Just joined, just purchased a 2003 RS6 [Archive] - RS6.com

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716YETI

April 6th, 2011, 00:06

Long story short I purchased the car 3 weeks ago and it has spent most of its time parked. When I test drove the car it pulled hard until it ran low on meth and the red LED came on. The owner had over $20,000.00 of invoices that covered just about anything you could think of except intercoolers. Since the car was delivered the green "spray on" LED pretty much never came on. The shop I took it to found the intercoolers to both be leaking and the spark plugs were shot. The boost is only at 3psi which I am hoping is because of the leaks. At 3psi the spray won't come on (obviously not needed.). Not a good experience so far but...

Any advice on intercoolers or anything else is greatly appreciated.

Edit: The car dyno'd at only 268awhp. :(

JSRS6

April 6th, 2011, 00:12

Location?

You can get the Wagner kit for around 1800, or the intercoolers only for about 1k. The car is definitely not running right. When it it, you will need to buy a lot of Methanol. The rs6 bug is definitely making it's rounds today! Oh and welcome to the club!

716YETI

April 6th, 2011, 00:19

Thanks. Yeah the guy had Mustang Dyno (which read notoriously low) sheets that showed over 550 ft-lbs of torque. At this point my ALLROAD was faster. lol :( The car ripped when I test drove it. :gotme:

The ad is still up 3 weeks later for some reason...
http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?ct=p&car_id=294936599&dealer_id=66076267&car_year=2003&systime=&doors=&model=RS6&search_lang=en&start_year=1981&keywordsfyc=&keywordsrep=&highlightFirstMakeModel=&search_type=both&distance=500&min_price=&rdm=1302046267533&drive=&marketZipError=false&advanced=&fuel=&keywords_display=&lastBeginningStartYear=1981&end_year=2012&showZipError=y&make2=&certified=&engine=&page_location=findacar%3A%3Aispsearchform&body_code=0&transmission=&default_sort=newsortbyprice_DESC&max_mileage=&color=&address=14052&sort_type=priceDESC&max_price=&awsp=false&make=AUDI&seller_type=b&num_records=25&cardist=273&standard=false

PALETTE

April 6th, 2011, 00:40

Very nice looking! aaaaaaaa Meth......... Love it lol. Call epl and scan the car for codes. See if there isn't something you just can't see. Have you refilled the Meth?

716YETI

April 6th, 2011, 00:47

Thanks.
I refilled the meth and had the pump tested because it seemed to be the problem but, it is not spraying because the car is only putting out 3psi of boost. The boost is the issue. It scares me a little that epl has locked (or whatever) the ecu so my local shop can't access it.

ben916

April 6th, 2011, 00:50

welcome!!!!

can you check the hoses? maybe one/two came off???

EDIT: VIN please :) Just the last 6 digits

716YETI

April 6th, 2011, 00:54

My local shop tested for leaks already, the intercoolers are leaking.

vitalian

April 6th, 2011, 00:59

Welcome, good luck with the troubleshooting and repairs, and may you and the beast have many happy miles!.

716YETI

April 6th, 2011, 01:05

Thanks.
I hope so, although so far it has cost me about $1000.00/mile. Let's hope that ratio changes rapidly. lol

PALETTE

April 6th, 2011, 02:09

716YETI

April 6th, 2011, 02:38

Will do, thanks.

speedtrapped

April 6th, 2011, 03:02

Go with the wagners, trust me the stock eventually leak. I know apikol also makes IC's for our cars.

mmaturo

April 6th, 2011, 03:23

Yikes. That's sucks. Mine stock is 395 on a Mustang dyno a few years ago stock. Hope you can get it fixed quickly.

DHall1

April 6th, 2011, 04:42

Leaking intercoolers may not be the cause of 3psi of boost.

Have you scanned the ecu? Do you have a vag com? If so, please data log 3-31-115 log blocks on a wot 3rd gear pull.

Long story short I purchased the car 3 weeks ago and it has spent most of its time parked. When I test drove the car it pulled hard until it ran low on meth and the red LED came on. The owner had over $20,000.00 of invoices that covered just about anything you could think of except intercoolers. Since the car was delivered the green "spray on" LED pretty much never came on. The shop I took it to found the intercoolers to both be leaking and the spark plugs were shot. The boost is only at 3psi which I am hoping is because of the leaks. At 3psi the spray won't come on (obviously not needed.). Not a good experience so far but...

Any advice on intercoolers or anything else is greatly appreciated.

Edit: The car dyno'd at only 268awhp. :(

4everRS

April 6th, 2011, 05:01

Dave, I was waiting for you to say VAG COM.
Leaking intercoolers may not be the cause of 3psi of boost.

Have you scanned the ecu? Do you have a vag com? If so, please data log 3-31-115 log blocks on a wot 3rd gear pull.

DHall1

April 6th, 2011, 05:03

LOL

Everything else is just spinning wheels.

Dave, I was waiting for you to say VAG COM.

716YETI

April 6th, 2011, 12:46

I hear you. The problem is my regular Audi expert has VAGCOM but no dyno the other shop has the dyno but no VAGCOM. Unfortunately here in The Buffalo NY area car enthusiasts have very limited resources.

Leaking intercoolers may not be the cause of 3psi of boost.

Have you scanned the ecu? Do you have a vag com? If so, please data log 3-31-115 log blocks on a wot 3rd gear pull.

MaxRS6

April 6th, 2011, 13:12

^ I suggest you purchase a VagCom if you plan on owning this car. There will be many opportuntities to utilize it for information. I scan the car routinely for codes and information. It can help in early detection of issues and allows you to clear misc. engine codes without the need for a trip to the tech.

Good luck with a resolution!

skribe

April 6th, 2011, 14:46

Nice looking sled. Got to clear the corners.

My hypothesis: Your car is in a soft limp mode. Get a VAG-COM and log the blocks like Dave said and I suspect you'll find actual boost spiking beyond requested, otherwise known as overboost. That creates intake air flow way beyond acceptable parameters and triggers the ECU to cut boost to 3-5 psi max. This can be the result of a bad N75 valve, hardware problems with the lines to and/or the wastegates themselves, or a poorly resolved custom tune that's got your boost curve jacked up. This state wont' trigger a CEL, and won't even typically throw error codes, so it can confound diagnosis. Clearing codes with Vag-com won't fix it either.

Do a hillbilly reset: disconnect the negative battery terminal for a minute and reconnect. Your boost will be back for ~ 250 miles. Don't drive it around like that, find and fix the underlying problem, there's a reason your ECU is tapping out and you will fry something expensive if you don't.

SteveKen

April 6th, 2011, 16:12

In the Buffalo area, I would recommend you try Black Forest Motor Sports.

http://www.blackforestmotorsport.com/

Jason should be able to help you out.

DHall1

April 6th, 2011, 17:46

Skribe

I don't care what Pat says about you. You know how to hit the nail on the head.

There is no need for the dyno. That is what the road is for and the vag will take care of the rest.

Get data logs before you go hillbilly

Nice looking sled. Got to clear the corners.

My hypothesis: Your car is in a soft limp mode. Get a VAG-COM and log the blocks like Dave said and I suspect you'll find actual boost spiking beyond requested, otherwise known as overboost. That creates intake air flow way beyond acceptable parameters and triggers the ECU to cut boost to 3-5 psi max. This can be the result of a bad N75 valve, hardware problems with the lines to and/or the wastegates themselves, or a poorly resolved custom tune that's got your boost curve jacked up. This state wont' trigger a CEL, and won't even typically throw error codes, so it can confound diagnosis. Clearing codes with Vag-com won't fix it either.

Do a hillbilly reset: disconnect the negative battery terminal for a minute and reconnect. Your boost will be back for ~ 250 miles. Don't drive it around like that, find and fix the underlying problem, there's a reason your ECU is tapping out and you will fry something expensive if you don't.

716YETI

April 6th, 2011, 17:48

^^^That sounds like great info based on what I am experiencing.
^^I know Jason pretty well. I took it to the other shop because I was thinking it was the meth injection and they are very good with that.

Isn't VAGCOM huge money? I am going back many years but I thought it was like $5000.(?)

JSRS6

April 6th, 2011, 18:37

Lol, must have been awhile...

Professional Kits
VCDS Ultra Professional Kit - $1,199.00
VCDS 2-Tech Professional Kit - $899.00
VCDS Professional Kit - $599.00

Enthusiast Systems
VCDS License with HEX-USB+CAN Interface - $349.00 * The one you want if you plan on getting or already have a newer(all 04+) audi as well *
VCDS License with HEX-COM+CAN Interface - $329.00
VCDS License with KII-USB Interface - $249.00 * The one you want if you only need it for The Beast *
VCDS License with Micro-CAN Interface - $249.00
VCDS-Lite Software Registration - $99.00

http://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS.html

716YETI

April 6th, 2011, 18:39

Umm yeah. lol

Elevens

April 6th, 2011, 21:30

Welcome Mr 716YETI. That's a mean looking ride. Must have something to do with the Color. Any way below is a photo of the HEX-USB+CAN VAG-COM interface with the USB cable for visual reference. I suggest the USB interface because there are very few Laptops or computers with the Serial interfaces any more. And as everyone above mentioned it is an invaluable tool with any VAG car such as ours. Good luck in resolving the issues you have with the car at this time. And yes Daytona Grey is the Fastest color....................

http://i831.photobucket.com/albums/zz237/vintron/P1010539.jpg

PALETTE

April 6th, 2011, 22:28

716YETI

April 7th, 2011, 02:57

skribe

April 7th, 2011, 15:03

You SO need vag-com... even if money's tight post-purchase, buy it now if at all possible... in five minutes you could have codes to post here to help you figure this out.

PALETTE

April 7th, 2011, 18:03

Cool, thanks, I may take you up on that offer. I picked up the car tonight from the shop that diagnosed the leaks. It hurts spending all of that money and getting the car back in the same (or worse) condition but, oh well. The car seemed to run perfectly before, it just had no power. Now that I picked it up the CEL is on. Ugh.

Anytime, Let me know. If need be the shop i use is very good and lend a hand. Guessing a o2 Sensor/mass air and has toss the car in Limp mode.. Any thoughts guys?

716YETI

April 7th, 2011, 19:01

I was looking at the plug thread so I checked the old plugs and they are .030"+
I will check the new plugs they installed to be sure they are only .025"

716YETI

April 8th, 2011, 04:10

I downloaded the software and now I just have to wait for the cable to arrive.

716YETI

April 12th, 2011, 00:18

So is this some of you DUDES from RS6.com?!? Bitchin! Intense! Money bro! :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLzNOficZaw

JSRS6

April 12th, 2011, 01:55

Ummm, anyone know who did that vid?

4everRS

April 12th, 2011, 02:52

Saw that vid a while back. What a bunch of tools.

PALETTE

April 12th, 2011, 03:49

716YETI, that is one of our most prolific members, Dave Hall.

He's always saying, "the breaks are money." Yeah, he even misspells "brakes" as "breaks" when he says it out loud somehow.

He also loves jersey metal bands and refuses to register his shareware video editing software. Two more dead giveaways that this is his vid.

Cats out of the bag now!

V8weight

April 12th, 2011, 04:50

JSRS6

April 12th, 2011, 05:07

Holy shit Skribe, I think I just soiled myself laughing............

I KNOW I did...hahaha!

Ruergard

April 12th, 2011, 07:16

Oh my.... :doh:

716YETI

April 12th, 2011, 14:15

I thought it was funny because I thought it was a joke but then I realized...

vitalian

April 12th, 2011, 15:09

I thought it was funny because I thought it was a joke but then I realized...

You think it's a joke, but it isn't a joke, which makes it more of a joke. Therefore, it's a METAJOKE, which means it's metafunny.

(I think I just pulled something in my brain as I was typing that.)

716YETI

April 12th, 2011, 23:39

By the way, I got my daughter hooked Pella-napapapy Pitstop.

Ok so I received my vagcom cable today and the code I got was 17481 - Mass Air Flow Sensor 2 (G246): Signal too Low ...
The funny thing is my car ran great until the shop I took it to decided to solder(resolder) the plug for the mas air flow. I would bet my paycheck that they will say it has nothing to do with it. Keep in mind the CEL never came on before I dropped off at their shop. Whatever. So now what?
Thanks for any help guys!

vitalian

April 13th, 2011, 00:06

By the way, I got my daughter hooked Pella-napapapy Pitstop.

Ok so I received my vagcom cable today and the code I got was 17481 mas air flo too low. The funny thing is my car ran great until the shop I took it to decided to solder(resolder) the plug for the mas air flow. I would bet my paycheck that they will say it has nothing to do with it. Keep in mind the CEL never came on before I dropped off at their shop. Whatever. So now what?

As it so happens, I had a very similar incident very recently! Took my beast to the dealership (I have a warranty) to replace the starter, which died 4 days after I bought the car. Changing the starter involves dropping the engine, then putting everything back together again. When they put it back together, they seated the air filter assembly (also called the "air box") incorrectly. The car ran very poorly, sluggish acceleration, rough idle, not much boost, etc. Also, the CEL came on after I drove it for about 20 miles give or take. They re-seated the air box, and now car runs great. Check it out -- might be your problem too. Good news is it's an easy fix that doesn't take much time.

And your daughter has very good taste in cartoons! (*wink*)

716YETI

April 13th, 2011, 00:28

^Thanks, I will definately check it out! (Fingers crossed.)

716YETI

April 13th, 2011, 01:03

I just pulled the air filter assembly thing off and there is a fine green wire pulled from the plug. How can I get the pin out to reattach it?

ben916

April 13th, 2011, 18:58

Not 100% sure what do in that.
The MAF connections/cable/wiring harness is extremely tight for me so I plan on putting a jumper in there so I can disconnect it without having two people, just me.
If you need the part numbers for a new MAF connector, please let me know.

MaxRS6

April 13th, 2011, 19:02

^ Wheeeeee

http://tasithoughts.files.wordpress.com/2010/03/down_the_rabbit_hole4.jpg

ben916

April 13th, 2011, 19:06

^ Wheeeeee

You just HAD to go there.... :)

11263

716YETI

April 13th, 2011, 20:20

I don't understand all of the posts on here but many are very useful. lol
Thanks guys.

speedtrapped

April 13th, 2011, 20:31

716YETI

April 13th, 2011, 21:15

I was thinking about leaving it in pieces parked outside overnight but, then I thought about all of the woodland creatures that would love to move in to the nice, warm, outlets.

ben916

April 13th, 2011, 22:23

lolololollol....as per Ben's rabbit hole expeirence, the engineers did a bang up job, jammed MAF harness plugs under and behind the airbox. I think you will have to remove the red connector from the MAF plug and maybe soder back on, I am pretty sure the wires get crimped into the red plug....oh yeah before any of this cover those turbo inlets with rags.....Ben...

COVER your MAF to turbo inlet tubes!!!!!
I still have those pesky guides and will more than likely create a shadow box for that part AND the fecking DRC...

JSRS6

April 13th, 2011, 22:26

Shadow box, with an Audi flag folded up and a spare rs6 emblem...

ben916

April 13th, 2011, 22:28

yeah and hopefully the DRC doesn't spew all over the place...

716YETI

April 15th, 2011, 23:28

Any recommendations on intercoolers? Mine leak and I am pretty sure I will end up buying new ones.

JSRS6

April 15th, 2011, 23:56

Any recommendations on intercoolers? Mine leak and I am pretty sure I will end up buying new ones.

Either reseal your stock ones, or get the wagners.

skribe

April 16th, 2011, 00:01

Wagners are the go-to on this board, but as anybody done the Apikols? They look verrrrry nice.

716YETI

April 16th, 2011, 00:36

I saw the thread with Wagners for $1550 but that was almost a year ago. I will have to check on current pricing.

716YETI

May 15th, 2011, 02:08

skribe

May 15th, 2011, 03:42

The new wagners are in and the car still isn't right. It is only making 6lbs of boost which is waaaaay too low. I guess there is a leak under the MAFs which is screwing things up. I now have spent over $3000 in the first 100 miles of ownership and the car is still slow, not encouraging. :(

Has the car EVER delivered boost since you took ownership?

I still think you're probably limping due to an overboost condition. That has nothing to do with leaking intercoolers. Did you disconnect the battery for a minute and reconnect?

716YETI

May 15th, 2011, 05:04

2 different experts have worked on it and said, IT IS NOT IN LIMP MODE!" I am confident it is the MAF leak condition or bad MAF sensor based on what I was told.
What do you mean by overboost? I now have a boost gage and the car never goes above 6. Would an overboost condition at least show a spike?

JSRS6

May 15th, 2011, 05:07

What he was saying was an initial overboost putting the car in limp mode. You wouldn't see the overboost again due to limp mode. Have you logged the car?

V8weight

May 15th, 2011, 05:35

Your N75 valve for some reason is out of the equation. Your running on the wastegates. Have to tested the N75 valve? Wiring to? Hoses from the N75 to the wastegate actuators?

DHall1

May 15th, 2011, 05:46

I guess may not is now are not.

Vag is 249 or just keep spinning wheels and wasting cash.

Leaking intercoolers may not be the cause of 3psi of boost.

Have you scanned the ecu? Do you have a vag com? If so, please data log 3-31-115 log blocks on a wot 3rd gear pull.

716YETI

May 15th, 2011, 06:15

The intercoolers were definately leaking big time so that is not wasting cash. I had scanned the ecu but did not data log yet. I have not gotten the code again since the ICs were replaced. Tonight I did get a "too rich" code. (I only had my hand held scanner with me.)
I am not ruling out the N75 valve but there are other problems that need to be fixed also.

4everRS

May 15th, 2011, 06:34

Regardless of any of this. There is no replacement for a good data log. A $30 code scanner won't help you with this. I have one, trust me. What Dave and Pat are eluding to is that unless you get us a good log of the listed blocks, you are going nowhere but the land of frustration.

disclaimer: Pat dosen't seem to need a data log, he just uses ESP or some shit to be able to know what the issue is.
The intercoolers were definately leaking big time so that is not wasting cash. I had scanned the ecu but did not data log yet. I have not gotten the code again since the ICs were replaced. Tonight I did get a "too rich" code. (I only had my hand held scanner with me.)
I am not ruling out the N75 valve but there are other problems that need to be fixed also.

DHall1

May 15th, 2011, 07:30

Please take the following vid in all good humor. I could not resist. You were given the proper pathway to sort out this problem but the folks you have working on the car seem to have other ideas so good luck with it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4iNw1Hvcu8

I guess may not is now are not.

Vag is 249 or just keep spinning wheels and wasting cash.

ben916

May 15th, 2011, 07:38

Pat dosen't seem to need a data log, he just uses ESP or some shit to be able to know what the issue is.

yep 1234

DHall1

May 15th, 2011, 08:03

May I suggest finding other "experts"?

If these are the same experts that wanted to replace the intercoolers to solve the problem....then you have a bigger problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=We_G9qseT8Y

2 different experts have worked on it and said, IT IS NOT IN LIMP MODE!" I am confident it is the MAF leak condition or bad MAF sensor based on what I was told.
What do you mean by overboost? I now have a boost gage and the car never goes above 6. Would an overboost condition at least show a spike?

skribe

May 15th, 2011, 14:10

^^ Agree. Unless you're talking about an Audi field tech or a truly experienced tuner of this particular platform, your "experts" might be failing you. Are you talking about someone well-versed in the 4.2t and all its quirks? A lot of people have never worked on one.

I keep saying limp mode because these cars can be in a soft limp THAT SHOWS NO ERROR CODES, for sure not with a generic obdII scanner, but not even with a vag-com either. Would not be diagnosed by the average decent mechanic. One overboost event can trigger this condition and it will stay until cleared, you can't clear that with a generic obdII tool.

Overboost happens when actual boost spikes too far beyond what the ECU requested. That often points to a wastegate issue. N75 valves often degrade and fail after 5 years or so. I would start there, It can't hurt to replace it. As Pat said, check the physical connections to the wastegates next.

I speak as someone who troubleshot a similar problem. Between having a vag-com and a ten minute consult with an audi field tech, I solved the problem, it was a $100 fix to flash out bad first generation code in my MTM ECU file that was triggering an overboost condition.

If you keep throwing money at these cars, you will lose. We've all seen it before on this board. Don't blame the car for anybody's inability to diagnose it. Logic should tell you that for leaky intercoolers to be costing you a full 10psi of boost, you would hear them hissing like a pratt & whitney turbine. Yes they were probably leaky, but you probably didn't need to start there.

If you spent $3k on the car already and didn't spend $300 on a vag-com tool, well, you're going to take some shit on this particular board :hahahehe:

Good luck.

716YETI

May 15th, 2011, 14:39

I do have vagcom. My guy is a very experienced Audi tech who seems to know these cars inside and out. Saying I didn't need to start there seems a bit strange to me. My question is why not eliminate the painfully obvious first? They were leaking smoke without even any pressure on the system. This tells me there is massive loss not just a couple of pin holes. Should I have not fixed the broken wire on the MAF either? Sorry but NOT starting with obvious catastrophic failures seems like a backwards way to go about it. If you have a flat tire and the car isn't handling properly are you going to start by ripping the shocks out?

ttboost

May 15th, 2011, 14:44

N75 was the first thing to shit the bed on my car... 3 days after I bought it...even if it isn't the fix for you, cheap and easy insurance....Sorry, if you are going to own and enjoy one of these cars, Vagcom is a no brainer...buy it, and use it.
No offense, but trust me, rely on the brain trust here, not some mechanic who is an "Audi guy" but has never seen one of these cars...oh and if you don't like your balls broken...stay away from this forum....:lovl:

MaxRS6

May 15th, 2011, 14:44

From what I get out of this is- everyone is trying to help as we have all felt your pain. Correcting the intercoolers wasn't a bad move if they were leaking. I just don't think it was reasonable expectation this would correct the significant boost issue.

...disclaimer: Pat dosen't seem to need a data log, he just uses ESP or some shit to be able to know what the issue is.

^^+1- LOL

I've had dozens of leaks it seems over the years with some under the manifold that are a true PIA. N75 valve is inexpensive part and Pat is a "guru" on long distance diagnosis. Therefore; I'm going to hop onto that side of the scale of the guesses..

Good luck with a resolution and getting your car back running.

The brain trust rocks and for a car forum...kind of entertaining...

http://www.coolest-gadgets.com/wp-content/uploads/maggie-t-nutcracker.jpg

716YETI

May 15th, 2011, 15:41

You have to have pretty thick skin to be on the local forum I am on so this is nothing... so far. lol
Again: I HAVE VAGCOM. I have never data logged with it. Is it pretty straight forward/simple?
Again: My mechanic has vast knowledge of these cars and when I say these cars I mean specifically RS6.

speedtrapped

May 15th, 2011, 16:20

As Dave hall as offered, measuring blocks 03,31,115, hit turbo in upper right corner of screen, log, save... As for vag com set up, plug in to ob2, plug into USB open vcds software, 01 engine, reads ecu, bottom left u will see measuring blocks, dbl click, viola....the 3 blocks stated, turbo button, log.......trust everyone here, majority of know more then Audi mechanics regarding RS6, the engine is not an Audi 4.2

716YETI

May 15th, 2011, 16:53

Great thanks again for the help guys. I justed texted my mechanic he is ordering the N75 along with the other parts needed. Unfortunately I will be out of town for the several days causing more delays.:( Hopefully next week will be the week to get the beast back on her feet.

Jimmy Joe

May 16th, 2011, 04:54

Best of luck with your Beast. In the end, it'll run fine, or, I should say, it'll fly! The guys in this forum are the best of the best in more than just mechanical knowledge, and, let me assure you, as MaxRS6, said, we all are feeling for you, 'cause
nothing blows off your candles as having a non-working Beast right after you bought it. When it will be working right, you' ll absolutly fall in love with it. And yes, you'll need a thick skin, but I'll yet to see a mean bone on any of them, i'ts all in
good fun. So Congrats and welcome to the forum, and guys, ¿what about the Crazy Train?.

Jimmy Joe.

716YETI

May 20th, 2011, 17:24

JSRS6

May 20th, 2011, 17:31

Get your tcu to hoppen and get the MTM tcu upgrade.

716YETI

May 20th, 2011, 17:43

Here is a couple more silly newb questions... How can you have more than 100% engine load?!? If the engine is peaking at 1650 mbar pressure why is my gage not showing anywhere near that high?

V8weight

May 20th, 2011, 17:53

You have to subtract around 950-1000mbar (depending on elevation) for absolute pressure.

JSRS6

May 20th, 2011, 17:56

I know this is a ford website, but there's a lot of good info for you to read up on:

Www.fordfuelinjection.com

ben916

May 20th, 2011, 18:01

Ok so I just tried some data logging but I am new at this so bare with me. I tried third gear pulls but the car kept downshifting. I kept stopping and resuming, not sure if that matters. What should I look for in the log file? Thanks again for any help.

Sidenote: The paddleshift in these cars seems pointless because the car just does what it wants anyway. :gotme:

Are you using Drive or Sport?
I think you are suppose to use Tippy as it will hold the gear until YOU paddle shift it, bump it up/down with the gear lever, or you stop completely...

V8weight

May 20th, 2011, 18:12

Are you using Drive or Sport?
I think you are suppose to use Tippy as it will hold the gear until YOU paddle shift it, bump it up/down with the gear lever, or you stop completely...
The car will still downshift if you kick it down in tip mode....you have to bring it up to at least 3k rpm before easing into the throttle to get a good data log for 3rd gear.

716YETI

May 21st, 2011, 21:02

..Ok so I just tried some data logging but I am new at this so bare with me... What should I look for in the log file? Thanks again for any help.

BUMP for any help on this. If I subtract 1000 mbar it is putting out 650 peak mbar.

hahnmgh63

May 22nd, 2011, 00:26

Standard atmospheric pressure is 1013.25 millibars at sea level at 59'F (anal pilot in me). As alluded to, stick it is 'S' mode then shift it with the paddles. Try shifting manually up to 4th gear and about 2K RPM's then with the paddles, downshift to 3rd and it should stay.

JSRS6

May 22nd, 2011, 00:57

BUMP for any help on this. If I subtract 1000 mbar it is putting out 650 peak mbar.

Thats about 9.5psi. When you are looking at the two columns "requested boost" and "actual boost", requested will rise first. Thats the ecu saying "turbos, wastegates, make me some boost." Then actual will start to rise, this is the MAP sensor reading. Once actual and requested are within tolerances of each other, the wastegates start opening and closing really quickly to keep the MAp sensor reading the same as requested. The time it takes for actual to get up to requested is turbo lag. If it never reaches requested, or if it reaches it and starts dropping when it should stay even, then you have a leak. If actual EXCEEDS requested, you have a boost spike. Change your N75 first. Any other questions?

DHall1

May 22nd, 2011, 02:53

Just a couple of notes. You keep telling us the car is slow and only making 6psi of boost.

So several members tell you to data log specific log blocks in vag com.

Then you come back and say you're actually making 9psi of boost but want more help.

Help with what? exactly.

We need to see snips of the data log. "my car is not making boost and its too slow" means nothing to us.

BUMP for any help on this. If I subtract 1000 mbar it is putting out 650 peak mbar.

MaxRS6

May 22nd, 2011, 03:13

OMG- My car is tripping into limp mode. The car just came back to me from TB service. Actually, it is in interim stage as they let me have it while they waited on some other sundry parts. For about a week, it ran like a rocket. Theeeeennnn- oooof- no power this Tuesday- and has gone into limp mode. Took it to shop..they had it a couple of days (another story)..gave it back to me Friday afternoon..I put some gas to her entering highway from their shop and blahhhhh- no power no boost and right back to limp mode. It is spiking with boost. Went right back to tech and exchanged keys RS6/Q5 (again). They scratched their heads and will take another look Monday. The N75 valve will be replaced while they are at it, and I'll report back if that corrects this current issue that popped out of its' box...

My car is not making boost and is too slow...and the rent is too dammmmmmm high....;00000

716YETI

May 22nd, 2011, 03:21

^^^Awesome thanks. The actual boost seems to run a bit higher than the specified. Hopefully my new N75 arrived and will be installed stat.

^^ My gage reads 6.XX and the car is slow so...

^?

Here are some boost specified and actual...

716YETI

May 22nd, 2011, 03:37

JSRS6

May 22nd, 2011, 05:47

Can you post the screen shot or email me the file and I'll post it?

Josh.s.ray@me.com

DHall1

May 22nd, 2011, 06:00

Now we are getting somewhere.

This is the formatting we need to see
http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a476/drh11/APRMadmax.jpg

DHall1

May 22nd, 2011, 06:02

Then we can make fancy graphs

http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a476/drh11/stephendynorunlog.jpg

JSRS6

May 22nd, 2011, 06:05

Ooooh, pretty ;-).

4everRS

May 22nd, 2011, 13:19

well, this looks like its in line for a tuned car

JSRS6

May 22nd, 2011, 13:25

Look, that's cause it's Randy's data. Dave posted it to show the yeti:hihi: what we want to see:lovl:

716YETI

May 22nd, 2011, 14:05

I will send the file to you Josh.
If the numbers look funny it may be because I did a few pulls. Being the first time I had done this, I wasn't sure how it would be logged.
Reminder: My car is tuned as well.

MaxRS6

May 22nd, 2011, 16:08

Look, that's cause it's Randy's data. Dave posted it to show the yeti:hihi: what we want to see:lovl:

^Correction my friend..- Dave's graph is the Eurcharged tune graph.

Mine is below

http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz195/MaxRS6/MaxGraph-1.jpg?t=1306076804

716YETI

May 24th, 2011, 14:29

I sent the file to JSRS6 Sunday, hoping for help. :)

JSRS6

May 24th, 2011, 14:59

Sorry for the delay, did my tb/wp/tstat sunday, as well as drilled and tapped my charge pipe while it was off for meth. did my lower control arms yesterday and ran the line from the nozzle to the trunk. Hopefully i will have the kit done by next month. I am uploading the screen shots to photobucket to post on here as i type.

JSRS6

May 24th, 2011, 15:34

This is gonna be a long one...
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/917c7a16.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/eff859bc.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/f70442f9.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/f3bcf455.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/c3849417.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/839845c4.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/14508c3f.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/884cfb97.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/4fb28d0e.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/e915f98a.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/6b034e7b.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/e9332f7f.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/32700d0a.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/8311f249.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/389607da.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/120a9977.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/29519fa4.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/60b98375.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/65668a25.png

JSRS6

May 24th, 2011, 15:50

Now, you say you ARE tuned?
Have you scanned your car with Vag-com for codes?
Have you tried a hillbilly reset(disconnect battery for a minute)?

JSRS6

May 24th, 2011, 15:53

Change your N75 pronto. You are consistently overboosting. Looks like the problem.

V8weight

May 24th, 2011, 15:59

It's not specifying any boost....replace turbo's, replace battery, replace mass airflow sensors, replace hood latch and check back.

JSRS6

May 24th, 2011, 16:03

Har har har...dont forget lower control arms...:lovl:

JSRS6

May 24th, 2011, 16:05

True though...some SERIOUS limp mode going on there.

DHall1

May 24th, 2011, 16:12

As myself and others on this forum have said from day 1.

All the Wagner intercoolers in the world will not fix your problem.

I need to see a data log with 3 blocks. 3,31,115 (Still waiting)

What you have shown gives part of the puzzle. Still need to see 3,31,115 from a 2nd or 3rd gear only pull. 2800 to redline.

Your "experts" are idiots. Should I get the Obama vid again?

Plan

1. Do not reset the ecu yet.
2. Complete a log with the 3 blocks in the manner outlined.
3. Report the data log.
4. Now the battery disconnect reset.
5. Go out and do the above 3 block log again.
6. Report your findings along with data log.
7. Then if the #6 findings prove theory of faulty N75 reset yet again and one more data log set(for Pat)
8. Data log 3,114,115 in the same manner and report.
9. Replace N75 and check boost signal lines to wastegates.
10. Car fixed send money to Erik who owns and runs this forum out of his own pocket since day 1 of the C5 RS6

Any other questions?

DHall1

May 24th, 2011, 16:18

And just to keep the natives happy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4iNw1Hvcu8&feature=player_embedded

V8weight

May 24th, 2011, 16:19

I'd be more interested to see block 114 (N75 duty cycle) along with 115. No reason for block 31 in this situation.

DHall1

May 24th, 2011, 16:24

Yeah but I want a baseline. Before and after reset. Then we can proceed to see 114. Yes, there is a good chance the N75 is toast causing the boost spike then limp mode.

I'd be more interested to see block 114 (N75 duty cycle) along with 115. No reason for block 31 in this situation.

MaxRS6

May 24th, 2011, 16:25

It's not specifying any boost....replace turbo's, replace battery, replace mass airflow sensors, replace hood latch and check back.

:hihi::hihi::applause::lovl:

Change your N75 pronto. You are consistently overboosting. Looks like the problem.

Overboosting did u say??

http://www.keithwhite.us/dollypartonst.jpg

DHall1

May 24th, 2011, 16:30

It was just a matter of time before the natives would start the drum beat.

DHall1

May 24th, 2011, 16:33

Not like all of us have been saying this all along. Oh my

^^ Agree. Unless you're talking about an Audi field tech or a truly experienced tuner of this particular platform, your "experts" might be failing you. Are you talking about someone well-versed in the 4.2t and all its quirks? A lot of people have never worked on one.

I keep saying limp mode because these cars can be in a soft limp THAT SHOWS NO ERROR CODES, for sure not with a generic obdII scanner, but not even with a vag-com either. Would not be diagnosed by the average decent mechanic. One overboost event can trigger this condition and it will stay until cleared, you can't clear that with a generic obdII tool.

Overboost happens when actual boost spikes too far beyond what the ECU requested. That often points to a wastegate issue. N75 valves often degrade and fail after 5 years or so. I would start there, It can't hurt to replace it. As Pat said, check the physical connections to the wastegates next.

I speak as someone who troubleshot a similar problem. Between having a vag-com and a ten minute consult with an audi field tech, I solved the problem, it was a $100 fix to flash out bad first generation code in my MTM ECU file that was triggering an overboost condition.

If you keep throwing money at these cars, you will lose. We've all seen it before on this board. Don't blame the car for anybody's inability to diagnose it. Logic should tell you that for leaky intercoolers to be costing you a full 10psi of boost, you would hear them hissing like a pratt & whitney turbine. Yes they were probably leaky, but you probably didn't need to start there.

If you spent $3k on the car already and didn't spend $300 on a vag-com tool, well, you're going to take some shit on this particular board :hahahehe:

Good luck.

716YETI

May 24th, 2011, 20:49

I told my mechanic I needed the N75 on April 6th... it should be here tomorrow. :( Not sure why he didn't change it when he did the intercoolers but I can't change the past. I still stand behind my decision to get new intercoolers!!! :)

hahnmgh63

May 24th, 2011, 21:04

I don't blame you on the intercoolers as it would solve a current or potential problem area. They aren't cheap but the Wagners quality is great.

DHall1

May 25th, 2011, 01:32

Still think your car is not in limp mode?

What did you think of my list to fix the problem?

Do I need to waste more time here?

2 different experts have worked on it and said, IT IS NOT IN LIMP MODE!" I am confident it is the MAF leak condition or bad MAF sensor based on what I was told.
What do you mean by overboost? I now have a boost gage and the car never goes above 6. Would an overboost condition at least show a spike?

716YETI

May 25th, 2011, 03:00

No, that is why I ran the data log and gave it to Josh.
The list looks great but, I am having the N75 installed before I do anything else.
I am sorry you feel you have wasted your time. You do not need to waste any more of your time.

JSRS6

May 25th, 2011, 04:03

Don't worry about it, yeti. Dave is just getting his point across.

JSRS6

May 25th, 2011, 04:04

:hihi::hihi::hihi:

DHall1

May 25th, 2011, 04:17

Not a problem. Just looking to tie up a few loose ends.

New owners come a dime a dozen. Ask for this that and the other. Have "experts" working on their cars but still need the help from forum members. New owners dont bother to detail the diagnosis and repair process and leave with the needed information to solve the problem but dont bother fill in the blanks for the group. Normal.

DHall1

May 25th, 2011, 04:19

If someone takes the time and effort to help you out with details to get you out of a mess you really should participate in the process.

skribe

May 25th, 2011, 04:29

I told my mechanic I needed the N75 on April 6th... it should be here tomorrow...Not sure why he didn't change it when he did the intercoolers but I can't change the past.

He didn't change it because he's not an expert. If I were paying with my own cash, I would've started there. No matter how much money you make, $3k is $3k. See rule #5. (http://thefinancemann.blogspot.com/2009/05/warren-buffets-10-rules-for-getting.html)

DHall1

May 25th, 2011, 05:58

Not to worry. It was the same "experts" that said the car is not in limp mode.

We shall never know because einstein does not wish to follow the proper diagnosis procedure and just replace the N75. Just give me the right answers and to hell with the thought process.

Calling all experts? DRC failure on Caddy one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waRi4TqHNsY&feature=player_embedded#at=13

Experts? I guess he needs to kick his own a$$

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yghFBt-fXmw

vitalian

May 25th, 2011, 21:01

Love the videos, but I'm still completely traumatized by the photo that MaxRS6 posted...:)

skribe

May 26th, 2011, 02:48

Love the videos, but I'm still completely traumatized by the photo that MaxRS6 posted...:)

Haha, me too! What's going to happen when those plastics fatigue?!

716YETI

May 26th, 2011, 04:24

hahnmgh63

May 26th, 2011, 05:00

Dave was just trying to get you to set the baseline to go from. Did you ever do the log to include group 3? Along with the group 31 & 115. Now that you've done the reset, try a couple of full throttle runs in upper gears so you do load up the car, then redo the logs and Redo the Vagom checks. Even if there are no codes being thrown yet, as Dave alluded too, there may be a lot to learn from complete logs. Oh, by the way, what kind of tune is it? Is it APR? Dave has a lot of log from most RS6 tunes out there so he is a great knowledge base to compare your logs to, especially helpful if you know the tune.

DHall1

May 26th, 2011, 05:41

Who needs to learn anything...yeti now has 16psi.

As I said, the hell with diagnosis, the hell with data logs, the hell with timing and a/f ratios. He has 16psi today and melting pistons. Wooohooo.

Limp mode? NO my car is not in limp mode. The experts told me.

skribe

May 26th, 2011, 06:00

I did the redneck reset because Dhall1 said not to. :D The car power has now at leasted doubled since ownership. I am not saying car is fixed so STFU very kindly. More to do tomorrow, still no N75 valve yet.:D
Running up to 16psi at this point.

What I told you to try three weeks ago. Durrrrrrr.

You're right. It's by no means fixed. Your car will now run strong for exactly 250 miles. At which point, it will drop back to limp mode because, yes, wait for it, you are overboosting and you could spin a turbo or God knows what else if you drive it around like that.

Replace N75. Check lines to wastegate. Accept the free gift of a clue when it's given to you.

DHall1

May 26th, 2011, 06:27

Horse is dead.....just making the meat tender at this point.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IU1bzZheWk

ben916

May 26th, 2011, 07:51

Love the videos, but I'm still completely traumatized by the photo that MaxRS6 posted...:)

The fun has only begun...

JSRS6

May 26th, 2011, 12:49

Horse is dead.....just making the meat tender at this point.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IU1bzZheWk

Mmmmm, when's the BBQ?

MaxRS6

May 26th, 2011, 13:29

Haha, me too! What's going to happen when those plastics fatigue?!

Love the videos, but I'm still completely traumatized by the photo that MaxRS6 posted...:)

The fun has only begun...

Where is the love???? I know one of the ladies so I sent her an email. She responded and I wanted to share her response:

Dear Max:
<O:p</O:p
It was nice to hear from you again. Your emails are much nicer than the creeper phone calls at all times of the night. I’m glad we were able to get past that.

<O:p</O:p
I am very sorry to hear that some do not appreciate our group. We work very hard to maintain a high degree of physical and mental fitness. We have traveled all around the world to spread ourselves for all.

<O:p</O:p
We were there

<O:p</O:p
When Zubrikita was hit with a drought- We were there! Our milk spouts received a workout- but it was worth it to save thousands.

<O:p</O:p
When the military needed heavy lift in the mountains of Afghanistan- We were there! Helium was used in vast amounts that day. The troops were great and their boots tickled.

<O:p</O:p
When the Goodyear air ship was grounded- We were there! The press was impressed with the luxurious and cavernous environment provided to get their aerial shots of the golf tourney.

<O:p</O:p
Love,

<O:p</O:p
Mom
<O:p</O:p

P.S.- Sis says hi!

I can go back out into the icy public with my back straight and chin up knowing Mom and Sis have done so much good.

Back on Topic- My N75 valve should be at the shop today for installation. With any luck- I'll be back to normal boost. It looks very sad sitting in the corner of the shop with its' head hung low..

716YETI

May 26th, 2011, 13:51

JSRS6

May 26th, 2011, 16:18

It is an EPL tune. I got a chance to log 3,31, and 115 this morning. What is the tolerance for overboost, should there be absolutely zero overboost? Hopefully Josh can help out again if I send the log to him. :)

Send it on over, hopefully it's a little shorter this time :lovl:

716YETI

May 26th, 2011, 16:27

Yeah, I only ran one pull this time.lol
It is on my lap top and I am not near any wifi right now but I will send it as soon as I can.
Thanks!

JSRS6

May 26th, 2011, 17:14

Wifi?!? You don't need no stinkin wifi. Just jailbreak your iPhone and tether it. :lovl:

JSRS6

May 27th, 2011, 01:33

Here ya go:

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/26a9d88f.jpg
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/ff565039.jpg

716YETI

May 27th, 2011, 01:36

V8weight

May 27th, 2011, 03:06

Thanks a lot! There is some over boost but what is the acceptable range? Before anyone bitches my N75 should be in UPS Overnight right now. I grew tired of waiting for my mechanic to order it.:)
There must be some tolerance for overboost. No?
Do the other numbers look cool or no?
In the second run, your car dropped specified load around 5k rpm. You need to figure out why. It dropped the request for boost and dumped timing (if you were logging different parameters, you'd see the throttle plate closing too) It looks like it may have been knocking.

speedtrapped

May 27th, 2011, 03:40

Knocking....yikes

skribe

May 27th, 2011, 04:45

Oh, snap. Here's to hoping your probs don't run wide and deep yeti.

4everRS

May 27th, 2011, 05:04

log 13,14,15,16,17,18 ect(I think) for some misfire codes. Knocking "should" throw codes. Misfires may not.

DHall1

May 27th, 2011, 06:12

Oh hell why would it knock when a/f voltages are down around .73 and .75

No problems here....move along folks.

DHall1

May 27th, 2011, 06:14

I rest my case.

Skribe, tell the man what he has won.

Who needs to learn anything...yeti now has 16psi.

As I said, the hell with diagnosis, the hell with data logs, the hell with timing and a/f ratios. He has 16psi today and melting pistons. Wooohooo.

Limp mode? NO my car is not in limp mode. The experts told me.

4everRS

May 27th, 2011, 13:11

Oooo. Missed that. Not good. Why is this? Bad tune? As you said before dave, this is how to melt pistons.

V8weight

May 27th, 2011, 13:40

Oooo. Missed that. Not good. Why is this? Bad tune? As you said before dave, this is how to melt pistons.
It looks like a "feel good" tune...Spikes an absurd 2300mbars of boost by 5k rpm then tapers back to 1800mbars...no timing throughout.

MaxRS6

May 27th, 2011, 13:56

Based on all the above- go back to square one- Put ECU back to stock and protect yo moto. Run some logs to verify all is good. Then look at the great options for a proven tune...

716YETI

May 27th, 2011, 14:17

JSRS6

May 27th, 2011, 14:53

Based on all of the above- Drive car to east side of Buffalo and leave keys in it. j/k
Not sure if it matters with any of these numbers, etc but, keep in mind I have Meth injection.
How do I go back to stock tune?

You should really update your signature Yeti, so people know these things when helping with diagnosis...

716YETI

May 27th, 2011, 15:00

Good thought. will do.

V8weight

May 27th, 2011, 15:01

The methanol injection isn't helping for some reason, you're only dialing in 15 degrees of advance at peak boost, then the car dumps timing, load etc. I don't have meth, and run about 20-25 degrees at peak boost, with no timing correction or knock.

DHall1

May 27th, 2011, 15:24

All the meth injection in the world will not help humpty dumpty back on the wall.

.73v a/f ratio is .73v a/f ratio.

Having the .73v a/f ratio at peak boost and torque is just icing on cake.

This is why you fix the car in the proper method mentioned by myself and others.

But hey, go for what I say not to do.

DHall1

May 27th, 2011, 15:26

This is also the reason I wanted to see baseline 3,31,115 logs. Voila humpty dumpty is running dead lean.

Winner winner chicken dinner.

Oh yeah, next time please select "turbo" mode in the Vagcom so we can better see the data stream.

716YETI

May 27th, 2011, 16:09

Thanks a lot! There is some over boost but what is the acceptable range? Before anyone bitches my N75 should be in UPS Overnight right now. I grew tired of waiting for my mechanic to order it.:)
There must be some tolerance for overboost. No?
Do the other numbers look cool or no?

ECS did not ship my N75 because the oil filters on my order were on back order. She said it would ship but I guess someone decided to hold it up. It is now scheduled for Saturday delivery, without the oil filters.

If .73v is bad what is acceptable?

Sig updated.

MaxRS6

May 27th, 2011, 16:18

Well- my N75 was installed. However; my car is still having issues and the tech now suspects a pressure sensor. They are doing further research...drip...drip...drip.... Oooooffff

speedtrapped

May 27th, 2011, 17:05

This settles it for me, TY yeti for I have now decided to be a patient man and wait for señor Jerry.....

716YETI

May 27th, 2011, 17:10

Who would that be?

speedtrapped

May 27th, 2011, 18:55

Long story, but I have done a fair amount of mods on my beast. The tine is DBR, came with swap, it's powerful, but I run very lean, above 5k on WOT......I have always has excellent results from Jerry at Eurocharged( and his boy robin, mr. Hall to you). I need to custom tune my new setup, and now reading this, I will wait for Jerry to come to nj.

DHall1

May 28th, 2011, 05:20

hahnmgh63

May 28th, 2011, 05:29

You guys getting N75's from ECS aren't buying the 'H' Valve are you? You should not use that valve, stick with the stock 'B' Valve, which is 078 906 283B.

kevin

May 28th, 2011, 05:37

I thought is was winner winner Sheen dinner..... DUH.....winninng......

btw, my 6 is running great!

it's good time reading these threads.....

skribe

May 28th, 2011, 07:19

"Yes Speed, some joker is running around selling crappy tunes. He calls himself the expert and we are racing just a fast as poss to fix this $hit."

http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a476/drh11/batman_robin_batmobile_012.jpg

Guffaw.

Yeti, I would resist the urge to stick my foot in it before your resolve the lean a/f... or you're gunning for The Final Countdown...

In that other thread it sounds like your TC is also saying goodnight... LMK if you want to part out those brand new wagner ICs before your car accidentally slips out of park and rolls into the hudson.

716YETI

May 28th, 2011, 13:45

speedtrapped

May 28th, 2011, 13:46

Oh Dave when will they learn, crime doesn't pay.....

speedtrapped

May 28th, 2011, 13:50

Does suck that you have all these issue's, aggressive tune = aggressive driving, ie launching .... Which kills TC, surprised though that you have a beefier converter. Someone, PO? Pounding the shit out of the car.

716YETI

May 28th, 2011, 14:39

My N75 just arrived. yay.

skribe

May 28th, 2011, 16:00

I didn't buy an RS4 because they lose up to 30 horsepower with the FSI set up from "carbon" build up. That would have been a fucking treat compared to this POS.
Drowning is too good for this car, it will burn... slowly!

Wrong forum to hate on the car and declare it a POS. When a dog is badly trained, I look to the other end of the leash to find the problem. It does sound like you bought somebody else's headaches... which happens ALL THE TIME with these cars.

It is not a normal car. It is very high-maintenance. It will make you crazy unless you are willing to come to terms with that.

716YETI

May 28th, 2011, 16:26

I hear you. The guy who owned it before me dumped over $20,000 in the last 12,000 miles. I guess I was hoping the car would work well for at least a few more miles. lol

DHall1

May 29th, 2011, 06:59

Hope? I seem to remember that slogan back in 08.

Hope and dumping 20k mean nothing. You want a fast car? Pay someone who knows what the hell is going on, learn to do it yourself or listen to folks that know what the hell is going on. Clearly the prev owner learned a lesson and ended up with a mess. Now you have "experts" and still a big fat mess. A bench reset and party with 16+psi on upgraded turbos is going to net you a paperweight. Even if the N75 fixes the overboost you still may have huge issues. So beware

I put 6k miles on my car last year and it runs like the wind. Total out of pocket costs? 800 bucks and that included a full 35k timing belt and maint service. So far this year? zero costs. Ask me how many hours of data logs I completed before calling the tune good enough? Keep it simple

716YETI

May 29th, 2011, 16:11

I certainly can't argue with that, hope in 2008 got us the biggest disaster since FDR. And people thought Bush was bad? lol I had to write in Dr. Paul in New York which ended not even counting but there was no way I was going to vote for McSame. If there is ANY hope for this country people need to wake up and join the revolution and I am not talking about the Palin Tea Party I am talking about the guy that had a Tea Party in 2007 before the Hannity and Palin types hijacked the Tea party idea. DR RON PAUL 2012
Ok enough about politics. :)

I hope I get my car fixed before the financial collapse of the USA.

DHall1

May 29th, 2011, 19:22

Yeti

We finally agree on something.

R and D are one in the same. TP is a joke. Big money owns them all.

I will try not to be so hard on you but please listen to what the folks are telling ya.

I certainly can't argue with that, hope in 2008 got us the biggest disaster since FDR. And people thought Bush was bad? lol I had to write in Dr. Paul in New York which ended not even counting but there was no way I was going to vote for McSame. If there is ANY hope for this country people need to wake up and join the revolution and I am not talking about the Palin Tea Party I am talking about the guy that had a Tea Party in 2007 before the Hannity and Palin types hijacked the Tea party idea. DR RON PAUL 2012
Ok enough about politics. :)

I hope I get my car fixed before the financial collapse of the USA.

speedtrapped

May 29th, 2011, 23:04

Yeti, u hit daves soft spot

716YETI

May 30th, 2011, 01:27

That is great, we found commomn ground. :) I am listening but I just don't react quick enough for you. When I was young my car was my life but now it sits more than anything with all of the other things going on in my life. The N75 is going in Tuesday along with a couple other little parts and pieces. I will data log after that to see where I stand.

4everRS

May 30th, 2011, 02:11

Like scratching a dog behind the ears
Yeti, u hit daves soft spot

716YETI

May 31st, 2011, 20:47

My car couldn't even make until today for the N75 before the alternator failed yesterday. All I can do is laugh at this point. I think EVERYTHING on the car has been replaced at this point. lol
Any good sources for alternators?

716YETI

May 31st, 2011, 23:19

I just ordered an alternator.
The car is slow again with the new N75, I liked the old one better. :) I guess I can't data log again until the new alternator is in. :(

EDIT: Just got an email: Can't get that part, dealer only. WTF? Anyone have a source for these? The stealership wants like $550.

DHall1

June 1st, 2011, 06:51

source a pn

genuineaudiparts.com

716YETI

June 1st, 2011, 09:15

^$660.07 :( Looks like I may have to go to the stealership.

V8weight

June 1st, 2011, 13:39

^$660.07 :( Looks like I may have to go to the stealership.
Did you put an "X" at the end when you punched it into genuinevwaudiparts? Sounds like you priced a new rather than re-manufactured alternator.

V8weight

June 1st, 2011, 14:17

I'm showing $429.00 for a reman from genuine, plus a $200 core.

716YETI

June 1st, 2011, 14:31

ben916

June 1st, 2011, 17:09

^$429.00 with $200.00 core. I didn't think there were any new ones around any longer. Thanks!

Edit; You beat me to it. I will call them to be sure they have them in stock.

Edit II: They don't have a phone. lol

Yeah that is one thing about Genuine that stinks = no phone.
I have them confirm the item is in stock via email in the special instructions area of the order...

716YETI

June 2nd, 2011, 02:08

I got an email that said it will ship "about" Friday. New Yorkers hate when Californians are so laid back. :)

716YETI

June 3rd, 2011, 15:47

Good news/bad news...

The good news is my tranny is working better. The bad news is the reason it works better is because it doesn't have to handle any high power with the new N75 valve installed. I will try to do more data logging this weekend if the battery will last long enough. :(

Maybe I will get someone to drive my na 4.2 in a race to see if it is faster than my RS6. lol

speedtrapped

June 3rd, 2011, 16:43

did u save your old n75?.....I just swapped mine...turns out i replaced a god one, took a 12 volt battery and a couple of wires, n75 was clicking away, worked fine. did discover my IC hose clamps all needed tightening...not sure why your new n75 would produce less power? I guess ur back in limp mode?

SteveKen

June 3rd, 2011, 16:49

I'm guessing that you don't have the car at Black Forest Motorsports as I originally recommended, as Jason would have had you well sorted by now.

716YETI

June 3rd, 2011, 17:05

I thought It was back in limp mode so I did the redneck reset again but it ran the same. A little over 6psi which seems about 10psi low.(?)

did u save your old n75?.....I just swapped mine...turns out i replaced a god one, took a 12 volt battery and a couple of wires, n75 was clicking away, worked fine. did discover my IC hose clamps all needed tightening...not sure why your new n75 would produce less power? I guess ur back in limp mode?

speedtrapped

June 3rd, 2011, 17:39

at this point send it blackforest.....u have alot of mods, might as well let them diagnos and fix, they are very reputable. I also retightened my clamps on my vennairs between charge pipes, wagners, and Y pipe...check them, mine were all a little loos....one even was sliding off, with just a droplet of oil at the pinch, so that might of been why I was losing a little boost over 5k rpm...

716YETI

June 3rd, 2011, 19:41

Obama wanted me to "spread the wealth" and Jason already has gotten aboot $20,000 from me. ;) One of my Audis was car was the frist car he worked on in his "new" location a few years back. So yeah, I know him, he is a good guy. :) Maybe I will spread more of my wealth(not that I have much) to him... again. lol

MaxRS6

June 4th, 2011, 02:56

^^ I feel your pain Yeti. My car remains in the shop. The idjuits call me late today and say they think it is ready. I get there and it pulls off the line like an A6. I have one of their sales managers drive the car (as I bend his ear forcefully) and he cannot believe the techs thought their work was done. It is obvious the car is making no power as it has absolutely no boost. The Audi monkeys are scratching their heads as we are on week 3 of this issue. I promptly give them back my key and hop directly back into the Q5 loaner. Ooooooofffffff

716YETI

June 4th, 2011, 03:12

Well the rubber grommets are finally at the dealership so now I can get my intake to seat/seal mo better. I had a couple minutes tonight so I took her for a spin tonight and got about 8psi which made it quicker. The last time I had used SUNOCO fuel, this time I used Mobil fuel. I don't know just sayin. Tomorrow I will data log.

I wish I got a Q5 while I wait!

Edit: Another thing I noticed is you definately need to BURY the pedal because even 99% only gives you about 75% powa.

skribe

June 4th, 2011, 04:22

Another thing I noticed is you definately need to BURY the pedal because even 99% only gives you about 75% powa.

That might be a clue to what's up with your car. When you go WOT the system goes into "open loop" and it's a different feedback loop w/ MAF sensors and whatev... I am not the knowledge guy on that stuff, but I do know that an RS 6, when it's running right, is fastest when you learn how to feather the pedal, not mash it... like playing a strat with a wah pedal. So it seems odd that WOT would be drastically better than 99% throttle.

There is something systemic with your car that looking for little leaks and and type of gas is not going to fix...RS 6 is a giant PITA, but it's all worth it when you can hang with cars like a CLK 63 and a lambo superlegarra and still pick up the kids or drive your friends for a round of golf.

For the record, I pulled on the CLK, the lambo pulled on me, but verrry slowly, to my (and his) surprise. :)

Oh, yeah, I forgot, last week's action also included utterly destroying a modded 370z, which got a smile and a thumbs up from the driver.

DHall1

June 4th, 2011, 06:01

Same ol story Yeti. We need to see the data logs. 2nd or 3rd gear pull only.

Hope? I seem to remember that slogan back in 08.

Hope and dumping 20k mean nothing. You want a fast car? Pay someone who knows what the hell is going on, learn to do it yourself or listen to folks that know what the hell is going on. Clearly the prev owner learned a lesson and ended up with a mess. Now you have "experts" and still a big fat mess. A bench reset and party with 16+psi on upgraded turbos is going to net you a paperweight. Even if the N75 fixes the overboost you still may have huge issues. So beware

I put 6k miles on my car last year and it runs like the wind. Total out of pocket costs? 800 bucks and that included a full 35k timing belt and maint service. So far this year? zero costs. Ask me how many hours of data logs I completed before calling the tune good enough? Keep it simple

716YETI

June 4th, 2011, 17:37

Lambda under load is .888-.895.
Specified boost 2090 actual boost 1490.
Boost leak maybe?

V8weight

June 4th, 2011, 19:58

Lambda under load is .888-.895.
Specified boost 2090 actual boost 1490.
Boost leak maybe?
Yes, now we're getting somewhere..Your lambda voltages are perfect, if not a tad rich (looks like they are correcting for a lean condition, hint hint) You either have a substantial boost leak, or an issue with your actual wastegate actuators and are still running on the wastegate springs...

DHall1

June 5th, 2011, 23:20

A snapshot means nothing. Need to see the pull from 2800 to redline.

716YETI

June 6th, 2011, 01:36

I sent a log file to Josh... again. Hopefully he will help me out... again. Thanks Josh!

JSRS6

June 6th, 2011, 01:51

No problem mike. Hope you get your beast running right sooner than later.
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/df740a34.png
http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa403/jsrs6/3cdbf995.png

MaxRS6

June 8th, 2011, 14:16

Drip..drip....drip- I'm still rolling up miles (about 1K recently) on a brand spanking new Q5- in total I've rolled 2500 miles on their loaner cars during this repair. The Q5 has been a nice ride and the golf clubs fit very well. The only issue is that the windshield wipers randomly swipe the windshield for no reason at all. The first couple of times I thought I had hit the stalk. However; after a few times I realized it is doing it on its' own. I think I'll open up a service ticket- LOL

The dealerhsip owner is now involved at my request. At the present, he has followed through on his word and I appreciate him getting involved in my car issue. The techs have traced it down to a MAF circuit on bank 1. They swapped the MAF sensors and the issue remained on bank 1. Thus, they are checking on the wiring and I hope to have a resolution soon.

716YETI

June 9th, 2011, 00:35

I call BS, Audi has NEVER had electrical problems. ;)

Checking for leaks and finally getting the airbox rubber grommets installed tomorrow. This should be it... yeah... right.

MaxRS6

June 9th, 2011, 12:18

drip..drip...drip..now the tech is theorizing the ECU is bad...scratch scratch scratch

716YETI

June 9th, 2011, 13:27

Where are you? Can you swap with someone on here to test? A new one can't be cheap.

716YETI

June 9th, 2011, 16:17

Update: Hardcode - N75 open. He is checking the wires, etc.

JSRS6

June 9th, 2011, 17:07

That would definitely do it.

716YETI

June 9th, 2011, 18:44

I am trying to not get my hopes up ... again. ;)

MaxRS6

June 9th, 2011, 22:22

Update- Possible culprit is leak under the intake..They tore him apart some and hear a distinct leak under the intake. They are in the process of taking the intake off to find the exact source..the Q5 is taking a nice road trip to the St. Jude FedEx golf tourney in Memphis tomorrow..The upside is my car has only put on about 4K miles this year and is a new all-time low...

Yeti- I wonder which of us will actually get our car back in operating form first??? It has certainly been a long road for both of us..It will be so worth it when we get them back...I think...LOL

716YETI

June 10th, 2011, 01:13

716YETI

June 10th, 2011, 01:59

17887 Brake Boost Vacuum System Failure: Mechinal Failure.
P1479-008 - Implausible Signal
Skipping Step 2 (data logging) and jumping to step 3: Driving into large tree.

V8weight

June 10th, 2011, 02:05

17887 Brake Boost Vacuum System Failure: Mechinal Failure.
P1479-008 - Implausible Signal
Skipping Step 2 (data logging) and jumping to step 3: Driving into large tree.
Means you need a new brake vacuum pump (8E0 927 317B)......at least its expensive.

ttboost

June 10th, 2011, 02:09

Yeah..scanned mine today...no CEL, but was curious...2 engine codes: 18010 & 17979. Also 2 trans codes: 17095 & 18258...I choose to ignore these and pretend I never checked them...

hahnmgh63

June 10th, 2011, 03:15

<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD> </TD><TD vAlign=top width="50%"><TABLE style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #ffffff 1px solid; BORDER-LEFT: #ffffff 1px solid; BORDER-TOP: #ffffff 1px solid; BORDER-RIGHT: #ffffff 1px solid" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD class=tabletext><TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD class=titletext colSpan=4 align=middle>OEM Catalog </TD></TR><TR><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #ffffff 1px solid" class=tabletext>Item Number</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #ffffff 1px solid" class=tabletext align=right>MSRP</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #ffffff 1px solid" class=tabletext align=right>Core Price</TD><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #ffffff 1px solid" class=tabletext align=right>Price</TD></TR><TR><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top>8E0927317B</TD><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top align=right>$227.00</TD><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top align=right>$0.00</TD><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top align=right>$163.44</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

V8weight

June 10th, 2011, 03:19

speedtrapped

June 10th, 2011, 03:26

Mike I also have a brand new, or rather refurbed trans, new valve body, and tc.....just in case

716YETI

June 10th, 2011, 03:37

So what does this brake vacuum pump have to do with lack of power/psi or is this in addition to all of my power problems?

4everRS

June 10th, 2011, 03:56

Mike, how's your battery? May be going on you. That or the alternator, but you should be able to see that in the guage while the car is running. May need a new trans harness too.

716YETI

June 10th, 2011, 04:04

The alternator was not charging properly a couple weeks ago so I ordered a new one but since then it has been charging over 12v and up to 14+v. The new one should be here tomorrow.

V8weight

June 10th, 2011, 04:04

So what does this brake vacuum pump have to do with lack of power/psi or is this in addition to all of my power problems?
Absolutely nothing.....just a new, unrelated problem to add to the pile. This code doesn't indicate a vacuum leak, just that the performance of the electric vacuum pump is below the threshold.

4everRS

June 10th, 2011, 04:08

Sorry, I guess your a Mike too. I was referring to ttboost. I think he's a Mike too. My bad. Yeti, disregard my comment.
The alternator was not charging properly a couple weeks ago so I ordered a new one but since then it has been charging over 12v and up to 14+v. The new one should be here tomorrow.

716YETI

June 10th, 2011, 04:22

^^I was wondering how that could be the cause. lol
^Oh OK. I did have some strange battery/charging going on a couple weeks ago. lol

I think I will love this car once I replace EVERY part.

V8weight

June 10th, 2011, 04:31

^^I was wondering how that could be the cause. lol
^Oh OK. I did have some strange battery/charging going on a couple weeks ago. lol

I think I will love this car once I replace EVERY part.
You would toss your supper if you saw the list of parts my car has consumed in the last 3 years......about $35K worth of warranty work, maintenance and upgrades...

JSRS6

June 10th, 2011, 05:02

You would toss your supper if you saw the list of parts my car has consumed in the last 3 years......about $35K worth of warranty work, maintenance and upgrades...

Yeah but it looks so good doing it!!!

ttboost

June 10th, 2011, 11:22

With the latest rash of alternator's sh*tting the bed, , I have been keeping an eye on mine as I have been piling on the miles. I have never noticed my gauge drop and never had any hard starts or any other clues. Why a trans harness? Can it be done in the car?

Jimmy

June 10th, 2011, 12:54

Hey Mike...my alt shat the bed last week actually....I had no clues leading up to it. Driving at nite the battery lite pops on and then the car lites dim as the voltmeter dropped below 12 volts...I got it home no problem, and it stills starts and drives but the charging is oscillating. So don't be surpised if it just 'happens' one day on ya'.

I thought Steve had done yours recently and said it was a PITA (?)....it doesn't look that bad from underneath on alift to me, but I'm sure its not 'easy' to R&R.

I guess I should be OK with that it went almost 8 years and 94K on the orginal alt :applause:...seems like other owners had theirs go much earlier....

MaxRS6

June 10th, 2011, 13:43

^ I rolled 145K miles until my alternator went kaput without any warning while I was out of town a few months ago. Fortunately, I was near an Audi dealership and they had me rolling the next business day..

hahnmgh63

June 10th, 2011, 14:32

Has anyone with an alternator failure determined what failed? I noticed that it is a fairly standard looking Bosch alternator with the voltage regulator with internal brushes that is replaceable. Audi wants around $118 for the regulator/brushes but I'm sure with the Bosch part you can find it is common to many Bosch alternators? I'll pull mine tonight and see how the brushes are worn after 67K and take a visual look at the armature.

Jimmy

June 10th, 2011, 15:29

I noticed that too that it is a standard looking Bosch alt....it seems these alts also fit the old Sciroccos and the newer Tourags according to part numbers.

I saw that it has the external voltage regulators like old school...which would be nice if that is all that really needs replacing. I sure would like to hear what you find out on yours hahnmgh63.

145K is more like it MaxRs6 !...I think my Scirocco went 20+ years and 160K on its original and the Benzes have never needed an alt. and they're up over 150K too (knock on burlwood)

hahnmgh63

June 10th, 2011, 15:40

I'm sure the regulator will have a Bosch part # on it, I'll try to pull it and take a look tonight and post the part #.

Spam16v

June 10th, 2011, 20:26

Bad N75 connection fixed, ran like a champ all afternoon for mechanic, now 6psi again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11
MORE data logging to come. I am just going to mount my netbook on the fucking dash... permanently.

Got the wiring dug out from the rats nest lying almost on the exhaust, in the connector stations, got the airbox actually attached to something, Was seeing a solid 19+ psi and taper to 16+ all afternoon running errands heading back to your house. Then you called on my way to dinner with the wife... so much for that. About 5 or 6 key cycles/starts & stops, no dtcs in engine, trans or abs on my netbook, not sure if I saved the dtc logs. Forgot the RS6 has an electric vacuum pump for the brake booster, I'm used to bad check valves and broken plastic parts on mortal Audi's. FML, so much for a solid day's work amounting to anything sometimes.

716YETI

June 10th, 2011, 21:22

You have been texted. :)

716YETI

June 10th, 2011, 21:25

So my alternator arrived today. I thought I read somewhere the only thing different/special about the RS6 alternator was the pulley size. The alternator didn't even come with a new pulley. (?) I probably could have purchased a 150amp VW one for half the price. lol

hahnmgh63

June 11th, 2011, 02:05

Pulled my regulator which is a Bosch F-00M-145-247 which I found fits some Mercedes Vehicles around the same years as our but I couldn't find a price for a OEM regulator any cheaper than Genuine's. The Brushes on mine still look like they have half their life left but I'm thinking about using some fine emery cloth on the armature contact area and sticking a new regulator in it anyways. Not to offend any Brits out there but maybe our Alternator problem is that the Voltage regulator says made in G.B., maybe it is manufactured for Bosch by Lucas, The Prince of Darkness.

716YETI

June 11th, 2011, 14:03

THE BEAST IS BACK ON HER FEET!

I was starting to believe the neck snapping test drives were a figment of my imagination, "Maybe the car was never really fast". lol

This car is stupid and by stupid I mean stupid fast. :) A real torque monster.

THANK YOU EVERYONE FOR THE HELP! (Especially Josh for posting my log files)

JSRS6

June 11th, 2011, 14:18

Glad to hear it Mike. Now that your beast is back, hurry up and get that new tc in!

716YETI

June 12th, 2011, 04:20

I need to figure out what I am going to do. The TC has already been replaced with an IPT but the valve bodies were not reworked. I really don't like this tranny at all, the paddle shift is a joke really unless mine is just broken. The car shifts on its own... sometimes. I put it in third and it randomly decides to throw it back in fifth. WTF?
I would really like to do the 6 speed swap but I need to gather more info on the true total cost and can I hire someone to do 100% of the job. I don't want someone to give me the car back and say, "Now you just need to do x, y, and z and it will be complete". I want full turn-key, mechanical, electronics, etc. I don't want to hunt down parts either because with my luck they will be wrong or shot. Oh and I don't want my car to be in the shop for a month either. And a bunch of other demands.lol

ttboost

June 12th, 2011, 12:49

I don't see the most important Mod in your sig? MTM TCU flash? If you don't have a TCU flash, you are missing the most important upgrade you can do for this car. Only $125 too...

marklar182

June 12th, 2011, 18:44

car shifts on its own... sometimes. I put it in third and it randomly decides to throw it back in fifth. WTF?

Are you using just the paddles with shift selector in D, or is the shift selector in Tip mode or S?

If you have it in D, it will time out and go back to the default gear program. You have to use Tip mode or S to take "full" control. Even then the stock TCU chip will call up unwanted downshifts at times.

Get MTM TCU chip.

716YETI

June 13th, 2011, 02:30

Hoppen for the TCU tune? I can't believe it isn't tuned already but I guess there is no way to tell. (?)

kevin

June 13th, 2011, 02:45

There might be a sticker on the tcu case with the MTM logo on it..

716YETI

June 13th, 2011, 03:12

Ahhhh. I will definately check. Thanks.

ttboost

June 13th, 2011, 11:56

Probably no sticker, but if you hate the way it shifts, you likely don't have it. Most of us just call Hoppen and get the chip shipped to us and either do it ourselves or have our tuner do it. You can send your TCU out to them, but your down for a day or 3.

JSRS6

June 13th, 2011, 14:35

You can open the box and look at the chip. IIRC, when I watched mike solder mine in, it had a sticker on it...

ttboost

June 13th, 2011, 14:41

You can open the box and look at the chip. IIRC, when I watched mike solder mine in, it had a sticker on it...

Yup,,,just check your TCU...if the sticker is cut..someone has been in there, if not, then no. TCU is under the front passenger side floor carpet.

716YETI

June 13th, 2011, 16:53

Thanks. I will check for evidence.

716YETI

April 7th, 2012, 22:30

So I finally purchased a 6 speed transmission. Hopefully it will be installed soon after I round up the other required parts. Yay I can't wait to actually be able to drive the car... a year later.

ttboost

April 8th, 2012, 00:02

Are you buying a "kit" from anyone here on the forum? Or are you gonna source all the parts and fabricate your own stuff?

716YETI

April 8th, 2012, 03:32

I bought an adaptor kit from Steve and then I will get the audi parts from where ever I can get them from.

ben916

April 8th, 2012, 06:18

Start a new thread so others can view and track your progress, please.

Lots of Photos!

ttboost

April 8th, 2012, 13:14

I bought an adaptor kit from Steve and then I will get the audi parts from where ever I can get them from.

Nice. Definitely keep us posted. Sounds like you need to source a junkyard donor car...

4everRS

April 8th, 2012, 16:44

Start a new thread so others can view and track your progress, please.

Lots of Photos!

^ This.

Makes it much better for current and future members to search.