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905084
April 23rd, 2012, 20:56
12550

Housing 1 of the valve body. Location 50.128 shows 2 different springs that may be used depending on the valve body number. Mine is a -357 valve body. Instructions only show a -346, -350, -353, and a -347.

Any one have any idea what spring this thing uses? ARRGGHH...

4everRS
April 24th, 2012, 03:08
http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/crocodile64/7f37081f.jpg

Wish I could help.

905084
April 24th, 2012, 03:16
LMAO...going for the 50.128B. Valve body assy 1 back together, putting it on the VB tomorrow, drain, remove, attach, fill tomorrow. Last hope before the tranny pull. At the very least I'm hoping for 5 smiling miles.

905084
April 25th, 2012, 01:01
Didn't get 5 smiling miles...17146 shift solenoid 3 short to +. Arghh...although the wife said "even stuck in 4th, this is better than most cars"

TozoM8
April 25th, 2012, 01:05
That's a wiring problem not a valve body valve.

905084
April 25th, 2012, 01:12
Throws the code just by turning on the key, so I guess so. Going to pin out 12 to 4 on the trans connector next and see what I get. I don't understand "short to +" on the code though. Maybe didn't help that I dropped the VB when I took it out and that solenoid is on the end (sometimes I hate to embarrass myself).

TozoM8
April 25th, 2012, 02:10
17146 could be mechanical damage. Shift solenoid stuck on.
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tech/audi/audi.dtc.table.htm

905084
April 25th, 2012, 02:18
Thanks Tozo. I figure somehow it's from damage I inflicted. I'll pin it out and if it is not showing 30-34 ohms the pan comes off..again. I'm hoping for something outside the tranny. The code shows up as soon as I turn the key, and I'm not sure the trans has sensors to know the position of the MV solenoids before the fluid flows.

905084
April 29th, 2012, 23:03
Any one know if the pin outs to the trans correlate to the pin outs in the TCU? In other words is pin 12 on the trans valve body the same as pin 12 in the TCU? Pinned out 12-4 on the installed VB and the uninstalled, 26.4 ohms each on MV3

kday
April 30th, 2012, 01:20
It's never that simple...

There are wiring diagrams in the Bentley repair manual. Here's the relevant page.

(I was going to just upload this to the site but the attachment manager doesn't like PNG files...?)

http://www.boost-instruments.com/tvalves.png

TozoM8
April 30th, 2012, 01:22
The Bentley wiring is wrong. It has two common 12 and 16 and they are not connected as it shown.

kday
April 30th, 2012, 01:23
I couldn't remember if we have an 01V or 01L so I googled "01v 01l" and found this, which might be useful: http://avtopedia.ru/akpp/audi_o1v_o1vl.pdf
Note the solenoid activation charts a few pages in.

905084
April 30th, 2012, 01:46
Thanks kday and Tozo. I ohmed out the 12-4 pin and the solenoid seems good so I wanted to go back to the TCU to check the wiring to make sure it is not shorted but I''m still not sure what pin to pick on the TCU. Pin 12 should be a purple line to the TCU for common power and pin 4 should be white for the ground. Doesn't help I cant see anything without glasses.

905084
April 30th, 2012, 22:31
N90 solenoid failure related to heat. Worked great till it got warm. N90 failure least of my problems, still slipping the A clutch. I did enjoy it for the first 2 miles anyway :)

Is the pressure in this trans controlled electronically? Only pins I can see are 13/14 TOT output.

905084
May 2nd, 2012, 23:00
Today dropped the pan and found N90 busted up as I suspected. Actually wiring harness where I had dropped it. Lesson of the day, don't drop your valve body.
12576
In an effort to stop the slipping, I did the Sonnax kit that bores out the main pressure regulating valve in the valve body. No help with the slipping. Found that EDS1 (N??) is the 5-6ohm solenoid that reduces line pressure in the trans. Trip to Radio Shack today to buy 2-10 ohm resistors. Put them in parallel to get 5 ohms and fool the 'puter into thinking that it was there (otherwise failsafe mode). Refilled and ran. Harder shifts from P-N-D for sure but not unobjectionable. Ran my usual 5 mile route and NOT A SINGLE SLIP! Oh baby!!!!!! I love this car!!!!

Ok, down side is a hard downshift from 5-4. And before bashing, I realistically don't expect this "fix" to last more than 1500-2000 miles but the miles I drive with this that'll be a year. Now watch, it won't get me to the store tomorrow.

Lots of time into this, but what else would I do? Thanks for every ones help, this forum is awesome.

kismetcapitan
May 2nd, 2012, 23:44
...I am convinced that Audi stands for "engineering with far more complexity than is required" lol :) Reminds me of when I had the rare opportunity to work on a Porsche 959. Each car comes with a massive service manual. The AWD system was malfunctioning. Porsche used four hydraulic solenoids in a fairly complex circuit to control front/rear torque split. Nissan ripped off the concept for their 1989 Skyline GT-R, and by sacrificing the ability to send more than 50% to the front, simplified the hydraulic control solenoid to just one. It's probably the most reliable system on the entire car.

anyways, I'm way off topic, but seeing posts like these that are written in some kind of foreign language, cause it sure don't sound like English!...this just all reminds me of the constant problems I had with my ur-Quattro. I suppose at some point I will have to study in detail the RS6 systems...if I'm not too old to learn something that complex :P

TozoM8
May 3rd, 2012, 02:41
Increasing line pressure will put a lot of stress on clutch A. It should not slip with stock pressure.

4everRS
May 3rd, 2012, 02:47
905084, you're crazy. Good crazy. So, the resistors actually did more than the bore kit?

Kismet, you have more reminding going on than the Alzheimer's section of a nursing home.

905084
May 3rd, 2012, 02:48
I understand Tozo, but it is already broke. It's a $3 temporary band aid that allows me to enjoy it while I rebuild the other trans. I wish I knew how to program the TCU to modulate EDS 1 the way I want. Hopefully I can get it rebuilt and installed by the end of the summer.

The Sonnax is for our worn bores on the main pressure regulating valve but doesn't increase the pressure. EDS 1 modulates the pressure, but why for the love of god with all this technology there are are no pressure transducers in the trans I don't know.

The resistors bypass EDS 1 to apply full pressure to the trans all the time. I know this isn't good, but it beats the hell out of not driving it or spending 5k.....for now. I figure worst case I'm out the core of the tranny ($600).

905084
May 3rd, 2012, 21:31
Drove it today and it worked, as Hamster from Top Gear would say "Like a car!" No slipping at all. Now to get the other trans rebuilt before this one checks out.

JSRS6
May 4th, 2012, 11:45
Wondering if this is spam...or if this guys first post is to congratulate you on your awesomeness...


you are best!

905084
May 4th, 2012, 21:21
Probably my wife......not so much.

JSRS6
May 5th, 2012, 00:58
Your wife is russian?

905084
May 5th, 2012, 01:01
Russian to make me happy.......again, not so much.