Some service costs:

[LIRS6]

As many potential buyers are consistently asking questions about maintenance costs, I thought I'd list
my dealer service charges incurred today:


Oil/filter change (I specify 7 units only - not 8) : $110

Replace torn front/right outside CV boot : $252

Replace spark plugs, air filters, cabin filter : $491

[DonS]

Serpentine belt replacement; labor $230, part (1 077-903-137-Q) $90, total $320.

[V8weight]

Oh, this is too much fun!

Replace HVAC blower motor...$412.27
Alignment....$109.95
Replace N80 valve....$326.17
Replace Torque Converter....$5112.15
Replace Primary O2 sensors...$3158.59
Replace secondary O2 sensors...$3053.72
Replace secondary coolant pump...$2147.93
Replace alternator...$1399.58
Replace EGT sensors...$3553.40
Replace trans filter/refill...$645

To name a few.....

[MaxRS6]

Ditto on the fun...;0

Fuel Tank & Lines $2,900
Drive Shaft $784
Intake Manifold Gasket leak $1,300
ABS Module $1,800
Cam Adjuster & Position Sensor $2,350
Two Turbos approx $5,000 installed
Window Regulator $400
Repair Oil Coolant Pump Seal $3,000 Parts Less than $100

Just some quick good time memories that pop to the top of the charts

[DreamingOfCars]

Local dealer Barrier Audi quoted the following (all prices after tax):
35k - 2222.93
55k - 1311.73
65k - 454.49
75k - 2282.53
95k - 1311.73

Brakes all around pads and rotors - 2943.90
PPI - 250

Indy mechanic (Redmond European) quoted me the following:
110/hr for labor, all work warrantied for 18 mos. You can bring your own parts, but then you don't get the warranty.
55k - 911.06
75k - 2951.03
Full brakes and rotors + oil change - 2510.95 (oil change is about 140 of that, brake labor is 440)

[DHall1]

I doubt Barrier is servicing the timing belt and all the needed rollers and tensioners, plugs, fuel filter and all the other needed items for 2200 dollars. 35 and 75k.


Local dealer Barrier Audi quoted the following (all prices after tax):
35k - 2222.93
55k - 1311.73
65k - 454.49
75k - 2282.53
95k - 1311.73

Brakes all around pads and rotors - 2943.90
PPI - 250

Indy mechanic (Redmond European) quoted me the following:
110/hr for labor, all work warrantied for 18 mos. You can bring your own parts, but then you don't get the warranty.
55k - 911.06
75k - 2951.03
Full brakes and rotors + oil change - 2510.95 (oil change is about 140 of that, brake labor is 440)

[hahnmgh63]

So far, oil changes & transmission flushes (cost of parts only), KWV3's cost of parts only and trash bin full of newly replaced DRC parts priceless. 35K service on warranty and the car has been rock solid. Now at 66K so next timing belt & roller service, waterpump, serpentine, etc... will be on me. Still hoping for the tranny to go so I can replace it. Some RS6's weren't made on Monday's or Fridays I guess but I've done some other preventive such as partial vacuum line replacement with silicone lines, plugs, MAF's, BOV's.

[speedtrapped]

Hmmmm, so my beast has 71k on the clock-I'm doing 75k service Monday , stealership quoted 3500.00, a large performance shop in nj quoted me 2700.00, but Phil from detailers domain(who previously owned rs6) had all of his service, tb etc done @ drive autowerks, told me don has worked on many rs6, trust worthy and work done is good. Don quoted me( I literally cut and paste service list) and he quoted me 1700.00. He is also doing coil packs , venair, and k &n-those are not part of that quote

[marklar182]

Only had the car ~ 2 months

2 Michelin PS2's $733
75K maint (plus brake flush, power steering flush) $800 labor $1365 parts (independent shop w/ RS 6 expierience)
Inner/Outer Tie Rod $275 parts and labor
N214 Coolant Valve leaking $325 parts and labor
Alignment $160

[DHall1]

Very good news.

Get the MTM TCU chip and ECU reflash with the money you saved. wink Mine is flat out awesome.


Hmmmm, so my beast has 71k on the clock-I'm doing 75k service Monday , stealership quoted 3500.00, a large performance shop in nj quoted me 2700.00, but Phil from detailers domain(who previously owned rs6) had all of his service, tb etc done @ drive autowerks, told me don has worked on many rs6, trust worthy and work done is good. Don quoted me( I literally cut and paste service list) and he quoted me 1700.00. He is also doing coil packs , venair, and k &n-those are not part of that quote

[V8weight]

Very good news.

Get the MTM TCU chip and ECU reflash with the money you saved. wink Mine is flat out awesome.
We may find out soon in Colorado who's is awesome-est ;)

[Chung]

For some reason I really like this thread even though it is depressing me. I would like to add a suggestion that if you have the mileage to include that as well.
Being the nerd that I am I wonder if there is enough data to know which parts you should replace together to save on labor, which parts can be hardened and how we can lower the cost of ownship of these cars.

[DHall1]

Hehe.....but I can get around corners faster.

And then we shall play 18 holes for 10 bucks a skin.

Chung-many of the quotes listed are what the extended warranty paid for the claim. As a guide....my car has 35k. The only claim on my car in over 2 years has been control arm bushings for 500 bucks. I have done the brakes and 35k service at home.


We may find out soon in Colorado who's is awesome-est ;)

[DreamingOfCars]

Anything done under warranty will probably be billed at a rate higher than you could find if you shopped it around. My analogy on how the warranty stuff works is akin to medical billing - they probably charge a higher rate and the warranty company pays like 60 cents on the dollar. This is total speculation, but given how much warranties cost I find it hard to believe they would make a profit covering multiple 5k repairs. It makes the warranties seem cheap to us, but something is clearly going on behind the scenes. Also, keep in mind that replacing a 300 dollar part on this car can cost 3k+ because of an engine pull. Some indies can work with you on the price if they know the tricks for not pulling the engine (which isn't always possible).

Your best bet if you want to save money on routine stuff is learn how to do it yourself or find someone who can. Join some local car clubs, as I guarantee a lot of locals work on their own Audis/Porsches/BMWs etc. and they could probably help out. A lot of the threads here talk about places to order parts from at a nice discount. Even if you can't do it yourself, a place like Redmond European will charge you 2 hours of labor for brakes+rotors and lets you bring your own, you just don't get the warranty like I mentioned (but on routine service, I'm not sure this matters). I'll keep you posted on any further info I find out about locally.

The most obvious way to reduce your cost of ownership is to drive it less. Keep a cheap low maintenance car around in addition to this one and use that for longer trips or the 1 mile grocery runs that put more strain on it. I thought about doing this myself, but the garage situation would be kind of annoying.

[skribe]

Your best bet if you want to save money on routine stuff is learn how to do it yourself...

Only a helpless chump would pay 3k for a brake job. Yes, the parts are expensive, but if you can change a tire and google, man-up, head to the garage, DIY the brakes and save a four figure sum that would be better applied toward a case of Havana Club Añejo 7 Años or whatever.


The most obvious way to reduce your cost of ownership is to drive it less. Keep a cheap low maintenance car around in addition to this one and use that for longer trips or the 1 mile grocery runs that put more strain on it.

That was my theory. Then I got hooked on the RS 6 crack pipe and barely touch cars two and three... :addict:

[Chung]

My plan is to learn a bit more about the interworkings of the car and do some of the work myself (maybe a fellow Seattle person needs some extra hands in exchange for experience). Not having a place to work on the car is a problem but my aunt in Portland has a lift she will let me use.

BTW I am not trying to complain about the maintenance because I am coming into the car with open eyes. I was so worried about the maintenance cost of the car I decided to take a loan out on it just so I would have extra cash to fix it if the car broke. I am also on the fence about selling my S4 (partly because I love the car and partly because I want something to drive during my RS6 downtimes)

Even when you are not taking the car into a shop I am sure it would be nice to save on the labor by replacing parts that are known to fail at x amount of miles if you are already "in there" (for example an engine pull or replacing a fuel tank :) ). Other things that are interesting to me are items that might leave you stranded (fuel pump, alternator, etc). Fuel pumps on the S4 typically died around the 100k mark and most recommend replacing it before it dies because it sucks to get stranded.

[DHall1]

Extended warranty rates are not billed at UCR. Extended warranty reimbursement is generally billed at a discount on parts and labor rates at factory times. There is not a bottom line difference such as medical claims.

All the other points are on target.


Anything done under warranty will probably be billed at a rate higher than you could find if you shopped it around. My analogy on how the warranty stuff works is akin to medical billing - they probably charge a higher rate and the warranty company pays like 60 cents on the dollar. This is total speculation, but given how much warranties cost I find it hard to believe they would make a profit covering multiple 5k repairs. It makes the warranties seem cheap to us, but something is clearly going on behind the scenes. Also, keep in mind that replacing a 300 dollar part on this car can cost 3k+ because of an engine pull. Some indies can work with you on the price if they know the tricks for not pulling the engine (which isn't always possible).

Your best bet if you want to save money on routine stuff is learn how to do it yourself or find someone who can. Join some local car clubs, as I guarantee a lot of locals work on their own Audis/Porsches/BMWs etc. and they could probably help out. A lot of the threads here talk about places to order parts from at a nice discount. Even if you can't do it yourself, a place like Redmond European will charge you 2 hours of labor for brakes+rotors and lets you bring your own, you just don't get the warranty like I mentioned (but on routine service, I'm not sure this matters). I'll keep you posted on any further info I find out about locally.

The most obvious way to reduce your cost of ownership is to drive it less. Keep a cheap low maintenance car around in addition to this one and use that for longer trips or the 1 mile grocery runs that put more strain on it. I thought about doing this myself, but the garage situation would be kind of annoying.

[speedtrapped]

Very good news.

Get the MTM TCU chip and ECU reflash with the money you saved. wink Mine is flat out awesome.

yES SIR, WE THINK A LIKE.........

[speedtrapped]

Only a helpless chump would pay 3k for a brake job. Yes, the parts are expensive, but if you can change a tire and google, man-up, head to the garage, DIY the brakes and save a four figure sum that would be better applied toward a case of Havana Club Añejo 7 Años or whatever.



That was my theory. Then I got hooked on the RS 6 crack pipe and barely touch cars two and three... :addict:

Skribe u have inspired me, at least to swap the rotors/brake pads....So I found an article on changing a4's set up, cant imagine its that diff. I have done a alot of work on my Ford Bronco, only problem is tools...I dont have hex head set(will be buying), can someone tell me what size for caliper and carrie bolt pls, 7mm? also when I hacked car up last week to clean rims off car, I didnt see any place for jack stand, Sorry guys, the architecture is new to me...I know where to place the jack, but where the stands? any suggestions on the rotor/brake pad swap?

[marklar182]

Here you go;
http://www.yellowdogracing.com/Audibrakes.htm

[speedtrapped]

that is perfect-TY...I know what I am doing saturday....and saving some coin

[4everRS]

This IS a fun thread:

75k service
Timing belt kits from ECS = 470
Watching Pat do most of the work = Priceless
Plugs, all filters, oil, vacuum hoses = 290

Other Items
Another oil change(BND) = 125
Aces = 70
Tranny service kit w/BND fluid= 250
Listening to Pat bitch about my ATF flowing into his armpit = Priceless
MTM TCU = 125
Drinking a beer while Pat was soldering it in = Priceless
New winter tires = 750 + 40 labor
Purge valve = 80
Red Stuff pads = 175 parts + 40 labor

edit: Dyno Day's including paying for Pats first run = 165 (figured I owed it to him...hehe)

[skribe]

This IS a fun thread:

75k service
Timing belt kits from ECS = 470
Watching Pat do most of the work = Priceless
Plugs, all filters, oil, vacuum hoses = 290

Other Items
Another oil change(BND) = 125
Aces = 70
Tranny service kit w/BND fluid= 250
Listening to Pat bitch about my ATF flowing into his armpit = Priceless
MTM TCU = 125
Drinking a beer while Pat was soldering it in = Priceless
New winter tires = 750 + 40 labor
Purge valve = 80
Red Stuff pads = 175 parts + 40 labor

edit: Dyno Day's including paying for Pats first run = 165 (figured I owed it to him...hehe)

LOL for priceless Pat.

Curious, what are they and where did you score winter tires for $750?

[4everRS]

Hankook Icebear W300. Really seem to be a great tire. I have been using them for a couple hundred miles even though it is still getting in the 60's here. (long story) They are XL 99V rated. AND the right size on stock wheels (255/40/18). No expirenece in snow yet but I plan on posting a review when that happens.
LOL for priceless Pat.

Curious, what are they and where did you score winter tires for $750?

[bendjeff]

and where did you get these tires for the price?

[4everRS]

They were from tires-easy.com. Very odd company to work with. I see that they aren't listed on their webiste anymore. They were 169 each and 77.82 shipped to my door. $753.82 total. Doing a quick search, I cannot find them anywhere at that price now. Looks like I got a deal.

I was also looking at Falken Eurowinter's. The closest size they come in is 245-40-18. This would be about .4" less diameter, and it wouln't really be noticeable. It may even be good to have a little narrower for the snow. Looks like a good tire as well. You can get those at about the same price.

Edit: change to tires-easy from easy-tire

[R1]

love this thread, please continue posting :)

[V8weight]

Skribe u have inspired me, at least to swap the rotors/brake pads....So I found an article on changing a4's set up, cant imagine its that diff. I have done a alot of work on my Ford Bronco, only problem is tools...I dont have hex head set(will be buying), can someone tell me what size for caliper and carrie bolt pls, 7mm? also when I hacked car up last week to clean rims off car, I didnt see any place for jack stand, Sorry guys, the architecture is new to me...I know where to place the jack, but where the stands? any suggestions on the rotor/brake pad swap?
Here, I took some pics of where I raise the car and place the stands: http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/20510-Jacking-lifting-points-and-jack-stands?highlight=jack

[speedtrapped]

TY Pat, Dave , etc......actually changed pads tonight, i did not swap rotor cause i need to buy hex bolt set, but pads were easy....No i am not driving it until i buy hex head set and swap rotors, damaged originals when levering pads off rotor.....but man, pads were easy, cant believe I was going to pay my guy $600 bucks for labor.......btw, while in there I noticed the tie rod boot was shot, on the passenger side, i assume original, any ideas as to life of these? i have 71k on clock......could this contribute to my alignment being off, pulls a little hard to passenger...TIA

[ben916]

TY Pat, Dave , etc......actually changed pads tonight, i did not swap rotor cause i need to buy hex bolt set, but pads were easy....No i am not driving it until i buy hex head set and swap rotors, damaged originals when levering pads off rotor.....but man, pads were easy, cant believe I was going to pay my guy $600 bucks for labor.......btw, while in there I noticed the tie rod boot was shot, on the passenger side, i assume original, any ideas as to life of these? i have 71k on clock......could this contribute to my alignment being off, pulls a little hard to passenger...TIA

Pull hard right? I remember it wasn't hard but it was something that you had to be mindful of... slightly irritating...

Hex Head? do you mean torx head? not sure what you mean...

I am waiting for my frozens to come back in tomorrow :)
I am ordering my .... opps... almost let the cat out of the bag...

[V8weight]

Pull hard right? I remember it wasn't hard but it was something that you had to be mindful of... slightly irritating...

Hex Head? do you mean torx head? not sure what you mean...

I am waiting for my frozens to come back in tomorrow :)
I am ordering my .... opps... almost let the cat out of the bag...
Phaeton ducts?!?!

[DHall1]

Who let the cats out all over the friggin place.

[speedtrapped]

Well not pull hard, but clearly cruising 65+ she drifts right. Not sure about tie rod, there is no slop in the steering, just was wondering life of them, the driver side looks new, passenger side, looks original, and as stated boot is shot. Sorry not hex head, allen head, 10mm to take off caliper.....Ben, tell me what u think of frozens bedding indstructions, they say street driven NOT to hard brake, but be gentle for 100-200 miles, w/ my stoptech pads, I thought bedding involved stop go hard braking initially?

[speedtrapped]

rotors installed, grippy stop techs and she stops perfectly.....thanks skribe, u saved me some coin on the install-I had fun doing it..slowly as I get used to my beast, and not intimidated about the engine, technology etc, I look forward to future projects. Like I have said, I have worked alot on my Ford Bronco over the last 3 years, this is whole diff animal. Monday full tune up and 75k service! That i wont be doing

[ben916]

Well not pull hard, but clearly cruising 65+ she drifts right. Not sure about tie rod, there is no slop in the steering, just was wondering life of them, the driver side looks new, passenger side, looks original, and as stated boot is shot. Sorry not hex head, allen head, 10mm to take off caliper.....Ben, tell me what u think of frozens bedding indstructions, they say street driven NOT to hard brake, but be gentle for 100-200 miles, w/ my stoptech pads, I thought bedding involved stop go hard braking initially?

That is what EBC indicates to do is 60mph to 10mph but don't stop, continue 4-5 more times and then take it for a 20 minute ride - not stopping...
Reiterating what the Great Dave suggested :)

[skribe]

rotors installed, grippy stop techs and she stops perfectly.....thanks skribe, u saved me some coin on the install-I had fun doing it..slowly as I get used to my beast, and not intimidated about the engine, technology etc, I look forward to future projects. Like I have said, I have worked alot on my Ford Bronco over the last 3 years, this is whole diff animal. Monday full tune up and 75k service! That i wont be doing



Rock on speed. Now go spend the money you saved! :lovl:

[LIRS6]

at 90k miles - performed by dealer:
Replace left side rear prop shaft seal - $728 (had smelled odd odor; was leaking oil dripping on the exhaust)
Replace front left side heat shield - $117
Replace front left wheel bearing - $399
Repair their repair of the front wheel bearing after it failed 24 hrs later, while I was driving with my family 60 miles from my house - $0 plus $206 towing (which I fully expect to be reimbursed for) ... plus the torture of my wife berating me yet again for continuing to pour money into the beast (it's hopeless - she will never understand)

[DHall1]

I hear you loud and clear. These last two weeks of endless data logs and reflash tweeks to the tune had her batty. The end result is pure silk and worth all the efforts. Now I have my hands on her E55 and she does not know it. Time to add another 60hp and fine tunes. hehe


... plus the torture of my wife berating me yet again for continuing to pour money into the beast (it's hopeless - she will never understand)

[JSRS6]

Lol, my wife didn't understand either...till I let her drive us to lunch and told her to punch it :-)

[speedtrapped]

I hear you loud and clear. These last two weeks of endless data logs and reflash tweeks to the tune had her batty. The end result is pure silk and worth all the efforts. Now I have my hands on her E55 and she does not know it. Time to add another 60hp and fine tunes. hehe
Jeez Dave I was gonna suprise my wife with earrings for Christmas...........

[DonS]

Just back from the dealer and:

Repair oil leaks from one front cam seal and cam adjuster gasket. Also found leaks at valve cover gaskets and cracked engine mount.

11 Engine Minor
8034 CPAU $3105.00
1 077-198-025-A Gasket set $59.50
3 026-103-085-D Seal $10.82 each, $32.46
1 077-198-217 Gasket set $11.50
1 018-409-399-B Seal $33.90
1 077-198-025-A Gasket set $59.50
1 4B3-199-267 Mounting $292.00
Top-off fluids were not covered by warranty, but paid for by dealer.
Included with the engine\trans pull is new fluids, aimed headlightsm reset all functions, washed engine and test drove.
Thats $488.86 for parts and $3105.00 (27 hours at $115) for labor totaling $3593.86

Outer CV boots torn
22 Driveshaft & Diff
8034 CPAU $414.00
2 441-498-203-A Boot $60.84 each $121.68
Replaced both outer CV boots.
Parts $121.68 Labor (3.6 hours at $115) $414.00 Total $560.68

ABS light on, failed brake switch
28 Brakes anti-loc
8034 CPAU
1 1K2-945-511-RDW Switch $8.75
Replaced brake light switch.
Parts $8.75 Labor (0.5 hours) $57.50 Total $66.25

Wheel alignment $160

Free exterior detail.

Total bill $4455.79

Warranty covered all but the CV boot work, some of the loaner car and the alignment. I had a $50 coupon - wahoo!!!

No oil on the floor. Car runs perfect after flogging it on dry, cold and hard Wisconsin roads. Ready for what's next....

[Majestic]

My window lock was always on.

Technical check $60.00
1 4BO-959-851-B-4PK switch $97.50
Window switch remove and reinstall $36.00

[ben916]

Well not pull hard, but clearly cruising 65+ she drifts right. Not sure about tie rod, there is no slop in the steering, just was wondering life of them, the driver side looks new, passenger side, looks original, and as stated boot is shot. Sorry not hex head, allen head, 10mm to take off caliper.....Ben, tell me what u think of frozens bedding indstructions, they say street driven NOT to hard brake, but be gentle for 100-200 miles, w/ my stoptech pads, I thought bedding involved stop go hard braking initially?

Wow, somehow I missed this one, SPEED...

Ok I don't know if you read MY experience with the bed in process on the Frozens/EBC Reds:
First off, I did the 60-10 to burn off the initial glaze off the pads.
It took about 600 miles before the squeal stopped and believe me it was loud! I called PAT with the windows open and he could hear it and asked "WTF was that?"
What REALLY helped were some high speed braking with moderate pedal.
Any low speed with light/low pedal or trailing brake was murder.
It was and still it better to jump on the brakes or give moderate pedal, except in the dumping rain we had about 2 weeks ago that everyone else is currently digging out from...

The rears were a different story - not a peep out of them.

[peiserg]

just dropped of mine for 55k service audi north scottsdale. $900 ish and they throw in free loaner.

[twinsteve]

just dropped of mine for 55k service audi north scottsdale. $900 ish and they throw in free loaner.

that's about what mine was...of course, that was on top of dealer getting Fidelity to pay $x,xxx for new TC and new EGT sensors, so they were feeling pretty flush....

[Born2be]

Picked mine up this morning after 55k service + tranny service = $1100.

[M5 Eater]

I'm dropping mine off next week at HBL Audi of Tysons for the 75K service at 68K, getting the following list done.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
75,000 miles
Change engine oil/ oil filter (078 115 561 K)
Reset service reminder display
Replace cabin pollen filter (4B0 819 439 C)
Replace spark plugs (101 000 063 AC)
Clean air filter housing and replace filter elements (077 133 843)
Clean intercooler hoses
Replace fuel filter (6N0 201 511 A)
Relplace: Timing belt (078 109 119 J)
Relay roller (077 109 244 C) x2
Tensioner lever (077 109 244 C)
Tensioner dampener (077 109 479 D)
Roller (077 109 244 E)
Water pump (077 121 004 P)
Gasket (078 121 043 A)
Thermostat (077 121 113 D)
O-ring (+N 901 368 02)
Ribbed belt (077 903 137 Q)
Clean radiator and condenser externally
Clean intercooler externally
Check on board diagnostics for fault memory
Check tires and spare
Lubricate door hinges
Clean and lubricate sunroof mechanism <o:p></o:p>
Also having the TC and the trans Ops checked. <o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
Total quote for the above items came to $5500, $2500 parts and $3000 Labor. I'm bringing my own BND for oil and filter / trans fluid and filter kit so knock off $600-$700 for a grand total of $4800-$4900. Plus a loaner to play around with while they have her. I’m hoping to secure a A5/S5 for an extended test drive ;) <o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
I have a Fidelity Platinum Warranty, what can I get Fidelity to pay for that’s on the list or are there any other extra items that aren’t on the list that can be replaced if faulty be Fidelity? I would like to get my money’s worth for what I spent on the warranty since it’s in the shop. <o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
M5 Eater <o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>

[peiserg]

just picked up car. 55k service.. $744 which excluded oil change which i did myself, and 5% off due to scheduling online vs. with a phone call. I think this is actually the first time i've brought it in for routine service, where there wasn't some OTHER issue noted....

[DHall1]

I completed my 35k major service with all Audi parts the cost was 700 dollars. I replaced everything on your list except the water pump. 700 bucks.

Yeeks


I'm dropping mine off next week at HBL Audi of Tysons for the 75K service at 68K, getting the following list done.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
75,000 miles
Change engine oil/ oil filter (078 115 561 K)
Reset service reminder display
Replace cabin pollen filter (4B0 819 439 C)
Replace spark plugs (101 000 063 AC)
Clean air filter housing and replace filter elements (077 133 843)
Clean intercooler hoses
Replace fuel filter (6N0 201 511 A)
Relplace: Timing belt (078 109 119 J)
Relay roller (077 109 244 C) x2
Tensioner lever (077 109 244 C)
Tensioner dampener (077 109 479 D)
Roller (077 109 244 E)
Water pump (077 121 004 P)
Gasket (078 121 043 A)
Thermostat (077 121 113 D)
O-ring (+N 901 368 02)
Ribbed belt (077 903 137 Q)
Clean radiator and condenser externally
Clean intercooler externally
Check on board diagnostics for fault memory
Check tires and spare
Lubricate door hinges
Clean and lubricate sunroof mechanism <O:p></O:p>
Also having the TC and the trans Ops checked. <O:p></O:p>
<O:p> </O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Total quote for the above items came to $5500, $2500 parts and $3000 Labor. I'm bringing my own BND for oil and filter / trans fluid and filter kit so knock off $600-$700 for a grand total of $4800-$4900. Plus a loaner to play around with while they have her. I’m hoping to secure a A5/S5 for an extended test drive ;) <O:p></O:p>
<O:p> </O:p>
I have a Fidelity Platinum Warranty, what can I get Fidelity to pay for that’s on the list or are there any other extra items that aren’t on the list that can be replaced if faulty be Fidelity? I would like to get my money’s worth for what I spent on the warranty since it’s in the shop. <O:p></O:p>
<O:p> </O:p>
M5 Eater <O:p></O:p>
<O:p> </O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
<O:p> </O:p>
<O:p></O:p>

[skribe]

Shell 93 Octane: 20 gallons @ 3.75 per = $75.00
10 oz Red Bull: $2.75
Cliff Bar (Builder's Blueberry Crumble) $2.89
Six Pack of Victoria: $8.50
Pack ZigZags: $2.49
Wall Street Journal: $2.50

So, according to my highly methodical analysis, the average RS 6 driver can drop $100 at the gas station. Twice a week. And all of these items are essentials.

[M5 Eater]

DHall1- Did you do the maint. yourself? That seems like a hell of a price for all that! I would try to complete it myself but I just don't have the facilities to complete a major service like that. I also got a quote from a local race shop that I've used before and they weren't far off of that price either.

I would love to pay just $700 or even $2k for that service but I'm at the mercy of no location to do the job.



I completed my 35k major service with all Audi parts the cost was 700 dollars. I replaced everything on your list except the water pump. 700 bucks.

Yeeks

[DHall1]

Yes I did along with V8weight Pat doing his right next to my car.

No brainer.

IMHO I would continue to search around and hold off on the service. At 68k you have plenty of time to search for options.

Hell, talk them down. You can buy the parts from genuinevw for 700 make them match it. Mark did it in Chicago with his local dealer. I the end paying around 2200 for the service.

Just get the trans checked out.


DHall1- Did you do the maint. yourself? That seems like a hell of a price for all that! I would try to complete it myself but I just don't have the facilities to complete a major service like that. I also got a quote from a local race shop that I've used before and they weren't far off of that price either.

I would love to pay just $700 or even $2k for that service but I'm at the mercy of no location to do the job.

[M5 Eater]

ok, I will search around some more. I'm not worried about the mileage per say but it has been a LONG time since it's 35K maint. I don't put a lot of miles on the car per year.

I don't know how much I can swindle the dealer down. I'm dealing with the only dealer who can actually do great work on my RS6 in my area and it's in Tysons Corner, VA, Fairfax county. This is one of the richest counties in the US so they don't like to match but I can bring in my own parts. The $4800 price isn't with the 15% discount that I'm getting.

[Stephencl]

M5 Eater....check your PM regarding HBL.

Stephen

[DHall1]

I would not worry about the time factor. It took over 6yrs to get 32k on mine and belt was changed this time last year for the first time.

I would run it right up to 75k because there is always the chance that the water pump or thermostat could develop a problem and presto Fidelity would pay the labor charge to open her up. Oh yeah, talk with Speedtrapped about his service guy. If its not too far I hear his prices are excellent. Hell, if you were on the left coast we could do it on a Sat at my house. Pat! send the special tools! Haha

The old pink eye two block method to open up the lock support. Hardly a drop on the floor.


http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a476/drh11/IMG_2793.jpg

http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a476/drh11/Thermostatdiy.jpg

ok, I will search around some more. I'm not worried about the mileage per say but it has been a LONG time since it's 35K maint. I don't put a lot of miles on the car per year.

I don't know how much I can swindle the dealer down. I'm dealing with the only dealer who can actually do great work on my RS6 in my area and it's in Tysons Corner, VA, Fairfax county. This is one of the richest counties in the US so they don't like to match but I can bring in my own parts. The $4800 price isn't with the 15% discount that I'm getting.

[DHall1]

For some reason, Pat had a hard time keeping his brakes cool and kept popping the hood everywhere we stopped. I donno, must have been some sort of secret hp mod.

http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a476/drh11/IMG_2819.jpg

[papadoc]

Few items today at Streetwerke in Palo Alto, now at 101.5K on the beast:

Replace worn control arms
Labor 3.5 hours @ 115 = $402.50
AWD alignment $125
control arms@$132 $528

Replace torn left outer CV boot
Labor 1.2 hours $138
CV boot kit $ 33

Comparing to some of the dealer charges posted on this thread, I'd say some folks are getting ripped off. Big surprise...

[speedtrapped]

M5 eater....Drive autoworks, Lyndhurst NJ.....I found them thru Phil @ Detailers domain(who owned an RS6, and if you have ever seen his posts on AZ, religious car guy, especially Audi) Dion did a 75k service, evrything labor and parts, $1800.00, incl taxes...heck he just installed my piggies and test pipes $400ish, swap old IC's for new wagners and shrouds $450.00, coils parts only, aligment $125.00, his main RS6 mechanic is Aldwin(ex RS6 dealer tech)....I will chat about it tomorrow if your coming

[DHall1]

There you have it. RS6 brothers helping RS6 brothers. I would not pay 5000+ for any maint service. Ever. I would walk first or ride my bike to the golf course.

[ttboost]

There you have it. RS6 brothers helping RS6 brothers. I would not pay 5000+ for any maint service. Ever. I would walk first or ride my bike to the golf course.

Yup. Working on your own turd has it's own rewards. Some in the form of little scabs on your knuckles, but rewards nontheless.

[M5 Eater]

Thanks for the support and advice fellas. After reviewing all the entries I will look further, I to think that 5k is outrageous for service.

[gmbh6]

good thread

[vitalian]

I'll add one.

Towing to dealership, new starter, installing new starter (which involves engine drop) and alignment: Just under $3K. (Only $425 of that was parts.) Thank goodness for $0 deductible Fidelity warranty.

[Chung]

Ok I finally got my car back. It was a bit ugly.
Power steering, alternator, timing belt, ac compressor, engine snub mount?, transmission flush, and other misc items.

6600. My largest car bill ever. The car feels amazing though (probably psychological from spending so much money but who cares).

[Aronis]

Um...
109,300 miles
Total cost of PARTS and SERVICE $24,402.49 including snow tires and rims (two sets of snow tires), four sets of summer tires (plus original set), two extended warrantees, KW V3, 75 k service, 90 k service,102k service, etc

Total cost of Gasoline $1,000,000.

[Majestic]

Change out all 4 tires supplied by me was $35 each tire.
Total $140

Change both front brakes, front brakes supplied by me.
Total $192
The service representative said its $192 either for front or rear.

Brake fluid changed $180

[Rhino315]

I agree with you 100%. That's why in the next couple of weeks, I'll be having my TB complete work with water pump, TC with steroids, some lights be brighter, hand polished downpipes + cats and some surgical fluids replaced, pump and flush to get ready for the summer and burned some VPower juice ( just a little, too high for now ), and of course, with the help of some expertise RS6 brothers hands, like you said...don't you ever pay $ 5K+ for a serious maintenance service. I can't walk like you, but I'll put my snowblower motor in my wheelchair with some racebike kevlar bike tires from Wal-Mart ( that I already have in my sport XPox wheels ). Thanks for those wise and motivated words. 10-4 for now...