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kday
June 8th, 2012, 02:59
I've had new lower front control arms sitting in boxes for almost two months now. I finally started taking the front suspension apart tonight and realized that I don't have any tool to remove the ball joints with.

I can't seem to find a supplier for the Audi T40010 and aside from that I'd like to find a generic tool locally. Any suggestions?

Aronis
June 8th, 2012, 03:43
12685

You mean this tool??


Mike



I've had new lower front control arms sitting in boxes for almost two months now. I finally started taking the front suspension apart tonight and realized that I don't have any tool to remove the ball joints with.

I can't seem to find a supplier for the Audi T40010 and aside from that I'd like to find a generic tool locally. Any suggestions?

kday
June 8th, 2012, 03:43
I am really getting the itch to drive my rs6 again -- it's been parked in my garage since April waiting for the control arms. It seems like every week since then I am at a stoplight next to a new v8 turbo of some sort -- mostly new BMWs. Why doesn't that happen when I'm in the rs6? Though I am not sure how it would fare against the Panamera turbo S...

kday
June 8th, 2012, 03:46
12685

You mean this tool??


Mike

That looks similar to what is pictured in the bently... Think I can find one at an Autozone type place?

Aronis
June 8th, 2012, 03:55
I actually rented one from Autozone, similar idea, not quite the same quality part and not the correct size. You can find a kit at some of those places.

I ended up buying this to do the second side after fighting with the wrong tool.

I was trying to find my receipts from my purchase to tell you where I found it.

Bigglezworth
June 8th, 2012, 04:24
What do you need the special tool for if you are changing the part out? You can beat the crap out of the old one coming out because you are replacing it with a new one. Just replaced all four control arms on both sides on the blue beast. Straight forward with no hitches.

kday
June 8th, 2012, 04:31
Can you describe your procedure?

I only have the straight arm for each side... Was planning on trying one at a time. Need to remove and reinstall the ball joint on the curved ("guide") arm to replace the track arm.

SFJ_RS6
June 8th, 2012, 04:31
I found a decent quality KD tool at NAPA to pop out that joint. It's KD 3916, and as I recall it was about $45. Not cheap, but a lot less than the special Audi tool price that Snap-On charges!

Edit - the 3916 works on the curved "guide" arm. I could not get it to work on the straight "track" arm.

JSRS6
June 8th, 2012, 05:56
The problem that I had with simply "beating" on said control arms was that the bushing that is supposed to stay in the upright was instead stuck to the ball joint. This isn't too much of a problem when it's time to remove the rear arm, but it tends to put a damper on things when removing the main arm. Had to use a small fork to remove those arms, which also tore up the old ball joints, not that it mattered at that point.

kday
June 8th, 2012, 18:09
I found a decent quality KD tool at NAPA to pop out that joint. It's KD 3916, and as I recall it was about $45. Not cheap, but a lot less than the special Audi tool price that Snap-On charges!

Edit - the 3916 works on the curved "guide" arm. I could not get it to work on the straight "track" arm.

Cool -- that looks similar to this part which I can have overnighted: http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010/

What was the problem with the track arm? Does it not open wide enough?

SFJ_RS6
June 10th, 2012, 23:41
From the Amazon picture, they look like the same tool, and the price is about what I paid.

IIRC, the problem it had on the track arm was that it wouldn't fit deeply enough into the cut out throat to stay in place. It may have also been that it wouldn't open wide enough.

If you find a way to use this tool on the track arm, or if you find a different generic tool for the track arm, please post it.

SFJ_RS6
June 11th, 2012, 01:59
I just checked Bentley, and it shows a different Audi "special tool" for those 2 control arm joints.

The tool for the curved guide arm is 3287A, and looks the same as my KD 3916, and your Amazon OTC 6297. I see Snap-on charge $115 for the 3287A.

The tool Bentley shows for the straight track arm is a T40010, which looks different. Just looked, and Snap-on wants $100 for the T40010, which seems a bit exce$$ive to me.

kday
June 11th, 2012, 05:05
I was able to get the tool to work with the track arm, but not without modifying it. Since it doesn't open up far enough to keep the jaws parallel, it kept slipping off the stud as I tightened it. What I did was drill a hole in the straight jaw and put an allen key through it and into the allen socket on the ball joint stud. This kept the jaw in place. Still kind of a PITA but it worked.

Other notes on the procedure:
- It is possible to replace the track arm without undoing the guide arm ball joint. It seems like the strut bolt will be trapped, but after all other attachment points are undone there is just barely enough room to wiggle the bolt out.
- The big inboard bolt on the track arm is likewise a puzzle but can be removed without touching the subframe. (This doesn't appear to be the case for the guide arm though.)
- Even with only one corner of the car jacked up the anti-roll bar is not under tension and can be removed and reinstalled simply.

I'll find out tomorrow if replacing one front control arm (out of the 8) makes any difference to my braking vibration problem.

kday
June 11th, 2012, 16:50
Well, the new right front track arm did not cure my braking vibration, but it seems to have reduced the ranges where it occurs. I guess I'll assume I'm on the right track and keep replacing front suspension pieces...

grizz
June 11th, 2012, 18:24
DO NOT Hit the alloy upright to loosen the ball joint , This will damage the housing .......

kday
June 12th, 2012, 18:32
This is the modification I made to the OTC 6297 to remove the ball joint on the straight arm:

http://static.ultrameta.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/DSCF0043-1024x679.jpg

The hole is big enough to insert an allen key into the ball joint stud's socket:

http://static.ultrameta.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/DSCF0044-1024x679.jpg

And this keeps the jaw from slipping off the stud.


One down, 3 to go (or maybe 7 to go...)

http://static.ultrameta.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2012/06/DSCF0037-1024x679.jpg

SFJ_RS6
June 13th, 2012, 04:01
Thanks for sharing this kday. That is a clever mod you made to the tool to do the job! One tool for 2 joints - that's not the Audi way.:)