Airbox re-install

[ryan]

I took out my airbox to tap into my vacuum lines to run a boost gauge and now i am having a hard time getting the thing back in. The rear where the MAF's go into the inlet tubes are not fully seating correctly. Im pretty sure they have to be flush. I looked at the seals, they look fine. It goes in easy than there is still about a 1/8 in gap between them. I know it was a pain getting it out of there. Anybody know the trick to get it back fully seated?

[TOAvusRS6]

I know it was a pain getting it out of there. Anybody know the trick to get it back fully seated?

In short, patience. :-)

I had the same issue a while ago when I had to change my spark plugs, and needed to take the box out. The trick I found to get it done is to start with the seating of the MAFs first - meaning try to work with getting the MAFs into the intakes first, and then level the front of the airbox. This worked for me, but others may have other ideas to share.

You definitely do not want to leave a gap or you will be throwing a check engine light in no time.

Good luck.

[ryan]

i have been working with it for about an hour now, still no progress.1370513706

[Bigglezworth]

Patience is a virtue yes. Definately not one of the better designs out there. I ended up unscrewing the MAF housings from the underside of the aircleaner housing and ensuring they sit tight in the downpipes. I then dropped the air cleaner assembly over top of the MAF's and push down the two middle pins in to the rubber grommets on the intake. No problemo.

[NSU RS6]

There is no reason to disassemble everything - but there is an order.

Before you reinstall the box, check the center support posts for cracking. Mine are fine, but I just saw another at a friends shop that had cracked and were being JB welded for reinforcement.

Be sure that the support posts and MAF inlet tubes are smooth and free of any gouges. Apply a light film of motor oil about all mating surfaces.

Apply a light film of oil about the air inlet seals that engage the MAF and the support post grommets on the intake.

Before installing anything - connect the MAFS. This is the time you have the most room to do so.

Move the box aft, noting the forward center mounting screw location, as well as the two nutted side mount locations.

When these are lined up, pretty much everything is lined up, so begin to apply downward pressure over the center support posts and also between the air inlets at the MAF.

Mine popped right in.

Another trick I learned about the driver's side mount nut - do this one first, or at least get it started. There is not much room to start this nut with your fingers, but there is alot more if you lift the threaded post slightly to start the nut. You want to do this before the other fasteners are engaged so you don't bend the box.

Good luck.

[ryan]

I got it back in this afternoon and clear the codes and did a re-scan. good to go! wow is that a pain in the ass or what

[905084]

Unscrew the MAF's from the airbox...install the MAF's, then slide the airbox over the MAF's. There is absolutely no reason for the MAF's to be screwed to the airbox. This will keep you from tearing up the wiring to the MAF's as the wiring is probably cooked from the heat of the turbos.

[LIRS6]

I've been struggling with re-installation as well. Thought I had the box seated properly, turned the engine on and had exhaust (?) coming up from under the back of the box. I've tried re-seating them about five times; the back of the box always seems to have some up/down play to it. Is this normal? The bentleys shows an acceptable gap of 5 mm. The seals look good.

Oh - does anyone know the size of the bolt used for the driver side connection of the box?

[hahnmgh63]

There is the Apikol upgrade out there for the MAF seals but I installed new OEM a few years ago when I had the engine out and I lubricate the MAF seals with the Clear Dow Corning Silicone grease which causes them to slip in a little easier and the 100% Silicone grease is good for the rubber.