6MT Conversion Project

[RAUDI]

Hello forums members,

I bought my RS6 the first week of July and lost my TC / Tranny by the end of the month. After spending a lot of time reading this forum and being inspired by Steveken I decided to start saving my money. I didn't waste a penny trying to fix the auto. I've ordered my parts toybox from audis4parts and begun my tear down. It's going to take me some time to do the saving for each step so I'm doing this at a leisurely pace in the garage during weekends and the occasional evening.

I'm looking forward to being a useful part of this community and learning a ton about a beautiful car. Thanks very much to Steveken for your time and help so far. I'm sure there will be more questions as progress continues.



Greg

[RAUDI]

Driveshaft removal was the goal of this past Sunday. Ended up getting the front half shafts, sway bar, and the sub-frame out as well.
1433514328143291433014331143321433314334

[N_Stamp]

Good luck with this and keep us posted!

[JSRS6]

Figures I would leave Hampton Roads and another Avus/black would take my place. Cheers! And good luck.

[Turbowned]

How many miles were on your car when the tranny popped?

[RAUDI]

That's too bad you've gone. Local hands on knowledge is always nice to have around. Thanks for the luck and I will keep this up to date as it moves along.

[RAUDI]

She is at 119,074 miles.

[Turbowned]

Alright I'm at 68k, hopefully I have more time on mine. Just the same I'm calling about a couple 2.7t manual parts cars tonight.

[4.2Crew]

Hi Greg! Good luck on the swap... Please keep us updated! The pics are priceless!

[lswing]

Alright I'm at 68k, hopefully I have more time on mine. Just the same I'm calling about a couple 2.7t manual parts cars tonight.

I think a tune is the quickest way to shorten the life of a trans, keep that in mind. Plenty of other factors too, and a tune sure is worth it performance wise. My TC went at 87k, should have been replaced earlier, trans went at 94k, was tuned the last 20k.

[ben916]

Speaking of tune, Greg, you will need to contact Jason @ AMD in Woodinville, WA on the 6mt tune to get rid of the ABS light. FYI

[alrightroad]

Greg, good luck with the swap. Tracking thread. Oh, and clean up that garage! What a mess :)

[JSRS6]

That's too bad you've gone. Local hands on knowledge is always nice to have around. Thanks for the luck and I will keep this up to date as it moves along.

Next time I'm up that way with my beast, I'll hit you up.

[RAUDI]

JSRS6 - I can't wait to see it.
AlrightRoad - It's the dog's fault. She's supposed to clean up as I work. She never does.....
4.2Crew - I'll keep logging pictures as I work. Should be more to come after Thanksgiving.
Thanks for all the good wishes guys.

[MaxRS6]

Awesome- Thanks for sharing the adventure!

[ttboost]

Anyone taking bets on when this one is for sale?:looking:

[MaxRS6]

Wahahahaha....

[RAUDI]

That doesn't seem very nice...This makes my 3rd major project car. Unless I come into a ton of money I don't see any way to out grow this car. It has everything I need. 4 doors, all wheel drive, child harnesses, heated seats, 8 piston brakes, 2 turbos, 8 cylinders.

[RAUDI]

.....and relatively soon it'll have 6 gears to row through.

[MaxRS6]

No ill-will meant here- I look forward to the continued progress and you ripping it through the gears!

[lswing]

Anyone taking bets on when this one is for sale?:looking:

Well the pattern is put the 6 in then sell in 6 weeks...just kidding man, hope you keep the car a long time, can't imagine ditching mine.

Chung will be contacting you soon regarding the sale (potential/hopefully not happening).

[Chung]

RAUDI, don't worry no one is making fun of you yet. You just have to meet a few of us and then they will start making fun of your crooked exhaust.

It is looking like my 6sp conversion is coming sooner rather than later.

[hahnmgh63]

May have missed it but are you dropping the whole Engine/Tranny? Most I think drop it with the cradle still attached, that way you don't have to worry about blocking everything so neither the engine or tranny pan get damaged. While you've got it out you will need to preventatively replace a few things, not as much preventative needed I think with the manual as it will be easier getting at the back of the engine from below. Bufkin Coolant pipe comes to mind ($25).

[RAUDI]

Thanks max and chung. ;-) hahnmgh63 I have the cradle out and the engine/tranny supported with the front mounts and jack stands. I actually ordered the Bufkin pipe Monday and got it Wednesday. Any other things I should grab?

[hahnmgh63]

One of the other MT6 guys can probably be of more help since I'm not sure how much more room you've got. The two (or in this case 4 items, 2 of each) things most do on a tranny swap/drop is the front O2 sensors and the EGT sensors, but with the MT you may be able to do these anytime without too much work. The EGT sensors are expensive.

[Chung]

I think valve cover gaskets are a good idea. I know my right one seeps a little but removing the engine for it is silly.

[ttboost]

That doesn't seem very nice...This makes my 3rd major project car. Unless I come into a ton of money I don't see any way to out grow this car. It has everything I need. 4 doors, all wheel drive, child harnesses, heated seats, 8 piston brakes, 2 turbos, 8 cylinders.


Just funnin with ya...just seems to be trend here lately...and for what it's worth, I said the same thing as you... until I found everything I was missing...2 doors, rear wheel drive, loaded to the gills, stupid monstrous ceramic brakes, 2 turbos and 12 cylinders...and runs 10's with a flash...

[Chung]

Just funnin with ya...just seems to be trend here lately...and for what it's worth, I said the same thing as you... until I found everything I was missing...2 doors, rear wheel drive, loaded to the gills, stupid monstrous ceramic brakes, 2 turbos and 12 cylinders...and runs 10's with a flash...

Hey we have two turbos :)

[RAUDI]

No actual progress to report right now, but I do have some parts updates.

Tip to 6mt kit from audis4parts has made it's way to El Paso and should be here by Tuesday.

Bufkin Pipe arrived last week.

Smoked tail lights arrived this week. (not project related, but I like them and one of mine is cracked)
ABS controller arrived today.

14342143431434414345143461434714348

[MaxRS6]

Inspect those exhaust manifolds while they are near ya

[DHall1]

I got a spare set of 50k exhaust manifolds for that rainy day. It may take 20 years for me to get 150k on either of my cars but I got the manifolds.

[RAUDI]

What did you guys do about the tip paddles on the steering wheel after you got the manual transmission?

[N_Stamp]

Remove the tip paddles with your proper torx screw wrench. Remove dremel from box and go to work. I cut mine out and they look great, of course I sanded them twice to get them smooth. Someone needs to fab a cover plate :)

[RAUDI]

Thanks N Stamp. I'll get to those once this debacle is through.

[RAUDI]

Axle guards removed using a 6mm Hex wrench and 6mm hex socket with extension.

143511435214353143541435514356

[RAUDI]

Intercooler pipes removed with regular #2 screwdriver and 5mm hex wrench

143571435814359

[RAUDI]

Left downpipe removed. Tools; 13mm wrench, 13mm socket, 16mm socket, swivel, 17mm wrench, extensions, 22mm wrench

downpipe bolts are also 12mm triple squares, but I found them easier to take out with the 16mm socket

14360143611436214363143641436514366

[alrightroad]

Progress looks good.

[RAUDI]

Got it out at the cost of a swivel joint and a bruised thumb.

14374

[RAUDI]

Small pry bar on the flywheel teeth with a 10mm triple square seated in a 13mm socket using a 15" 1/2" drive breaker.

1438314384

[RAUDI]

The top bolt was a bit trickier than i expected, but got to it with the turbo in place. Did have to give it a little pry to get it through the tight opening and a tap with the dead blow to unseat it from the block.

143851438614387143881438914390

[MaxRS6]

Small pry bar on the flywheel teeth with a 10mm triple square seated in a 13mm socket using a 15" 1/2" drive breaker.

1438314384

Those suckers were tuff last time mine was pulled. The rear main seal showed some minor leakage..so I had the tech replace it while in the area. Congrats on the progress!

[RAUDI]

I can't imagine how hard torquing these down is. There isn't much to grab to stop the flywheel from spinning. Am I crazy or is the rear main seal on this engine 300 bucks?

[MaxRS6]

Yep- $3 bills- the indy tech said ouch when I told him da price. Heck if I wanted it put back together and it get worse- I would have to bang my head on the tree- again

[Bigglezworth]

I can't imagine how hard torquing these down is. There isn't much to grab to stop the flywheel from spinning. Am I crazy or is the rear main seal on this engine 300 bucks?Geeze guys. Source some decent ARP alternates that have BETTER bolt patterns, but same pitch/dia and install those instead of the crappy triple square bolts. Same goes for C/V axles. ARP Torque Converter bolts are rated at 200,000 psi and come with hardened parallel-ground washers. Used on thousands and thousands high power race engines, so this application is a piece of cake. Would well believe they would have suitable fasteners to replace the OEM fasteners for both TC and C/V's.

http://arp-bolts.com/

[MaxRS6]

^Won't it reduce the resale value not being OEM??? Heck if I want to try to sell Crazy and have to disclose I have ARP bolts..;0

[Bigglezworth]

Gawd no. An improvement and then some. When (and if) I do a full rebuild of #2 here in order to extract power that rivals or exceeds what the same slug puts out in the Gumpert Apollo, I will be looking to swap out all rod bolts & head bolts with ARP replacements while at the same time putting in an ARP stud kit for the heads. I have utilized ARP fasteners the engines in my NSX and my GNX both. The Buick pushes out more than 28psi of boost so there is no compromizing when it comes to rod bolts, mains, heads, TC, etc. IMO

[MaxRS6]

Uhhhh- I was j/k. My car isn't exactly OEM (KW's, APR, Miltek, and the beat goes on...;\0

edit: Where is the stud kit for the heads listed on the ARP site?

[Bigglezworth]

Sorry. Of course. :) I haven't gone alookin through their cataloge to confirm if a stock part # exists for our engine, but even if it doesn't, a call to them is certain to go a long way in confirming what can be put together as a kit for rods, mains, heads, TC, etc.

[SteveKen]

I can't imagine how hard torquing these down is. There isn't much to grab to stop the flywheel from spinning. Am I crazy or is the rear main seal on this engine 300 bucks?

My kit includes new flywheel bolts (custom length) that are socket head cap screws that use an 8mm hex. They're a lot easier to tighten, torque and remove, etc. I've always used the crank lock pin to secure the crank for removing and installing the flywheel/flexplate bolts.

The RMS is expensive because it's the whole seal with the aluminum housing piece. I recall that Tozo told me that he was trying to cross reference just the seal itself, but I don't think he had any success.


Geeze guys. Source some decent ARP alternates that have BETTER bolt patterns, but same pitch/dia and install those instead of the crappy triple square bolts. Same goes for C/V axles. ARP Torque Converter bolts are rated at 200,000 psi and come with hardened parallel-ground washers. Used on thousands and thousands high power race engines, so this application is a piece of cake. Would well believe they would have suitable fasteners to replace the OEM fasteners for both TC and C/V's.

http://arp-bolts.com/

McMaster Carr is a good cheap source for the screws that attach the prop shaft and inner CV flanges. Just make sure you get ones with sufficient yield strength.

[TozoM8]

I sure did. Timken 716102 from the dealer. It is OD 105mm ID 85mm W 11mm. I have a picture of it just don't know how to post it.

[DHall1]

Oh hell yeah, you mean we don't have to replace that whole assembly for the rear main seal?




I sure did. Timken 716102 from the dealer. It is OD 105mm ID 85mm W 11mm. I have a picture of it just don't know how to post it.

[lswing]

I sure did. Timken 716102 from the dealer. It is OD 105mm ID 85mm W 11mm. I have a picture of it just don't know how to post it.

Email it to me and I'll post it...

When you type a reply in here, there is an icon up top to load an image, you can browse to your computer to the file.

BTW, trans gets looked at Thurs or Monday, busy week, thanks!

[RAUDI]

Today's progress was bittersweet.
Good:
I got my kit from audis4parts.com
Powerwashed all parts that I received and all that have been removed so far
Got everything removed from the stock transmission; clips, oil lines, shift cables..
Got all but 2 of the transmission bolts out

Bad:
Center section of the manual transmission is rusty as sin. Going to have to blast it and paint it before installation.
Got all but 2 of the transmission bolts out


14402144031440414405144061440714408

[RAUDI]

Carbon Dash trim with pry tool from aft most part upward and then the center then straight back.
Aluminum shift surround has 4 little plastic clips. 1 at each corner.
2 electrical connectors
4 10mm nuts
1 10mm nut
1 flashlight hanging from the mirror

The shift handle comes off by prying the aluminum sleeve down about 1/2", PULLING the selector button out and to the left, the pulling hard and up on the handle.

14419144201442114422144231442414425144261442714428

[RAUDI]

Someone please tell me there is a trick to easily getting out the last 2 bolts on the transmission that doesn't involve removing the right turbo.

[SteveKen]

Someone please tell me there is a trick to easily getting out the last 2 bolts on the transmission that doesn't involve removing the right turbo.

I assume you mean the passenger side turbo? you can actually get a socket on it ans loosen it, but you can't remove the bolt because you can't pull it out enough.

My trick has always been to remove the passenger side exhaust manifold with the turbo still bolted onto it. It gives you enough room to move the turbo enough to remove the bolt and get the trans separated.

I don't put the manifold back on until manual trans is bolted back up. Also, removal of the manifold makes the install of the bufkin pipe (if you're replacing it) and installation of the starter much easier.

[lswing]

Email it to me and I'll post it...

When you type a reply in here, there is an icon up top to load an image, you can browse to your computer to the file.

BTW, trans gets looked at Thurs or Monday, busy week, thanks!

Pics from Tozo...he says,
Here is the seal. I did not confirm if the seal works for all V8
1442914430

[4everRS]

Someone please tell me there is a trick to easily getting out the last 2 bolts on the transmission that doesn't involve removing the right turbo.
You can also partially disassemble the cold side of the turbo and it makes a bit more room to get on the bolt.

[RAUDI]

I didn't get to the car today, but thanks to Tozo I have a rear main seal gasket on the way to the local Audi dealer for 19 bucks.

Silly question here, do I just remove the transmission oil cooler now?

[Bigglezworth]

Silly question here, do I just remove the transmission oil cooler now?I would personally keep the cooler in operation and use it for additional oil cooling by daisy chaining it to the engine oil coller.

[RAUDI]

That is a great thought. I will look at it and see what that would entail before I make a decision. Thanks, Bigglezworth.

[DHall1]

Given the design of the factory oil cooler and the lines/fittings keeping it sealed. I dont know if I would go running additional piggy back lines. Just more potential leaks and big ones/under pressure and volume. eeeks

The north american cars all have the hot weather additional coolant rads so we should be good in that area.


That is a great thought. I will look at it and see what that would entail before I make a decision. Thanks, Bigglezworth.

[JSRS6]

It would actually be the same number of fittings and less line. On the driver side, you simply have a short u-shape hose made, and the passenger side connections would go to and from the oil cooler plate. X2 cooling!

[SteveKen]

I would personally keep the cooler in operation and use it for additional oil cooling by daisy chaining it to the engine oil coller.
I contemplated using the whole cooler by running a series circuit through the whole thing and nixed it. The ID of the oil cooler vs. the trans cooler is not the same and I was afraid that there might be a restriction of flow.

On the two RS6's I've converted, I just left the trans circuit open to the air. I suppose that they could be capped off, but I was concerned with any potential pressure changes that might happen in a sealed system.

On the S6 conversion I'm working on, I'll do the same thing or just buy an aftermarket Setrab unit (P/N 53-10749). The aftermarket Setrab piece will require custom lines and mounting, which has me leaning towards using the stock cooler. FYI, Setrab makes the RS6's stock oil cooler, too.



The north american cars all have the hot weather additional coolant rads so we should be good in that area.

BTW, I've got my fingers crossed with the setup I'm using on the avant conversion. I'm using an engine from Euro III setup that uses no aux cooling. The radiator is the same an S6/NA4.2 with only two openings (no second outlet) and uses no coolant solenoid, no aux coolant pump and no aux radiators. Less stuff to leak and cleans things up a bit.

[RAUDI]

Decision and progress update followed by a couple of questions.

I am going to do as Steve did with the oil cooler.

Got the shifter out and the dash off.

Is there anyone local to help me with the last 2 transmission bolts? I cannot see a feasible way to take off the right manifold and am worried (don't see how) about taking apart the turbo.

Next question. How do you get to the bolts for the pedal assembly? Are they only accessible once the tranny is out?

14454144551445614457

[RAUDI]

Also, I found my first broken part. The clip/mount left of the steering column that holds the kick panel up was previously broken and glued into place. It came off again this time.

[RAUDI]

OK, so I got a little bit of motivation and read the Bentley manual for a while and think I found the bolts for the pedal assembly. Then I went outside, excited to see a little progress. I was sorely disappointed. I got out the first one from the next paragraph and the 4 allen bolts from the ends of the strut tower bar.

If I'm correct, (1)one is on the back of the brake booster, (2)another is just to the passenger side and below it, (3)the third is just to the driver's side of the pass-through hole that will hold the hydraulic line to the master cylinder.

So here are my updated questions;

Do I have to remove the strut tower bar for the 2nd?

Is the 3rd one covered by some weird plug?

[SteveKen]

I do not remove the pedal assembly. I use the existing one, as it's the same as the one you have, and replace all the components. If you study the MT one you have in front of you, you will see how you can swap everything out.

It's a bit tricky, but I think it's easier. The hardest part is getting the rubber grommet centered in fitting properly in the hole where the clutch master cylinder goes through the firewall.

[RAUDI]

Thank you for that last post Steve. Pedals are now in. Going to line up the master cylinder in the morning.

14463

[RAUDI]

That master cylinder proved a bear. i broke the 90 degree fitting and lost a brass bushing behind the carpet. Got flustered and quit for the day.

[SteveKen]

That master cylinder proved a bear. i broke the 90 degree fitting and lost a brass bushing behind the carpet. Got flustered and quit for the day.

That sucks.

You will not be able to buy just the 90 degree piece and will have to replace the whole master cylinder. I know this because I received one from a junk yard with this piece already broken and had to get a new one. Maybe Audis 4 Parts might be able to part a used one out for you???

[RAUDI]

Well I guess the inability to buy just the 90 helps me make the decision I was considering. Since the master cylinder is a wearable item and most used ones are over 10 years old, I should just buy a new one.

I know jhm has the sachs oem for $75 bucks, but has anyone ever used an off brand? Some off brand ones are as low as $22.

And then at the other end of the spectrum is this thought. Are there any upgraded ones (other bore sizes) that would help with the higher clutch pressures of a stage 3 or stage 3+ and still be a bolt in?

Kind of a forum kudos here too. Thank you to everyone for your continued support and following. This project would be much more difficult without the knowledge from those of you that spearheaded this same venture.

[Zmey]

A lil pricey but take a look http://www.uspmotorsports.com/USPAudiclutchline-metalslaveconversion.html

[RAUDI]

A lil pricey but take a look http://www.uspmotorsports.com/USPAudiclutchline-metalslaveconversion.html

I don't think I can justify that right now. I already got a brand new sachs slave. If it ever breaks on me this will go in. I believe this to be a reliability upgrade, vice performance. Would you agree?

I ask one more time for someone who has done this in Hampton Roads to come and help me with the last 2 bolts above the starter. I will gladly buy you lunch or provide the beers for your assistance. You can even pet my dog. She needs it. See how sad she is. If you don't come, her sadness is your fault.

Below are pictures of potential lunch, the dog getting her paws degreased after "helping", and how sad she is without you to pet her.

144641446514466

[Zmey]

Haha love the offers. And yes its just a reliable piece.

[ttboost]

Congrats on your progress. The pedals proved to be the biggest challenge for me. I bought a complete pedal assembly as you did. I removed both bolts from outside to remove the whole assembly. I drilled a hole to get the lower torx bolt out. I put a rubber grommet in it afterwards. I used the stock master and slave I got with my pedals, I did however use a stainless flexible line from USP Motorsports. WAY easier to install and bleed.

[Korben007]

I will be removing my seats for pedal install!

[RAUDI]

I didn't do the wiring yet, but the pedal install only took about an hour, while I was "boozy", and after midnight. I don't know if I would bother taking out the seat.

I got 2 of the turbo bolts out tonight. The 3rd one is still holding strong. What a pain in the a. Drenched it in PB for the night and getting some impact wobble bits tomorrow on my way home.

Looks like the 50nm torque spec turned into 4,000,000^infinity nm over the last 11 years.

14467

[Turbowned]

Hey guys, quick question and I don't want to derail... what are the transmissions that can be used for the conversion? I've read 01E from the C5 A6 and Allroad and B5 S4, and the RS 4 transmission was used in the Champion Racing RS 6 but would the RS 4 trans work with SteveKen's adapter kit? What about the B6/7/8 S4 trans? Seen some newer S4 transmissions floating around and was just wondering...

[alrightroad]

Hey guys, quick question and I don't want to derail... what are the transmissions that can be used for the conversion? I've read 01E from the C5 A6 and Allroad and B5 S4, and the RS 4 transmission was used in the Champion Racing RS 6 but would the RS 4 trans work with SteveKen's adapter kit? What about the B6/7/8 S4 trans? Seen some newer S4 transmissions floating around and was just wondering...

Any 01E from B5 and C5 platform. NOT allroad unless you swap your rear diff to match allroad gearing. B5 RS4 has cooling lines... only difference. So, yes, B5 RS4 01E will work perfectly fine with some changes in lines to mate up to your radiator. B7-8's will not work but that is a question for Steve.

[Bigglezworth]

and the RS 4 transmission was used in the Champion Racing RS 6 but would the RS 4 trans work with SteveKen's adapter kit?The Sportec Ride that Corbett now owns also has the B5 RS4 tranny in it if I'm not mistaken.

[SteveKen]

Hey guys, quick question and I don't want to derail... what are the transmissions that can be used for the conversion? I've read 01E from the C5 A6 and Allroad and B5 S4, and the RS 4 transmission was used in the Champion Racing RS 6 but would the RS 4 trans work with SteveKen's adapter kit? What about the B6/7/8 S4 trans? Seen some newer S4 transmissions floating around and was just wondering...

I can say that they are similar in bolt pattern but different in other ways. Pic below of the 0A3 (on left) courtesy of Mr. Nuugen on QW & Motorgeek:
http://i706.photobucket.com/albums/ww67/nuugen/0160A3.jpg

versus the 01E courtesy of me :)

http://kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/trans.JPG

Many have also asked if the B7 RS4 flywheel is compatible with the adapter ans the RS6 and I can say that dimensionally it's different, too.

From a practical standpoint, the 01E has more aftermarket options if you want to go crazy beefing things up or changing gear ratios. Since the 01E was already in the C5 platform, the linkages, shifter, axles and prop shaft are guaranteed to fit. I can't say this 100% with the 0A3, but I'm guessing the axles & prop shaft should work. It also looks like the VR sensor location position is the same. I don't think that the front diff ratio is the same as the 01E, so you might need to change the ring & pinion on the rear diff.

[Turbowned]

Alright, so K.I.S.S. and buy an A6 2.7t manual donor car, basically. Thanks! :)

[RAUDI]

You can buy a donor, part one at a junk yard if you're lucky, eBay things, or go to one of the vendors that does a kit. I got my stuff from audis4parts.com for $1900 plus $255 for shipping from AZ to VA. And that included having the transmission opened up and "rebuilt", all of the pigtails, a brand new slave cylinder and a cnc'd piece of aluminum that seems to be some kind of driveshaft adapter.

[JSRS6]

Have a pic of the adapter? I guess they are trying to keep it simple by not having to change out any of the rear drive parts.

[DHall1]

Holy cow these guys are just down the road. I heard a rumor there was a shop in Tucson that did the conversions.

So with one of SteveKen's kits with flywheel and the package from audis4 your golden?

Hmmmm.....................

http://audis4parts.com/audi-a6-tip-to-6-speed-transmission-conversion-swap-kit/

They look like a salvage yard?


You can buy a donor, part one at a junk yard if you're lucky, eBay things, or go to one of the vendors that does a kit. I got my stuff from audis4parts.com for $1900 plus $255 for shipping from AZ to VA. And that included having the transmission opened up and "rebuilt", all of the pigtails, a brand new slave cylinder and a cnc'd piece of aluminum that seems to be some kind of driveshaft adapter.

[JSRS6]

Did you get your bolts out yet?

[RAUDI]

I am saving for Stevekens kit this and part of next month. Already have the ABS controller. Going to need tuning, various mounts and other things in the months after that..

I think they are a shop that buys audis at salvage and parts them for us. They were very nice to talk to upfront about lead times other things.

[RAUDI]

Oh, and the $750+ clutch these bad boys require.

[DHall1]

Yeah, they are really providing a service here. Good prices too.

I like it.


I am saving for Stevekens kit this and part of next month. Already have the ABS controller. Going to need tuning, various mounts and other things in the months after that..

I think they are a shop that buys audis at salvage and parts them for us. They were very nice to talk to upfront about lead times other things.

[RAUDI]

Did you get your bolts out yet?

I didn't. One left in the turbo, then it should be pretty straight forward after that. I got some new impact swivels that can (hopefully) handle the load.

Haven't had time to get out there yet. Hopefully tomorrow night.

[alrightroad]

Holy cow these guys are just down the road. I heard a rumor there was a shop in Tucson that did the conversions.

So with one of SteveKen's kits with flywheel and the package from audis4 your golden?

Hmmmm.....................

http://audis4parts.com/audi-a6-tip-to-6-speed-transmission-conversion-swap-kit/

They look like a salvage yard?

Dave, see Bryan there. Good guy. Have dealt with him on many occasions.

BTW, that aluminum adaptor is for using a TIP prop shaft in lieu of an original 6MT prop shaft.

[JSRS6]

Do you still have to change out the rear end?

[alrightroad]

Do you still have to change out the rear end?

Nope. Dont have to change rear end in any case with the 01E's (B5/C5, non-allroad). RS6 4.11 rear-end same as manual drivetrain on C5 platform.

[Chung]

interesting. They rebuilt the transmission for you? I have been figuring an extra $1000 for the rebuild kit from jhm. Did you need the 6mt wiring harness?

[Turbowned]

Interesting... I might just be lazy and let them send all this stuff to me. Then again, taking them out of an A6 donor would certainly give me a good primer on how to work on my car since I've never turned a wrench on an Audi before... Good to know the option is there.

Will the S4/A6 2.7t flywheel work if you're using a 6MT prop shaft? Found a guy local selling a brand new Fidanza flywheel for cheap. Dunno if I want an 11lb flywheel mated to a 4.2L though. It's one thing that I have one on my little 1.6L MR2...

[RAUDI]

It may also let you know just how much work is involved and stop you before you get started.

I didn't get a harness. I haven't done the wiring part yet, but Steveken made a long list of things needed. I can forward it to you or you can ask him for it. PM me your email if you want it.

[RAUDI]

I think the next step is to fill the car with gas and leave the heater on in the garage. That will get the transmission out for sure.

[MaxRS6]

^Hmmm...I'm not shore anyone done dat der yet...I need video if you go that route..;0

[RAUDI]

Haha. I'm getting so sick of these last 2 bolts. If I didn't have this forum full of people that had done this before I would say this is impossible. Got the 3rd bolt out of the turbo/manifold tonight after 2 days of soaking in PB Blaster it came right out.

Now I find the turbo to still be in the way though. I am going to suck it up and remove it tomorrow. Once it's out the final 2 bolts in the transmission should be easy...........said that before.

[RAUDI]

It's been a few days since I made a post. There has been a ton of progress. I'll put up the pictures when I get home. Next up is your kit, Steve.

[Beardown1]

That's great to hear......can't wait to see your updates.

[RAUDI]

Thanks Beardown. Where are you in southern MI?

I think I may have come across my first major issue with the 6's maintenance history. I removed the power assisted steering lines to take off the lock carrier and the fluid was red (and nasty). The pentosin fluid I got to replace it is green and mineral oil based. Has anyone ever run a mineral fluid that was red or did I get hosed and someone filled it with petroleum based?

[RAUDI]

Finally got the passenger turbo out. All of my earlier frustration was my own fault. I was working alone and didn't notice the 3 hoses at the firewall holding the engine up when I was try to lower it. Once those were off a buddy watched from above and, voila, the thing lowered down to a crazy angle and everything was way more accessible. (By RS6 standards at least) Once that was out of there the transmission was on the ground in less than 5 minutes. We had 3 people and a floor jack. It was a bit scary and my fat roll got pinched between the creeper and the bell housing on the way down. I'm glad the guys were there to help with this step and now that I know I wouldn't do this alone, and I don't usually worry about my own safety enough.

I used a scale to weigh the auto and the manual. Both are mostly drained. TC in the auto. No clutch pack installed.

Auto - 310#
Trans cooler lines - 4#
Manual - 155#

14505145061450714508145091451014511145121451314514

[RAUDI]

Today I removed the SAI / EGR system. It took about an hour and half. It was pretty straight forward. The engine had to be lowered to get them out. I don't know if it is possible without doing that, but I'm tired of riding the struggle bus so I just went ahead and did it. 034 block off plates are en route.

I left bracket #20 in place to hold another electrical connector.
The only tough part was #13. I used some mechanical agitation to get it up and out of it's home. It is nestled in between the hard coolant line and the block. I mostly expect it to break. I passed through easily enough though.

I will be retaining all of these parts in the event that I someday live in a state that checks for all emissions parts.

SAI / EGR parts weighed in at just about 11#



14515
14516

[RAUDI]

Got some of the small stuff this week for Christmas. Pretty stoked to have a proper set of triple squares to add to my arsenal. Also, picked up the ECS coated stainless steel brake line set as they were on sale for $110.

14517

[RAUDI]

This took a little longer than I had hoped, thankfully I am in no hurry. Money limited for a few weeks.

The plastics for the cooling ducts almost all cracked during removal and will not be reused. I reckon this means the wagners I/C upgrade is in my future. I used the caps that Steveken recommended in his post. I will put the picture up again in case someone is following this one. They worked perfectly.

14525

This is the first task that I decided breaking something was worth it. Steveken lowered his steering rack to get #32 out. I cut it off from the bottom and left the nipple of #32, #34, #34, and #35 abandoned in place to avoid doing that.

14519

I also left #24 and #23 in for now. I will get those out when I disassemble the lock carrier to clean the fins of all of the cooling systems with the bubbly stuff designed for the fins of home a/c heat exchangers.

Aux Radiator System (less #32 and #24) - about 11# plus whatever the fluid would have weighed.

1452014521145221452314524

[RAUDI]

All in all it was a very productive weekend. Got a lot done. Found a lot more to do. Decided to go ahead and do the timing job while this is all opened up. I still haven't seen how the passenger manifold comes out with the engine in, but I want to put in the Bufkin pipe while this all torn into too. Still quite a bit of cleaning and refurbishing that can happen while I save the rest of the money for the adapter/starter kit. Almost there. We'll see how the holidays treat the old wallet.

Happy Holidays.

Greg

[RAUDI]

Been another week since there were any posts made. Status update list below:

Christmas - Got a sweet shirt
Yesterday - Pulled the engine.
Yesterday - Found that my coolant reservoir had been cracked and leaking. That left a nice bit of corrosion in there for me to get removed too.
Yesterday - Found my front engine mount to be broken. This could easily have been my fault from lowering the rear of the engine with it in place.
Today - Got someones old and junk stove from Craigslist.
Tomorrow - Clean engine
Tomorrow - powder coat various parts, to include the valve covers while I change the gaskets.
Tomorrow - bufkin pipe
Weekend - Timing Belt component change
Weekend - Cleaning the engine bay.

14560145621456314561145641456514566145671456814569

[RAUDI]

More pictures


14570145731457114572

I don't know why some of these are improperly oriented or how to fix it. Hopefully you get the idea.

[RAUDI]

I also forgot to mention that I have been compiling a lot of things in my Google Drive for this project. Price lists, part lists, Elsa Win, and other things. I will grant forum member access if you PM me your email address.

If you want to add an item, you can email it to me and I will toss it in there for you.

[Bigglezworth]

Found my front engine mount to be broken. This could easily have been my fault from lowering the rear of the engine with it in place.

14566

Guaranteed...

[ttboost]

That's an annoying code if you have it. I had a left engine mount code since I bought my car...Finally changed them when I did my swap. Now's the time to fix them anyway...buy 2 new mounts with the harness bypass....you'll never have another engine mount code...

[SteveKen]

The front mount is definitely a hit in the pocketbook to replace. The one for the S6 and A6 4.2 is maybe $80 and the RS6 one is like $250.

Laws of supply & demand .... I just call it the RS6 tax.

[ttboost]

Yup..you have to pay if you wanna play..unfortunately you pay more to play with a RS6...

[RAUDI]

The front mount is definitely a hit in the pocketbook to replace. The one for the S6 and A6 4.2 is maybe $80 and the RS6 one is like $250.

I compared the part numbers and found the front one at JHM for $85. Am I missing something here? It looks exactly the same. I hope I'm right. It's already on my bench.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/torque-mount-snub-mount-034motorsport-density-for-b7-rs4-p-1612.html

[SteveKen]

I compared the part numbers and found the front one at JHM for $85. Am I missing something here? It looks exactly the same. I hope I'm right. It's already on my bench.

http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/torque-mount-snub-mount-034motorsport-density-for-b7-rs4-p-1612.html

Wow, I'm glad you found this. This is good to know. I ended up getting mine from a parts car, but might just get this one anyway.

I was going to actually going to supplement this with a trick someone else told me about. Wrap the outside of the mounting brackets with seatbelt material sandwiched between the washers & nuts to essentially become a max limit for the travel.

[RAUDI]

Glad to help. Do you happen to have a more detailed explanation of the wiring I need to do for the clutch, reverse, etc.? I don't even know where to start with that part.

[Bigglezworth]

Just to be clear, the mount you indicate you broke is a torque mount and NOT and engine mount. The engine mounts are down below andOEM units have a liquid coupling in them along with a sensor to confirm if they are 'broken'. You can swap these out for Stern engine mounts for a couple of hundred skins that come c/w sensor bypass so that you don't throw codes.

[RAUDI]

Just to be clear, the mount you indicate you broke is a torque mount and NOT and engine mount. The engine mounts are down below andOEM units have a liquid coupling in them along with a sensor to confirm if they are 'broken'. You can swap these out for Stern engine mounts for a couple of hundred skins that come c/w sensor bypass so that you don't throw codes.


You are correct. The torque, snub, lateral, upper, front engine mount is broken. ;-)

Part number 4B3199267. As Steveken noted the stock price is very high. Here it can be found OEM for $328.14.

http://www.ecstuning.com/ES371851/

[surferdude]

The front mount is definitely a hit in the pocketbook to replace. The one for the S6 and A6 4.2 is maybe $80 and the RS6 one is like $250.

Laws of supply & demand .... I just call it the RS6 tax.

I spoke with JHM a few days ago regarding this part for my 6mt S6. Granted, this is for an S6, not totally sure it's the same as the RS6. Looks the same to me. They don't carry the proper part, doesn't look like the RS4 one on their website will fit. I called 034 Motorsport, they don't know of anyone that carries it other than Audi. Here's the part from Audi, $95:

http://www.audiusaparts.com/parts/2003/Audi/S6/Avant/?siteid=215820&vehicleid=182770&section=ENGINE&group=ENGINE%20%2F%20TRANSAXLE&subgroup=ENGINE%20%26%20TRANS%20MOUNTING&component=Mount%20cushion

[RAUDI]

OK. I am pretty sure we can call this verified. The JHM website specifies it on the product page and here are picture of the stock one and 034 one that I bought from JHM. I verified the part number from our car and the RS4. 14575145761457714578They are the same.

[surferdude]

OK. I am pretty sure we can call this verified. The JHM website specifies it on the product page and here are picture of the stock one and 034 one that I bought from JHM. I verified the part number from our car and the RS4. 14575145761457714578They are the same.

Ok, good know. Looks the same as mine, but maybe there's a difference between RS6/S6 versions. I'm sure Steve K or others might know...I need a replacement.
BTW, kudos on your project, I can't imagine getting myself into a project like this! I barely had the desire to replace my 6-months new t-stat on my car.

[Bigglezworth]

Keep it simple guys. This is just a torque bushing with no electrical interface. It either bolts up or it doesn't....

[surferdude]

Keep it simple guys. This is just a torque bushing with no electrical interface. It either bolts up or it doesn't....

Alright, good point. My bushing tore away from the lower housing, wonder if I can just drive a bolt right through the whole thing and be done with it (and save some $) I know someone else did this 2 years ago, no problems so far. Sorry for sorta thread jacking.

[RAUDI]

It was $85 plus shipping for the solid upgraded mount. That is exactly 1/1000 of this car's purchase price. I'm not rich, but this machine deserves the right stuff.

For what it's worth. You would be in $10 for hardware, $20 for coolant, 2-3 hours labor to get to it, and and hour or 2 to modify your broken one with 10+ year old rubber.

[surferdude]

I agree, better to do it right while the front end is apart. Swinging by 034 to get one, just got off phone with them, looks like it should fit.

[RAUDI]

Must be nice to be able to just swing by a place with all the sweet goodies for the ride. I have to send them my turbos for upgrade after I get the adapter kit.

Back to topic. Valve cover gasket kit came in today and cam tension tool. Going out to change those and learn how to powder coat. wahoo.

[Zmey]

Must be nice to be able to just swing by a place with all the sweet goodies for the ride. I have to send them my turbos for upgrade after I get the adapter kit.

Back to topic. Valve cover gasket kit came in today and cam tension tool. Going out to change those and learn how to powder coat. wahoo.

Im sorry maybe i missed it somewhere, but what kind of upgrade are you doing to your turbos? Bigger compressor ? Anything with the hot side ?

Btw thank you for posting this thread, and updating your progress, it's been very educational and informative.

[alrightroad]

Looking good. Keep up the good work. Still trying to figure out how you were able to smile while under car after dealing with that 310# bulk.

[RAUDI]

Im sorry maybe i missed it somewhere, but what kind of upgrade are you doing to your turbos? Bigger compressor ? Anything with the hot side ?

I was kind of short with that. I am planning to get their wastegate upgrade to go with AMD ECU upgrade. My turbos seem to be in pretty good shape and I can't justify more money to clip the wheel or do a rebuild right now. With the 6mt in there they should be pretty easy to get to in the event of a failure.

Does anyone know who provides that service, or have a website or any kind of real information on it? I haven't found much on it. Is it less expensive than I am imagining?


Btw thank you for posting this thread, and updating your progress, it's been very educational and informative.

You are completely welcome. I wish I didn't find something new and broken at every turn, but it's a really good experience that I couldn't have done without this forum. It feels good to be contributing. I can't believe how much I'm learning. PM me your email address and I'll add you to my Google Drive Folder. I have been updating and tracking every penny spent, part numbers, data from members, manuals, and websites with information.


In other news, I am 80% sure I sold my wakeboard boat today. That will move this along quite expeditiously.

[RAUDI]

Looking good. Keep up the good work. Still trying to figure out how you were able to smile while under car after dealing with that 310# bulk.

It was such a relief to get it out. I had been stuck for a over a week by that point by the last 2 bolts blocked by the turbo.

Thank you. Other than the pinch to the fat tire around my waist, lowering it went pretty easily. I'll never do it again. Pulling the engine was a breeze and would have made all of this better.

[RAUDI]

I went ahead and mounted the 034 Density torque/snub/lateral/front/upper :addict: engine mount today to show that it really is the right thing. It went perfectly. It took me longer to remove dirt than to install it.

14583145841458514586

[RAUDI]

More goodies arrived today with another shipment expected tomorrow. It is pouring rain here so I can't play with my sweet new outdoor powdercoating stove yet.

Gates Blue Kevlar Timing Belt. I'm glad it came with stickers. I'm going to put them right on the bumper. That way everyone will know how super cool I really am.

145871459014588

Valve Cover gasket kit and Cam Tensioner tool

14589

[RAUDI]

Changed out the Bufkin Pipe.

NOTE: The 2 bolts inside the manifold seem to be a long shank 7mm hex. This is important because most tool kits skip this size.

NOTE 2: I did this pretty easily without removing the manifold at all.

Remove the 2 allens that hold on the pipes. One on the black pipe at the cooler. One at the rear of the block below the exhaust manifold. Take out the long banjo bolt and be sure to keep track of the washer between the sensor and cooler bracket.
14591

14592
Stock Pipe

14593

Side by Side

14594

Bufkin Pipe in its new home. I put a little white lithium grease on the o-rings to keep them from rolling out.

14595

14596

Don't lose the dowels like I almost did. I had it one and then spotted one that had fallen to the floor. It should have 2. There are 3 spots on the block, but only 2 on the bracket. Torque spec is 45 nm or 33 ft/lb

14597

This car is really testing the expoxy floor coating.....and my patience.

14598

Done with that.

[Bigglezworth]

NOTE: The 2 bolts inside the manifold seem to be a long shank 7mm hex. This is important because most tool kits skip this size.As I mentioned in the other thread that I've been performing pretty much verbatium the same things, I wasn't so lucky in getting the exhaust manifold off and had to abandon a specialty 7mm Allenhead inside the exhaust manifold access port after it stripped out the head and wasn't able to be removed. Glad no one else has had that hell. As for fluid on the floor, it seems to keep coming and coming doesn't it. Once you remove non-RS oil cooler, it seems the coolant and oil both from that unit keeps on leaking for hours. Just when you think it's empty, you turn it 90 deg's and more fluid seems to come out... I have an uncle that is a machinist and he machined me up a trio of the coolant couplers similar to the James Bufkin units. Still a wonder why this part was never aluminum.

[RAUDI]

As I mentioned in the other thread that I've been performing pretty much verbatium the same things, I wasn't so lucky in getting the exhaust manifold off and had to abandon a specialty 7mm Allenhead inside the exhaust manifold access port after it stripped out the head and wasn't able to be removed. Glad no one else has had that hell. As for fluid on the floor, it seems to keep coming and coming doesn't it. Once you remove non-RS oil cooler, it seems the coolant and oil both from that unit keeps on leaking for hours. Just when you think it's empty, you turn it 90 deg's and more fluid seems to come out... I have an uncle that is a machinist and he machined me up a trio of the coolant couplers similar to the James Bufkin units. Still a wonder why this part was never aluminum.

Yikes! I missed that part of your job before. I'm going to go review yours.

You read my mind about the fluid. I had just mopped the floor, thinking that this would be a quick and clean job. It was quick. It wouldn't surprise me if I lost 20% of all of the fluids right onto the floor during all of this. wipe, wipe, wipe, wipe, wiping it up.

[RAUDI]

Does anyone know if I will need to take off my valve cover to replace the cam seals that come with the Timing Belt kit?

[Bigglezworth]

Does anyone know if I will need to take off my valve cover to replace the cam seals that come with the Timing Belt kit?
Nope. Replaceable from the front once you've removed the cam sprokets.

[RAUDI]

Thank you, Bigglezworth. Doing my valve covers today then. Heading out to play around now.

[JSRS6]

its addicting, isnt it? i cant wait to do mine.

[RAUDI]

I am thoroughly addicted, JRSS6. I feel like I find something new that needs to be done to complete anything I go to do. It's a seemingly never ending loop.

Special tools came for the timing belt job.
1459914600
I got the valve covers off today.
14603146011460214608
Does anyone know what this green clip is? There are 2. One on each side. The harness connectors are brown and green. I noticed that one was broken. They both disintegrated upon inspection.
146041460514606
I had to set up the kerosene heater outside and aim it at the powerwasher for 10 minutes to thaw it out enough to use it. Powerwashed the covers and the engine mount brackets.

Walked over to the local machine shop and they let me use their blasting booth to clean them up. They have corrosion damage and should probably be replaced, but that is out of my budget. They were not and will likely not leak in the future. It looks like someone tightened one of the corners too much and cracked it. (external to the sealed area) I should have some more pics of that tomorrow, but for now I have this one.(post blasting)
14607

[Zmey]

Does anyone know who provides that service, or have a website or any kind of real information on it? I haven't found much on it. Is it less expensive than I am imagining?


Scroll-http://scrollproducts.com/en/turbo-rebuild-service rebuilds $1300-1500 they can also upgrade wastegates and other things on request.(for additional$$$)

midwest turbo connections-http://midwestturboconnection.com/ rebuilds ~$1000

loba-http://www.loba-motorsport.com/shop/audi/rs6/c5-4.2-t-v8-331353-kw-450480-ps/31/lo650-rs6-upgrade-sport-turbochargers?c=39 lol.. if you ignore the price and scroll to the bottom of the page, its saying that they can overhaul your original rs6 turbo to LO650 spec ~$2700 i think this is by far the most complete turbo upgrade, if you read through the list of things that they modify. i know you are on a budget, so maybe for future consideration.

And this is just my opinion, but i would probably not modify my wastegates with 034 if youre not going to rebuild your turbos. You'll be putting a lot more stress by keeping them in boost longer and create more heat.

[hahnmgh63]

I know my Scroll Turbos, rebuilt to stock spec (with the newer K04 updates) would boost 23psi when I had a disconnected Turbo pressure sensing hose so I don't think for the price you can ask for much more than that. I'll never normally boost over 16~17psi.

[alrightroad]

The broken green clip looks like a knock sensor connector. one on each bank.

[alrightroad]

Saul, who is on this forum every once in a while has just what you need!... http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Audi-VW-Knock-Sensor-Part-054-905-377-H-from-low-mile-2003-RS6-/131083759137?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e85336e21&vxp=mtr

[Bigglezworth]

The broken green clip looks like a knock sensor connector. one on each bank.Bingo. There's two of them. You will want to either cut and splice in the new end, or hopefully be able to remove the wire connectors from the space houseing and reinstall the wires that are already on your engine. These mount under the intake, so you will want to do one or the other....

[RAUDI]

Powdercoated the valve covers today. It was my first ever attempt at it. They came out ok. Good enough for a part that is almost never seen for sure and gives them a bit more resistance to corrosion/pitting. I had to buy a 15 foot long piece of 600 volt extension cord at 10/2 size and a plug to adapt the oven to plug into my dryer outlet. It'll be fine as long as I never use the oven and the range. That being said. I will remove the coils on top to prevent that from ever happening.

1463014631146321463314634

[RAUDI]

I took off the toothed/timing belt today to inspect the area around the head and the half moon seal while I had the valve cover off. I will probably regret this later, but I didn't change it. There is no evidence of it ever leaking.

Took some pictures of toothed belt removal. I think my timing gears were not installed exactly before. When I spanned the VAG timing bar across the cams, the crank was off of TDC by at least 2 degrees.
14635

The crankshaft locking pin goes in behind the driver's side engine mount.
1463614637146381463914640

This is the VAG camshaft timing bar.
14641

This is another example of how far off it was. This was with the crank pinned at #5 TDC.
14642

Used my buddy's new impact gun on the crank bolts. AWESOME. Of course one of them had to be a jerk though.
1464314644

[RAUDI]

Gapped all of the plugs to .026. Applied anti-sieze to the threads. Applied dielectric grease to the shank (NOT THE CONNECTOR)
14645

Here is the driver's side installed. I got impatient and tightened the stud a bit too much and stipped it out. Put some jb weld in there and put the stud back. I'll check it tomorrow to see if I need to tap it to he next larger size. I think it should be fine.
14647

Gratuitous selfy and puppy shots. You're welcome.
1464614648

[Bigglezworth]

I had to buy a 15 foot long piece of 600 volt extension cord at 10/2 size and a plug to adapt the oven to plug into my dryer outlet. It'll be fine as long as I never use the oven and the range. That being said. I will remove the coils on top to prevent that from ever happening.Hmmmm..... Not something I would do considering the amps for a dryer are far less than that of a stove with oven and range top...

As for the covers themselves, some fine sand paper to the ridges on the valve covers would be nice. Did that to the pair on the one car here and it looks less like a home made job in the end.

[Bigglezworth]

I think my timing gears were not installed exactly before. This is another example of how far off it was. This was with the crank pinned at #5 TDC.
14642That is awful! That's a full tooth for sure. Shody work by previous mechanic.

[RAUDI]

Hmmmm..... Not something I would do considering the amps for a dryer are far less than that of a stove with oven and range top...

As for the covers themselves, some fine sand paper to the ridges on the valve covers would be nice. Did that to the pair on the one car here and it looks less like a home made job in the end.


Dryer is a 30A circuit. I did the math for the oven only and it should be fine. The stove unit uses a 50A so you can have the broiler and 4 burners going at once. I will refrain from cooking beans, hot dogs, kraut and tea outside while I'm powdercoating. :-)

Do you mean knocking off the coating on the double lined ridges along the edges on the top to give some contrast? That sounds like it would look nice. Do you have any pictures of that?

[RAUDI]

That is awful! That's a full tooth for sure. Shody work by previous mechanic.

That's what I don't get. With the way the timing procedure reads and the way the cam gear attaches it should be perfect every time. The little 2 holed oval piece is keyed. The gears are infinitely adjustable to ensure a perfect alignment with the teeth on the belt and the crank. The only thing I can think is that they did it without the tool and "eyed" it across the banks then just moved the crank to suit their shoddyness.

[Beardown1]

Nice work Greg......thanks for the update!

[alrightroad]

So you lined up the cams with the notches on the CHAIN gears before locking down with the lock bar? (i.e., when valve covers were off). Its not unusual for the bar to be off like that when you put it on. The tensioners can twist the cams even with a little oil pressure. you might have seen one of the cams spin slightly when you de-tensioned the tensioner using the tool. one the chain is de-tensions, the lifter springs can easily spin a cam off by a little. this can cause that one bank look to be off timing slightly when the engine is at rest. I've seen it happen on my 2.7t. Goal is to pop the sprockets free after lining up notches on CHAIN gears with valve covers off and applying the bar. Naturally, not all timing belt jobs are done with valve covers off. but with them off, lining up cams perfectly is recommended. then tweak the lock bar and then lock down sprockets when you get belt on. sprockets should spin freely until the end of the TB job.

[Bigglezworth]

Do you mean knocking off the coating on the double lined ridges along the edges on the top to give some contrast? That sounds like it would look nice. Do you have any pictures of that?
Correct
14651

[RAUDI]

Correct
14651

That is nice. Makes it look at lot more attractive.

[RAUDI]

Correct
14651

That is nice. Makes it look at lot more attractive.

[JSRS6]

I agree, very snazzy. When I do mine, I want to do black PC and get some high temp red and do the tops of the ridges with it.

[JSRS6]

I think I'm gonna get rid of my cats Wednesday.

[RAUDI]

I think I'm gonna get rid of my cats Wednesday.

What do you have on it now? I want to hear one of these with stock se exhaust and no cats. Are you panning to do a pre and post dyno session?

[JSRS6]

4 cats and pipes to stock tips. No resonators or mufflers. Tune is coded for secondary o2 sensor delete. Just haven't gotten around to doing it myself. Dyno doubtful, consensus is about 20-30hp/tq though.

[Brav]

This took a little longer than I had hoped, thankfully I am in no hurry. Money limited for a few weeks.

The plastics for the cooling ducts almost all cracked during removal and will not be reused. I reckon this means the wagners I/C upgrade is in my future. I used the caps that Steveken recommended in his post. I will put the picture up again in case someone is following this one. They worked perfectly.

14525

This is the first task that I decided breaking something was worth it. Steveken lowered his steering rack to get #32 out. I cut it off from the bottom and left the nipple of #32, #34, #34, and #35 abandoned in place to avoid doing that.

14519

I also left #24 and #23 in for now. I will get those out when I disassemble the lock carrier to clean the fins of all of the cooling systems with the bubbly stuff designed for the fins of home a/c heat exchangers.

Aux Radiator System (less #32 and #24) - about 11# plus whatever the fluid would have weighed.

1452014521145221452314524

I used those exact NAPA Caps to cap off my coolant lines. One exploded (by firewall) and the other looks like its about to go any minute, with many cracks. I would NOT use those! will leave you stranded with no coolant :)

I plan on welding mine shut while all is out.

[RAUDI]

4 cats and pipes to stock tips. No resonators or mufflers. Tune is coded for secondary o2 sensor delete. Just haven't gotten around to doing it myself. Dyno doubtful, consensus is about 20-30hp/tq though.


Will you please do a before and after video so we can get as close of an idea as possible to the amount of extra noise? Also a report of drone before and after.

[JSRS6]

Of course.

[Bigglezworth]

I used those exact NAPA Caps to cap off my coolant lines. One exploded (by firewall) and the other looks like its about to go any minute, with many cracks. I would NOT use those! will leave you stranded with no coolant :)

I plan on welding mine shut while all is out.For arguement purposes, why could one not take the #30 back-flow valve, flip it 180 degrees, and mount it from the #36 hose and take the #29 hose and tie it in to the #19 T-stat take-off pipe? Hot flow can't bypass directly to the coolant tank which is what would happen if you simply took a hose and jumpered things from #19 (hot water) to #32 (cooled water).

http://www.rs6.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14519

[RAUDI]

I used those exact NAPA Caps to cap off my coolant lines. One exploded (by firewall) and the other looks like its about to go any minute, with many cracks. I would NOT use those! will leave you stranded with no coolant :)

I plan on welding mine shut while all is out.


Ok, well knowing that is a good thing to know. Did that happen right away or after a while?

[RAUDI]

For arguement purposes, why could one not take the #30 back-flow valve, flip it 180 degrees, and mount it from the #36 hose and take the #29 hose and tie it in to the #19 T-stat take-off pipe? Hot flow can't bypass directly to the coolant tank which is what would happen if you simply took a hose and jumpered things from #19 (hot water) to #32 (cooled water).

http://www.rs6.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14519


Hmm. These things seem very viable. If they work this would be a good option for someone that wanted to bypass the radiators and keep them in place. I worry about relying on a valve. Someone should try this.

[RAUDI]

Today I built a plastic bathtub below the engine bay. I sprayed the area with degreaser, let it soak, and then carefully powerwashed as much grime and general nastyness from the bay and suspension as I could. I did the engine too, VERY carefully. I followed up the cleaning with a nice long blast of heat from the kerosene heater to help remove the moisture.
1465214654

Replaced all vacuum lines with new silicone and small zip ties. I HATE removing Oetinger clamps. Installed the R1 diverter valves that BEARDOWN1 gave me when I saw him last month. Thank you again. Especially since one of mine broke while trying to get the Oetinger clamps off.
1465314658

Replaced the ABS module with the one from the W8 Passat today. Part #4B0614517AA
Thought the procedure for this was a little weird. Install brake fluid catch can on front left caliper. Press in the brake pedal (special tool, yeah right), open caliper bleed valve, shut caliper bleed valve, remove connections at pump, replace pump, replace lines, tighten, release pedal.
I guess this is to relieve pressure within the pump to minimize spillage. There was very little.

I removed the black clips and the round bushings then slid the pump out sideways.
146551465614657

[Bigglezworth]

Hmm. These things seem very viable. If they work this would be a good option for someone that wanted to bypass the radiators and keep them in place. I worry about relying on a valve. Someone should try this.The aux rad system relies on same said valve....

[RAUDI]

The aux rad system relies on same said valve....

I meant keep them in place for future reversion.

[ttboost]

Why did you replace the whole ABS module and not just the "dry" side? Was your module bad? All you have to do is unscrew the black electronic module and replace it with another. 6 torx screws, no fluids....

[kday]

Cool project. Cleaning an empty engine bay is very satisfying -- being able to get to all of that grime that you can normally see but not address.

Does replacing the ABS module fix the CEL issue by itself, or is ECU software modification still required?

[Brav]

Ok, well knowing that is a good thing to know. Did that happen right away or after a while?

One by firewall within 1-2 months, IIRC.

[Avus-RS6]

Cool project. Cleaning an empty engine bay is very satisfying -- being able to get to all of that grime that you can normally see but not address.

Does replacing the ABS module fix the CEL issue by itself, or is ECU software modification still required?

Proper ECU tuning is required to make it work right.

[RAUDI]

Why did you replace the whole ABS module and not just the "dry" side? Was your module bad? All you have to do is unscrew the black electronic module and replace it with another. 6 torx screws, no fluids....

I am changing all of the brake lines to SS and refilling the fluid with Racing Blue anyways so I just went ahead and popped it out. It was easy with the engine out. It also allowed me to clean the area under that and the pump next to it.

[RAUDI]

Cool project. Cleaning an empty engine bay is very satisfying -- being able to get to all of that grime that you can normally see but not address.

Does replacing the ABS module fix the CEL issue by itself, or is ECU software modification still required?

It still requires ECU modification. The AMD tune will not work with our stock ABS.

[RAUDI]

Proper ECU tuning is required to make it work right.

Just saw this. +1

[kday]

But just to be clear, you need to swap the ABS unit *and* tune the ECU to clear the CELs?

[RAUDI]

But just to be clear, you need to swap the ABS unit *and* tune the ECU to clear the CELs?

Yes. You need both.

You need the ECU tuning.

You need to swap the ABS unit. (or you can do the electronic side if you don't want to mess with the wet side as was mentioned by ttboost a few posts ago) There are 2 options for the ABS that Steveken told me should work. 4B0614517AA or 4B0614517E

[RAUDI]

I got the majority of my timing bearing and pulleys in the mail yesterday. (Europaparts missed one of my relay rollers, but shipped it out when I called them.)

I started with the hydraulic tensioner and that went fine. Then I went to put in the new thermostat and I broke off one of the bolts into the block. I gave up on that piece of crap click style torque wrench and immediately went to Sears to get a bar type. Hopefully my Snap-On clicker will be back from service soon. I was able to use the dremel to cut a groove in the bolt, put the screwdriver in it with pliers attached, then a friend tapped it with a hammer while I turned it. Got it out with no additional damage. Thank goodness.

1465914660

[alrightroad]

I got the majority of my timing bearing and pulleys in the mail yesterday. (Europaparts missed one of my relay rollers, but shipped it out when I called them.)

I started with the hydraulic tensioner and that went fine. Then I went to put in the new thermostat and I broke off one of the bolts into the block. I gave up on that piece of crap click style torque wrench and immediately went to Sears to get a bar type. Hopefully my Snap-On clicker will be back from service soon. I was able to use the dremel to cut a groove in the bolt, put the screwdriver in it with pliers attached, then a friend tapped it with a hammer while I turned it. Got it out with no additional damage. Thank goodness.

1465914660

nice work!

[RAUDI]

nice work!

Thank you. All in all I was as happy as I could be. It may have been a pain in the rear and added hours to the simple task, but luckily I am in no hurry and it was not as bad as it could have been.

[RAUDI]

Here is a picture of all of the timing belt parts and the front of the block all cleaned up with them installed. (sans relay rollers and belt until tomorrow)
1466114662

I replaced 2 of the obvious cam seals. Are the other 2 the ones with the black caps?
14663146641466514666

Pulled the toothed belt sprocket and replace the crank seal as well. I had to use a screwdriver to get the seal puller into this one. I was careful not to damage anything. Reinstalling to the bolt that holds the sprocket in was crazy. Specs call for a new one. I didn't do that. It goes to 200nm and then another 180 degrees. I only got about 100 degrees before I felt like I was going to break something. My 1/2" breaker bar in the picture was very visibly bending. I stopped at that point.
14667146681466914670

The other relay will be here tomorrow. I will be finishing up the TB job and wiring up the new "custom" bullet connectors for the knock sensors to replace the heat damaged stock clips. Then it's on to wiring the brakes/reverse and installing the shifter. Soon I'll be out of things to do until I get more moolah. Speaking of that, I placed my deposit with Steveken yesterday. I am very excited.

[Bigglezworth]

I think you need a cleaner 10 yr old vehicle to work on..... Egad. Has that car even seen rain?

[P1054]

Yes. You need both.

You need the ECU tuning.

You need to swap the ABS unit. (or you can do the electronic side if you don't want to mess with the wet side as was mentioned by ttboost a few posts ago) There are 2 options for the ABS that Steveken told me should work. 4B0614517AA or 4B0614517E

On the ABS unit subject: those two part numbers are for which cars? One is the W8 Passat, what is the other? Also, how much does the module (complete with both dry and wet side) cost? I'm curious because I think mine may have an issue (the ABS and ESP lights come on intermittently, the code says "open or short to +" on the rear right wheel speed sensor but the sensor is still good). If it is part of the 6-speed swap, that's just one more reason on an ever-growing list for me to pull the trigger on the project!

Fantastic work by the way, both with the project and the documentation here! Keep it up, and good luck going forward!

[hahnmgh63]

Maybe one of the guys who have done the swap will sell you their old ABS unit or at least the dry side?

[RAUDI]

Maybe one of the guys who have done the swap will sell you their old ABS unit or at least the dry side?

I may know someone with a very clean one..... oh. ME! :-)

[Korben007]

I'm about to start tearing apart my RS6. Already got an S6 ABS setup. Car has 60k. ABS works great. Will be for sale.

[RAUDI]

On the ABS unit subject: those two part numbers are for which cars? One is the W8 Passat, what is the other? Also, how much does the module (complete with both dry and wet side) cost? I'm curious because I think mine may have an issue (the ABS and ESP lights come on intermittently, the code says "open or short to +" on the rear right wheel speed sensor but the sensor is still good). If it is part of the 6-speed swap, that's just one more reason on an ever-growing list for me to pull the trigger on the project!

Fantastic work by the way, both with the project and the documentation here! Keep it up, and good luck going forward!


I believe the other one comes from the C5 S6. I feel like I got a great deal at $160 shipped. I think they generally go for over $200. Also, you should now have access to the Google Drive. Let me know if you have things to add.

[RAUDI]

Got the timing finished up today. Getting the cams lined up with the bar was kind of a chore, but I got it after a few minutes. Here it is with everything and then the covers. There isn't a picture of it, but I installed the dampener also. It went in at 22nm, tightened in a star fashion, with blue loctite. I've been using torque specs and blue on everything, but I'm especially worried after Beardown's experience. Wish me luck.
1468514686

Changed out the fuel filter and a couple of the hose clamps. The fastener that holds the pump in place is an M8 triple square. Everything on this car seems so well planned out, except the random fastener choices. Its like they rolled a die for each piece and sometime a wildcard allowed a throw for every hole. My ratchet came out from under the car all clean and new after a nice bath in 93 octane.
1468714690

Also changed out the air filter and cleaned the air box. I took a picture of how filthy it was for you, Biggelzworth.
1468814689

[Chase]

Here is a picture of all of the timing belt parts and the front of the block all cleaned up with them installed. (sans relay rollers and belt until tomorrow)
1466114662

I replaced 2 of the obvious cam seals. Are the other 2 the ones with the black caps?
14663146641466514666

Pulled the toothed belt sprocket and replace the crank seal as well. I had to use a screwdriver to get the seal puller into this one. I was careful not to damage anything. Reinstalling to the bolt that holds the sprocket in was crazy. Specs call for a new one. I didn't do that. It goes to 200nm and then another 180 degrees. I only got about 100 degrees before I felt like I was going to break something. My 1/2" breaker bar in the picture was very visibly bending. I stopped at that point.
14667146681466914670

The other relay will be here tomorrow. I will be finishing up the TB job and wiring up the new "custom" bullet connectors for the knock sensors to replace the heat damaged stock clips. Then it's on to wiring the brakes/reverse and installing the shifter. Soon I'll be out of things to do until I get more moolah. Speaking of that, I placed my deposit with Steveken yesterday. I am very excited.


You should really really replace that torque-to-yield bolt and get the 180 degree turn on it. And use a 3/4" or 1" breaker bar. Makes it easier.

[Beardown1]

Omg.....just look at the carbon deposits on the butterfly.......your a pig!!!! :race:

[RAUDI]

You should really really replace that torque-to-yield bolt and get the 180 degree turn on it. And use a 3/4" or 1" breaker bar. Makes it easier.

I will look into getting one today, before I get anymore of it together.

[RAUDI]

You should really really replace that torque-to-yield bolt and get the 180 degree turn on it. And use a 3/4" or 1" breaker bar. Makes it easier.


OK.....I ordered it for $12.95. Ridiculous. There was a silver lining. When looking at the site I noticed they had one set of these mounts left for $150! I got them. So thanks for being my quality assurance officer, Chase. I shouldn't have been skimping in the crank/timing area anyways.

http://www.europaparts.com/034motorsport-motor-mount-set-motorsport-v8.html

[RAUDI]

Omg.....just look at the carbon deposits on the butterfly.......your a pig!!!! :race:

Good eye, smartarskie. ;-) You know that really was bothering me! I am planning to do an intake de-carb kit when it's back on the road.

[Bigglezworth]

I thought you were doing a 6mt swap here. All these pages suggest you're doing a rebuild/detail getting things ready for a show? If I did something like that here, it would be filthy within a week after leaving the garage.

[RAUDI]

I thought you were doing a 6mt swap here. All these pages suggest you're doing a rebuild/detail getting things ready for a show? If I did something like that here, it would be filthy within a week after leaving the garage.

The project evolved when the engine was pulled. Anything that requires it being out to get changed is getting done. The 6MT is still happening. (deposit to Steveken happened this week) There should be another large purchase order (kit/clutch/intercoolers/tuning) at the end of the month. Since I'm not in a hurry, I'm just trying to be as thorough as possible. I can only afford to do this once. I probably should not have even done it. It is causing......turbulence.

Even as a daily driver it should stay pretty clean down here in the not-so-dirty south.

[Dmb408]

I just got my car back from a timing belt job the other day and my indy was explaining the crank bolt to me because I had the seals done. If I recall from what he said the other day, the extra torque actually lengthens the threads and the bolt is designed to do that?

[Dmb408]

Oh and obviously that is to lock it into place and precludes the need for any type of lock washer.

[hahnmgh63]

In the shop manual the crank bolt is a replacement item which yes, must mean it is also a stretch bolt. I replaced mine, I don't think it was very expensive.

[RAUDI]

I have it on order now. 12.95 from europaparts added to my order. I was just being cheap. It was wrong. I knew better.

Part number: 078105229D

[Dmb408]

Yea stretch bolt, that's what he said, I couldn't remember but hahn got it.

[RAUDI]

I did very little for the car this weekend. The only forward progress was the Gurney Flap modification. It went ok. I used aluminum insect screen instead of the normal grill mesh to make it a bit finer of a filter. I put a little silicone gasket maker around the edge to prevent them from fraying in the future. Tomorrow, after it dries, I will trim the mesh back to the edge of the sealant and it will be done.

If anyone is local and wants the screen I have a lot available.

$8 - Screen (used about a dollar's worth)
$11 - 2 lengths of aluminum stock
$4 - 2/3 tube of RTV silicone
$2 - Aluminum Rivets/tape/dremel disc

Total = $25
1473014731147321473314734

[RAUDI]

Very little progress so far this week. Waiting on some parts.

Started gutting the precats. Got annoyed. Stopped.

Installed the front stainless brake lines. Found a crack in my brake fluid reservoir. STUPID expensive piece of plastic. Talked my local dealer down to $111. That will be here Thursday. I've officially found the first thing that is forcing me to get VAG-COM. Now that I've replaced the wet side of my ABS pump I have to run the program for that. I think I now understand why you guys were mentioning just changing the electronics. I didn't understand the easier meant the aftermath.

Nature is giving my rotors a nice Laguna Seca Sunset orange color.
147391474014741

[RAUDI]

Continuing my holding pattern until more funds are available. Should be making my last major purchases at the end of the week and getting this wrapped up by the end of the month. I saw JRS6 this weekend and heard his beast. It sounds great.

I added a for sale ad on the other part of the forum. It has the stock parts that I'll no longer be using.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/26575-FS-Stock-Parts-from-RS6-6MT-swap

[JSRS6]

It was good seeing you again Greg. Hopefully next time we are both less busy! :hihi:

[Bigglezworth]

Hmm. These things seem very viable. If they work this would be a good option for someone that wanted to bypass the radiators and keep them in place. I worry about relying on a valve. Someone should try this.Completed and working just fine.
http://www.rs6.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14837&d=1391819951
http://www.rs6.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14836&d=1391819060

[RAUDI]

Completed and working just fine.
http://www.rs6.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14837&d=1391819951
http://www.rs6.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=14836&d=1391819060


That would have been excellent. I cut that pipe to get it out at the steering rack already though. :/ Anyone have one laying around before I get this stuff put back in?

Progress update. All major parts are on order. Wagners, Steveken kit, JHM full shifter treatment (everything), Meyle 12 piece control arm set (RS6 specific), hotchkiss sways, Spec stage 3+ clutch, 034 engine, shock, and trans mounts......full list in my Google Drive.

I'm shooting for post Valentine's weekend start up. duh Duh DUH! (parts delivery dependant)

[RAUDI]

I just got back from a week long business trip and was happy to see the giant boxes that had arrived.
Thanks to Steveken for getting that adapter kit here on time.
JHM got most of the stuff here. There is still more to go from them, but I do have enough to get back to work on the car.
SPEC has not yet even built my clutch yet, so I continue to wait. That piece being integral to the previously hoped goal of getting it together this weekend means that it won't happen....

Prepare for the next few pics. Audi Parts Porn.

[RAUDI]

Steveken's adapter kit. Great looking parts. Excellent packaging.

14851148521485314853148541485514856

[RAUDI]

Brand spanking new key. It will be my first VAGCOM experience. :)
14857

034 Engine Mounts and resistors

148581485914860

034 Transmission mounts

14861

[RAUDI]

Spring mounts

14862

Meyle 12 piece control arm kit.

14863
Hotchkis Sway Bar kit

1486414865

Advanced Automotion reverse light and neutral safety TIP to 6MT adapter

14866

Ross-Tech USB VAGCOM cable

14867

USP Motorsports braided clutch master to slave line

14868

[Bigglezworth]

14856Geezus there's a lot of mass there....

[RAUDI]

JHM complete solid shifter including all bushing, upgraded cross bar, updated base, and centering spring. (centering spring still on order)

148691487014871148711487214873

[RAUDI]

Wagner Intercooler Setup

It did experience a little damage in shipping. It is minor though and nothing a rock won't do in the future.

148741487514876148771487814879

[JSRS6]

Lol, I would still bend then back straight with some forceps if I were in your shoes. Knowing how OCD you are, you probably will too.

[RAUDI]

Geezus there's a lot of mass there....

That's what she said?

[RAUDI]

Lol, I would still bend then back straight with some forceps if I were in your shoes. Knowing how OCD you are, you probably will too.

You don't know me! :-/


Already did it.....

[JSRS6]

Ha. I had a feeling. Starting to pack stuff I don't use this weekend.


You don't know me! :-/


Already did it.....

[Bigglezworth]

My gawd there's a host of $$$ being injected in to your car. Holy crap.

[RAUDI]

My gawd there's a host of $$$ being injected in to your car. Holy crap.

Yes. Yes there is. This is why it is taking so long. I don't to take it apart 10 times. So I scrimped and saved for the last 4 months and used my tax return to get it all. The tune should be just about all I have left, but it will be my luck that the DRC will go out right after I get it all back together .....

[JSRS6]

Just go ahead and eliminate all possible points of failure while it's apart :hihi:

[RAUDI]

Just go ahead and eliminate all possible points of failure while it's apart :hihi:


Grrrr. I have to have limits. I have already exceeded those by a ton! If the tranny goes again, I'll get one that has been cryo'd. If the suspension goes, I'll get coilovers. If the engine goes, I'll kill myself.

[lswing]

Pull the DRC while you can, put in Koni Yellow Sports, you can get all four around $600, well worth it. Better level and ride...

[Korben007]

congrats! looks like an awesome build. You literaly just ordered almost all the same parts as me. I should have my StevenKen kit showing up any day now! Where did you source you Wagners from? Its one of the last things I need to buy.

[RAUDI]

lswing - I have done no research on this subject. 600 is tempting....... I'll look into it. Any choice links?

Korben - Nice! At my pace you'll probably still have it together before I do. Who are you using for a tune? I was pointed toward Mark at EFI express. He is almost done with his 6MT tune and his power tunes. He is also much easier to get a hold of than others. I got my Wagners through KMDtuning.com. Their usual price is 1490 shipped. I got them to match the Wagner USA price of 1450 shipped. The guy at KMD was nice too. I think his name was Seth, but don't quote me.

Group - I am considering using my stock intercooler ducts with the Wagners. Has anyone done this before? If so, please send me some pictures of the modified pieces. Feeler question; would anyone be interested in buying my carbon ducts if I went that route?

[lswing]

This to start, about 6-8 of us on here running them, great match with stock springs, really good ride height. Think it's the spendier one you need, thread has part #'s. I really liked DRC in corners, but my system was done, tired of messing with it.

http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/Susptabl.jsp?autoMake=Audi&autoModel=A6+4.2&autoYear=2003&autoModClar=

Here's the damn guy that started it all. http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/23946-Completed-DIY-DRC-removal-swap-with-Koni-Yellow-Sports

Very happy with the ride, firm on the softest setting. My DRC was scary as all hell near 100, car sits fine at 140 now...

[RAUDI]

I'm going to have to wait until DRC failure to do shocks or coilovers. Thank you for the links. I need to get carpet in my house more than I need to replace functional shocks right now. Maybe next year she can get a birthday present. :)

A couple more stragglers arrived today.
Rear Differential Mount and Silicone MAF seals

14884

[RAUDI]

This may have been mentioned before here or somewhere else, but I want to share it just in case.

I was going over my wiring harness and found some badly cracked brown(ground) and a red wires. I stripped away almost 2 feet of the main harness that contained the wire to see how bad it was. It continued like this all the way to the next main intersection. They were so bad that only about 1 inch in 12 still had any insulation at all. They were definitely grounded and I'm surprised there were no codes. I was going to fix them until I figured out they are wires to the SAI pump, which I have in a bucket and don't intend to reinstall. I have placed loom over all of the wires and taped it into place. I am going to removed the fuse for the SAI and call it abandoned in place. If I ever have to reinstall the SAI for some unforeseen reason I will re-wire it separate of the harness from the fuse all the way to the plug. If you are having issues with your SAI, inspect the wires. They were the only ones that had any damage.

[RAUDI]

SPEC marked my clutch as ordered!
I made some pretty good progress today.
Everything below is on the car:
Apikol Differential mount
Apikol MAF seals installed and MAF's placed in holes permanently. (removed from intake box)
JHM short throw shifter trio
JHM cross rod
034 Engine mounts
034 Engine mount resistors

Tomorrow I will finish the trim around the shifter and install as much of the adapter kit as I can without the clutch.

[Korben007]

Curious to see how you go about trimming the shifter surround. I'm nervous about messing up my CF!

[SteveKen]

Curious to see how you go about trimming the shifter surround. I'm nervous about messing up my CF!

I've done one CF surround and a few wooden ones. Chipped a wooden one when doing it. I prefer to be a bit more liberal with the Dremel and use one of the metal surrounds from the Allroad.

The holes are there for the self tapping screws on the backing piece. It's not a fun job.

Here's what mine looks like now, which is a mixture of a B5 and C5 surround. I'm going to probably overlay a dry carbon look to the wood and continue with the matte black powdercoat finish on the shiny trim and shift knob.

http://kendrish.com/galleries/blackS6/6spd_shifter.jpg

Here is the CF one without the ring
http://kendrish.com/galleries/RS6_2/shifter.jpg

[RAUDI]

Thanks for the pics Steveken. I'll post some pictures of the process later. My CF piece is already almost done so I can show. It will be like Steve's one on the bottom without the trim.

[RAUDI]

Luckily I had enough bezels in various states of (dis)repair to do a little kind of rough walkthrough.

Unmolested manual bezel
14895

Remove the plastic backing from both the manual and automatic bezels
14894

Place the manual ring on the automatic bezel and trace the inside to the bottom
1489614897

Carefully cut with dremel cut-off wheel staying inside the line. I cut the line, but at an angle that made the diameter larger on the bottom and narrower on the top. Once it is cut attach the ring to the newly cut bezel. I used a dremel grinding cylinder on low speed and a half round file to clean up the cut from the top to match the ring. (a small flush cut router bit would have been awesome here, but I was worried about chipping the clear on the carbon) Go slowly and test fit the boot often to see where more material needs to be taken away. Don't push hard or you'll cut the leather. Don't cut too much or you'll gap it.
14898148991490014901

ENJOY! I accidentally scratched mine a little, but at least the scratches are on a manual bezel in an RS6. :)
1490214903

[RAUDI]

GREG: 1
CONTROL ARM: 1
TIEBREAKER: TBA

Which one of these is not like the other?
149081490414905

Picture lower part numbers
14909

How pretty things can look. I was quite surprised just how bad my old ones were. I can't wait to drive this thing. It's going to be like a new car.
14906

[Beardown1]

Man you have like superhuman strength there bro!

[RAUDI]

Man you have like superhuman strength there bro!

The damn steel sleeve slid upward and the arm won't budge out. I'm going to have to order the special tool........
I let my temper get the best of me. I should have known the second a grabbed a sawzall when working on my Audi to walk out of the garage.

[JSRS6]

Don't worry Greg, I'll be up there soon for phone a friend.

[RAUDI]

Don't worry Greg, I'll be up there soon for phone a friend.

Would have used it today. I ordered the 5 piece OTC kit.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH7O/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#productDetails

[RAUDI]

Today's shipments came and are pictured below. I was very impressed with the quality of the SPEC clutch. Let it also be noted that it came with the lock washers and hex cap bolts to attach the pressure plate to the flywheel.

Front end suspension tool kit
1492914926

SPEC stage 3+
1492714928

[RAUDI]

The crankshaft end cap that must be removed. I used Steveken's method of tap and push. Not that it seemed to need it, but I also changed out the rear main seal once the cap was out and everything was all cleaned up.
14930

21/32 drill bit to bore the hole to the proper size for tapping. Tap with 3/4 - 10 tap by hand. Use plenty of oil. It even got smokey just doing it by hand. Be advised that you can drill and tap too far here. Go slowly and check your progress often or you will end up drilling and tapping your crankshaft also.
1493114932

Insert a socket or piece of rod into the hole. I used a 1/4" drive 10mm deep well socket
Insert the 3/4 - 10 bolt 2" long into your newly threaded cap and begin pressing it out. I used an impact gun and made quick work of it.
1493314934

Take out the socket and clean up your mess.
14936

Install the flywheel. Flywheel is keyed and holes only work one way. Steveken's kit is bad_ss. It is very well designed and everything fit great. Thanks again.
14937

Install the pressure plate
14938

Make sure you have the crankshaft position sensor removed before you try to mate the transmission to the block or it will take an extra hour and could damage it. Trust me.
14939

[RAUDI]

Got the transmission mated.
14940

Hopefully this will be the last picture of the every increasingly crowed garage with the engine out of the bay.
14941

Right side turbo mostly re-installed. Have to hook up the coolant and oil lines tomorrow. This was ridiculously hard and I could never have imagined doing this task under the car. I can't believe I started this project on my back. Never again.
14942

No pictures of using the new tools for the control arms, but it worked great and the lowers are on and ready to go. I'll do the uppers and tie rod ends once the car is back on it's sub frame.

Tomorrow after work I have to finish(start) gutting the cats, replace the crankshaft position sensor, and install the stainless clutch line. Then it is time to insert the thing. I'm hoping for a Saturday night / Sunday morning start-up.

[Korben007]

please let me know how the Crank Sensor and speed sensor swap over! Also are you gutting just the precats or all of them?

[nitrorocket]

What does that flywheel weigh?

[RAUDI]

please let me know how the Crank Sensor and speed sensor swap over! Also are you gutting just the precats or all of them?

Hopefully the crank sensor goes pretty smoothly. The one I messed up was from the original RS6 auto tranny. It is too long and was in the way. audis4parts.com was my source for the kit and they were kind enough to toss one in an envelope and overnight it to me for just the cost of shipping.

I will be gutting all of the cats. Now that I am started with it I am really wishing I had just ordered some catless ones. It is a pita.

[RAUDI]

What does that flywheel weigh?

I didn't weigh it myself, but, according to Steveken, this batch weighed in around 23 pounds.

[nitrorocket]

That's pretty hefty, that's about double what an aluminum one weighs. Should stand up to plenty of 5000 rpm launches though!