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kilian tuning
May 18th, 2013, 12:40
Hi all,

Found out the clunking noise from the right isnt coming from the <beep> DRC (http://unit20.org/) system but from the inner right cv joint.
I can move the cv joint about 1-2 mm from left to right, even the bolds which it is attached with move with it...
The right side area around the cv joint is covered in old Oil (http://opieoils.co.uk/) to, so i think theres not much Oil (http://opieoils.co.uk/) (if any) in it...

Anyone experienced this before?

4everRS
May 18th, 2013, 12:46
If there is movement within the transmission flange, you need to bring it in and have it shimmed.

However, it sounds like maybe its the cv joint itself. Get a new axle. Raxels builds replacements out of OEM audi parts and warrantees their work. I have new Raxles on both sides, and they have been good so far.

lswing
May 18th, 2013, 17:02
The output/drive shaft where it comes out of the trans loosens up, moreso on the passenger side i believe. My old trans has lots of play in that area, not sure if trans fluids can escape from there, and if you need to have trans out to fix.

4everrs, how did the shim work?

bmwade
May 19th, 2013, 00:09
If there is movement within the transmission flange, you need to bring it in and have it shimmed.

However, it sounds like maybe its the cv joint itself. Get a new axle. Raxels builds replacements out of OEM audi parts and warrantees their work. I have new Raxles on both sides, and they have been good so far.

+1 for Raxles!

Jimmy
May 20th, 2013, 12:05
X2 for Raxles....I got a set of them going on the allroad this week. Marty is great to deal with and I have not heard of anyone not being happy with his rebuilds. www.raxles.com (http://www.raxles.com)

kilian tuning
May 22nd, 2013, 09:15
... i can uctually move the inner cv joint about 1-2 mm in and out without moving the driveshaft...and while doing that its making the metal to metal noise which i hear inside the car while driving.i think the inner cv joint can freely move inside (tripode version...) so i dont think its the cv joint itself...

kilian tuning
May 23rd, 2013, 07:33
13893i cant see there could be play in the axle/cv joints, but there can be play in the axle on which the cv joint is attached to. the axle that goes into the gearbox...

kilian tuning
May 23rd, 2013, 10:49
13896this axle which goes into the gearbox and is connected to the inner cv joint could cause some play. prob the bold shown in the pic is loose. elsawin mention 25nm to get it right...

kilian tuning
May 23rd, 2013, 10:51
anyone heard this is a common fault?

SteveKen
May 23rd, 2013, 14:42
anyone heard this is a common fault?

Yes, and Tozo can probably chime in on this as well. I had this happen on one of my S6's.

I'm not sure what causes it, but I'll bet you've got a lot of play in your output flange coming from the front diff. Passenger side, correct?

Chances are that your bearing is worn (root cause or a symptom? I'm not sure) and you need to replace it along with the necessary shim that goes between the front diff case ans the outer race.

I'd recommend replacing the entire bearing, so you'd need to remove the front diff and have the inner race pulled of and then the new one pressed on. The shims start at 1mm thick and are available in increasing thicknesses by 0.1mm. I'm not sure how you measure for the correct shim thickness, so you might need to buy a few of them. Think they were like $16 each last I checked.

kilian tuning
May 23rd, 2013, 16:02
Yes, and Tozo can probably chime in on this as well. I had this happen on one of my S6's.

I'm not sure what causes it, but I'll bet you've got a lot of play in your output flange coming from the front diff. Passenger side, correct?

Chances are that your bearing is worn (root cause or a symptom? I'm not sure) and you need to replace it along with the necessary shim that goes between the front diff case ans the outer race.

I'd recommend replacing the entire bearing, so you'd need to remove the front diff and have the inner race pulled of and then the new one pressed on. The shims start at 1mm thick and are available in increasing thicknesses by 0.1mm. I'm not sure how you measure for the correct shim thickness, so you might need to buy a few of them. Think they were like $16 each last I checked.
Yeah its the passenger side. is it milage related? mine has done 103.000 km at the moment. can it cauge damage? Which numbers do you mean? nr 1 and 2? is it a diy job or not recommended? special tool needed? is there a write up diy somewhere with pics?13897

lswing
May 23rd, 2013, 18:09
Yes, and Tozo can probably chime in on this as well. I had this happen on one of my S6's.

I'm not sure what causes it, but I'll bet you've got a lot of play in your output flange coming from the front diff. Passenger side, correct?

Chances are that your bearing is worn (root cause or a symptom? I'm not sure) and you need to replace it along with the necessary shim that goes between the front diff case ans the outer race.

I'd recommend replacing the entire bearing, so you'd need to remove the front diff and have the inner race pulled of and then the new one pressed on. The shims start at 1mm thick and are available in increasing thicknesses by 0.1mm. I'm not sure how you measure for the correct shim thickness, so you might need to buy a few of them. Think they were like $16 each last I checked.

I second this, passenger side wears more, my last trans was very loose, 1/4 play or so at least. Two Audi mechanics I know have mentioned this is common wear over time. I suppose it's because that side has a longer CV I think?, creates more pressure and wear.

Edit; or maybe the wear is the fact the design is different on the pass side...

kilian tuning
May 24th, 2013, 14:04
can someone please point the right numbers to check for play...?

kilian tuning
May 24th, 2013, 18:06
from other forum:If the play is in the flange then the flange has worn and needs to be replaced, eventually the splines on the spider gears will wear and strip out as well as the seal leaking. If it's actually the diff that is moving then the transmission ring and pinion will slowly begin to chew itself resulting in needed a new trans.But how do i know what is causing the play when i remove the flange and look at the diff...? the diff could easily fall out when at it...

kilian tuning
May 25th, 2013, 19:00
Yeah its the passenger side. is it milage related? mine has done 103.000 km at the moment. can it cauge damage? Which numbers do you mean? nr 1 and 2? is it a diy job or not recommended? special tool needed? is there a write up diy somewhere with pics?13897
can someome please give me some more info on this? how to see which bearing is the culprit when nr9 has already been removed to see the bearings?its prob the bearing behind nr9.

lswing
May 25th, 2013, 19:08
Shouldn't that be in the repair manual? Maybe a good indie shop for this one...

kilian tuning
June 8th, 2013, 17:17
Yes, and Tozo can probably chime in on this as well. I had this happen on one of my S6's.

I'm not sure what causes it, but I'll bet you've got a lot of play in your output flange coming from the front diff. Passenger side, correct?

Chances are that your bearing is worn (root cause or a symptom? I'm not sure) and you need to replace it along with the necessary shim that goes between the front diff case ans the outer race.

I'd recommend replacing the entire bearing, so you'd need to remove the front diff and have the inner race pulled of and then the new one pressed on. The shims start at 1mm thick and are available in increasing thicknesses by 0.1mm. I'm not sure how you measure for the correct shim thickness, so you might need to buy a few of them. Think they were like $16 each last I checked.
ive taken the driveshaft of, but did see cant get at the diff without removing the engine. Elsawin mentions this to...

4everRS
June 8th, 2013, 17:43
Elsawin says to remove the engine for O2's as well.

An experienced shop could do it without the engine pull.

kilian tuning
June 8th, 2013, 19:58
...was surprised to find out while in ''P'', we still could turn the right driveshaft. is that normal?
Dont know which wheels are blocked when in ''P''.

kilian tuning
June 9th, 2013, 17:42
Anyone ever replaced a diff bearing without engine out?

kilian tuning
June 9th, 2013, 21:29
found another one with same issue, not rs6 though http://s148.photobucket.com/user/Ska_pics/media/DSCF0567.flv.html

kilian tuning
June 10th, 2013, 17:11
From Elsawin:

- Remove front exhaust pipe (left-side) and front exhaust pipe (right-side) with flexible element → Engine, mechanics; Rep. Gr.26. – Remove gearbox support (right-side)

Removing and installing front exhaust pipe (right-side) – Remove engine → Chapter.

kilian tuning
June 11th, 2013, 15:46
13949Whats this part? thats in front of the diff case and has to move...

kilian tuning
June 11th, 2013, 15:49
this...13950

kilian tuning
June 19th, 2013, 14:53
what part is this? and can it be easily removed to get the diff case out? (and prob have tp loosen/get out the turbo...)http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee469/mavada1/pass_h20_gfhgffgleak_zpsad16e86b.jpg (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/mavada1/media/pass_h20_gfhgffgleak_zpsad16e86b.jpg.html)

kilian tuning
June 27th, 2013, 17:11
...there must be someone over here whos had this problem tackled...

lswing
June 27th, 2013, 17:46
My trans was out when that was fixed...

kilian tuning
June 27th, 2013, 17:53
yeah thats much easier :) but im interested if its possible to get it done without removing turbo/engine/tranny/subframe

kilian tuning
June 29th, 2013, 20:48
...i managed to get the flange axle out and noticed the needlebearing can move in-and out for about 1-2 mm. Dont know if thats normal.
The part that covers the needlebearings hasnt got play. So i think the diff itself neither.
Was surprised there was oil coming out after all those kms leaking.
But i dont understand why i can move the flange in- and oud for about 1,5-2mm, but when i just insert the bold without the flange theres no play at all.
http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee469/mavada1/IMG_1152_zpsa8445e7c.jpg (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/mavada1/media/IMG_1152_zpsa8445e7c.jpg.html)
http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee469/mavada1/IMG_1151_zpse5f878b9.jpg (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/mavada1/media/IMG_1151_zpse5f878b9.jpg.html)

kilian tuning
June 30th, 2013, 07:40
...but i dont understand why theres play in the in-out direction....that has nothing to do with a bearing is it? if a bearing is kaput there should be play in opposite direction...?

kilian tuning
June 30th, 2013, 08:20
here you can see and hear the play, that sound is exactly what i hear while driving...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7uC4PVserM&feature=youtu.be

kilian tuning
June 30th, 2013, 09:05
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkV_pu98G8E&feature=youtu.be (http://anonym.to/?http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkV_pu98G8E&feature=youtu.be)

Could it just be the inner cv joint isnt giving enough resistance after time, to eliminate the play? in other words, driveshaft gone...?

kilian tuning
July 1st, 2013, 13:43
...can i get the needlebearing out without removing the whole diff (...and diff case...)? cos i think thats the culprit. rest of the bearing hasnt got play...

kilian tuning
July 2nd, 2013, 16:38
...found out my inner cv boot is shot too, got a new one, but it seems i have to remove the outer one first to get the new one on...13988

kilian tuning
July 4th, 2013, 14:31
...found some greasy/oil covered part here, but dont know exactly what part it is and if its something to have a look at/worrie about...13991

kilian tuning
July 8th, 2013, 15:56
http://forums.quattroworld.com/a8/msgs/69890.phtml