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speedtrapped
October 21st, 2010, 09:57
So my brains came yesterday and when I got home from work, late- stayed up late to reinstall. Took her for a short test ride since I had to be up 430am, she drove awesome, great tune. No issues. However, went to start her this am, it's about 43 degrees and she cranks but won't start. I tried at least 4x concerned I will burn starter and drain the battery. Vagcom is in, but I have to get to work, so won't be able to do diagnostics till later tonight....a little bummed.starved for fuel?

JSRS6
October 21st, 2010, 11:34
Check for codes, check the ecu plug and tcu plug. Do you notice the prnds look weird when you tried to start?

speedtrapped
October 21st, 2010, 12:33
prnds? right after reinstalling last night, car turned right over no hesitation, no cel, nada, I drove her for 20 minutes, she was pulling like a new beast...was grinning from ear to ear...again no issue last night and no lights-only 2 things come to my mind, not enough spark(battery was disconnected, no issue prior) or no gas, still I'm feeling blind, cause this situation would be easier if I could pull codes, alas I had to get to work.

JSRS6
October 21st, 2010, 12:56
Park, reverse, neutral, drive, sport. On your gauge cluster or your shift plate, if they are all lit up.

speedtrapped
October 21st, 2010, 13:04
no, but then again, 445am I'm a zombie...honestly dont remember if I saw that or not, but when I get home tonight and try again, before vag what would wierd lights indicate on the shifter?

JSRS6
October 21st, 2010, 13:06
That would mean your tranny is in emergency mode, messes with the engine as well. How was it shifting last night?

speedtrapped
October 21st, 2010, 13:09
didnt shift any harder or softer but did carry gear a little longer, thought that was mtm tune...

JSRS6
October 21st, 2010, 13:11
Ok, prob not that then. The codes will tell the story. Or it'll just start up when you get home.

speedtrapped
October 21st, 2010, 13:13
I gotta tell ya the tcu re install, removal was PIA, I did pull not hard, but got the blackbox out from under rug, to where it hung on the door sill...could I have pulled something in harness? strange cause no issues really lastnight

speedtrapped
October 21st, 2010, 13:13
TY for your input JSRS6...

JSRS6
October 21st, 2010, 13:16
It wouldn't hurt to look at it, after you vag it this evening, if it's still screwy.

JRS-RS6
October 21st, 2010, 13:38
Check relays next to ECU.

JSRS6
October 21st, 2010, 13:40
Good idea. Maybe one got nudged during the install...

skribe
October 21st, 2010, 17:40
Fingers crossed for a loose connection.

speedtrapped
October 21st, 2010, 17:43
Ty Skribe, from your lips to gods ears......I will hopefully have some codes by 7pm tonight

JSRS6
October 21st, 2010, 18:06
Fingers crossed for a loose connection.

And toes, lol.

V8weight
October 21st, 2010, 20:25
Check relays next to ECU.
I second this, when you reinstall the lid on the ECU compartment, it takes quite a bit of attention not to knock the ECU relay loose out of it's socket. It's either this, or the e-prom has come loose on the ecu circuit board.

speedtrapped
October 21st, 2010, 20:38
Pat....uggghh, what is a loose e-prom? internal of ecu? cuased by mailing it out? and how come she drove great last night....this is torture until I vag....but ty, sorry have a bad day at work as well.

JSRS6
October 21st, 2010, 20:43
Electronic programmable read only memory. Non-volatile(info stays on chip without power) memory that the "tune" is flashed onto. This chip is what is replaced when they do your ecu. Right now id bet on the relay. But if they didn't solder a good connection on a pin and it came loose, that is also an easy fix.

speedtrapped
October 21st, 2010, 20:46
aah ok, but I thought the EC tune was a flash?

V8weight
October 21st, 2010, 20:48
Don't worry about it, the EC is a flash, not a soldered in E-Prom. I'm putting all my chips on the ecu relay.

JSRS6
October 21st, 2010, 20:52
Don't worry about it, the EC is a flash, not a soldered in E-Prom. I'm putting all my chips on the ecu relay.

In that case, me too.

JSRS6
October 21st, 2010, 20:53
Don't worry about it, the EC is a flash, not a soldered in E-Prom. I'm putting all my chips on the ecu relay.

Which relay is it for when he gets home?

JRS-RS6
October 21st, 2010, 22:31
There are several to the right (drivers referenced) of the ECU, the lid is hard to get on and off without disturbing them which is why to me this seems the most likely. Codes will be many if it is as when the car won't start it causes consequential codes too (timing, fueling, blah, blah, blah).

Elevens
October 22nd, 2010, 00:39
Sorry to hear about your situation Speedtrapped. If It drove Ok yesterday, then I am thinking its something simple such as a loose connection somewhere. I was thinking ECU, but once connected that locks in pretty good. Almost impossible to have a bad connection there. So as others have said maybe a loose relay on the side of the ECU. Whatever it is lets hope its something simple. Good luck.......

speedtrapped
October 22nd, 2010, 00:51
Well I am at a loss, not relays they were seated correctly, tried to start again with top off and making sure relays were snug. Finally downloaded vcds, and went to pull codes, assuming 4b a6 c5 was right reference vehicle. As I pressed auto scan, engine fan was running and then battery was draining, read6 volts, I didn't even finish entire scan because it was coming back low voltage, however it did read, 18258 powerstrain data bus, missing message from ecu, p1850-003, when abs fault codes as well....so is it bad battery? I did disconnect pos terminal for 3 days, battery weak.... Or is it the tcu and me cranking 4 times?

JSRS6
October 22nd, 2010, 01:06
Sounds like it. Others have gotten a field of faults like that from low voltage. The can bus can't communicate when the voltage is low.

DHall1
October 22nd, 2010, 01:22
Try to charge the battery and or jump start.

JSRS6
October 22nd, 2010, 01:31
What he said. Or just charge it overnight and clear the codes in the morning.

Elevens
October 22nd, 2010, 01:41
Missing message from ECU is not good. Got that same message when my A6 ECU was re-chipped from AWE tuning. Wound up being my ECU was shot. Since yours was not re-chipped but flashed I am not going to call a bad ECU. But who knows. As far as the CAN BUS is concerned it usually operates in the 2-3V range, so communication should still be possible. I guess as Dave said charge the battery and see what happens. This might enable us to determine the initial problem which is still there.......

DALLAS_RS6
October 22nd, 2010, 04:18
Had a similar problem with mine. It turned out to be a solder on the chip in the ECU shorting out.

viperbl
October 22nd, 2010, 08:12
First of all I would get the battery charged up fully, then see if you get the EPC light on the dash with ignition on? Try just going to 01 Engine in VAG COM rather than doing scan and check for codes ...

The fans usually come on full blast when it can’t communicate with the Engine ECU

In my experience, nearly all ECU’s can be recovered with the correct tools.

hahnmgh63
October 22nd, 2010, 10:21
I would have to agree that you almost need to start from scratch charge the battery and leave the car on the charger so it is getting full voltage when you do the scan. You can skip running all of the modules to start with and just go to the engine module, then the transmission module and run individual scans so it doesn't take but a few seconds compared to do the whole chasis scan. And yes, the 4B A6 C5 is the correct module finder scan but just do the individual modules separately for this.

JSRS6
October 22nd, 2010, 15:57
So how did it go speedtrapped? Charge the battery overnight?

DHall1
October 22nd, 2010, 16:26
Charged battery reconnected the ecu ran fine then shut car off and did it again. crank no start. sending ecu back to EC to clear and reflash mailboxes. try again.


So how did it go speedtrapped? Charge the battery overnight?

JSRS6
October 22nd, 2010, 16:28
Dave, are you running the same beta version as him? You haven't been having this problem?

viperbl
October 22nd, 2010, 17:00
Charged battery reconnected the ecu ran fine then shut car off and did it again. crank no start. sending ecu back to EC to clear and reflash mailboxes. try again.

Any codes or comms to the ecu?

DHall1
October 22nd, 2010, 17:13
This was a new version from europe. My file is getting loaded for Steve on this go round. Zero problems with my file since day one.


Dave, are you running the same beta version as him? You haven't been having this problem?

JSRS6
October 22nd, 2010, 17:16
Looking forward to next week.

speedtrapped
October 22nd, 2010, 17:40
well, sorry I didnt get back in time....Ty Dave for the color. Yep, we charged her, tried to run codes, nada. then we took ecu off harness, reinstalled and turned her over-ran great drove her again and she drove wicked, perfect. w/ my mechanic in car, drove back to my house turned her off, pulled key went To restart, nada,,,turns over but no fire. pulled ecu and reinstalled , bamm started right up. we did this 4x, each time we had her running, he did pull codes, cleared and pulled....no problem tcu, no immobilizer, something 30(sorry blanking right now)....each time we shut her off she would not restart. as Dave stated shipped her off to EC for a reflash. Will keep ya posted, should have it back tues.
TY everyone
Stephen

skribe
October 22nd, 2010, 19:00
Well, that's good. Software bugs can always be squashed. Dumb question, but did you try just disconnecting the positive battery lead and shorting to ground to ghetto-reset the ECU? Thinking that by pulling it you were possibly just resetting it.

Either way, sounds like some rogue code in the tune, a ghost in the machine which will hopefully be purged on the flash. Before experimenting with alt tunes, it's ideal to have a second ECU coded to your car. Unfortunately their aren't many out there.

V8weight
October 22nd, 2010, 19:06
Before experimenting with alt tunes, it's ideal to have a second ECU coded to your car. Unfortunately their aren't many out there.
Ditto...........

speedtrapped
October 22nd, 2010, 20:15
live and learn....I actually thought I was getting Daves, but I did not, no big deal.

speedtrapped
October 25th, 2010, 16:31
Ok so I spoke with jerry this am, he has my ECU-he sent me a photo of my board, turns out a jumper was dislodged, stock on the epoxy, he is resoldering it. He has to check the otherside as well, fingers xxing.....I emailed Dave the photo, because I dont think I can post at the office....

marklar182
October 25th, 2010, 16:55
I take it this was probably from shipping, correct?

speedtrapped
October 25th, 2010, 16:57
i gotta assume-but Jerry did note, that back in the old days when an ecu was flashed, this jumper would be removed for flash then resoldered. I know duckwingduck had the engine stock, but maybe 1st owner had it flashed? If not then yep, likely box saw alot of tossing and bouncing around

SteveKen
October 25th, 2010, 17:44
What's the history with your ECU? Please excuse me if it's already been posted.

So, you sent it somewhere for a reflash? Got it back, it ran once and then will not run again?

If I was messing with the tune and did a reflash and this happened, then I would suspect that it's some type checksum error.

In other words, the car runs fine (or through one cycle) until it re-verifies that things are as they should be and then locks down?

Does this make sense?

JSRS6
October 25th, 2010, 17:55
What's the history with your ECU? Please excuse me if it's already been posted.

So, you sent it somewhere for a reflash? Got it back, it ran once and then will not run again?

If I was messing with the tune and did a reflash and this happened, then I would suspect that it's some type checksum error.

In other words, the car runs fine (or through one cycle) until it re-verifies that things are as they should be and then locks down?

Does this make sense?

I was thinking the same thing, that or a register. But it seems it was just a simple jumper that came loose.

ben916
October 25th, 2010, 17:55
i gotta assume-but Jerry did note, that back in the old days when an ecu was flashed, this jumper would be removed for flash then resoldered. I know duckwingduck had the engine stock, but maybe 1st owner had it flashed? If not then yep, likely box saw alot of tossing and bouncing around

Probably the 20" rims and KWv3 settings...

speedtrapped
October 25th, 2010, 18:04
I was under the impression the car was stock as per last owner(duckwingduck). I wanted to flash my ecu/tcu. Installed both when units came back, EC and MTM. On maiden start, (drove car prior, no issues, even had the TB/75k service, no codes) car ran like a raped beast. Shut her off went to bed, woke up nada, crank no run. check relays, and connections, everything checked. Had my audi mechanic friend make house call. codes werent coming in, battery was reading low voltage. Then he removed ecu and plugged back in and bam, started right up. Huh? So I thank him, and said lets turn her off and start again, just to be safe, nada no start, crank but no fire. we did this 4x, same result, unplgged and replugged started-turn off key and restart, nada. Jerry @ EC was at a loss, but has been great to deal with. He got the ECU this am, opened it up, found a jumper that had fallen off, resoldered, bench tested everything, no issues! In transit back to my house tomorrow-cant wait! Keep you all posted. Ty

speedtrapped
October 25th, 2010, 18:05
Probably the 20" rims and KWv3 settings...

Ben u might be on to something, my car rides rails and any little bump at hi speed and the front end bangs, not literally, but u know what I mean

ben916
October 25th, 2010, 18:13
Ben u might be on to something, my car rides rails and any little bump at hi speed and the front end bangs, not literally, but u know what I mean

I remember riding in it once and there was that type of road surface that is similar to when a dirt road is dry and driven on alot with the ripples/ridges/waves.
It was in a corner and it felt like the front was skipping/sliding over the top of the crest of each ridge/wave.
It was a very odd sensation - on power - turning - skipping/sliding - yet gripping kind of ...
It was oversteer (front pushes and rear is straight) or understeer (front grips and rear comes around?)

edit: and I wasn't driving....

speedtrapped
October 25th, 2010, 18:16
man I luv the rims, but now almost tempted to go 19" with a softer type profile(tire), any way to soften the KWv? I luv the handling....

ben916
October 25th, 2010, 18:22
man I luv the rims, but now almost tempted to go 19" with a softer type profile(tire), any way to soften the KWv? I luv the handling....

Greg said the same thing about going to a 19"
Search for Headshot's modification to the shock tower so as you can change the settings without removing big pieces of V8 or suspension pieces - VERY nice DIY with photos

speedtrapped
October 25th, 2010, 18:26
Ty Ben......

speedtrapped
October 25th, 2010, 18:52
Ben-unrelated, but curious, would these fit? I am not rim/tire knowledgable.....
http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=42861&title=asa-ar1-powder-coated-black-with-255-2f35-2f19-lm-25-blizzaks-21&cat=48

SteveKen
October 25th, 2010, 18:58
So is the jumper used by the tuner for bootstrapping? It seems that you need to reset your ecu every time you start it.

It all sounds a little weird for me. Who's doing the flashing of your ECU? Is it MTM? (who is EC, btw?) I hope that whomever it was reflashed it again before sending it back.

ben916
October 25th, 2010, 19:04
Ben-unrelated, but curious, would these fit? I am not rim/tire knowledgable.....
http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=42861&title=asa-ar1-powder-coated-black-with-255-2f35-2f19-lm-25-blizzaks-21&cat=48

not sure, I saw those also.... I don't see a bolt pattern given 5x112 or 5x120, etc...
Their concern of not fitting over the calipers might be something to be an issue for you also.

How about these? :)
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=25

I can't seem to find a saved link on how to figure tire combinations/rim combination/etc..

DHall1
October 25th, 2010, 19:18
It seems this ecu was reflashed in the past.

Shipping and jarring may have help dislodge the component.

EC is Eurocharge and Jerry in TX.

Companies have glitches like this from time to time. They have all had these sorts of glitches. Bench flashing in the past involved taking the cover off and powering up the board manually. May or may not have helped this problem.

I think Stephen has a workable fix and the flash is reloaded and on its way.


So is the jumper used by the tuner for bootstrapping? It seems that you need to reset your ecu every time you start it.

It all sounds a little weird for me. Who's doing the flashing of your ECU? Is it MTM? (who is EC, btw?) I hope that whomever it was reflashed it again before sending it back.

DHall1
October 25th, 2010, 19:20
Most likely not.

Did you see the snows for sale by a forum member? He is up in your neck of the woods and has a full set of oem rims with snows ready to go.




Ben-unrelated, but curious, would these fit? I am not rim/tire knowledgable.....
http://www.audizine.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=42861&title=asa-ar1-powder-coated-black-with-255-2f35-2f19-lm-25-blizzaks-21&cat=48

speedtrapped
October 25th, 2010, 19:30
not sure, I saw those also.... I don't see a bolt pattern given 5x112 or 5x120, etc...
Their concern of not fitting over the calipers might be something to be an issue for you also.

How about these? :)
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=25

I can't seem to find a saved link on how to figure tire combinations/rim combination/etc..

LMAO......maybe but hopefully I have some $ left over after the neon light underbody treatment!

speedtrapped
October 25th, 2010, 19:33
Most likely not.

Did you see the snows for sale by a forum member? He is up in your neck of the woods and has a full set of oem rims with snows ready to go.

I did, I actually bought covertw12's OEM's for the winter, pretty good price as well. I wasnt happy about going back to 18"-but for the winter I guess why not.

SteveKen
October 25th, 2010, 19:55
It seems this ecu was reflashed in the past.

Shipping and jarring may have help dislodge the component.

EC is Eurocharge and Jerry in TX.

Companies have glitches like this from time to time. They have all had these sorts of glitches. Bench flashing in the past involved taking the cover off and powering up the board manually. May or may not have helped this problem.

I think Stephen has a workable fix and the flash is reloaded and on its way.

I'd still like the know the purpose of the jumper. The only jumpers I've seen on ECUs are for boot strapping, as it's the only way some ECUs can be flashed. Soldering a jumper is overkill for just a simple reflash. Its much easier to do with a pin when bench flashing unless the ECU is being tweaked and will need to be reflashed many times.

I can't imagine an ECU taking any more abuse from shipping than it would take during normal driving. Especially on the PA roads.

DHall1
October 25th, 2010, 20:01
Sorry my crystal ball is broke. A broken component was found inside the ecu case when returned. This particular jumper was/could have been used in a prev bench flash. Not my eyes on it only a jpg.


I'd still like the know the purpose of the jumper. The only jumpers I've seen on ECUs are for boot strapping, as it's the only way some ECUs can be flashed. Soldering a jumper is overkill for just a simple reflash. Its much easier to do with a pin when bench flashing unless the ECU is being tweaked and will need to be reflashed many times.

I can't imagine an ECU taking any more abuse from shipping than it would take during normal driving. Especially on the PA roads.

SteveKen
October 25th, 2010, 20:09
Hopefully its all sorted out now, but I'd bet on the software being the issue and/or having a bad tune or flash.

The ECU works, then is shipped out and reflashed and then it doesn't work.

speedtrapped
October 25th, 2010, 20:22
Hopefully its all sorted out now, but I'd bet on the software being the issue and/or having a bad tune or flash.

The ECU works, then is shipped out and reflashed and then it doesn't work.

well, lets see what happens tomorrow, from the pic he sent, magnified and circled in red, clearly a piece had broke, jarred, dislodged off. It happened to get stuck on the silcone(black) that sealed box. Now Jerry is also sending me a device that has stock reflash...ergo if I install and I have an issue I can flash back to stock. I have to say Jerry has been excellent to deal with. Frankly given my set up, suspension and tires, on top of UPS handling, its not out of the realm for a piece to come off, especially if the ecu had a tune on it prior.

ben916
October 25th, 2010, 22:04
I don't seem to remember Greg stating that he had an ECU tune as he would have told me or Dave about it.
Maybe the prior owner to Greg owning it did, as to me, it didn't feel any different than a stocker...

DHall1
October 25th, 2010, 22:26
Uncle


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IU1bzZheWk

ben916
October 25th, 2010, 22:33
Uncle

What ARE you trying to say, Dave???


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-Z5IzXYbCw&feature=watch_response_rev

JSRS6
October 25th, 2010, 22:34
Uncle


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7IU1bzZheWk

Dave, you're a riot. I hope to be tuned by the end of the week...did you get my log?

JSRS6
October 25th, 2010, 22:35
What ARE you trying to say, Dave???


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-Z5IzXYbCw&feature=watch_response_rev

Post fail! Lmao

DHall1
October 25th, 2010, 22:37
I did but what was that format? jpg?

Can you send me the entire .csv log? do you have turbo mode on your vag?

Got to run ttyl

DHall1
October 27th, 2010, 03:43
I just got off the phone with a little birdie.

The birdie told me that a certain RS6 out east is running like a bat out of hell.

Hahahah

More to follow.

speedtrapped
October 27th, 2010, 03:49
Yep, can't sleep, and I have to be up in 5 hours. Jerry at Eurocharged is awesome! He soldered, reshipped, and was on phone with me tonight, huge fan of him! Vroooommm, vroooommm - all I can say is, ooopha she pulls like a horse shot up with enough steroids for a brigade. Dyno Saturday , Ty everyone, especially Dave.

DHall1
October 27th, 2010, 04:02
Dont tell anyone about the last exhaust setup. I will call him tomorrow.

speedtrapped
October 27th, 2010, 10:12
Hurry while supplies last!

DHall1
October 29th, 2010, 00:01
That little birdie just sent me a data log file.

I only have one thing to say.

Oh boy this is fast.

speedtrapped
October 29th, 2010, 00:54
ahh yeah, the birdie dropped some drops along the the way, and nearly ran into a window!!! Dyno's this saturday, post afternoon!

DHall1
October 31st, 2010, 00:48
All I can say is "oh $hit" there is one bad a$$ RS6 running around up there Jersey. I will make some nice charts and graphs and post them later.

Hot doggie. She is a beauty.

DHall1
October 31st, 2010, 06:10
Are we havin fun yet?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvV3nn_de2k

http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a476/drh11/stephendynorunlog.jpg

DHall1
October 31st, 2010, 06:22
Blah, blah, blah

http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a476/drh11/RS6com%20resize/stevedynorunexcelfile.jpg

V8weight
October 31st, 2010, 06:51
Boost leak..........

JSRS6
October 31st, 2010, 09:32
Boost leak..........

Stock, leaky intercooler boost leak?

speedtrapped
October 31st, 2010, 13:21
Not sure about a boost leak, I was told that the boost curve was kept conservative to keep timing advanced. When tech did TB service he replaced IC hoses with venair/and Tclamps. dont have any codes for boost leak. Now I do have stock IC, and I did have signs of black stains at bootom of driverside cooler. That being said if I do have a boost leak, god help me.

speedtrapped
October 31st, 2010, 13:25
here is a couple of videos
http://i2.ytimg.com/vi/ECX9YCbwStE/default.jpg
http://i2.ytimg.com/vi/AzeGFSmwVdA/default.jpg

speedtrapped
October 31st, 2010, 13:28
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ECX9YCbwStE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AzeGFSmwVdA


sorry i dont think the last reply works

MaxRS6
October 31st, 2010, 13:38
Here ya go speedtrapped- thanks for sharing!

<EMBED height=385 type=application/x-shockwave-flash width=640 src=http://www.youtube.com/v/ECX9YCbwStE?fs=1&hl=en_US allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always"></EMBED> (file://<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ECX9YCbwStE?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ECX9YCbwStE?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>)
<EMBED height=385 type=application/x-shockwave-flash width=640 src=http://www.youtube.com/v/AzeGFSmwVdA?fs=1&hl=en_US allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always"></EMBED> (file://<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/ECX9YCbwStE?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/ECX9YCbwStE?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>)

DHall1
October 31st, 2010, 16:31
I have input on this but no time to get into everything. The boost curve is conservative but the car is not holding all the boost at high rpm. So there may be a slight leak. Keep driving

sit tight....if there is a slight boost leak. Start looking for a drivers side intercooler to swap in at some point in time. Pick one up and have it pressure checked or just buy a single new unit.

Get a few more street data logs to confirm.


Not sure about a boost leak, I was told that the boost curve was kept conservative to keep timing advanced. When tech did TB service he replaced IC hoses with venair/and Tclamps. dont have any codes for boost leak. Now I do have stock IC, and I did have signs of black stains at bootom of driverside cooler. That being said if I do have a boost leak, god help me.

V8weight
October 31st, 2010, 16:48
Not sure about a boost leak, I was told that the boost curve was kept conservative to keep timing advanced. When tech did TB service he replaced IC hoses with venair/and Tclamps. dont have any codes for boost leak. Now I do have stock IC, and I did have signs of black stains at bootom of driverside cooler. That being said if I do have a boost leak, god help me.
It looked like it was taking too long to meet specified boost, but it is making full boost by about 3500rpm. In retrospect, your tune is specifying full boost by like 1500rpm, and there's just no way that the turbo's can actually meet that requirement. I think if the graph was stretched a little longer, it wouldn't look so alarming.

DHall1
October 31st, 2010, 17:06
Early part of the graph looks like that because the pull was started from a low rpm point.

Its the latter part of the graph that shows the actual boost is not keeping with the requested. And its not like the requested is too high.

May or may not be a boost leak because this car still has stock downpipes. Only way to know for sure is to pressure test

DHall1
October 31st, 2010, 21:51
Stephen,

Just keep on truckin. No problem with the actual boost at high rpm. That is all the boost a car with stock downpipes will attain. Thats all I make at high rpm.




Early part of the graph looks like that because the pull was started from a low rpm point.

Its the latter part of the graph that shows the actual boost is not keeping with the requested. And its not like the requested is too high.

May or may not be a boost leak because this car still has stock downpipes. Only way to know for sure is to pressure test

speedtrapped
October 31st, 2010, 22:22
hmmmm Apikol anyone? damn do u think the wife will believe another Christmas present?

V8weight
October 31st, 2010, 22:38
hmmmm Apikol anyone? damn do u think the wife will believe another Christmas present?
I'm just running the stock intercoolers, resealed with JB Weld. Is it wrong that my car is increasing boost all the way to redline? :) Holding 2000mbar of boost and 26 degrees of timing to redline. As MC Hammer once said, you can't touch this. :)
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww228/Pellis833/Viperautumngraph.jpg

MaxRS6
October 31st, 2010, 22:49
Pat- that looks pretty dang good and healthy...Go JB and stock intercoolers as two new ones rest under my bonnett! I have almost 3K on mine and not a spot (who knows in 5k??)...LOL

DHall1
October 31st, 2010, 23:03
Stephen,

Your stock ICs are doing just fine.

You are pulling 21.8 degrees of timing advance at redline. But more importantly you are pulling 11.3 degrees of advance at peak boost/torque points along with a nice .880v from the O2 sensors. Very nice. Mr Hammer has you by a couple of degrees at redline but remember he has gutted primary cats. And no, you cant touch that. So we all know who the winner is....



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=otCpCn0l4Wo



hmmmm Apikol anyone? damn do u think the wife will believe another Christmas present?

speedtrapped
October 31st, 2010, 23:18
well, let me explain.... when I wrote god help me, I was not inferring more $ to spend, well cause I'm an car nut, thats a given. I was referring if my IC's are leaking, look out-the car is insane IMO as it is, if I am leaking and decide to drop another $1500(i would go aftermkt) I assume it can only get more wicked....All I need is my milltek right now, need the neighbors to wake up with me @ 430am.....

V8weight
October 31st, 2010, 23:26
well, let me explain.... when I wrote god help me, I was not inferring more $ to spend, well cause I'm an car nut, thats a given. I was referring if my IC's are leaking, look out-the car is insane IMO as it is, if I am leaking and decide to drop another $1500(i would go aftermkt) I assume it can only get more wicked....All I need is my milltek right now, need the neighbors to wake up with me @ 430am.....
If you do go the aftermarket route with the intercoolers, I would recommend holding out for the ER intercoolers. They're not on the market as of yet, but are coming soon, and they make a great product. I'm holding out for a set of these myself.

speedtrapped
October 31st, 2010, 23:40
oooohhhh Pat pls elaborate, who is ER and why are they better then wagner or apikol?

V8weight
October 31st, 2010, 23:45
oooohhhh Pat pls elaborate, who is ER and why are they better then wagner or apikol?
http://evolutionraceworks.com/?q=catalog/139
ER has a long standing reputation for making the highest quality and most effective intercoolers on the market. I don't car for the Apikols, because they are just a re-cored stock intercooler. I don't care for the Wagner's because they fit like ten pounds of shit in a 5 pound bag. Just my 2 cents.....

speedtrapped
October 31st, 2010, 23:56
your .02 cents is $$ to me. Appreciate the suggestion, any idea when they are coming? and how much(assuming you have investigated these) TIA

V8weight
November 1st, 2010, 00:07
I myself just happened upon these Friday evening, so I'm not any more informed than you are at this point, but I plan on giving them a call tomorrow. I'm not in a real hurry to upgrade mine at the moment though, as mine aren't leaking, and a more efficient intercooler won't really be very useful to me for the next 6 months (winter). So this may be a spring project.

DHall1
November 1st, 2010, 00:12
Yep, that was my take on the matter. You will notice no difference in performance output.

You got wicked fast and the only thing to make her faster at this point will be to gut the stock downpipes.


well, let me explain.... when I wrote god help me, I was not inferring more $ to spend, well cause I'm an car nut, thats a given. I was referring if my IC's are leaking, look out-the car is insane IMO as it is, if I am leaking and decide to drop another $1500(i would go aftermkt) I assume it can only get more wicked....All I need is my milltek right now, need the neighbors to wake up with me @ 430am.....

speedtrapped
November 1st, 2010, 00:22
i'm thinking late spring, winter here is cold, not MN cold, but cold enough......see I'm addicted, scary......millteks soon:love: oh yeah and Jerry is hooking me up with a tune for my V10:revs:

JSRS6
November 1st, 2010, 00:26
I talked to the guys at ER back when they were looking for a beta tester. If I remember correctly, they were about the same as wagners. Matt@Ravenms has them on the 6mt...

surferdude
November 1st, 2010, 19:34
Just curious on your dyno #'s, did I miss the hp/tq output? I've seeked, but cannot find.

speedtrapped
November 1st, 2010, 19:47
surferdude, I am still waiting on the logs from the tuningshop(Subaru shop), closed Monday. They incorporate a dynojet, and thetech's had never pulled an Audi. They were unable to get a tach signal off my coilpack, #1 cyclinder. They did get fueltrim and HP, best pull was 400.47whp...as soon as I get email I will post, btw I plan on using a diff shop that has pulled Audi, I am really interested in Tq #

surferdude
November 1st, 2010, 21:20
Just curious on your dyno #'s, did I miss the hp/tq output? I've seeked, but cannot find.

surferdude
November 1st, 2010, 23:37
Sorry, I didn't post this repeat thread. Thanks for the reply speedtrapped, good luck with the dyno!

hahnmgh63
November 1st, 2010, 23:51
I'm actually quite happy with the fit and the quality of the Wagners. I probably have about 5K on them so far. I spoke to Grizz at length about these before ordering and one of his comments was that they used all stock mounts and that they do fit tight as they are enlarged in all directions from stock which causes the tight fit but still using the stock mounts nonetheless. I fit them myself and tried to hurry a little with a few shortcuts but in the long run it took me as much time as if I'd followed their directions. I did it without removing the inner fender liners but I wouldn't do another set without them pulled as you need to look back their upon fitment, not just to have access to the front bumper mounting bolts. They are pricey but the do fit like OEM without any cutting or mods except the ducting, and of course they are German so you are paying somewhat for the weak dollar and the fact that they are German.