About time new Bakes & Phaeton Ducts. Can't wait to run it hard. [Archive] - RS6.com

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hahnmgh63

February 21st, 2011, 00:42

11019 I'll11018 leave feedback on the Yellows when I get them broken in. They seem to fit better than the Reds (no filng needed).11017

V8weight

February 21st, 2011, 01:39

Nice. I'm anxious to hear your impressions of the yellow pads for street driving, as the Reds just don't seem aggressive enough for the car (I'm on my second set of Reds, and they seem to just melt down). I'm thinking of trying out the Porterfield R4S on my next change. Did you buy all of the Phaeton parts individually, or did you source them from Grizz?

ben916

February 21st, 2011, 01:53

What do you mean "filing" on the REDS? Mine fit right in...
If you mean on the notch in the pads so they seat down farther within the caliper, mine seemed fine (and I did talk to SUPER Pat about this :) )

How will the YELLER'S effect the wear on the OEM rotor?

Isn't genuine great? :)

vitalian

February 21st, 2011, 02:02

Yes, please let us know what you think of those pads. (I have a feeling some new front pads and maybe rotors are in my near future, and a lot of my driving is city driving, unfortunately.)

marklar182

February 21st, 2011, 02:15

For you EBC Red users; do they leave less brake dust on the wheels than OEM?

I have a set of EBC Reds waiting, but the stockers still have some life left in them. The amount of dust the OEM pads leave is horrendous. I may just swap them out before they are dead.

V8weight

February 21st, 2011, 02:18

The Redstuff pads produce little to no dust at all. My problem with them is that they are melting to the rotors, which causes this look:
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww228/Pellis833/001-16.jpg
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww228/Pellis833/002-20.jpg

JSRS6

February 21st, 2011, 02:25

marklar182

February 21st, 2011, 02:48

eek!

Is that after pushing them hard, or just normal driving?

V8weight

February 21st, 2011, 02:55

eek!

Is that after pushing them hard, or just normal driving?
Well, i would say "normal driving" as in how we all probably drive the car. Pushed hard on the back roads on the weekend, and driven to work on the week days.

Elevens

February 21st, 2011, 03:00

11019 I'll11018 leave feedback on the Yellows when I get them broken in. They seem to fit better than the Reds (no filng needed).11017

Nice Job on the Brakes. I'm looking to do a C6 RS6 390mm BBK myself. Just waiting to get my Tax money to send it all over to Grizz at Unit 20 in the UK. Anyway can't wait to hear what your impressions are on the Yellow Stuff pads.........

hahnmgh63

February 21st, 2011, 03:20

I was happy with the Reds, they lasted about 30K miles but as Pat said they don't seem to stand up to real agressive driving. My rotors looked just like Pat's, probably worse but they had a lot of miles on them. The Reds are definitely much less dust than the OEM pads, they Yellows are suppose to be as easy or easier on the Rotors than Reds, take more heat, but the drawback is they are suppose to dust as bad as OEM's, and I hate cleaing my wheels.

JSRS6

February 21st, 2011, 03:44

Well, i would say "normal driving" as in how we all probably drive the car. Pushed hard on the back roads on the weekend, and driven to work on the week days.

Ditto again, mostly ;-)

ben916

February 21st, 2011, 03:56

11018 I'll leave feedback on the Yellows when I get them broken in. They seem to fit better than the Reds (no filng needed).

I read and printed out the fabrication instructions and I have only one question on your install:
On your install, there are 4 bolts that hold the backing plate on.
It looks like you chose not to weld the upper one with a tab but to use a washer to hold the upper portion in place?
I am not being critical, just asking for clarification...

Also, did you create a template with paper first and then on the 4mm particle board?
I am fabricating mine next weekend.
How long did it take?
Did you also create a hole in each of the ducts?
The original instructions state something about a bolt being in the way and if you turn the bolt around AND create a relief hole in the duct, there will not be any contact during full steering lock.

yokust

February 21st, 2011, 04:24

I have had EBC yellows on both of my cars, and would not go with any other pad for the money

hahnmgh63

February 21st, 2011, 05:14

Ben I sourced my backing plates & ducts from Grizz and they came modifed, and without the small piece welded in for the 4th hole. The instructions that I had said 3 bolts was plenty but I had some oversized Stainless washers which seemed to make a good pinch fit with the 4th bolt for a little extra security. I'll run it lock to lock tomorrow and see if anything rubs but from the looks of it all is well.

DHall1

February 21st, 2011, 06:01

Did you see my old brake pad thread? I would pull those stock pads out tomorrow because there are pins that start to contact the brake rotor surface when the pad still has 50% thickness.

Ask Ben

For you EBC Red users; do they leave less brake dust on the wheels than OEM?

I have a set of EBC Reds waiting, but the stockers still have some life left in them. The amount of dust the OEM pads leave is horrendous. I may just swap them out before they are dead.

ben916

February 21st, 2011, 06:07

Did you see my old brake pad thread? I would pull those stock pads out tomorrow because there are pins that start to contact the brake rotor surface when the pad still has 50% thickness.

Ask Ben

GET that old OEM $hit out of there!!!
If I had listened to Dave, I would be about $1k richer!!!!

If you need a photo of the OEM's with the pins sticking thru AND a ton of brake pad left, let me know... it is kind of scary!

ben916

February 21st, 2011, 06:16

skribe

February 21st, 2011, 06:29

My brakepads are the finest crystal clear icecubes. Gratuitous threadjack for a nice pic I shot today :)

http://i815.photobucket.com/albums/zz73/droogie5/snowedschnaudi.jpg

marklar182

February 21st, 2011, 13:32

Did you see my old brake pad thread? I would pull those stock pads out tomorrow because there are pins that start to contact the brake rotor surface when the pad still has 50% thickness.

Ask Ben

GET that old OEM $hit out of there!!!
If I had listened to Dave, I would be about $1k richer!!!!

If you need a photo of the OEM's with the pins sticking thru AND a ton of brake pad left, let me know... it is kind of scary!

I have a full set of rotors waiting as well.

I check the rotors ~ once a week, when I clean all the damn brake dust off the wheels!

hahnmgh63

February 21st, 2011, 17:11

Ben I guess I didn't notice it because I already have the lower strut bolt in backwards. I must have installed it that way when I did my KW's so it looks like from the instructions that I'll be good but I am heading out to my shop in a hour or two and I'll definitely turn the wheel lock to lock just to make sure. If anything turns up, especially since my car sit at least 1.5~2" less than a DRC car there could always be something.

Brav

February 21st, 2011, 19:12

I have EBC reds, and had the same problem as Pat with my JHM rotors. I pulled them off (fronts only) and had them resurfaced, as I was getting vibration under braking... now its gone, and I will try a much gentler brake in.

Hot spotting is not uncommon.. basically from how I understand, there are variations in the rotor's hardness, which is a result of the casting process. If they were forged.. would be much more even. Maybe Cryo-treating them will help some of this. But basically certain spots push back "harder" against the pads, making those spots blue up more.