

Original front half shafts pulled apart and cleaning up
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New billet custom shafts compared to original
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Assembling the joints onto the new shafts
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[milka]

Everything ready, bolted together and about to be put back into the car

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[milka]

LC-1s wired up and all ready to be put into the car including capacitors to smooth out the voltage, the outputs from these are then wired into the deleted rear 02s so that ME7Logger can then log true wideband 02s along with all the other ME7 variables (~70-80 variables at 15-20 times per second). Then use ECUxPLOT and Excel to view the logged data

15047

[JSRS6]

I wish. I'm flying.


If that was for me then I definitely hope so. Trip to Doumar's Drive-In with the 6's would be great.

[JSRS6]

Of course, lol. I'm taken. Similar ideas for my build in the future.
Thanks mate, hope you are talking about the car.... ;-) More fun pics to follow

[DNB01A64.2]

This really made me shed some tears of joy......in front of my gf too lol. I've always thought about twin scroll technology on this engine but my conflict was with the wastegate. Does it operate the same as 2 wastegates on a 4 cylinder such as all the heavily modified 4g63 engines? BTW, thank you for posting this here. I always got mad when I seen this on OZ and couldn't see the pics lol.

[milka]

This really made me shed some tears of joy......in front of my gf too lol. I've always thought about twin scroll technology on this engine but my conflict was with the wastegate. Does it operate the same as 2 wastegates on a 4 cylinder such as all the heavily modified 4g63 engines? BTW, thank you for posting this here. I always got mad when I seen this on OZ and couldn't see the pics lol.

Yeah that's what I was hoping to do, but there is just not enough space in there to put 4 wastegates, 2 per bank. It's not as perfect as a true twin scroll but from everything I have read it is still better than single scroll. If I could have gotten 4 gates in I would have.

[milka]

I always got mad when I seen this on OZ and couldn't see the pics lol.

Oh, why didn't you just register and then you could see everything?

[Other_Erik]

Milka

Awesome build thread, loving (almost) every bit of what you've done here. If you don't mind me asking, what do you have sunk into this build? PM if you don't want it public info, I'm looking at doing something similar (not _as_ extreme) when the time comes for major service around 150k miles, and I just hit 128k pulling into the parking lot for work this morning...

My mod plan:
--To-Do--
Rebuild/replace turbos, stock size hoping for a little better compression / less lag - lag is the only reason I wouldn't go to a larger compressor, I know building more boost makes more power, but waiting for that boost is why I'd never gone turbo on other cars...
Engine out // teardown replacing every leaky OEM seal and tired electronics (EGT's, etc...)
Wagner IC's, keeping my fog lights but dremeling down the fog housing to get maximum airflow inbound
High temp ceramic coating turbos, headers, exhaust back to the cats (gut precats)
Titanium full wrap headers back to the cats, turbo blankets to keep my snails nice and toasty
Cams and cranks balanced and blueprinted for stock lope efficiency
Full-Ti valves/springs/seats/locks - not that the stock ones don't work, but I plan to get 20+ years out of this car, and want to do it right the first time

Misc. lines and tubing replaced as available with -AN and/or flexsteel - the less rubber I've got in the engine compartment the better

--Hopefully won't need, but if needed --
A.C.E. hardened Torque Converter
Tozo rebuilt // hardened parts transmission - doubt I'll need this since previous owner got replacement under warranty at 97,xxx miles around 2010


What kind of engine bay modification did you have to do to fit the larger starter motor, larger turbos/headers? I know even being a scrawny dude my knuckles hurt just thinking about trying to reach into the engine bay with everything stock - there isn't room to put a magnetic pickup tool to try rescuing a locking nut I dropped way back when...

O_E

[DNB01A64.2]

Oh, why didn't you just register and then you could see everything?

I did, but the site has rules that if it notices people with an ip address outside of Australia, it terminates the account or something to that effect.

[SteveKen]

I did, but the site has rules that if it notices people with an ip address outside of Australia, it terminates the account or something to that effect.

Hmm. I subscribed to the OZ build thread a long time ago (after Milka's nefmoto post) and never had any issues.

[SteveKen]

Also, I can't recall if you mentioned it, but what are you doing for ECU tuning?

[nubcake]

I tried to register a couple of times but my account was deactivated every time.

[milka]

Milka

Awesome build thread, loving (almost) every bit of what you've done here. If you don't mind me asking, what do you have sunk into this build? PM if you don't want it public info, I'm looking at doing something similar (not _as_ extreme) when the time comes for major service around 150k miles, and I just hit 128k pulling into the parking lot for work this morning...

My mod plan:
--To-Do--
Rebuild/replace turbos, stock size hoping for a little better compression / less lag - lag is the only reason I wouldn't go to a larger compressor, I know building more boost makes more power, but waiting for that boost is why I'd never gone turbo on other cars...
Engine out // teardown replacing every leaky OEM seal and tired electronics (EGT's, etc...)
Wagner IC's, keeping my fog lights but dremeling down the fog housing to get maximum airflow inbound
High temp ceramic coating turbos, headers, exhaust back to the cats (gut precats)
Titanium full wrap headers back to the cats, turbo blankets to keep my snails nice and toasty
Cams and cranks balanced and blueprinted for stock lope efficiency
Full-Ti valves/springs/seats/locks - not that the stock ones don't work, but I plan to get 20+ years out of this car, and want to do it right the first time

Misc. lines and tubing replaced as available with -AN and/or flexsteel - the less rubber I've got in the engine compartment the better

--Hopefully won't need, but if needed --
A.C.E. hardened Torque Converter
Tozo rebuilt // hardened parts transmission - doubt I'll need this since previous owner got replacement under warranty at 97,xxx miles around 2010


What kind of engine bay modification did you have to do to fit the larger starter motor, larger turbos/headers? I know even being a scrawny dude my knuckles hurt just thinking about trying to reach into the engine bay with everything stock - there isn't room to put a magnetic pickup tool to try rescuing a locking nut I dropped way back when...

O_E


The larger starter is the RS6 starter, I'm using the smaller B7 RS4 starter as it mates to the gearbox I'm using and the starter ring on the flywheel.

No real engine bay mods as when you remove the Auto and put the manual in place you make a lot of additional room for the larger turbos/headers. I'm not sure how you would fit larger housings with the auto still in place.

[milka]

Also, I can't recall if you mentioned it, but what are you doing for ECU tuning?

Just using TunerPro with some assistance from one of the Nefmoto guys

[milka]

Originally started with the RS6 MAFs but they maxed out at 15psi through the GTX30s. Hence I modified the stock airbox and mounting to accept B5 S4/R32 MAFs. These only added a little bit of extra air and anything around 17psi maxed out the R32 MAFs/sensors. So then went to the following setup with B5 RS4 MAFs. This is the home built intake, I have since added some brackets to hold things in place and painted the silver/grey intake ducts to Matt Black.
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This is what it looked like mocked up at home.
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I then had some slight variations in the airflow so decided to change over to the A8 MAFs which are exactly the same as the B5 RS4 except they have flow straighteners on them. A8 MAF on the left.
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[Other_Erik]

The larger starter is the RS6 starter, I'm using the smaller B7 RS4 starter as it mates to the gearbox I'm using and the starter ring on the flywheel.

No real engine bay mods as when you remove the Auto and put the manual in place you make a lot of additional room for the larger turbos/headers. I'm not sure how you would fit larger housings with the auto still in place.

Heh, good thing I don't plan on going manual, then. Living in the DC area makes stickshift a non-starter for me. Like I said, I love just about everything about your build, that trans swap tho, freakin' kills me...

Also, what's up with the multicolor puzzle pieces? Just a cheap way to foam out the garage floor? I can understand that, but did you not have a choice of color(s)?

Those custom intakes are pretty wicked, but the engine bay just doesn't look right without the top engine cover for me. Maybe mock something up to sit between them and over top of the engine? Not enough CF!

Happy build, hope it makes your beast everything you've ever wanted it to be!

O_E

[milka]

Heh, good thing I don't plan on going manual, then. Living in the DC area makes stickshift a non-starter for me. Like I said, I love just about everything about your build, that trans swap tho, freakin' kills me...

Also, what's up with the multicolor puzzle pieces? Just a cheap way to foam out the garage floor? I can understand that, but did you not have a choice of color(s)?

Those custom intakes are pretty wicked, but the engine bay just doesn't look right without the top engine cover for me. Maybe mock something up to sit between them and over top of the engine? Not enough CF!

Happy build, hope it makes your beast everything you've ever wanted it to be!

O_E

LOL, that's sooo funny, I never thought anyone might think that's my garage, but now I can sort of understand why.... That's my lounge room and they tiles are for my son, so he does not hit his head etc on the wooden floor boards. That intake works great have been driving it for months with great results, that dyno was also done with that setup too.

In the process of painting the intake manifold Matt Black, I may yet make a custom CF cover but looks is not my first concern. I'm trying to create the ultimate sleeper, stock looks on the outside, fully legal and hammers ;-)

[Other_Erik]

Saw in your original post you're running 265/35-19's, doesn't that throw the speedo off a bit, or you using reluctor wheels? I'm trying to go wide for my summer wheels/tires setup, thinking about going stock fronts 255/40-18 and going 295/35-18 in the rear, but worried about losing the bead running 11.5" wide tires on a 8" wide rim... At your power level, are you experiencing any loss of traction under hard acceleration? If not, then I have a long time before I have to worry about going wider in the rear, can save myself a couple hundred bucks on the next set of tires...

O_E

[JSRS6]

Ok, so the mafs right after the filter are the active ones then? I'm guessing the ones that go into the inlet tubing are there just to simplify mounting rather than make a mount?

[ben916]

Ok, so the mafs right after the filter are the active ones then? I'm guessing the ones that go into the inlet tubing are there just to simplify mounting rather than make a mount?

Good catch! I didn't see the extra set.

[JSRS6]

The guy is smart. I think he needs to patriate to the us and open up a shop :-)

[MaxRS6]

Originally started with the RS6 MAFs but they maxed out at 15psi through the GTX30s. Hence I modified the stock airbox and mounting to accept B5 S4/R32 MAFs. These only added a little bit of extra air and anything around 17psi maxed out the R32 MAFs/sensors. So then went to the following setup with B5 RS4 MAFs. This is the home built intake, I have since added some brackets to hold things in place and painted the silver/grey intake ducts to Matt Black.
15073
This is what it looked like mocked up at home.
15074
15075
I then had some slight variations in the airflow so decided to change over to the A8 MAFs which are exactly the same as the B5 RS4 except they have flow straighteners on them. A8 MAF on the left.
15076
15077


Yeah- that is what I would have done..;0

[milka]

Saw in your original post you're running 265/35-19's, doesn't that throw the speedo off a bit, or you using reluctor wheels? I'm trying to go wide for my summer wheels/tires setup, thinking about going stock fronts 255/40-18 and going 295/35-18 in the rear, but worried about losing the bead running 11.5" wide tires on a 8" wide rim... At your power level, are you experiencing any loss of traction under hard acceleration? If not, then I have a long time before I have to worry about going wider in the rear, can save myself a couple hundred bucks on the next set of tires...

O_E

Yeah it will change the speedo a touch, but it actually changes it so that it is spot on as the speed normally reads a little low from factory.

I would not be running 295s on an 8' rim, hence why I'm looking at running R8 Rims with 255/35/19s front and 295/30/19s rear.

I am getting a little traction loss but that's the reason I am looking at the R8 rims (I have 40:60 and up to 20:80 torque split). This is also why I have installed an LSD in the front diff.

On Stock position/size/turbos and Auto I would not run staggered but rather get the best set of 265 or 275 sticky rubber you can afford.

[milka]

Ok, so the mafs right after the filter are the active ones then? I'm guessing the ones that go into the inlet tubing are there just to simplify mounting rather than make a mount?

Yep, exactly what I did. The MAFs that sit in the original position are S4/R32 units with the sensors cut and the inside of the pipe smoothed out. they are also positioned such that I can bolt a bracket down to hold them in place. Also the y-pipe Pipe at the back of the engine has been opened up to nearly twice the diameter as that is a bottle neck with a larger turbo mouth (same sort of dia as the RS6 turbo inlet)

I'll be in Vegas 11th-16th April, but only for work not moving over there, yet.... ;-) Would be heaps easier for me too as most things here have to come from the US anyway.

[Beardown1]

That intake is great! I was just under the hood last night using dryer vent to mock up something similar. I have saved your pics for reference. Thanks for sharing.

[JSRS6]

Yep, exactly what I did. The MAFs that sit in the original position are S4/R32 units with the sensors cut and the inside of the pipe smoothed out. they are also positioned such that I can bolt a bracket down to hold them in place. Also the y-pipe Pipe at the back of the engine has been opened up to nearly twice the diameter as that is a bottle neck with a larger turbo mouth (same sort of dia as the RS6 turbo inlet)

I'll be in Vegas 11th-16th April, but only for work not moving over there, yet.... ;-) Would be heaps easier for me too as most things here have to come from the US anyway.

I'm sure there are some guys in that neck of the woods who would love to talk shop and buy you a beer. Wish I could. As the kids nowadays would say, "Mad props on that build, Yo!"

[milka]

That intake is great! I was just under the hood last night using dryer vent to mock up something similar. I have saved your pics for reference. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks mate, when I first tested it I actually used PVC pipe, even drove it for 30 mins like that.

[DNB01A64.2]

Any progress????

[Fastguy]

Just using TunerPro with some assistance from one of the Nefmoto guys

Would you happen to have an xdf for the rs6 ecu? I can't find one anywhere and have yet to successfully change an .ori to xdf with the Java tools provided on the forum

[nubcake]

Would you happen to have an xdf for the rs6 ecu? I can't find one anywhere and have yet to successfully change an .ori to xdf with the Java tools provided on the forum

You probably won't get a reply from him, he's AWOL for a year or so. But you can try poking around @ nefmoto: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?board=30.0

[Fastguy]

You probably won't get a reply from him, he's AWOL for a year or so. But you can try poking around @ nefmoto: http://nefariousmotorsports.com/forum/index.php?board=30.0

That's actually where I began. I couldn't find any complete xdf. Judeinobscuro (close enough) started the conversion to xdf but there were only two variables in his file. I don't want to spend the money on the winols

[milka]

Hey hey kids, what's happening? Sorry i have really not been online much at all, way too busy with work but I should be online a little bit more now.

[Aronis]

Fantastic!.....

That is amazing what you are doing......

Mike

[milka]

Thanks, haven't done much lately but she has been going great in the mean time. There are plans around tuning, E85 and a built engine, then try and smash 30psi into her


Fantastic!.....

That is amazing what you are doing......

Mike

[GreggPDX]

Thanks, haven't done much lately but she has been going great in the mean time. There are plans around tuning, E85 and a built engine, then try and smash 30psi into her

What engine work are you thinking about? new rods or more than that? Working on these Alusil blocks scares me :)

[milka]

At the moment heads are fully built, have Pauter rods ready to go in, but still need to figure out exactly what to do for the Pistons/rings for that exact reason! Alusil.... Been talking to a Porsche specialist, haven't decided yet



What engine work are you thinking about? new rods or more than that? Working on these Alusil blocks scares me :)

[IM954]

Nils - I sent one of my blocks to Millennium Technologies to have them Nikasil coat it and then had custom pistons made by CP Carrillo. the block was slightly overboard to 85 from stock of 84.5, resulting in displacement going from 4172 cubic CM to 4222 cubic CM (not a big deal). Then had CP Carrillo design new pistons that lowered compression to 9.0:1 form stock 9.8:1. Doing the Nikasil coating process enables me to never have to worry about any special compatibility coating issues with Alusil (namely pistons and rings). CP Carrillo also provided custom rings and wrist pins as well. Rods were supplied by Integrated Engineering.

[IM954]

Nils - You'll really need to stretch your rear fenders to fit the rear R8 wheels. We looked at doing and passed. I'm currently running 4 front R8 wheels not the car

[IM954]

Nils - Did you need to modify the transmission tunnel once you bolted up the twin Garrett setup? Only asking cause I’m having Tial build me some XR7164's that are about the same dimension, maybe two inches longer as my setup will be internally wastegated. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

[IM954]

Nils - What's the part number on the BMC OTA's you used?

[milka]

Are you sticking to Auto to going to manual? If you are sticking to Auto I don't think you will have a chance. With a manual you should be able to but i will be a damn tight fit, esp if yours are 2 in longer... Like I said in my PM I have pretty much 10mm space in most places becuase I just couldn't get anymore.


Nils - Did you need to modify the transmission tunnel once you bolted up the twin Garrett setup? Only asking cause I’m having Tial build me some XR7164's that are about the same dimension, maybe two inches longer as my setup will be internally wastegated. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

[milka]

Let me check the OTA part number, but I think it's ACOTA70/85L200-B will confirm tonight for you.

[milka]

I was worried about the weight of the car for the R8 wheels (especially the front wheels), hence I have the wheels at home, but nothing has been done with them yet....

[milka]

Shame you are in the US, I can't justify sending my block to the US... Also was not sure about Nikasil coating as I had heard some reports about the coating coming off, hence the reason they chose Alusil, but I need to find something local here to do something anyway, who ordered the pistons for you?

[IM954]

Are you sticking to Auto to going to manual? If you are sticking to Auto I don't think you will have a chance. With a manual you should be able to but i will be a damn tight fit, esp if yours are 2 in longer... Like I said in my PM I have pretty much 10mm space in most places becuase I just couldn't get anymore.

No, version one was a 6-speed 01E. Version two is going to be done with the same B7 RS4 0A3 you used.

[IM954]

Shame you are in the US, I can't justify sending my block to the US... Also was not sure about Nikasil coating as I had heard some reports about the coating coming off, hence the reason they chose Alusil, but I need to find something local here to do something anyway, who ordered the pistons for you?

There were issues years ago with the Nikasil coating coming off because of sulfur content. That issue has been resolved.

[IM954]

Shame you are in the US, I can't justify sending my block to the US... Also was not sure about Nikasil coating as I had heard some reports about the coating coming off, hence the reason they chose Alusil, but I need to find something local here to do something anyway, who ordered the pistons for you?

I ordered the pistons myself and worked with CP Carrillo on specs.

[IM954]

I was worried about the weight of the car for the R8 wheels (especially the front wheels), hence I have the wheels at home, but nothing has been done with them yet....

Haven't had any issues with the R8 wheels and the weight of the car. And mine is an RS6 Avant weighing just over 4000 pounds

[IM954]

Are you sticking to Auto to going to manual? If you are sticking to Auto I don't think you will have a chance. With a manual you should be able to but i will be a damn tight fit, esp if yours are 2 in longer... Like I said in my PM I have pretty much 10mm space in most places becuase I just couldn't get anymore.

Which Tilton carbon/carbon did you go with? Size? What flywheel did you end up using? Clutch Master or Tilton one?

[jibberjive]

That intake works great have been driving it for months with great results, that dyno was also done with that setup too.

Hey Milka, you mention a dyno, but I can't see a plot or any of the dyno numbers that you reference. Do you by chance still have those details?

[SeeMyC5]

Reviving this thread. Any updates?

[milka]

Ha ha you just read my mind....

Currently the engine is out and i'm building it up with Pauter rods, forged pistons, re-lapped bores, fully worked heads..... GTX3071 Gen II or G25-660 turbos, not sure which way yet...


Reviving this thread. Any updates?

[DTraudt1]

Ha ha you just read my mind....

Currently the engine is out and i'm building it up with Pauter rods, forged pistons, re-lapped bores, fully worked heads..... GTX3071 Gen II or G25-660 turbos, not sure which way yet...

How far were you able to push the stock block? hp/tq?
What were you running? psi boost, maf g/s, etc
Have you been running e85?

I am currently researching for my own build down the road: 6sp swap, have spare bcy motor that I need to decide what to do with

Edit: Think I found all the info after reading through your entire thread(35 pages lol) on the aussie audi forum: 470kW and 1200Nm @ 21psi on 98 oct

[SeeMyC5]

Milka, before you pulled the engine to build it, what oil were you running? I have a stock block with about 19psi, been running Redline 5w40.

[nubcake]

How far were you able to push the stock block? hp/tq?

Stock block can reliably take 25+ psi, if you're careful about EGTs & detonation.
That translates to ~1200nm with hybrids.

However, for any serious build you'd really want at least rods.

[milka]

Yeah most of that is correct, I didn't want to up the boost past 21 without some strengthening. 21psi on GTX30s is very different to hybrid turbos. Planning to run around 30psi give or take


How far were you able to push the stock block? hp/tq?
What were you running? psi boost, maf g/s, etc
Have you been running e85?

I am currently researching for my own build down the road: 6sp swap, have spare bcy motor that I need to decide what to do with

Edit: Think I found all the info after reading through your entire thread(35 pages lol) on the aussie audi forum: 470kW and 1200Nm @ 21psi on 98 oct

[milka]

I've always run Mobile 1 5-50, i like the zinc and slightly better protection.


Milka, before you pulled the engine to build it, what oil were you running? I have a stock block with about 19psi, been running Redline 5w40.

[milka]

Yeah if everything works as i'm hoping this should be bullet proof...

testing a solution for ARP main studs and ARP Head studs. I can let you know if my plan works.....

From a torque point of view i think i was very close to the limit, those GTX30 turbos pull like absolutely crazy, feels like the tyres are tearing the road apart at full boost and no taper.


Stock block can reliably take 25+ psi, if you're careful about EGTs & detonation.
That translates to ~1200nm with hybrids.

However, for any serious build you'd really want at least rods.

[milka]

Still looking for a good easy solution for fuels pumps to handle E85 for 8*1000cc injectors before I go E85 everything else is ready. I had started on making a dual walbro 460 in tank setup but have not really progressed it due to kids and time

[RS8]

8*1000cc injectors is to small for you with E85, you will need bigger!

I have bought 1500cc now for my car, because I was already up to 84% open time (and it was with less power than you have had.) on mine EV14 1000cc which I have been using now for several years on E85.
I have dual walbro 450 in a fuel surge tank standing in the trunk.

[milka]

Yeah I'm thinking E85 might do that...

What Fuel pressure are you running? I'm currently running at 3 bar but was probably going to push it up to 4 bar, but I agree it may not be enough.

I'm just worried that 1500cc injectors in a daily driver would be a good idea....


8*1000cc injectors is to small for you with E85, you will need bigger!

I have bought 1500cc now for my car, because I was already up to 84% open time (and it was with less power than you have had.) on mine EV14 1000cc which I have been using now for several years on E85.
I have dual walbro 450 in a fuel surge tank standing in the trunk.

[RS8]

With a modern injector like EV14, you can drive with over 2000cc each without problems, (But I could not find any larger EV14 that have the same length etc. as the ones I used, so therefore I bought these 1500cc now.)

But you may have problems getting the right values ​​when you use air mass meters? But for me with MaxxEcu I can use whatever I want.

I also drive at 3 bar

I don't know how much better an Walbro 460 flows than 450?
But if you have 3bar + 2bar boost = 5bar = then one 450 can deliver fuel for maximum 640hp with E85
But if you have 4bar + 2bar boost = 6bar = then one 450 can then only deliver fuel for maximum 550hp with E85 so 2 pumps will only flow for maximum 1100 engine hp.

[milka]

Yep definitely need more fuel pump then....

Comes down to usage I think, as my car is mainly a daily driver I need to keep that low pulse width control


With a modern injector like EV14, you can drive with over 2000cc each without problems, (But I could not find any larger EV14 that have the same length etc. as the ones I used, so therefore I bought these 1500cc now.)

But you may have problems getting the right values ​​when you use air mass meters? But for me with MaxxEcu I can use whatever I want.

I also drive at 3 bar

I don't know how much better an Walbro 460 flows than 450?
But if you have 3bar + 2bar boost = 5bar = then one 450 can deliver fuel for maximum 640hp with E85
But if you have 4bar + 2bar boost = 6bar = then one 450 can then only deliver fuel for maximum 550hp with E85 so 2 pumps will only flow for maximum 1100 engine hp.

[RS8]

Yes, but also bigger injectors.
If I use a injector calulator and type in 8 pcs and 1000hp in a turbo engine and 85% duty cycle.
For gasoline = 950cc
For E85 = 1235-1300cc

Bosch
EV14 1000cc = 3bar/950cc, 4bar/1080cc, 5bar/1212cc
EV14 1200cc = 3bar/1095cc, 4bar/1275cc
EV14 1300cc = 3bar/1245cc, 4bar/1435cc, 5bar/1615cc
EV14 1500cc = 3bar/1450cc, 4bar/1690cc, 5bar/1900cc

So if you want 1100hp then you need about 1400cc and for 1200hp over 1500cc injectors.


So you need at least EV14 1300cc injectors and drive them at 4-5bar


EV14 1000cc is part no 0280158040 = what I have used, is it the same that you have now?
EV14 1500cc is 0280158333