Headlights are a joke...

[Other_Erik]

So I finally took the beast out for a road trip this past weekend, rolled very smooth and did better on gas than I have been around town :incar: Buuuuuuuuut...

I left our campground ~10pm the first night to pick up a power inverter. After a little while of driving, I noticed I'm squinting a LOT, and I'm tetrachromatic, so I'm especially sensitive to light.

What can I do to get decent light more than 50 feet down the road? It may have something to do with the fact that I'm lowered on KWV3's, but it's pretty ridiculous.

I looked (briefly) at aftermarket headlights, but everything I could find was built for A6, and would not bolt to the RS even if it didn't look awful. I went through a lot of trial and tribulation getting good aftermarket headlight capsules for my old car (2002 Grand Prix GTP) - those stock lights were a bit dimmer, but at least shone 150-200 feet down the road, and when I went to aftermarket projectors it was like a literal night & day difference (pardon the pun)

Any ideas, fellow RS6'ers?

[lswing]

It's the fact you're lowered. My headlights were great stock, lowered an inch at most and now poor. They are manually adjusted high as possible. You can go through with vag and raise/level them, use a wall for alignment.

Edit; my high beams still obliterate the road...

[DHall1]

Check your height sensor on the LF lower control arm. It can flip 180

Change adaptations via vag.

Stock RS headlight performance is fantastic when adjusted properly

[ben916]

I remember reading a thread QUITE some time ago about someone that changed out the old headlight guts (IIRC RS6 have HID) and a new ballast and presto! new found brightness. It ain't cheap...

[Other_Erik]

It's the fact you're lowered. My headlights were great stock, lowered an inch at most and now poor. They are manually adjusted high as possible. You can go through with vag and raise/level them, use a wall for alignment.

Edit; my high beams still obliterate the road...

Check your height sensor on the LF lower control arm. It can flip 180

Change adaptations via vag.

Stock RS headlight performance is fantastic when adjusted properly

Thanks, will have to give that a try. I'm also seriously considering raising the ride height a notch on these KWV3's - had a nasty bump when I misjudged the height of a speed bump a couple weeks back. The ride looks and feels great, but I'd rather not repeat that momentary panic...

lswing I totally agree on the high beams, on the way out to pick up the inverter there was an area that had trees overgrowing the road from both sides like a tunnel, got the chance to use them in there and it was brighter than when we drove through during the daytime :)

[Sasha00311]

i feel like mine are also shooting too far down at the ground and i'm completely stock still.

[lswing]

i feel like mine are also shooting too far down at the ground and i'm completely stock still.

Adjustment screws, vag, or sensor as Dave mentioned. I thought there was a sensor in the back also no?

[DHall1]

To be clear. Check the LF lower control arm sensor arm first.

Because, it has happened more than once that after suspension repairs the arm gets installed backward 180 degrees.

If that happens, your headlights will be pointing at the ground.

No amount of adjustment screw and or vag setting can fix it.

Only after you have checked the proper operation of that LF lower sensor do you move on to the vag or adjustment screw.


Adjustment screws, vag, or sensor as Dave mentioned. I thought there was a sensor in the back also no?

[Jimmy]

Are your lens 'cloudy' some? Light output can be dramatically reduced. Kinda typical for a 10 year old + car with plastic lens. I had to do the 3M lens refinishing kit and it made a noticeable difference to me....though it seems I have to re-do it every year now (I have yet to install Lamin-x films that sit in my toolbox after the re-freshening up)

[Other_Erik]

To be clear. Check the LF lower control arm sensor arm first.
Because, it has happened more than once that after suspension repairs the arm gets installed backward 180 degrees.
If that happens, your headlights will be pointing at the ground.
No amount of adjustment screw and or vag setting can fix it.
Only after you have checked the proper operation of that LF lower sensor do you move on to the vag or adjustment screw.

Thanks, I will have the local shop look into that for me when she goes in for service. Hopefully I'll have the other half of my CF interior kit soon, and will have the whole shebang taken care of at once.


Are your lens 'cloudy' some? Light output can be dramatically reduced. Kinda typical for a 10 year old + car with plastic lens. I had to do the 3M lens refinishing kit and it made a noticeable difference to me....though it seems I have to re-do it every year now (I have yet to install Lamin-x films that sit in my toolbox after the re-freshening up)

That was one of the first things I took care of. I don't get why anyone pays for that kit (no offense), as I've always just taken a stiff toothbrush, cheap unflavored toothpaste, and gone to work on mine - I know the kits you can be done in 10-20 minutes per side, but 20-30 minutes per side, I've got crystal-clear lenses... Will consider the lamin-x after the next time I do mine, if they help prevent the UV bake that causes that outer layer of plastic to cloud up.

[DHall1]

Takes about 4 seconds to check it.

Throw something down on the ground to lay on. Start car. Turn steering wheel all the way to the left. Take a look at the sensor thru the opening in the LF wheel arch when you turned the wheel. Sensor arm must point forward at 9oclock not back at 3oclock. Done


Thanks, I will have the local shop look into that for me when she goes in for service. Hopefully I'll have the other half of my CF interior kit soon, and will have the whole shebang taken care of at once.



That was one of the first things I took care of. I don't get why anyone pays for that kit (no offense), as I've always just taken a stiff toothbrush, cheap unflavored toothpaste, and gone to work on mine - I know the kits you can be done in 10-20 minutes per side, but 20-30 minutes per side, I've got crystal-clear lenses... Will consider the lamin-x after the next time I do mine, if they help prevent the UV bake that causes that outer layer of plastic to cloud up.

[mrdave]

I spent some quality time with a flat surface, a garage door, a tape measure, and the adjustment screws after I got my car and I think the headlights are outstanding. I don't even really need to use my high beams anymore, even at night at 80mph on an unlit and unmarked highway in the middle of nowhere.

[Jimmy]

That was one of the first things I took care of. I don't get why anyone pays for that kit (no offense), as I've always just taken a stiff toothbrush, cheap unflavored toothpaste, and gone to work on mine - I know the kits you can be done in 10-20 minutes per side, but 20-30 minutes per side, I've got crystal-clear lenses... Will consider the lamin-x after the next time I do mine, if they help prevent the UV bake that causes that outer layer of plastic to cloud up.No offense at all here, there are plenty of other almost free products (like the baking soda toothpaste (which I use to clean my gray seats actually) or even a plain ole wet sand and buff will remove the oxidize layer. Yes, the Lamin-x does a great job of sealing/preventing the baked cloudy look. My 200K mile allroad's lites look fantastic for the age and mileage with the films on.

[Other_Erik]

Sorry for the big pics, these were taken from the left front wheel arch, anyone else see at least 2 things wrong here? :(
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