C5 RS6 OEM's to be sent to Frozen Rotors

[ben916]

ok, Ok, OK!!!!

I will be the guinea pig on this one:

I am sending my OEM rotors that I purchased from Genuine to Frozen Rotors in MN tomorrow morning... After I check to make sure Genuine sent me both Left/Right.

Maybe they will just put my rotors on a shelf and laugh that I sent them $122 for the service...
then send them back 2 weeks later...

[V8weight]

You made a choice! Bravo! I would have done the same, had I realized that they are located 10 miles from my house. Hell, I can swing by there and watch your rotors go into the tank. I was so antsy to install my rotors when I got them, that I forwent having them frozen, but I'll get it done on the next set for sure seeing as I can just go over and drop them off.

[skribe]

Right on! This is how a forum works! We have our guinea pig!

FWIW two guys I work with swear by frozen rotors, one guy who tracks his BMW M Coupe frequently, the other guy has a hard core, heavily modded Mustang as a dedicated autocross car.

Ben FTW!

[JSRS6]

Pat, I was having the same feeling when I got mine in the mail. But like I told Ben, I will also be sending mine out next time, ahead of time.

[speedtrapped]

I know i am the newbie(dont even have the rs6 yet) but I beat ya to it. I placed my order with frozen rotors yesterday...thanks to your link.....GP's unite

[MaxRS6]

Way to go Ben! Good luck with the freeze... U just knew someone would post the below...00

<EMBED height=385 type=application/x-shockwave-flash width=640 src=http://www.youtube.com/v/SRH-Ywpz1_I?fs=1&hl=en_US allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></EMBED> (file://<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/SRH-Ywpz1_I?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/SRH-Ywpz1_I?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>)

[DHall1]

Does it count if Pat sets his rotors out on the -30 frozen cement for a week before he installs his next set?

Mr Freeze puns. Wayyyy too funny. Now we need a picture of Chuck in the Mr Freeze outfit.

Here piggy piggy....at least you dont have to pull your ECU 4 times. Ahhhh, but the end result will be the envy of the town. Just wait.

[skribe]

OMG, I just figured it out, Dave. Aces is releasing an RS 6 tune!!! :hihi:

[SAF]

FYI, I almost did this last year but am glad I didn't, because when my OEM replacement rotors arrived and were installed, they were warped. Audi sent them back and got another set.

Now if I had just sent them off to be chilled when they arrived without trying them first, I'd have pissed away a whole bunch of $$! Better check 'em good before you get them done!

[4everRS]

Maybe this will work. Pic of last winter. Doesn't include wind chill.

http://i864.photobucket.com/albums/ab210/crocodile64/Picture.jpg

Does it count if Pat sets his rotors out on the -30 frozen cement for a week before he installs his next set?

Mr Freeze puns. Wayyyy too funny. Now we need a picture of Chuck in the Mr Freeze outfit.

Here piggy piggy....at least you dont have to pull your ECU 4 times. Ahhhh, but the end result will be the envy of the town. Just wait.

[ben916]

FYI, I almost did this last year but am glad I didn't, because when my OEM replacement rotors arrived and were installed, they were warped. Audi sent them back and got another set.

Now if I had just sent them off to be chilled when they arrived without trying them first, I'd have pissed away a whole bunch of $$! Better check 'em good before you get them done!

Checking right now...

Part numbers, first.
non-warped, second
dyno sticker on hood with OZZY, third.

[hahnmgh63]

I'm going to run my set down to http://www.onecryo.com/ next week to have them done. Then I plan on installing them within two weeks after that but I think it would be a while until you can tell that they will last so there may not be any answers for sure here for a year or two, at least from me as I only drive my RS6 once or twice a week.

[ben916]

Checking right now...

Part numbers, first.
non-warped, second
dyno sticker on hood with OZZY, third.

Part numbers.... check
non-warped .....check
proper drill rotation per side ....check
dyno sticker .... too dark

[V8weight]

Part numbers.... check
non-warped .....check
proper drill rotation per side ....check
dyno sticker .... too dark
Now how did you check that they weren't warped? It takes more than just laying one of your kid's Dora the Explorer rulers across them. :)

[ben916]

Aside from ripping into the factory saran wrap, I set them on the most flat surface I could find, Dora the Exploder table... :)
The only thing that could think that could/would be warped would the relation between the hub and the rotor surface (the two different pieces)

It looks like they are balanced from the factory as on the outer edges (where you can see the fins between each rotor surface) there are minute grinding taken out of the outer surface.

[DHall1]

best way to check warp is on the car.

[ben916]

only way to check warp is on the car.
great.. :(

[DHall1]

Keep swinging Mickey. You keep shanking that ball 20 yards in the rough.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRPRVTQl6Sc&feature=fvst


OMG, I just figured it out, Dave. Aces is releasing an RS 6 tune!!! :hihi:

[V8weight]

Aside from ripping into the factory saran wrap, I set them on the most flat surface I could find, Dora the Exploder table... :)
The only thing that could think that could/would be warped would the relation between the hub and the rotor surface (the two different pieces)

It looks like they are balanced from the factory as on the outer edges (where you can see the fins between each rotor surface) there are minute grinding taken out of the outer surface.
There's really no way to tell if they are warped in advance short of either installing them, or chucking them up in a fixture and checking the run-out with a dial indicator. That said, I wouldn't worry about them being warped in advance. I would say that would be a result of very old improperly stored stock. Just like cams and cranks, if improperly stored, they can probably warp. I think GenuineVWAudi moves a lot of stock, I would assume these weren't sitting around too long.

[ben916]

There's really no way to tell if they are warped in advance short of either installing them, or chucking them up in a fixture and checking the run-out with a dial indicator. That said, I wouldn't worry about them being warped in advance. I would say that would be a result of very old improperly stored stock. Just like cams and cranks, if improperly stored, they can probably warp. I think GenuineVWAudi moves a lot of stock, I would assume these weren't sitting around too long.

Couldn't I take them to like a tire shop and have them put them on a balancer and run it?
Wouldn't that show if there is a warp between the hat/hub and the rotor surface?

I will call Frozen in the morning and ask if they check for that, otherwise it is a waste of time if they freeze em and the rotors are warped...

[JRS-RS6]

Couldn't I take them to like a tire shop and have them put them on a balancer and run it?
Wouldn't that show if there is a warp between the hat/hub and the rotor surface?

I will call Frozen in the morning and ask if they check for that, otherwise it is a waste of time if they freeze em and the rotors are warped...

Take them somewhere that they can turn them down like an auto parts machine shop.

[DHall1]

That is hit or miss and could screw up a new set of rotors. Our rotors are not really designed to be machined. The center plate is very thin and difficult to chuck up in a brake lathe. Our calipers are so long that any runout makes the brake pedal pulse.

Best bet is to run the new rotors for 10 miles to make sure there is no runout. Does cryo take rotors with 10 miles on them?

or just send the new rotors and cross fingers.


Take them somewhere that they can turn them down like an auto parts machine shop.

[SAF]

My warped set came from Audi, so their stock is a crap shoot. I would run them on the car to check them before sending them off. Shouldn't be a problem freezing them with a little testing.

[ben916]

My warped set came from Audi, so their stock is a crap shoot. I would run them on the car to check them before sending them off. Shouldn't be a problem freezing them with a little testing.

That would require installing the new pads also...
I don't want to use the pinned OEM pads on new totors - kind of defeats the purpose...

[DHall1]

What a pisser.

I say just send the new rotors. 2% chance they are warped.

[MaxRS6]

My .02 worth is let it go and hope for the best. I've not heard of a lot of warped rotors coming from Genuine.

edit: Too funny as Dhall posted the same thing as I was posting my less than .03 worth..

[JRS-RS6]

That is hit or miss and could screw up a new set of rotors. Our rotors are not really designed to be machined. The center plate is very thin and difficult to chuck up in a brake lathe. Our calipers are so long that any runout makes the brake pedal pulse.

Best bet is to run the new rotors for 10 miles to make sure there is no runout. Does cryo take rotors with 10 miles on them?

or just send the new rotors and cross fingers.

Agreed -- perhaps I should have been clearer. Have them use a dial run out indicator instead of a cutting bit -- it is SOP to test run out before cutting anyway (or at least it was in the old days 25 years ago when I worked in one of these places).

[DHall1]

Yes,

But if they cant properly chuck up the rotor then the dial indicator results are garbage.

I have had 2 sets of rotors setup on a brake lathe. I watched and the tech really tried to get the rotors flush but in the end both sets turned out with a small bit of runout and brake pulse. I just think it cant be done even to use as a benchmark on if the rotors are true.

In the end, I have decided to never use the lathe again and just grind off the remote edge of the rotors when the time comes to replace pads again. I figure two sets of brake pads and the rotors will be junk anyways.


Agreed -- perhaps I should have been clearer. Have them use a dial run out indicator instead of a cutting bit -- it is SOP to test run out before cutting anyway (or at least it was in the old days 25 years ago when I worked in one of these places).

[JRS-RS6]

Dave how long are you in OR for? I am flying to Portland tonight.

[DHall1]

All week.

May be in Portland on Thur or Friday.

[ben916]

So I dropped them off at OPPSS er, I mean U.P.S. tonight and they SHOULD be in MN via ground on Wednesday 29th just in time for Friday Oct 1st run of 60 hours of freezing...
This better FOOKIN' work...

Stat = the weight of the box was 48lbs

[DHall1]

Here piggy piggy

[MaxRS6]

Mo like a Canary...00

<EMBED height=385 type=application/x-shockwave-flash width=480 src=http://www.youtube.com/v/dQEIYjS1ePY?fs=1&hl=en_US allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always"></EMBED> (file://<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/dQEIYjS1ePY?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/dQEIYjS1ePY?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>)

[Amulet-S6]

These are the photo's of the custom rotors a group of us had made for track use.

#1 Performance suggestion - Phaeton ducts
#2 Better Pads - plenty to choose from
#3 Rotors with better internal ventilation

Jim

[CornersWell]

FYI, I had my rotors treated at 300Below (www.300below.com). It's really too early to tell if I'm getting any better wear, though.

I also sent my Range Rover rotors, and will be sending the rotors for our race cars. Again, not enough milage on them to tell if the wear is decreased.

CW

[ben916]

These are the photo's of the custom rotors a group of us had made for track use.

#1 Performance suggestion - Phaeton ducts
#2 Better Pads - plenty to choose from
#3 Rotors with better internal ventilation

Jim

Username is JP4 - right?

[V8weight]

Those look to be the same rotors currently being sold at JHMotorsport.

[ben916]

Post #83
http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/10990-My-next-brake-discs-and-pads-What-is-your-choice/page5?highlight=JP4

or

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/11459-RS6-Brake-Cooling-Modifications-Details?p=99631&viewfull=1#post99631

[DHall1]

Max,

Get back on the meds!


Mo like a Canary...00

<EMBED src=http://www.youtube.com/v/dQEIYjS1ePY?fs=1&hl=en_US width=480 height=385 type=application/x-shockwave-flash allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></EMBED> (file://<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/dQEIYjS1ePY?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/dQEIYjS1ePY?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>)

[Aronis]

What does the freezing process do?

[JSRS6]

Realigns the molecular structure of the metal to be uniform, akin to the same way a diamond is harder because the pressure of the earth realigns the molecules of coal.

[CornersWell]

According to 300 Below, it results in doubled wear life.

CW

[speedtrapped]

My frozen rotors have shipped, getting them oct 1!!! although I def am concerned after reading this thread regarding warped OEM stock. But I guess I will find out hard way.

[JSRS6]

I don't think you will have any problems. I just got mine recently from genuine, and they were fine.

[speedtrapped]

Thanks, mating these with some stop techs-I guess bedding the pads rotors is still same right?

[ben916]

Arrived today at Frozen
Scheduled to be in the -300 for 60 hours starting Friday...

[V8weight]

Arrived today at Frozen
Scheduled to be in the -300 for 60 hours starting Friday...
I hadn't realized it was such a long process. I just assumed that they zapped them and threw them back in the mail. Hmm.

[DHall1]

atoms dont move very fast when its -300 degrees.

[ben916]

I hadn't realized it was such a long process. I just assumed that they zapped them and threw them back in the mail. Hmm.
IIRC, there is cycling of temps...

[CornersWell]

I recall that 300below dips them for 24 hours.

CW

[ben916]

And they have arrived...
Anyone want a photo? I think they should look the same...

Now the bedding in process:
do I go with what EBC states?
do I go with what Frozen states?

[speedtrapped]

Well I used EBC's break in, I actually have stop techs on, drover alot last 2 days, and brakes are night and day. Strong stop, power immediate, and no squeals squeaks etc....i have about 130 miles on the new set up

[DHall1]

Do as Frozen says for Frozen rotors.

Do as EBC says for standard rotors.

[DHall1]

You get to add a mod to your signature.

Where are pics monkey wrench boy?


And they have arrived...
Anyone want a photo? I think they should look the same...

Now the bedding in process:
do I go with what EBC states?
do I go with what Frozen states?

[SteveKen]

Do as Frozen says for Frozen rotors.

What do they say?

I've got a friend of a friend that can cryo treat for me and they will not have any instructions.

I will be getting the EBC reds I suppose since they come highly recommended here.

[MaxRS6]

I decided to have Carbotech XP10 pads put on the front, EBC Red pads with new rotors on the back, & had the brake fluid changed....Stops the hog like a mfker....

Hmmmm...Ozzy may make an appearance soon

[V8weight]

I decided to have Carbotech XP10 pads put on the front, EBC Red pads with new rotors on the back, & had the brake fluid changed....Stops the hog like a mfker....

Hmmmm...Ozzy may make an appearance soon
Interesting, I was planning on switching to the Carbotech's myself on the next pad change. I like the Redstuff's, but they are literally melting to my rotors. Keep us posted for sure.

[DHall1]

Stop riding the brakes and you will save the rotors.

Doh....run Dave run.


Interesting, I was planning on switching to the Carbotech's myself on the next pad change. I like the Redstuff's, but they are literally melting to my rotors. Keep us posted for sure.

[4everRS]

It is odd how your rotors are looking. Blueish spots all over. I have yet to see this happen to mine. Guess I need to stomp on the brakes more. Anyone else notice blue spots all over their rotors and are using the Redstuff?
Interesting, I was planning on switching to the Carbotech's myself on the next pad change. I like the Redstuff's, but they are literally melting to my rotors. Keep us posted for sure.

[JSRS6]

I haven't noticed any abnormal wear or discoloration. I'll update if I see anything.

[V8weight]

It is odd how your rotors are looking. Blueish spots all over. I have yet to see this happen to mine. Guess I need to stomp on the brakes more. Anyone else notice blue spots all over their rotors and are using the Redstuff?
You're telling me, it's quite a rash.
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww228/Pellis833/002-20.jpg
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww228/Pellis833/001-16.jpg

[V8weight]

Stop riding the brakes and you will save the rotors.

Doh....run Dave run.
If you can't melt your brake pads, you've got the wrong tune. ;)

[JSRS6]

Is that along the same lines as
"If you can't melt your tires, you've got the wrong tune."?
Or
"If you can't slip your tc, you've got the wrong tune."?

Doh!

[V8weight]

Is that along the same lines as
"If you can't melt your tires, you've got the wrong tune."?
Or
"If you can't slip your tc, you've got the wrong tune."?

Doh!
Hahaha, something like that. I do need to be easier on my brakes. The problem is every time I try to open it up, some slug always gets in my way. So my drives are a continuous cycle of tromping on the gas, then panic on the brakes.

[JSRS6]

I'm with ya there. Or the horse you get on to break ahead of the pack(read:get out of the way! Lol) doesn't give his all and you have to ease off in a hurry. Grrrrr!

[DHall1]

Damn those wheels are sweet.

Something is goin on with the rotors. No way do mine look like that.

What are you using to clean the wheels?

I would try another set of pads. Take a 3in high speed wheel with med cut scotch pad and clean up the rotor face then try another set of pads.


You're telling me, it's quite a rash.
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww228/Pellis833/002-20.jpg
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww228/Pellis833/001-16.jpg

[V8weight]

This almost has to be a bum set of pads. I'm positive this was not an issue with my last set of EBC's. I don't use any chemicals on the wheels, just soap and water.

[speedtrapped]

Dave, Have u tried Sonax wheel cleaner? Fantastic product. Made In Deustchland....Spray, green, turns purple(reacting to brake dust), no acids, if really dirty, a little brush and squeaky clean-I like to use Prima wheel polish, they keep alot of dust off, then sonax 1 a week, soak for 5 minutes and spray off, gleaming

[DHall1]

Me? Clean anything?

Never.





http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a476/drh11/RS6com%20resize/front1.jpghttp://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a476/drh11/RS6com%20resize/rear2.jpg
Dave, Have u tried Sonax wheel cleaner? Fantastic product. Made In Deustchland....Spray, green, turns purple(reacting to brake dust), no acids, if really dirty, a little brush and squeaky clean-I like to use Prima wheel polish, they keep alot of dust off, then sonax 1 a week, soak for 5 minutes and spray off, gleaming

[DHall1]

Thats what the lady of the house is for

http://i1039.photobucket.com/albums/a476/drh11/chemicalguyssale-1.jpg

[speedtrapped]

very nice Dave....btw, my calipers need a beauty treatment....actually tried sonax, but top and back have baked on brake dust grime, have u any advice, harfd scrubbing elbo grease? good ole fashion chemical, that wont etch the paint?....btw, I will be scrubbing my wheel wells now

[DHall1]

Take it in steps. Your car was a SoCal car its whole life....even at 70k it should clean up nicely. My wifes E55 was also a SoCal car and hers with 55k is just as clean as mine with 30.

Check around with Phil and some web forums. My calipers never had the baked on metal dust because I started cleaning it at 22k. You might try clay bar on the painted surfaces of the caliper. That is after you removed as much as poss by chemical and scrubbing.

You think I'm bad...Pat takes his wheels off just to wash his car.

[speedtrapped]

she is in excellent shape-undercarriage, paint good clean socal living, she will be kept in garage in my neck woods, NE air, grimy, salty winters...Ty in caliper advice-I will take it in steps, can ur lady friend land me a hand?

[JSRS6]

Take it in steps. Your car was a SoCal car its whole life....even at 70k it should clean up nicely. My wifes E55 was also a SoCal car and hers with 55k is just as clean as mine with 30.

Check around with Phil and some web forums. My calipers never had the baked on metal dust because I started cleaning it at 22k. You might try clay bar on the painted surfaces of the caliper. That is after you removed as much as poss by chemical and scrubbing.

You think I'm bad...Pat takes his wheels off just to wash his car.

Thats too funny! I do the same thing, only after the wash to clean the rims :-)

[V8weight]

Thats too funny! I do the same thing, only after the wash to clean the rims :-)
I hate how the rotors rust when I wash the car, then as the brakes scrub the rust off, the wheels are instantly dirty all over again. So, every time I wash the car, I remove the wheels and put trash bags over the rotors, then I can clean the insides of the wheels as well. Makes sense to me.:vhmmm:

[CornersWell]

I like clean cars and wheels, too, but you guys are re-defining the term OCD.

CW

[snoopra]

Yeah, I hate the rusted rotor thing. I usually wash the wheels, take her for a drive to blow off excess water, then clean them again. Wash the car and you're done, easy and simple, right? It's a lot easier for me than to remove the wheels and blow dry the rotors (which I've done many times:)). I do polish the rotor caps (silver part) and calipers:)

[JSRS6]

I like clean cars and wheels, too, but you guys are re-defining the term OCD.

CW

Ha! My wife says I have OCD. I tell her it's only OCD if you HAVE to do it, and I don't have to. I just feel bad when she isn't clean...anybody on here a psychiatrist? Lol

[skribe]

We are all OCD. I learned a long time ago to channel my obsessive tendencies into things at least remotely "constructive"... it could be worse :)

Wait, wasn't this thread about cryo-treated rotors? How'd that work out, anyway?

[ben916]

...Wait, wasn't this thread about cryo-treated rotors? How'd that work out, anyway?

See the OZZY thread ;)

[ben916]

OK, this is a straight forward maintenance item(s), given an available location AND the proper tools.

I remember that Pat stated that the car will twist unnaturally while jacking it up - yes it does!!!
Also having the key handy to turn the ignition on ONE click, so the steering wheel can be turned.

http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx318/ben916_rs6/IMAG0208.jpg


http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx318/ben916_rs6/IMAG0209.jpg

Rotors @ 32.69"
The REAL problem was the PAD... If I had only listened to DAVE and just slapped the RED's in...

http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx318/ben916_rs6/IMAG0210.jpg

Out with the old, in with the Frozen...

I was at a dilemma with the bedding as there were two schools of thought:
1. EBC - 60mph to 10mph for 4-5 times and then a 20 minute drive to cool things down - do not stop.
2. Frozen (street use) - 150 to 200 miles of easy braking.
3. Frozen (L/I or H/P) - 70mph to 20mph 4 times.

I did #3 and then drove home for 45 minutes.

Slight squeal on the initial brake pedal (light) but if slightly more pedal, no squeal.

Will follow up in another week or so...

EDIT: Yes, there is a screw in the left front

[JSRS6]

At least it's easily patched on that part of the tire.

[DHall1]

I kept telling ya for 6 months. From day one.

What is min on the rotors? 32.50? Keep them around.


Rotors @ 32.69"
The REAL problem was the PAD... If I had only listened to DAVE and just slapped the RED's in...

[V8weight]

I kept telling ya for 6 months. From day one.

What is min on the rotors? 32.50? Keep them around.


Rotors @ 32.69"
The REAL problem was the PAD... If I had only listened to DAVE and just slapped the RED's in...


32.4mm is the min. spec.

[ben916]

Let the squealling begin!!!

F@#$!!

[4everRS]

What is the thickness when new?

[JSRS6]

34mm blah blah...

[V8weight]

34mm blah blah...
LOL, busted by the 8 character limit.

[4everRS]

Ha, forgot about that. I was wondering, "geez Josh, settle down, it was a simple question." hehe
LOL, busted by the 8 character limit.
34mm blah blah...

[speedtrapped]

I not a fan (initially) of the red stuff pads, installed on new rotors on the S8, squealed like he'll, but after 400 miles almost gone. On the RS6 I used stop techs and luv em, no squeal and stops strong

[JSRS6]

Ha, forgot about that. I was wondering, "geez Josh, settle down, it was a simple question." hehe

In hindsight, I could have typed out millimeters, but oh well.

Kyle, I don't blow up like that...hint hint.

[SAF]

I switched to Reds with the new rotors last year and they've never made a peep.

[ben916]

Squealing loud!

Only concerned about the inner edge of the rotor that looks Brass/bronze...

LEFT
http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx318/ben916_rs6/IMAG0220.jpg

RIGHT
http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx318/ben916_rs6/IMAG0219.jpg

[DHall1]

That is the part of the rotor the brake pads dont touch.

Keep driving

[frozenrotors]

Hi Ben,

Your rotors look fine. I think they could use some more miles o them though. I'd say that you could take your car out and REALLY use the brakes rather hard. You haven't even gotten the pads bedded to the rotors yet. I can tell by the machining marks on the rotor faces. You can use the brakes really hard, as long as you give them ample time to cool off completely after hard use. Due this 5-6 times until you can see the machining marks on the rotor disappear slightly. That will indicate that the pad material is properly transferring over to the rotors. Just DON'T rest your foot on the brake pedal for any extended period of time after HARD braking.

Hope this helps,
Keith
http://km@frozenrotors.com (http://km@frozenrotors.com/)

[ben916]

Hi Ben,

Your rotors look fine. I think they could use some more miles o them though. I'd say that you could take your car out and REALLY use the brakes rather hard. You haven't even gotten the pads bedded to the rotors yet. I can tell by the machining marks on the rotor faces. You can use the brakes really hard, as long as you give them ample time to cool off completely after hard use. Due this 5-6 times until you can see the machining marks on the rotor disappear slightly. That will indicate that the pad material is properly transferring over to the rotors. Just DON'T rest your foot on the brake pedal for any extended period of time after HARD braking.

Hope this helps,
Keith
http://km@frozenrotors.com (http://km@frozenrotors.com/)

Thanks Keith,

I tried one of Pat's tricks and just get into the triple digits (not as high as Pat did) and then slow down moderately to 60, that seemed to help.
It seems to bite well if, during the rotor yelling, I give it a moderate pedal press at the end of my braking.
If I just brake lightly, it squeals, if I give moderate, it seems to not yell as bad.

Patience grasshopper...

[ben916]

dyno sticker .... too dark .
victory motorcars (http://www.yellowbot.com/victory-motorcars-houston-tx-1.html)

Thanks for the valuable input! - reported...

Update:
300+ miles
Moderate to hard braking seemed to do the trick as the squeaking is nearly gone.
Several 100+ mph to 50/60mph moderate to firm application of braking, also seemed to work.
Considerably less brake dust with the EBC Reds.

Next are the rears and fill'er up with some RF600?

[JSRS6]

I was told by my shop that unless I was gonna be tracking the car, ate super blue would be more than enough.

[ben916]

I was told by my shop that unless I was gonna be tracking the car, ate super blue would be more than enough.

Is that the brake fluid you are referencing?

[JSRS6]

That is correct sir. Works very well, even after repeated quick stops during datalogging. No fade.