DIY: valve cover gasket replacement, cam tensioner gasket

[SzymekCRX]

Hi

This is my first DIY attempt so I assume it may be not godd as the others are :)

This DIY is about driver's side valve cover gasket replacement combined with cam tensioner gasket replacement.

Tools and materials needed:

- valve cover gasket (ie. REINZ 15-34292-01)
- optional - cam tensioner gasket ELRING EL863590 VAG 058 198 217
- degreaser
- optional - VAG tool 3366 for cam chain compression
- high temp silicone (sealant)

(I assume that Your airbox is removed)

Let's go:1. Pop the hood
2. Unscrew ignition coils (4 of them) and leave them on the instake manifold
3. Detach PRV (pancake valve) and unscrew PCV metal line that is mounder to the valve cover
4. Unscrew all 12 bolts in the correct order (like on my picture)
5. Remove the cover
6. Remove old gasket from the cover and from the engine (using degreaser, don't scratch !)
7. If not replacing cam gasket go to 13
8. Install 3366 tool and compress the tensioner in order to free the chain a little bit
9. Remove 4 torx bolts
10. Lift tensioner as much as You can and remove old metal gasket as weel as half moon gasket from under it
11. Clean any leftovers if possible (not too much space to operate :()
11. Replace gaskets, make sure they're on right positions !
12. Tighten bolts
13. Install new valve cover gasket, make sure it is on place and fills all the holes as it should. Install ignition spark sealing rings
14. Apply some sealant along the gasket
15. Carefully install the cover, do a visual inspection that everything seems to be ok before tightening screws
16. Tighten bolts in the same order as before
17. Install spark plugs
18. Mount PCV

Done

[4everRS]

nice writeup. Thanks. Now we will wait for passenger side DIY from you !!

[speedtrapped]

^^^^^ X2....Nice write up, but I plan on installing some pretty PC VC's with new seals, and the passenger side can be done, but would love to see some pics of process, ie...SAI bolts location, how far does the coolant pipe have to be nudged for the VC to clear?...

TYVM for this DIY

[Brav]

Thanks.. so whats a pancake valve?

[SzymekCRX]

This is it (picture and operation description) :)

11876
11877

[ben916]

do you mean diverter valve???

[speedtrapped]

Ben I think that's a pancake valve, pcv circuit...Brav asked

[JSRS6]

Nope

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/ae31c2d5.jpg

[JSRS6]

Ben I think that's a pancake valve, pcv circuit...Brav asked

Yup45678

[speedtrapped]

is that your engine josh?....super clean....damn NE shore salt air, my intake manifold has the crusties...

[JSRS6]

No, that's the pic that dave hall posted a long time ago for the timing belt service. I just cropped it and circled the pcv valve.

[speedtrapped]

ahhh, not suprised, u could eat off the underside of Dave's car

[Brav]

so pancake valve IS the PCV valve.. makes sense, just never heard it called by that name. But it seems there is more than one valve in discussion.. PRV and PCV (and pancake). Methinks these are all one and the same however.

[SzymekCRX]

so pancake valve IS the PCV valve.. makes sense, just never heard it called by that name. But it seems there is more than one valve in discussion.. PRV and PCV (and pancake). Methinks these are all one and the same however.

No, the PCV valve is something else !

Pancakes are PRVs !

[4everRS]

PCV = positive crankcase ventalation.

[Brav]

Well, JSRS6 said the circled pic was a PCV, so I assumed..

So Pancake/PRV valve feeds fresh air to PCV and then to manifold when off boost.. and shuts closed when on boost. Off boost, it uses outside air from intake pipe to cycle through valve cover and block, and push it into the intake manifold to clear out gas, but is not actually metered (comes in behind the turbos and MAF, etc). But as I read, its similar to having a small air leak in the intake tract. Which will actually lean out the mixture.

Then when on boost, the PCV shuts off flow to the manifold, and the PVR re routes air from valve/block area to INTAKE tract, in front of the MAF and turbos.. where it is then meterd?

Is my understanding correct?

I am guessing a faulty system could lead to lean codes (as I am getting)? IS this emissions related or sludge prevention related? Makes me want to rip it all out.

[JSRS6]

My bad, I confused myself. Too...many...acronyms :confused:

[Brav]

My bad, I confused myself. Too...many...acronyms :confused:

Hey I was right there with ya.

[SzymekCRX]

I've just got back from my test ride. I'm going to explain it tommorow :)

[Brav]

I hope with logs..

[SzymekCRX]

I hope with logs..

Sorry Brav I didn't forget about You but we have a shitty wet weather and I cannot do any major WOT test now :(

[SzymekCRX]

Hey I was right there with ya.


11879

This is what I've managed to draw during my lunchbreak.

Basically what we have here is pure PCV circuit consisting of two PRV (pressure regulating valves) and bleeder valve itself (called PCV valve in general !).

The bleeder valve is a one way valve so during boost it is sealed by the IM pressure and blowby gasses are driven back to the intake (right after MAFs but before turbines).

[speedtrapped]

So, I am going to tackle the dreaded passanger side(drivers as well) VC removal and swap. When I was having my engines swapped, I had my mechanic send out the VC for PC. There was confusion, and painter painted bright red(Honda) hi temp. I was too impatient to wait, and they were installed. After Stephens loss, I p/u the proper Audi Red PC VC's from Dion, they are gorgeaus. I have new seals, waiting on new plugs(all the trouble last month with rich/lean, leaking injectors) and need to pu some black RTV. I will take plenty of pics on both sides.

[Brav]

good luck and take pics for us! I will be doing it sooner than later.

[speedtrapped]

Swapped the VC on driver side last night. The PC version looks awesome...Took about an hour, i changed plugs as well.
The passenger side is def more complicated, I started but I have about 1-2 hours more. I only took a pic of driver side done(its very easy) and passengerside started-I will take pics of this side.
2 questions, the metal tube that runs 90 degrees across VC, is that a pcv line as well? And do I need to seperate the the rubber coolant line from the metal pipe, in order to tweak it away from the VC?(aside from remove the bolts that hold the pipe into the head)

[SzymekCRX]

Swapped the VC on driver side last night. The PC version looks awesome...Took about an hour, i changed plugs as well.
The passenger side is def more complicated, I started but I have about 1-2 hours more. I only took a pic of driver side done(its very easy) and passengerside started-I will take pics of this side.
2 questions, the metal tube that runs 90 degrees across VC, is that a pcv line as well? And do I need to seperate the the rubber coolant line from the metal pipe, in order to tweak it away from the VC?(aside from remove the bolts that hold the pipe into the head)

They're just PCV lines that go directly to the intake (these metal pipes are screwed to the intake - left & right just after MAFs). You can play with them - just make sure they're tight and sealed :)

[speedtrapped]

how about coolant pipe, cold engine, remove rubber hose connection? If so i assume I will lose some coolant. stupid engineering design.

[SzymekCRX]

how about coolant pipe, cold engine, remove rubber hose connection? If so i assume I will lose some coolant. stupid engineering design.

Well, not so stupid :) The cooling system has to be flooded to prevent any air inside it. If You want to do it the clean way just empty the cooland using the radiator dump valve/screw, mess with these lines that You want to change and fill the system again. What do You want to do with that line ? It looks that everything is on place in Your picture.

[speedtrapped]

the second pic sans coil packs, is the yet to be removed old passenger side VC(the colors look similiar, but are slightly diff and the new VC are PC) I still have to manipulate the PCV lines out, and Josh just told me, removing the the 2 hex bolts that hold coolant pipe doesnt have to be taken apart, just pried away carefully to get the VC on and off. and I have to figure a way to get the 1 bolt removed on the SAI and one loosened so I can rotate the SAI out of the way....once thats done, easy peasy...I hope

[hahnmgh63]

As SzymekCRX said those are just Crankcase ventilation pipes (inline in each of those pipes is where I have my Catch cans). They are not pressurized (well, sometimes just a little above ambient but not boosted) pipes so they don't have to have a super tight seal as a boost pipe.

[speedtrapped]

I still have yet to add my catch cans, buy my PCV lines are clean....off topic, I had driverside pancake valve assembly removed, I could blow thru both sides??? is it shot? or does the valve work when there is a vacuum present

[SzymekCRX]

As SzymekCRX said those are just Crankcase ventilation pipes (inline in each of those pipes is where I have my Catch cans). They are not pressurized (well, sometimes just a little above ambient but not boosted) pipes so they don't have to have a super tight seal as a boost pipe.

Exactly - no boost, because they're connectd right BEFORE the turbo

[SzymekCRX]

I still have yet to add my catch cans, buy my PCV lines are clean....off topic, I had driverside pancake valve assembly removed, I could blow thru both sides??? is it shot? or does the valve work when there is a vacuum present

Yes, they're 'suckable' and 'blowable' in both directions. However to properly test them just block one side with your palm and suck :D You should hear the diaphragm click.

[speedtrapped]

lol.....cue the...nevermind, ok I will try that out.

[SzymekCRX]

You can consider them OK when You can let air trough them and they hold pressure when You clog one side and blow.

[4everRS]

hehehe
lol.....cue the...nevermind, ok I will try that out.

Regarding the VC removal on the pass side, I remember yokust saying that the coolant pipe needs to be "flexed" out of the way to slide the cover out. Like Josh said, I don't remember anything about the screws needing to be removed.

[RS6Finn]

I'm replacing the VC gasket and cam tensioner gasket on both sides as both are leaking bad. Had drivers side done without problems but now wondering how to do the passenger side cam tensioner gasket. There's combination valve (see pic) that's on the way to remove the tensioner. There's not much room to take it off so my question is do you need to take it off or can it be somehow done without removing? VC is already off.
12956

[mdegracia]

Yup, just loosen the tensioner housing just enough to slide out the old one and the new goes in the same...just takes some finessing!

[RS6Finn]

Thanks but problem is that the combination valve is right on top of one tensioner bolt. I don't think I can fit any tool to unscrew the bolt.

[Eagle]

Did you ever finished ok the project of changing the gaskets? I am trying to do the same and I'm looking for any heads up advise. Thanks.

[RS6Finn]

I did get it done, but it was already few years ago so can't remember exactly how. I don't think there was anything special, just trying with different tools.

[Eagle]

It seemed simple for the most part besides the drivers side due to the placement of coolant pipe of vc. however anything about this engine at first glance is everything but simple until you start taking it apart. Do you still own the car ?

[RS6Finn]

Yes I still have the car

[Eagle]

Great. Do you have any experiences with the infamous transmition? My torque converter code has come up and the engine light stays on for a while and turns off by itself and stay off for a while just to come back on again and repeat cycle. There is no slippage or signs of malfunctions by the transmition. I continue to drive but not sure if it hurts or not.

[RS6Finn]

Actually I bought my car with malfunctioning transmission and I had it rebuild right away. There was problem with shifting but I didn't inspect it any further, just had it rebuild.

[Aronis]

Actually I bought my car with malfunctioning transmission and I had it rebuild right away. There was problem with shifting but I didn't inspect it any further, just had it rebuild.

What did that run you? If you don't mind telling....
thank you,

Mike

[mbagge01]

I have been in the process of trying to replace the passenger side valve cover gasket and trying to figure out how to loosen the front bolt that holds the coolant pipe above the exhaust manifold so that I can squeeze the valve cover out. Does anyone know what the bolt size is holding the coolant pipe in and what socket size I need as I cannot see the face of the bolt and it is really hard to get to. Is it possible to loosen the fuel rail and then pull the valve cover up and out instead.

[Muggy]

I remember exactly which bolt you are talking about...forgot to put that pipe in when I did my refresh and had to fight with that one to get it in once the motor was in the car. If I remember correctly, it's a 5mm hex socket head bolt. I used a 1/4 drive mini socket with an open head that I could insert the 5mm hex bit into as it's very close down there. Should basically be the same bolt that holds your PVC hard pipes to the VC on that side (or at least mine was).

Something like this....

https://www.griotsgarage.com/usag-mini-31-piece-bit-ratchet-set-1-4-drive/

I can't comment on getting the VC out without the fuel rail as I did mine when the motor was out of the car...

Actually, brain cramp...the pipe that you need to move is the one that wraps around from the back of the heads...but still the same bolt that I checked on size...

[mbagge01]

I looked up the bolt in etka and it listed it as an M8 socket bolt which I believe equals an 6mm Allen if I am not mistaken. I was going to get a long stubby Allen wrench and see if I can get to it. Also when I did my driver's side gasket, the cam chain tensioner tool broke off where the screw goes into the hole and I had to drill it out which now made a bigger hole in the cam tensioner. I am assuming that because of this, I need to replace the entire tensioner to do the gaskets under the tensioner.

[mbagge01]

I actually looked up some pictures online of the bolt which looks like it might be a star torx size but not sure if it is T40 or T45. Anyone by chance have their engine out for work and could verify that for me. Would be much appreciated

[Muggy]

Just did a double check on mine...you are correct, it is a 6mm hex socket bolt. Mine is easier to get to as I've removed all of the secondary radiator system, getting rid of some of the piping that is in the way there.

For your tensioner, I can't answer that right off 100%....but the answer is most likely yes.

[mbagge01]

I have been working for hours to try and loosen the coolant pipe bolt with no luck and think it might be stripped. I am going to get some sockets for strip bolts to see if I can get it out. My last thought is to see if I can get a small Dremel and cut the bracket off the screw to loosen it. Other than that, I am not sure if I have any other options as I won't be able to line up the old gasket back on the valve cover since I have already lifted it off. From what I read, if nothing else works, I might be stuck with an engine pull.

[Muggy]

Since it connects to the back of the heads, you may be "ok" to cut the bracket as it is just a support for the long pipe around the front...you will need to bend it a bit to get the VC out if/when you do get the bolt out or bracket cut.

Possibly get a pair of locking needle nose pliers on the head of the socket bolt? Torque is minimal on it (or at least should be)...

[mbagge01]

I don't know why my bolt is so seized up. I have been hitting it with penetrating sprays. I am hoping that the extractor sockets will get a grip to loosen it. I have thought about using a vise grip but just trying to figure the right angle to place it.

[mbagge01]

As an update, I was able to finally get the bolt out after getting and angled drill attachment, drill a hole into the screw and then using an extractor bolt. One I did that and got the screw out, it was smooth sailing get the valve cover off and back on with flexing the coolant pipe. Now I am not sure if I have the fuel injectors seated all the way back in. Is there a way to tell. I did not put new Orings on as I would have needed a lot more work to get the whole rail out to do that.

[Muggy]

Glad to hear that you got it done...For the injectors, no way to tell really until you get some pressure on them. I did new o-rings on mine when I pulled the rail for the intake removal to do the suction jet pump and didn't have any issues seating them.

I did do a set on my son's Toyota PU and had some issues with them leaking the first time around due to some of the o-rings getting cut just a little bit when seating, but that seems to be a common issue on those as they were leaking already when he got the truck. Just use your common sense and nose...you'll smell the fuel vapors if they are leaking once under pressure, but probably won't see any fuel leakage unless it's major.

[hahnmgh63]

This guy is in Idaho and has all of the seals you need for a great price.
https://www.mrinjectorparts.com/store/c1/Featured_Products.html

[mbagge01]

I noticed that he also does cleaning and rebuilds of injectors. Given how old our cars are, is it ever recommend after a certain timeframe to get injectors cleaned.

[hahnmgh63]

I would guess with the crappy Ethanol mixture gas we have it would cause our injectors to wear out early. A check of the spray pattern would be good but if there is pitting from the Ethanol I'm not sure they can repair that, probably a replacement is in order. I'm lucky that I have an Ethanol free 92 Octane (R+M/2 for our Euro guys, not just MON so it's around 98MON) about 8mi away. And now with the higher prices it is not as wide of a margin above Ethanol premium anymore. I can say the car overall runs better and after swapping I get a whole 1/2mpg better.

[mbagge01]

I noticed that the valve cover set comes with a half blue moon gasket but it does not look like it is used anywhere unless I am wrong. I know there is one placed under the cam tensioner bracket but it also comes with it's own half moon gasket.

[Muggy]

Yeah, you'll probably get some duplicates of stuff like this with gasket kits. Each manufacturer decides what they want to put in there...some aftermarket metal gaskets for under the tensioner assembly may not include the half moon, but the OEM does for sure.

[hahnmgh63]

https://www.motormanfuelinjection.com/fuel_injector_components/bosch-fuel-injector-service-kit-ev6.html

[cmore]

I am having a hell of a time getting the rear 5mm allen head bolt out from the back side of the passenger coolant pipe. I can't get anything to fit down there. I wish they made allen keys that were longer on the shorter side.

Any pro tips on what you used to get that rear bolt loose?

[hahnmgh63]

Maybe a ball socket Allen so you can still get in there at a slight angle, I'm assuming the one you are having a problem with is the inner bolt.

[cmore]

Yeah, the bolt closer to the firewall. I have a solution and I should have it out tomorrow. Also, I put a camera down there and it's a T-40 torx bolt. The front one was a Allen bolt and rear torx. I'm glad I got a photo before I stripped it out.

Here's my solution:

EZRED 4S04 Micro Combo Dual Ratchet Socket with 1/4" Square Drive & Magnetic Bit Drive https://a.co/d/1mHEsEc

Metric Allen Wrench Drill Bit Set (Premium 12pc Complete SAE Set) /w Storage Case and Bit Holder - 1.5mm - 10mm 1/4in Hex Shank Magnetic Bit Set - The GIFD Collection-S2 Steel Long 2in Drive Heads https://a.co/d/6C7ECMQ

Or

Torx Head Drill Bit Set (Premium 12pc Set w/Storage Case) T6 - T55 1/4in Hex Shank Magnetic Star Security Kit - The GIFD Collection Long 2inch Torx Key Bits S2 Steel for Drills and Impact Drivers https://a.co/d/5OiYLwP

I'll update after I get the bolt out.

[hahnmgh63]

No that I think about it all 4 of mine were Allen bolts.

[cmore]

Does anyone k know if it's possible to reach the rear coolant pipe bolt from under the car? I can't get a good photo of it with my phone to be 100% it is a torx head.

5mm Allen feels loose, 6mm Allen won't fit, 40 torx feels like it fits. Hmmm

[hahnmgh63]

I don't think you can get at it from underneath, maybe with a 6spd conversion. What you might do is lower the whole subframe. I'd loosen the front bolts about 1/2" and then drop the rear bolts maybe a full 1" that should give you a lot more room to get in there.

[cmore]

All of this work just to get a bolt out to be able to replace the valve cover gasket.

[mbagge01]

You do not need to remove the rear coolant line bolt to get the valve cover off. You only need to remove the front one and the pipe can flex enough to get it out. What I also had to do was loosen the bolts on the bracket that holds the. Sai combi valve and I had no problem getting the valve cover off which I just did recently.

[cmore]

You do not need to remove the rear coolant line bolt to get the valve cover off. You only need to remove the front one and the pipe can flex enough to get it out. What I also had to do was loosen the bolts on the bracket that holds the. Sai combi valve and I had no problem getting the valve cover off which I just did recently.

Did you flex the coolant pipe with your hands or did you pry it with something to get it out of the way to remove it?

[hahnmgh63]

Mbagge01, he's talking about where that rear coolant pipe curves around the back of the engine and comes up the right side of the valve cover. I can't remember if you can pivot the valve cover up and out but I thought somebody had done it before. I only removed mine after engine removal so I'm sure I had that rear coolant pipe off. cmore, I take it you've already tried to pivot the valve cover out from under the coolant pipe?

[P1054]

If I remember right, it needs to be flexed out an inch or so. It was slightly more than I could do with my hands, so I used a breaker bar inserted into the front opening of the coolant pipe. That gave me the leverage to flex it just enough to get the valve cover off and back on again.

This was with the coolant pipe side bolt removed and the rear bolt still installed.

Later, when I had the engine out for my six speed conversion, I removed the coolant pipe completely to replace the seals. Having done that with the engine out, I’m glad I didn’t fully remove it to remove the valve covers. It would be very difficult to reinstall with the engine still in the car.

[mbagge01]

I am assuming that you are talking about the black plastic coolant pipe that runs under the valve cover on the right side. If so, yes you just need to remove the front bolt and you only need to flex it back about an inch or so with you hand and the valve cover will slide up and past it. I just did this about a month ago. As I mentioned also, I loosened the bolts holding the combi valve to make it easier to have more room to get the valve cover off

[hahnmgh63]

The Coolant line on the right side is definitely metal and not too flexible.

[mbagge01]

hahnmgh63 is correct it is metal, not plastic. The part number is 077121071bt. It pipe itself does not bend but it will flex away from the valve cover when he front bolt is removed and it is enough to get the valve cover off.

[CornersWell]

All,

I'm being told by my indy that to replace the valve cover gaskets, the "engine has to be dropped", because, "it's a V8." I simply can't believe that. WTF? Am I going crazy?

CW

[nubcake]

Driver side is easy & straightforward.
Passenger side is a bit tricky, but definitely doable.

Your mechanic just doesn't want to deal with it.

[fbatwork]

Driver side is easy & straightforward.
Passenger side is a bit tricky, but definitely doable.

Your mechanic just doesn't want to deal with it.

What Nubcake said - absolutely is doable...