spacers on the stock wheels

[kismetcapitan]

the RS6 has a very nice stance to begin with, but I do like to bring the wheels out nearly flush with the fenders (never PAST, don't want that ghetto look). How much spacer can I put on the stock wheels to give it a more aggressive appearance, without going too far, getting tire rub, etc?

[Jimmy]

Up to 12 mms is safe IMO; I measured from the inner fender lip to the tire on mine (I was thinking the same thing myself at one point) to get an idea on clearances.

You might be able to go a bit thicker depending on the shape of your tires sidewalls. You can also roll the inner fenders and gain a few more mm's too....or just get 9" wide rims with a lower offset.

[JSRS6]

I would say 10 max. I have thought about it as well. I would do a 7 or 8, so you get the hub seat.

[kismetcapitan]

anyone ever measure the height of the hub seat? +10mm, I'm going to have to get new bolts - who makes the best bolts? That's one area I'd prefer not to skimp on...

[Jimmy]

http://www.radusadirect.com/ This place is good for bolts.

[kismetcapitan]

ok, pulled the trigger on 10mm hubcentrics. If the hub seat is more than 10mm, they won't work. Thought about buying hyper-expensive German spacers, but went with basic generic aluminum milled units. So long as you have a good milling machine, a spacer is a spacer. Spacers are a tuning tool with Skylines, and I have spacer sets from 5mm up to 35mm. At first I was ordering USA-made units, but then started buying them locally from a Korean machinist. He could do any wheel PCD and could do hubcentrics with different hub seat and wheel hub diameters, all made to order with a 24 hour turnaround. Cheap, too. They were just as precise in fitment as what I'd been ordering before. So hopefully these eBay units work out.

Also hope they don't go too far out!! The rear wheels definitely sit inboard a bit too much, but the fronts are pretty far out, and dunno if it's just my car, but has noticeable camber. Haven't lowered my car...yet.

[kismetcapitan]

I installed 10mm spacers, using RAD two-piece 40.5mm bolts. Everything fit fine and there are no issues with the bolt length. So my findings in putting spacers on stock wheels at stock ride height (with DRC):

- bolts must be ball-seat, R13.
- 10mm looks to be about the maximum you'd want to go on the front. The rear can take a bit more; maybe 12mm. Having seen about a zillion RS6 pictures, it did appear to me that the rears can take a bigger spacer than the front. They can.
- a very odd side effect - when parking, I can turn the wheel further and now have a tighter turning radius. The steering feels slightly lighter as well. I've never noticed such effects with spacers before.
- I'd call this an easy and must-do upgrade - it really improves the stance and appearance.

[JSRS6]

Pics or it didn't happen. Lol

[kismetcapitan]

right, so here's the car:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/tobereeno/file-6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/tobereeno/file-7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/tobereeno/file-11.jpg

and pics of the new wheel offset:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/tobereeno/file-8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/tobereeno/file-14.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/tobereeno/file-10.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/tobereeno/file-16.jpg

the spacer:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/tobereeno/file-13.jpg

and while the wheels were off, I applied some very nice decals over the faded originals, then sprayed a clearcoat over them:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/tobereeno/file-12.jpg

H&R lowering springs and 18% tint all around are scheduled for next week...

[JSRS6]

How do you like your conti dws's? Stance looks good!

[4everRS]

Where'd you get the decals. Are they ok for the high temps?

[Spidercat]

Nice job.
Stance is right on--I wouldn't go out any further.
Wait and see how it sits post-H&R lowering springs.

[kismetcapitan]

I got these: RS Decals (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-RS-large-brake-decal-Chrome-Silver-Red-x4-/200420700841?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2eaa0132a9#ht_1506wt_1041)

They fit exactly over the stock silkscreening. They're reportedly good for up to 350 degrees. I caught some flak for putting them on my front doors, but part of what I was doing was testing the durability of the sticker; that being said, I like it, so they're staying :)

[Spidercat]

Those are very durable decals. You'll be happy with them.
I've had them for a couple years and they still look good. No peeling, no fading.

[Spidercat]

the spacer:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/tobereeno/file-13.jpg


H&R lowering springs and 18% tint all around are scheduled for next week...

Didn't notice this the first time around, but are these are 135 mm hub face diameter?
Our hubs are 150 mm diameter.

BTW, nice call evening out the tint. My personal taste is even tint all around (no darker tint on the back windows) rather than what appears to be on the car now (unless your front window was down).
But, like I always say, if you buy the car, you make the call.

One more thing, I assume you inherited that little bit of curb rash. FWIW, Plasti-cote WP-101 silver for alloy wheels matches the stock wheels exactly. Mine were perfect until I put them on my wife's car :doh:
A little progressive sanding, primer, this paint, then clear coat- I can't even tell from a normal distance.

[Amar]

I had some 15mm Eibach ones lying around so tried them on my plus, going to go down to 10 though

http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv19/AmarS8/30347b8c.jpg
http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv19/AmarS8/9ccf0a4f.jpg
http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv19/AmarS8/336303c2.jpg
http://i665.photobucket.com/albums/vv19/AmarS8/d683cf51.jpg

[kismetcapitan]

Didn't notice this the first time around, but are these are 135 mm hub face diameter?
Our hubs are 150 mm diameter.

BTW, nice call evening out the tint. My personal taste is even tint all around (no darker tint on the back windows) rather than what appears to be on the car now (unless your front window was down).
But, like I always say, if you buy the car, you make the call.

One more thing, I assume you inherited that little bit of curb rash. FWIW, Plasti-cote WP-101 silver for alloy wheels matches the stock wheels exactly. Mine were perfect until I put them on my wife's car :doh:
A little progressive sanding, primer, this paint, then clear coat- I can't even tell from a normal distance.

thanks for the hint on the wheel curbing. I generally can't be bothered by wheel rash, but part of that was the assumption that I'd have to get the wheel completely refurbished. Sandpaper and spray paint I can do :)

The car came tinted that way, and it's been driving me nuts. I'll put up pics with 18% tint all around.

I did notice the short face diameter, only when I took this pic though. Annoying, and hopefully it won't cause problems.

I have the new bolts torqued to 90lb/ft, same as stock spec. I wonder if with the longer bolts if I need to adjust that torque...?

[Spidercat]

thanks for the hint on the wheel curbing. I generally can't be bothered by wheel rash, but part of that was the assumption that I'd have to get the wheel completely refurbished. Sandpaper and spray paint I can do :)

The car came tinted that way, and it's been driving me nuts. I'll put up pics with 18% tint all around.

I did notice the short face diameter, only when I took this pic though. Annoying, and hopefully it won't cause problems.

I have the new bolts torqued to 90lb/ft, same as stock spec. I wonder if with the longer bolts if I need to adjust that torque...?

Even if it's not "perfect," it still looks better than a rash anyday. Refurbishing can get a little pricey, especially with added opportunity costs of your personal time, etc. and the fact that you'll probably be going aftermarket soon anyway. Small area like that you could knock out in an evening easy. Feathering the edges nicely would be the only possible "tricky" part. Wet sanding w/1000+ grit and you'll never notice.

I don't think the torque settings would change. That said, I always torque mine to 94 ft-lbs, since my torque wrench is +/- 5%. I'd rather be a little plus for safety. Probably not going to stretch the threads too much, especially considering the multitudes of fucktards out there with gorilla hands and airwrenches that overtoque all day long with no major problems.

[kismetcapitan]

here's the car with 18% tint. unfortunately, yet another garage backed out of installing my H&R springs due to the DRC, so that didn't happen today as scheduled :(
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v191/tobereeno/file-17.jpg

the tint goes a long way towards improving the appearance of the car in Avus Silver, of that there is no doubt!

[Amar]

Why won't they do it because of the DRC?

[Spidercat]

Because they are chicken shits!

I had 4 good suspension/performance shops that I trust turn me down, some do Audi/VW exclusively.

-The party line was that they couldn't "guarantee" that they could do it w/o disconnecting the DRC, and once it was reconnected, there was no guarantee that it wouldn't have to be re-pressurized. Also, there was concern that they may rupture a high pressure line while doing it.

If you had a buddy with a spring compressor, you could do it without a problem-- a few write-ups on here of DIYs--just have to be careful and take your time. Basically need to contort a little. (If you are interested, pm me and I'll send you some hints and tips that somebody gave me who did it themselves). Or I could just post it here...give me a minute.
The Audi tech was able to do it when my "new" DRC was done, but the dealer had a thing about "after market" parts (TUV certification be damned!), so I eventually got rid of them. I really wanted to use them, since my DRC held up well and I was happy with it aside from the stupid ride height issue.

Worse case, I'd shop around for an Audi dealer who will do it. One or two on the forum had their dealers do it w/o a problem.

[kismetcapitan]

yep, they don't want to "risk" it. The shock strut can be unbolted, but it's tethered by the DRC hose which only has a couple inches of slack so far as I can tell. I tried to explain - unbolt, lower the strut to clear the fender, pivot it out, throw on a spring compressor, swap springs, replace...they were very kind about it but were clear that it was the hose that was the gamestopper. If I had shown up with coilovers, or if the car had conventional struts, no problem.

Springs only literally costs a tenth of proper coilovers, but the rub is getting someone to do it!

I wonder just how hard this could be...?

[Spidercat]

Re: H&R springs

I did it myself on a jack

Get or Buy then return:
Air compressor
Air Ratched
Air Impact gun (all that saves time)
Set of wrenches for 14,16,17,18, 19mm
2nd floor jack (it will help to push upwards the arm in the back)
Hummer
Crowbar or smth similar
Powerbuilt spring compressor

If you have atleast half of tools, its worth a try, otherwise you might better give it to mechanic, cause you'll spend what they charge for the labor.
Its actually not that hard especially if you do it on the rack, same job as to change the shocks. except they have to use small spring compressor. Let me know if you still want to do it.



Back is simple. Just drop lower arm and unscrew two bolts on top that hold a shock, it will fall down. place smth to hold it. To remove spring unscrew one top bolt. Change the springs and done.

Front I had to fight a little. cause I couldnt drop lower arm. And I had to use powerbuilt spring compressor (google it). other than that, remove top three bolt at the hood area, one on a lower control arm. compress it and move to the side to have room to remove spring. I kept upper arms on a casing.


The above was sent to me via pm-- original author feel free to chime in...