Broken cv joint...

[kilian tuning]

http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee469/mavada1/DSC02497.jpg
http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee469/mavada1/DSC02509.jpg
http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee469/mavada1/DSC02512.jpg

so its gonna be a diy job, but ive got a couple of questions:
1. Do i have to dismantle and clean the outer cv joint like in the pic below to make sure its all clean inside? cos i dont know for how long its leaking...
http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee469/mavada1/DisassembingcleaningrepackingOuterCVJoints_-AudiWorldForums.jpg
2. How to get this bold loose, ive heard this can be a pita, the use of a vibrator tool is recommended...if not available, just hammer it out with some wd40 being applied? Is it adviceable to replace it with a new bold?
http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee469/mavada1/dscn1634n.jpg
3. Is it possible to get it back together without a torque wrench? or not recommended?
4. the collar bolt for drive axle can be a pita to get loose to. anti-clockwise
5. probably other things to check while it is loose?
6. OEM boot recommended or not that important?

[Bigglezworth]

1. Do i have to dismantle and clean the outer cv joint like in the pic below to make sure its all clean inside? cos i dont know for how long its leaking...

I would yes. You have the entire joint off anyway as part of replacing the boot, so it's a good time to inspect the wear on the joint itself and if all is in good order, replace with some new grease. It's a nominal 15-20mins of additional time to clean and inspect. Besides, I highly doubt you will get the joint off without getting some contaminents in the grease anyway.

2. How to get this bold loose, ive heard this can be a pita, the use of a vibrator tool is recommended...if not available, just hammer it out with some wd40 being applied? Is it adviceable to replace it with a new bold?

Depending on the amount of salts and dirt your car has been subjected to, it can make removal of this bolt difficult. Silicone spray (liquid wrench or WD40 worse case) certainly assist making the removal easier. Using a metal drift to drive it out can assist also. If the bolt isn't damaged from removal, there is no reason you cannot reuse it.

3. Is it possible to get it back together without a torque wrench? or not recommended?

This isn't an engine with tolerances and as such I have never concerned myself with the use of a torque wrench on the suspension parts. I do however use one on the axle bolt. IF you don't have access to a torque wrench at this specific moment, don't sweat it. Tighten the axle bolt as tight as you can and then recheck when you have access to the wrench.

4. the collar bolt for drive axle can be a pita to get loose to. anti-clockwise

Remove your center cap and remove this bolt with the wheel still on the car and on the ground. It is torqued on, but once you crack it loose, it should just spin out by hand.

5. probably other things to check while it is loose?

Check the condition of your control arms, tie-rod, and struts. Good time to check thickness of rotors and inspect pads also. Not much else to check otherwise.

6. OEM boot recommended or not that important?

OEM or aftermarket equivalent is just fine for this work. Nominally $25.00 worth of parts.

[TozoM8]

It is easier if you remove the sway bar link and the lower rear control arm from the spindle.