19x9.5 Correct ET (Forgestar F14)

[KWest]

Hey everyone,
I've read every wheel thread I could find. I'm 95% sure I'm going to have a set of Forgestar F14s done for the car in 19x9.5. I'd like to run a 275/30, I'm thinking ET28 would be about right.

Any thoughts on the ET?

Thanks in advance.

[Elevens]

I run a 19"x10" ET35 wheel, which require a 5mm spacer up front to keep the wheel of the bearing carrier. This results in an effective ET30, which I believe is around the stock ET. So an ET of 28 should be fine with out the need of a wheel spacer. Of course this all dependent on wheel design and is not written in stone, what might work for one wheel will not necessarily work for a different style of wheel under the same conditions. Sometimes it boils down to trial and error. But I do believe that most wheels with an ET28 should be fine..............

[ttboost]

My 19x9.5 Volks are ET29, no spacers.

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[DHall1]

My vote is for ET30

We know that ET32 just clears the front carrier on a 9.5 wheel. I would not want the fronts sticking out too much at all. Esp if your lowering the car.

[SteveKen]

I had 275/30's on 19 x 9's and lowered. An ET27 was too much and the tires rubbed on the fenders. I ended up with an ET32 which worked pretty well.

[KWest]

Thanks guys,
I do have PSS9s for the car, they are going to be set to get the correct wheel gap. ET30 is probably a better number, I can always add a thin spacers if needed.

Looking at more pictures I might go 19x9 so I can get the semi-concave vs the deep concave of the 9.5.

[bakes]

My F14's are 19*10 with an ET30 and I've had to run 5mm spacers to clear on the front. Has pushed my tires out a bit too far for my liking but I bought the wheels second hand so going with a 9 or 9.5" wide rim was not in the cards.

[buster0984]

My F14's are 19*10 with an ET30 and I've had to run 5mm spacers to clear on the front. Has pushed my tires out a bit too far for my liking but I bought the wheels second hand so going with a 9 or 9.5" wide rim was not in the cards.

are yours the super deep concave or deep concave? in the front i think i've seen that you should either run semi or deep in order to clear the brakes. the super deep concave don't get along well in the front with big brakes due to the angle at which the spokes come into the hub at.

I was thinking about getting the F14's as well and my plan was to run a 19x9 or 9.5 et 30 upfront with a 245/40/19 and 19/10 et30 out back with a 275/35/19 to keep the rotational diameter the same (tires might vary a tiny bit but my goal is to have 40's upfront and 35's in the back for alittle extra rim pertection and cushion). I was doing this because i wanted the super deep concave in the back and more of a flat face in the front. not sure if i want semi or deep in the front yet. also if you look at picture the semi concave face is for all intensive purposes flat with just a little inward movement in the center when the lugs are.

i won't be able to slam the car (i have KW V3's) but i should be able to get a nice stance, which is okay with me because i've been there and have gotten old haha.

hope this helps a bit.

[KWest]

bakes do you have any side shots of your car?

[bakes]

do a search on this site for forgestar and you'll see some pics...I'm on KW V'3s aswell and this spring have lowered my car at least 1/2 of an inch from those pics. At some point I will try to take a pic to show the current look. I think I need to lower the rear by tad to balance the look but it's way better than before. I've noticed that my springs squeek on some very abrupt bumps in the road. Anybody experienced that with KW 3's?

Buster0984, my issue is not the spokes and the brakes but more the wheel rim hitting the control arm or whatever it's called. That is the challenge with the 10" rim width. Hence my need for a spacer. All is good now though.

[buster0984]

do a search on this site for forgestar and you'll see some pics...I'm on KW V'3s aswell and this spring have lowered my car at least 1/2 of an inch from those pics. At some point I will try to take a pic to show the current look. I think I need to lower the rear by tad to balance the look but it's way better than before. I've noticed that my springs squeek on some very abrupt bumps in the road. Anybody experienced that with KW 3's?

Buster0984, my issue is not the spokes and the brakes but more the wheel rim hitting the control arm or whatever it's called. That is the challenge with the 10" rim width. Hence my need for a spacer. All is good now though.

got ya...so your rim was actually hitting the upright. i was worried about that as well, that why i'm going to either stagger the wheel and use different size tires to have the same diameter or go 9 or 9.5 square.

what is you center of wheel to fender arch measurement since you lowered it...would love to see a side pic.

good info though!

[Elevens]

Don't suggest Staggering. For reasons I'm not to sure of It's not recommended, it may have to do with different contact patches affecting the ABS system. I staggered on my previous A6 27T with no issues I could see. I just made sure that my overall Tire Diameter's were all the same. Any rate it's not recommended. Tire Rotation also becomes more difficult, If not Impossible. If you want a nice aggressive look put 275 19's at each corner and call it a day..........................

[Jimmy Joe]

Staggering as mentioned would make the car understeer a bit more, since the contact patch of the tires would be different, something not needed in an already nose heavy, understeering car. The opposite would help, but it would look awful.

[Elevens]

Staggering as mentioned would make the car understeer a bit more, since the contact patch of the tires would be different, something not needed in an already nose heavy, understeering car. The opposite would help, but it would look awful.

Very True.................

[repda503]

I'm also on PSS9's and just put on 19x9.5 ET25 miro 111's (same setup as RSSIK). I currently rub on top part of front fenders. I am getting them rolled tmrw and will update how it is after that.

[buster0984]

the only reason i would staggered is to have a more concave look in the rear and more of flat face in the front. i thought also about staggering the offsets between the front and rear to achieve the same look i just have to investigate how drastic i can change the offset and get okay.

also, KW V3 and hotckhis sway bars, better motor mounts, tranny mounts and other small tweaks throughout the chassis go along way to help keep things very flat in the corners. another thing that would help this out would be to change the diff. to a 4-1 unit essentially making the car rear wheel biased.

[KWest]

Turns out the real lead time for Forgestar's is 4-6 weeks, so I needed to find something in the meantime. MRR HR4 20x9 ET35 w/5mm spacer in the front, 8mm spacer in the back. It's rough right now with the DRC and Hotchkis Bars, I can only think the PSS are going to make it worse.