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PALETTE
February 3rd, 2011, 05:45
I Know I'm jumping the gun on the thread but I had to ask myself. Why replace a licquid to Air IC with a Wagner which is just a Air version??

Has anyone else asked themself that??
The Wagner is much bigger! And will Flow more but I'm surprised that the stock coolers are liquid cooled and are not cooLer then the Wagners

Brav
February 3rd, 2011, 07:12
Stock is not liquid cooled.. Are you thinking of the remote radiators behind the stock IC?

speedtrapped
February 3rd, 2011, 10:18
As brav said, the secondary unit attached behind the stock IC are aux rads. Which I actually removed, heat soaking in warmer months

JSRS6
February 3rd, 2011, 12:43
Even just removing the rear shrounds coming off the aux rads will help with this, as they trap a bunch of heat back there i have noticed cooler temps afterwards.

V8weight
February 3rd, 2011, 14:30
Even just removing the rear shrounds coming off the aux rads will help with this, as they trap a bunch of heat back there i have noticed cooler temps afterwards.
Don't do that, the shrouds help to evacuate hot air more efficiently.

PALETTE
February 3rd, 2011, 14:42
As brav said, the secondary unit attached behind the stock IC are aux rads. Which I actually removed, heat soaking in warmer months

Did you notice any diffrence at all after doing so?

JSRS6
February 3rd, 2011, 14:53
Don't do that, the shrouds help to evacuate hot air more efficiently.

From what I've noticed, they seemed to have been doing the opposite. My water temp takes longer to get to the middle since removing, and at highway speeds, cools better so the gauge dips below the middle, like right between the 1/4 and 1/2 mark. Never did that before removing.

V8weight
February 3rd, 2011, 15:48
From what I've noticed, they seemed to have been doing the opposite. My water temp takes longer to get to the middle since removing, and at highway speeds, cools better so the gauge dips below the middle, like right between the 1/4 and 1/2 mark. Never did that before removing.
This should not be happening, you either have a bad thermostat, or air in the cooling system.

JSRS6
February 3rd, 2011, 15:57
This should not be happening, you either have a bad thermostat, or air in the cooling system.

Ok, so after I change my thermostat during the tb job, if it still happens, then what? WWPD...:hihi:

MaxRS6
February 3rd, 2011, 16:13
LOL- WWPD...:hihi:

The other day when I rec'd the Apikol trans. mount, I says to the better half while I'm checking it out- "This is worth it and Pat did it to his car". She responds without missing a beat- "Weeeeellll- Since Pat did it....". I have a hunch this might come back on me on one of her girl shopping trips- "....so and so also bought (fill in the blank)..."

:)

V8weight
February 3rd, 2011, 16:31
Ok, so after I change my thermostat during the tb job, if it still happens, then what? WWPD...:hihi:
Monitor your coolant level, you may have a leak somewhere. When my after-run coolant pump started leaking, it would pull air into the system after I shut the car off, and trap it at the highest spot in the cooling system, the coolant temp sensor. I had the same symptoms as you, the car took too long to warm up, and when cruising on the freeway, the coolant temp dropped off. I guess I would start with a coolant system pressure test. If it holds pressure, then warm the car up and see if the stat is opening when the temp comes up, or if it's open from the get go. Your lower radiator hose should be cold until the coolant temp hits around 190F.

V8weight
February 3rd, 2011, 16:32
The other day when I rec'd the Apikol trans. mount, I says to the better half while I'm checking it out- "This is worth it and Pat did it to his car". She responds without missing a beat- "Weeeeellll- Since Pat did it....". I have a hunch this might come back on me on one of her girl shopping trips- "....so and so also bought (fill in the blank)..."

:)
LOL, well, since the beast is pretty much put up for the winter, the whole forum should be saving money. :)

JSRS6
February 3rd, 2011, 16:40
Monitor your coolant level, you may have a leak somewhere. When my after-run coolant pump started leaking, it would pull air into the system after I shut the car off, and trap it at the highest spot in the cooling system, the coolant temp sensor. I had the same symptoms as you, the car took too long to warm up, and when cruising on the freeway, the coolant temp dropped off. I guess I would start with a coolant system pressure test. If it holds pressure, then warm the car up and see if the stat is opening when the temp comes up, or if it's open from the get go. Your lower radiator hose should be cold until the coolant temp hits around 190F.

Thanks Pat. We all appreciate all that knowledge in your noggin. I think im gonna order the timing belt parts right now.

ben916
February 3rd, 2011, 16:42
LOL, well, since the beast is pretty much put up for the winter, the whole forum should be saving money. :)

No, some of us are just catching up... lunch money you know...

PALETTE
February 3rd, 2011, 16:45
lol, well, since the beast is pretty much put up for the winter, the whole forum should be saving money. :)

yea right!

Brav
February 3rd, 2011, 17:27
For anyone who has removed the Aux radiators - have you ever had the coolant temp rise during hard driving in hot weather (90deg plus)?

speedtrapped
February 3rd, 2011, 18:56
Brav, I think yokust has posted that he has been running sans aux rads in summer, no issues, hence why I did not attach to wagners. My verdict still out until weather gets warmer.

terrytcl
February 3rd, 2011, 21:12
i too would love to remove the aux radiators...

not sure exactly how much those help since they like 12"x10"x1" in size

SteveKen
February 4th, 2011, 14:35
i too would love to remove the aux radiators...

not sure exactly how much those help since they like 12"x10"x1" in size

I've been thinking of this. Watch for the new thread.

yokust
February 4th, 2011, 19:00
I have had my aux rads removed on both of my cars.

Have had ZERO cooling issues, even out of hot summer track days at High Plains Raceway.

And I have datalogged intake temps were a few degrees lower, even before Apikol intercoolers were added

JSRS6
February 4th, 2011, 19:06
I have had my aux rads removed on both of my cars.

Have had ZERO cooling issues, even out of hot summer track days at High Plains Raceway.

And I have datalogged intake temps were a few degrees lower, even before Apikol intercoolers were added

Did you replace the rear shrouds that come off the aux rads?

Brav
February 4th, 2011, 19:20
I have had my aux rads removed on both of my cars.

Have had ZERO cooling issues, even out of hot summer track days at High Plains Raceway.

And I have datalogged intake temps were a few degrees lower, even before Apikol intercoolers were added

Did you take out all of the pumping and re-plumb, or just put a bypass tube in the aux radiator locations?

speedtrapped
February 4th, 2011, 19:22
I followed Yokust's lead on this last month when I had my wagners installed, removed aux rads, and ran line from end to end...

yokust
February 4th, 2011, 19:24
Yes I reinstalled shrouds back on there.

i think they are essential to cooling properly. It has been proven many times with oil coolers that shrouding both sides with drastically help efficiency of coolers

yokust
February 4th, 2011, 19:25
I took out all of the plumbing

On the pass side you can connect a hose between the two ports where they are "t'ed" off the two pipes