brake question for the gurus!

[peiserg]

Guys,

I've got EBC reds (10k miles) front and rear. OEM original rear rotors (71k miles), and my custom 2 peice front rotors (10k miles).

Upon install of the new pads and front rotor rings, i had a shimmy, so had the fronts surfaced. Shimmy was better, but not all the way. Had them resurfaced. Shimmy was almost all gone, but still obvious considering how smooth it is supposed to stop.

About 1000 miles ago, i started getting the brake CEL. I removed my front and rear drivers side (so far) tires, and measured my rotors with a caliper.. 3.3-3.35 cm thickness (outside of rotor to outside of rotor) on the front, and 2.05 on the rear.

Without removing the pads, they; appear quite thick to the eye.. both inside and outside pad front and rear.


I'm trying to figure the light out before i hit audi north scottsdale. If it turns out my rears are cooked (too thin??) then i'd like to know what i can get them for before going to the dealer, since they typically price match.

If the fronts are cooked, (thickness should be same as OEM specs) then i need to reorder my fronts before i go in.

i searched but can't find the OEM rotor specs!!

anyone? suggesstions?

thanks, gerry

[ben916]

Looking at ETKA-
fronts are 365mm by 34mm (thought the min was 32.9mm or 32.4mm)
rears are 335mm by 22mm (not sure if peeps really have to replace these at your current mileage)

My used front rotors are buried in the garage at the moment...otherwise I would have the exact min on the fronts..

[peiserg]

is the 34mm and 22 mm the "minimum" or what they come with new?

[kismetcapitan]

you may not have run in your brakes properly. If you get your rotors red hot, and then come to a stop and keep the brakes pressed, part of the pad will, for lack of a better term, "melt" into the rotor, sort of like an imprint. The braking surface is then not even, but slightly raised where the brake pad imprint is. Resurfacing can help, but not completely solve the problem as the brake pad material somehow integrates itself into the metal crystal structure. I can't recall exactly but Stoptech has a page on their website that describes exactly what's happening scientifically.

Whatever car I'm in, if I know I've cooked the brakes hard, if I'm then at a stoplight, I go into neutral and throw on the handbrake. Properly running in higher spec brake pads like EBC Reds requires ten runs of full 100% braking from 80mph to a standstill.

[ben916]

is the 34mm and 22 mm the "minimum" or what they come with new?

That is new...

There is a thread about my Frozen OEM rotors experience (search Frozen)...

[JSRS6]

34 new on front, 32.4 min.
22 new on rear, 20.4 min

[Brav]

I have this same shimmy problem with my EBC reds and JHM 2 piece rotors. I still cant get it to go away after resurfacing.. I am going to change pads soon, probably Hawk, and see if that fixes it.

[kismetcapitan]

this is your problem:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml

[4everRS]

this is your problem:
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtmlWow, nice read.