Completed: DIY DRC removal/swap with Koni Yellow Sports....

[4.2Crew]

Decided to scrap the DRC system and swap to Koni Yellow Sports. After researching the pros and cons of coilovers, Bilstiens, Koni's, KW's etc, I decided to simply remove the DRC strut assemblys and replace with the Koni's---saving/reusing the most of the other related hardware. I did freshen the front strut mounts with new oem's.

Seems like the most common route is to install coilovers... Can't go wrong there! But I wanted to retain the same ride height, spring rate and ride as stock and save some cake. Coilovers certainly would have worked, but once the suspension was dialed in, I would never touch it again. The only risk I could see swaping in the Koni's was a different (higher) ride hieght... After the swap, the hieght on all four corners is within 1/16" of the stock DRC system!

So, for about $700 for the Koni's and $80 for new front mounts, a totally fresh, new, quiet, compliant ride was achieved with a much simplier and robust sytem.... Total garage time: 8hrs. Total savings over a comparable 2Bennet system: $1300.

The ride is slightly less rigid and a bit smoother than the DRC suspension, but still firmer and sporty'er than my 2001 A6 4.2L with factory sport suspension...

It's amazing how many fittings and splicies are in the system!... No wonder they leak fluid and pressure... Mine was not under ANY pressure when drained.

Sorry for the blur'd pics....

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http://www.rs6.com/images/misc/pencil.png

[NSU RS6]

Cool. I have put Koni's on all my cars since 1985 and they have always been great. Question - did you take a ride height measurement before and after? This could be a direction I would go when my DRC dies knockknock. Coil overs are the snizz, and yes, they can allow you to put that ride height where it looks the best (but what most often is put where it is not best for the car....), they also allow corner weighting, simple spring rate changes, etc., etc., but every coil over suspension I have had was "set it and forget it". If this kit is close to that setting, then it is a very viable option.

[MaxRS6]

Congrats on ridding yourself of the oil demon!

[4.2Crew]

Cool. I have put Koni's on all my cars since 1985 and they have always been great. Question - did you take a ride height measurement before and after? This could be a direction I would go when my DRC dies knockknock. Coil overs are the snizz, and yes, they can allow you to put that ride height where it looks the best (but what most often is put where it is not best for the car....), they also allow corner weighting, simple spring rate changes, etc., etc., but every coil over suspension I have had was "set it and forget it". If this kit is close to that setting, then it is a very viable option.

Yes, I took measurements from the axle center to the top lip of the wheel wells on all 4 corners 10 minutes prior to tearing into it...

The Koni's product numbers are:

Front: 82-2516sport
Rear: 82-2526sport

The fronts have about 2.5 full turns of rebound dampening adjustability and the rears have about 1.25 turns... I set the fronts at 1 turn from softest, and rears at 0.5 turns from softest.

Also, the Koni fronts have only one lower perch groove... Easy enough to cut a groove if ride hieght needs adjustment. The Koni rears have 3 grooves (approx 3/8" apart)... I chose the middle groove which yielded an oem rear ride hieght.

[4.2Crew]

Congrats on ridding yourself of the oil demon!
Tell me about it!... My garage floor is spackled with hydraulic oil dripping's and odor after completing this project... Ugh, the garbage probable smells as well----since that is were all the DRC components landed! Off to the home center tomorrow for floor cleaner/degreaser.

[ben916]

Nice work!

That lift is AWESOME!!!

[SFJ_RS6]

Very nice work and second that on the awesome lift!! Will you say more about the lift - brand, $$, where you bought it, and how you like it?? I've been wanting a lift for a long time, but unfortunately don't have the overhead for the typical 2- or 4-post type in my residential garage. Yours looks like it could work at my place.

[mik15]

so you have replaced only the shock-absorbers and kept the original springs? could you please post some pictures of the car after the replacement? Congrats on going this way instead of coil overs, i think i will do this as well when the time comes, first of all because it's cheaper and then i don't use the car to its full potential so i am sure i would never change the settings and take full advantage of a KW3 for example...where did you buy the Koni from?

[4.2Crew]

Will you say more about the lift - brand, $$, where you bought it, and how you like it?? I've been wanting a lift for a long time, but unfortunately don't have the overhead for the typical 2- or 4-post type in my residential garage. Yours looks like it could work at my place.

This type of lift is refered to a mid-rise scissor lift... It has a lift height of approx 48", load capacity of 6000lbs, and a collapsed (nested) height of about 5" (so you can drive and park most vehicles over it when not in use.) After looking at different models and price points, I kept an eye out for a deal on the Snap-On model (made by Ammco.) The previous owner purchased it from Snap-On then had it painted blue to match the decor of his garage!... He sold it for around $1000 if I recall---retail was around $2700 at the time.

Mid-rise lifts could be purchased from Harbor Freight for around $1000 (in 2005 anyway), but I did not warm up to the flimsyness or build quality.

After living with the lift "on" the floor for a month, I decided to "flush-mount" it by cutting out the concrete floor and repouring a reinforced submerged foundation. When not in use, it's covered with aluminum diamond plate---great for use as an adjustable height bench and motorcycle lift!

Not sure if Snap-On or Ammco make this specific lift, but I do see'em come up on Ebay occasionly---they hit the scales around 1000lbs so shipping will likely not be free!

[4.2Crew]

so you have replaced only the shock-absorbers and kept the original springs? could you please post some pictures of the car after the replacement? Congrats on going this way instead of coil overs, i think i will do this as well when the time comes, first of all because it's cheaper and then i don't use the car to its full potential so i am sure i would never change the settings and take full advantage of a KW3 for example...where did you buy the Koni from?

Yes, the factory springs were retained...

I'll post pics later today of the car.

As for as cost and simplicity, I echo your sentiments exactly!..... Just couldn't see the value in coilovers for my driving lifestyle---"Set it, adjust it, and forget it!" Factor in the cost savings and the fact that, if you do this yourself or pay someone, the labor time is about the same!.... One exception: The 2Bennet coilovers come ready for "bolt-in." But delivered to my door they where just under $2100...

To my surprise, I couldn't find anyone else in the forum archives that went this route----Or, at least posted about it!....

Adjustable ride-height coilovers do have an advantage over this method. But, you can cut additional grooves into the Koni strut body to achieve the same results... If using the factory spring, the critical measurement is from the center of the bottom mounting eye to the bottom spring perch----that is where the 95% of the ride height is determined....

Also, here in MN, the screw-type adjustable spring perches are exposed to extereme envirnmental conditions... Just ask a shop if they like working on adjustable coilovers once those fine threads are corroded!

[NSU RS6]

Yes, I took measurements from the axle center to the top lip of the wheel wells on all 4 corners 10 minutes prior to tearing into it...

So when done, the setting was how close to stock ride height? I would imagine if a spring compression measurement was taken before removing the springs from the DRC, and then matching that to whichever groove on the Koni yielded the same measurement, and then provided that the perch to bottom mount centerline measurement is the same (Koni probably copies it), then it should be close to stock ride height. Was that the case for the front?

Please give a 1000 mile report. It will also be interesting to see if you feel the need to upgrade the swaybars, since DRC is supposed to be an "active swaybar" there when you need it, and not affecting ride quality when you don't.

Lastly, again, that lift is killer!

Thanks for the report!

[4everRS]

Great job Crew. I would love to feel the difference in handling when I'm down in you neck of the woods.

[4.2Crew]

So when done, the setting was how close to stock ride height? I would imagine if a spring compression measurement was taken before removing the springs from the DRC, and then matching that to whichever groove on the Koni yielded the same measurement, and then provided that the perch to bottom mount centerline measurement is the same (Koni probably copies it), then it should be close to stock ride height. Was that the case for the front?

Please give a 1000 mile report. It will also be interesting to see if you feel the need to upgrade the swaybars, since DRC is supposed to be an "active swaybar" there when you need it, and not affecting ride quality when you don't.

Lastly, again, that lift is killer!

Thanks for the report!

To answer your questions:

Yes, the height is within 1/16" on each corner as before the swap...

Compressed spring measurements: Short answer, yes... I wasn't too concerned about the compressed measurement, but it was within 1/4" on fronts and rears...

I drove the car about 60 miles today to get the alignment trimmed back in after the swap.... Wow, what difference! Quiet, compliant, smooth, sporty and luxurious ride! I can tell the DRC did assist the sway bars... Not night and day, but there is a difference.

[4.2Crew]

Great job Crew. I would love to feel the difference in handling when I'm down in you neck of the woods.

Hey, anytime!... Garage is always open, fridge is always full!...

[4.2Crew]

Could you please post some pictures of the car after the replacement?

Here are two "after" pics:

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[SFJ_RS6]

Thanks for the info about the lift - you've got a very nice setup with it! I'm going to do a little shopping and see where it leads.....

[mik15]

it looks just as before, i could even say that it's better on the rear as it looks a bit lower than with the DRC, one again great job, keep us posted with your feedback over time/miles....

[lswing]

Nice work! I'm doing this same swap next week. Was thinking of using the lowest perch for the rears, by your pics it looked to be riding a bit higher than the front. What's your impression of your cars stance? Just hoping I don't sag in the back. Really looking forward to the new ride as my drc is harsh as hell frozen over...going to start with soft all around and go from there.

[4.2Crew]

Nice work! I'm doing this same swap next week. Was thinking of using the lowest perch for the rears, by your pics it looked to be riding a bit higher than the front. What's your impression of your cars stance? Just hoping I don't sag in the back. Really looking forward to the new ride as my drc is harsh as hell frozen over...going to start with soft all around and go from there.

Thanks! If I knew then, what I know now, I would've started at full soft on the rebound settings AND placed the rears on the lowest perch hieght... The rear does sit just a smit higher ("1/4") than the front, but it also had an empty gas tank at the time of measurement and pics... It does, however, sit slightly more level than it did with the DRC.

Since the car will be an all-season (-30 to 100F) daily driver with a 60 mile round trip commute, slightly softer would've neen ok... But, maybe with warmer temps and a few thousand miles, it'll set'll in... I could reset the front rebound with no alignment consecences in about an hour... The rears are a different story and would require an alignment upon completion.

[NSU RS6]

All of the Koni's I have driven softened slightly over time. At about 10K miles it stayed the same. I usually set the rebound in the middle, and never had to adjust them again.

[4.2Crew]

Just a quick update on the Koni Yellow Sports with stock spring install:

Last weekend I decided to "tune" the new Koni's... Not that anything was wrong with the ride or compliance, but just wanted to ever so slightly soften the ride...

The initial settings after install were:

Fronts: 1 turn from full soft rebound and stock Koni perch height.
Rears: 1/2 turn from full soft rebound and middle Koni perch height. (There are 3 lower perch heights)

The new settings are:

Fronts: 1/2 turn from full soft rebound and stock Koni perch height.
Rears: 1/4 turn from full soft rebound and low Koni perch height. (There are 3 lower perch heights)

Ride compliance is now perfect for my driving lifestyle!... The rear ride height dropped about 1/4" yeilding a "level chasis." The car now sits perfectly level!... No rake. Most of the rake was removed after swapping the DRC out, but it was still slightly high in the rear... Softening the rebound a bit and moving to the lower perch on the rears was worth the 4 hours!

[4everRS]

Aww man Crew. Posting this without a pic? Your in violation of a number of Ben916's posting policies!

[lswing]

Good to hear, thanks for the updates, pics or it didn't happen:)

Your description of the rear perches is a bit confusing, how about stock height for the lowest, then each one up a 1/4" more raised.

Glad to hear it's nice and level, I cannot wait to have mine out of it's jacked up DRC mode. I'm planning full soft all around as I think that should hold the car firm. What's your reasoning for a bit stiffer in the front, engine weight, nose diving I guess? How compliant are the small bumps now? I know it's tough to describe, but all the 1" ruts and holes around town kill my back, so I've been thinking full soft just to be safe...

[4.2Crew]

Pics as promised... Err, maybe due to heavy peer pressure!

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To answer some previous questions:

Your description of the rear perches is a bit confusing, how about stock height for the lowest, then each one up a 1/4" more raised.... Sorry, it is not only confusing, but hard to articulately describe... I could be wrong, but I think a stock RS6 with the DRC properly set-up, has a slight chasis rake... I prefer the car to sit level with a full belly of fuel---and the lowest rear perch height on the Koni's yeilds that on my car.

What's your reasoning for a bit stiffer in the front, engine weight, nose diving I guess?
The Koni's range of adjustability is different on the front than the rears.... 2 1/4 turns of adjustability on the fronts and only 1 1/8 turns on the rears. Also, to make it even more confusing, I do not think there is a linear dependence (ie. a half turn from full soft rebound might still be quite firm, but a half turn from full firm will likely feel no different than full firm)

How compliant are the small bumps now? I know it's tough to describe, but all the 1" ruts and holes around town kill my back, so I've been thinking full soft just to be safe...
Noticably better after last weeks "tuning." I don't think you will go wrong at full soft front and rear.

Please ignore attached lower image... Irrelevant to this posting.

[lswing]

The car looks perfect, really nice pics! Bad enough without my car for a few weeks, but knowing the suspension will be sorted out will be great! Thanks for the reply to the questions, I agree with your points, very good!

[lswing]

This article has some nice details, and great pics of the stock stance, albeit I believe the 5 spoke Euro's were 19's..."Lord of the rings"...I like it!

http://www.netcarshow.com/audi/2002-rs6_sedan/

[4.2Crew]

This article has some nice details, and great pics of the stock stance, albeit I believe the 5 spoke Euro's were 19's..."Lord of the rings"...I like it!

http://www.netcarshow.com/audi/2002-rs6_sedan/

Wow! That does exemplify a nice stance!....

[kismetcapitan]

those pics have always made me frustrated in how post-DRC recall cars sit so high, when the new and stock RS6 sat just right.

Where did you source the Konis? What was the part number/were the struts RS6-specific, or for the A6/S6/RS6 range? I'd like to do struts only, as I have a set of H&R springs sitting in my closet - I want to go low, mean, and stiffer than stock!

[lswing]

Kismet, the part numbers are listed early in this thread I think. I wouldn't want the car any lower IMO, and I'm thinking the stock springs should be high quality so I'm looking to leave them on...then again I've got the old man back and need the ride a touch smoother.

Ordered from Race Inspired for $746 total...

[NSU RS6]

Kismet, the part numbers are listed early in this thread I think. I wouldn't want the car any lower IMO, and I'm thinking the stock springs should be high quality so I'm looking to leave them on...then again I've got the old man back and need the ride a touch smoother.
Ordered from Race Inspired for $746 total...

I have always set my Koni's to 60%, and never been unhappy (or maybe the unwiser....naaaah) for it.

Koni's have always been good to me.

This is a great option.

Go DRC go!

[4.2Crew]

Kismet, the part numbers are listed early in this thread I think. I wouldn't want the car any lower IMO, and I'm thinking the stock springs should be high quality so I'm looking to leave them on...then again I've got the old man back and need the ride a touch smoother.

Ordered from Race Inspired for $746 total...

Thanks for the follow-up!...

Sourced from TireRack

And, agree with no lower for me as well!

[kismetcapitan]

true, looking at it closely, it really can't go much lower. But try 10mm spacers...after I installed mine, I lost all desire to buy new rims. The stock 18" wheels look great with that extra centimeter of offset.

conventional suspension tuning wisdom is to go harder in the rear than the front, to combat understeer. But since ride compliance is your goal, go with what feels best. I'll most likely crank everything to the stiffest possible...

Does anyone know if the H&R lowering springs are just lower, or are significantly stiffer than the stock springs?

[mik15]

now it looks perfect :), well done 4.2Crew, it's certainly the way i am going to do it when the time comes to swap the DRC. As for the pictures with the RS6, most certainly originating from Audi, i doubt it that these cars ever sat like the one in the pictures, have a look at the RS6 on TopGear 2002 (http://www.streetfire.net/video/top-gear-season-1-episode-8-full-episode_part-1_501679.htm) at 03:50 and you will see that it sits a bit higher on the rear...unlike the one in the pictures! Those pictures must've been PS'ed or somehow altered but i am almost sure the car never had that stance, maybe the owners who bought it new could make some light ....

[Jimmy Joe]

4.2 crew, I think you are breaking new ground here. I wonder how many of us would prefer your sistem and save quite a bit of cash for almost no change in ride/handling? ¿And what about supplementing the shocks with Hotchkiss Sway bars?, By the way, congrats. on a very nice-looking ride, very nice looking garage, yuo must have many other good looking things, seems a treat of your personality. Congratulations again.

[kismetcapitan]

I've got Hotchkis bars installed. A solution to the DRC is all that's left to sort the suspension. Then all I have left on the durability wish list is an upgraded torque converter.

Still beats the pants off of rebuilding the V8 M5 engine every 100K miles or so, nevermind the ARC suspension nightmare that Mercedes used in the same time period...

[4.2Crew]

4.2 crew, I think you are breaking new ground here. I wonder how many of us would prefer your sistem and save quite a bit of cash for almost no change in ride/handling? ¿And what about supplementing the shocks with Hotchkiss Sway bars?, By the way, congrats. on a very nice-looking ride, very nice looking garage, yuo must have many other good looking things, seems a treat of your personality. Congratulations again.

Thanks for the kind words!.... My wife would certainly like the quote: "...you must have many other good looking things, seems a treat of your personality."

Could not be happier with the set-up... H-bars? Probably. But not a "must-have now" as the car slaloms very well for my driving style.

[kismetcapitan]

so the spring perches have a couple levels of adjustment? Anyone try these at full sport setting - would they then be stiffer than the DRC?

[4.2Crew]

so the spring perches have a couple levels of adjustment? Anyone try these at full sport setting - would they then be stiffer than the DRC?
The Koni rears have 3 different perch heights and the fronts have only one height.... However, you could machine additional grooves on both the fronts or rears.

I think if the rebound settings were adjusted at full firm, it would be firmer than the DRC set-up.

[kismetcapitan]

thanks for your patience with my questions, I think I'll be taking this route eventually!

[4.2Crew]

thanks for your patience with my questions, I think I'll be taking this route eventually!
No problem!... Ask away! I have benifited from the member's of this forum far more than I could possibly contribute! ....Like a drug addiction: Gotta check-in to get a daily fix and learn something new about our iconic vehicle and to share with other owner's the sick love/hate relationship we have with it!

[kismetcapitan]

I ordered a set of Konis from Tire Rack...$550!

I like the adjustable perches. I should be able to dial in a good ride height for my H&R lowering springs. I hope these, when set at stiffer settings, it can be firmer than the stock DRC.

[mik15]

as expected, my DRC has failed again, less than 10 months since it was replaced, it can be done again on warranty but i've rather move on from the oil demon...so, how is the Koni set up so far? still happy with it? any issues you've noticed or anything that really bothers you? This is would be the way for me too if your opinion is positive!

[4.2Crew]

...so, how is the Koni set up so far? still happy with it? any issues you've noticed or anything that really bothers you? This is would be the way for me too if your opinion is positive!

I like the set-up for several reasons... Adjustability, robust, maint free, ride quality, cost etc. Don't know your situation or driving style/habits. But I would do it again in a heart-beat...

[mik15]

so you have no regrets for not choosing PSS9 or KW? the car is a daily drive for me and i do not intend to track it, maybe i'll do it a couple of times just to see how it is, but other than that nothing more, and yes, i want it comfortable for my daily use! So, looks like this is the way for me too...how many miles now have you done since you've got this set up?

[4.2Crew]

No regrets. I've never tried the PSS9's or KW's so cannot compare or comment. Have about 6k miles on the set-up.

[lswing]

4.2, I've got about 1,500 miles on mine so far, doing pretty good. I've been feeling a bit more bounce now that they are softening up a bit, minor, but I'm also running on the full soft setting. Maybe next time I have the car apart I'll go one step further for a tighter return, seems like the spring is getting away from the strut just a bit. If I had extra cash I would be tempted for something with more adjustments, but this is a really solid setup for the price, thanks again for getting me to put these on!

[Mudguts]

I ordered a set of Konis from Tire Rack...$550!

I like the adjustable perches. I should be able to dial in a good ride height for my H&R lowering springs. I hope these, when set at stiffer settings, it can be firmer than the stock DRC.

All,

Great thread & write-up - I am sold on this upgrade!

Problem: I just checked tirerack and can't find the Koni option for our cars - just KW1's & 3's... Did you plug-in RS6, part # or some other Audi model (S6) to get this option?

Thanks
MG

[4.2Crew]

All,
Problem: I just checked tirerack and can't find the Koni option for our cars - just KW1's & 3's... Did you plug-in RS6, part # or some other Audi model (S6) to get this option?
Thanks
MG


Koni part #'s
Front: 82-2516sport
Rear: 82-2526sport

I listed the part #'s in the 4th post of this thread...

[Mudguts]

Koni part #'s
Front: 82-2516sport
Rear: 82-2526sport

I listed the part #'s in the 4th post of this thread...

Thanks - I got that far :)

Checked with Tirerack and they don't carry them anymore.

Searching net for best price now, so any help would be appreciated!

-MG

[4.2Crew]

Checked with Tirerack and they don't carry them anymore.


-MG

I just went to TireRack's website and found them in stock????...

Go to: TireRack.com > Suspension > Audi > 2003 > A6 4.2

Look down the results page for Koni Sport...

Fronts (82-2516sport) are in stock @ $181 ea
Rears (82-2526sport) less than 3 available @ $166 ea







Send email (http://mail.live.com/?rru=compose%3faction%3dcompose%26to%3dkylehoggart h@gmail.com&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fby162w.bay162.mail.live.com%2Fdefa ult.aspx%3Frru%3Dinbox)
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[Mudguts]

Weird - When you plug in RS6 these items don't come up. Also, I gave the sales rep the part numbers and he couldnt find them.

Anyways, I just ordered them for $710.75 shipped along with new snows.

Thanks,
M

[Greg341]

Weird - When you plug in RS6 these items don't come up. Also, I gave the sales rep the part numbers and he couldnt find them.

Anyways, I just ordered them for $710.75 shipped along with new snows.

Thanks,
M

Mudguts, did you install your Konis yet?

I installed them over the weekend with stock springs and sways (a very time-consuming job). I've not driven the car much, just a couple of trips to town but so far so good. At slower speeds the ride seems very similar to the DRC but no clunking or whatever sound that thing makes which drove me absolutely crazy. I'll be on the interstate Thursday and am excited to see how she handles at higher speeds.

Kudos to 4.2Crew for all of his information, that was a HUGE help. The older I get the more I have come to appreciate a bit smoother ride so I'm afraid coil overs would have been too stiff for me. I almost bought the Koni FSD's but decided against it. I agree with 4.2 that they may not hold up over time and I don't want to do this again if I don't have to!

[4.2Crew]

Glad to hear it all worked out for you... This is a big job! Not necessarily difficult, but time consuming. It's the perfect set-up for my daily driving style----hopefully, your's as well!

[mik15]

4.2Crew - since you took out the struts and you know how it looks, could you please tell me if for changing the front upper strut mounts i need to compress the spring?

[4.2Crew]

....could you please tell me if for changing the front upper strut mounts i need to compress the spring?

Unfortunately, yes... But, with an pneumatic impact gun and spring compressors, it only adds an additional 5 minutes per side to the process.

[Greg341]

I would agree, not terribly difficult but just a lot of steps. The most difficult part for me was pulling them out and putting the new ones in. I don't have a lift so I was operating from the ground. A good set of pry bars helped a ton. That and one of the rear Konis was stripped where the allen goes so tightening it down was a blast!

[Mudguts]

Mudguts, did you install your Konis yet?

I installed them over the weekend with stock springs and sways (a very time-consuming job). I've not driven the car much, just a couple of trips to town but so far so good. At slower speeds the ride seems very similar to the DRC but no clunking or whatever sound that thing makes which drove me absolutely crazy. I'll be on the interstate Thursday and am excited to see how she handles at higher speeds.

Kudos to 4.2Crew for all of his information, that was a HUGE help. The older I get the more I have come to appreciate a bit smoother ride so I'm afraid coil overs would have been too stiff for me. I almost bought the Koni FSD's but decided against it. I agree with 4.2 that they may not hold up over time and I don't want to do this again if I don't have to!


I picked up the Konis last week and am debating the DIY install... Anyone know where to find a detailed step-by-step of the procedure and what tools are required?

Many thanks,
MG

[4.2Crew]

I picked up the Konis last week and am debating the DIY install... Anyone know where to find a detailed step-by-step of the procedure and what tools are required?

Many thanks,
MG

Without knowing your experience level, it is difficult to help determine if it's a DIY... It is a big, messy all-day DIY job to go from DRC to Koni's/oem springs. If you've never done strut-type suspension work on Audi's/VW's, find assistance or outsource. Compressing springs can be very dangerous if not done correctly. Plus, there are procedures like removing the upright pinch-bolt that can be a real bitch even with the right tools, techniques and experience.

Tools required:
complete set of metric wrenches and sockets
torque wrench
spring compressor
hydraulic jack
jack stands (if not using a lift)
pry bar
container to catch stinky DRC juice
beer

Tools desired:
lift
pneumatics (impact gun and wrench)
paint pen to mark/index strut-spring components prior to disassembly for ease of reassembly alignment
experienced helper
Southern Comfort

You can research this site for suspension procedural write-ups, but nothing will be step-wise exact to the RS6:

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel.html

Good luck!...

[Greg341]

I picked up the Konis last week and am debating the DIY install... Anyone know where to find a detailed step-by-step of the procedure and what tools are required?

Many thanks,
MG

I used this but it's not very thorough.

http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=81926

It discusses installing PSS9s so it was enough to help me navigate through but there's a lot more steps than mentioned. I don't think 4.2 missed anything...I did find that a crescent wrench comes in handy and I didn't remove the DRC lines, just capped them and zip tied the rears up so they wouldn't flop around. I'll remove them eventually. I rented the spring compressor from O'Reillys. They let me have it free for as long as I wanted it...they've got a good crew here where I live.

If you've got a little extra cash, I'd have someone else do it. I spread it out over 3-days so I didn't loose my mind but I'm not sure if it was worth the money I saved...I suppose it was. It wasn't as bad as changing out the plastic pipe in the oil cooler!

If you decide to tackle it and get stuck, I'll do my best to help!

[780z]

Thanks all for a very informative thread, I am currently at war with Audi UK as they claim the DRC issue is not safety related.......LOL....... My car has only done 24,000 miles and had a replacement DRC system fitted just over 5 years ago immediately before I bought it under warranty which did not make any difference, It has been stored for about 5 years now and I have finally decided to get it sorted out one way or the other.
I have been looking into sensibly priced DRC replacements of late and concluded that the very same part numbers used by you guys would be the way to go coupled with the standard springs, I am encouraged by your findings as Koni's have always worked for me especially in my 944 turbo S which for me has the best suspension of any car I have ever driven.

[Mudguts]

Swapped in Koni's following 4.2Crew's recipe on Monday, so only about half a tank of gas on the new suspension.

First impressions:
- The ride height is slightly lower than stock without tucking the wheels resulting in a slightly sporter look
- No more unidentified suspension noises (USN's) from the DRC from normal driving conditions
- Corners like a champ (car has H-bars) with good turn-in and very flat
- Install cost me $425 at a local shop.

I'll provide more feedback at the end of November.

Happy Halloween,
MG

[4.2Crew]

Congrats, MG!... Isn't it amazing how much quieter and "planted" the car is now?... Especially when hitting bumps at speed and askew?

Just for the record, do you recall the rebound settings and is the rear perch setting on the high or low groove?

Con'on now... You know the deal! Pics! We need pics!

[Mudguts]

Congrats, MG!... Isn't it amazing how much quieter and "planted" the car is now?... Especially when hitting bumps at speed and askew?

Just for the record, do you recall the rebound settings and is the rear perch setting on the high or low groove?

Con'on now... You know the deal! Pics! We need pics!

Car feels good -I need to put some mileage on before offering further impressions.

Settings:
Fronts got 1/2 turn rebound & only has one setting
Rears got 1/4 turn rebound and set on the lowest perch

Picture attached (i think)...

Thanks for the help!
-MG

[Mudguts]

4.2Crew,

I just took another look at your pics and your car looks lower than mine. Did you do anything beyond the Koni's that would make the car lower? Will the suspension settle after a couple hundred clicks?

Thanks
MG

[4.2Crew]

Your right... Your stance appears slightly higher. Mine is set-up exactly as yours---same springs, same perch height, same rebound. Huh. The only thing I can possibly think could be different is spring fatigue (sag.) I'm only speculating, but I thought a properly functioning DRC removes some load off the springs. If it does, maybe my DRC was depressurized and non-functioning much longer than your DRC??? Thereby straining (fatiguing) my springs more??? I dun'no...

In my experience/opinion, the Koni's "wear-in" after a few thousand miles and the ride becomes slightly softer... No change in ride height tho!

Either way, nice job! Look'n good!

[dre]

I just went to TireRack's website and found them in stock????...

Go to: TireRack.com > Suspension > Audi > 2003 > A6 4.2

Look down the results page for Koni Sport...

Fronts (82-2516sport) are in stock @ $181 ea
Rears (82-2526sport) less than 3 available @ $166 ea


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Hi I just bought a RS6, and now my suspension is making massive clunking noise. The dealer said I need to replace the strut mounts and the struts themselves. They told me they were slowly leaking something????? My only guess is the DRC needs to be replaced. When you changed them did you replace the mounts with new ones? Also I checked tirerack too and I dont see anything under the RS6 catergory. But I see in your post you selected A6 4.2, can those parts be used on the RS6? I priced out for new mounts front/rear and struts front, rear and springs all around for 1038. Can I reuse the old springs or will I need new ones? Is this a good price? Your guys seem to have paid far less. Why is that? Any help or advice would be nice because this noise is driving me crazy!

[lswing]

dre, welcome!, location?, what did you use to edit your font, tough to read. Have the DRC replaced, reputable shop should only replace other parts as needed.

[dre]

Im from Watertown, CT. What is the DRC per say? The only experience I have with Audis was my S5 and I never had this problem with my S5. Is the DRC the suspension itself?

[lswing]

Dynamic Ride Control....sensor driven balanced fluid pressure between left and right...almost all have failed or been replaced many times with varying results. Some of have liked this cheaper, non-adjustable (once installed) method of the Koni's, there are many options though.

Replace the DRC, you'll be happy...

[Mudguts]

dre - if you want to find the Koni Sports on the Tirerack site, you will need to search by part #. I had the same experience when searching under the RS6.

Good luck,
MG

[4.2Crew]

Hi I just bought a RS6, and now my suspension is making massive clunking noise. The dealer said I need to replace the strut mounts and the struts themselves. They told me they were slowly leaking something????? (hydraulic fluid) My only guess is the DRC needs to be replaced. (Yes---or repaired = $$$$) When you changed them did you replace the mounts with new ones? (Yes) Also I checked tirerack too and I dont see anything under the RS6 catergory. But I see in your post you selected A6 4.2, can those parts be used on the RS6? (Yes) I priced out for new mounts front/rear and struts front, rear and springs all around for 1038. Can I reuse the old springs (Yes) or will I need new ones? (No) Is this a good price? (Yes, once you remove cost of new springs) Your guys seem to have paid far less. (Yes) Why is that? (Didn't replace springs) Any help or advice would be nice because this noise is driving me crazy! (1: Not a novice DIY---outsource if in doubt. 2: All you need is Koni struts and maybe strut mounts---I replaced'em cause it's easy since your replacing struts. 3: Prudent to get 4-wheel alignment after the swap.)

Welcome!...
You have 9 questions in your original post regarding the DRC suspension and replacing with Koni's... Luckily, all the answers are in this 4-page thread!

[dre]

Welcome!...
You have 9 questions in your original post regarding the DRC suspension and replacing with Koni's... Luckily, all the answers are in this 4-page thread!

Awesome thanks for all the info. I cant wait to take out the old DRC and put in the Koni's!

[ttboost]

My DRC will have to stay for a while now...stupid transmission...

[dre]

Hey 4.2 where did you buy your strut mounts? Did you buy them on tire rack as well?

[4.2Crew]

I purchased the OEM mounts online...

[4.2Crew]

Oops. Sorry. Didn't really answer your question completely.

Purchased oem's from:

http://genuineaudiparts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214407

I've seen aftermarket mounts from NAPA... Wasn't too impressed. They weighed half the weight eom's and the rubber felt more plastic'y than rubber'y. So decided to stick with oem's.

[dre]

Well I went ahead and ordered it from tire rack. Should have it by mid week. That will give me Saturday and Sunday to install it. I`ll keep you guys posted! Thanks for all the help.

[dre]

I just got the konis from tire rack and I was wondering how do I adjust the rebound dampening on the suspension? The instructions really don't explain it thoroughly lol, just a bunch of pictures and no words lol. 4.2 any advice since you have already did this.

[NSU RS6]

IIRC -non-externally adjustable Koni's are adjusted prior to installation by completely compressing the damper and rotating the shaft until you feel it engage. I then back it all of the way off (soften) and then fully tighten (hardest), noting these positions. This gives me the full known range of settings. I have typically then set mine at the mid point, and left them like that for as long as I had the car, with great results - I love Koni's. For the RS6, I would be tempted due to weight and the general nature of the car, to set it at 3/4's hard. Good thing - these settings may be adjusted at a later time if the results are not desired or the shock has softened with use (typical). Bad thing - you have to disassemble the suspension and free the shock to do it.

Good luck!

[lswing]

I set mine at lowest spring perch, perfect level. Originally at full soft rebound, would go one click firm now that broken in, stock springs, love it!

[4.2Crew]

I just got the konis from tire rack and I was wondering how do I adjust the rebound dampening on the suspension? The instructions really don't explain it thoroughly lol, just a bunch of pictures and no words lol. 4.2 any advice since you have already did this.

If you poke around on Koni's website, you'll find detailed instructions and info... As other's have said, push (compress) the rod all the way in until it bottoms. Then, rotate rotate using the appropriate allen wrench--- I think full soft is counter-clockwise until no more rotation, and full firm is clockwise with no more rotation. I'm set very close to full soft as a daily MN Winter comuter...

Be advised:

1) There is one perch hieght for the fronts and two for the rear----most set the rears on the lowest perch hieght.

2) There is more rotational adjustability in the front than rears.

3) There seems to be a non-linear dependency between the setting and firmness.... ie. Dampening set at the midway point on both fronts and rears is still very firm.----At least IMHO.

Good luck!

[dre]

Wow thanks for all the info everyone. After doing some research on youtube they said exactly what you have all said here. Thanks again, I`ll keep you all posted and take some pics then post when I can! :rs6kiss:

[dre]

Ok so I figured out how to adjust dampening but I was wondering something when I fully decompress the bar to adjust the dampening and let go isn't the rod suppose to go back up on its own? Or does it have to build pressure first in order for the rod to go back up on its own? Or do I have to assemble the whole thing first and the spring will keep the rod up and build pressure that way? I hope I'm asking the question the right way and you guys understand lol.

[4.2Crew]

What you are experiencing is normal for properly functioning Koni struts for the RS6... The struts provide dampening on both the rebound and compression stroke. Therefore, significant resistance should be felt when trying to compress or extend by hand. And will likely NOT "relax" extended or closed on their own.

[lswing]

My DRC will have to stay for a while now...stupid transmission...

Any chance you can work the struts in? The change from drc was great for me. How goes the trans swap?

[dre]

Ok cool so it's normal for the rod to not extend after I decompress the rod fully to adjust the dampening. Thanks for the info everyone!

[kilian tuning]

are these the same?http://www.ebay.de/itm/Koni-Fahrwerk-55-35mm-Tieferlegung-Audi-A6-4B-4BQ-Quattro-4-2-V8-S6-RS6-Turbo-/350679033084?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item51a61964fc

[4.2Crew]

The only way to be sure is to confirm the listing is for Koni part numbers:

Front: 82-2516sport
Rear: 82-2526sport

[dre]

Ok so I finally got the change done! Thank god because that noise was killing me. Can tell the difference right away, like night and day! Car rides awesome! But now that I put the konis in, the self adjusting light for the DRC is going on on the dash. 4.2 how did you get around this? Were you able to find a way to disable the light from going on?

[mik15]

what light? there shouldn't be any light as the system(DRC) is completely mechanical, there are no sensors and the ECU has no idea what the DRC does, there is no connection between DRC and the other modules! The light must be warning you of another totally different error!

[kilian tuning]

...you mean the self adjusting height control...

[4everRS]

Ya I'm sure he means the leveling sensor for the headlights.

Its on the front drivers side lower front control arm. It could have been forgotten/overlooked upon reassembly.

[4.2Crew]

Look for this linkage inside the front driver's wheel well to ensure it isn't busted, corroded or disconnected...

http://forums.audiworld.com/picture.php?albumid=69167&pictureid=201064

[dre]

The shop that installed my konis said because I installed aftermarket stuff and not OEM said because my shocks were self adjusting that the light will go off. Does this sound right?

[dre]

Ok I'll take a look at it when I can, and yes kilian I meant the self adjusting height control lol, sorry couldn't remember what the guys at the shop told me.

[lswing]

The shop that installed my konis said because I installed aftermarket stuff and not OEM said because my shocks were self adjusting that the light will go off. Does this sound right?

No, be wary of your shop...

btw, my headlights have pointed low ever since the Koni's, you guys get this? Need to do some adjusting, tried the light adjust screws and vag, need to trick a sensor into level i think.

[4.2Crew]

No, be wary of your shop...

btw, my headlights have pointed low ever since the Koni's, you guys get this? Need to do some adjusting, tried the light adjust screws and vag, need to trick a sensor into level i think.

Agreed. Be wary of the shop.

I readjusted my headlights slightly higher by tweeking the linkage and bracket that can be seen in my previous post... Could be judged as a bit "shade tree", but it worked!

[dre]

ok cool, I`ll keep you guys posted on whats going on!

[780z]

Kilian,
Can you tell me please what kind of clearance your wheels / tyres give your struts as I am wondering whether this is the widest wheel / tyre combination that can be used with the RS6 Avant.

[dre]

Well got in there today and sure enough it was disconnected! Connected it and the light went away. Thanks a bunch guys. Your are the best. Now to figure out why the ABS and traction control light is on lol. Thanks 4.2 and everyone else for all your input, oh and about 300 miles so far with the konis on and its riding really well. A difference of night and day.

[lswing]

Glad to hear that was it, bummer about the other lights. Again, spending $250 for the ross-tech software has been invaluable in being able to troubleshoot issues before taking to the mechanic.

Really like the Koni ride, still two minor things since the swap that bug me. Headlights are a bit low, gotta get off my ass and fine tune them:) More vibration/road feel through the wheel. Now this can be great when cornering, but i swear i feel every bit of the road when cruising, would like it to be smooth as silk on a smooth road. We've pulled the car apart a few times, almost every suspension part is new, even tried different wheel/tire sets, still bits of vibration. I figure all is super tight so i just feel more, the mushy drc would get little stuff on the freeway at 80...

The Koni's are a great ride and height, almost perfect...

[kismetcapitan]

Glad to hear that was it, bummer about the other lights. Again, spending $250 for the ross-tech software has been invaluable in being able to troubleshoot issues before taking to the mechanic.

Really like the Koni ride, still two minor things since the swap that bug me. Headlights are a bit low, gotta get off my ass and fine tune them:) More vibration/road feel through the wheel. Now this can be great when cornering, but i swear i feel every bit of the road when cruising, would like it to be smooth as silk on a smooth road. We've pulled the car apart a few times, almost every suspension part is new, even tried different wheel/tire sets, still bits of vibration. I figure all is super tight so i just feel more, the mushy drc would get little stuff on the freeway at 80...

The Koni's are a great ride and height, almost perfect...

ok, that makes sense! I was wondering why my headlights, even though they're too bright to look at, seem to light up the road less. Adjust them higher, got it :)

The Koni struts with the stock springs probably deliver the best combination of better performance and reasonable ground clearance. The ride with H&R springs is, while great during spirited driving, pretty harsh over bumps that normal cars just float over. Sometimes I fly out of my seat a bit, but I'm pretty accustomed to rock-hard suspensions. I've found the lowered ground clearance has made it impossible to go through most automatic car washes and I've bottomed out the car's frame a couple times on some very steep driveways.

I wonder about the vibration you're feeling. Initially I'd say bushings, wheel balance or alignment, but seems like you took care of that. I had vibration issues but sorted it with new control arms, new tires, and worked over the alignment thoroughly. There is more road feel definitely though; whenever I drive my wife's Hyundai I swear it feels like the steering wheel on old arcade games.

[mdegracia]

FYI

For anybody considering this setup....ordered mine this morning!

http://www.tirerack.com/specialoffers/details.jsp?promoID=I312

[NSU RS6]

Anyone trying the Koni FSD - or is everyone going Sports?

[hahnmgh63]

With the Koni's what kind of stance is your car at? What are the heights front & rear? After I installed my KW's I re-leveled the headlights and then did the Vagcom headlight level calibration and all is fine.

[Lion Heart]

Hi guys

Great thread!!!

However - one thing that has not been covered: what do you do with the DRC fluid, and are the cannisters and pipework all left in place?

I assume it's wise just to disconnect the pipes from the DRC struts and cap the pipe off in a convenient place and just leave the fluid in the system as it's redundant and leave the pipes in place as it's a pig to remove them all?

Or do you need to drain all the fluid??

Thanks guys!!

[ttboost]

I would hang a can or a plastic bag over the end of each line and blow compressed air through the system to evacuate all the fluid. 1 less thing to leak. A little weight savings too...LOL...

[hahnmgh63]

I completely removed all of the DRC lines (just like metal Brake lines) that go Front Right to Rear Left & Front Left to Rear Right. And un-bolted the to accumulators crossover valves from the front of the spare tire well. A few pounds savings and do you really ever intend to go back? If you have KWV3's I guarantee you won't. Not sure of the exact content of the fluid but seemed like pretty standard Hydraulic fluid, probably about 10w or something.

[ttboost]

Are the lines fairly accessible on a lift? Do you have to remove anything to get them out? Are they all bolted/strapped to the undercarriage or routed through places and things...?

[dab]

Yes, the factory springs were retained...

I'll post pics later today of the car.

As for as cost and simplicity, I echo your sentiments exactly!..... Just couldn't see the value in coilovers for my driving lifestyle---"Set it, adjust it, and forget it!" Factor in the cost savings and the fact that, if you do this yourself or pay someone, the labor time is about the same!.... One exception: The 2Bennet coilovers come ready for "bolt-in." But delivered to my door they where just under $2100...

To my surprise, I couldn't find anyone else in the forum archives that went this route----Or, at least posted about it!....

Adjustable ride-height coilovers do have an advantage over this method. But, you can cut additional grooves into the Koni strut body to achieve the same results... If using the factory spring, the critical measurement is from the center of the bottom mounting eye to the bottom spring perch----that is where the 95% of the ride height is determined....

Also, here in MN, the screw-type adjustable spring perches are exposed to extereme envirnmental conditions... Just ask a shop if they like working on adjustable coilovers once those fine threads are corroded!

So I have the konis installed, rear height is not where I wanted. Ask the shop about putting another notch in the shock they don't believe they can. Can you share how you would cut additional grooves in the shock body?

[lswing]

It seems like it would be sketchy to cut a notch, you could pierce the strut body. If I remember, the spring mount is like a big e-clip, just needs a groove to clip into. I think the ride is perfect, I'm almost perfect level, sitting on low all around I believe, fronts are not height adjustable right.

[4.2Crew]

Mine sits perfectly level as well... Cutting an extra groove into strut bodies is quite common for fine tuning ride height and preload in custom applications---grooves are relatively very shallow with all forces being in "shear."

Good luck!

[dab]

So I have the konis installed, rear height is not where I wanted. Ask the shop about putting another notch in the shock they don't believe they can. Can you share how you would cut additional grooves in the shock body? Here are the after pics


14104141051410614104

[lswing]

Hmmm, rear does seem a bit high, tough to really tell without a true side profile on flat surface, but guess it's high. So it's on lowest perch? Maybe something wrong with the install or struts?

[alrightroad]

Gents with the Konis and stock springs... I am thinking about this setup on my allroad. Car is about 200 lbs heavier than RS (can't recall exactly as I am mobile right now). Would the Konis rebound and damper movement well with an extra 200-250 lbs in your RS?

[lswing]

Well, I got mine on the softest of (5?) settings and the ride is just a bit firmer than DRC was, I really like it. Could go one click firmer to match the spring rate a bit better, but really good all around ride. I would think a few hundred pounds wouldn't bother the Koni's.

[lswing]

Thanks again to 4.2 crew!

[bphouston]

just did the SAME swap, using the Koni Yellow shocks. I can't believe i waited this long to do this....better than stock, good ride quality, crisp handling but not annoying or too bumpy. Used stock springs. After having THREE (3) OEM shock set-ups FAIL, this is by far the best handling my RS6 has been. Slightly modified the initial adjustment, set the fronts at 1.5 turn from softest, and set rears at 0.75 turns from softest.

[Urbo]

Just had my DRC replaced with the Koni struts and they rock. The tech put the fronts on the 6th position (half way) and the rears on 7th to control acceleration squat. Added the Hotchkis SB's and the ride and handling are firm and compliant. Tech said the strut settings relate the position / depth of the strut at rest which is why he recommended the 6th position. Read on another forum post that the settings were to make up for wear over time. So who knows.


Appreciate that the car doesn't scrape on parking curbs or speed bumps. It almost soaks up speedbumps now. Purchased the car with a failed DRC so can't compare it to the original set up.

[lswing]

Just had my DRC replaced with the Koni struts and they rock. The tech put the fronts on the 6th position (half way) and the rears on 7th to control acceleration squat. Added the Hotchkis SB's and the ride and handling are firm and compliant. Tech said the strut settings relate the position / depth of the strut at rest which is why he recommended the 6th position. Read on another forum post that the settings were to make up for wear over time. So who knows.


Appreciate that the car doesn't scrape on parking curbs or speed bumps. It almost soaks up speedbumps now. Purchased the car with a failed DRC so can't compare it to the original set up.

Glad to hear it, I really like the setup and price can't be beat! I'm set on full soft all around, but ride is still firm, although I think the back has sagged about 1/4" or so. Enjoy!

[DHall1]

If others are not having probs w/high rears....then loosen the rear control arms, let the car settle, retorque WITH weight on the rear wheels.


Here are the after pics


14104141051410614104

[4everRS]

If others are not having probs w/high rears....then loosen the rear control arms, let the car settle, retorque WITH weight on the rear wheels.

This has worked well for me in the past.

I would have a hard time not going with the koni setup if my well functioning DRC fails.

[spiff637]

I just ordered my Koni's at TireRack.. $595.56 after tax and free shipping.. I'll try to take as many pictures as I can. I am so greatful I found this.. It's going to easily save me 2 grand and give me a ride I can be happy with.. Thank you!

[humantic]

Well this has been a timely bump on this thread. My DRC developed a leak last week and I've been debating what route to take. I'm glad I saw this as I was getting very near to going the coilover route. However I think I've found the solution for me here, and considering this route is so much more economical than the others I may just throw in the sway bars to boot. Thank you 4.2Crew for starting this thread and to all the others that contributed to the conversation, much has been learned and much will be saved.

[mik15]

please come back with feedback once you have it installed. You had a good working DRC for quite a while now so your comparison DRC vs Koni will be most welcomed :).

[humantic]

I will. I ordered the shocks last night and hopefully the swap will be completed this weekend. Fortunately I only had to deal with the noise for one day so my comparison should be unbiased with respect to clunking and poor stability as the experience of a properly functioning DRC is still fresh.

[kismetcapitan]

2 years on my Konis + H&R springs. It's a very harsh ride but the performance is sublime....all for (relatively) stupid cheap!

[Bigglezworth]

2 years on my Konis + H&R springs. It's a very harsh ride but the performance is sublime....all for (relatively) stupid cheap!And no crazy teeter totter like a cheap coil over suspension going over bumps right?

[humantic]

As of 10 pm last night most of the DRC had been torn down, lines ready to remove, and the front struts assembled and ready to go back in. We decided to set the stiffness at one notch above the softest to compensate for the eventual softening as reported. Hopefully by Wednesday the car will be back on the road. We did notice some cracking of the bushings in the upper control arms and debated replacing them now, I lost that argument, the guy doing work thinks we should wait figuring that replacing them later won't be too hard. After an evaluation period I'll make a decision on a sway bar, although I'm fairly certain that a new sway bar will be installed at the next oil change, which given the miles I drive is about two months away. As seen in the images below we acquire new strut mounts, not oem but the quality in terms of material thickness and such was similar to oem.1522815229

[mik15]

you could've done the upper arm bushes as well if they're shot or close to, in order to replace them you'll have to unbolt and lower(or twist it cca 30 degrees) the strut/spring assembly. Anyway, do let us know your feedback as soon as it's all back together and you get to drive it.

[lswing]

As of 10 pm last night most of the DRC had been torn down, lines ready to remove, and the front struts assembled and ready to go back in. We decided to set the stiffness at one notch above the softest to compensate for the eventual softening as reported. Hopefully by Wednesday the car will be back on the road. We did notice some cracking of the bushings in the upper control arms and debated replacing them now, I lost that argument, the guy doing work thinks we should wait figuring that replacing them later won't be too hard. After an evaluation period I'll make a decision on a sway bar, although I'm fairly certain that a new sway bar will be installed at the next oil change, which given the miles I drive is about two months away. As seen in the images below we acquire new strut mounts, not oem but the quality in terms of material thickness and such was similar to oem.1522815229

Nice, I often want mine set one firmer than base level, will be solid. I couldn't believe I waited so long for the sway bars, so good and level through corners, car is tight and responsive, predictable.

[04rs6cdn]

Help...I just did this swap but my tech installed the fronts out of the box with out adjusting them....I got there in time to adjust the back shocks to lowest perch and 1/2 a turn from soft...so do you guys know what the front might be set at from the factory??

[humantic]

Sorry 04rs5cdn I can't comment on the as received factory setting, I'll ask the guy who did the work for me to see if he knows. I can say this though, I'm very satisfied with the results. I've only driven 3 miles on the retrofitted system so far. Tomorrow it will get the 100 mile commute.

As i said before we sett the the height the same as DHall, however we ste the stiffness one notch stiffer than the softest. The ride quality is as good as the DRC, it feels firmer, but not a head jarring-back breaking firmer, more like a solid ride firmer. For the last week I have been driving my old A6, which had the springs replaced, after one of the oem springs broke, with the H&R lowering springs. That car has a fairly stiff ride probably similar to what kismetcaptain is experiencing. This ride is much nicer than that. If anybody else is on the fence about this you won't be sorry if you go this route. Thank you again Dave for your trail blazing and all the others who contributed to this effort.

Attached is an image that shows the way the car sits after the retrofit, we didn't notice any change in ride height or rake, but then again we didn't take measurements so that is a subjective assessment.

15239

[humantic]

04rs6cdn, the guy who installed my struts thinks that out of the box the front struts were at one off soft, which is where we set my struts to for installation.

[DHall1]

Crap.

I get credit for stuff I never had a part in. Thats awesome

;-) I think it was the guy in MN that was the first.

I run KW V3s on one and H/R street coilovers on the other.

[humantic]

Damn, my mistake, my apologies 4.2crew, the thanks go to you. Although DHall1 you deserve some credit too as a contributor.

[mik15]

this should be added to the sticky list....

[2000c43]

Thank you 4.2Crew and others who have contributed to this thread. I've owned my car for many years now and have had periods of functioning DRC, factory DRC recall functioning with a high rear end, non-functioning, etc. I finally bit the bullet and pulled out the DRC for Koni Yellows per 4.2Crew's guide since the DRC started to show signs of leaking again. I set the shocks to: Front - 1/2 turn from full soft rebound and stock Koni perch height and Rear - 1/4 turn from full soft rebound and low Koni perch height. Car sits level with a really nice consistent gap around all four tires. Love the ride quality so far and I don't hear any suspension noise at all. Thanks again!

[lswing]

Very nice, another convert! Same height setting here, very good. I'm full soft all around, but on spirited drives would like just a bit more firmness, your setup should be great. Cheers!

[4.2Crew]

Glad to hear it all worked out well for you!... IMHO, the car has a much better "sit" than stock. BTW, keep your receipt for the Koni's----they have lifetime free replacement to the original purchaser.

[04rs6cdn]

I too did the swap, but a word of caution the lower retaining washer is very close to the axle shaft when clipped on the lowest setting on the rear shocks. One of my clips popped out and caused the washer to rub on the shaft until it snapped. After I fixed it I checked the other side and noticed that it too could fail. So I tack welded a few spots below it to make sure this wont happen again. Maybe I got bad clips? I dont know. The design seems weird to me for those tiny clips that slide into the grooves and then have to hold all that weight.

[lswing]

The design seems weird to me for those tiny clips that slide into the grooves and then have to hold all that weight.

Agreed. I always hoped there was some level of weight distribution occurring that I did not understand. Those clips are so small, made me scratch my head. But my experienced mechanic thought it was normal...

Another note, I never got the chance to stiffen mine up a turn, but since adding the Hotchkis sway bars, maybe no need. So much of the body roll was removed, and suspension really glides through uneven corners. The combination is excellent.

[petzl21]

OK, so question for you 4.2Crew and others that have done this swap. What other parts from this diagram (other than the strut) did you replace/refresh when doing the swap? Is the strut mount the lower, or upper one (part number 15, has an upper and lower one?
http://www.rs6.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15472&d=1409840659

[lswing]

Quick photo update on level of the car. Seems to have settled just a touch in the back. On the low perch for the rear, setting soft all around. Two fingers gap for the back, about three up front, fairly close to level. At full wheel lock there is just a tough of rubbing up front on the inner plastic, very minor though. All and all very solid setup and great performance.

http://audirssix.com/images/side1.jpg?lbisphpreq=1

[wes]

here's what I got out of the entire 8 pages:

Please note these are not my findings but are the findings of everyone that have posted on this thread earlier, this is basically a summary I have put together with hopefully all the info needed by using all the contributors that have posted previously to this post:





DRC REPLACEMENT

Be advised:
1) Without knowing your experience level, it is difficult to help determine if it's a DIY... It is a big, messy all-day DIY job to go from DRC to Koni's/oem springs. If you've never done strut-type suspension work on Audi's/VW's, find assistance or outsource. Compressing springs can be very dangerous if not done correctly. Plus, there are procedures like removing the upright pinch-bolt that can be a real bitch even with the right tools, techniques and experience.

Tools required:

complete set of metric wrenches and sockets
torque wrench
spring compressor
hydraulic jack
jack stands (if not using a lift)
pry bar
container to catch stinky DRC juice
beer

Tools desired:

lift
pneumatics (impact gun and wrench)
paint pen to mark/index strut-spring components prior to disassembly for ease of reassembly alignment
experienced helper
Southern Comfort

You can research this site for suspension procedural write-ups, but nothing will be step-wise exact to the RS6:

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel.html

2) There is one perch height for the fronts and two for the rear----most set the rears on the lowest perch height.

3) There is more rotational adjustability in the front than rears.

4) There seems to be a non-linear dependency between the setting and firmness.... ie. Dampening set at the midway point on both fronts and rears is still very firm.----At least IMHO.

5) The factory springs were retained
6) Adjustable ride-height coilovers do have an advantage over this method. But, you can cut additional grooves into the Koni strut body to achieve the same results. If using the factory spring, the critical measurement is from the center of the bottom mounting eye to the bottom spring perch, that is where the 95% of the ride height is determined.
7) The height is within 1/16" on each corner as before the swap
8) This is a big job! Not necessarily difficult, but time consuming.
9) First impressions:
- The ride height is slightly lower than stock without tucking the wheels resulting in a slightly sportier look
- No more unidentified suspension noises (USN's) from the DRC from normal driving conditions
- Corners like a champ (car has H-bars) with good turn-in and very flat
- Install cost me $425 at a local shop.

10) Purchase the OEM strut mounts online.
http://genuineaudiparts.com/parts/2004/Audi/A6%20Quattro/Base/?siteid=214407&vehicleid=173985&section=FRONT%20SUSPENSION

The Koni's product numbers are:

Front: 82-2516sport
Rear: 82-2526sport

As for the DRC Lines:

I completely removed all of the DRC lines (just like metal Brake lines) that go Front Right to Rear Left & Front Left to Rear Right. And un-bolted the to accumulators crossover valves from the front of the spare tire well. A few pounds savings and do you really ever intend to go back? If you have KWV3's I guarantee you won't. Not sure of the exact content of the fluid but seemed like pretty standard Hydraulic fluid, probably about 10w or something.

THE BUSHES AND SWAY ARMS

you could've done the upper arm bushes as well if they're shot or close to, in order to replace them you'll have to unbolt and lower(or twist it cca 30 degrees) the strut/spring assembly

SETTING THE KONI SHOCKS:
1 - I set the shocks to: Front - 1/2 turn from full soft rebound and stock Koni perch height and Rear - 1/4 turn from full soft rebound and low Koni perch height. Car sits level with a really nice consistent gap around all four tires. Love the ride quality so far and I don't hear any suspension noise at all.
2 - The fronts have about 2.5 full turns of rebound dampening adjustability and the rears have about 1.25 turns... I set the fronts at 1 turn from softest, and rears at 0.5 turns from softest. Also, the Koni fronts have only one lower perch groove. However, Easy enough to cut a groove if ride height needs adjustment. The Koni rears have 3 grooves (approx 3/8" apart)... I chose the middle groove which yielded an oem rear ride height.
3 - If I knew then, what I know now, I would've started at full soft on the rebound settings AND placed the rears on the lowest perch height.
4 - Last weekend I decided to "tune" the new Koni's... Not that anything was wrong with the ride or compliance, but just wanted to ever so slightly soften the ride.
5 - If you poke around on Koni's website, you'll find detailed instructions and info... As other's have said, push (compress) the rod all the way in until it bottoms. Then, rotate rotate using the appropriate allen wrench--- I think full soft is counter-clockwise until no more rotation, and full firm is clockwise with no more rotation.
6 - -non-externally adjustable Koni's are adjusted prior to installation by completely compressing the damper and rotating the shaft until you feel it engage. I then back it all of the way off (soften) and then fully tighten (hardest), noting these positions. This gives me the full known range of settings. I have typically then set mine at the mid point, and left them like that for as long as I had the car, with great results - I love Koni's. For the RS6, I would be tempted due to weight and the general nature of the car, to set it at 3/4's hard. Good thing - these settings may be adjusted at a later time if the results are not desired or the shock has softened with use (typical). Bad thing - you have to disassemble the suspension and free the shock to do it.

The initial settings after install were:

Fronts: 1 turn from full soft rebound and stock Koni perch height.
Rears: 1/2 turn from full soft rebound and middle Koni perch height. (There are 3 lower perch heights)

The new settings are:

Fronts: 1/2 turn from full soft rebound and stock Koni perch height.
Rears: 1/4 turn from full soft rebound and low Koni perch height. (There are 3 lower perch heights)

Ride compliance is now perfect for my driving lifestyle!... The rear ride height dropped about 1/4" yeilding a "level chasis." The car now sits perfectly level!... No rake. Most of the rake was removed after swapping the DRC out, but it was still slightly high in the rear... Softening the rebound a bit and moving to the lower perch on the rears was worth the 4 hours!

FAQ’s

Your description of the rear perches is a bit confusing, how about stock height for the lowest, then each one up a 1/4" more raised.... Sorry, it is not only confusing, but hard to articulately describe... I could be wrong, but I think a stock RS6 with the DRC properly set-up, has a slight chasis rake... I prefer the car to sit level with a full belly of fuel---and the lowest rear perch height on the Koni's yeilds that on my car.

What's your reasoning for a bit stiffer in the front, engine weight, nose diving I guess?
The Koni's range of adjustability is different on the front than the rears.... 2 1/4 turns of adjustability on the fronts and only 1 1/8 turns on the rears. Also, to make it even more confusing, I do not think there is a linear dependence (ie. a half turn from full soft rebound might still be quite firm, but a half turn from full firm will likely feel no different than full firm)

How compliant are the small bumps now? I know it's tough to describe, but all the 1" ruts and holes around town kill my back, so I've been thinking full soft just to be safe...
Noticeably better after last weeks "tuning." I don't think you will go wrong at full soft front and rear.
ADDITIONAL INFO:

BTW, keep your receipt for the Koni's----they have lifetime free replacement to the original purchaser


Another note, I never got the chance to stiffen mine up a turn, but since adding the Hotchkis sway bars, maybe no need. So much of the body roll was removed, and suspension really glides through uneven corners. The combination is excellent.

[lswing]

^^^Mic drop...nice summary!

[MotorCity6]

hell yea, thanks for the killer summary. probably what I will end up doing

[Drifters]

Just did this to mine (Koni shocks with stock springs). The ride is smooth and handles pretty well. Definitely a good way to go if you don't need coil-overs.

[TMAC]

I did my swap over last weekend. I also choose to replace my springs with H&R lowering springs and front upper and lower control arms.

[Bigglezworth]

I too did the swap, but a word of caution the lower retaining washer is very close to the axle shaft when clipped on the lowest setting on the rear shocks. One of my clips popped out and caused the washer to rub on the shaft until it snapped. After I fixed it I checked the other side and noticed that it too could fail. So I tack welded a few spots below it to make sure this wont happen again. Maybe I got bad clips? I dont know. The design seems weird to me for those tiny clips that slide into the grooves and then have to hold all that weight.You didn't get bad clips. I believe you installed the rear mounting pearch 'upside down'. There is a groove/lip on one side of the perch that retains/traps the clip on the damper housing and can't allow it to lift out of the groove.

[SensoRS6]

Where did you get the front mounts? 4.2Crew (http://www.rs6.com/member.php/16523-4-2Crew)

[Bigglezworth]

An additional note to everything that has been provided in this thread over the months. Ensure you install the perch for the rears correctly. There is a notch that retains the shear clip and that notch is to face towards the ground.

Photo showing the underside of the perch that is to face towards the ground
16783



Photo of the perch containing the shear clip on the body of the damper
16784

[bethridg]

I'm pretty sure that my DRC committed suicide yesterday. First hint was a couple weeks ago when I started hearing clunks when rolling over the curb at the end of the driveway and it wasn't soaking up bumps anymore. It's fairly terrifying how unstable the chassis feels at speed. The car skitters sideways over large bumps and floats through dips. Luckily I decided to pick up a set of Konis to go with the new front control arm kit. This thread will be invaluable this weekend. Thanks.

[lswing]

I'm pretty sure that my DRC committed suicide yesterday. First hint was a couple weeks ago when I started hearing clunks when rolling over the curb at the end of the driveway and it wasn't soaking up bumps anymore. It's fairly terrifying how unstable the chassis feels at speed. The car skitters sideways over large bumps and floats through dips. Luckily I decided to pick up a set of Konis to go with the new front control arm kit. This thread will be invaluable this weekend. Thanks.

Exactly how mine felt...it was empty of oil when we pulled it. Good luck with the Koni's, really like them.

[VAG]

Anyone try and put air ride on a RS6 yet? :looking:

[bethridg]

Last weekend I finally got around to re-adjusting the Konis after the initial install. Rear-end was squatting terribly and upon inspection there was some slight rubbing on the rear axle shafts from the spring perch (just removed some paint). Ended up raising the rear to the second lowest groove which produced a close to factory DRC ride height. I was unable to get the front any lower. I think it's the fresh/stiffer bushings in the 034 front control arm kit (properly preloaded). Overall, happy with the ride quality. A dialed in DRC is far superior but for a fraction of the cost these are more than an acceptable alternative.


http://i.imgur.com/vPf8iK4h.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/kk6SRpCh.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/bjJ8hW4h.jpg

[Bigglezworth]

Rear-end was squatting terribly and upon inspection there was some slight rubbing on the rear axle shafts from the spring perch (just removed some paint).The Koni's will all rub on the axle shaft yes. The height is established based upon the shaft thickness for the A6, which isn't as thick in diameter as those use on the RS6. It will eventually wear a small groove in to the bottom of the perch over time.


A dialed in DRC is far superior but for a fraction of the cost these are more than an acceptable alternative.DRC remains the best suspension on this car IMO. All of the coil overs don't perform as well all round. And why would they? They aren't dynamic which is why the DRC is so special. Comfort and performance all in one.

[nistah]

DRC is on it's way out, It has become clear to me that repairing the DRC system is worthless

Trying to decide if I should replace it with either of the following setups:

Koni part #'s
Front: 82-2516sport
Rear: 82-2526sport
and H&R lowering springs
Cost all in for the Koni & H&R parts shipped is $845.00

or I can get

<style type="text/css">p.p1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 14.0px Times; color: #18170d}p.p2 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 26.0px Times; color: #18170d}p.p3 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 13.0px Times; color: #18170d}li.li1 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 14.0px Times; color: #18170d}li.li4 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 12.0px Times; color: #18170d}li.li5 {margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; font: 16.0px Times; color: #18170d}span.s1 {letter-spacing: 0.0px}ul.ul1 {list-style-type: disc}ul.ul2 {list-style-type: none}</style>KW (https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?make=KW&model=Variant+1+Coil-Over&group=Variant+1+Coil-Over&partNum=KW10210053&autoMake=Audi&autoModel=RS6&autoYear=2003&autoModClar=Standard+Model)
VARIANT 1 COIL-OVER (https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?make=KW&model=Variant+1+Coil-Over&group=Variant+1+Coil-Over&partNum=KW10210053&autoMake=Audi&autoModel=RS6&autoYear=2003&autoModClar=Standard+Model)
Premium, Performance Street
Sportive and harmonic with KW factory pre-set damping
Optimally tuned for a sporty yet comfortable drive
"inox-line" stainless steel technology (where applicable)
FRONT AND REAR
Ride Height: Threaded Adjustment
Manufacturer Part #: 10210053
Cost all in for the KW V1 parts shipped is $1148.92

My initial thought is to spend the extra money on the KW V1 set up as they are made directly for the RS6 while the Koni's are made for A6 but do fit RS6 however I open to hearing informed opinions on each set up..... any helpful thoughts, insights and/or alternatives appreciated!

[Cmnair]

The car had KW V1s when I bought it. Didn't like the ride...toofloppy and bouncy over slight undulations on the road. Switched to Koni Yellows with stock springs and the ride is much better. No excessive rebound etc. Never experienced a properly functioning DRC though.

[nubcake]

KW V1 is junk, avoid it.
Like mentioned, too bouncy. Not a "sporty" feel at all.
Konis are decent.

[TMAC]

KW V1 is junk, avoid it.
Like mentioned, too bouncy. Not a "sporty" feel at all.
Konis are decent.

I have to say I disagree with the quoted comment above. I went with the Koni/H&R Spring set up first and then moved to the coilovers (KW-V1). I was very happy with my decision when I made the swap. I took a 1200 mile drive with my family after installing the coilovers through the country roads of GA and NC and the car felt great.

Suspension has a lot more to do with your individual style and taste at this level in my opinion. I have owned it all and on many different cars. Some are harsh based on design (track use vs. daily road use). All my opinion but thought I would share. :incar:

[Cmnair]

Sorry the car was scary and unmanageable with the KW V1s. It was installed by the PO...maybe not matched well for the car?

[kevcp]

Spend the extra money for the V3 and then add Hotchkis sway bars...

[Cmnair]

Spend the extra money for the V3 and then add Hotchkis sway bars...
Agreed ..the V3s are a whole another story

[nistah]

Spend the extra money for the V3 and then add Hotchkis sway bars...

I made a compromise, bought the Hotchkis sway bars which I've only heard positive things about from everyone and matched them with 2 front Koni 82-2516Sports & 2 Koni 82-2526sport rears. Figured what I may give up in performance with the Koni's vs KW V3's I'll make up for with the addition of the Hotchkis Swaybar set.

All in my cost for this set up is under $1000 from TireRack which is less than half the cost of the KW-V3's and less than the total cost of the KW-V1's alone, nice price.

Currently carefully reading the installation summary above w/ links to step by step and it seems you need to get the Koni's dialed in just right, I am aiming for something similar to DRC ride quality and similar ride height with a more level look than the stock settings which ride high in the rear.

Questions: also looking into replacing the upper control arm bushings since mine always tend to be shot after a year or so....and I'm seeing a variety of options including:
OEM
HD
Delphi
034

Which of above are best bet for upper control arm bushings?

Also planning to use the factory springs as I don't want to use the H&R kit because I don't want to lower the stance of the car too much, any risk with going with the the OEM factory springs matched up to Koni's once everything is apart? Does a new regular version of the springs exist that does not lower but provides new OEM or OEM like springs to match to the Koni's?

Should I replace anything else once oil demon DRC is removed & the car is apart: IE tie rod ends, cv boot etc want to be thorough and coordinate to get as much done as possible at once. Thanks to everyone on this forum for the information :bow:

[JakeLight]

Can anyone who has done this procedure comment on the fitment of the metal perch ring for the rear shock? I received a set where the ring would not fit over the shock housing and after some hubbabaloo Tire Rack and Koni support decided that every shock (82-2526SPORT) they had in inventory matching my manufacture date were shipped with the wrong perch ring.

I now have just received my replacement with a different manufacture date, and the metal perch ring with these also does not fit over the shock housing. Now could I make it go over with some force? Maybe, but I'm checking to see if for the folks that did this the ring just fit like it did for the front, or if any experienced rings that were so tight they would have to hammer them down to get them over the housing down to the support ring.

Thanks in advance

-jake

[Muggy]

Can't make any comments on a Koni setup, but on my Bilsteins, it slipped right on, no force necessary. I can't imagine that you'd be required to use a hammer on the perch to use it...that would surely scuff and damage the paint as well.

https://i.ibb.co/TWrKXQm/DF1-A44-F3-EF1-A-4923-8-AA7-D073-B47-CB914.jpg (https://ibb.co/QDX8BWr)

Come to think about it, I also had a Koni sport package for my '02 A6 2.7 MT, and don't remember any issues with this either...

[JakeLight]

Alrighty...so I went for it and after getting the perch ring hammered past the first 1/8" or so (and creating a nicely formed pile of Yellow paint shavings below) the rings were able to slide the rest of the way down the housing to the adjustment height clip - think I'm good here.

-jake

[spiff637]

Alrighty...so I went for it and after getting the perch ring hammered past the first 1/8" or so (and creating a nicely formed pile of Yellow paint shavings below) the rings were able to slide the rest of the way down the housing to the adjustment height clip - think I'm good here.



-jake

If you get stuck I can put you in contact with my guy who did this for my former baby years ago. He's probably still lurking on this board somewhere. Repeat after me, never sell this car. I miss it daily..

[JakeLight]

One more question for the group. (I had a shop do the work fyi...). I noticed when they installed the lower rear spring seat they didn't use the metal piece that is formed to hold the rubber spring seat piece which is built to keep the rubber from deforming.

Parts #2 and #6 from this diagram: https://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/images/parts/Audi/fullsize/195511150.jpg (2 is the rubber one that fits over 6 which is metal)

So what did you guys put between the spring and the metal perch ring that comes with the Koni rear shock? Did you just go directly with the rubber lower spring seat on the metal perch ring, or did you put metal on metal to the perch ring using the extra metal part, or whip up some kind of rubber gasket between the metal perch ring and the metal lower part that holds the rubber spring seat? I snagged those parts Audi spec'd for the 4.2L sport rear suspension as the DRC had already been replaced with Neuspeed coilovers.

-jake

[Muggy]

Pretty sure that I just did the rubber isolator directly on the lower perch on my Bilsteins...

https://i.ibb.co/fNtm5h1/C394-F4-CC-9-CB1-4-AED-AC4-D-87-F971208-AAC.jpg (https://ibb.co/DMk3yxV)

[AudiPilot]

Same for my Bilsteins, rubber mount directly on the lower perch ring.

[NerdyDeeds]

+1 more for the rubber mount. I remember having trouble getting the perches mounted on my Koni's as well. Then after two years the perches bent in the rear and one corner was sitting lower, so they're not up to the task IMO. Plus they're not very easy to adjust so I wouldn't recommend them.

I did recently put on the H&R springs as well, but now the car sits too low for my liking. I get a little bit of rubbing with the stock wheels, but I don't think my summers are going to fit at all. Muggy, how much of a drop are you expecting with the Bilstein/H&R combo?

[boca rat]

FWIW both my current RS6 and recently sold NSX came with old (I think 8 years+) H&R springs, and both sets were sagging badly. I don't know if this is expected behavior from lowering springs but I don't see them in a good light at all.

I have perfectly good Bilsteins (with the saggy H&Rs) on the RS6 right now, but will swap them out for KWV3/Bilsteins if I can get a good deal as labor cost to swap in new springs is more than swapping in new struts as best I understand it. And can sell off the current Bilsteins struts once swapped too.



+1 more for the rubber mount. I remember having trouble getting the perches mounted on my Koni's as well. Then after two years the perches bent in the rear and one corner was sitting lower, so they're not up to the task IMO. Plus they're not very easy to adjust so I wouldn't recommend them.

I did recently put on the H&R springs as well, but now the car sits too low for my liking. I get a little bit of rubbing with the stock wheels, but I don't think my summers are going to fit at all. Muggy, how much of a drop are you expecting with the Bilstein/H&R combo?

[Muggy]

+1 more for the rubber mount. I remember having trouble getting the perches mounted on my Koni's as well. Then after two years the perches bent in the rear and one corner was sitting lower, so they're not up to the task IMO. Plus they're not very easy to adjust so I wouldn't recommend them.

I did recently put on the H&R springs as well, but now the car sits too low for my liking. I get a little bit of rubbing with the stock wheels, but I don't think my summers are going to fit at all. Muggy, how much of a drop are you expecting with the Bilstein/H&R combo?

Mine seems to be a little nose heavy with the H&R sport (yes RS6 specific) springs and Bilsteins...also not in love with the handling either...too soft for me at higher speeds. I do get a touch of rubbing inside of one front fender on my stock wheels and tires that have burned a little slice out of the driver's side liner (no actual fender rub, but close!). My car came with the springs, new in the box, as some extras and I found a seller that had every bushing, nut, bolt, etc. to put together the full setup shown above for about $800 out of my pocket. At the time, I needed a budget friendly option and this fit the bill.

Once my trans is in and everything is running well, I'll probably upgrade to coilovers...I really like the look of the 2Bennett ones, but we'll see. I did pick up some RS4 wheels this week, and from photos that I've seen, I think there is just a hair more clearance between wheel size/offset and a thinner sidewall with less balloon than the OEM 18's. We'll see once I get it back on the ground though...may test fit to eyeball, but with no motor in, I won't be able to tell up front just yet on actually clearance under load.

Driver's front...lower than the passenger side..

https://i.ibb.co/gPpcvh2/9-F70794-B-FD09-4-FFE-8-B5-F-7759494-B151-A.jpg (https://ibb.co/pR8kW57)

Passenger front...

https://i.ibb.co/myFhVxQ/344-BCB2-C-3-C45-454-A-A4-D3-D25-ABCC78-CB7.jpg (https://ibb.co/wQrpFvD)

And on the rear...too much rake for my liking, but stuck with it for now....

https://i.ibb.co/R0f9Wdt/82-A8045-D-0-B0-F-4-F71-B911-5-A641771-D830.jpg (https://ibb.co/xjWDQdw)

https://i.ibb.co/Bn8pSHQ/21-DED665-6-D0-E-4-DAE-B309-5-C78-E055-B006.jpg (https://ibb.co/hYp6tx4)

https://i.ibb.co/1JXG73Y/E83727-C3-0-CE4-4828-A026-237-F43-AEF82-A.jpg (https://ibb.co/HpPTB0L)

And here's a pic that I pulled from a few-year-old BAT listing (maybe someone's car on here?)...showing the RS4 wheels and sitting lower than I am...looks like just a tiny bit more tuck than the stock 18's on mine now...

https://i.ibb.co/02ZwG7Y/E65-CCA2-E-BF73-4-DDC-9-DB3-11135-D9-E4-F23.jpg (https://ibb.co/YQ8rLCf)

[NerdyDeeds]

My front sits more like the car with the RS4 rims.
https://www.rs6.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19409&stc=1

[Muggy]

Oh man, that's gotta rub with OEM rubber...too low for sure on a static setup...

[kilian tuning]

For some reason the koni 82-2526sport arent available anymore here in the Netherlands...;(

[kilian tuning]

Managed to get a new set of koni 82-2526sport from France:)

[kilian tuning]

Anyone used the most firm setting rebound front and rear?

[kilian tuning]

So i made a start today dismantle the front suspension.
This bugger one is in rock solid, tried abusing the housing with a hammer, tried to turn the bold, nothing seems to work.
Sprayed with wd40 couple times.
Are there more options to get it loose without distroying the bold and drill it out?

https://i.ibb.co/qWzndqh/dpkA1IE.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)

[fukinavit]

So i made a start today dismantle the front suspension.
This bugger one is in rock solid, tried abusing the housing with a hammer, tried to turn the bold, nothing seems to work.
Sprayed with wd40 couple times.
Are there more options to get it loose without distroying the bold and drill it out?

https://i.ibb.co/qWzndqh/dpkA1IE.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)



Once you've done a few they get super easy.
What tends to happen is the bolt is slightly bent at the split. So just removing the nut and trying to hammer it out is effective trying to drive a bent bolt through a straight hole. Easiest method is to use a hacksaw and cut the bolt through at the split. Then thread the nut on and as you tighten it , it will pull the now cut threaded piece through. You will have to put washers or a spacer under the nut once you get to the shank of the bolt but it only takes a few tries. Once this is out, you now have a clear shot at punching out the remaining part of the bolt. As the bolt is no longer bent/pinched it will punch out easy, even if it's corroded. Your welcome.

[fukinavit]

Forgot to say in your case, drive the bolt back to flush first, then cut it.

[kilian tuning]

Hi,

Tanks alot for your input.
Thinking about it, is it possible to get it loose not at the pinchbold but at the top of the toparms?

https://i.ibb.co/R2R9mJQ/IMG-20210709-230016.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)

[Muggy]

I had one of those nasty things locked up on an A6 that I was working on...it was a NY state car with 200k, and everything was seized as you can imagine, especially suspension stuff. In any case, mine was so corroded, that it was truly impossible to get out without drilling. Schwaben makes a tool for just this purpose with a guide, drill bits, etc. that did the job, but it literally took me a few days off and on to not get too frustrated with the slow progress. Supposedly, you can use the tool with the suspension in place, but I couldn't imagine the stiff neck and shoulders that you'd get without having it out on the bench like I did. Plan on 5-6 hours of slow drilling once it's in a position to work on if it comes down to a drill-out solution. Definitely buy the tool as you'll never get close to drilling it out straight without it.

A few notes, you can leave the top bolt in if you take the entire unit out at the top hat, but you can't get the top arm bolts out without removing as they'll foul on the fender. Also, don't be tempted to try to pry the split open at all to try to free up or get penetrating oil in there...if you crack that, you'll be replacing it (ask me how I know on another older Audi project)...

Good luck and be patient!

[kilian tuning]

Used some heat and the bolt is coming out some distance.
Its turning very heavy and wont come out any further...
I can feel due to resistance the bolt is bend...

https://i.ibb.co/2Wm1d3W/20210712-094552.jpg (https://ibb.co/YPYFhBP)

[Muggy]

Good thing is that you aren't seized with corrosion...that's where my problem was for the drill out. I would turn the bolt back in and cut it off with a very thin kerf hacksaw/sawzall/dremel blade at the split. Remove the nut side which should come out easily...most likely bent right at the pinch point, so if you cut it there, a little help with a punch while turning the bolt head and it should come out. Again, don't be tempted to drive a wedge into that upright split, you will crack an ear and then be in for a full upright replacement.

Good luck with this!

[kilian tuning]

https://i.ibb.co/LdbKm3J/20210713-164804.jpg (https://ibb.co/yFG2trY)
https://i.ibb.co/V2vdKn8/20210713-164839.jpg (https://ibb.co/6g42d95)

[kevcp]

Make sure you apply a liberal amount of anti-seeze on the bolt upon re-assembly to prevent this in the future.

[kilian tuning]

Yes i will👍

[kilian tuning]

For the rear shocks, is it required to take off the diskbrake and caliper ?

[kilian tuning]

Uhhh, ok....
It looks like the top of the shock assembly is turned around 11 degrees as compared to the bottom mounting point.
Is that the same on all cars?


https://i.ibb.co/nwQzwmy/20210719-080943.jpg (https://ibb.co/6yDgywS)


https://i.ibb.co/XY2Y4GB/20210719-081015.jpg (https://ibb.co/PDmDYVp)

[kilian tuning]

I just noticed the rubber part in the top strut has kind of moved a bit outwards as can be seen in the pic.
Dont tell me the shock has to come out to re-align it?:(


https://i.ibb.co/VYC7pX9/IMG-20210729-213303.jpg (https://ibb.co/3mFDYtd)


I see when the old shock came out, the rubber part kind of is in the same position...


https://i.ibb.co/71mWv5x/IMG-20210729-220114.jpg (https://ibb.co/MC0Vn4y)

[Muggy]

Personally, I wouldn't worry about that...

[nistah]

Anyone can assist with where to source hydraulic line plugs to all 4 corners?

[hahnmgh63]

Are you talking about plugs for the DRC? If so I may have a set. I think my KWV3's came with plugs years ago and I probably threw them in my Toolbox as I ripped out all of the DRC hardlines.

[nistah]

Are you talking about plugs for the DRC? If so I may have a set. I think my KWV3's came with plugs years ago and I probably threw them in my Toolbox as I ripped out all of the DRC hardlines.

Yes hahnmgh63 I just confirmed with my mechanic this is what he needs will PM'ing you now to sort details thank you!

[nistah]

Are you talking about plugs for the DRC? If so I may have a set. I think my KWV3's came with plugs years ago and I probably threw them in my Toolbox as I ripped out all of the DRC hardlines.

Super huge thanks to hahnmgh63 & Muggy for the generous assistance and insight!!!

My mechanic has asked me to check here to ask about a few things he wants to know...he has the rear koni's set to the 2nd lower setting and is happy with that however with respect to the front he suggested he is not 100% happy with the springs as he is a perfectionist and suggested I grab springs from a C5 4.2 or S6 does this sound like a good direction to head in seeing as the Koni's were designed for A6 platform and we are using them for off label purposes in the RS6 suspension?

Also was asked which sway bar links are best to pair with the Hotchkiss setup?

Thank you everyone!

[IchBautAuto]

Super huge thanks to hahnmgh63 & Muggy for the generous assistance and insight!!!

My mechanic has asked me to check here to ask about a few things he wants to know...he has the rear koni's set to the 2nd lower setting and is happy with that however with respect to the front he suggested he is not 100% happy with the springs as he is a perfectionist and suggested I grab springs from a C5 4.2 or S6 does this sound like a good direction to head in seeing as the Koni's were designed for A6 platform and we are using them for off label purposes in the RS6 suspension?

Also was asked which sway bar links are best to pair with the Hotchkiss setup?

Thank you everyone!

You started the thread with this........

Koni part #'s
Front: 82-2516sport
Rear: 82-2526sport
and H&R lowering springs

and then said this....

Also planning to use the factory springs as I don't want to use the H&R kit because I don't want to lower the stance of the car too much, any risk with going with the the OEM factory springs matched up to Koni's once everything is apart? Does a new regular version of the springs exist that does not lower but provides new OEM or OEM like springs to match to the Koni's?

so I haven't quite got my head around which springs are on the car.

Personally I would ask for a specific reason why the mechanic wants to use other than genuine RS6 springs. I would guess that there is some difference between C5 4.2 springs and RS springs and I can't see the difference being in your favour.

[nistah]

You started the thread with this........

Koni part #'s
Front: 82-2516sport
Rear: 82-2526sport
and H&R lowering springs

and then said this....

Also planning to use the factory springs as I don't want to use the H&R kit because I don't want to lower the stance of the car too much, any risk with going with the the OEM factory springs matched up to Koni's once everything is apart? Does a new regular version of the springs exist that does not lower but provides new OEM or OEM like springs to match to the Koni's?

so I haven't quite got my head around which springs are on the car.

Personally I would ask for a specific reason why the mechanic wants to use other than genuine RS6 springs. I would guess that there is some difference between C5 4.2 springs and RS springs and I can't see the difference being in your favour.

IchBautAuto thanks for your reply, I was not very clear, to clarify the bold in my OP was copy & paste error, my plan worked out as I described above: Hotchkiss F&R sway bars, Koni Yellow's using the OEM springs at the moment along with some new HD control arms & I think it drives and sits very nicely now that I've got everything put back together. The mechanic advised me that he is a perfectionist and recommended I ask 2 questions on the forum:

1. Which sway links are best to use with the Hotchkiss F & R sway bar setup. My sources on Audizine are saying that https://store.034motorsport.com/spherical-rear-sway-bar-end-links-c5-audi-a6-s6-rs6-allroad-b5-b5-5-volkswagen-passat-4-motion.html
these sway links are a slight upgrade from stock and I was told that they are only necessary in the rear not front does that sound right?

2. Has anyone tried using S6 springs or C5 A6 4.2 springs with the Koni yellows, he said it's fine as it is however suggested I check this out to get the perfect ride dialed in.....

[IchBautAuto]

Still not sure exactly which springs you have on the car, I'm assuming RS6 springs, in which case I would keep those. It would be a downgrade using S6 or A6 springs. I used Bilstein dampers with RS6 springs and works very well for me. I wouldn't bother with any other combination (ie coilovers for the street) and whether Bilstein or Koni you'll get the same outcome.

Sway bar links. Standard front links are adequate, the rear normally need an upgrade to metal links. Now to the details, you'll get a sharper response with spherical joints, less so with poly and then less again with rubber. Downside, the spherical are noisier.

I have 034 links on the rear of my RS4 (25mm bar) and a Euro brand on the front (32mm bar). The 034 spherical joints can chop out quite quickly for some reason and they are not replaceable, it's a complete new link. The euro front links don't display that sort of wear so either way, they aren't a lifetime fit but my experience with the 034 items is life is shorter than some other options.

Wrapping with silicon tape makes a good boot and goes some way to extending the life from road grit.

[Muggy]

Got my 2Bennett coil overs installed...picked up from another forum member for a great price (thanks Chase!), super happy with these so far as they are more stable than the Bilstein and H&R sport spring combo, but not harsh on the ride. Looking back, for a static setup to replace the DRC, I should have kept the stock springs with the Bilsteins, but wanted a slightly lower look. The H&R's are decent, but about 1.5" drop and just a hair lower than my steep driveway really likes. That said, I'll be selling my gently used Bilstein setup shortly...about 2k miles on them in 2-2.5 years and all new at that time (struts, springs, and soft parts to assemble).

https://i.ibb.co/X5CfFcf/8-BD564-CD-CD1-B-4-C0-C-9-F97-615-A70-EC538-E.jpg (https://ibb.co/T0gDP9D)

https://i.ibb.co/wJPC3rj/C0-A986-D3-E0-E8-4692-B677-3-AABF7-F759-F2.jpg (https://ibb.co/6vTbVJL)

https://i.ibb.co/ck3FWvT/F0-E344-F0-982-B-4904-9396-0-F900633-F3-D7.jpg (https://ibb.co/gm9T07g)

https://i.ibb.co/qNfwDm5/544-DCE24-EB6-D-486-F-A661-2-F6702-B9-F09-A.jpg (https://ibb.co/c6Hdy2L)

[kilian tuning]

I have the same koni installed but without the adjustment kit.
Is it available seperate from the konis?

With the kindest regards.

[Muggy]

I have the same koni installed but without the adjustment kit.
Is it available seperate from the konis?

With the kindest regards.

These originally came from 2Bennett Motorsports as an assembled kit...not sure if they sell the parts separately or not. Certainly worth reaching out to them to ask...

https://2bennett.com

[nistah]

[QUOTE=IchBautAuto;295166]

Sway bar links. Standard front links are adequate, the rear normally need an upgrade to metal links. Now to the details, you'll get a sharper response with spherical joints, less so with poly and then less again with rubber. Downside, the spherical are noisier.

I have 034 links on the rear of my RS4 (25mm bar) and a Euro brand on the front (32mm bar). The 034 spherical joints can chop out quite quickly for some reason and they are not replaceable, it's a complete new link. The euro front links don't display that sort of wear so either way, they aren't a lifetime fit but my experience with the 034 items is life is shorter than some other options.
https://i.imgur.com/a9Ay3Q6.jpg
Wrapping with silicon tape makes a good boot and goes some way to extending the life from road grit.[/QUOTE

Thank you for your insight here the final suspension upgrade I am looking to install to complement my Koni Yellow Sports and OEM RS6 springs are the sway bar end links based off of your suggestion I decided to go with some Moog chassis part's known as the "The Problem Solver" it's part # K80699.....does anyone have any insight into how difficult/time consuming these are to swap for the OEM sway bar links which are currently on the car? TIA

[nistah]

Bumping this thread, my beast running great however recently started throwing the red exclamation point brake light on the dash, runs great just want to clear the code I suspect it's result of ditching the DRC for Koni Yellows and putting in the Hotchkiss sway bars.....

can anyone advise how to bypass the above mentioned brake light on the instrument cluster? Can it be done using VAG COM?

[nubcake]

Unrelated to DRC.
Low on fluid or something else amiss (bad ABS module?).
Check fluid & scan for codes.

[hahnmgh63]

Exactly what Nubcake said. DRC is completely mechanical system, no electrical hookups for any of it. As he said, check the Reservoir first, check the codes, double check the parking brake lever is seated off, run a scan.

[tsbpenguin]

Can anyone who went with Bilsteins w/ stock springs share what part #s you used for the shocks please? Looking to compare all the options. Has anyone (with either shock setup) found their factory springs to be too worn out and end up replacing them with a new factory set? Or at that point does it make more sense to get aftermarket springs, or a full coilover setup?

[AudiPilot]

Part numbers I used for B3s were 24-065085 and 24-065092. I used the stock springs without issue, weren’t too worn out for my needs. Ride height for me was identical to DRC, and worked for daily highway driving. I had F & R Hotchkis installed as well.

[tsbpenguin]

Part numbers I used for B3s were 24-065085 and 24-065092. I used the stock springs without issue, weren’t too worn out for my needs. Ride height for me was identical to DRC, and worked for daily highway driving. I had F & R Hotchkis installed as well.

Awesome, thanks for the info!!