Intercooler refurbishment and replacement pictures

[skyegtb]

Thought I would share some pictures of my recent intercooler replacement. I changed the originals (both leaking) with a spare pair that I refurbished. I fixed up the spares with JB Weld (the pictures should explain the process) then pressure tested them to 30psi. I immersed the fixed spares in a water bath to check for leaks and kept the 30psi in each intercooler for about 15 minutes before concluding the repair was successful. I chose 30psi as my car runs approx 22psi with the MTM568 conversion, and this seemed a sensible margin over the max expected pressure.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3368/4632147620_1599b064b9_b.jpg
Test equipment fitted to fully cleaned and degreased used intercooler.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3354/4631885748_46a66ec4f7_b.jpg
Blue pen marks area where leaks found, notice that I pushed up the aluminium fins to allow the JB Weld to get all the way around the leaking areas.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/4631886168_a066fa68bc_b.jpg
JB Weld! TIP: Use a hairdryer or heat gun to make the mixed compound more ‘liquid’ – that way it fills all gaps much quicker!
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4631886596_c14030f7ec_b.jpg
1 end filled, just got 3 more to do. Each end takes almost a complete JB Weld kit.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3410/4631299001_cedf43e7b6_b.jpg
Both coolers reconditioned and sprayed silver.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4631299451_2fa9a13b5d_b.jpg
Pressurised to 30psi and immersed in water – no leaks or pressure loss after 15 minutes
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4038/4631290477_9502df4789_b.jpg
The car is on the lift, starting to remove some parts! All 4 wheels are off because I was doing some other work at the same time as the cooler swap.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4070/4631291285_eb0f8331bd_b.jpg
With the wheel arch lining removed you get a good view of the inside of the old coolers – there were oil stains on both sides, the drivers side more than the passenger side.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3505/4631291549_ac5b5fece2_b.jpg
This is passenger side. As expected neither cooler would hold pressure after removal and testing.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/4631291805_65bf54b5c1_b.jpg
Bumper removal.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3399/4631295291_376bf69332_b.jpg
All of this has to come off! It has to be noted though that this is a very simple job, however having a car lift helps immensely.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4022/4631892652_49bca98f4e_b.jpg
Passenger side ready for replacing
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/4631294983_4172bc022a_b.jpg
Drivers side ready for replacing
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3333/4631898172_da35965fdb_b.jpg
Everything off, brakes stripped as well as I was going to paint the callipers a brighter colour.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4631301567_19e6b3cc16_b.jpg
Yellow calipers
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3359/4631303015_82a6362210_b.jpg
Refurbished coolers fitted
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4035/4631305453_4b2e5d63c9_b.jpg
Refurbished coolers fitted
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4007/4631905290_b07e8e9ac0_b.jpg
All ducting re-fitted
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4011/4631307983_0c59fb1647_b.jpg
All ducting re-fitted
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3412/4631308747_ace8b26b42_b.jpg
View from underneath, ready to refit lights, bumper, wheel-arch linings, under-tray etc
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4631915086_6995635668_b.jpg
Finished – VERY noticeable improvement in performance from car... I always thought the car was fast but after this repair the performance gain astounded me!!!
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4631512253_f92524d8dd_b.jpg

[snoopra]

Nice write up and great pics. What type of paint did you use for the IC's?

[skyegtb]

Nice write up and great pics. What type of paint did you use for the IC's?
Just regular alloy wheel spray can paint with a grey primer and clearcote on top, 2 coats of each

[snoopra]

OK, but wouldn't that reduce the air to air transfer cooling due to the "thicker" layer of paint?

[skyegtb]

OK, but wouldn't that reduce the air to air transfer cooling due to the "thicker" layer of paint?
To be honest I did not think about that! I would be surprised if it made a great deal of difference, and was really thinking about aesthetics more than anything else when I chose to paint them.

[snoopra]

Well they look new so you achieved your goal:)

[DHall1]

Nice job and thank you for the pics. That is how you work on a RS6. Perfect work environment.

I like the tire valve stem to introduce the air. How did you seal it to the cone? Wrap the tube around the inlet and then pop the cone over it?

Oh yeah, I guess when MTM builds their C5 RS6 575hp beasts they leave the stock Audi intercoolers on. Hmmm

[skyegtb]

I like the tire valve stem to introduce the air. How did you seal it to the cone? Wrap the tube around the inlet and then pop the cone over it?
Yep, exactly like that. I also wrapped a couple of layers of insulating tape around the other end before fitting the cap to ensure a good seal. 30psi is actually quite a lot of air to seal in!!!

[DHall1]

I thought so.

Very good solution. I will save that idea.


Yep, exactly like that. I also wrapped a couple of layers of insulating tape around the other end before fitting the cap to ensure a good seal. 30psi is actually quite a lot of air to seal in!!!

[DHall1]

Oh BTW,

Next time you have your bumper off. I have been working on a intercooler spray bar idea. I want to use the existing headlight washer pump and lines to reroute a spray bar in front of the stock intercoolers. That way we can use the washer fluid, pump and lines that run up to the front bumper already. Then just reroute the spray nozzle in the ducting for each intercooler.

Bingo instant intercooler spray nozzles.

[skyegtb]

Oh BTW,

Next time you have your bumper off. I have been working on a intercooler spray bar idea. I want to use the existing headlight washer pump and lines to reroute a spray bar in front of the stock intercoolers. That way we can use the washer fluid, pump and lines that run up to the front bumper already. Then just reroute the spray nozzle in the ducting for each intercooler.

Bingo instant intercooler spray nozzles.
Very interesting idea. I will keep an eye out for updates on this one.

[skribe]

Nicely played. Beautiful car, thanks for sharing.

For those who like to refurb aluminum parts... aluminized silver paint (can be purchased cheap at your local hardware store.) I just brush it on and it seems to completely bond with aluminum parts, right over the top of oxidization -- it's very thin and evens itself out. it's lasted through three winters on a set of brake calipers with no sign of wear.

While I'm not an engineer, I would think its metal content would be a bonus for not lowering the thermal efficiency of an intercooler.

[hahnmgh63]

When you said the drivers side was leaking worse I thought you were upsetting my statistics that the right side always leaked first then I realized you were right hand drive and I had to smile. Maybe the moron welding up the right side intercooler had some serious issues going on?
DHall1, MTM now offers the Wagners as an option if you want their complete C5 package which they still offer, I would imagine that when they first started modifying C5 RS6's there weren't any aftermarket options and not worth it enough for them to go through a design and manufacturing process for them. But the issue obviously isn't just improved perfomance, it is leaks, and when MTM started all of this on the C5's intercooler leaks weren't a known problem.

[LIRS6]

Great write-up/pics - FedEx has a new OEM pass side IC in truck for me. Ref your comment that it is a very simple job, can you guide me as to what tools are required? I don't have a shop - just a toolbox! Will buy what is needed. Thanks

[DHall1]

Yes, those are fair points.

I would like to see data logs pre/post on any Wagner equipped car. IAT temps and g/sec maf data. If these make more power and run cooler intake temps then the numbers will not lie. Nobody seems to have come up with any.





When you said the drivers side was leaking worse I thought you were upsetting my statistics that the right side always leaked first then I realized you were right hand drive and I had to smile. Maybe the moron welding up the right side intercooler had some serious issues going on?
DHall1, MTM now offers the Wagners as an option if you want their complete C5 package which they still offer, I would imagine that when they first started modifying C5 RS6's there weren't any aftermarket options and not worth it enough for them to go through a design and manufacturing process for them. But the issue obviously isn't just improved perfomance, it is leaks, and when MTM started all of this on the C5's intercooler leaks weren't a known problem.

[Aronis]

Me Too.

What's the process for removing the bumper? Is the cover still attached to the metal bumper? or did you skip a photo? How many screws/bolts?

Mike


Great write-up/pics - FedEx has a new OEM pass side IC in truck for me. Ref your comment that it is a very simple job, can you guide me as to what tools are required? I don't have a shop - just a toolbox! Will buy what is needed. Thanks

[skribe]

Yes, those are fair points.

I would like to see data logs pre/post on any Wagner equipped car. IAT temps. Nobody seems to have come up with any.

Apikol, too...

[DHall1]

6 nuts
2 bolts

once you have already removed the inner fender liners and under tray.


Me Too.

What's the process for removing the bumper? Is the cover still attached to the metal bumper? or did you skip a photo? How many screws/bolts?

Mike

[V8weight]

Great work skyegtb. For reference, this is exactly how I repaired my bank 2 intercooler about 1.5 years ago and it's been holding strong ever since. If/when my bank 1 starts to leak, I'll repair it in the same manner. Hell, if I bought new intercoolers, I'd probably JB Weld them right from the start.

[4everRS]

Now that we're keeping score, when I was at Pat's a month ago, I inspected mine very closely and they looked pretty good. I say pretty good because I got down and looked very close with a flashlight and saw that I had a miniscule amount of oil residue on the DRIVERS side. It was very little. Not a hint of residue on the passenger side.

I can't help but wonder if a good radiator repair shop could do the trick. If mine get bad, I think I will try that and let everyone know what happens. (hopefully it never does)

Nicely played. Beautiful car, thanks for sharing.

For those who like to refurb aluminum parts... aluminized silver paint (can be purchased cheap at your local hardware store.) I just brush it on and it seems to completely bond with aluminum parts, right over the top of oxidization -- it's very thin and evens itself out. it's lasted through three winters on a set of brake calipers with no sign of wear.

While I'm not an engineer, I would think its metal content would be a bonus for not lowering the thermal efficiency of an intercooler.

[skyegtb]

Great write-up/pics - FedEx has a new OEM pass side IC in truck for me. Ref your comment that it is a very simple job, can you guide me as to what tools are required? I don't have a shop - just a toolbox! Will buy what is needed. Thanks
My suggestion for tools would be to get yourself a set of metric 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" sockets / ratchets. Sizes 4mm to 19mm (try to get all sizes), also an allen socket set from 4mm up to 17mm, and a torx (star) socket set from T10 to T55. Get various lengths of extension bars for the same and this should be a good start. A metric spanner (wrench) set from 4mm to 19mm is also very useful, even better a ratchet spanner set. No 'special' or unusual tools are required to do this job and obviously not all the sizes of tools mentiond above are required, but this is just my suggestion of what you would want in your toolbox as a basic start. Since working on my Audi in 2 years the only special tool I have purchased so far was a 900mm long M12 splined 1/2" drive socket to remove the inner driveshaft bolts from the gearbox!! Hope this helps.

[skyegtb]

Hell, if I bought new intercoolers, I'd probably JB Weld them right from the start.
For definite. In fact one of the 'used' coolers I fitted appeared to be almost new, but with the issues many people have had with brand new ones failing a few days after fitting I do not think I would take the risk of fitting one without the JB Weld patch up!

[LIRS6]

My suggestion for tools would be to get yourself a set of metric 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" sockets / ratchets. Sizes 4mm to 19mm (try to get all sizes), also an allen socket set from 4mm up to 17mm, and a torx (star) socket set from T10 to T55. Get various lengths of extension bars for the same and this should be a good start. A metric spanner (wrench) set from 4mm to 19mm is also very useful, even better a ratchet spanner set. No 'special' or unusual tools are required to do this job and obviously not all the sizes of tools mentiond above are required, but this is just my suggestion of what you would want in your toolbox as a basic start. Since working on my Audi in 2 years the only special tool I have purchased so far was a 900mm long M12 splined 1/2" drive socket to remove the inner driveshaft bolts from the gearbox!! Hope this helps.

Thanks vm. I have most of the above, will fill in with the balance. Cheers

[skyegtb]

Thought I would post an update here. 15 months since doing this repair I removed and checked the intercoolers again, and did another pressure test. Firstly there was no oil staining on the outside of the coolers and secondly pressure held at 30 psi for 20 minutes with no drop. Seems like JB Weld is definitely the stuff to use here.

[ThrillHouse]

Great writeup! You only JB'd the area where the blue us but you go across the whole 'channel' ?

[skyegtb]

Great writeup! You only JB'd the area where the blue us but you go across the whole 'channel' ?
The blue pen mark showed me where the leaks were so I paid special attention when JB'ing those areas however I treated the entire channel in the same fashion as both ends. Most important is the beding up of the fins to allow the JB to spread across the whole end of the cooler from one side to the other.

[Aronis]

I plan on the JBL trick, but I'm going to be adventurous and just reach in and place the JB weld without pulling the car apart! Worth a try. I found the leak by applying silacone caulking ( I knew it would only work briefly ) and my leak 'noise' was gone for three hard pulls! I have not had time to work on the car. I am in the middle of a huge back yard DIY project (pulling in an in ground pool, water is going in as I typeLOL).

Mike

[skyegtb]

Well, good luck with that, but in my opinion I think it is unlikely it will work. Cleanliness and de-greasing is everything in this job, also, the leaks are just as likely to be at the top of the cooler as at the bottom. JB Weld does not work upside down! My advice would be to pull the coolers and do it properly when you get more time!

[arS6]

Skyegtb: great job on repairing the intercoolers. I plan to do the same. It looks like you have a fixed caliper in the rear. Which one is that? Movit?

[skyegtb]

Yep, I have Movit all round, the rear is a 4 piston and there is also a separate handbrake caliper. There are some pics in a previous post I made here:
http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/19063-Result-of-brake-disc-skimming

[SteveKen]

Very nice to hear that JB Weld is still holding the pressure.

Can you recommend a cleaning and de-greasing procedure for the IC's prior to JB Weld?

[skyegtb]

After removal from the car I used a paintbrush to liberally apply a solvent based de-greasing liquid and left them to sit for a while. I then blasted them with my pressure washer to clear all the dead insects and oil from between the fins. I was worried my pressure washer may bend the fins so tested a small area first with no issues, but I know some domestic pressure washers are considerably more powerful than other, so be careful here! Anyway, after they dried I applied another product, an acid based aluminium cleaner, again I used a paintbrush and again after about 30 minutes I pressure washed the coolers again. I used the same products to clean the inside of the coolers as well and lots of water to flush them through. Basically that's it. After they were 100% dry (you need to shake the water out of the fins quite vigerously) you can apply the JB Weld.
The bending of the fins as I described above is best done after the cleaning has been done.
Hope this helps!

[vtraudt]

Just came across this post. I did the epoxy fix on a pair. Static test was fine. But after a few weeks in the car, leaking again. Assume cause: aluminum has very high thermal expansion coefficient (much larger than epoxy). Heating up (growing) and cooling down (shrinking) likely has caused the expoxy to come off again, crack or separate from the alu.