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View Full Version : Lower control arm removal problem :(



SzymekCRX
November 14th, 2011, 18:46
Hi

I am in process or control arm replacement but I'm stuck and don't wknow how to proceed with my problem...

Can You have a look ?

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Do You have any idea how to remove this bolt ? It's quite long and it's currently blocked by chassis (frame).

Please help, I'm on jackstands :(

speedtrapped
November 14th, 2011, 19:30
doesnt sub frame drop? that bolt facing to floor, if u loosen that doesnt linkage drop? then u would be able to move bolt out.

SzymekCRX
November 14th, 2011, 19:40
doesnt sub frame drop? that bolt facing to floor, if u loosen that doesnt linkage drop? then u would be able to move bolt out.

I've been thinking about that but is it safe ? I don't want to drop engine on the floor :) Should I jack it before I loosen the bolt ? How long is this bolt ?

speedtrapped
November 14th, 2011, 19:52
u def need someone who has removed that bolt to chime in....I have seen my mechanic do it, on a lift, I do NOT think u need to support it, IIRC...But please wait till someone who has chimes in.

JSRS6
November 14th, 2011, 21:10
You can lower the rear of the subframe. I've done it. Your engine and trans will not drop to the ground. That being said, you should still have your floor jack under the engine/trans to control the amount of descent.

1 bad 03 rs6
November 14th, 2011, 21:38
You can lower the rear of the subframe. I've done it. Your engine and trans will not drop to the ground. That being said, you should still have your floor jack under the engine/trans to control the amount of descent.

Yep, done this before as well. Those bolts come out then let it down easy with jack under engine\trans.

SzymekCRX
November 14th, 2011, 21:47
Cool, thanks guys. Gonna try this tommorow :)

4everRS
November 15th, 2011, 04:42
LOL at the pic szymek. Nice! Had to do this too. As the guys said above, lower cradle, but use a jack. Safety first.

hahnmgh63
November 15th, 2011, 06:11
As everyone said but here is the caviot. Audi say that the 4 subframe mounting bolts are stretch bolts and should be replaced once you loosen them. With that said I had loosened mine twice and reused them in the past although this time I replaced all 4 while my engine/tranny was out. I would reuse them in your case. Just loosen them and drop the rear of the subframe enough to get the A-Arm bolts out but don't remove the subframe bolts all the way.

Brav
November 15th, 2011, 22:22
I have done this.. you need to drop the subframe.. annoying design! I had a really long jack that goes up 6 feet, and was on a lift.

SzymekCRX
November 18th, 2011, 17:23
Thank You for all the replies. I still need help with frame lowering procedure :( I don't know how to do it.

I just loosen bolts #2 & #5 (only on one side !!). It was no-go. Should I go for #3 as well when doing one side ? (I didn't know about bolt #3 in my garage so that can be the problem of non-lowering subframe). What say You :) ?

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hahnmgh63
November 18th, 2011, 18:38
Remove #1 and loosen #2 don't touch #3 and the rubber mounts will have enough play where you won't even need to loosen #5. You only need to lower the rear of the subframe about 1/2~1" to get the A-Arm bolts out.

SzymekCRX
November 18th, 2011, 20:16
Remove #1 and loosen #2 don't touch #3 and the rubber mounts will have enough play where you won't even need to loosen #5. You only need to lower the rear of the subframe about 1/2~1" to get the A-Arm bolts out.

I did that only to #2 only on ONE side. I assume that was the problem and the subframe itself was held by the other #2.

Thanks, will try tommorow :)

SzymekCRX
November 19th, 2011, 20:39
Lowered, removed, replaced lower arms :)

Unfortunately the old passenger side lower arm is stuck in the wheel bearing housing. Darn.

Even this tool didn't help. Need to sleep it over :)

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JSRS6
November 19th, 2011, 22:37
Try a pickle fork. Worked for me, had the same issue when I changed mine out.

SzymekCRX
November 28th, 2011, 18:27
250$ for 2,5hrs aligment at the dealer. What are the US prices ?

An ordinary shop (although a branded one) wanted just 50$ but they realised that they didn't have tools to set the front camber

Brav
November 28th, 2011, 18:29
its expensive. I can get my car corner-balanced and aligned for that amount..

4everRS
November 28th, 2011, 18:43
Had it done for $89 at a non audi dealership.

SzymekCRX
November 28th, 2011, 18:54
Had it done for $89 at a non audi dealership.

Yeah, now I know they just were afraid of handling my RS6 (too exotic for them) but according to my manual it really nothing special (literally use a crowbar for aligment :D).

The knowledge is money :)