New-to-me RS6, V#905530 , parts needed list

[Other_Erik]

So I bought TechGurru's beast, after much calling back and forth, hassling TG and his local dealership, and finally getting the PPI done. Black on black, wood trims (already have my order in at OCarbon to swap up to 11oz CF)
The car came off the transport truck with about a half-gallon of fuel in the tank, which the driver burned getting to the drop location. I'm freakin' thrilled, and ready to get it road-ready.

What that entails for me:
1) CV Boot replacement - RF Inner, $210 at a local indy shop
2) Motor Mount - Left, $785 at said indy shop (Audi stealership quoted $4600 in labor + $385 for the part :lovl: )
3) Splash Guard - ~$430 for the part, plus mounting hardware (see also, next line!)
4) And this is the part that gets me - miscellaneous small parts - I don't have access to ETKA, and there are no part numbers on what I need! Anyone who does have ETKA who could help with this, I'd very much appreciate.
4a) Locking capture nuts - the front snaps for the front airbox cover - one is missing completely, the other has the spring-loaded clip and the threaded bolt that it locks into, but seems to be missing a nut on the underside to hold it in place
4b) Plastic/rubber grommet - again for the front airbox cover - the part in question is actually slid over the post on the front end of the Drivers' side airbox cover, and the front airbox cover snaps into place on top of it
4c) Window wiper post cap - the little plastic nut that covers the wiper arm to wiper transmission linkage
4d) Mounting hardware for the splash guard - I'd like something a little more permanent than whatever came from the factory since I've seen quite a number of folks saying "it was there one day and gone the next"
Sorry if I'm not using the proper names for the parts, but again, no access to ETKA
5) Tail lights - I'm super-picky, and the little crack in the left tail light inspired me to upgrade to some LED tails, hoping they don't look hideous when they get here...
6) Full detail - The long, slow, love session that'll get minor swirling and pitting out of the paint and get the beast looking shiny and new again. I'm not posting pics 'til this is done, since the hauling from the Pacific Northwest to the DC area has left its dusty mark all over...

Can't wait to get it on the road and actually start enjoying the car I've been drooling over since it was announced!
Other_Erik :addict:

[ttboost]

Congrats on your new affair. Hopefully it is a long and meaningful one...

[Other_Erik]

Congrats on your new affair. Hopefully it is a long and meaningful one...

Thanks, I remember contacting you about your Mugello beast that you might have been interested in selling - if it weren't for the manual conversion, I'd have been all over it, but stick-shift + DC area traffic is a no-go for me :(

Other_Erik

[1uglymug]

Most of these parts in #4 can be picked up at your local dealership in their parts department. Many of these little pieces are not too expensive there. And you can look at their books to see what parts you need. For example, the locking capture nuts… I picked those up at a local Audi dealership… cheap.

[Dmb408]

Are the locking capture nuts available at the dealer or anywhere online, I have one missing.

[Other_Erik]

Most of these parts in #4 can be picked up at your local dealership in their parts department. Many of these little pieces are not too expensive there. And you can look at their books to see what parts you need. For example, the locking capture nuts… I picked those up at a local Audi dealership… cheap.

Not necessarily trying to cheap out, just trying to plan the full services at the Indy shop, so they can have parts on hand before I bring the car in. I usually plan things like this out pretty meticulously... Not to mention I can't drive the car anywhere until I get it titled and get some paper license plates on it.

The local stealership is notoriously bad in their customer service, I'm convinced the only reason they remain is because they move cars like mad, being the only outlet for new Audi's in the metro DC area. I know I'm going to have to go there to get new keys cut, to the tune of $589/ea., would rather not give them any more money than is absolutely necessary.

I'm also welcoming suggestions for better-quality parts for mounting the shroud as well, like I said above - I don't want to drop a couple hundred bucks on a piece of plastic and come out one morning to it having fallen off on the previous nights' drive.

[1uglymug]

Are the locking capture nuts available at the dealer or anywhere online, I have one missing.

I want to say that they were 20 cents a piece at the dealer.

[kmartens]

Thanks, I remember contacting you about your Mugello beast that you might have been interested in selling - if it weren't for the manual conversion, I'd have been all over it, but stick-shift + DC area traffic is a no-go for me :(

Other_Erik

Congrats on getting the car to NOVA! I am still waiting for title for my car as well so I can register it, (already got passed emissions and inspection). Just heard that previous lien holder just released the title (took 3 weeks!)

Regarding the manual trans.. that's what DD cars are for :). Can't wait to swap a 6speed in my RS6 (once the warranty is done next june). So actually, will probably happen Winter 2014, don't want to have the car down during the summer.

Also, what indy shop are you taking your car to?

[Other_Erik]

Congrats on getting the car to NOVA! I am still waiting for title for my car as well so I can register it, (already got passed emissions and inspection). Just heard that previous lien holder just released the title (took 3 weeks!)

Regarding the manual trans.. that's what DD cars are for :). Can't wait to swap a 6speed in my RS6 (once the warranty is done next june). So actually, will probably happen Winter 2014, don't want to have the car down during the summer.

Also, what indy shop are you taking your car to?

Thanks, going with AutoScandia in Herndon, they've got a tech with 20 years Audi master mechanic experience, so I'm good with that. Definitely not looking forward to the drive(s) out to Audi Chantilly so they can bend me over the desk and give me "SERVICE with a smile (and no lube)" when I need 2 keys cut and the small bits listed above... I'm looking into the crystal ball and seeing that 20 cent list part being 3 weeks of backorder waiting followed by a bill for $60 or more.

We're definitely going to have to have a meetup/mod day soon, I'm moving into Herndon (and all its associated BS) at the end of the month, so things are really fluid for me at the moment... but at least I'll be somewhere with a garage!

[kmartens]

Thanks, going with AutoScandia in Herndon, they've got a tech with 20 years Audi master mechanic experience, so I'm good with that. Definitely not looking forward to the drive(s) out to Audi Chantilly so they can bend me over the desk and give me "SERVICE with a smile (and no lube)" when I need 2 keys cut and the small bits listed above... I'm looking into the crystal ball and seeing that 20 cent list part being 3 weeks of backorder waiting followed by a bill for $60 or more.

We're definitely going to have to have a meetup/mod day soon, I'm moving into Herndon (and all its associated BS) at the end of the month, so things are really fluid for me at the moment... but at least I'll be somewhere with a garage!

Haha, I live in Woodbridge but really close to Manassas border. I am near Herndon area frequently though as few of my friends live in Reston by Reston Town Center. Agree, we will definitely need to do a mod/meetup day (should have car registered by the 24th), I am looking to get the same Carbon Fiber trim set you ordered from OCarbon, perhaps we could do a trim install day. I still need to order mine though!

About Audi of Chantilly I didn't get a good vibe from time I went there looking for a used Q5 for my DD, very unfriendly sales service. Parts department i dont have experience with. Always used Audi of Tysons Corner when i had my B5 S4 for parts.

[Other_Erik]

Haha, I live in Woodbridge but really close to Manassas border. I am near Herndon area frequently though as few of my friends live in Reston by Reston Town Center. Agree, we will definitely need to do a mod/meetup day (should have car registered by the 24th), I am looking to get the same Carbon Fiber trim set you ordered from OCarbon, perhaps we could do a trim install day. I still need to order mine though!

About Audi of Chantilly I didn't get a good vibe from time I went there looking for a used Q5 for my DD, very unfriendly sales service. Parts department i dont have experience with. Always used Audi of Tysons Corner when i had my B5 S4 for parts.

Already put in my order with OCarbon, it's a good 2-3 week lead time from order date to get trims, and that's if they have stock sets ready for dressing. I was looking real hard at the Carbon/Red Kevlar, but it was just tooooo much red. Would've been perfect if it was like the RS6+ Blue weaves from the Euro market - a 4x4 twill pattern with 1 thread out of the 16 being blue (or in the case of what I'd want, red) - it's hot, but not hot enough to drop 3500 euros plus international shipping. I've done a bit of trimwork before, and don't trust my own clumsiness enough to risk a $300 security deposit for my old trim removal, much less installation of nice CF pieces... I'll have to check on the Audi of Tysons - it's actually a bit closer for me now... Gonna keep this post updated with progress, since my replacement tail lights come in Tuesday, and that at least is something I've done with other cars before, shouldn't be too much hassle to drop in. I think I may have ended up getting the same ones you have on your car - it was MontyRS's right?

For the mod day, I'm thinking Hotchkis sways if/when I decide to pull the trigger on them, and maybe if I can find some brake ducts those can be on the list too :)

Other_Erik

//Edit- Just checked out Audi of Tyson's, they list the same inbound phone number for parts and service as Audi Chantilly. Called 4 times yesterday to get the list price for new keys, finally had to call sales and bitch someone out to get the parts department. I'm just sayin', is all... -tidE\\

[DHall1]

Does the replacement of the LS motor mount mean the engine has to come out?

I would not just replace the boot. Replace the entire axle with a Raxle complete OEM quality unit. 199 per side.


So I bought TechGurru's beast, after much calling back and forth, hassling TG and his local dealership, and finally getting the PPI done. Black on black, wood trims (already have my order in at OCarbon to swap up to 11oz CF)
The car came off the transport truck with about a half-gallon of fuel in the tank, which the driver burned getting to the drop location. I'm freakin' thrilled, and ready to get it road-ready.

What that entails for me:
1) CV Boot replacement - RF Inner, $210 at a local indy shop
2) Motor Mount - Left, $785 at said indy shop (Audi stealership quoted $4600 in labor + $385 for the part :lovl: )
3) Splash Guard - ~$430 for the part, plus mounting hardware (see also, next line!)
4) And this is the part that gets me - miscellaneous small parts - I don't have access to ETKA, and there are no part numbers on what I need! Anyone who does have ETKA who could help with this, I'd very much appreciate.
4a) Locking capture nuts - the front snaps for the front airbox cover - one is missing completely, the other has the spring-loaded clip and the threaded bolt that it locks into, but seems to be missing a nut on the underside to hold it in place
4b) Plastic/rubber grommet - again for the front airbox cover - the part in question is actually slid over the post on the front end of the Drivers' side airbox cover, and the front airbox cover snaps into place on top of it
4c) Window wiper post cap - the little plastic nut that covers the wiper arm to wiper transmission linkage
4d) Mounting hardware for the splash guard - I'd like something a little more permanent than whatever came from the factory since I've seen quite a number of folks saying "it was there one day and gone the next"
Sorry if I'm not using the proper names for the parts, but again, no access to ETKA
5) Tail lights - I'm super-picky, and the little crack in the left tail light inspired me to upgrade to some LED tails, hoping they don't look hideous when they get here...
6) Full detail - The long, slow, love session that'll get minor swirling and pitting out of the paint and get the beast looking shiny and new again. I'm not posting pics 'til this is done, since the hauling from the Pacific Northwest to the DC area has left its dusty mark all over...

Can't wait to get it on the road and actually start enjoying the car I've been drooling over since it was announced!
Other_Erik :addict:

[SteveKen]

2) Motor Mount - Left, $785 at said indy shop (Audi stealership quoted $4600 in labor + $385 for the part :lovl: )


You have some options here if you're on the floor with this price.

You can go aftermarket, using non active ones and use defeater plugs so that they do not throw faults (these will not cause a CEL, but only fault codes, I think). I think that the reason for the active mounts is to dampen vibration at idle.



4a) Locking capture nuts - the front snaps for the front airbox cover - one is missing completely, the other has the spring-loaded clip and the threaded bolt that it locks into, but seems to be missing a nut on the underside to hold it in place


See here.

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/23462-Part-Numer-Request



4b) Plastic/rubber grommet - again for the front airbox cover - the part in question is actually slid over the post on the front end of the Drivers' side airbox cover, and the front airbox cover snaps into place on top of it


I've just used an appropriate diameter of rubber tubing to slide over the post and provide enough friction to hold the cover in place.



4c) Window wiper post cap - the little plastic nut that covers the wiper arm to wiper transmission linkage


I might have some of these laying around if you need them. I'm guessing that they're not that expensive though. I couldn't find a P/N for them in ETKA.

[SteveKen]

Does the replacement of the LS motor mount mean the engine has to come out?


I think you can wrangle it out without removing the engine, but you might need to raise it a bit or lower the subframe.

[Other_Erik]

You have some options here if you're on the floor with this price.

You can go aftermarket, using non active ones and use defeater plugs so that they do not throw faults (these will not cause a CEL, but only fault codes, I think). I think that the reason for the active mounts is to dampen vibration at idle.

See here.
http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/23462-Part-Numer-Request

I've just used an appropriate diameter of rubber tubing to slide over the post and provide enough friction to hold the cover in place.

I might have some of these laying around if you need them. I'm guessing that they're not that expensive though. I couldn't find a P/N for them in ETKA.

SteveKen, you're a life-saver :) I'm good on the price for the indy shop ($785) to replace the mount - that included parts and labor.
The attachment part I'm looking for is 077 103 733 according to that diagram, will be ordering up a pair of those just in case. I'll see if I can find appropriate rubber tubing (not like I don't have enough of that laying around!) for the rear end of the front cover.

If you have a spare cap for the wiper post, I'll paypal you a dollar or two to drop it in an envelope for me - shoot me a PM if you'd like...

As to DHall1 - the lower motor mounts absolutely _can_ be replaced without removing the engine. You have to have an engine hoist to get the job done, but basically attach hoist, undo mounts, lower subframe until you can clear the bad mount, and reverse for installation. At least, that's how it was explained to me by the indy shop.

Thanks!
Other_Erik

[lswing]

As to DHall1 - the lower motor mounts absolutely _can_ be replaced without removing the engine. You have to have an engine hoist to get the job done, but basically attach hoist, undo mounts, lower subframe until you can clear the bad mount, and reverse for installation. At least, that's how it was explained to me by the indy shop.

Thanks!
Other_Erik

Congrats on getting the car!

I've replaced two bad motor mounts, or my shop has. Really didn't notice much change in performance, or anything...maybe a bit less shake.

[Other_Erik]

Update:
Done:
Motor mount and CV boot replaced, ordered the splash guard and locking capture nuts (they've arrived!)
Getting 2 keys and a valet key cut and programmed for ~$800

To-Do
Very heavily considering picking up the Wagner IC's being offered here, full kit will run me ~$1500 and hopefully help charge temp when I'm sitting in DC area traffic in the summertime. Pretty certain install requires removing front bumper, and I haven't had enough hands-on time with the RS6 to be comfortable doing something like that in a day / over a weekend yet.
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU flash will have to wait until I can let the car sit for a week - have to get my current daily in better shape first, needs the EBTCM rebuilt due to ABS faults.
Need to find the proper fitment and order the hubcentric mounting rings so I can run the S5 wheels that I bought from my brother. I know the size difference (57.1-66.6mm hub), but the depth of the spacer is giving me fits - some have recommended as high as 18mm, largest I can find in proper fitment is 10mm.
Still need to find good mounting hardware for the splash guard - no mounting hardware was included with the order (not that I was expecting it, but it would've been nice)
The battery (OE original) has bad cells, replacement will run me ~$180 - no biggie
Still haven't found the little plastic cap for the wiper post - talked to the folks at AutoScandia, the part itself is discontinued, if you want one you have to order the _ENTIRE WIPER ARM_ to the tune of ~$400 - ridiculous, I'll just have to find something else to cover.

I'm not complaining about the amount of time/effort/money I'm putting into the RS6, I know it's my dream machine and I'm going to need to wear a bib the first couple times I drive it to keep the drool off my shirt :)

Other_Erik

[LIRS6]

To-Do
Very heavily considering picking up the Wagner IC's being offered here, full kit will run me ~$1500 and hopefully help charge temp when I'm sitting in DC area traffic in the summertime. Pretty certain install requires removing front bumper, and I haven't had enough hands-on time with the RS6 to be comfortable doing something like that in a day / over a weekend yet.


Front bumper removal is pretty straightforward - if I could do it, you can. I replaced pass side IC (with stock) - but from what I recall reading in posts, that's the easy one (vs. driver's side).

[Other_Erik]

Update: (ed. for brevity) Other_Erik

Another Update!

Done:
Battery replaced, hope it's good for another 10 years :)
Got the mounting hardware for the splash guard, criminy ~$110 later
Cargo net ordered (should receive today)
Replaced high-mount brake lights with cheapie Sylvania bulbs, gotta research some LED replacements
DETAILED! Paint looks MUCH better condition
Windshield sorted (3 big chippies, lifetime warranty from Safelite)
CF Interior ordered June 11, now 31 days later and still no status from OCarbon, getting a little impatient
K40 ordered and paid for, installation scheduled

To-Do:
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU flash will have to wait until I can let the car sit for a week - have to get my Grand Prix in better shape first, needs the EBTCM rebuilt due to ABS faults.
Need to find the proper fitment and order the hubcentric mounting rings so I can run the S5 wheels that I bought from my brother. I know the size difference (57.1-66.6mm hub), but the depth of the spacer is giving me fits - some have recommended as high as 18mm, largest I can find in proper fitment is 10mm.
Install parts (cargo net, tail lights, splash guard, airbox locking spring nuts, rubber tubing for rear mount of front airbox cover, and in-channel rainguards - that's this weekend, if I can get time to do it Sunday)
Getting an oil change on Tuesday, breaking 125k today and ready to start my ritual yearly/5k miles oil change schedule.
Need to mount front license plate - mounting holes look like they're for a motorcycle plate or equivalent smaller size. Got a mount from europeanplates, had to trim my new plate with tin snips to fit snug.

Parts still needed:
Windshield Wiper arm post cap nut - still need this silly little plastic cap, haven't been able to find anything the right size/fitment/color
I think I'm missing a lens or something - on the interior trim of the driver's door, there's a squared hole with a red light behind it (lit when door open), and I see a bracket of some sort in the hole but nothing covering it.

tl;dr: Getting things done, still finding small things missing...

[Other_Erik]

Quick update:

Things are slowing down for me... Installed the Cargo net and rain guards, got a K40, oil changed, license plate mounted. Still seeking misc small parts.

Biggest question of the day - trying to track down Adam Zawa - everywhere I look, he says "email me", but there's no option to do so here on rs6.com or any other forum I find him on, and (understandably), no email address posted. If anyone could PM me his email, just wanna see how much he'd want for an RNS-E with all the Bluetooth trimmings, adapters, nav keys, etc... to pop into #905530 (with Bose, Symphony II, Onstar, no factory nav)

Navigation from cell phone is a non-starter for me, T-Mobile has great signal at my house, but once I get more than ~2 miles away, Edge network no signal no updates...

Thanks
Other_Erik

[SteveKen]

. . .

Biggest question of the day - trying to track down Adam Zawa - everywhere I look, he says "email me", but there's no option to do so here on rs6.com or any other forum I find him on, and (understandably), no email address posted. If anyone could PM me his email. . .

PM sent w/ email addy

[Other_Erik]

Quick update:
Things are slowing down for me...


Another update:

Got the brake capsules installed, looks pretty tits from behind, ordered up LED replacements for the high-mount brake lights (incandescent bulbs keep burning out)
Also got a replacement cap for the wiper arm, big thanks to SteveKen!
Managed to finagle the locking spring nuts into place, can't get one of them to stay snapped down, but that may be because I haven't put the rubber tubing on the mount for the back end of the front cover...
Oh, finally pulled the trigger on a VAG-COM! Anyone have a tips&tricks type document for little tweaks I can put in? A coworker asked me to turn on the rain sensor in his new VW so he can leave his windows open and the car will automatically close them if it sees enough drips on the windshield... neat stuff like that :)
Got in touch with Zawa, ordering up an RNS-E kit from him with Bluetooth. Good guy to deal with!

To-Do:
Viper Tuning ECU/TCU flash will have to wait until I can let the car sit for a week - Grand Prix should hopefully be back running again this weekend.
Need to find the proper fitment and order the hubcentric mounting rings so I can run the S5 wheels that I bought from my brother. I know the size difference (57.1-66.6mm hub), but the depth of the spacer is giving me fits - some have recommended as high as 18mm, largest I can find in proper fitment is 10mm.
Install parts (splash guard, rubber tubing for rear mount of front airbox cover)
STILL waiting for oCarbon to get back to me on when I should expect my carbon trims - put the order in June 11th, now 8 weeks later...

[kmartens]

Moving along very nice! Sad to hear about the hold up with OCarbon. I plan to do the trim this winter. Maybe I should order now!

[Other_Erik]

Latest update, build progress, etc... this is fun :)

Recently done:
Installed the RNS-E, having issues that Zawa and I are working out, hopefully this will be sorted very soon
Installed the 8 pieces of CF Interior that OCarbon finally got around to sending. Expect a whole 'nother thread on this here very soon.

To-Do:
ECU/TCU Flash: going back and forth on whether to go with Viper and have to wait a week and pay more, or going with 10SecS4's Tune, which can be out and back in 3 days...
Selling the wheels that I got from my brother (S5 Prestige wheels)
Install parts (splash guard, rubber tubing for rear mount of front airbox cover)
Gotta pick up winter tires (see below)
EGT Sensor refresh/possible replacement (see below)
Have to raise the suspension one notch. Anyone have experience with the KW V3's, any way to do this without a remove/reinstall? I'm not at all experienced with fiddling with suspensions, so I'd rather not screw it up myself if it can be helped...
Cam seals are pissing oil all over. Anyone know if Timken 1108 is the proper part to fix this? Also looking at Victor Reinz Cam Plugs to at least stop the bleeding in the meantime, and give a proper seal once the Plugs are replaced.


Other than the above, everything is running sweet! Starting to scrape together parts for other routine maintenance and whatnot.
Picked up a full set of brake pads - Hawk HPS Ceramics - will wait for the front pads to dip under 20% life remaining, possibly just swapping them in when I get my winter wheels setup ready for inclement weather.
Picked up a spare set of OE 18" RS6 wheels, getting them repainted Lava Grey to help hide brake dust and blend better with the car. Looking at Blizzak's to mount, question is do I go with cheap LM-60's on clearance on TireRack or spend the extra $50/ea for the new LM-39's? the 39's have a wider tread pattern, but winter tires should be a bit skinnier anyway to cut through snow and slush... Thoughts?
EGT Sensor readings are starting to go a little haywire. Considering pulling them and re-soldering the thermocouple input to see if that fixes the problem, otherwise gonna be another ~$500 in parts to keep the beast happy

[Dmb408]

Go with the 60's i got them on close out, no shame, still a great tire.

Where did you get the OE set of wheels!? I have been looking for a reasonably priced set to do the same thing (paint matte gray).

[Other_Erik]

Go with the 60's i got them on close out, no shame, still a great tire.

Where did you get the OE set of wheels!? I have been looking for a reasonably priced set to do the same thing (paint matte gray).

YGPM on OE wheels :)

[Other_Erik]

So back to my fun-filled wallet destruction...

Summer tires are just shy of bald, either going to pick up new Michelin PSS for the stock wheels or a set of OE 19's with tires already on them (roughly same price) - no probs there

Just recently, my turn signal stopped flashing. When I key off and then back on, I hit the stalk and the signal flashes once, sometimes a couple of times, then solid. Done my research and this may be a turn signal stalk replacement (need a part number for that), but I have to see if my hazards blink first, because if not then its more likely a hazards module replacement (more money, I'm sure, and need a part number for that)

Been a while since I updated this thread...
Re-soldered my EGT Sensors at the thermocouple wire to PCB in the housing, zero issues with those since then
Sold the S5 Prestige wheels/tires to a guy who blew 2 tires and destroyed 2 rims on his Allroad (Momo rims for the lose, apparently a 3" pothole is too much at 35 mph)
Got winter tires mounted on stockers that were painted Lava Grey (almost black), those look great
Raised the suspension (got rid of my clunking at full wheel-over turn at low speed)
Forced manual adjustment of headlights to highest possible. Now I can see maybe 60 feet down the road at night instead of 30

OCarbon review incoming, they are going to hate me :|

O_E

[Other_Erik]

So back to my fun-filled wallet destruction...

Summer tires are just shy of bald, either going to pick up new Michelin PSS for the stock wheels or a set of OE 19's with tires already on them (roughly same price) - no probs there

Just recently, my turn signal stopped flashing. When I key off and then back on, I hit the stalk and the signal flashes once, sometimes a couple of times, then solid. Done my research and this may be a turn signal stalk replacement (need a part number for that), but I have to see if my hazards blink first, because if not then its more likely a hazards module replacement (more money, I'm sure, and need a part number for that)

O_E

My hazards blink even when my turn signal won't, so it sounds like it's a turn signal stalk replacement for me. Anyone have a quick rundown of what's required? Hoping it's just remove the shroud, pull the screws, pull the old stalk and put the new one on in reverse order. Also, is this the correct part number? 8L0 953 513 N

Thanks
O_E

[mik15]

it might be the relay as well, it is common body with the hazard lights button on the dashboard, have you checked the fault code with the vcds?

[Other_Erik]

Quick follow-up on this issue

Got mine cleared up without having to spend anything (hooray for cheap fixes!)

Took a can of compressed air to the entire shroud area, blew out a bunch of dust. Turned on the car, turn signals function perfectly. I guess the contacts on the signal stalk had enough dust buildup they were not making proper constant contact. Never got around to reading the codes (too busy with the other vehicle at the moment), but there you have it, problem solved :)

O_E

[G2]

"Very heavily considering picking up the Wagner IC's being offered here, full kit will run me ~$1500 and hopefully help charge temp when I'm sitting in DC area traffic in the summertime."

Have you been able to test this theory? I have reservations on this actually working.....not that it would stop me.

[Other_Erik]

"Very heavily considering picking up the Wagner IC's being offered here, full kit will run me ~$1500 and hopefully help charge temp when I'm sitting in DC area traffic in the summertime."

Have you been able to test this theory? I have reservations on this actually working.....not that it would stop me.

I haven't. I posted that a while back, when someone had a set of unused Wag's they had purchased and never installed. I can't justify $2k to the wifey to replace parts that are in working order, especially since her Jeep is still half-apart in the garage, and we're moving house in a couple of weeks. My concern even with the higher volume and higher flow is that eventually, it will get heat-soaked. If you've got traffic and are worried about charge temp, you'd likely be better off switching over to an alcy spray system - can't recommend any brand since I haven't used them, but I hear that Devil's Own puts together some high-quality kit.