VAGCOM CODES APPEARED;: ¿ What do they mean and how can I fix´ém?

[Jimmy Joe]

Last week the Beast turned on the yellow "Engine Check" light. On the VAGCOM registered fault codes 17867 sensor 2 EGTR- 6236 and 17819 secondary air injection system bank 2
cp 1411-002 insuf. flux. ¿ Can any of our learned members explain to me what´s wrong and how to go about fixin´ it? Thank you very much for your help. http://www.rs6.com/smilies/Icon-mech.gifhttp://www.rs6.com/images/icons/icon5.png

[ttboost]

OK...it sounds like your bank 2 EGT sensor crapped out and there is a problem with your secondary air system.

EGT is easy, buy a new one and just plug it in. HAHAHAHAHA. Sorry had to....EGT sensors are a small box (bolted to the drivers side firewall, in the engine compartment.They are both together, bolted back to back), the shielded wires run down to the exhaust manifolds, where the sensor itself screws into the manifold. This can be done with the engine in the car, but you better have long skinny arms or a friend with long skinny arms.

SAI is a little more tricky. There are a few more pieces to this useless system. You have:

1. a pump (engine bay, left side, black plastic pump bolted to fender well) It has a plug and a hose connected to it. This pump could be bad. About $600-$800 (most of us elect to have our tuners code it out and remove all this. It is only for emissions at engine warmup.

2. Solenoid - this is located under the front engine cover. Use your thumbs to remove the small front engine cover, and you will see a small solenoid towards the front left/center of the engine. It has a vacuum line coming in from the right and a vacuum line going towards the back of the engine to the combi valves (see line 3) This solenoid could be bad. $40-$70

3. Combi valves. These are located on the back of each cylinder head. They can get all carboned up and need to be cleaned or replaced. Not sure how much, but not terribly expensive as I recall.

Some of us got fed up with all these high maintenance nuisances and had them removed. I'm sure someone can elaborate if I have missed something...

Good luck with your DIY maintenance!!!!

[Jimmy Joe]

Thank you very much, TTboost. I couldn´t have hoped for a clearer, more precise information on what´s wrong on the engine or how to go about it. you definitively made my day. However, as much as i´d like to get rid of those almost useless emission systems, the fact is that here in Mexico we have to take our cars to be inspected for compliance with emmissions inspections every six months, I am afraid the Beast
won´t pass unless I get that problem fixed, but we all knew that going in, didn´t we ?. A PITA? yes, expensive?, yes, Would we drive anything else? No. As one of our fellow Forum members said. " It's like being
married to a supermodel with a horrendous menstrual problem. Thanks again.

[V8weight]

The secondary air code is almost always a tear in the vacuum hose where it meets the combination valve..

[ttboost]

The secondary air code is almost always a tear in the vacuum hose where it meets the combination valve..


Yeah, good point too... Check ALL of your vacuum lines and change ANY that look dryrotted.

[Jimmy Joe]

Thank you guys, you are swell. I'll do as instructed. One litlle thing more. ¿Is there a way to check the pump? I'll hate to spend that kind of money needlessly.

[ttboost]

You can take it out (it's fairly easy to get out). 3 bolts, 1 electrical plug and a hose clamp. have to be creative to get it out with bracket on, but it can be done. You can bench test it, or test it in the car. Just put 12v to the connector. It will probably be full of water, which means it's junk. You'll know after you pull the hose off. After 3 of them, I quit.

[Aronis]

1349813499
The secondary air code is almost always a tear in the vacuum hose where it meets the combination valve..

yes, easy to tear it while disconnecting the wire to the MAF....especially on the drivers side.

Mike