Smoke signals, curious from where?

[speedtrapped]

So upon returning from dyno weekend, I cold a tatted my car in garage, with doors open, 5 minutes later, garage filled with smoke. Nothing out of tail pipes, Ty god. Opened hood and smoke rising from back end of engine. No oil spots on floor. Drover her for a week and nada, figured it was vc seepage, redlining dyno, etc. Started her up today and let warm up and some more smoke, same area back of engine, from inlet area. Am I safe to assume vc leak? And burning off on exhaust? No codes,car runs great, no boost issues, again no smoke from tailpipes.

[V8weight]

Valve cover or cam tensioner gasket, probably the latter. I don't know where you got the idea that redlining the car could cause oil leaks. The only way this could happen would be if you had an issue with the crankcase ventilation system. Try pulling the oil fill cap off with the engine running. If there is an issue with the CCV system, there will be excessive vacuum on the cap at idle. You'll have to inspect the rear of the head with an inspection mirror, but my money is on a bad cam tensioner gasket.

[speedtrapped]

I have said mirror, but aside from an easy ID of vc seal, where is cam tensioner location?, just under?

[V8weight]

There are two cam tensioners, one is on the front of the drivers side head, the other is on the rear of the passenger side. They reside between the valve cover and the head. There is both a coated steel gasket, and a rubber half moon gasket beneath them that are known for shrinking and blowing out. It could be that it's just a simple valve cover gasket leak, but I'd look into the crank case ventilation system before you replace any gaskets. If a pressure regulator valve has failed, your crank case will be under vacuum at idle, but pressurized under boost. Bad scene. I replaced both regulator valves and the PCV valve as a preventative measure this fall.

The pressure regulator valves are circled here in yellow, the PCV is circled in red.
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww228/Pellis833/002-21-2.jpg

[speedtrapped]

Pat, so if there is vacuum at oil cap, then I need replace pcv, regulator valves....also what is best solvent for pcv lines? Gasoline?

[V8weight]

Probably the regulator valves if vacuum is present at idle. I just use brake cleaner to rinse out the hoses after removal.

[speedtrapped]

Ok, well I can't imagine the pcv costs a lot ?, then again this is an rs6. Still if the regulators need to be swapped, then might as well pcv. It looks like a PIA to get to, yeah...

[V8weight]

The regulator valves are about $80 a piece, and I think the PCV valve is like $12. It's not that bad to change out, there's enough slack to pull it up almost into plain sight. Just make sure to buy new clamps, there's 3 that have to be replaced as the PCV is encased in a rubber grommet.

[speedtrapped]

Lol, the regulators $80, x2! Ty pat, I will search them out on genuine, wouldn't mind throwing me part # would ya? I swear I will install them myself.....btw, is it a sin not to use band clamps?, can't I just use hose clamps. Ty Pat

[V8weight]

The part number for the regulator valves is 034 129 101 C. There's no reason you couldn't just use hose clamps.

[speedtrapped]

ty Pat, i felt completly ashamed of my laziness, and after my last post went outside, took CF cover off and read part#. its amazing, Genuine carries it for $68, and ECS $90.00. The PCV valve # is all I am missing.

[V8weight]

Called a bleeder valve, 035 103 245 A

[speedtrapped]

aaahh no wonder keyword, PCV came up empty.....again, TY