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V8weight
August 24th, 2010, 03:01
I get a lot of pm's about servicing the gearbox on our cars, so rather than continuing to outline the fill procedure in private, I figured I'd post it up for all to see. First of all you need a Vag-com to monitor the fluid temp while you fill the trans. If you don't have one, don't try to fill the transmission :) You will also need a hand fluid pump which can be purchased at any auto parts store:
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww228/Pellis833/007-18.jpg

And a 17mm allen socket, and a T27 torx bit:
http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww228/Pellis833/006-16.jpg

Step one is to raise the car (a lift is preferred, but jack stands are just fine). The car must be completely level (I usually just measure the distance from the ground to top of the wheel well and make sure they are within 1/4"). Now you can remove the drain plug (T27 torx) and drain the fluid. It's best to let it drain overnight, as the fluid has to be refilled starting with the car completely cold, or at the very least the fluid temp has to be below 30*c.

The next step after the fluid has drained is to remove the pan, and clean the magnets that reside inside. Brake cleaner will work, or any other solvent (I like lacquer thinner). Now you can replace the strainer (audi part# 01L-325-429-B ) and reinstall the pan along with a new gasket (Audi part# 01L-321-371). Next reinstall the drain plug and torque to 12Nm. Now you can remove the fill plug (17mm Allen socket).

Now, with your hand pump, fill the transmission until fluid starts to run out of the fill plug. Next get in the car and use the Vag-com to enter the transmission module, then select "measuring blocks" and enter block 004. http://i722.photobucket.com/albums/ww228/Pellis833/004-16.jpg
Now place the computer where you can see it from both in and under the car, and start the car. Turn on the AC. You now have to get back under the car and immediately continue to pump fluid until it again starts to overflow from the fill hole.

Now get back in the car, and with the emergency brake set, and your foot on the brakes, shift to reverse, then drive, holding each gear for 15 seconds. Now get under the car and add more fluid until it overflows from the fill hole.

Get back in the car and do one more cycle of reverse, then drive for 15 seconds each. Now get back under the car and check that fluid is still running out of the fill hole, and add more fluid if necessary. Now you can start to monitor the vag. The goal is to have fluid overflowing from the fill hole when the fluid temp reaches 35*C. At that point, you can reinstall the fill plug and torque to 80Nm.

That's it. When I service my trans, I usually do this procedure a second time after driving the car for about 20 miles, so as to get as much fluid out of the torque converter as possible. If you plan to do the same, wait to replace the filter until the second drain and fill.

skribe
August 24th, 2010, 03:22
Nicely documented. I always just pumped it in a hot powertrain til it overflowed.

And I see from a lexan receptacle in the background of your pictures that this procedure may include flushing the pat system with malt-based lubricants. :lovl:

TozoM8
August 24th, 2010, 03:24
I would make sure that you can remove the filler plug before draining the trans. It would be bad if you have an empty trans that you can't refill :) http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/auto_transmission/autotranservicing.html

V8weight
August 24th, 2010, 03:29
Nicely documented. I always just pumped it in a hot powertrain til it overflowed.

And I see from a lexan receptacle in the background of your pictures that this procedure may include flushing the pat system with malt-based lubricants. :lovl:
;) Yep, why do you think I detest flex fuel cars? Ethanol is for Pat.


I would make sure that you can remove the filler plug before draining the trans. It would be bad if you have an empty trans that you can't refill :) http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/auto_transmission/autotranservicing.html
Good point. I've yet to find one that I couldn't remove, but don't crawl under the car armed with anything less than a 24" 1/2" breaker bar.

snoopra
August 25th, 2010, 02:44
Great write up! STICKY

colton14
July 18th, 2012, 22:48
What is the best type of transmission fluid for this procedure?

marklar182
July 18th, 2012, 22:50
Audi G052162A2

Justin9212
July 19th, 2012, 20:09
Schaeffer Oil SAT204 Trans Fluid is what Tozo told me to get, and now I carry it and wholesale it from my shop. Lucky for me I have ky own shop, I have a trans flush machine. No worries of any old trans fluid left in the trans. I need to do mine soon too.

sheatisdale
July 19th, 2012, 21:21
So no one uses any exotic synthetic fluids or additives like all these people go on and on about? Nice that Audi picks good fluids.

sheatisdale
July 19th, 2012, 21:44
Are the strainer and filter seperate parts? Do you always do both?
Do you modify the filter pickup by cutting it to half an inch long like other have recommended?
What do you torgue the pan bolts to?

colton14
August 24th, 2012, 21:14
How do you check the tranny fluid? Any way to check from under the hood? I want to see the condition of mine.

kevin
August 24th, 2012, 22:15
How do you check the tranny fluid? Any way to check from under the hood? I want to see the condition of mine.

no "dipstick" however there is a standpipe on the bottom of the oil pan that is used to check oil level. needs to be a certain temp and level.

colton14
August 24th, 2012, 23:43
Roughly how many quarts does the tranny take?

marklar182
August 25th, 2012, 00:06
Roughly how many quarts does the tranny take?

For a fluid change; ~8-9 liters

V8weight
August 25th, 2012, 18:46
For a fluid change; ~8-9 liters

In my experience it was always 6 quarts....I could drain and refill twice on 3 gallons...

Eagle
November 25th, 2016, 13:38
In my experience it was always 6 quarts....I could drain and refill twice on 3 gallons...
I have been thinking to do the same since my light came on and goes off due to torque converter code. There is no signs of slipping and I have been hoping a fluid change may fix it. Great write up and illustration.

CBeau
November 25th, 2016, 21:53
I have been thinking to do the same since my light came on and goes off due to torque converter code. There is no signs of slipping and I have been hoping a fluid change may fix it. Great write up and illustration.

Mine was fine at 90K+ miles, no slip no codes, and I decided to "preventatively" change my fluid and filter (with that high-end uber expensive BND fluid ... not blaming them tho) and within 300 miles it totally imploded. And I know I'm not the only one with similar circumstances. Could be coincidence but I believe the common wisdom is change fairly regularly if has been done so over cars life.... or don't touch it. Some say fresh detergents in new fluid can dislodge old and embedded deposits of gunk or whatever created by old fluid, that left alone would sit stationary as is and be fine but once fresh detergents in new fluid break them loose and they're floating around to get caught up in any of the multiple very small but mission critical fluid passages...you have a mission critical problem = dunzo trans. It was actually RS6 trans famous Tozo who told me that from his own mouth for one. Don't know about TC light, prob. bad TC if never serviced / changed. Just letting you know, search and read up on here you'll find threads. Sucks to go thru all that to only cause yourself big and immediate problems.

Eagle
November 25th, 2016, 22:51
I appreciate the heads up and potential issues. It does make sense what you are saying. I am a new owner of RS6 and gave up and M5 that I owned for 9 years. I really like the feel that RS6 gives but the horror stories that I read about service issues got me a little bit on the edge. Ouh well you have to pay in order to play. I still am surprised how well build of performance for the time. Thanks, I will follow your advice and leave it alone and just drive it.

PCMacDr
November 29th, 2016, 22:16
It worked great for me
I used the Motor, Trans Oils, Brake Fluid and Diff Oil and of course there Fuel Blend, smooth ride for sure
Improved smoothness and noise
I was having some noise with the trans, when I first got my RS6 and after it was drained and then replaced with BND, the noise
went away and it was smooth as silk
I was worried when I first got my car and thought of the dreaded Transmission change, but 2 years later, it's still running strong and NO codes
I am glad that I went with BND when I heard about them

Eagle
November 30th, 2016, 00:24
Has your car ever had the dreaded torque converter code come on ?

PCMacDr
December 1st, 2016, 05:23
Has your car ever had the dreaded torque converter code come on ?

No ( knock on wood )

If I am not mistaken, my RS6 and VIN is possibly the Last Car that was imported ( don't mark my words, but it might be )