New to Board & RS6 Ownership

[Mikefo]

Hello from Tulsa:
Just purchased 03 RS6 out of NJ with 24k miles. Prior owner seems to be very good with keeping up with the cars scheduled maintenance and recalls. Amazingly the receipts add up to over 20k although $7,900 was warranty (Recall 20L8 Service) not sure yet what that was. Car is still in route to me but I have some of the records. Attached are a partial list of work done on car Tried to include relevant items. I was wondering what jumps out to experienced owners and what will need to be done in the near future? Kind of jumped before looking on the car before really understanding the maintenance reputation of the RS6. Transmission fluid change? The Audi service advisor rated the car as the cleanest/best services example he has ever seen but I have yet to lay eyes on it or drive a Audi much less a RS6. My expectations are sky high though. I will turn my own wrench for the most part when it is possible for a novice mechanic to do a job. I read a tread on what a new owner will need. I liked the tip on using an oil extractor to change oil.

Any tips will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.


<tbody>
April 27, 2006

5,860

$52.95

Perform 25K Miles Service/Change Oil/Fluids/Filter



December 20, 2006

7,245

$229.35

Complete Service-Fluids/Filters/Lights/Wipers



May 9, 2007

7,895

N/C

45K Service-Oil Filter/Fluids



December 7, 2007

10,020

$239.73

Change Oil/Filter/Check Brakes



May 7, 2008

10,799

$223.19

Change Oil/Filter/Fluids



November 19, 2008

12,310

$205.49

Change Oil/Rotate Tires



April 9, 2009

13,095

$281.99

Brake Fluid Flush



August 21, 2009

14,350

$171.15

Suspension Recall-Replace DRH Shocks/Charge System



March 10, 2010

15,458

$447.48

Change Oil & Filters/Fluids/Tire Pressure



November 22, 2010

17,046

$296.80

Change Oil & Filters/Fluids/Tire Pressure



April 5, 2011

17,720

$3,779.83

Belt Service and Tune Up. Pump and Rollers install



June 30, 2011

18,208

N/C

Recall 20L8 Service



July 19, 2012

20,986

$1,125.67

Tune Up & Oil Change



March 19, 2013

22,560

$3,999.47

Brake Pads & Caliper Mounts / Oil Change


</tbody>



<tbody>

</tbody>

<tbody>


</tbody><colgroup><col><col span="3"></colgroup>

[lswing]

The second category in is?

With your lower VIN number, keep and eye on the Torque Convertor and potential trans issues related to that. It seems to be a mixed bag on changing the fluid in an old trans. Some say leave it to let the sludgy fluid help the clutch contact, others fresh fluid for better function. I had my TC go out at 87k, new one and new fluid, trans went at 94k as it was probably damaged since the car was driven with the bad TC.

Get a scan cable and software, ross-tech.com, invaluable in diagnosing issues, and great for logging data if you want to tune down the road.

Better brake pads if you have stock...

Max will give you the official greeting, it's a bit of a ride but this car is amazing...

[MaxRS6]

^As promised...

Welcome aboard the..

http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz195/MaxRS6/Ozzy%20at%20Emerald/CrazyTrainPoster1.jpg?

[lswing]

^As promised...

Welcome aboard the..

http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz195/MaxRS6/Ozzy%20at%20Emerald/CrazyTrainPoster1.jpg?

Right on cue! This slogan becomes truer every month of ownership....but damn if she's not worth it!

[lswing]

I fixed it for you....
http://www.digital-distillery.us/videos/CrazyTrainPoster1.jpg

[Bigglezworth]

Amazingly the receipts add up to over 20k Peanuts. I have a folder that is over an inch thick with $50K worth of repairs over the past 10 years.....Hope you have some decent cash flow and/or a big wallet. J/K. Enjoy your ride.

[Mikefo]

Starting to reconsider the use of the RS6 as a daily driver.

[JSRS6]

I bought mine 4/10. So I've been driving her the better part of 3 years minus Afghanistan. I've had very little issues with her and have put a lot of miles on her. Bought her at 67k and she's at 145k now. Just had her up to 188 this weekend and could have gone higher. What have I paid for? Tune, t-belts, rnse, pss9's, hotchkis, tires, PC rims, control arms. Unfortunately buying this car is just like buying any other car, some have problems. Could I spend more on her? Sure. I want wagners, 6-speed, bigger snails, nicer rims. But I can beat most things on the road, and surprise the snot out of quite a few bikes. Money well spent I say.

[lswing]

Starting to reconsider the use of the RS6 as a daily driver.

DD here, but I only drive 10-20 miles per day....it's the 12mpg average I get around the city that can add up too.

Been in the shop about a month or so on average each year (although just a few days this one, knocking on wood), so I have a backup car, or just get a rental for $20 per day. Easy right?...sorta...

[ben916]

Starting to consider the use of the RS6 as a daily driver.

^^^fixed

It is a car MEANT to be driven, not to be sitting in the garage rotting away...

The RS6 is only happy in boost.

[marklar182]

I Daily Drive the RS6. No worries here.

[DHall1]

Oh Ben

My garage queen still sees 5k a year and its Lexus reliable. Zero issues the last 6 years.

My DD has been a different story but now that the trans is fixed its golden.


^^^fixed

It is a car MEANT to be driven, not to be sitting in the garage rotting away...

The RS6 is only happy in boost.

[Bigglezworth]

I daily drive the RS6 also. Alternate between two of them in fact.

[DHall1]

Nice list of prev cars. I think you will fit right in here.

What is the VIN? last 6. EDIT: Got your VIN from the other thread. Middle VIN, I will check the list to see if I have any other info on it.

Early VIN has issues with transmissions even at low mileages.

At your miles....if its an early VIN....I would buy a 4/48 service contract. It will be reasonable do to the low miles. I can almost give you even money that a trans is in your future. Would I still own the car? Hell yes.


Hello from Tulsa:
Just purchased 03 RS6 out of NJ with 24k miles. Prior owner seems to be very good with keeping up with the cars scheduled maintenance and recalls. Amazingly the receipts add up to over 20k although $7,900 was warranty (Recall 20L8 Service) not sure yet what that was. Car is still in route to me but I have some of the records. Attached are a partial list of work done on car Tried to include relevant items. I was wondering what jumps out to experienced owners and what will need to be done in the near future? Kind of jumped before looking on the car before really understanding the maintenance reputation of the RS6. Transmission fluid change? The Audi service advisor rated the car as the cleanest/best services example he has ever seen but I have yet to lay eyes on it or drive a Audi much less a RS6. My expectations are sky high though. I will turn my own wrench for the most part when it is possible for a novice mechanic to do a job. I read a tread on what a new owner will need. I liked the tip on using an oil extractor to change oil.

Any tips will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.


<tbody>
April 27, 2006

5,860

$52.95

Perform 25K Miles Service/Change Oil/Fluids/Filter



December 20, 2006

7,245

$229.35

Complete Service-Fluids/Filters/Lights/Wipers



May 9, 2007

7,895

N/C

45K Service-Oil Filter/Fluids



December 7, 2007

10,020

$239.73

Change Oil/Filter/Check Brakes



May 7, 2008

10,799

$223.19

Change Oil/Filter/Fluids



November 19, 2008

12,310

$205.49

Change Oil/Rotate Tires



April 9, 2009

13,095

$281.99

Brake Fluid Flush



August 21, 2009

14,350

$171.15

Suspension Recall-Replace DRH Shocks/Charge System



March 10, 2010

15,458

$447.48

Change Oil & Filters/Fluids/Tire Pressure



November 22, 2010

17,046

$296.80

Change Oil & Filters/Fluids/Tire Pressure



April 5, 2011

17,720

$3,779.83

Belt Service and Tune Up. Pump and Rollers install



June 30, 2011

18,208

N/C

Recall 20L8 Service



July 19, 2012

20,986

$1,125.67

Tune Up & Oil Change



March 19, 2013

22,560

$3,999.47

Brake Pads & Caliper Mounts / Oil Change


</tbody>



<tbody>

</tbody>

<tbody>



</tbody>

[Mikefo]

Ok, I am interested in the low vin = transmission issues. Is that that the torque converter is the problem. Should I have it fixed preventively?

[4.2Crew]

It is a car MEANT to be driven, not to be sitting in the garage rotting away...

The RS6 is only happy in boost.

YUP! Agreed, Ben...

Mine is DD and a work'n girl:


20+ bags of mulch...
1449714498

[Other_Erik]

Ok, I am interested in the low vin = transmission issues. Is that that the torque converter is the problem. Should I have it fixed preventively?

Saw you mentioned 'novice mechanic', just thought you might want an idea what you're getting yourself into here.
Replacing the TC "preventatively" is IMHO, a good idea on a lower VIN car, but it's a lot of work.
First, look up "Service Position" - if you want to turn wrenches, get into the habit, and learn the quick way to do a full engine pull...
If you're lucky enough to have the right kind of space (larger enclosed garage), and an engine hoist, you should be able to get it into service position in ~6 hours on the first try, less time after that as you get more practice.
Check out ACE for the Torque converter, built to handle the abuse of 700hp from 2k-6600rpm engine speed. Parts should run, what, ~$2k-2500?
Count yourself very lucky getting such a low mileage example. Once the TC starts to go, it tends to grenade the trans (~$3500/rebuild or ~$7k replacement)
While you've got it apart, if you're feeling cheeky and don't mind screwing with it, there's plenty to do while it's in service position... I built a list of services planned for the inevitable wallet-crushing moment for myself:


1) Splash Guard - Sportec vent mod (dremeled channel across the front of the splash guard with angle aluminum to allow airflow but not water/dirt up into the engine compartment. Total cost if you still have a splash guard: ~$20 worth of materials and a couple hours of labor
2) Wagner IC's/Hoses/Shrouds - beefier intercoolers, better piping, better airflow across the IC for more consistent power in higher temps (you're in Oklahoma, I'd very much recommend this). Total cost ~$2k + labor (requires bumper removal, and you'll lose your fog lights)
3) While you're in service position, you might as well take care of a few things with the engine. Generally accepted repairs at service position time:
Timing Belt/Water Pump/Tensioner Rollers/etc... - the kit runs ~$700 and will be an extra 3-4 hours labor in service position - strictly done at least once every 35k miles. If you drive it hard, reduce to 30k intervals. If you drive like the typical RS6 owner, reduce to 25k miles just to be safe
Alternator / Alternator Diode - the Diode fails far more often than the alternator itself. Either _can_ be replaced without the engine out, but it's a tight fit, big hassle.
O2 sensors - if they haven't gone south recently, plan for them to do so soon. Can't recall the list price off the top of my head, but get at 'em while the engine is in service position to save a whole lot of trouble
Gasket check - every seal, every gasket, everywhere. Pinhole leaks are a pretty common occurence, and you don't want to mix coolant into the crankcase. Full seal kit runs ~$350. Lots of labor, but worth it to save the engine!
3b) While you're in service position, take some time to do other stuff with the engine that can net you some gains at minimal expense.
You don't need headers (unless you're doing a full custom turbo job, stage 3 tune, all that jazz) - I recommend wrapping the exhaust manifolds from the heads to the pre-cats, and possibly back to the secondary cats.
Turbos in good shape? Check lines and be sure you're not collecting oil in the lower bent tube. Assuming everything is still sealed up tight, turbo blankets will help you get your heat down the pipe instead of letting it soak the engine bay
While we're talking about heat - check out your EGT's - fairly common occurence with these is the solder joint from the thermocouple wire to the board cracking and causing EGT signal loss. Pop open the body of the Sensor, if there's any doubt to the solidity of the solder joint, flux that stuff off and re-solder, cover with dilectric grease, close it up and enjoy another 50k miles of service
4) General maintenance and/or appearance upgrades-
Check your axles and CV boots. Typically, replacing a front half-shaft from Raxle will give you a better performing unit at less than the cost of an OEM CV boot kit.
Cabin air filter - clean air, happy passengers
Coolant check: G12 only!
Oil: Not gonna start a holy war on the boards again regarding which oil to use. Just make sure it meets/exceeds 505.01 spec. I'm not even going to recommend a brand.
Per your taste, LED's are a great way to modernize the look of the RS6. Personally, I've done DEPO smoked LED Tails (they look pretty hot on Brilliant Black), and superbrightleds.com Type 74 in the high-mount brake light (MUCH brighter, much truer RED color when lit) - I'm planning on doing up some other lights, but I promised the girlfriend we'd get her car squared away before anything else with the RS6

Whew, lots of stuff here. Welcome, and FON! :)

O_E

[Mikefo]

Thanks for the advice on the TC. I probably will do it next time my engine is in "Service Position". Do know when that will happen but based on what I have read it will be sooner than later. I purchased a garage queen from an obsessive owner who was older and probably never really leaned into the car. So I am hoping that the transmission has not seen the type of abuse it received from "typical RS6 owner" but you never know. When I mentioned I like to turn a wrench I did not mean that I would be removing the engine. Need to find a good shop for that. General maintenance is a go though.

[ttboost]

You're not doing the TC in service position. Unless you have a lift, or can get your car up on jacks pretty high, there's not much you can do. Did you know Audi recommends removing the engine for most maintanance? O2 sensors, wastegates, etc...Good luck with you're new purchase...You will learn a lot. This car is a love/hate relationship...in that you will love the car, but it hate's your money...

[Turbowned]

@4.2Crew, what wheels do you have on the car? They look nice!

[4.2Crew]

@4.2Crew, what wheels do you have on the car? They look nice!

Thanks... Wheels are 19" VMR 713's...

A few better pics:

1449914500

[LIRS6]

Congrats and good luck - looks like the prior owner took great care of it, e.g. changing oil @ 6 mos regardless of the (low) mileage between services.

Daily driver ; mine has been that since bought new ... 138k miles ago.

I'm a novice mechanic at best, but have successfully tackled removal/replacement of shocks, alternator (it was just the regulator in fact), front pads, pass side intercooler, RNS-E installation ...

Enjoy ... and post pics once you get it

[DHall1]

The RS6 is a great daily car.

At your low mileage I would NOT opt to change the TC to prevent anything. I would instead stick the 4k into a 4/48 service contract that will cover all the other items than need an engine pull to fix and the transmission when the time comes. And it will come.

Then drive the car and enjoy it. I started from 20k on #1 and 33k on #3. The two best vehicles I have ever driven.




Nice list of prev cars. I think you will fit right in here.

What is the VIN? last 6. EDIT: Got your VIN from the other thread. Middle VIN, I will check the list to see if I have any other info on it.

Early VIN has issues with transmissions even at low mileages.

At your miles....if its an early VIN....I would buy a 4/48 service contract. It will be reasonable do to the low miles. I can almost give you even money that a trans is in your future. Would I still own the car? Hell yes.

[hahnmgh63]

That recall you were wondering about is the fuel tank leak fix. They Epoxy up part of the tank to prevent leaks but in your case, because of the price, they probably replaced the whole tank.

[905084]

I fixed it for you....
http://www.digital-distillery.us/videos/CrazyTrainPoster1.jpg

It's even Mugello!!

[905084]

I daily drive the RS6 also. Alternate between two of them in fact.

Same here....thinking I need a third....but then I'd lose a wife....hmmm....let me think on that....

[905084]

Drive it....flog it....break it....fix it....I've got a 42 year old Cutlass with 128k on the clock and I hate that I didn't drive it.....cause it's not worth more cause I didn't.

[G2]

Congrats on the purchase, sounds super nice. Hope to see pics at some point.

Mine is a 10-12K p/yr daily driver. 90%+ highway. Naturally do my own work, since it's my profession. Otherwise wouldn't have bought or could have afforded a perpetual money pit (I have other money pits to contend with). Love the car and lust after very little else- can't get more performance and quality for the $.

I've serviced hundreds of transmissions over the years. The theme is common: if the fluid is old it will normally be heavily contaminated. Change it. Leaving the old fluid and filter in is not advisable. If for some reason fresh fluid makes its "worse" then the trans was on the edge of being "done". Leaving old fluid in is somewhat a Old Wife's Tale....one of my Mech/Tech friends years ago had a trans where the old fluid had to be reinstalled (in a domestic POS). I do not care for the OE spec fluids (Castrol) and will not under any circumstance personally use that brand. Got stories. Anyway.

Change ALL the fluids. Oil needs to also fight off water and rusting, including maintaining a reasonable PH to keep from attacking seals. Even if the oil looks "good", change it. I very much doubt the dealer changed any of the driveline fluids. There is NO service interval for them: "life time" factory filled.

Engine oil: I specificy do NOT use VAG spec oil. It's designed to protect the emission systems, NOT the engine (hence the lack of crucial anti-friction additives: SAPS). Using spec oil is just asking for trouble on a 10 year old car that makes so much power (IMHO). Lots of info available on that topic....

Timing belt: It's the same belt and parts as the NA V8's (just did an S6). The only reason I can see that VAG specs such a low service interval is to be safe (Halo car of the era and all) and to compensate for the incredible heat soaking the occurs. In warm weather i open the hood and turn on the exhaust fan. Use a Gates racing belt. The upper guide pulleys are small and spin frantically, and are a concern (to me). I use INA OE pulleys, but GMB is a lot less (probably fine for a 35K svc interval, but still wouldn't). Time is also a factor, not just mileage. Like tires, most OEM's recommend 7yrs max on timing belts.

Turbo's: I've played with plenty of them and even built one years ago. Basically a wiggle test works well. 1.5-2mm of side play is usually max. If the impellor is grazing the compressor housing it's worn out. At that point it will be bypassing oil into the intake. Easy to remove the IC hoses to check for oil buildup. Ideally none, but most turbo's blow some oil over time.

That's my 3 cents worth.

[Mikefo]

I plan to have the Transmission fluid/filter changed after I get it. His dealer service records don't show it was ever changed as the dealer probably considered it a "lifetime" fill.

G2, what fluid do you recommend for transmission fluid? Any particular brand of filter? I want to avoid the starvation/pickup issues that some have experienced. I took a look at the www.oiloregon.com web site. I could not determine the Transmission filter to order? Do you have the code for the Audi RS6 ZF? On motor oil I believe you recommend EFMQT-EA but am not sure.

Also, I had Audi give me a price on a extended 3 year 36 k mike warranty. They priced it at $3,900 for the platinum (everything covered). Not out of the question but I am wondering if it has a high probability of payback. The car has 24.5 k what I think have been really easy over maintained miles. Anybody have any luck negotiating the extended warranty? Not sure I will drive more than 3-4k per year unless I love this car so much I sell my daily driver. An then I will only drive maybe 8 k per year. I live just a few miles from work.

[marklar182]

For the warranty, there is a 90% chance you will break even.

Just a set set of leaking valve covers will put you at $3500

[Bigglezworth]

I am wondering if it has a high probability of paybackFunny... lol, Unless you are a wrencher (and by that I mean perform more than basic maintenance work like brakes, oil changes, plugs, tires, etc.), you will find the costs can run up in short order.


Not sure I will drive more than 3-4k per year unless I love this car so much I sell my daily driver. An then I will only drive maybe 8 k per year. I live just a few miles from work.That will come to pass. Unless you're driving some sort of exotic sportscar, I'll put my money on you driving it more than you anticipate as it's just too nice and too addictive of a ride to sit by the weighside waiting for a day out.

[Other_Erik]

Funny... lol, Unless you are a wrencher (and by that I mean perform more than basic maintenance work like brakes, oil changes, plugs, tires, etc.), you will find the costs can run up in short order.

That will come to pass. Unless you're driving some sort of exotic sportscar, I'll put my money on you driving it more than you anticipate as it's just too nice and too addictive of a ride to sit by the weighside waiting for a day out.

Seconded on both points. I've had quicker/faster cars, more comfortable cars, more expensive vehicles (at least comparing _my_ purchase price), but the RS is still my top pick hands-down. I haven't enjoyed any of the other vehicles anywhere near as much as this one, and it feels like every time I drive it is a better experience than the last. Did a quick cruise around on Sunday through patchy rain and enjoyed every second of it, where normally I can't stand driving in DC-area traffic in the first place... I'd give better than even odds that you'll enjoy the RS too much to let it sit.

Next major project: Modernization :)

[DHall1]

There should be some wiggle room on the price. Also opt for the 4/48 and check the price of a Gold+ plan.

90 percent chance you will claim a torque converter(7000) or trans (10000) in that time frame.

You will drive this car more than planned.

Check the link that lswing gave us on trans fluid. Schaeffers is good stuff. I use all the fluids from BND Automotive. Trans, engine oil, Aces iv, power steering. Give Brian a call and chat with him. You will switch. LOL


I plan to have the Transmission fluid/filter changed after I get it. His dealer service records don't show it was ever changed as the dealer probably considered it a "lifetime" fill.

G2, what fluid do you recommend for transmission fluid? Any particular brand of filter? I want to avoid the starvation/pickup issues that some have experienced. I took a look at the www.oiloregon.com web site. I could not determine the Transmission filter to order? Do you have the code for the Audi RS6 ZF? On motor oil I believe you recommend EFMQT-EA but am not sure.

Also, I had Audi give me a price on a extended 3 year 36 k mike warranty. They priced it at $3,900 for the platinum (everything covered). Not out of the question but I am wondering if it has a high probability of payback. The car has 24.5 k what I think have been really easy over maintained miles. Anybody have any luck negotiating the extended warranty? Not sure I will drive more than 3-4k per year unless I love this car so much I sell my daily driver. An then I will only drive maybe 8 k per year. I live just a few miles from work.

[nistah]

For the warranty, there is a 90% chance you will break even.

Just a set set of leaking valve covers will put you at $3500


If the valve covers are replaced at the same time as the timing belt water pump service would this lower the cost on labor, if yes how much? THanks!

[Bigglezworth]

Valve cover gaskets CAN be changed out without removing the engine or putting it in service position. Drivers side - easy. Passenger side - frustratingly and unnecessarily difficult. The gas lines and the coolant pipe make things difficult. Both could have been engineered 'smarter' to eliminate service woes.

[nistah]

Valve cover gaskets CAN be changed out without removing the engine or putting it in service position. Drivers side - easy. Passenger side - frustratingly and unnecessarily difficult. The gas lines and the coolant pipe make things difficult. Both could have been engineered 'smarter' to eliminate service woes.

Thanks Bigglezworth, I am planning on doing the Timing belt soon anyway so was wondering if having done at the same time saves on labor. I will look into it... Have a happy holidays!!

[lswing]

G2, what fluid do you recommend for transmission fluid? Any particular brand of filter? I want to avoid the starvation/pickup issues that some have experienced. I took a look at the www.oiloregon.com web site. I could not determine the Transmission filter to order? Do you have the code for the Audi RS6 ZF? On motor oil I believe you recommend EFMQT-EA but am not sure.

Audi OEM filter, trim pickup 1/4" to prevent starvation by pan pressing into it.

[G2]

I plan to have the Transmission fluid/filter changed after I get it. His dealer service records don't show it was ever changed as the dealer probably considered it a "lifetime" fill.

G2, what fluid do you recommend for transmission fluid? Any particular brand of filter? I want to avoid the starvation/pickup issues that some have experienced. I took a look at the www.oiloregon.com web site. I could not determine the Transmission filter to order? Do you have the code for the Audi RS6 ZF? On motor oil I believe you recommend EFMQT-EA but am not sure.

Also, I had Audi give me a price on a extended 3 year 36 k mike warranty. They priced it at $3,900 for the platinum (everything covered). Not out of the question but I am wondering if it has a high probability of payback. The car has 24.5 k what I think have been really easy over maintained miles. Anybody have any luck negotiating the extended warranty? Not sure I will drive more than 3-4k per year unless I love this car so much I sell my daily driver. An then I will only drive maybe 8 k per year. I live just a few miles from work.

Yes, dealers do not do a full trans service due to that fact. ATF is only added after replacing a pan gasket, as they did on my car (calls for 4 qts but seems to use about 6-7 from experience). A full flush will use about 16qts, anything less than 14qts isn't enough. I've used up to 18qts on the ZF auto boxes-- the debris just keeps coming out...

I have been using Amsoil ATF in various cars and all Audi's since '08, and since getting my car on 6/12. Fantastic fluid. My only slight reservation due to an overstressed transmission (if tuned) is that I think reducing the friction modifiers would be advisable (esp. in cooler weather). Amsoil makes a performance/race ATF. I am going to blend some of it into my car soon, to see if it firms up the shifts a little and lessens the periodic slippage (I can't stress enough how absolutely clean fluid is critical). I'll start with a gallon blend (appx 25% volume) and go from there....but I am catering to my specific car and the characteristics of my trans, in my climate, my driving style, and my penchant for being OCD.

There's not much to choose from filter wise. I always go with known German/euro brands. One I use is Meyle: 01L 398 009 BMY
O.E. #01L 398 009 B. Or Filtran is an OE supplier, but not always easy to find. Just avoid cheap (Chinese) brands. I don't think Amsoil offers a trans filter thru their product lines....

I'm not convinced trimming the filter snout is needed, but may help, if properly done. The last one I saw was roughly done (side cutters?). I think sharp edges could induce cavitation - air bubbles at worst, and/or flow turbulence- while the pump sucks oil. If done, I'd make sure all edges are smooth (and it becomes even more imperitive to maintain the oil level). If one does hit the pan, it'll be smart to just stop and get a tow home, while the oil likely leaks out and the filter is internally broken.....

Yes, the EFM oil is the high SAPS, which I personally use. Get the 5L size in a case (2x5L)- better price, easy to pour in, less waste. There is a mid and low-additive oil for those that feel the gospel of VAG must be followed. In short the more durable oil base stock helps prevent blow by, retaining the additives where it's needed-- in the crank case. Lower grade oils with high additives could cause issues after prolong use, or engines in degrading condition (loose rings, leaking valve guides, PCV issues), or that have been mis-treated.

Engine oil filter is a Amsoil EAO-37. Synthetic media, high flow, but extreme filtration and don't degrade like paper types. I think it helps with quicker oil pressure buildup on start up. FYI, the S6 filter is about 2x the size of the RS6. All the more reason to use the best filter possible.

Warranty: I've bought several. Well the wife has and she always gets them for 1/2 price (no, I don't have to leave the room...). Basically they make 100% margin on them, so there is plenty of bargaining room (on normal cars anyway). Shop around, but if you can get it for $3K, I'd run with it. Low miles, will not alleviate issues or costs. It'll just hurt more because "it only has xx miles on it!..." excuse won't appreciably apply. The warranty will pay for itself, and reduce your stress level. Best I could find at the time was $5K and some of the companies were heisters.

Sounds like you have a gem and will no doubt be a few steps ahead of us folks that bought at 70K+ miles.

Hope that helps!

[Bigglezworth]

Audi OEM filter, trim pickup 1/4" to prevent starvation by pan pressing into it.I have read that there were two different pan depths (variance of 3mm) which might attribute to this. I would always compare replacement part against removed part before automaticallly modifying.

[G2]

I have read that there were two different pan depths (variance of 3mm) which might attribute to this. I would always compare replacement part against removed part before automaticallly modifying.

Good to know. I consistently see the same filter P/N's for the C5's, but that doesn't mean ZF didn't change the valve body height or who know's what. I worked in Engineering for years and there were always revisions to stuff as things developed (and/or got cheaper).

I posted another one of my long winded reports on modifying the filter last summer. Last I remembered there's normally about 6-7mm of clearance (1/4").

Well, back to work-- yes, it's 2:30a PST (so much for the 9-5 job!). Time for another batch of coffee :revs:

[ttboost]

When I first got my car, we had it on the lift as the trans was acting funny. My buddy took it in on trade, fairly cheap, because the owner thought the trans was dead. When we got it up there and dropped the transmission pan, we found that the filter had a small split along the seam. It was not a stock filter. You would think that it shouldn't make a difference, as it is still sucking fluid, but it ran fine after we put a good filter in it. With this experience, I highly recommend OEM filters only.

[Papadelogan]

Ok, I am interested in the low vin = transmission issues. Is that that the torque converter is the problem. Should I have it fixed preventively?

I've been searching the site and (so far) have not come across what qualifies as a "LOW VIN"; I realize there's probably not a "hard number" but if someone could let me know a range, I'd greatly appreciate it. I'm starting to actively look for an RS6 so this info is quickly becoming a must-have item. Thanks!

[lswing]

Dave has it estimated at about 5500 for the cutoff, 5600 is golden he has found for the most part....

TC is such a pain to change, I would wait. You're looking at $2-3k in labor costs. Might as well wait until it goes, or something else that requires engine removal. Keep a close eye on it though. Some folks have had the trans last years even with a bad TC, driving habits and mileage is a big part. Replace both at same time with upgrades I say....

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/8904-RS6-US-VIN-Compilation/page23

[DHall1]

Thanks Lou and you are correct.

Early early vin's in the 4300 range are almost a 100percent guaranty that trans were blown by 50k.

Middle vin's 5300-5500 are hit and miss.

Late vin's 5600+ are about 100percent perfect up to 120k even tuned.

Late vin production dates are 10/03 and later.

Good luck


Dave has it estimated at about 5500 for the cutoff, 5600 is golden he has found for the most part....

TC is such a pain to change, I would wait. You're looking at $2-3k in labor costs. Might as well wait until it goes, or something else that requires engine removal. Keep a close eye on it though. Some folks have had the trans last years even with a bad TC, driving habits and mileage is a big part. Replace both at same time with upgrades I say....

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/8904-RS6-US-VIN-Compilation/page23

[DHall1]

Even money it is.




Nice list of prev cars. I think you will fit right in here.

What is the VIN? last 6. EDIT: Got your VIN from the other thread. Middle VIN, I will check the list to see if I have any other info on it.

Early VIN has issues with transmissions even at low mileages.

At your miles....if its an early VIN....I would buy a 4/48 service contract. It will be reasonable do to the low miles. I can almost give you even money that a trans is in your future. Would I still own the car? Hell yes.