kismetcapitan
October 9th, 2012, 07:52
I want to get my leaky injector O-rings done this month, but the wife wants a cost estimate, and she didn't think it was funny when I said the rubber rings would cost about $10.
I'm estimating what it'll take to do the job...feel free to add your expertise over my guesswork:
- remove airbox
- unbolt fuel rail
- pull rail, replace O-rings
- reassemble
That's what, an hour or two of shop labor?
Potential problems/delays:
- poor O-ring fitment: can't recall which site, but I came across a thread discussing A4s(?) with the same problem and that the VAG part was a touch too small, which compounded the problem
- getting injectors serviced: I know someone mentioned this, but who's good at servicing injectors? Pulling the injectors and sending them out overnight back and forth isn't a problem. I'd love to put in my favorite injectors (RC Racing), but even if I matched the flow rate, the lag times are completely different as RC uses a different mechanism (a rotating disc instead of a piston I think) that has them injecting faster. Without compensating for that in the ECU, it'll throw everything off. So stock it is.
btw, what's the commonly accepted longevity for fuel pumps? Is the stock main pump a Bosch 044? If not, is anyone using one? and then there's the lifter pump in the tank. I have reason to be paranoid about fuel pumps; if you're unlucky and a pump fails while you're at maximum boost, you can fry all your pistons. This happened to me with my old Skyline, and that damned $200 part ended up costing me $15,000 in an engine rebuild. Doesn't happen that often when a pump fails, but it can be catastrophic.
And I guess I'll have my Phaeton ducts installed as well at this point.
And THEN, my car will be at 100%!! (the fuel leak lasts only until the car is warm; at that point, whatever is loose has expanded and seals it off. This only happens when the temps drop below 50 degrees and the car is outside and completely cools down...which is why I was baffled as to why it wouldn't do it when starting cold from home, since my garage is warm).
I'm estimating what it'll take to do the job...feel free to add your expertise over my guesswork:
- remove airbox
- unbolt fuel rail
- pull rail, replace O-rings
- reassemble
That's what, an hour or two of shop labor?
Potential problems/delays:
- poor O-ring fitment: can't recall which site, but I came across a thread discussing A4s(?) with the same problem and that the VAG part was a touch too small, which compounded the problem
- getting injectors serviced: I know someone mentioned this, but who's good at servicing injectors? Pulling the injectors and sending them out overnight back and forth isn't a problem. I'd love to put in my favorite injectors (RC Racing), but even if I matched the flow rate, the lag times are completely different as RC uses a different mechanism (a rotating disc instead of a piston I think) that has them injecting faster. Without compensating for that in the ECU, it'll throw everything off. So stock it is.
btw, what's the commonly accepted longevity for fuel pumps? Is the stock main pump a Bosch 044? If not, is anyone using one? and then there's the lifter pump in the tank. I have reason to be paranoid about fuel pumps; if you're unlucky and a pump fails while you're at maximum boost, you can fry all your pistons. This happened to me with my old Skyline, and that damned $200 part ended up costing me $15,000 in an engine rebuild. Doesn't happen that often when a pump fails, but it can be catastrophic.
And I guess I'll have my Phaeton ducts installed as well at this point.
And THEN, my car will be at 100%!! (the fuel leak lasts only until the car is warm; at that point, whatever is loose has expanded and seals it off. This only happens when the temps drop below 50 degrees and the car is outside and completely cools down...which is why I was baffled as to why it wouldn't do it when starting cold from home, since my garage is warm).