Manual Conversion Thread - RS6 with 01E

[SteveKen]

I'm initiating this thread for the 6 speed manual conversion.

First off, I can attest that the RS6 slushbox can be removed without pulling the motor. I've done it at a leisurely pace over the last few days with the car on stands. No lift. It wasn't fun, but it can be done.

The build starts off assuming that the automatic is removed and everything else is in proper order.

I'll be adding a parts list somewhere down the line as well.

I'll be pulling the flex plate, crank plug and start the assembly tonight. Pictures will be forthcoming.

If all goes well, the car will be at Carlisle in 5 days. Stay tuned. . .

[V8weight]

Pretty ambitious schedule you've set for yourself, good luck to you!

[ben916]

Is this a stock 01E or has there been any strengthening occurred to it so it will handle the insane amounts of torque to be tossed at it? :)

[SteveKen]

The only 'non-stock/OEM' items are the flywheel, adapter, starter, clutch and pressure plate.

The transmission was recently rebuilt with a new 1st gear (as my original one was worn), updated 1-2 shift collar with updated synchros, 0.56 6th gearset and a 4:1 Torsen. I don't plan to drive it any different than I normally do with the automatic, so I think the stock gears internals should do just fine.

[Carbonman]

My 01E is being built to the exact specs at Steve's and I think it should do fine as long as it's not abused. I think if people start launching the car or really driving it like an idiot, there will be problems, but it can't be any worse than the ZF coming out (two failures in 92K miles). The nice thing is the tall 6th gear will make highway cruising something beautiful; 1800-1900 RPM at 65-70 will be awesome.

Steve's kit is a pretty sweet setup. Check it out if you're interested - it really takes a lot of guess work out of the swap.

[TozoM8]

Good luck Steve! Remember, it's just nuts and bolts.

[SteveKen]

Good luck Steve! Remember, it's just nuts and bolts.

I kind feel like the nut, doing this on my back. I can't thank you enough for the advice from our conversation.

Also, I didn't even come close to your time for removal. Maybe X2 or X3 a best???

[SteveKen]

The first update with some meat has me cleaning up whatever I can and removing the flex plate. Here's the view:

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may16/whole_area.JPG

Note in the center of the crank is a plug that needs to be removed as it interferes with the trans input shaft and pilot bearing. Here's a close up. You can just barely see the line separating the plug form the crank flange:

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may16/plug_as_rcvd.JPG

It wasn't going to be easily removed, so I had to resort to pushing it out by threading the ID and installing a socket pushed by a 3/4 - 10 bolt:

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may16/plug_tapped.JPG

I drilled it out to open up the ID before tapping it, but there might be a metric tap that works better on the as-received ID. The SAE tap and bolt was easier to source in a pinch the last time I had to do this.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may16/plug_extactor.JPG

and the result:

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may16/crank_plug.JPG

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may16/plug_out.JPG

cleaned up a a bit more and installed the flywheel.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may16/fw_installed.JPG

There was no way for me to get the torque spot on due to the fact that the 17mm socket wouldn't go on some of the bolts if an adjacent head was turned just the wrong way. I'm probably at torque plus 0 - 30 degrees or so. The OEM flex plate had round head socket head triple square cap screws, but they don't make them in the length that I need. My flywheel supplier includes the bolts and they're the perfect length. 30mm I think? BTW, the aluminum flywheel doesn't require the torque plus 180 deg procedure.

That's it for today. Not much progress, but I forgot about the pressure plate bolts and South Bend didn't supply them, so that stopped me in my tracks.

Also note all the heat shielding that m S6 did not have:

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may16/heat_shielding.JPG

Steering rack is cocooned up there somewhere. I'm going to need to figure out where to make an opening to route the clutch hydraulics. I know I can see the plenum area drains from the top, but all this heat shielding is most likely another source for debris which could lead to water ingress. Consider this extra tidbit a PSA to clean out the drains and try and pull all the debris up and out, rather than push it down through.

Tomorrow I hope to have the clutch & PP installed and have the slave cylinder hydraulics routed. I'm going to replace all the wastegate hoses and the plastic tee fitting from the N75 with a $2 brass one that I got from aquarium section at Pet Smart. Yes, really.

[hahnmgh63]

Steve, with that Aluminum flywheel you may need some custom chips? I dropped a 3.6ltr 911 '91 year motor in my older '74 911S and went to a lightweight steel flywheel, Aluminum pressure plate package that removed #26 off of the OEM dual mass flywheel and the engine would die after the revs dropped from higher RPM's as is was so much more responsive without the extra weight that the fuel injection's idle circuit couldn't keep up and catch the engine as the revs dropped at idle without a well timed throttle blip around ~1200~1500rpm's to slow the deceleration. I had some custom chips made and all is pretty well now. Of course our Motronic is much more advance than my 1991 911 motor's?

[skribe]

I dropped a 3.6ltr 911 '91 year motor in my older '74 911S

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/68199_186807341335532_185354038147529_774051_46182 02_s.jpg

[hahnmgh63]

Hey, the 911 is stripped, RS style carpet & door panels, no radio or A/C. Weights #2280 and with about 300bhp it goes like hell. Suspension modified with Monoball joints a spherical bushings. It is a blast to drive but not on long trips as there is no sound deadening.

[JSRS6]

http://photos-c.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/68199_186807341335532_185354038147529_774051_46182 02_s.jpg

:lovl::lovl::lovl:

Wait...skribe=Andrew=Andy^^^? Har Har.

[SteveKen]

Steve, with that Aluminum flywheel you may need some custom chips? I dropped a 3.6ltr 911 '91 year motor in my older '74 911S and went to a lightweight steel flywheel, Aluminum pressure plate package that removed #26 off of the OEM dual mass flywheel and the engine would die after the revs dropped from higher RPM's as is was so much more responsive without the extra weight that the fuel injection's idle circuit couldn't keep up and catch the engine as the revs dropped at idle without a well timed throttle blip around ~1200~1500rpm's to slow the deceleration. I had some custom chips made and all is pretty well now. Of course our Motronic is much more advance than my 1991 911 motor's?

The flywheel pictured is 9 pounds lighter than the solid steel UrS6+ flywheel. I'm hoping that it's not an issue as I've talked with a few folks that are running a similar flywheel with the 4.2 and received positive feedback.

[Carbonman]

Steve,

Looking very good! Thanks for the pictures of the progress. Did you end up using the slave clutch cylinder and stainless flex line from USP Motorsports? I ended up getting one based off your suggestion and I think it will make the routing a lot easier than the ridgid setup.

When you drilled the plug out, was there a gap behind the plug to allow you to tap all the way through? How much force did you have to apply to the bolt to get the plug loose? Also, if I tapped the as-received ID, would there be something for the bolt to land on to push the plug out, or did you need to drill it out a little more to be able to get a larger bolt in place?

Could you take a couple pictures of the car from the front and sides so we can get a better perspective on your workspace? The pictures make it look like you've got tons of space to work from, but I think you are doing this laying on your back, which is amazing!

Keep up the good work and stay safe!

[JSRS6]

Hey steve, pilot bearing?

[Carbonman]

Looks like it's already installed in the flywheel.

[JSRS6]

It does, doesnt it...:doh:

[Carbonman]

A quick update on this project - Steve shot me a short message yesterday - he's got the tranny and engine mated up - and wishing he was doing this on a lift! I'm guessing he's probably got all the major stuff done by now. There are a lot of projects going on out there with some cool stuff, but as far as old-school bust your seeds hard work - this guy's got everyone trumped. RS6 6-speed conversion on jack stands: only a real man gets to tell that story!

[SteveKen]

Erik. You give me too much credit. I emailed you while my directions for the bolt hole locations and lengths, etc. were being printed out because I couldn't remember where they went.

Well, I started a few bolts before I realized I couldn't remember and I damaged the block by inserting a bolt that was too long into the wrong hole. Long story short, I found this out this afternoon so now the motor is ready to come down in the AM and I'm going to be installing my spare motor.

I should be more upset with myself at this point. Oh well, live and learn. I can't even follow my own directions.

Theoretically I could still make it to Carlisle on Saturday, but then I'd be revisiting a lot of things as I'd still need to do the timing belt and water pump replacement among other things to it.

Anyway, back to the build pictures and thoughts and then I hope to get some thoughts on how I should proceed.

[SteveKen]

Back to the conversion project before it got derailed.

Perspective of the only garage I've got available to me at this time.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/perspecive1.JPG

reminds me of this shot taken many many years ago of a B5 S4 project:

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/s4/misc/pre_assy.JPG

More orientation pics:

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/perspecive2.JPG

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/perspecive3.JPG

Here's a pic of the firewall just to the right of the brake booster. I already removed the rubber plug where the fluid reservoir feeds the clutch master cylinder

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/fw_pre.JPG

And after removing the lower plug (which is seam sealed in place) by cutting around it. The SS flex hose from the USP slave cylinder kit is routed and ready.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/fw_post_w_hose.JPG

Here's the hydraulic line before I routed it. the plenum drain on the driver's side serves as a grommet. There's a tab you must cut and route the hose through.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/drvr_drain_cable.JPG

With the heat shield that covers the steering rack pulled back, you can see how the cable is routed. I bought a hose retaining clamp at the hardware store that's similar to the stock one for securing the hose once it's in place.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/line_routing_1.JPG

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/line_routing_2.JPG

This is the OEM nut that hods the clamp in place. There already exists a threaded post.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/nut.JPG

Pic of the area ready to accept the 01E:

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/per_trans.JPG

[SteveKen]

Transmission. I picked this up for $200 but had to do a full rebuild using upgraded synchros and 1-2 shift collar, new 1st drive gear, 0.5 tall 6th gearset and 4:1 torsen. Here it is all ready to go with new TO bearing supplied with the South Bend clutch:

<img src="http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/trans.JPG">

And with the adapter plate installed. I used some tapered sockets to line everything up before tightening the three screws

<img src="http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/trans_w_adapter.JPG">

More perspective pics of the trans ready for installation.

<img src="http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may18/ready_drvr.JPG">

<img src="http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may18/ready_ds_back.JPG">

<img src="http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may18/ready_back.JPG">

[SteveKen]

OK, more pics with the trans installed. This proves that it can be done without the need for engine removal. There is a trick to getting it in though with a special sequence of x - y - z movements to clear all the obstacles.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may19/drvr.JPG

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may19/pass.JPG

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may19/pass_up.JPG

Right when I saw the oil stain here I knew what had happened.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may19/pass_low.JPG

I decided to eliminate this screw as the length was very hard to source.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may19/mess_up_hole.JPG

The adapter still has the M10 threaded hole in it though and I didn't have my install diagram with me and made the grave error.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may19/crack.JPG

Crack is whack.

Can it be fixed? Maybe. I've basically written it off though and now have another project of tearing it down when I get the chance. If I decide to start another project where I need it, I'll look into the feasibility of a repair. I can always source another block as I know of a secret stash. :)

Another avenue is to part it out for the internals and top end. There's go to be some moolah in that.

More to follow, but I'm debating on what to do now that I've got the whole motor coming down and out and will most likely have to wait for a timing belt and H2O pump kit to arrive.

Here are some things I'm considering:

1. Removing the aux rads and all unnecessary plumbing because of the aux rads.
2. Removing the SAI pump and all the plumbing and having block off plates fabbed up.
3. Routing the oil lines through the trans cooler loops to add additional oil cooling.

Any thoughts on these?


http://www.rs6.com/editpost.php?do=updatepost&postid=213975

[SteveKen]

Kind of an aside on the plenum drains.

They ar ehard to gt to but I recommend tring to clean them out or at least inspect them to see if they are clogged.

Here's my pass side one from underneath:

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/pass_drain.JPG

And the driver's side:

<img src="http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/drvr_drain.JPG">

Also behind the ECU box. Yuk.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may17/ecu_plenum.JPG

[Aronis]

LMAO! now that's a DIY man's man!!

[MaxRS6]

Wow!!!!- I am not worthy to even look at the pics...0(

Thanks for taking the time to share the experience with us

[terrytcl]

Here are some things I'm considering:

1. Removing the aux rads and all unnecessary plumbing because of the aux rads.
2. Removing the SAI pump and all the plumbing and having block off plates fabbed up.
3. Routing the oil lines through the trans cooler loops to add additional oil cooling.



YES, YES, and YES

what tranny mounts are you planning on using? Advanced Automotion has the euro S6 v8 01E tranny mounts. I was told those would line up the drivetrain the best.

[terrytcl]

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may19/mess_up_hole.JPG

The adapter still has the M10 threaded hole in it though and I didn't have my install diagram with me and made the grave error.



Steve, so the threaded hole in the adapter was the main cause of the crack? or because your bolt was too long?

[hahnmgh63]

I'm with you Terry on the Secondary Air Injection pump. What does the thing really do? It only injects the air on start-up for about 1 minute or so so does it really help emission much, No. It shouldn't affect those going to emission testing as the car would already be warmed up, the only problem would be to have somebody custom code the ECU chip to code it out I think. When I put my car back together, hopefully next month sometime, I'm going to block it all off for now. Why not save another 5#'s and some complextity by getting rid of it?

[terrytcl]

I'm with you Terry on the Secondary Air Injection pump. What does the thing really do? It only injects the air on start-up for about 1 minute or so so does it really help emission much, No. It shouldn't affect those going to emission testing as the car would already be warmed up, the only problem would be to have somebody custom code the ECU chip to code it out I think. When I put my car back together, hopefully next month sometime, I'm going to block it all off for now. Why not save another 5#'s and some complextity by getting rid of it?


viper will remove it from the ecu coding.

actually, what it does is act like a EGR valve. recycle partial exhaust gas back into the intake system to reduce the amount of emissions as your engine warms up to optimal operating temperatures.
in my opinion, very little emissions compared to gutting your cats. :)

[terrytcl]

actually, the SAI and all of the components will probably be more than 5 lbs.

imagine the amount of room you open up also for a meth injection kit or proper oil catch cans.

[hahnmgh63]

Exactly Terry, mine doesn't run for more than about 1 minute on a cold startup so the car and the Catalytic converters are definitley up to operating temp so it is a real placebo to add to the car for a slight start-up change in emissions.

[terrytcl]

Exactly Terry, mine doesn't run for more than about 1 minute on a cold startup so the car and the Catalytic converters are definitley up to operating temp so it is a real placebo to add to the car for a slight start-up change in emissions.

yea! so, what's the point of the parasitic components if you're planning running catless? :)

i can get some machined up if someone has dimensions of the flange

[Aronis]

I did not see your photo above my post..

I am very sorry to read about the crack.

How are you going to pull the engine with your car on blocks in that tight space?

Mike

[Brazil]

Steve, very sorry to hear about the crack in the block (saw your post on WayOT). I'd just go forward with the spare engine and have the crack looked at for repair. I'd be surprised if it were in an area that couldn't be fixed. Of course, your parts would be worth more in pieces.

Couple thoughts: the flywheel shouldn't give you any issues with fast RPM drop. As you know, the B5 guys have been running LWFWs for a decade now without issue. The engine management is a bit more sophisticated than the '91 911 system.

If you eliminate the secondary air injection pump, I'd buy yours. Mine is making quite a bit of bearing noise.

General comment: this forum is spoiled! Lifts are a rare commodity. Though Steve is indeed "the man" for doing this job on jackstands, it's not a rare thing in the true DIY community. Having a lift is the rare thing. I've pulled countless S4 engines on jackstands both with subframe drop methods and lift out. I pulled and rebuilt my Esprit engine all on jackstands in a cramped space. It can be done.

[JSRS6]

Rare, maybe. Expensive, no. If anybody in Florida needs to use a lift after say, April 2013, I will have at least one in a garage behind my house. Gotta wait till we move back down there after I get back from overseas.

[JSRS6]

And I will be building my beast down there.

[Carbonman]

Steve, so the threaded hole in the adapter was the main cause of the crack? or because your bolt was too long?

The hole that is circled (see the picture above) is an unused position. It's not really necessary and the 70mm bolt length wasn't readily available. The problem was a 75mm bolt was put into that position by mistake and caused the damage to the block when tightened.

[ben916]

General comment: this forum is spoiled! Lifts are a rare commodity. Though Steve is indeed "the man" for doing this job on jackstands, it's not a rare thing in the true DIY community. Having a lift is the rare thing. I've pulled countless S4 engines on jackstands both with subframe drop methods and lift out. I pulled and rebuilt my Esprit engine all on jackstands in a cramped space. It can be done.

Nice Seagull thread post....
The issue of a lift is where to put it (real estate and vertical space) versus obtaining one...

Steve is THE man for braving the waters of 6sp manual conversion by himself and with an aggressive time line...

[Brazil]

Thanks, yes, I know.

[SteveKen]

Here's the damage:

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may20/damage.JPG

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may20/dummy.JPG

Here's the story as has pretty much already been relayed by Erik. The threaded hole exists in the adapter plate, but a 70mm M10 bolt is spec'd. These are pretty hard to find so my kit's instructions had this hole labeled as not used. I'm a dummy. No excuses. I'm either going to source the 70mm screw or plug the threaded hole in the adapter.

So now I was wrong in assuming that the crack breached the rear main seal area, but was right thinking that it made it into the soft plug.

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may20/softplug1.JPG

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may20/softplug2.JPG

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may20/softplug3.JPG

Side view of the crack below the soft plug

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may20/crack.JPG

It seems as if the crack stopped once it hit the beefier section of the block.

The flange removed:

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/build/2011may20/rem_flange.JPG

Anyone have any ideas on my options for this? Honestly, I'd like to try and have this fixed.

I'm thinking that a saw cut through the crack and filled with weld or some other space age Billy Mays type material to prevent the leak. New soft plug (since I pear shaped the other one) and then It will be good to go.

I really don't need to use the upper starter flange since the upper bolts attaches to the adapter and not the block anyway.

I need to find out who can do it, either on site or at a shop. The soft plug hole would probably have to be machined if its welded.

[Brav]

Balls of steel.. I cant imagine tackling this myself. Sorry to hear about the block. Good luck on the completion!

[hahnmgh63]

I think a reputable welder could Tig fill that all along the crack then a good machine shop to re-machine where the soft plug goes and your all fixed.

[kevin]

It's toast.

[TozoM8]

Since the starter bolts to the spacer, that piece has no funcion anyway. A good JB weld will fix the crack. I would not worry about it for a second.

[PALETTE]

Since the starter bolts to the spacer, that piece has no func

ion anyway. A good JB weld will fix the crack. I would not worry about it for a second.

There you go! Toss it back in and your up and running in no time!

[hahnmgh63]

I know some think JB Weld is a miracle cure but I would feel much better with an aluminum weld. Expansion & Contraction and the oil at the end of the soft plug all working together to unseat the epoxy from the JB wld fix. Especially considering the time to take it all apart and put it back together if it leaks later.

[Carbonman]

I think TozoM8 is right - it's a worry, but I think a pretty lucky break considering. Here's what I would do:

1.) Find a local welder who can weld on his back. Steve - you can drop half and engine and change a tranny on your back, I'm guessing you know a welder who can lay a decent bead under a car. Get his read on it, but I'm guessing he an go right over the top of the crack and get a pretty darn good result. He might remove a bit of material first to help hold, but let him tell give you the plan
11349

2.) JB weld the hairline on the inner surface. Most of the leak potential comes from the outside and this will be resolved by the actual weld. All you're concerned about is stopping any leakage along the hairline crack and as you and Gabor both point out, the adapter ring bears the starter load so there's really no stress to be concerned about.
11350

I think a decent welder can make this a non-issue for you.

BTW - I love your ability to poke fun at yourself and downplay this whole issue. That's a skill a lot of us lack, myself definitely included, and should learn.

Erik

[Elevens]

You have my Utmost respect for taking on a job like this. Truly amazing, not only did you do it with out removing the engine but on your back also. That's insane. Very sorry to hear about the setback, but I am sure you'll straighten it out one way or another. Good luck and keep us informed....................





Vinny

[micdee]

:bow: R.E.S.P.E.C.T. :bow:

I think of myself of an amatuer DIY-er... but when I see this I think I know nuffin...
I hope you will figure it all out.

[Matt@ravenms]

Hey Guys Hate to Chime in, and tread jack.... Steve, Sorry to hear the unfortunate news.

Our shop car is Under the Knife again as well, Not for being Broken but for testing.

What everyone should know is that we are running a Alum Flywheel on our RS6. Which is designed off the B4 S4 Flywheels, with a couple of changes made.

Steveken's Alum flywheel is pretty much the Same Flywheel as what we are using, Since we both have the same supplier that make them. Check back on previous posts for pictures.



Couple thoughts: the flywheel shouldn't give you any issues with fast RPM drop. As you know, the B5 guys have been running LWFWs for a decade now without issue. The engine management is a bit more sophisticated than the '91 911 system.


Since you haven't drivin a RS6 w a Alum flywheel, don't speak so soon. The Rpm does drop pretty quick, and has a hard time w engagement off the line.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tNGYSS_kxE4&feature=related Check out the video of me at Buttonwillow. The RPM drops pretty quick between shifts or down shifting. So, we have come up with a Fix.

I have now made a Solid Steel flywheel to take place of the Alum flywheel. I'm just about finish installing it on our RS6, and everything looks Great!

Once the car is Back together, I will post up a Review on it.


Also..... I have removed the extra two small radiators behind IC, Got rid of the Stock IC's for ER IC's, Ditch the Trans/OIL cooler for a Setra oil cooler, and Removed the SAI

My next step is GOING BIG. I have a Set of Tial 770 turbos design for direct bolt on w Divorce flange exhaust, full exhaust made and a WaterMeth kit. :)

Will keep everyone posted


Sorry to tread jack Steve

[JSRS6]

Veddy nice!
And don't being so sorry with jacking off the thread with the sexy car talk.
http://www.babble.com/CS/blogs/famecrawler/2008/01/16-22/borat-america-court-lawsuit-cohen.jpg

[skribe]

Ugh, I feel for you... I've pulled similar bonehead moves in my day. Just have to shrug it off.

Looking forward to the day when brave souls like you have worked the bugs out of this conversion, and for that I thank you!

[bmlee007]

Steve, too bad you weren't able to bring it to Carlisle, I was looking forward to seeing the conversion. Turned out to be a pretty nice day, and I finally got to drive my beast for a couple hours. Seems to be good to go for the trip to CT this weekend, and with some mildly spirited driving on the way home (hooked up with a boxster, 911 turbo S who didn't want to play, and a Cobalt!?!?) still managed over 23 mpg. Oh, and the Cobalt got pulled over, he just had to be the first in line coming into town.

[716YETI]

You have the patience of a saint, seriously. Actually you may be insane. lol
Without having to search the world wide web for answers, I have some questions...
This thread is new but didn't I see a thread from last summer where you were selling these kits? So this is not your first install? Or is it? Sorry for the confusion.
Has this conversion been tested and proven good? If so when can you do this install for me?:D

[Matt@ravenms]

.
Has this conversion been tested and proven good? If so when can you do this install for me?:D

Is that question directed at me or Steve?

Our car has over 4k miles logged, and 2 track weekends under it's belt. This is still my first one done.

And still in the test stage, We have Alum and Steel flywheels to offer.

[716YETI]

Oh, you too I guess. (Sorry I am new to the RS6 scene, still learning who is who. lol) Good to hear some good results so far.

[SteveKen]

You have the patience of a saint, seriously. Actually you may be insane. lol
Without having to search the world wide web for answers, I have some questions...
This thread is new but didn't I see a thread from last summer where you were selling these kits? So this is not your first install? Or is it? Sorry for the confusion.
Has this conversion been tested and proven good? If so when can you do this install for me?:D

You are correct. I've had a spare RS6 motor and 01E for a while ans decided to have the adapters designed and manufactured to be as plug ans play as possible. The mechanical side is addressed with the kit. The flywheel is aluminum and has yet to be tested with my clutch combination. I'm faithful to the aluminum based on the fact that I've personally spoken with other 6 speed 4.2 owners that have used the Al flywheel with good success. The crucial ingredient is the clutch and pressure plate.

My goal is to have a daily driveable and streetable car as if it came straight from the factory.

I'm back at it this weekend and hope to have wheels on the ground next week.

The ECU side is up in the air as well. To make the ECU perfect using an outside source would most likely make it unattractive (read too expensive) for the masses. I've got some tricks and experiments I'd like to try to see what the affect is. I hope to scientifically run down a list of scenarios to see how the driveability is affected, CEL's, etc.

Where are you located. I'm able to rebuild the 01E and the mechanical conversion on the RS6 can be done without engine removal.

PM me if you're interested.

More build details to follow after the weekend . . .

[716YETI]

Buffalo so, not far at all really if you are in Pitt! Once I get the engine problems sorted out I will know more of what direction I want to go in with the trans.
Thanks for the info.

[Greg@DMtechnik]

i have ECU solutions for this and Steve when ever your ready let me know i can help :)

Anything from Mild to Wild ;)

[1sadavant]

Steve,

Any updates? If you need a hand, I would be happy to help!

[SteveKen]

Steve,

Any updates? If you need a hand, I would be happy to help!

Work has me tied up and I've made slow progress thus far.

I might be traveling again so there's no easy time line.

All three pedals are in and a ll the clutch plumbing is run. I've got pictures but haven't uploaded them yet.

The engine was repaired and is now sitting on the garage floor. I completed the passenger side valve cover gaskets and all the seals last night and have to do the driver's side one tonight.

Timing belt and water pump maybe tonight too, or I'll wait until the engine is in place.

Hopefully some progress by the end of the week. I only work on it after all the family activities are done, etc. Basically from 9pm - 1am weeknights when I get the chance

[SteveKen]

I'm back at it and SAI is removed and so are the aux radiators.

It's unbelievable how much stuff there is just to add the two radiators.

http://www.rs6.com/%3Cimg%20src=http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/misc/aux_rads.JPG

Since the engine was out, I removed everything and really only retained #19 & #36 from everything above. I had to drop the steering rack to remove #32, but it wasn't bad at all.

Anyway, #36 is a group of short hoses and custom elbows that looked like I made it. Without buying the non-hot weather package replacements, I decided to plug the tube at the elbow. Another plug was required at #19 where tube #18 goes.

I found these caps, which hopefully should work:
http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/misc/SAI/sai_caps.JPG

Here they are installed on the two components:
http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/misc/SAI/sai_caps_installed.JPG

[ben916]

Steve,
Are you keeping any type of tally of the weight gain/loss to the total replacement of the project?
Ounces would be ridiculous unless you are on the tour de France, BUT lbs in round numbers would be ideal :)

Thanks!

[ttboost]

Or just weigh it afterwords!!! We all know what the pig weighs now!!!

[hahnmgh63]

The cars vary a bit depending on options and mods. My BBS wheels saved about 40lbs over stock and the Drycell battery was worth 39lbs. Plus removal of some other junk, Onstar, Spare tire, compressor, etc....

[JSRS6]

Exactly. That's the reason I got mine without the solar sunroof, or sun shades. Although Im kicking my self now that I have a kid about the sun shades.

[hahnmgh63]

Sunshades might add a slight amount but I can't imagine the solar sunroof being any heavier than the standard sunroof. I have the hot weather package and with a half tank of fuel my car scaled at 4120lbs.

[SteveKen]

For what it's worth, I have my S6 transmission with TC on a 36" by 36" pallet without any fluids and it weighs 385 pounds.

I didn't think it would be near that much.

By myself, I can pick up and carry the 01E with fluids installed.

[JSRS6]

For what it's worth, I have my S6 transmission with TC on a 36" by 36" pallet without any fluids and it weighs 385 pounds.

I didn't think it would be near that much.

By myself, I can pick up and carry the 01E with fluids installed.

Ditto! Not the best feeling on your shoulder though, lol.

[716YETI]

OK you need to hurry up so you can do my car next. :D My TC is SHOT, I need to do something soon.

[SteveKen]

OK you need to hurry up so you can do my car next. :D My TC is SHOT, I need to do something soon.

I PM'd you about this.

[Christian-]

Hey Steve,

Any updates?

[SteveKen]

I'm back at it tonight for a while and have a question for the group.

With the aux radiators gone, are the IC ducts aft of the IC's needed? #15 & #16 as pictured below.

<img src="http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/misc/ic_diag.JPG">

[hahnmgh63]

When you do the Wagner intercoolers you don't re-use those rear ducts as the Wagners are too thick and you would have to cut them down a lot to get them to fit so I wouldn't worrry about them. It might end up being all your fault. You posted the schematic of the Aux Radiators and all of that plumbing, and since I am somewhat Anal on weight savings where I can (Dry cell battery, Forged Wheels, etc..), you have me thinking seriously about removing those Radiators too. If they can get by in most of the World without them, I guess I probably can too, plus the weight savings and extra hoses that really want to eventually leak.

[ttboost]

When you do the Wagner intercoolers you don't re-use those rear ducts as the Wagners are too thick and you would have to cut them down a lot to get them to fit so I wouldn't worrry about them. It might end up being all your fault. You posted the schematic of the Aux Radiators and all of that plumbing, and since I am somewhat Anal on weight savings where I can (Dry cell battery, Forged Wheels, etc..), you have me thinking seriously about removing those Radiators too. If they can get by in most of the World without them, I guess I probably can too, plus the weight savings and extra hoses that really want to eventually leak.


I was gonna ask...is that a fairly straight forward mod? What do we have to plug? I don't recall where the lines come from? Is there a DIY on this here? Seems like I am heatsoaking my IC's too, even though these are in the back?

[hahnmgh63]

Take a look at Steve's post from a couple of days ago. He has the ETKA view of the Aux Radiators and it shows all of the hoses & pipes associated with them. It's a lot.

[ttboost]

Take a look at Steve's post from a couple of days ago. He has the ETKA view of the Aux Radiators and it shows all of the hoses & pipes associated with them. It's a lot.

Yeah...I just noticed it...post #63...looks like the engine has to be out to get ALL of it out...as the rack is behind the motor under the cowl...what an engineering clusterf*ck this car is...

[DonS]

I would think the aerodynamics of the ducting is like that of a the exterior of the car. The inlet air is just as important as the outgoing air. I'd find a way to keep air moving away from the ICs with or without those ducts.

[hahnmgh63]

There might be a piece of two you can't get at very easily but most looks like it can be done with the engine in the car. Of course this is coming from someone who's engine is sitting on a stand 30 feet from the car.

[SteveKen]

Without removing the rack, you could plug #32 where it meets #31. I plugged it up at the connector built into #36.

I'm not sure if having any air trapped in there would be a big issue, or having coolant sit in there that doesn't get circulated, etc.

[Mattionals]

Steve,

I'm not sure if you posted it anywhere, although I searched the thread and didn't see it, but what car is your 01E, axles, rear, and driveshaft from?

I'm not jumping the gun since I don't even own an RS6 yet but when I do go the manual route, it is now a definite considering the swap has been done a few times now, I'd like to see what combo fits the RS6 the best. I know that auids4parts.com is selling an entire manual conversion kit with the following:


Audi s4/a6 o1E 6 Speed Transmission - 6month/Unlimited Mile Warranty
2.7T Clutch
Flywheel
DS & PS Transmission Brackets
DS & PS Transmission rubber Mount
Transmission Mounting Ring
Transmission to motor bolts
Rear Drive shaft (a6 6 speed Specific)
Rear Diff (a6 6 speed specific)
Shifter Linkage
Shifter Box w/ internal Components
Shifter Boot (from a6)
Shifter Knob
Clutch Line w/ clips
Clutch Pedal assembly w/ switch and Pigtails
Slave Cylinder
Master Cylinder
A6 Specific Front Axles (Driverside & PassengerSide)

If the gearing is ideal, this could be a great setup. All of this plus your kit ends up somewhere just south of 5K, but after factoring in shipping costs it probably will end up over that figure.

TBH, if that is the mechanical cost, that is probably the more expensive factor. I'd assume some hefty expense for a ECU flash to compensate for not having the slushbox in there. All in all that isn't as bad as it really could be! Great work and keep it up!

[speedtrapped]

Steve when I installed wagners, I followed Yokust's lead and removed the aux radiators....just spliced pipes, and zip tied....no overheating issues, temps identical to before.

[ttboost]

Steve when I installed wagners, I followed Yokust's lead and removed the aux radiators....just spliced pipes, and zip tied....no overheating issues, temps identical to before.

So you just removed the actual radiators and left everything else?

[speedtrapped]

si, as simple as that

[Carbonman]

Steve,

I'm not sure if you posted it anywhere, although I searched the thread and didn't see it, but what car is your 01E, axles, rear, and driveshaft from?

I'm not jumping the gun since I don't even own an RS6 yet but when I do go the manual route, it is now a definite considering the swap has been done a few times now, I'd like to see what combo fits the RS6 the best. I know that auids4parts.com is selling an entire manual conversion kit with the following:


Audi s4/a6 o1E 6 Speed Transmission - 6month/Unlimited Mile Warranty
2.7T Clutch
Flywheel
DS & PS Transmission Brackets
DS & PS Transmission rubber Mount
Transmission Mounting Ring
Transmission to motor bolts
Rear Drive shaft (a6 6 speed Specific)
Rear Diff (a6 6 speed specific)
Shifter Linkage
Shifter Box w/ internal Components
Shifter Boot (from a6)
Shifter Knob
Clutch Line w/ clips
Clutch Pedal assembly w/ switch and Pigtails
Slave Cylinder
Master Cylinder
A6 Specific Front Axles (Driverside & PassengerSide)

If the gearing is ideal, this could be a great setup. All of this plus your kit ends up somewhere just south of 5K, but after factoring in shipping costs it probably will end up over that figure.

TBH, if that is the mechanical cost, that is probably the more expensive factor. I'd assume some hefty expense for a ECU flash to compensate for not having the slushbox in there. All in all that isn't as bad as it really could be! Great work and keep it up!

I'll jump in with several comments on this and I'm sure Steve will have additional information to add as well.

01E - works from basically any application from a B5 or C5 car. You will want to pay special attention to the following items:
1.) Make sure you get the speed sensor - you need a 2.7 sensor as the RS6 one does not work
2.) Make sure you have the mounts supplied with the transmission are from a B5 or C5 as well. You will reuse the RS6 ZF soft mounts, not the 01E mounts.
3.) Gearing on transmissions is very important. The S4 trannys come with a 6th gear of .68 which will yield a 2300 RPM 60 MPH engine speed. You can also have different 5th and 6th gears installed. TDI spec gearing (from the European A6 TDI) has a .56 6th gear which yields a 1800 RPM 60 MPH speed. Definitely worth considering for this car.
4.) Differential. The standard A6/S4 transmission has a 3:1 bias. Look at changing that to a high rear bias 4:1 - cheap mod and puts more oomph to the back wheels.
5.) Make sure the 1&2 synchros have been done - or you'll be pulling it out again.

Rear Diff - Use the one with the car, assuming it's in good shape. The car comes with a 4.11, which is what you want (for the A6 platform).

You will need the following from a C5 6 speed manual donor car or from Audis4parts:
- drive shaft (and all bolts and seals)
- half shafts (make sure you have all bolts and seals and the CV boots are good)
- gear selector (make sure the shim is in the linkage)
- slave clutch line
- manual transmission spacer ring (if not using the adapter ring)
- transmission sound isolators (goes over the half shalf outputs
- prop shaft cover
- Pedal assembly
- six speed harness (check the age of the harness. The brake switch connector on the RS6 doesn't mate with the older brake switches. We actually replaced the switch).

You will need to source:
- flywheel (steel or aluminum depending on your preference), with bolts
- Clutch - S4 application, from your supplier of preference
- ECU software (this will develop more later).
- A piece of hose to attach the clutch master cylinder to the brake fluid reservoir (8mm), unless it cam with the kit.

How to do it - you have to make a choice of one of two routes for the conversion:
1.) With an adapter kit from Steve Kendrish - tidy, very well engineered and it takes a lok of guess work out of the equation. Requires use of an aftermarket starter motor.

2.) Raven MS - add a hole to the block for the starter and use the factory starter motor. Doesn't grab all the bolt position but seems to be enough. There's a cost savings with this route as you reuse the starter and the factory spacer.

Other things to be prepared for...
1.) Valve cover seals
2.) Cam tensioner seals
3.) Spark plugs
4.) Other broken stuff you will find
5.) O2 sensors (depending on your mileage)
6.) EGT sensors (depending on mileage)
7.) Delete SAI system - saves quite a bit of room on the passenger side. Needs ECU mod to remove CEL.

ECU Software
This is still a bit of a wildcard as there are a number of people working on this. I've not made a decision on the route I'm going at this point as I just want to get the mechanical stuff completed. More on this later.

Where to do it: You need to find a shop that knows what's going on. This is not a terrible project, but it does require some know how. Also, determine if you're going to drop out the engine or try a partial drop. From my experience, it's a lot faster with the engine drop. The other method certainly requires a lot less hose/line disconnecting and fluid draining, but my personal opinion is the pull allows a much better experience as well as being able to inspect a lot more of the engine.

I'll be putting together a more detailed document with pictures once I have my project completed, which should be very soon.

Also, unless you have some killer sources for parts - or get a great deal on a donor car, the 5K number will be pretty hard to hit for parts. Just the adapter kit and clutch will set you back 3K. From there you will need the C5 parts, a transmission (rebuilt or known to be good) and a variety of other parts (O2s and EGTs alone are 1K). I'll try include some budgetary numbers in my write up.

It's a great project and just driving the car briefly last Friday makes it all worth while.

[Mattionals]

I whole heartedly expected to be in somewhere close to 10 K. Finding a place to do the work is probably the biggest headache.

[Greg@DMtechnik]

If anyone needs work done in NY im here to do it, can do all 6 speed conversions, ecu tune, and build manifolds in house for any car :) PM ME

[Mattionals]

Greg,

When the time comes, you will likely get a PM! I am a bit of a pain though as I like to do parts of my own work! Maybe we could work something out where I could wrench and "supervise".

[Matt@ravenms]

Rear Diff - Use the one with the car, assuming it's in good shape. The car comes with a 4.11, which is what you want (for the A6 platform).


2.) Raven MS - add a hole to the block for the starter and use the factory starter motor. Doesn't grab all the bolt position but seems to be enough. There's a cost savings with this route as you reuse the starter and the factory spacer.


Funny, I check ETKA and I thought it was a 3.88 rear end(35/9 Teeth). Just double checked myself, and sure enough, it's 4.11(37/9 Teeth) Guess Tonight I'm pulling the Stock 2.7T diff, and putting in the RS6 Diff back in :)

I'm still using the main holes that Steve kit uses, trans thru spacer to engine. I'm using 8 bolts to hold tranny on. As for the Starter, it's a Stock A6 4.2L starter, not RS6 just to make clear. I added one hole for the Starter and shaved some material to clear starter. You save TONS of money by doing that vs building a Kit.

Glad to here the Steel Flywheel works great. I don't advise Alum for daily use. To hard to drive.

[TozoM8]

I'll jump in with several comments on this and I'm sure Steve will have additional information to add as well.

01E - works from basically any application from a B5 or C5 car. You will want to pay special attention to the following items:
1.) Make sure you get the speed sensor - you need a 2.7 sensor as the RS6 one does not work
2.) Make sure you have the mounts supplied with the transmission are from a B5 or C5 as well. You will reuse the RS6 ZF soft mounts, not the 01E mounts.
3.) Gearing on transmissions is very important. The S4 trannys come with a 6th gear of .68 which will yield a 2300 RPM 60 MPH engine speed. You can also have different 5th and 6th gears installed. TDI spec gearing (from the European A6 TDI) has a .56 6th gear which yields a 1800 RPM 60 MPH speed. Definitely worth considering for this car.
4.) Differential. The standard A6/S4 transmission has a 3:1 bias. Look at changing that to a high rear bias 4:1 - cheap mod and puts more oomph to the back wheels.
5.) Make sure the 1&2 synchros have been done - or you'll be pulling it out again.

Rear Diff - Use the one with the car, assuming it's in good shape. The car comes with a 4.11, which is what you want (for the A6 platform).

You will need the following from a C5 6 speed manual donor car or from Audis4parts:
- drive shaft (and all bolts and seals)
- half shafts (make sure you have all bolts and seals and the CV boots are good)
- gear selector (make sure the shim is in the linkage)
- slave clutch line
- manual transmission spacer ring (if not using the adapter ring)
- transmission sound isolators (goes over the half shalf outputs
- prop shaft cover
- Pedal assembly
- six speed harness (check the age of the harness. The brake switch connector on the RS6 doesn't mate with the older brake switches. We actually replaced the switch).

You will need to source:
- flywheel (steel or aluminum depending on your preference), with bolts
- Clutch - S4 application, from your supplier of preference
- ECU software (this will develop more later).
- A piece of hose to attach the clutch master cylinder to the brake fluid reservoir (8mm), unless it cam with the kit.

How to do it - you have to make a choice of one of two routes for the conversion:
1.) With an adapter kit from Steve Kendrish - tidy, very well engineered and it takes a lok of guess work out of the equation. Requires use of an aftermarket starter motor.

2.) Raven MS - add a hole to the block for the starter and use the factory starter motor. Doesn't grab all the bolt position but seems to be enough. There's a cost savings with this route as you reuse the starter and the factory spacer.

Other things to be prepared for...
1.) Valve cover seals
2.) Cam tensioner seals
3.) Spark plugs
4.) Other broken stuff you will find
5.) O2 sensors (depending on your mileage)
6.) EGT sensors (depending on mileage)
7.) Delete SAI system - saves quite a bit of room on the passenger side. Needs ECU mod to remove CEL.

ECU Software
This is still a bit of a wildcard as there are a number of people working on this. I've not made a decision on the route I'm going at this point as I just want to get the mechanical stuff completed. More on this later.

Where to do it: You need to find a shop that knows what's going on. This is not a terrible project, but it does require some know how. Also, determine if you're going to drop out the engine or try a partial drop. From my experience, it's a lot faster with the engine drop. The other method certainly requires a lot less hose/line disconnecting and fluid draining, but my personal opinion is the pull allows a much better experience as well as being able to inspect a lot more of the engine.

I'll be putting together a more detailed document with pictures once I have my project completed, which should be very soon.

Also, unless you have some killer sources for parts - or get a great deal on a donor car, the 5K number will be pretty hard to hit for parts. Just the adapter kit and clutch will set you back 3K. From there you will need the C5 parts, a transmission (rebuilt or known to be good) and a variety of other parts (O2s and EGTs alone are 1K). I'll try include some budgetary numbers in my write up.

It's a great project and just driving the car briefly last Friday makes it all worth while.

^^^^^^^^^I am TozoM8 and I approve this message ^^^^^^^^^^

[Aronis]

^^^^^^^^^I am TozoM8 and I approve this message ^^^^^^^^^^

LMAO!!!

Mike

[716YETI]

The posts listing all of the parts, pieces, etc are definately a huge help to guys like me that need to do something soon. I have only owned my RS6 for a short time and I pretty much hate the auto tranny. Not that I want to spend a ton of money right away but it would really make this one of the best cars on the road. Right now the auto tranny seems like a HUGE handicap. I have owned 14 Audis and this was the first auto I had purchased and I don't think I would ever purchase another.

[ttboost]

The posts listing all of the parts, pieces, etc are definately a huge help to guys like me that need to do something soon. I have only owned my RS6 for a short time and I pretty much hate the auto tranny. Not that I want to spend a ton of money right away but it would really make this one of the best cars on the road. Right now the auto tranny seems like a HUGE handicap.

Yep...keep it at 400-450whp and drive it forever...buy another car to hotrod...

[716YETI]

Yeah when I took delivery of the car it was not running properly(way down on power) and the tranny was "OK". After getting serious torque back it just surrenders.

[micdee]

After reading this thread a song comes in mind. Especially the chorus....: la gente esta muy loca What The F!ck .
In this case la gente esta: SteveKen, Carbonman and Matt@ravenms ... ;)

"LOCA PEOPLE -johnny, la gente esta muy loca What The F!ck -Sak Noel." (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgtwNm1TebU&feature=related)

Crazy sh!t. Again deep respect to do this all yourself. :dig::applause:

I still would like to have the RS6 remain with the TT, but as is proven over and over the TT is not really reliable with the increased torques.
I will also follow the thread of Amanda with the rebuild TC to see what the experiences are and if the box can keep up with the power.
What I am wondering, as there are many of you of course looking for solutions, is there not a better, new or improved automated box which can be used.
I.e. the S-tronic of the RS5?? Perhaps an easy fit?

[yokust]

What I am wondering, as there are many of you of course looking for solutions, is there not a better, new or improved automated box which can be used.
I.e. the S-tronic of the RS5?? Perhaps an easy fit?

Well the downfall of the DSG/Stronic trans, is they work very close with ecu, unlike our systems. So you would need to figure out how to make a bosch 7.1 ecu talk and work correctly in place of bosch 9.x ecu setup.

[micdee]

Ahhhh, so that would be a new challange for the tuners.. :hahahehe:

[SteveKen]

Ahhhh, so that would be a new challange for the tuners.. :hahahehe:

Like the current issue of 01E in this car isn't enough of a challenge already. . .

[micdee]

Like the current issue of 01E in this car isn't enough of a challenge already. . .

But of course ...

[716YETI]

Any updates on the swap?

[T-elospathic]

I have to say, I'm definitely intrigued by this conversion.. Not something I wanted to pioneer on my own, but this makes it much more conceivable to say the LEAST! All respect goes to the guy under his RS6 with barely enough clearance to even get the tranny in and out..

[SteveKen]

I've got issues that are related to the crank sensor now, so I'm very close. I'm running, but idling terrible due to cam sensor codes with the root cause being the crank sensor.

I'm back underneath the car to replace the crank sensor and hopefully will be running and testing things on the road by the weekend.

I've also got some interesting news that will need more vetting before I divulge. . .

Damn crank sensor ruins everything.

[hahnmgh63]

Steve, is the crank sensor on the manual in exactly the same place as the ZF? What if it was off a couple of degrees?

[SteveKen]

Well folks. The RS6 is back on the road. Rowing away.

I'm taking it easy thus far and will need to sort things out, but I'm loving it.

I'm currently running it without an exhaust and just downpipes so it sounds like NASCAR when I drive by. lol.

Anyway, I have more pics to upload when I get the chance, but here's the most important one to date:

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/hmmmmm.JPG

Surprisingly, I've driven about 10 miles and I do not have a CEL. Only the ABS and traction control is illuminated on the dash. SAI is deleted but not coded out yet either. Hmmm?

I haven't VAG'd it yet to see what going on, since I'm having fun enjoying the drive. I'll get back at it this weekend. I'm driving it from Pittsburgh, PA to Cary, NC. Anxious to see the mileage with the 0.56 6th gear.

I'm also having absolutely no issues with the aluminum flywheel. No chatter, shudder, noise, high idle, etc. 50% of the time when I'm stopped, I've got so much torque I can just lift the clutch pedal and go. I can't quite recall, but the idle is under 1k.

[speedtrapped]

Congrats Steve!

[MaxRS6]

Congrats Steve and I wish you cotinued success!

[ThrillHouse]

Amazing - I'm really interested in hearing it without an exhaust under load! Always good to hear, we put some new pipes on a friends Honda RC51 bike (I have one too) and he started it up without the pipes on... jaw dropping.

Yours is jaw dropping without even hearing it, amazing work on the project!!

[TozoM8]

Great job dude :)

[Aronis]

very nice!

(please reset the date on your clock! LOL)

Mike

[ben916]

Video or it didn't happen.... just saying... :)

[SteveKen]

Drove the RS6 from Pittsburgh to the Research Triangle area in NC on Friday.

Averaged around 26 MPG. .56 6th gear ftw.

I can't get very accurate on the fill ups b3ecause my rollover vale is leaking, so I was only putting 12.5 gallons in about every 320 - 340 miles.

Car is (was) running awesome with minor clutch slippage as I'm still breaking it in.

I'm really liking the setup and am oblivious to the fact I'm using an aluminum flywheel.

I had a setback with the shifter linkage that has it down and out until I can get the part (that I neglected to install) installed. Any of the 01E guys want to venture a guess what I did (actually didn't do)?

Hopefully, by the end of next weekend, I'll have everything well sorted.

[xuquan]

Pretty ambitious schedule you've set up for yourself, terrific luck to you!






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[TozoM8]

Can I guess:)

[SteveKen]

Can I guess:)

Not fair but sure, you can guess. I'll upload a picture soon.

[MaxRS6]

..I had a setback with the shifter linkage that has it down and out until I can get the part (that I neglected to install) installed. Any of the 01E guys want to venture a guess what I did (actually didn't do)?...

Gear knob...hangin dice...that's about it for my bank of knowledge..;0

Sounds like great progress and good luck with with the finishing details!

[JSRS6]

Was it the detent?

[SteveKen]

Without this wedge in the shift linkage on the trans side, the linkage eventually works loose and your shifter becomes inoperable and can move around like an Atari 2600 joystick (w/o the button)

http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/conversion/wedge.JPG

From the JHM site:

<img src="http://jhmotorsports.com/tech/pictures/Missing_Wedge_In_Linkage.jpg">

[JSRS6]

Bingo! :lovl:

[Carbonman]

Nice mileage numbers - that's almost exactly the results I'm seeing with my car on the road as well - 25-26 MPG at 75 MPH. Gotta love that! The .56 6th gear is definitely the right selection on this car.

[MaxRS6]

Dang- I was that close ""...;0

[ben916]

Dang- I was that close ""...;0

Lil-sis in the backseat?

[SteveKen]

JH Motorsports shifter is on it's way to me.


I'm going to make an effort to get some video/sound clips this weekend. Especially with the exhaust still removed.

Not sure if its the aluminum flywheel or just the fact that there is a flywheel, but blipping the throttle is fun. Quick revs and no more waiting for the rpms to decrease like with the slushbox.

[SteveKen]

Shim installed before the NC heat arrived this morning.

Back in business. . .

[MaxRS6]

Big Congrats Steve!- Looking forward to the updates/videos...00

[JSRS6]

yes...videos...with open downpipes...:hihi:

[SteveKen]

Videos are up at: http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/misc/open_exh/

Someone can post them up to a better site, as youtube and google are my enemies now, wanting to link accounts, etc.

Not that great of video, but I hope they help.

I actually tied and dangled the flip to the rear tow hook and maybe 25% of it turned out ok (rest is basically wind noise)

[Aronis]

that's a weird video! LOL... should have hot glued it in place upright! LOL..

Mike

[SteveKen]

Update:

The exhaust is back on and the car sounds super quiet now. I miss the NASCAR (any V8) rumble and roar already. I'm thinking of finding a shop to do some custom straight pipes the whole way back.

I'm going to do some ABS controller and ECU experimenting this weekend to get rid of the remaining faults.

I've got around 1400 miles on the car since the conversion and it's really running great and has a very stock feel. I'd confidently say that Audi could have sold them like this, as there's nothing special required to account for the beefier clutch, etc.

Wish me luck.

[skyegtb]

Been watching this with great interest. Good luck ironing out the final 'niggles'.

[SteveKen]

It took minimal effort for this stock alcantara boot, which perfectly matches headliner, and RS4 'air leather' knob that perfectly matches the steering wheel.

http://www.rs6.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=11626&stc=1

I didn't take the time to enlarge the opening and try to find the metal bezel from one of the manual C5 cars. This boot came from a B5, so teh backing piece and metal bezel wasn't a perfect fit. I'd end up painting, PC'ing or plasti-dipping it anyway, as there's no chrome in the interior.

The picture doesn't do it justice and I think it looks good as it is and will leave it this way. THe JHM shifter is nothing short of spectacular. Anything better would be pressing paddles. The short throw also allows minimal movement an stretching of the boot.

[716YETI]

I feel privileged to have driven one of the few 6 speeds today. :) It was nice meeting you and getting a chance to check out your car Steve.

[skribe]

I feel privileged to have driven one of the few 6 speeds today. :) It was nice meeting you and getting a chance to check out your car Steve.

moar deets please!

[716YETI]

He was in my area and I wanted to check out the conversion because I am seriously considering it for my car. No biggy really but, it was sureal having a third pedal in the RS6. lol

[kismetcapitan]

Update:

The exhaust is back on and the car sounds super quiet now. I miss the NASCAR (any V8) rumble and roar already. I'm thinking of finding a shop to do some custom straight pipes the whole way back

how loud was it when you weren't on the gas? Could you hold a conversation in the car while cruising at 80mph? I really want to shitcan every silencer in my exhaust, but then, I do want Lexus silence when I'm not caning the car so I can enjoy the stereo and talk with passengers. Yes, these are very contrary goals :P

[Elevens]

how loud was it when you weren't on the gas? Could you hold a conversation in the car while cruising at 80mph? I really want to shitcan every silencer in my exhaust, but then, I do want Lexus silence when I'm not caning the car so I can enjoy the stereo and talk with passengers. Yes, these are very contrary goals :P

Catless Non Res Milltek from Turbo's Straight back gives you just that. Nobody believes me, Its the only way to go with this Luxury Bullet...........................

[JSRS6]

Have you considered a pair of dump valves?

[milka]

Hey mate, how is the car going? Did you manage to sort out ECU etc?

[SteveKen]

Hey mate, how is the car going? Did you manage to sort out ECU etc?

The car has been running great. I've got 10k miles on it since the conversion.

The ECU is still being sorted. I sound like a broken record on this, but it is still ongoing.

I've been running it with the TCU unplugged and the ABS and traction control disabled. The ECU solution (when finished) will get this functional.

Otherwise, all is great.

[yagey]

Keep us posted, can't smog in Cali with a check engine light on...

[milka]

How did you end up wiring in the Clutch switch and reversing sensor? I have finally got everything back into the car and just need to finish off the electrics and any wiring needed.

[SteveKen]

Keep us posted, can't smog in Cali with a check engine light on...

The check engine light is not on. The ABS and traction control lights are on. I passed safety and emissions in Pennsylvania without any issues.

[milka]

Hey Steve, did you wire in the clutch switch and reversing sensor?

[Brav]

Hey Steve - I am heavily considering doing the manual swap - one of the bigger questions is which clutch to use. How do you like yours, and can you give some details about it? Anything you would do differently? You said it was smooth and no chatter, which is great. How is it holding?

[ben916]

Hey Steve - I am heavily considering doing the manual swap - one of the bigger questions is which clutch to use. How do you like yours, and can you give some details about it? Anything you would do differently? You said it was smooth and no chatter, which is great. How is it holding?

Chris, did you drive Riccardo's @ Raven? I didn't like the 6 puck clutch but I could envision that with the proper clutch, this is a potential project!
Where is Mr. Balsen when we need him?

[Brav]

Chris, did you drive Riccardo's @ Raven? I didn't like the 6 puck clutch but I could envision that with the proper clutch, this is a potential project!
Where is Mr. Balsen when we need him?

Sure did. I didn't like it either, and not sure they did. I spoke to Riccardo today actually, and they have their RS6 apart, and are putting a new style clutch in among other changes. So I hope to get feedback from Steve so I can make some bad decisions.

The problem I have is I found a PERFECT donor car within 10 miles of me.. CA car its life, no rust. A6 2.7TT 6 speed, pretty rough visually, but it drives and shifts perfectly. Close to 3k.. and I could sell the 2.7 and other misc parts to recoup costs. AHHH. What to do. I have more projects than I can shake a stick at..

Also trying to figure out the cost to rebuild the 01E? new syncros and shift collar from what I recall would be necessary. Anyone?

[kday]

I'm in the early phases of this project myself. So far just gathering parts, not turning wrenches. I went with the South Bend Stage 3, which I believe is what Steve is running also.

For the gearbox I went with an imported DQT from Europe, which the box from a TDI A6 with the tall 6th gear. I am going to roll the dice and not rebuild it. It was cheaper to get the TDI box than a used US unit plus the conversion parts for the 6th gear. I don't think the 6th gear from a 2.7t is a good fit.

[terrytcl]

i too have all of my parts together with exception to the adapter kit from steve and the main driveshaft. i also have to rebuid my 01E and am going with the taller 6th gear option.

looking to do this pretty soon, just waiting for the birth of our third child and things to settle in afterwards. :)

[ben916]

Sure did. I didn't like it either, and not sure they did. I spoke to Riccardo today actually, and they have their RS6 apart, and are putting a new style clutch in among other changes. So I hope to get feedback from Steve so I can make some bad decisions.

The problem I have is I found a PERFECT donor car within 10 miles of me.. CA car its life, no rust. A6 2.7TT 6 speed, pretty rough visually, but it drives and shifts perfectly. Close to 3k.. and I could sell the 2.7 and other misc parts to recoup costs. AHHH. What to do. I have more projects than I can shake a stick at..

Also trying to figure out the cost to rebuild the 01E? new syncros and shift collar from what I recall would be necessary. Anyone?

Have you spoken to Scotty @ Advanced Automation in TX?
He seems to be a decent resource about the 6 speed conversions on A6 2.7t and S4.

Also though his love/agnst for RS6 owners leaves something to be desired...

Also, I seem to remember something/post about the A6 TDI 5speed or 6speed from EU - that it is uber strong due to the TDI torque requirements.

EDIT: the TDI thread/post is not from kday, it was from Audizine...

[716YETI]

Scotty sold me the Southbend Stage 4 for my RS6 due to the torque my engine produces. I believe the tranny rebuild kit cost me about $1,100.00.

Brav; What didn't you like about the 6 puck?

[Brav]

Chatter and crappy engagement from a stop. Felt like it was having a seizure sometimes. Once rolling it was fine.

Is the tdi trans really stronger or just taller 6th?

[alrightroad]

Props from me for Scotty from Advanced. Though I have not purchased a tranny or rebuild kit from him I did buy some related items for my allroad 6MT manual swap/stage 3 project. He's exceptionally knowledgeable when it comes to the 01E and all the variations including the TDI box, 6th gear replacements and matching rear diff dicsussions.

Once I do the 6MT swap on the allroad I may be right behind you guys looking at the beast as the next victim. Hopefully by that time the ECU items will be worked out. Steve K, have you been touch with "Julex" over on Audiworld? His knowledge on motronic internals is pretty strong... I know he is active in Nefmoto site.

[SteveKen]

Scotty sold me the Southbend Stage 4 for my RS6 due to the torque my engine produces. I believe the tranny rebuild kit cost me about $1,100.00.

I've been driving the car with the SB Stg4 on and off for the last week. There is a slight shuddder when getting moving from a stop but its manageable when engaged at a higher rpm.

Thus far I'm happy with my SB Stg3 and aluminum flywheel, but there is some gear chatter. I'm going to try a new trans fluid recipe soon to see if it helps.

Thus far I've either driven or got reports on the following combinations and all report no driveability issues with my adapter:

SB Stg3 with aluminum flywheel
SB Stg4 with steel flywheel
SPEC with steel and aluminum flywheel
ZF Sachs with steel flywheel

Another thing to consider is that my adapter is 1.5mm thicker than the stock adapter, which might help with the engagement.

Shameless plug: kits still for sale. Steel flywheels in stock.

[Chung]

Time for me to start a parts list as well. I am not sure I am ready to spend the time and money on the conversion but I am close.

[kday]

Is the tdi trans really stronger or just taller 6th?

My understanding is that it has the wide and flexible first gear and the tall 6th. There are other 01Es with the wide/flexible 1st but not all of them do.

I am assuming that a gearbox from a diesel A6 was probably treated more gently than one from e.g. a B5 S4 also.

[kday]

BTW, Marc @ EFI Express has a few more of these imported DQT boxes available stateside.

[Brav]

I was going to buy a complete running A6 2.7T 6speed, and it drives and shifts beautifully. Doubt the A6 was flogged too bad.

[TozoM8]

Chatter and crappy engagement from a stop. Felt like it was having a seizure sometimes. Once rolling it was fine.

Is the tdi trans really stronger or just taller 6th?

Same here. I had it on my 6speed S8 and it was a love/hate thing. Hard to take off smooth, but you can dump it like crazy and it will hold.

[716YETI]

Nothing less would hold in my car.

[Brav]

Same here. I had it on my 6speed S8 and it was a love/hate thing. Hard to take off smooth, but you can dump it like crazy and it will hold.
so how is it i can drive a Z06 witghout incident? what are those clutches made from?

[716YETI]

So I picked up my car from Steve and yeah the South Bend stage 4 chatters pretty bad sometimes but sometimes it does not. I haven't had any time to play but I am hoping it gets a little better with time/experience. Definately waaaaaaaaaaaaay better than driving with that crappy autotragic transmission.

[Brav]

I was at Raven again today. I decided to wait for their next clutch package, which may be done in a few weeks. Will be more streatable and less chattery than the first one.. I am having a hard time justifying the expense at the moment, but I know I will hate myself for not doing it. Once I drive the new Raven clutch, I will post my findings :)

[716YETI]

Justifying? I have driven my car more in the last 3 days with the 6 speed than I did in the first year of ownership. I had no desire to drive it with the autotragic. Audi autos are the worst. True story.

[Brav]

Justifying? I have driven my car more in the last 3 days with the 6 speed than I did in the first year of ownership. I had no desire to drive it with the autotragic. Audi autos are the worst. True story.

Yes... I know. I'm working on it.

[716YETI]

I was just trying to help you justify it. :)

[mi021le]

Have you spoken to Scotty @ Advanced Automation
props... He's treated me so well. They rebuilt my rs4 trans and I changed 3rd, 4th, diesel 5th, diesel 6th. Works awesome and all. Full props.

[716YETI]

Yeah :0: to Scotty.

My 6 speed car just passed NYS inspection! HAPPY DAY!

[kismetcapitan]

Yeah :0: to Scotty.

My 6 speed car just passed NYS inspection! HAPPY DAY!

congrats!! btw do you have ABS and ESC working?

[716YETI]

Thanks, big load off my chest errr back.

ABS and ESC lights are on, not a big deal... to me. Very small trade off for such awesomeness. :D

[ben916]

please clarify:
CEL off
ABS indicator on
ESC indicator on

did the emissions test via OBDII port or tail pipes?

[716YETI]

CEL came back on because it is still looking for the autotragic transmission, it was off when it was inspected. There is no "sniffer" test outside of NYC in NYS, I don't see why it would not have passed that though.
So yeah, all 3 are on now.

[lswing]

So the ABS and ESC lights are on, not too bad, but do ABS and ESC function?

[716YETI]

I don't believe so because they are somehow tied to the autotragic transmission which no longer exists. I will test that theory next time it rains. :)

[vtraudt]

Need to start reading through the entire thread, but 2 quick questions (partially unrelated):
a) What is considered the safe (meaning it will last a bit) max torque for the O1E?
b) Is the hole/line in the turbo inlet pipe (round, held in place with 'ear bolt') the EVAP return line? With turbos out, would like to plug (and eliminate the EVAP, charcoal tank, N80, etc.) and tune out. Ditto EGR/Kombi valve later.

[Avus-RS6]

No reason not to expect to get 50k to 100k miles on a well driven rs6 making 600-700+ft lbs at the wheels with o1e. Clutch dump launches will help shorten its life as well as missed shifts.

[salukifan]

No reason not to expect to get 50k to 100k miles on a well driven rs6 making 600-700+ft lbs at the wheels with o1e. Clutch dump launches will help shorten its life as well as missed shifts.
Yea nobody would ever want to dump the clutch to go 0-60 in 2.7 seconds.:incar:

[vtraudt]

No reason not to expect to get 50k to 100k miles on a well driven rs6 making 600-700+ft lbs at the wheels with o1e. Clutch dump launches will help shorten its life as well as missed shifts.

Good to know, thanks.

Currently building my friends RS6 (billet turbos, SMIC, DP, exhaust) but will be on stock TC and stock tranny for a while.

Need to determine how much I need to detune/cap the torque. The ZF 5Hp24A has the larger bell housing (to accommodate the larger TC, but the tranny is pretty much standard 5HP24. Even raising the line pressure (more torque capacity from the clutches) will put more stress on the baskets, ditto the firmer shifts. Thinking maybe cap low/mid range boost to 20 psi and then gradually raise to 22 psi (stock MAP limit).

Haven't found much real world experience on maxing out the tranny/TC. If anyone has seen high torque Tiptronic builds, I would love to see.

Finding and swapping trannies is no easy task, so need to err on the safe side until ready for manual swap.

[lswing]

Upgraded clutch packs, increased line/valve body pressure, MTM TCU tune, everything buttoned up good and tight. I broke that setup in 8 months possibly doing too many 0-80 WOT runs, power listed in my sig. I've found more than 18psi on stock turbos they spool out to quick. Running ~16psi boost doesn't come on too hard and carries higher into RPMs. Stronger pulling car instead of giant torque down low, also reducing torque hit on trans, some of my reasoning. Anyhow, just keep your foot out of too many WOT shifts and it will hold up much longer. You can break a trans in three months or three years depending on how it's driven.

[vtraudt]

Good info and tips, thank you. What DID you break? 450 awtq is about 550 cTQ. Darn, that is low. On mild stage 1 (15 psi), currently at around 460 cTQ fairly linear sloping to 420 cTQ at 6200 rpm (could run to redline due to speed in 3rd). Was hoping to go to at least 600 cTQ. Will definitely keep the boost low (maybe the 16 psi you suggest) down low, and then ramp up. Capping at 550 cTQ but holding (we'll see) to redline (7200) would net 750 cHP. Wish there were a quick shifting auto tranny that could hold the torque. The V12 TDI has stock 1000 Nm, but I don't think the Zf 6HP32X it will bolt up/fit, and then controlling (TCU) it. Just dreaming. The (some US once around) V10 TDI has stock 550 lb*ft, the R50 850 Nm/630 lb*ft.

[lswing]

You figure roughly 125 more torque being produced by the engine from my settings. The auto has broken under stock power, which is decent, so you add the extra and even with reinforcements bad things can happen. Not really sure I'd say it's low on power, it's all relative:) Never found what was broken, the trans just stopped holding power in third gear and would jump to 4th under WOT at it's peak torque point. I assume glazed clutches from getting hot as there was never a large amount of clutch material in the trans fluid.

[vtraudt]

I guess 01E swap is the only way out (but even those break when torque gets really 'up there' (and abuse, naturally). I am currently limited by stock rods, but even I cringe from the thought of activating launch control (turbos spooled up) and dropping the (6 puck) clutch. Maybe need to get skinny tires (like 185 wide) and let them become the clutch for launching!

[ttboost]

Good to know, thanks.

Currently building my friends RS6 (billet turbos, SMIC, DP, exhaust) but will be on stock TC and stock tranny for a while.

Need to determine how much I need to detune/cap the torque. The ZF 5Hp24A has the larger bell housing (to accommodate the larger TC, but the tranny is pretty much standard 5HP24. Even raising the line pressure (more torque capacity from the clutches) will put more stress on the baskets, ditto the firmer shifts. Thinking maybe cap low/mid range boost to 20 psi and then gradually raise to 22 psi (stock MAP limit).

Haven't found much real world experience on maxing out the tranny/TC. If anyone has seen high torque Tiptronic builds, I would love to see.

Finding and swapping trannies is no easy task, so need to err on the safe side until ready for manual swap.

With those mods, you will not be on the stock transmission & TC "for a while". It will be considerably shorter than a while. Also, with stock turbine housings, anything more than 15-16psi is just netting you more hot air and way less timing. If you "billet" turbos are NOT utilizing the stock turbine side, you should be good for more boost.

[Turbowned]

@716YETI, if you're ever in MA, I would kill to get a ride in your car!

[vtraudt]

With those mods, you will not be on the stock transmission & TC "for a while". It will be considerably shorter than a while. Also, with stock turbine housings, anything more than 15-16psi is just netting you more hot air and way less timing. If you "billet" turbos are NOT utilizing the stock turbine side, you should be good for more boost.

Yeah, will have to bring the torque up slowly.

Turbo is fine, no worries there. Built and running plenty of them. Just not on 'fragile' tranny.

"Hot air" is generated by the compressor side. Running a compressor outside its high efficiency range (shown as efficiency lines in % on compressor maps) results in 'hot air'. At 50% efficiency, half of the input energy (the turbine is the 'motor', driving the compressor) is converted into heat, and only the other half into pressure increase. Our setup would not have any issues running WAY past the 22 psi (stock MAP) limit. I am also pretty sure the internals (Cosworth surely didn't skimp on the goodies) are quite strong. So the engine is good for plenty of torque and power. No worries there.

[ttboost]

Yeah, will have to bring the torque up slowly.

Turbo is fine, no worries there. Built and running plenty of them. Just not on 'fragile' tranny.

"Hot air" is generated by the compressor side. Running a compressor outside its high efficiency range (shown as efficiency lines in % on compressor maps) results in 'hot air'. At 50% efficiency, half of the input energy (the turbine is the 'motor', driving the compressor) is converted into heat, and only the other half into pressure increase. Our setup would not have any issues running WAY past the 22 psi (stock MAP) limit. I am also pretty sure the internals (Cosworth surely didn't skimp on the goodies) are quite strong. So the engine is good for plenty of torque and power. No worries there.

I also have a lot of experience working with and fabricating turbo systems, and understand the difference between hot and cold sides. I also know how to read a compressor map. I guess my point about the turbine side is it's so unbelievably small on this engine, it's easy to over spin, which in turn over spins your compressor. Sorry I wasn't clear, I thought this was assumed. I agree with your lower boost mentality, as we tried to big boost route too, only to find it plummet like a stone after 4k, which we thought it would do, but had to prove it. Was worse with the 6 speed manual, quicker revving and all...

[SteveKen]

Typically the axles break before the 01E.

Launching isn't all it's cracked up to be, especially with 1st gear being so short. First gear is cut on the main shaft so re-gearing is not feasible at all.

2nd and 3rd is when the torque tries to shove your chubby cheeks into your ear canals :)

[fukinavit]

I hate the 1st gear on the 01e, complete waste, drives me nuts, I pray someone finds an auto fix before I ever want to put that in mine

[salukifan]

I hate the 1st gear on the 01e, complete waste, drives me nuts, I pray someone finds an auto fix before I ever want to put that in mine
Can you launch in second?

[fukinavit]

I would think not, not without a lot of slippage. can't speak for the RS6, I have the 6 speed In my 2.7t.

[s8prtotype]

Anyone ever look into the billet flywheels from TTV? Kind of a middle ground between aluminum and steel... Price is pretty nice for other models.... They actually have a RS6/V8 listing...

http://ttvracing.com/engine-types/?manufacturers=audi&type=flywheels#prettyPhoto

[SteveKen]

Anyone ever look into the billet flywheels from TTV? Kind of a middle ground between aluminum and steel... Price is pretty nice for other models.... They actually have a RS6/V8 listing...

http://ttvracing.com/engine-types/?manufacturers=audi&type=flywheels#prettyPhoto

Initial flywheels I had made were a little heavier than these at 8.2kg and the consensus was that, combined with the available appropriate clutch kits, there was too much noise.

The steel units I currently have produced are around 11kg and it seems to work well.

It's much easier to make an aluminum flywheel, so many are hesitant to do them in all steel. I, however, take the road less traveled....

[BigD2500HD]

sorry to bring up an old thread... but i'm about to tackle this on my rs6. my question is about labor time. It will be done in a full German specific maintenance and performance shop, so everything will be as easy to do as possible(not on jacks and all the right tools). how much time am i looking at ifall goes as planned?

[BigD2500HD]

.... oh and Steve... i need a conversion kit. :-)

[Other_Erik]

sorry to bring up an old thread... but i'm about to tackle this on my rs6. my question is about labor time. It will be done in a full German specific maintenance and performance shop, so everything will be as easy to do as possible(not on jacks and all the right tools). how much time am i looking at ifall goes as planned?

All depends on what else you plan on doing besides the basic kit.

Rough labor time if everything comes apart and goes back together without a hitch - expect your car to be on the lift, engine on a hoist for ~30 hours labor.

From there, add in time for stuff going awry, can easily be added days of storage while you wait for replacement parts to be forged from the rarest of metals known to man and then shipped from the wooded hills of Deutschland, then added hours of labor to sort whatever's gone wrong.

While you're doing the conversion, what else are you going to find? Seeping seals and gaskets can easily add tens of hours to the labor cost, unless the shop you're going with has an owner who's willing to let you tinker while parts trickle in. Freshen up at the same time with little stuff like Bufkin pipe, R8 coils and adapter, Stern/Apikol motor mounts, poly diff mounts for reducing driveline lash (you'll really want that going to the 01E), etc... it all adds up!

You're in The People's Democratic Republic of California per your profile, so no dice on gutting precats, but you can help get your engine bay temp down by having the headers/collectors/downpipes bead blasted, ceramic coated, and wrapped with Ti exhaust wrap, and a nice blanket on each of the snails will finish off that piece of the job. Speaking of snails, now's a great time to check for excessive shaft play (rebuild imminent if so), and consider going with Wagner IC kit for better temp deltas.

Since you're going to need the proper tune for manual, you'll probably be looking at what you can get away with WRT the SAI, EGR, EVAP, etc... I'm not 100% on how CA does their CARB stuff, but here in VA (DC area) with the emissions inspection every 2 years, eliminating things that should show up in readiness causes automatic failure & and order to fix and re-inspect at cost.

TL;DR version: 30 hours labor minimum if everything goes to plan. Which it probably won't.

HTH
O_E

[urs6ville]

sorry to bring up an old thread... but i'm about to tackle this on my rs6. my question is about labor time. It will be done in a full German specific maintenance and performance shop, so everything will be as easy to do as possible(not on jacks and all the right tools). how much time am i looking at ifall goes as planned?

Assume there are other CA cars with 01E conversion? There are states where these conversions have been flagged by emissions.. and based on CA being the top dog of the hard asses when it comes to emissions, just curious.

good luck with conversion

[SteveKen]

.... oh and Steve... i need a conversion kit. :-)

I sent you a PM on this with my contact info for more details.

[ttboost]

I think Raven has done a bunch of them now? I would imagine they would have them sorted?

[sempaipaul]

I'm back at it and SAI is removed and so are the aux radiators.

It's unbelievable how much stuff there is just to add the two radiators.

http://www.rs6.com/%3Cimg%20src=http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/misc/aux_rads.JPG

Since the engine was out, I removed everything and really only retained #19 & #36 from everything above. I had to drop the steering rack to remove #32, but it wasn't bad at all.

Anyway, #36 is a group of short hoses and custom elbows that looked like I made it. Without buying the non-hot weather package replacements, I decided to plug the tube at the elbow. Another plug was required at #19 where tube #18 goes.

I found these caps, which hopefully should work:
http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/misc/SAI/sai_caps.JPG

Here they are installed on the two components:
http://www.kendrish.com/galleries/RS6/misc/SAI/sai_caps_installed.JPG

Hi all. This is the set up i've been running for quite sometime; however, the darn caps from napa keep ruining, cracking, etc. causing coolant seeps. Does anyone know what the factory part numbers are for those metal lines (shown in pics above) without the outlets/inlets for the aux cooler hoses that are now deleted? Or, a source for better caps that don't crap out?

Thanks!
Paul

[P1054]

I had the same issue with the rubber caps. After the first set started leaking, I decided to braze some copper caps on instead. It has now been several years (five?) and a lot of miles, and they’re still holding up great. Aluminum caps would probably be better since the lines are aluminum, but copper ones were more readily available.

[hahnmgh63]

Brazing them shut would have probably been best but I used Silicone caps from 034 Motorsports. Much better quality than the NAPA caps.

[SteveKen]

Brazing them shut would have probably been best but I used Silicone caps from 034 Motorsports. Much better quality than the NAPA caps.

Which ones did you use? 3/8" ID for the front one and 1/2" ID for the rear one?

I looked high an low for these about a year ago and ended up sticking with the rubber heater hose caps. Never thought to check 034. I wonder if they make them? Since I can't find anything comparable anywhere else?

Also, you can source the necessary hard pipes from a UK car or one that was spec'd without the hot weather package and not need the caps at all. I had these on them S6 Avant conversion.

[sempaipaul]

I had the same issue with the rubber caps. After the first set started leaking, I decided to braze some copper caps on instead. It has now been several years (five?) and a lot of miles, and they’re still holding up great. Aluminum caps would probably be better since the lines are aluminum, but copper ones were more readily available.

Did you have to take both pipes out to do that?

any chance you could snap and share some pics?

[P1054]

I had both pipes out, yes. It was done during the manual conversion. I don’t have any photos, but I’ll see if I can get some.

[bethridg]

Front pipe is galvanized(?) steel; it's magnetic. I cut off the nipple and welded it shut after replacing the rubber caps multiple times.


https://i.imgur.com/q9F2Erb.gif

[SteveKen]

Front pipe is galvanized(?) steel; it's magnetic. I cut off the nipple and welded it shut after replacing the rubber caps multiple times.


https://i.imgur.com/q9F2Erb.gif

Did you do something similar to the crazy elbow piece near the coolant reservoir, too? I think it might be cast aluminum though.

[bethridg]

Did you do something similar to the crazy elbow piece near the coolant reservoir, too? I think it might be cast aluminum though.

It did cross my mind...but I don't have anything to weld aluminum yet. Still rocking the rubber caps at that location. Should look into those silicone caps hahnmgh63 mentioned above. I go into panic mode when I start smelling coolant only to find the caps split again.