WTB: C5 Valve body and Torque converter

[kienchil]

Hi Guys, hello from Down-under

Just wondering with the number of manual conversions been done here does anyone have a torque converter and valve body for their old ZF transmission they want to sell?

My transmission is on the downward slide. Big rev jumps then slamming into gear, hoping a TC and Valve body rebuild will fix it.

PM me or reply in this thread.

Regards

[lswing]

Just use the TC that's in your car, rebuild is around $500 here. Might as well rebuild the trans while you're at it, get it all fixed up and new since the labor is %50 of the cost. You got some re-builders down there?

It's more than likely your clutch packs are shot, not holding and slipping causing the rough shift. Taking a look at the fluid might tell you, probably full of debris, and that in turn clogging up the valve body if it gets past the filter...

[kienchil]

Just use the TC that's in your car, rebuild is around $500 here. Might as well rebuild the trans while you're at it, get it all fixed up and new since the labor is %50 of the cost. You got some re-builders down there?

It's more than likely your clutch packs are shot, not holding and slipping causing the rough shift. Taking a look at the fluid might tell you, probably full of debris, and that in turn clogging up the valve body if it gets past the filter...

Thanks for the advice, only problem is I need my car for work every day as i'm on the road, thats why hoping to get these parts and get them upgraded/rebuilt in the US via Level 10 (or someone like that), as nobody has the expertise here. Running Eurocharged stage 2 with straight pipes and an MTM shift chip so a normal rebuild will probably just fail again in time given the increased torque load.

Really trying to minimise the time the car spends on a lift :/. Shipping time is the real killer here. I can dismantle my car and send the parts to get rebuilt etc but it will mean I have to rent a car for the whole turnaround time which could be up to a month.

Just had the transmission serviced and the fluid looks fine, will definitely do a transmission rebuild while it's out though.

[905084]

I'll help you out....T/C and valve body won't fix your problem.....clutch packs are probably ok. Your A clutch o-ring is shot. Let me guess, does it worse when hot right? Never does it in 5th (because your A-clutch is only used in gear 1-4. You can try the patch I did (worked for 3000 miles on Thing 1 but didn't work at all for Thing 2). That would buy you time.

Doing the T/C without doing the trans is a waste of time IMHO. I've got 2 shot 5HP24A's and a T/C but the shipping costs can be prohibitive.

And where is "here"? Love to help if I can.

[kienchil]

Sorry should have stipulated that "here" is Australia so a bit far away. How hard is it to replace this o-ring? Is it basically a full transmission rebuild? Is there any way to help prevent it happening again? What is the "patch"?.

Thanks for you help! I find I always fix one thing and another breaks!


I'll help you out....T/C and valve body won't fix your problem.....clutch packs are probably ok. Your A clutch o-ring is shot. Let me guess, does it worse when hot right? Never does it in 5th (because your A-clutch is only used in gear 1-4. You can try the patch I did (worked for 3000 miles on Thing 1 but didn't work at all for Thing 2). That would buy you time.

Doing the T/C without doing the trans is a waste of time IMHO. I've got 2 shot 5HP24A's and a T/C but the shipping costs can be prohibitive.

And where is "here"? Love to help if I can.

[905084]

O ring is pretty much a whole trans rebuild. Does it slip then slam into gear (or go to limp mode) only when hot? Also, are there any trans codes or CEL lights? Should have an "incorrect gear ratio" code.

Patch just raises the line pressure in the trans to high so the clutch packs can stay engaged. You bypass the EDS-1 solenoid in the valve body. Eventually the trans will fail and it doesn't always work.

[kienchil]

Tends to happen more when its warmed up and yes, it slips and then slams into gear. Only trans code is the Torque Converter clutch stuck open one, no CEL lights.

I find that I can reduce the incidence by running it in manual mode. I believe this increases the line pressure as well.

Also when changing from reverse to forward gears I have to wait about 2-3 seconds or it will do it immediately regardless of the temperature.

[905084]

Patch may or may not help then. It's just a 5 ohm resistor in place of the EDS-1 solenoid. Even if it works, it's eventually a trans rebuild but it might buy you time to source a trans and a T/C and then swap them out.

One more test if you want to try it. Car in drive, emergency brake on and brake on, run the RPM up and see if it slips.

[kienchil]

Just a question are ACE converters out of business because their page comes up as blank when I try to access it, it used to work about 6 months ago!

[lswing]

Basically you need a rebuild of both, and I would still say your clutches are shot too...

Buy the old trans and tc from someone here for ~$1,000, have it rebuilt by Tozo for $3,500, shipped to you.

You're looking at a week minimum for the swap from old to new. Has your mechanic done this before? I'd do it soon as it sounds like your trans will fail completely fairly soon.

The good part is you'll have a major weak link fixed up for many years!

[lswing]

Just a question are ACE converters out of business because their page comes up as blank when I try to access it, it used to work about 6 months ago!

Site could be down, I'll give them a call. Tozo will do the rebuild also. Maybe he'll chime in here...

[lswing]

My receipt from ace actually has this name on it, http://www.edgeracingconverters.com/.

[905084]

The "A" clutch which I had my guy replace because these tend to grenade in the 5HP24A
14088

My "A" clutch o-ring

14089

Nothing like a 50 cent part costing all of us 5 grand a piece. This o-ring is what is causing your big rev jumps then slamming into gear.

[lswing]

This o-ring is what is causing your big rev jumps then slamming into gear.

Seems it could also be clutch packs too worn to hold? Believe that was the case in mine, within six months went from good fluid to massive particle build up, slip then slam into gear. I should have asked Tozo what it looked like upon rebuild...

[Bigglezworth]

The "A" clutch which I had my guy replace because these tend to grenade in the 5HP24A
14088

My "A" clutch o-ring

14089

Nothing like a 50 cent part costing all of us 5 grand a piece. This o-ring is what is causing your big rev jumps then slamming into gear.Suggests that anyone with detailed knowledge of building an engine or doing the more elaborate repairs on a vehicle could perform this repair themselves doesn't it....

[kienchil]

What a load of bollocks, surely that's enough evidence for a class action? In any case what's to stop it from happening again after the rebuild if its just clearly a crappy design or should we just expect a transmission rebuild every 100,000 kilometers (50k miles).

[lswing]

Sometimes they last 100k miles or more, many things can go wrong, mix of design and power I suppose...there might be a decent list of stuff like this...

[kienchil]

Did a quick search for rebuild kits on ebay and noticed this one AUDI ZF5HP24FLA TRANSMISSION MASTER KIT W/STEELS AND UPD... (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110961038342?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649) has an "updated" A drum, would this help reduce the chance of this happening again?

Also which TC do you guys recommend if I can't get one through ACE?

Cheers

[905084]

Did a quick search for rebuild kits on ebay and noticed this one AUDI ZF5HP24FLA TRANSMISSION MASTER KIT W/STEELS AND UPD... (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110961038342?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649) has an "updated" A drum, would this help reduce the chance of this happening again?

Also which TC do you guys recommend if I can't get one through ACE?


Cheers

Any one you can get down under......I called 3 places before I could find a place that even knew what these were. Different than any as far as I can tell with no cross reference.

[kienchil]

Any one you can get down under......I called 3 places before I could find a place that even knew what these were. Different than any as far as I can tell with no cross reference.

I don't mind ordering it from the states as currently the car is still drivable in manual mode, apparently the 517 TC is pretty good?

[lswing]

Tozo is excellent also...I can PM the contact info, he's done many rebuilds on here, and uses upgraded parts where they are needed. Does the TC and Trans, easy as that...

[TozoM8]

The "A" clutch which I had my guy replace because these tend to grenade in the 5HP24A
14088

My "A" clutch o-ring

14089

Nothing like a 50 cent part costing all of us 5 grand a piece. This o-ring is what is causing your big rev jumps then slamming into gear.

The broken O-ring was a result of another problem. If you just replace the O-ring it will fail again way sooner than the original.

[TozoM8]

Did a quick search for rebuild kits on ebay and noticed this one AUDI ZF5HP24FLA TRANSMISSION MASTER KIT W/STEELS AND UPD... (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/110961038342?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649) has an "updated" A drum, would this help reduce the chance of this happening again?

Also which TC do you guys recommend if I can't get one through ACE?

Cheers

Precision is an aftermarket kit. You can get an OEM ZF kit for much less. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF5HP24A-OEM-ZF-REBUILD-KIT-AUDI-VW-1997-ON-5HP24A-01L-/260160072905?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3c92bfacc9&vxp=mtr#ht_2091wt_1089

[kienchil]

Precision is an aftermarket kit. You can get an OEM ZF kit for much less. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF5HP24A-OEM-ZF-REBUILD-KIT-AUDI-VW-1997-ON-5HP24A-01L-/260160072905?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3c92bfacc9&vxp=mtr#ht_2091wt_1089

Thanks for your input Tozo, the reason I highlighted that kit because of this apparently "upgraded A Drum", do you think it's worth it or a load of bollocks?

Also whats the cause of this problem really, is there a way to stop it from re-occurring, it or will it just fail again eventually after a rebuild?

I would send the trans to you but obviously the cost of shipping etc would be prohibitive.

[TozoM8]

Thanks for your input Tozo, the reason I highlighted that kit because of this apparently "upgraded A Drum", do you think it's worth it or a load of bollocks?

Also whats the cause of this problem really, is there a way to stop it from re-occurring, it or will it just fail again eventually after a rebuild?

I would send the trans to you but obviously the cost of shipping etc would be prohibitive.

Here is the upgraded drum. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF-5HP24-A5S440Z-A-CLUTCH-DRUM-INPUT-Forw-Bmw-Jag-Rover-UPGRADE-FREE-SHIPPING-/130581542648?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e674436f8&vxp=mtr#ht_1294wt_1089

There is a lot of wear parts in the trans that needs to be addressed in order to build it long lasting one.

[lswing]

^^^Oh, look who showed up, you've got a knack for this...and even better, one for building a strong trans!

Do it right the first time, as we know half the cost is labor...sure it's a chunk of change, but an investment in the future of your car.

[kienchil]

Here is the upgraded drum. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZF-5HP24-A5S440Z-A-CLUTCH-DRUM-INPUT-Forw-Bmw-Jag-Rover-UPGRADE-FREE-SHIPPING-/130581542648?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e674436f8&vxp=mtr#ht_1294wt_1089

There is a lot of wear parts in the trans that needs to be addressed in order to build it long lasting one.

Tozo do you have any Torque Converters available at the moment? Happy to pay a core refund fee if you can send it to me ASAP.

Thanks

[lswing]

Do you know how much labor is involved to swap in a TC? I assume you'll be rebuilding trans at the same time...?

[kienchil]

yeah full rebuild too