Other work besides replace the power steering?

[lswing]

Eventually here, in the next months or year or so, probably going to have to replace my power steering column due to a leaking seal. So, what else should I do when we pull the engine? I'll look up any routine maintenance, but thinking of extras. Cheers!

Gut cats, certainly on DP's, what about the others? The ceramic coating does what?

Rebuild the turbos?

____________?

[SzymekCRX]

Vote for valve cover gaskets, cam tensioners' seals, inspect the two engine belts, inspect the IC hoses

[MaxRS6]

Consider the aluminum tube for the oil cooler and redo the seals in it. You can contact James at

James Bufkin [jamesbufkin@bufkinengineering.com]

[Chung]

I need to do the above two so those get my vote.

I think some have done turbo rebuilds, ceramic coatings, EGT sensors and O2 sensors.

[ThrillHouse]

At least check the post run coolant pump - its under the intake manifold and pretty labor intensive for something that should be trivial. Like everything with this car though... nothing is trivial! Other tip is to buy the relocation kit. Its got the pump you need but is a little cheaper than just the pump separate, don't ask me why but it is. Even if you aren't relocating it (we couldn't find a place and it directly feeds the turbos and in the interest of safety we put it in the stock location).

[hahnmgh63]

Things that can only be done (easy that is) when the engine is out. And please refresh us on your mileage. I had the turbos rebuilt (even though I only had 67K, but it is relatively cheap while the engine is out, Ceramic coated E. Manifolds ( cuts down greatly on engine compartment heat (lenghthens the life of rubber/plastic bits, more heat for the Turbos (miniscule)), EGT sensors, front O2's. Couple of small water hoses in the back. New seals on the rear Water manifold (only $10 worth for a piece of mind). All new connection seal/crush washers for the Turbos ($30 worth of parts).

[Elevens]

Don't know how many Miles on your car but mine had 68000mi on the clock and Mark suggested rebuilding the Turbo's. That was a big plus for me, as the seals were definitely on their way out. And the internals were replaced with upgraded components. So it was not money lost. My valve cover gaskets were also replaced as there was slight leaking on the passenger side. All 4 O2 sensors and Both EGT sensors were also replaced just for peace of mind. It all boils down to how much money you are willing to spend for preventative maintenance that requires engine pulls. I went the whole nine yards, Plugs, Ignition coils, N75 Valve, Catless Milltek downpipes and all Vacuum lines. Don't ask how much it cost but the warranty company did help a bit since it was a Transmission job. And even after all that, the Number 2 EGT sensor just started to report open or shorted to ground and a Motor Mount failure. Not blaming the car, just the components. What a pain in the ASS.....................

[lswing]

Thanks for all the input! I'm about to turn 90k, so getting up there a bit. Timing belt and alternator, plugs were done at 85k I think. Did the O2 sensors when we replaced the TC. Good to know about the ceramic coatings, will look into that also. I'll start to compile a list based on your input and cost, might as well fix it while we have the chance.

Any body hear of dropping the TC and trans instead of pulling the engine for the power steering column replace?

[hahnmgh63]

I was wondering if the Engine/Trans can be lowered or tilted down a little and then remove the Steering rack, or can it be pulled out the side by the steering tie rod?

[lswing]

Power steering is leaking pretty good now, I wonder if the cold weather is allowing the seal to leak more out. Put in about a quarter cup per week right now. Interesting enough, the steering has become smoother, certainly in tight turns, with the full and new fluid. Any other great ideas on slowing down the leak?

[SzymekCRX]

Power steering is leaking pretty good now, I wonder if the cold weather is allowing the seal to leak more out. Put in about a quarter cup per week right now. Interesting enough, the steering has become smoother, certainly in tight turns, with the full and new fluid. Any other great ideas on slowing down the leak?

Sure - low temperature makes 'things' smaller and thinner :) especially if there is a crack or a leak somewhere

[Chung]

I think my powersteering is also leaking. What is weird is I am not seeing a noticable difference in my reservoir but occasionally I have a pretty large puddle of what looks and feels like hydralic fluild. I say occasionally because sometimes when I park the car there is a puddle the next day and sometimes it is perfectly clean.

[lswing]

Hmm, might it be your DRC or something else? I've noticed my reservoir empty after a week, and can't find a damn thing on the ground, I assume it's just catching on parts and the pan at this point. There was a notice years ago to fill the PS fluid above the high mark, from Audi. Like I said, my steering is actually better now with putting in the fresh fluid each week, and topping it off above full.

[Chung]

Interesting. My fluid was above the high mark and I took a little out :).

It could be the DRC. The car goes in to have the gas gauge looked at again next Wednesday and I plan to have them check the DRC just in case. I had the new DRC put on in July.

[lswing]

Hopefully it's nothing much. Interesting your DRC was changed in July, is there a way to look up through VIN that it's been changed? I'm pretty sure mine has due to the ride height, but it's kind of rough and sucky at times.

[Chung]

You can call Audi to see when your recall was performed. My ride height didn't change and I don't think it should. If the height is different I think they made a mistake when tightining thing down.

[lswing]

Consider the aluminum tube for the oil cooler and redo the seals in it. You can contact James at

James Bufkin [jamesbufkin@bufkinengineering.com]

Got the nifty aluminum connector, nice piece! Now going to look at ETKA just to help my mech out, but do you know the part number or location of it? Back of the engine correct? Thanks!

[Chung]

This is for the A8 but I think it is close: http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/enginemechanical/oilcoolerremovalreinstall.html

[lswing]

Thanks, I think that is it. This might be also in ETKA...

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/30704832@N02/6755954905/" title="oilCoolerLine by lou_swing, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7015/6755954905_3f3478af0c_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="oilCoolerLine"></a>

[hahnmgh63]

Yep, that is it. Cheap little plastic part that costs you and engine pull (at least by the book) to replace a $10 part that could have been a lfetime $20 part and no engine pull.

[lswing]

Thanks man, I thought you might be the one to answer! Got my nice new metal part from James, goes on the list of to-do's when the engine comes out next month...

[Chung]

My car goes in Monday to have mine fixed. Only 8 hours of labor and I am sure a $1000 bill.

[lswing]

My car goes in Monday to have mine fixed. Only 8 hours of labor and I am sure a $1000 bill.

Ugh, to have the plastic oil cooler pipe fixed? Did you buy a metal one? If it's power steering your bill should be about $2,500....good luck with the repairs.

[Chung]

Just the plastic pipe and I do have the metal one. It has been leaking for a while but the leak has become more significant (and annoying).

[lswing]

Glad to hear you got the metal part. Are they going in the side, reading you can find a way without an engine pull, hope they keep the labor costs down for you, good luck!

[TozoM8]

The coolant pipe is 5-6 hours of work. The power steering rack comes out without engine removal, 5-6 hours also.

[lswing]

Tozo, have you pulled one of those racks? There has been a lot of discussion on here about not being able to get to the bolts because of a heat shield. Did you cut through or find another method?

[TozoM8]

It is tight, but once you remove the inner tie rod ends, PS lines and disconnect the steering shaft all you have left is the PS bolt from the top and the two DS bolt from the bottom. It is way easier if you do it on a lift.

[Chung]

Tozo that is because you are a machine. The shop quoted me 8 hours which I am sure they can do it in fewer but I don't have a lot of options.