No warranty - What should I be worried about?

[1uglymug]

I have 51,000 miles.

Below are a list of major and most recent repairs (receipts from previous owner). I put the dealership cost in as a reference for folks.

39,056 miles
DRC suspension service - Warranty (no cost listed)
Left front CV boot - $337.20
Replace upper control arm bushings - $571.64
4 Wheel Alignment - $99.95

47,038 miles
Front Brakes - $1763.36
Rear Brakes - $1371.28
Fuel Tank Rollover Valve Nipple (this included: JY recall, Bold, Rep Sep, Gasket, Clamp, Mixing Jet, Adhesive) - Warranty (no cost listed)
45000 mile service - $250.00
Oil Change + BG MOA + BG 44K - $225.65
BG Brake Flush (recommended q2yrs) - $142.13
BG front differential fluid exchange (synthetic) - $127.84
BG power steering fluid exchange (synthetic) - $147.40

47,156
Torch converter clutch replaced
Replaced transmission fluid and filter
Install new transmission pan gasket
Replace right front CV boot
Total visit - $6474.89

Feel free to comment on the above list.

Being cheap, I did not want to spend $5000 on a warranty and then have to fight with them to have work covered. Reading forum comments on warranties, I sense I could be short sighted.

What are the major repairs I should be worried about at this point?

Should I absolutely be in search of a warranty company?

Thank you in advance for your input.

[lswing]

TC and Trans are the big ticket items, but you might be able to get a good warranty with your low miles. Sensors can cost $1-2k, oil cooler pipe could break $2k, leaks from cooling system, seals.....

[mrdave]

How handy are you with repairs? I also don't have a warranty but I'm not too concerned about it. If you can do most maintenance and some repairs yourself I don't think an aftermarket warranty is worth it. However, if you plan on paying a shop to do all of the work to your car then it may be beneficial.

[marklar182]

I dont see a timing belt service on there, but I am sure it was done if the PO had all that other stuff done.

What you can do is go to an Audi dealer with your VIN and they can pull a full service history for you.

[Spidercat]

As has been said before, if you don't have the resources to work on the car yourself (time, space, etc.) get the best warranty you can.

I've got the Fidelity Gold Plus (one step below Platinum), and have kicked myself ever since for not upgrading to Platinum when I extended it. It was about $2-3K more, but the last 3 things that went bad weren't on the list of "covered" items, and labor alone exceeded the difference (A/C hose, suction jet pump, and latest is oil cooler pipe causing a slow coolant leak--being replaced w/Bufkin aluminum part ftw). Parts weren't that bad, it's the labor that kills to replace all these stupid cheap plastic parts that inevitably bake and crack over time due to that tightly packed Cosworth heat generator under our hoods.

These items are supposedly covered under Platinum, but not Gold Plus because the weren't specifically listed as included under the coverage.

[1uglymug]

How handy are you with repairs? I also don't have a warranty but I'm not too concerned about it. If you can do most maintenance and some repairs yourself I don't think an aftermarket warranty is worth it. However, if you plan on paying a shop to do all of the work to your car then it may be beneficial.

I bought a Ross Tech VAG COM and the Bentley service manual and with other help here, I will be attempting to do most things myself. I will not be comfortable dropping the engine or anything of that nature, at least not by myself. But for most things, if I can take it apart, I can usually get it all back together.

[1uglymug]

TC and Trans are the big ticket items, but you might be able to get a good warranty with your low miles. Sensors can cost $1-2k, oil cooler pipe could break $2k, leaks from cooling system, seals.....

This is what I need to know. What are high on the list of items that typically break, and what is the cost to repair them? What are the big ticket items left that could go wrong? I need a risk/reward ratio in my mind before going after a warranty.

[lswing]

AC $2k, almost forgot....

[ben916]

I have 51,000 miles.

Below are a list of major and most recent repairs (receipts from previous owner). I put the dealership cost in as a reference for folks.

39,056 miles
DRC suspension service - Warranty (no cost listed)
Left front CV boot - $337.20
Replace upper control arm bushings - $571.64
4 Wheel Alignment - $99.95

47,038 miles
Front Brakes - $1763.36
Rear Brakes - $1371.28
Fuel Tank Rollover Valve Nipple (this included: JY recall, Bold, Rep Sep, Gasket, Clamp, Mixing Jet, Adhesive) - Warranty (no cost listed)
45000 mile service - $250.00
Oil Change + BG MOA + BG 44K - $225.65
BG Brake Flush (recommended q2yrs) - $142.13
BG front differential fluid exchange (synthetic) - $127.84
BG power steering fluid exchange (synthetic) - $147.40

47,156
Torch converter clutch replaced
Replaced transmission fluid and filter
Install new transmission pan gasket
Replace right front CV boot
Total visit - $6474.89

Feel free to comment on the above list.

Being cheap, I did not want to spend $5000 on a warranty and then have to fight with them to have work covered. Reading forum comments on warranties, I sense I could be short sighted.

What are the major repairs I should be worried about at this point?

Should I absolutely be in search of a warranty company?

Thank you in advance for your input.


Ah! RS6 = a healthy diet of gas and money!

looking at your list above, a majority of it is maintaining the car... except for the bolded area.
If you are comfortable with spending $6k on service to replace the Torque Converter, then you fine without a warranty.
If you aren't comfortable with spending $6k on service to replace the TQ, then you might consider a warranty.

It looks like those prices are from a dealership.

Case in point:
oil cooler tube from the block to the oil cooler to circulate coolant to keep the oil somewhat cooler.
cost of OEM part = ±$50
cost to access and replace part = $5300 (motor removal)
cost of my aftermarket warranty = $3300
cost @ time of pickup from Audi service = $230 (deductible plus some tax)

There are others on here that have saved tens of thousands WITH a warranty...

[Spidercat]

oil cooler tube from the block to the oil cooler to circulate coolant to keep the oil somewhat cooler.
cost of OEM part = ±$50
cost to access and replace part = $5300 (motor removal)
cost of my aftermarket warranty = $3300
cost @ time of pickup from Audi service = $230 (deductible plus some tax)



Ben, what warranty do you have? You got a great deal.

I paid more than that for the Gold Plus coverage from Fidelity, and they will not cover the oil cooler pipe since it's not specifically on the list of "covered" items. I've been just keeping the coolant topped off since it's such a slow leak (for the moment, anyway) until something else comes up that require engine removal.

To the OP, as Ben points out, engine removal is expensive. So one big "oh, crap" (valve cover gasket, TC, oil cooler tube, etc.) and the warranty has paid for itself. These are not uncommon problems. No one can give you an expected frequency that they will occur. Just always have some money in the bank for when they do if you decide to forego the warranty.
Also, a good Indy shop may be able to do some of these things without removing the engine, but the dealer won't (or at least won't pass the savings on to you, I bet).

[1uglymug]

To the OP, as Ben points out, engine removal is expensive. So one big "oh, crap" (valve cover gasket, TC, oil cooler tube, etc.) and the warranty has paid for itself. These are not uncommon problems. No one can give you an expected frequency that they will occur. Just always have some money in the bank for when they do if you decide to forego the warranty.
Also, a good Indy shop may be able to do some of these things without removing the engine, but the dealer won't (or at least won't pass the savings on to you, I bet).

Thanks for the tip! I might stop in a local indy shop to get an idea of their pricing. By the way, how much were you quoted for a Fidelity Platinum plan?

[Elevens]

If you've done your research on the Forums, RS6+Warranty is a No Brainer. Transmission and or Torque Converter will go, especially if modded. This alone offsets the cost of the Warranty. My engine has been out twice each time being covered by Warranty. Once for the TC and once for the Transmission. In one of those instances they also agreed to cover replacing the EGT sensors and Valve Cover Gaskets as a preventive Maintenance measure while the Engine was out. Just my opinion, but a Warranty is a must..........................

[Spidercat]

Thanks for the tip! I might stop in a local indy shop to get an idea of their pricing. By the way, how much were you quoted for a Fidelity Platinum plan?
It was a couple years ago, but I wanna say between $7-7.5K? I got the Gold Plus for I think $4.5K? Not too sure, since I keep the work records in the car. I'll check tonight on my way home, but it may be moot, since they may not offer this anymore. Also, my car had 59K mi at the time.

[ttboost]

Everything!! LOL...

[eanders]

I have 51,000 miles.

Below are a list of major and most recent repairs (receipts from previous owner). I put the dealership cost in as a reference for folks.

39,056 miles
DRC suspension service - Warranty (no cost listed)
Left front CV boot - $337.20
Replace upper control arm bushings - $571.64
4 Wheel Alignment - $99.95

47,038 miles
Front Brakes - $1763.36
Rear Brakes - $1371.28
Fuel Tank Rollover Valve Nipple (this included: JY recall, Bold, Rep Sep, Gasket, Clamp, Mixing Jet, Adhesive) - Warranty (no cost listed)
45000 mile service - $250.00
Oil Change + BG MOA + BG 44K - $225.65
BG Brake Flush (recommended q2yrs) - $142.13
BG front differential fluid exchange (synthetic) - $127.84
BG power steering fluid exchange (synthetic) - $147.40

47,156
Torch converter clutch replaced
Replaced transmission fluid and filter
Install new transmission pan gasket
Replace right front CV boot
Total visit - $6474.89

Feel free to comment on the above list.

Being cheap, I did not want to spend $5000 on a warranty and then have to fight with them to have work covered. Reading forum comments on warranties, I sense I could be short sighted.

What are the major repairs I should be worried about at this point?

Should I absolutely be in search of a warranty company?

Thank you in advance for your input.


Please see the thread I started about a week ago... http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/24648-Extended-warranty-costs...-exorbitant

If you find a warranty company that is legit (note 90+ percent are not) and will write the Beast at a fair price please share it. I was looking at something like $7,500 with a $250 deductible. Here's a big learning... if you buy the car from Audi, they will write a warranty on it. If you are like me, and didn't buy from Audi, they won't. I don't think you can get the great Fidelity warranty that everyone raves about. Please let me know directly if you come up with one. I am planning $3-4k per year on this car, hope it doesn't go north of that.

[twinsteve]

Please see the thread I started about a week ago... http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/24648-Extended-warranty-costs...-exorbitant

If you find a warranty company that is legit (note 90+ percent are not) and will write the Beast at a fair price please share it. I was looking at something like $7,500 with a $250 deductible. Here's a big learning... if you buy the car from Audi, they will write a warranty on it. If you are like me, and didn't buy from Audi, they won't. I don't think you can get the great Fidelity warranty that everyone raves about. Please let me know directly if you come up with one. I am planning $3-4k per year on this car, hope it doesn't go north of that.

I didn't buy my car from Audi, buy they did indeed sell me a Fidelity Platinum policy.....they just required an Audi dealer to do PPI-type inspection first to check for pre-existing conditions

[eanders]

I didn't buy my car from Audi, buy they did indeed sell me a Fidelity Platinum policy.....they just required an Audi dealer to do PPI-type inspection first to check for pre-existing conditions
I will call my Audi dealer in the morning and see if that's a possibility... is not something he offered when I first spoke with him. Thanks for sharing. If anyone else has a good extended warranty company to share please do so.

[ben916]

Ben, what warranty do you have? You got a great deal.

I paid more than that for the Gold Plus coverage from Fidelity, and they will not cover the oil cooler pipe since it's not specifically on the list of "covered" items. I've been just keeping the coolant topped off since it's such a slow leak (for the moment, anyway) until something else comes up that require engine removal.

To the OP, as Ben points out, engine removal is expensive. So one big "oh, crap" (valve cover gasket, TC, oil cooler tube, etc.) and the warranty has paid for itself. These are not uncommon problems. No one can give you an expected frequency that they will occur. Just always have some money in the bank for when they do if you decide to forego the warranty.
Also, a good Indy shop may be able to do some of these things without removing the engine, but the dealer won't (or at least won't pass the savings on to you, I bet).

Mine is Protective/Prism Supreme with a differential for AWD and Turbo, deductible is $200.
I will be calling them for then next 3yr/36k in Jan 2013 (assuming the Mayan predictions are incorrect)

[cjargo]

Your solution to save money maybe worse than your problem in the big picture. I have yet to hear a RS6 owner regret having bought a warranty. One year into my 48K / 4 year / $4300.00 warranty with zero deductible, it has paid for itself. Aside from regular maintenance, it covers everything, even the timing belt. I purchased the car with 48K pampered miles with impeccable maintenance records, and currently it has 55K miles on the clock. Unfortunately there will always be big ticket items in the mail for any RS6 owner. My 2 cents says "Pull the trigger", and know there will be the day you will high 5 yourself for buying a warranty. Cheers.

[eanders]

Your solution to save money maybe worse than your problem in the big picture. I have yet to hear a RS6 owner regret having bought a warranty. One year into my 48K / 4 year / $4300.00 warranty with zero deductible, it has paid for itself. Aside from regular maintenance, it covers everything, even the timing belt. I purchased the car with 48K pampered miles with impeccable maintenance records, and currently it has 55K miles on the clock. Unfortunately there will always be big ticket items in the mail for any RS6 owner. My 2 cents says "Pull the trigger", and know there will be the day you will high 5 yourself for buying a warranty. Cheers.

I've seen the light and finally found a warranty I'm comfortable with. Am either going Fidelity or Continental Casualty Company through CNA.

[G2]

Items over-looked are likely to to be expensive repairs, irrespective of what a dealer or Audi specifies for service "needs".

My first concern being a new RS6 owner was to change the fluids, even at 72K miles, but nearly 9 years. The "lifetime" drivetrain fluids are not adequate by my standards, ESPECIALLY for a a vehicle that is so torque rich (which will shear down oil that much faster).

Once drained the fluids reaffirmed my concerns: old, discolored, bad smelling, contaminated, and thinned out (looking gear lubes) and very dark/black ATF fluid.

In went 85-140 Amsoil Severe Gear lube in all 3 differentials and Amsoil ATF fluid (full flush, NOT a drain and fill service). I felt that the OE spec 75-90 gear oil to be inadequate for my vehicle, it's use, and the local climate (rarely freezes). I also had 75-110 Amsoil on hand for the front diff. but since it has a hot turbo mounted above it and doesn't get much air flow, opted for the thicker oil (when it's hot; same "cold" viscosity).

I would only use the OE grade gear lube if changed every 1-2 years, the car was stock HP/TQ, not driven hard and not in a hot climate, or was a very low mileage example with a known service and owner history (read: single owner that can attest to how it's been used).

The power steering is next: fluid flush. Want to keep the fluid fresh both for better viscosity stability and prevent acidity levels from elevating that will attack rubber parts and seals-- which causes leaks.

To make up for lost time will change the drivetrain fluids in a year, then extend the drain interval to 2-3 years. This will keep the oil in viscosity range and provide ideal rust protection.

Fluid samples were taken and will be sent into for UOA. I know it won't be pretty, but want hard scientific data for a starting point. More to follow in the future.

From my experience nearly all mechanical failures or problems are due to poor lubrication. Seems these cars need and use a lot of lubes and overall it's cheap insurance to frequently change them.

I get my lubes at www.oiloregon.com

I've also noticed on newer trucks the OEM's are recommending (mandating?) gear oil replacement at very low miles due to break-in. I can verify this on a new 2011 Mustang GT that had the R&P changed. In 1K miles the oil had metal flakes in it (Royal Purple lube partly to blame??) using a Ford gear kit (read: OEM quality).

Naturally there are other services and maintenance needed besides lubes, but are so often over looked.

From one new RS6 owner to another, congrats on the new purchase.

[eanders]

1uglymug... my learnings / response is that you should be worried about getting a warranty if you're like me and can't fix the car yourself.

My two cents from a 3-week long search for the right warranty is summarized below:
1. Beware of sub-par companies, and most are. Even if the contract looks good the question becomes will they pay and how long will they take - lots of horror stories out there. After too many hours of research and almost a bad decision I narrowed it down to Easy Care and Fidelity (written under lots of names... believe Costco's is the same carrier). Easy Care has a great reputation, but they were very expensive.
2. Audi stealers will indeed write vehicles that were not purchased from them... I got some bad information in this regard, but as it turns out, Audi was my best bet... they have the most to lose by selling a bad product.
3. The Audi stealers have room to move on the price... shopped a couple dealers and saved about $500... was still expensive, though.

[G2]

My wife, having worked in the banking industry and able to sell car warranties, was instrumental is getting us great deals on warranties thru the various dealerships we've bought vehicles from.

Because she could buy at wholesale, would just hardline the dealer and get it for wholesale. Granted they wouldn't make much, it saved us the hassle of paying up front for the warranty afterwords. In some cases the warranty was better priced and covered niche vehicles that otherwise would couldn't get covered.

Use this information as you feel fit to negotiate down what would otherwise be an expensive or overpriced warranty product. In short there's no reason to pay much more than about 50% of the full "normal" price.

[1uglymug]

I am seeing the light as well. Thank you for all your replies! I will talk to a few dealerships this week. Will keep you posted. eanders, did you have to take your car into the dealership for inspection? Where did you end up going? There is only one Audi dealer here in Columbus. We might need to compare notes since you are not far from me.

[eanders]

I am seeing the light as well. Thank you for all your replies! I will talk to a few dealerships this week. Will keep you posted. eanders, did you have to take your car into the dealership for inspection? Where did you end up going? There is only one Audi dealer here in Columbus. We might need to compare notes since you are not far from me.

I actually started with Byers Audi in Columbus. They offered me a lower price than I was seeing up here in Cleveland. Byers wanted to see the car for a complete inspection. I called one of the Audi dealers in Cleveland and was able to get their price down a bit from Byers (not much, though), although they started much higher than Byers. This Audi dealer only did a cursory review of the car - drove it, looked at the engine, that was about it. I was expecting a 200 point inspection, but it was not that at all. I suspect some dealers may dig deeper into the vehicle - could be a good source of immediate service revenue and / or exclusions for Fidelity. Ping me to compare even more detailed notes. I will say I am driving the car with much more relief now.