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View Full Version : I don't know why people in HOT climates own cars like the RS6



Bigglezworth
August 26th, 2010, 06:56
It was 105-110 today in the Okanagan valley and the beast was nothing short of a PIG! A Passat would have run quicker than the Audi could muster. Certain to be heat soak and all the other woes heat put on the ride. Made me wonder why anyone living in a hot climate would want to own a turbo charged car? I'm use to maximum temperatures of 80 - perhaps 85, and an average temperature during late spring through early fall of 70-75 during the day and 45-50 at night. Car runs nice in those temps, but add that extra 30 degrees and it falls apart. Anyway, glad I don't have to experience it frequently as it is highly probable I wouldn't own an RS6.

Tim

Elevens
August 26th, 2010, 16:20
I don't know, I'm down hear in South Florida and its been 95+ for about the last month or so. I have no issues. Still runs like a bat out of hell. Obviously not as fast as it would run on a 70 deg day, but that's to be expected on any Turbocharged or Normally Aspirated car. If a Passat can run past you, then I would say you have a problem......

ben916
August 26th, 2010, 16:44
I am feeling the effects of heat soak and have been seriously thinking of a homegrown aquamist setup to cool things down a bit.
Oh and looking at HEADSHOT's Hood vents... and Yokust's spare hood...

Bigglezworth
August 26th, 2010, 17:11
I don't know, I'm down hear in South Florida and its been 95+ for about the last month or so. I have no issues. Still runs like a bat out of hell. Obviously not as fast as it would run on a 70 deg day, but that's to be expected on any Turbocharged or Normally Aspirated car. If a Passat can run past you, then I would say you have a problem......

One would think, but no CEL, and the only errors on the VAG-Com are the low battery for the Telematics, and some for the Central Lock system. Nothing drivetrain related.... Car also has fresh silicone hoses and new N75 valve. Will have to run a couple of measuring blocks to see what they are saying.

hahnmgh63
August 26th, 2010, 18:24
It was 90' here the last two days on the west side but with Wagner intercoolers and Aces IV in the fuel only a slight noticeable change. Still managed to pass many cars expeditiously on the way home last night.

DHall1
August 26th, 2010, 20:00
110 here in the shade every day of the summer.

My car runs like a bat out of hell.

Idjuits get out of way when they see the beast snorting, huffing and puffin.

skribe
August 27th, 2010, 00:30
That doesn't sound right. My car had plenty of power on the hottest days this summer... I totally embarrassed a kid in an evo X on a 105 degree day..

You probably just have a hole in one of your pistons or a blown head gasket or something. I wouldn't worry about it.

DHall1
August 27th, 2010, 00:59
Ben just called me about this issue. I can only say the RS600 duct helps as does Aces IV.

Past that....I know nothing.

vangelis
August 27th, 2010, 20:54
This does not sound right, of course. I'm living in one of the most high temp climate (Dubai). It reach over 50c here and I've seens this many times on dashboard in my RS6. However, the car still performe very well even at such crazy temp. I don't drive my car that much during this temp and if i did, i don't push it too much. But when I did few times, the car perform very well aganist other sport non-turbo cars. But i still believe it will perform better in lower temps but its not a big difference.

Bigglezworth
August 28th, 2010, 01:15
Clearly have a problem. Car is fantastically push you into the back of the seat quick on a cold start-up. 1 minute into things though it falls off and not much longer and it's flat. Car is registering little boost. Throws no CEL, but did again post an SAIS error. I changed out the OEM hoses last week to silicone when it was posting this error along with a new N75 valve, but to no avail. Error is still surfacing and running quite lethargic.

You can also see from the #115 measuring block that the car isn't boosting worth a crap with a pathetic 10 second run to get through the RPM range in first gear.... (950-1050 mbar specified with a 960-1250 actual) >sigh<

Address 01: Engine Labels: 077-907-558-BCY.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 4D1 907 558 D
Component and/or Version: 4.2l V8/5VT G 0003
Software Coding: 0006752
Work Shop Code: WSC 00000 785 00200
VCID: 2F63C6DEC775

2 Faults Found:
17831 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 1: Insufficient Flow
P1423 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
17819 - Secondary Air Injection System; Bank 2: Insufficient Flow
P1411 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
Readiness: 0000 1001


Any observations and/or suggestions would be welcome prior to me needing to venture to one of the local stealerships to see if they can provide any insight.

Thanks
Tim

 

hahnmgh63
August 28th, 2010, 01:28
Without the Vagcom readings my first thoughts would have been Intercoolers, and they may still be leaking, but I think you have problems elseware due to the Air Injection faults. I'm thinking possible N249 recirculation vavle or solenoid or just a bad hose leak under the intake manifold (recent post on this). You will probably need to at least pull your airfilter housing and check all of the visible hoses including the small vacuum lines at the back of the motor on either side going to the two secondary air combination valves. The small cloth covered vacuum lines have a reputation for leaking. The book states that if the recirculation valve fails, the intake manifold pressure keeps the recirculation valves open which could cause a loss of boost. Do you have the RS6 C5 study guide? It has some pretty good diagrams. It is 6.5Mbs in size and I think it is a sticky here on the Forum or E-mail me and I'll send you a copy.

Bigglezworth
August 28th, 2010, 01:36
You will probably need to at least pull your airfilter housing and check all of the visible hoses including the small vacuum lines at the back of the motor on either side going to the two secondary air combination valves. The small cloth covered vacuum lines have a reputation for leaking.Just changed all the small 1/4" lines to silicone last week yes. Car was throwing the SAIS code and I well knew I had a broken hose at the inlet to the passenger valve. Will be performing a timing belt/waterpump/rollers repair next week so will have front of car off. Will check IC piping and housings for possible leaks at that time. Again like I state, car runs like a banshee for the first bit, then falls off. N75 valve was the standard knee jerk reaction to failing boost levels and with that changed along with all the small hoses, I'm on to trying to diagnose things at the next level.

Thx
Tim

DHall1
August 28th, 2010, 06:16
Not to say checking all those hoses are not worth the time.

But

(950-1050 mbar specified with a 960-1250 actual)

What are you missing here?

...

Your ecu is saying. NO BOOST.

Checking all the boost hoses in the world will not make Mr ECU let you have some boost.


Just changed all the small 1/4" lines to silicone last week yes. Car was throwing the SAIS code and I well knew I had a broken hose at the inlet to the passenger valve. Will be performing a timing belt/waterpump/rollers repair next week so will have front of car off. Will check IC piping and housings for possible leaks at that time. Again like I state, car runs like a banshee for the first bit, then falls off. N75 valve was the standard knee jerk reaction to failing boost levels and with that changed along with all the small hoses, I'm on to trying to diagnose things at the next level.

Thx
Tim

Bigglezworth
August 28th, 2010, 08:44
Not to say checking all those hoses are not worth the time.

But

(950-1050 mbar specified with a 960-1250 actual)

What are you missing here?

...

Your ecu is saying. NO BOOST.

Checking all the boost hoses in the world will not make Mr ECU let you have some boost.
I know that. You've mistaken my comment. It was suggested that the SAIS error might benefit from checking the vacuum lines to which I was merely reconfirming that I first stated I changed out vacuum hoses a week ago along with the N75 boost valve....

The question being posed was cited as car not boosting. Car boosts fine for first bit upon cool start-up, but then falls off. If you happen to have insight on why that might be occuring, it would be welcomed. Statements like the one you provided aren't helpful to the RS6 community who rely heavily on the knowledge base of other owners.

Tim

snoopra
August 28th, 2010, 14:15
HOT all year 'round, no noticable power changes here.

Mr Balsen
August 28th, 2010, 20:08
I can tell you that yes outside temperature make a big difference on RS6. There is a world of difference between power with O degree Celsius outside in the winter and 35 degrees celsius outside. And I do have the hood vents, the RS6 ducts and so on....

Frederic

PS: Actually the hood vents as everybody knows them are not that efficient. I did an improvement which change everything....

DHall1
August 28th, 2010, 22:37
Honestly,

I thought you may have missed this evidence.

(950-1050 mbar specified with a 960-1250 actual)

Enjoy your slow car.

I will leave your thread alone for the rest of the experts.


I know that. You've mistaken my comment. It was suggested that the SAIS error might benefit from checking the vacuum lines to which I was merely reconfirming that I first stated I changed out vacuum hoses a week ago along with the N75 boost valve....

The question being posed was cited as car not boosting. Car boosts fine for first bit upon cool start-up, but then falls off. If you happen to have insight on why that might be occuring, it would be welcomed. Statements like the one you provided aren't helpful to the RS6 community who rely heavily on the knowledge base of other owners.

Tim

Bigglezworth
August 28th, 2010, 23:07
Honestly,

I thought you may have missed this evidence.

(950-1050 mbar specified with a 960-1250 actual)

Enjoy your slow car.

I will leave your thread alone for the rest of the experts.
Why do you persist in cutting down any thread I opt to post or query things on? I mean really. You make this forum so unenjoyable for some to be a part of.

I've driven turbo charged cars for decades and until the Audi diagonosis for things have been relatively straight forward. I know we are all well aware of the advanced engine management system on this specific motor so merely striving to see if anyone has some insight on why the ECU specifically opts to provide no boost after a couple of minutes of warm up when it boosts fine immediately upon start-up. Irrespective of whether anyone desires to provide support to a fellow RS6 owner or not I will get to the bottom of things. In the mean time I can always opt to drive the other RS6 which is certainly plenty fast and then some.

snoopra
August 28th, 2010, 23:21
Frederic

PS: Actually the hood vents as everybody knows them are not that efficient. I did an improvement which change everything....
Please do tell what this "improvement" was to change everything

ben916
August 29th, 2010, 00:02
Actually the hood vents as everybody knows them are not that efficient. I did an improvement which change everything....

Well then DO tell the difference between the MTM (which you have a vested interest in) and the Headshot version?
Then do tell the "improvement" or do we have to pay for this information?

Without some impartial numbers and information, your posting above is pure bull...

DHall1
August 29th, 2010, 00:26
Guys,

Take a look at the pictures he just posted


Well then DO tell the difference between the MTM (which you have a vested interest in) and the Headshot version?
Then do tell the "improvement" or do we have to pay for this information?

Without some impartial numbers and information, your posting above is pure bull...

Aronis
August 29th, 2010, 01:27
I am sorry I did not read this post earlier.

I had the very same problem.

Its the vacuum tubing which supplies vacuum to the solenoid which controls the flow through the Air Injection System. Mine first went out on one bank and I found one of the tubes was torn off of the valve. I have a post about it.

I replaced all the tubing with silicone tubing I bought from ECS (if I recall that is the name).

there is a main solenoid which opens for allow suction to the two banks, then there is a valve that opens to let air be injected (by the secondary air injection system pump) into the exhaust manifold. This helps improve the emissions when the car is still cold.

This system is common to virtually all modern cars.

Find my post, there are pictures.

Mike

Aronis
August 29th, 2010, 01:28
http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/20882-Secondayr-Air-Injection-System!-Let-s-all-learn-WTF-it-does!-And-HOW!-!-!?highlight=what+is+the+secondary