NSU RS6
February 25th, 2014, 01:50
I never thought I would change the oil on my RS6 in my garage with no lift.
Why you say?
Because I am getting too old to be sliding around under cars. Further - the RS6 is a car that was meant to be serviced on a lift.
But I was changing from winter to summer wheels yesterday, so the jack was out. I was also a few months and a couple thousand miles over my scheduled oil change, due to my friend never seeming to be able to have a lift open (he is an indy Porsche mechanic).
I had the oil and filter on hand. Hell, why not?
So I jack the RF wheel up with a six inch long block of wood on the jack point, and set a stand on its lowest setting under the aft subframe mount with a 3 x 3 x 5/8" think plywood block in between.
I move to the other side, and the LF wheel is off of the ground. Fuck. I had not broken those lugs yet, so I start over. Five minutes later the front is up on stands.
I then remember to check our DIY section - and there it is: the DIY oil change. Yes! This will be a piece of cake!
What a worthless thread. OP says you can remove the filter out the side, and the pics showing how to do so have been dropped. I find out later there ain't no way that filter is coming out the side, unless I was to crush it first bare handed, which then leaves the reinstall as iffy. The remainder of the thread is T-Belt questions, 12 pack drinking, Toyota loving, dealer bashing, DP clearing, stock options trading drivel.
That thread needs to be updated or removed. Doesn't say much about our DIY thread when it doesn't even cover how to change the oil.
Anyhoo, with the necessary fluid and parts, my trusty strap clamp oil filter wrench - and the fricking miracle that I actually had a T55 torx in my tool box, I went at it.
- Break RF wheel lugnuts
- Jack car at forward jack point with 6" long wood block centered on jack pad (line contact).
- Place jack stand on aft subframe mount, also wood block protected.
- Repeat on opposite side, so car is equally supported at front.
- Move floor jack to in between stands, jack to contact only, for redundancy (best place to store jack for the time being....).
- Remove RF wheel
- Remove belly pan
- Drain oil at pan with T55 Torx at drainplug. Drain ten minutes and reinstall plug.
- Move oil catch to under filter.
- Put strap clamp on filter at filter base, through narrow opening at sway bar and loosen.
- Continue to loosen by reaching through the side opening from forward of the drive axle.
- Let drain five minutes without completely removing filter.
- Fully remove filter, let it fall to sway bar and fully drain.
- Loosen four (two each side) 13mm nuts at forward swaybar mounts, and pull down.
- Remove filter.
- Install is reverse of above.
This probably took me a half an hour, and it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. My biggest concerns were the amount of torsion put into the car by lifting three wheels off of the ground from the RH forward jack point. I think I will be buying another, aluminum floor jack so I can lift the front from each side simultaneously. I have always wanted one of the aluminum jacks anyway, the Snap-on I have is great - but it is an 80 lb tank of a jack. My other concern was supporting at the aft subframe mount. There is a clean surface there, and that is all I touched, but is this an acceptable support point?
I will still always try to do this on my friends lift, but this worked in a pinch. Surprisingly it was not that messy either, maybe because I wasn't in a hurry and let things drain.
I would appreciate feedback on whether I was supporting the car acceptably or not.
Happy Monday!
Why you say?
Because I am getting too old to be sliding around under cars. Further - the RS6 is a car that was meant to be serviced on a lift.
But I was changing from winter to summer wheels yesterday, so the jack was out. I was also a few months and a couple thousand miles over my scheduled oil change, due to my friend never seeming to be able to have a lift open (he is an indy Porsche mechanic).
I had the oil and filter on hand. Hell, why not?
So I jack the RF wheel up with a six inch long block of wood on the jack point, and set a stand on its lowest setting under the aft subframe mount with a 3 x 3 x 5/8" think plywood block in between.
I move to the other side, and the LF wheel is off of the ground. Fuck. I had not broken those lugs yet, so I start over. Five minutes later the front is up on stands.
I then remember to check our DIY section - and there it is: the DIY oil change. Yes! This will be a piece of cake!
What a worthless thread. OP says you can remove the filter out the side, and the pics showing how to do so have been dropped. I find out later there ain't no way that filter is coming out the side, unless I was to crush it first bare handed, which then leaves the reinstall as iffy. The remainder of the thread is T-Belt questions, 12 pack drinking, Toyota loving, dealer bashing, DP clearing, stock options trading drivel.
That thread needs to be updated or removed. Doesn't say much about our DIY thread when it doesn't even cover how to change the oil.
Anyhoo, with the necessary fluid and parts, my trusty strap clamp oil filter wrench - and the fricking miracle that I actually had a T55 torx in my tool box, I went at it.
- Break RF wheel lugnuts
- Jack car at forward jack point with 6" long wood block centered on jack pad (line contact).
- Place jack stand on aft subframe mount, also wood block protected.
- Repeat on opposite side, so car is equally supported at front.
- Move floor jack to in between stands, jack to contact only, for redundancy (best place to store jack for the time being....).
- Remove RF wheel
- Remove belly pan
- Drain oil at pan with T55 Torx at drainplug. Drain ten minutes and reinstall plug.
- Move oil catch to under filter.
- Put strap clamp on filter at filter base, through narrow opening at sway bar and loosen.
- Continue to loosen by reaching through the side opening from forward of the drive axle.
- Let drain five minutes without completely removing filter.
- Fully remove filter, let it fall to sway bar and fully drain.
- Loosen four (two each side) 13mm nuts at forward swaybar mounts, and pull down.
- Remove filter.
- Install is reverse of above.
This probably took me a half an hour, and it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. My biggest concerns were the amount of torsion put into the car by lifting three wheels off of the ground from the RH forward jack point. I think I will be buying another, aluminum floor jack so I can lift the front from each side simultaneously. I have always wanted one of the aluminum jacks anyway, the Snap-on I have is great - but it is an 80 lb tank of a jack. My other concern was supporting at the aft subframe mount. There is a clean surface there, and that is all I touched, but is this an acceptable support point?
I will still always try to do this on my friends lift, but this worked in a pinch. Surprisingly it was not that messy either, maybe because I wasn't in a hurry and let things drain.
I would appreciate feedback on whether I was supporting the car acceptably or not.
Happy Monday!