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Mudguts
June 12th, 2012, 16:56
Gents,

My pads are getting low and new Hawk HPS's are ready for install - thanks to FAQ for detailed instructions.

My questions is how do I ascertain if the rotor needs replacing? They don't look scored or cracking and I don't track the car. Thoughts?

Thanks for your input!
Matt

marklar182
June 12th, 2012, 17:09
Measure the rotor thickness, 32mm is the min spec.

ben916
June 12th, 2012, 19:42
Measure the rotor thickness, 32mm is the min spec.

Yep, This ^^^

Mudguts
June 12th, 2012, 20:31
Thanks Marklar182 & Ben916... I am off to the store to buy a micrometer.

As far as replacement rotors, the best source that I have located (based on researching this forum) is Audionlineparts.com - Part# 4B3615301E for $278.25 & Part # 4B3615302A for $277.50

Does anyone have a better option??

-Matt

marklar182
June 12th, 2012, 20:39
As far as replacement rotors, the best source that I have located (based on researching this forum) is Audionlineparts.com - Part# 4B3615301E for $278.25 & Part # 4B3615302A for $277.50

Does anyone have a better option??

-Matt

Check genuineaudiparts as well, but AOP's is where I got mine from!

ben916
June 12th, 2012, 21:08
Either one should do the trip but then I made the mistake of not having mine drop shipped/direct shipped to Frozen rotors so I paid for multiple shipping costs...

The pricing should be the same between right/let.
The only difference in AOP and Genuine is the tax.
IIRC, AOP is in Oregon so there isn't any sales tax but the cost is about $2-$5 higher
Genuine is a lower price but you pay taxes

Jimmy
June 12th, 2012, 21:11
No need to buy a micrometer to measure them, run your finger over the edge from where the pads sit...if you feel a noticeable lip then chances are it's time for a new rotor.

Mudguts
June 12th, 2012, 21:29
Either one should do the trip but then I made the mistake of not having mine drop shipped/direct shipped to Frozen rotors so I paid for multiple shipping costs...

The pricing should be the same between right/let.
The only difference in AOP and Genuine is the tax.
IIRC, AOP is in Oregon so there isn't any sales tax but the cost is about $2-$5 higher
Genuine is a lower price but you pay taxes


AOP was cheaper and no tax - bounce!

Thanks,
MG

marklar182
June 12th, 2012, 22:17
The pricing should be the same between right/let.


Don't know why, but all 4 are different prices now! Typical Audi!



AOP was cheaper and no tax - bounce!

Thanks,
MG

That was my experience as well. AOP is cheaper shipping on the rotors.

lswing
June 13th, 2012, 00:20
No need to buy a micrometer to measure them, run your finger over the edge from where the pads sit...if you feel a noticeable lip then chances are it's time for a new rotor.

Why not just get them resurfaced at that point? I had a small lip on mine, resurfaced, and been fine...

Mudguts
June 13th, 2012, 02:39
Why not just get them resurfaced at that point? I had a small lip on mine, resurfaced, and been fine...

Any issue with doing this? I read that new is 34mm & time to replace is 32mm - doesn't seem like a lot of life...

Tnx,
MG

alrightroad
June 13th, 2012, 13:53
Why not just get them resurfaced at that point? I had a small lip on mine, resurfaced, and been fine...

I cant get anyone locally to resurface/turn a drilled rotor. I've been told over and over it cant be done. Whats the verdict on this?

hahnmgh63
June 13th, 2012, 13:59
Ben you aren't in Cali anymore. Now that your in Washington you won't pay tax when you buy from Genuine.

Jimmy
June 13th, 2012, 16:29
Why not just get them resurfaced at that point? I had a small lip on mine, resurfaced, and been fine...

One can certainly do that, usually once only though...but the rotor is a heat sink, the less material that is there is, the faster the brakes and fluid heats up.

Prolly is of no real consequence on the street but if you track the car....

4everRS
June 13th, 2012, 17:26
I've had them turned before too. There is so little disc thickness before you get to minimum, that it almost doesn't make sense. But for me it did.

These just happened to show up at my door today.

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/crocodile64/50019e02.jpg

Bring them in the get "frozen" next week.

4.2Crew
June 13th, 2012, 17:32
Very nice, Kyle!.... I don't care where ya from----Dat dar looks like jewelry! Perfect timing too---the Phaeton backing plates should arrive anytime now!

4everRS
June 13th, 2012, 19:12
Very nice, Kyle!.... I don't care where ya from----Dat dar looks like jewelry! Perfect timing too---the Phaeton backing plates should arrive anytime now!

It's like being 7 years old and knowing your leaving for Disney world in the morning! :)

ben916
June 13th, 2012, 19:55
Ben you aren't in Cali anymore. Now that your in Washington you won't pay tax when you buy from Genuine.

Thank goodness!

What really sucked was that Genuine (a.k.a Miramar Audi -> renamed to San Diego Audi) doesn't have a will call, so you get stuck with CA sales tax AND shipping.

stubro
June 14th, 2012, 00:44
OK so i posted this in the other thread on the brake pads before I saw this one so a little help. My beast is in the shop after my track day last week at Sebring and the brakes are getting done. Here is the damage and I need some advice. I know I have to do rotors, pads, and fluids do I need to do the braided lines? These prices seem high. Should I just order my own stuff?

Front Rotors(+labor) $1004 Pads Hawk HPS - $298 = $1302+tax -( are the these the rotors from AOP # 4B3615301E & # 4B3615302A. If so they is a lot cheaper)
Rear Rotors(+labor) $1058 Pads Hawk HPS 115 = 1173 + tax
Steel Braided Lines - $295 parts - $239 labo r= $534 + tax (worth it?)
Fluid (flush ABS extra time?) - Endless brake fluid : $382+ tax
Total of $3391 + tax

marklar182
June 14th, 2012, 01:42
Holy Shit! Thats pricey!

All 4 rotors from AOP is $1168 shipped

F&R Hawks on eBay for $290.12
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hawk-HPS-Brake-Pads-Front-And-Rear-AUDI-RS6-/150802212491?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%2 52BFICS%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D140666442076%26ps%3D54

I would do Motul fluid, maybe $30 max

Labor is a bitch! DIY!

ben916
June 14th, 2012, 03:43
The only challenging part that I paid for was the flush of the brake fluid @ $250 @ Raven....The old stuff was GREEN

stubro
June 14th, 2012, 14:47
Thanks for the info. I bought the pads on the ebay site, great deal. I am calling the dealer today to see if they can deal on the rotors or I will order the one on AOP or Genuine. Yea the fluid cost floored me. Thanks again.

Mudguts
June 14th, 2012, 16:42
Pads:

I found raceshopper.com from researching some other threads and got Hawk HPS front for $219 & rears for $64

JSRS6
June 15th, 2012, 15:27
And now i see that you posted in this thread as well. Good luck stubro.

repda503
October 18th, 2012, 21:43
I'm replacing my front rotors and cannot get the two 10mm Allen bolts off of the caliper to remove it. Is this a reverse thread bolt? Tried PB blaster on them and still can't get it loose. Any suggestions?

905084
October 18th, 2012, 22:07
Need more leverage.....turn the wheel to expose the caliper and get a tube to put over driver.

kday
October 18th, 2012, 22:20
Make sure you have a sharp cornered hex driver that is fully seated in the cap screw socket before you start really twisting.

JSRS6
October 18th, 2012, 22:21
^^This. I used a 17mm allen wrench with a pipe on one side and my friend on the other side used a breaker bar with a 17mm socket and a pipe. I recommend the former, unless you arent that fond of your allen sockets :hihi:

repda503
October 19th, 2012, 08:31
Thanks guys. Finally got the bolts off after practically breaking my hand. :mech: I used an allen wrench with the pipe for more leverage.