Transmission being replaced -- opportunity?

[RS6bear]

So, my transmission needs to be replaced on my 2003 RS6 (80,000 miles). Thankfully, I have warranty insurance that's covering the costs for that, which means my engine is being pulled on someone else's dime. Is there anything I should ask to have done, while the engine is out? I'm mostly looking for prophylactic replacement of parts that might fail and require expensive labor costs to get at.

For example, is it worth replacing the original turbos, even just with newer OEM replacements? I'm not really looking for performance improvements, since drive train seems challenged with the original power on these beasts.

i need to let the mechanic know in the next ay or two if I want anything added to the planned work...

[4everRS]

Was the tbelt done at 75k like its supposed to be?

O2 sensors. EGT sensors. Make sure the steering rack bolts are tight.

Turbos? Not if you don't have a tune. If its been tuned for a while, I'd consider a rebuild.

[Other_Erik]

Wish I could get my front end torn apart on someone else's dime :\ My personal checklist when I have to go out-of-pocket is:

Header wrap
Turbo blankets
Bolt/hose inspection
Leak check
EGT Sensors
O2 sensors
Trans pan/filter/fluids (nipped uptake tube)
Brake ducts
Wagner IC's/hoses/shrouds (and removal of fog lamps)
Thorough degreasing and rust inhibitant
Splash Guard
Heat/noise insulation (boom-mat, possibly some rhinoliner)
Pre-Cat gutting
Alternator Diode preventative replacement
Considering a Meziere electric water pump
Heater core de-gunk and fins straightened
Full coolant flush and radiator pressure treatment


etc...

[RS6bear]

Was the tbelt done at 75k like its supposed to be?

O2 sensors. EGT sensors. Make sure the steering rack bolts are tight.

Turbos? Not if you don't have a tune. If its been tuned for a while, I'd consider a rebuild.

Thank you for answering. :-)

Yes, the timing belt was done, so no problem there.

When you say "a tune", do you mean if the car was chipped? I got it used, so I don't know for sure, but I have no reason to believe that it was ever chipped to provide more boost...

[RS6bear]

Wish I could get my front end torn apart on someone else's dime :\

[/QUOTE]

Yes, I see it as an excellent opportunity! :-)




Header wrap
Turbo blankets
Bolt/hose inspection
Leak check
EGT Sensors
O2 sensors
Trans pan/filter/fluids (nipped uptake tube)
Brake ducts
Wagner IC's/hoses/shrouds (and removal of fog lamps)
Thorough degreasing and rust inhibitant
Splash Guard
Heat/noise insulation (boom-mat, possibly some rhinoliner)
Pre-Cat gutting
Alternator Diode preventative replacement
Considering a Meziere electric water pump
Heater core de-gunk and fins straightened
Full coolant flush and radiator pressure treatment

etc...

Thank you for this list! I'll definitely scope out most of it. I'm not sure my Audi dealer will be up for gutting the cat. ;-)

[DHall1]

Well it depends on how much longer you have service contract coverage. Lets say you have 30k more miles then I would not do anything and let her ride. The cost to change primary O2s and EGT sensors are a small fortune just for the parts alone. And these are covered components anyways.

What failed in the transmission?

Ditto for the turbos. If the car has not been tuned or flashed and oil was changed on schedule then the turbos are fine.

Just have the tech look for oil leaks that would be covered while its out. Most likely valve cover gaskets at your mileage.

Leave everything else alone. No way is it a good idea to gut cats unless you have big tuning plans later on. And the dealer will laugh at you.

Which service contract do you have? And the last 4 of your vin?


So, my transmission needs to be replaced on my 2003 RS6 (80,000 miles). Thankfully, I have warranty insurance that's covering the costs for that, which means my engine is being pulled on someone else's dime. Is there anything I should ask to have done, while the engine is out? I'm mostly looking for prophylactic replacement of parts that might fail and require expensive labor costs to get at.

For example, is it worth replacing the original turbos, even just with newer OEM replacements? I'm not really looking for performance improvements, since drive train seems challenged with the original power on these beasts.

i need to let the mechanic know in the next ay or two if I want anything added to the planned work...

[kevin]

oil cooler nipple!!!

[DHall1]

Yes that is a must. Completely forgot about that one. Its the small cooler tube that cracks.


oil cooler nipple!!!

[alrightroad]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Audi-oil-cooler-pipe-for-4-2L-V8-Engine-A8-A6-RS6-Phaeton-/261199474198?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd0b3ae16

[RS6bear]

Well it depends on how much longer you have service contract coverage. Lets say you have 30k more miles then I would not do anything and let her ride. The cost to change primary O2s and EGT sensors are a small fortune just for the parts alone. And these are covered components anyways.

What failed in the transmission?

Ditto for the turbos. If the car has not been tuned or flashed and oil was changed on schedule then the turbos are fine.

Just have the tech look for oil leaks that would be covered while its out. Most likely valve cover gaskets at your mileage.

Leave everything else alone. No way is it a good idea to gut cats unless you have big tuning plans later on. And the dealer will laugh at you.

Which service contract do you have? And the last 4 of your vin?

I have coverage from Zurich Insurance for 2 years; I will only be driving the car ~5,000 miles/year, so I don't know as anything else (O2 sensors and EGT sensors) are really likely to fail during the remainder of my coverage.

The transmission is rough in upper 2nd gear, and there's something funky with 3rd -- when I floor it and it drops into 3rd, it can be very jerky. Also, twice when stopping at a stop light, when I went to start up again, the transmission locked itself into 4th gear (a protection mechanism).

The last 4 digits of my VIN are: 5115

Thank you for all the advice (everyone), including the notes about the oil cooler nipple. :-)

[DHall1]

Well then...

Most Audi dealers take list price on parts and then mark it up another 25%.

If you price out EGTs or O2s you will spend in the 1000s for them.

The car will function with a failed EGT but not a O2. So if I were to go with one or the other I would do the O2s. Primary only

Price out the dealer for the parts then go to Genuineaudiparts.com for a quote.


I have coverage from Zurich Insurance for 2 years; I will only be driving the car ~5,000 miles/year, so I don't know as anything else (O2 sensors and EGT sensors) are really likely to fail during the remainder of my coverage.

The transmission is rough in upper 2nd gear, and there's something funky with 3rd -- when I floor it and it drops into 3rd, it can be very jerky. Also, twice when stopping at a stop light, when I went to start up again, the transmission locked itself into 4th gear (a protection mechanism).

The last 4 digits of my VIN are: 5115

Thank you for all the advice (everyone), including the notes about the oil cooler nipple. :-)

[4everRS]

Yes that is a must. Completely forgot about that one. Its the small cooler tube that cracks.
Just the nipple. Not the whole aluminum block.

[DHall1]

I got the receipt for that sucker somewhere.......hold on.


Just the nipple. Not the whole aluminum block.

[RS6bear]

Well then...

Most Audi dealers take list price on parts and then mark it up another 25%.

If you price out EGTs or O2s you will spend in the 1000s for them.

The car will function with a failed EGT but not a O2. So if I were to go with one or the other I would do the O2s. Primary only

Price out the dealer for the parts then go to Genuineaudiparts.com for a quote.

Actually, I have a failed EGT and I'll be replacing it -- at my own expense (but cheaper because the engine is pulled for the covered work). Apparently, EGT's are not covered by the warranty, so I think that I will prophylactically replace the O2 sensor.

I've communicated everything else to the mechanic, so I think I'm covered. It was fun telling them to replace "the nipple" -- something I'm much happier to tell a mechanic than a doctor.

[G2]

For me (in addition to some of those listed above):
Torque converter should be replaced. Maybe pay any extra for an upgraded unit?
Rear main seal, close inspection of flex plate for cracks-- maybe send it out for mag testing to prove failure is eminent or in progress.
F.diff carrier bearings (but can supposedly be repaired w/o trans R&R) if output drive flange is exceedingly loose.
Turbos: ensure radial and end play are within specs, or replace as needed.

From personal experience with extended warranties doing anything preventative is a tall order. Went thru a transmission issue with Nat'l Warranty Co couple years ago for a noisy carrier bearing. They heard it-- well the second "rep" did-- but it was still denied. On a vehicle with known weak transmissions. Tried to blame it on in adequate service. Total BS.

[lswing]

I think that I will prophylactically replace the O2 sensor.

Proactively? But yes, we do end up taking it in the year from this car sometimes. Your wording makes more sense, and if you did it on purpose, well done, well done...

[RS6bear]

Proactively? But yes, we do end up taking it in the year from this car sometimes. Your wording makes more sense, and if you did it on purpose, well done, well done...

I actually did mean prophylaxis (not a typo), but proactive is just as good. ...and as you say, when dealing with The Beast, I am on the receiving end of some rough stuff, and any kind of protection and prevention is good. :-)