Airbox bolt size

[Chung]

Does anyone know the bolts that are on the left and right side of the airbox? Mine are missing and I would like to get them replaced as I track down my MAF issues.

Thanks,

[hahnmgh63]

Chung, mine have a rubber isolated stud (two short studs with the flexible rubber isolated mounting in the middle) and they are connected to the aircleaner with M6 nuts (10mm wrench head). Just got home last night and got your PM. Did you ever figure out the problem with the car? Their are two MAF sensors but I assume from this post you already got your aircleaner off to discover this. I have used a touch of Silicone grease on the Turbo Inlet pipe O-rings that the MAF sensors slide into in order to ease installation, lubricated the O-rings, and make a better seal. I use the Dow Corning 111 grease.

[hahnmgh63]

4D0260778 (javascript:;) bonded rubber mounting and the two nuts are N 90175203 (javascript:;)

[Chung]

Awesome thanks for the numbers. I managed to get my airbox off but I am not sure it was sealed correctly before I took it off or even now. I am still getting the MAF code so I want to at the very least replace those bolts.

When are you getting your car back together?

[hahnmgh63]

Went out to bolt the Turbo's on today and it was way too hot. Maybe tomorrow, I'm enjoying TV and A/C right now :)

[ben916]

Awesome thanks for the numbers. I managed to get my airbox off but I am not sure it was sealed correctly before I took it off or even now. I am still getting the MAF code so I want to at the very least replace those bolts.

When are you getting your car back together?

Are you confident in the connections of the wiring harness to the MAFS?
Search "Rabbit Hole" for my issues...

[Chung]

New nuts are on (cheapest part on the car I think 2x for $0.52. Home Depot probably paid more to Mastercard). The airbox doesn't wobble but stilll getting a code.

I am not confident in much on the car but the wiring harness looked ok to me (and it did have its pink plastic widget inside). Funny enough the car for that spark plug write up is the one I purchased.

My next step is to crack the learning curve of the VAG-COM and get some logs. Right now I am hoping MAF sensors aren't a bajillion dollars each. Are these the type of thing you replace both at the same time?


Also a Top Gear top tip: Google does a pretty decent job in searching the forum. Just do "site:rs6.com <search query>" For some reason I struggle with the site's searching function.

[hahnmgh63]

Yes, replace both MAF sensors in pairs and they can be found on Amazon or just a google search cheaper than the dealers but I haven't priced them yet on Genuine as they do have some great prices for the OEM box as I've purchased most of my seals, gaskets, etc... for my project through them. There is also the center hold down bolt do you have that in? Hopefully someone can chime in if I'm wrong but I think Block 3 is the total MAF flow and I can't remember if you have a Block for the individual MAF sensors but some how Block 2 comes to mind.

[hahnmgh63]

The MAF's are part # 06A906461M (javascript:;) (Audi) and 0986280218 (Bosch) Genuine is asking $158 and MJM Autohaus has it remanufactured for $124. As long as it is remanufactured with a Bosch sensor it is as good as new since they are only reusing the plastic housing which makes sense not to throw away.

[Chung]

I have the center bolt.

Here is how I planned to log the MAF.
http://www.ross-tech.net/vag-com/advertising/DiagnosingA_MAF_TechTip.pdf

Also with some more searching I found this: http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/18519-I-think-I-fixed-the-beast!?p=162315&viewfull=1. I guess this is not the first dance with the missing nuts (I know red flag word) on my car. Also searching it appears the MAF sensor were replaced around May of 2009. Does that seem like an average life for them?

Need to add this stuff to the how to fix a RS6 book :)

[hahnmgh63]

That's a good one. I also saved that PDF in a folder for future use. I just replaced my original MAF's last year on the RS6 and on the tt (2001) so I would say they are good for 5~10 years depending on the amount of driving you do, and less if you are using a oil impregnated air cleaner. If they were both replaced in 2009 with OEM MAF's I would think they are probably still good. I have seen aftermarket ones fail out of the box but as long as they were Bosch they are probably good but testing them can't hurt and you won't need to do long full throttle runs to get mulitplicative fuel trim data.

[Chung]

I would say the G70 bank MAF is low. I am going to try to reseat the airbox once the dow corning stuff you recommended arrives.

[Chung]

Ok I am back at this again armed with some dow corning 111 and some CRC electrical cleaner.

Which side is bank 1 (g70) and which side is bank 2 just so I know where to be looking? If this doesn't work I may go against all advice and try cleaning the MAF.

[hahnmgh63]

G70 is the left MAF sensor. The dealer has some great electrical enhancer too but it isn't cheap. It's called Stabilant 22 or Stabilant 22A. It is considered one of the best in the industry and might be cheaper from a VW dealer or online. Although you will be shocked at how little comes in a bottle for the price but it only takes a partical bit of a drop on electrical connections. As for the Silicone grease, just wipe a little all the way around on the MAF intake pipe when you pull the air cleaner assembly off, just like you would on a oil filter gasket, not too heavy, just so it has a nice shiny armorall look to it.
http://www.stabilant.com/techt02h.htm