Cost of Ownership!

[Aronis]

I've been just going through my service records, was looking for date/miles for Timing Belt change, found that. So I ended up doing the math on the total cost of ownership. Total lease payments, total loan payments (after lease change over to purchase), total service payments, total TIRES,etc...

So far I've had the car for 75 months, total payments $108,047.50 YIKES....so $1440.63 per month (not including gas, insurance or registration fees). (still have 20 months of payments so really it will be $130,475.50 for 95 months or $1373.42 per month plus maybe another set of tires LOL)

After looking that over the total cost has not been that bad!

For comparison, our mini van (Toyota Sienna) monthly payment is $907.81 on a five year note. Sure if I get 100,000 miles out of that over 75 months that would be $726.25 per month OR half the cost of the RS6. (ok let's go to that same 95 months $573 per month but I am sure that van will need tires and service) - But is the Sienna Mini Van 1/2 the car of the RS6?

Well let's see. AWD, all extras, 266 horse power, 245 ft-lbs torque, 5690 lbs, no turbo, rides nicely, lots of room, seats 7, plush interior, Nav, DVD, 3500 lbs towing capacity. Nice Family mover.....

But FAR less than 1/2 the car! (at 95 months perhaps 41 percent of an RS6?)

I'd say my RS6 has been a bargain after reviewing the cost. The extra $714.38 per month has been well worth it LOL..:heart:

And...my RS6 get's better gas mileage than the :harass:Sienna!!!
RS6 = $3.05 per horse power Sienna = $2.15 per horse power

Mike

[DHall1]

Stop paying dealer markups on parts/labor and cut that service/maint cost in half. Priceless

35k timing belt, plugs, ffilter, all the pulleys with thermostat, oil change. 700 dollars. Priceless

Front brake job with new rotors, EBC pads 700 dollars. Priceless

3,000 dollar Fidelity insurance for 6/72k past factory warranty. Priceless

I cant compare the entry costs because I paid cash for 22,000 mile car and not full sticker back in the day. But, the carry/maint costs can me managed to keep the household CFO happy if you work and source parts discounts.

.02c

[GEN XER]

^^that^^ then try to find another servicing facility whose labor isn't $115 - $130/hr. Especially if you don't have a CPO warranty. I pay $75/hr labor and I get my parts at cost or nearly cost, Genuine Audi parts at that. So for most jobs on an RS6 which are about 2 hours I pay $150 in labor, where going to a dealer would cost $230 - $260. A difference of $80 - $110/hr every 2hrs. Then I get a 15% discount for being Military. The biggest issue is finding a shop you can trust to do the work. I get to go back and watch them do all the work and I love that.

[RS6-4dr911]

3 yrs, same basis, roughly $1250/mo all in. Figure I should be payments only for another 6-12months if I stay with it. Getting the itch to get another 911.

[ben916]

Stop paying dealer markups on parts/labor and cut that service/maint cost in half. Priceless

35k timing belt, plugs, ffilter, all the pulleys with thermostat, oil change. 700 dollars. Priceless

Front brake job with new rotors, EBC pads 700 dollars. Priceless

3,000 dollar Fidelity insurance for 6/72k past factory warranty. Priceless

I cant compare the entry costs because I paid cash for 22,000 mile car and not full sticker back in the day. But, the carry/maint costs can me managed to keep the household CFO happy if you work and source parts discounts.

.02c

Thank you DAVE for the clarity... and the DIY...

I was about to put my hands in my face and cry as I would be lynched IF I were to pay stealership prices...

[DHall1]

Willie,

Yes you have found a nice place to service your car. 2nd best thing to doing it yourself.

Some day I will need to find a shop with a lift but thats after 2015. Hell I will just put a lift in by then.




^^that^^ then try to find another servicing facility whose labor isn't $115 - $130/hr. Especially if you don't have a CPO warranty. I pay $75/hr labor and I get my parts at cost or nearly cost, Genuine Audi parts at that. So for most jobs on an RS6 which are about 2 hours I pay $150 in labor, where going to a dealer would cost $230 - $260. A difference of $80 - $110/hr every 2hrs. Then I get a 15% discount for being Military. The biggest issue is finding a shop you can trust to do the work. I get to go back and watch them do all the work and I love that.

[uncfrk]

I'm predicting this RS6 will be my 3rd most expense vehicle. I paid cash (last October) and set aside an additional $10k towards initial additional costs, such as brakes, suspension, timing belt. I have another 10,000 miles until timing belt. Brakes came out better than expected (thanks to Dave & the RS6 members). Carousel in Minneapolis did a great job on the DRC. Since the car had a rebuilt transmission & new TC when I purchased it, i'm hoping to be good for a while. No warranty, but i'm allocating a $1,000 / month. -------- My most expensive was Cessna Cardinal RG --- 2nd -- Two year race season of a Late Model Stock car.

[GEN XER]

Willie,

Yes you have found a nice place to service your car. 2nd best thing to doing it yourself.

Some day I will need to find a shop with a lift but thats after 2015. Hell I will just put a lift in by then.

I have my eyes on a house in NC with nearly 2 acres of land. I am going to build a detached with a lift in it.

[uncfrk]

I have my eyes on a house in NC with nearly 2 acres of land. I am going to build a detached with a lift in it.

http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=TP-XL-9BP

These hoists are easy to install. Go ahead & buy one for your Garage. Move it when you build your shop. Less than $1,500.

[DHall1]

Oh crapper, you can come cut my grass and pull weeds for a season. You will never look at a 2ac site again.

I want to run away from home and live in our motorhome.

haha


I have my eyes on a house in NC with nearly 2 acres of land. I am going to build a detached with a lift in it.

[DHall1]

Both my attached garage and remote shop have attic space above. Arrrrghthth, I cant put hoists inside without building yet a 3rd garage/shop. CFO says no way boy.

I can always install a lift outside the back shop but it gets too darn hot in the summer and the shop has A/C. Between a rock and hard place.


http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=TP-XL-9BP

These hoists are easy to install. Go ahead & buy one for your Garage. Move it when you build your shop. Less than $1,500.

[uncfrk]

These open top, short hoists only require a 9 ft ceiling. You just need to limit the raising height. It may not be as convenient, but is still better than a jack & stands. It takes about 4 hrs to install one.

[peiserg]

Hmm. this got me to thinking...

I know this won't be exact since i'm far too lazy to pull out receipts...

Car--$54k (2006 with 6700 miles)
Mods $12,000
35k service $2800
Brake parts $1100 (group buy via Jimmy)
Tires $1500, $450
Warranty $4500, $4300 to re-up
Brake job inc pads $800? Pads were stupid expensive back then
Chasing non working APR chip problems $1000
CV boots $600

thats all off the top of my head. I had a BUNCH of warrantied stuff done, and am about to go back in for a bushing that is covered until i hit that magical 50,000 mile mark

roughly $83,200 over 43 months... $1900-ish per month... and lets say i sell today, get $30k including my mods... $53k for 43 months... $1200 per month roughly to own..

and that does NOT include gas registration or insurance.

[skribe]

Dumbest topic ever. :) These cars pretend to be rational with their four doors. Who cares about cost of ownership? How about "more than is reasonable"

[DHall1]

Kia Rio comes in a 4dr sedan.

[skribe]

Kia Rio comes in a 4dr sedan.
:hihi::lovl::harass::hahahehe::applause::rotflmao: :dig:




* (brazil will hate post)

[ben916]

Kia Rio comes in a 4dr sedan.

How does it do against a M5???

[DHall1]

Kia Rio cost about 50 bucks a month to run.

M5 about 2,000

RS6(depending on your entry point) 1,200-2,000




How does it do against a M5???

[skribe]

9429

stranger than fiction.

[DHall1]

Shankapotamus we got the wrong car! Coulda, woulda, shoulda, oh Kia


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1WjVvLm4m-0

[Aronis]

Adding a lift to your garage is very easily done, but you must first check the type of concrete used for the floor.
The lifts require the higher strength concrete at a certain thickness for the slab. You can get around using the thicker slab and more expensive concrete if you poor footings at the sites for the lift installation points.

I looked into this back in about 2000 when we built our house. I had the thicker slab put in but did not end up staying in that town.

The issue is liability should the lift fall over due to collapse of the slab. If you have seen how garages are built you'll note that the back fill the area of the floor after pouring the cement walls for the foundation of the garage. That backfilling SETTLES and can create a void right where you mount the floor plate for the lift. If that happens and you have a 4000 lb car on the lift it can break the floor and the lift will fall.

Mike

[peiserg]

well as an addendum... my $83000 spread over 43 months was incorrect. I actually bought car in 2007 (may) which means 34 months, NOT 43.


$2441/month, NOT including gas/insurance or registration..

and NOT including the big list of fixit items which certainly pushed $10,000 or more.

But... ignoring purchase price... cost was $29000, or roughly $900 per month beyond the cost of the car (still not including gas/insurance/etc)


Gots to pay to play.

But makes me think about getting a Honda Fit for my next car.

My friend bought one. $12,000

Paid for oil changes. thats it. Additional cost to own over 3 years was UNDER $150.

[ttboost]

WOW, kind of a depressing thought for someone looking to buy one of these...Using that math, (spent about $15k in 21months, not including gas, ins, cost of car etc...) my 996tt has cost me $700 a month to own and that was all modding costs!!!

[DHall1]

I have spent 2500-3000 in the last 18 months. This includes mods...RNSE, ECU reflash, new front rotors and EBC pads all around, timing belt all the rollers, bearings and thermostat...plugs, fuel filter and oil changes.

166 bucks a month to maintain and mod my beast.

The above include the 35k major service so another perspective.

[peiserg]

WOW, kind of a depressing thought for someone looking to buy one of these...Using that math, (spent about $15k in 21months, not including gas, ins, cost of car etc...) my 996tt has cost me $700 a month to own and that was all modding costs!!!

well, $12000 of that was modification. $54000 was purchase price. $9000 was warranty purchase. so $75000 of it is right there.. but her.. money is money, regardless of where you spend it..

[ben916]

I have spent 2500-3000 in the last 18 months. This includes mods...RNSE, ECU reflash, new front rotors and EBC pads all around, timing belt all the rollers, bearings and thermostat...plugs, fuel filter and oil changes.

166 bucks a month to maintain and mod my beast.

The above include the 35k major service so another perspective.

This is EXACTLY what I need to hear!
I am learning that the right foot is directly proportional to the wallet also... :)

[4everRS]

Whoa! Watch Prices on the web start to plummet now after people read this thread! I love the RS thus far - only after 4 months through. Been lucky with it so far (knocking on lamenated wood) Bought it for $24k with 73k miles. Did tbelt with Pat - $700. That's it so far, but time will tell the real truth. Will be doing transmission service this spring including MTM TCU. A friend in town with a 2002 A8L brought the trans kit for $200 and had a local indy shop do it and was charged $56 in labor. They have done quite a few audi's and merc's accoording to the owner and they have a good reputation. I will obviously go with the higher quality fluid tozo has mentioned though.

[LIRS6]

Purchase price: $73k (new May '04)
Mods: $ 3k - RNS-E, 2nd set wheels, other minor items (Stasis-Ohlins re-imbursed by AoA)
Maintenance: $10k - Services, rotors, pads, tires, etc.
Warranties: $ 6k
Total: $92k
Residual value: $25k (estimated)

Cost/month of ownership: $971 excluding insurance, gas, blah blah blah. When I compare that to the cost/round of golf at my club after annual dues/caddies/drinks/lost bets, etc. the $971/mo is less than the cost/round of golf that I play ... but I wouldn't give up either of them.

[DHall1]

Chilly today in the mid 60s and sunny.

$22.00 t time. zero caddy fees, no dues, only blue hairs in the damn way.

[mmaturo]

F'me again...I paid $68,900 (73K out the door with sales tax and fees) in early Sept '05 (at "$73 new in 04"...grrrrrr) for my 24K used beast CPO'd. Residual prob $19K. RNSE $1500 w XM module; logo mats $700, 19" OEM wheels $2800, $400 to paint my 18's and center caps, 4 sets of stolen stem caps $26ea - $104; 2 sets of front brakes/rotors all in twice $2000 at indy shop, once at dealer $1400; Pads 3 sets of EBCs $550; Tires winter $1200, Summer 3 sets of PS2s in 19" - $4800 w/ road hazard warranty; timing belt/water pump just now plus headlamp gaskets $1476 (after nice huge freebie discount); Front bumper repainted plus clear bra $400 and $300; new windshield $600; new front grill $129; RS6+ dead pedal $120; blinker relay $60; oil changes 6 at indy shop $600; 4 x at dealer $600; headlight bulb, $200; missing center caps on wheels $100; 3 RS6 key chains $48; time spent in loaner car while paying for an RS6 for at least 6 months of my ownership...priceless. No energy to do the math on the above....and uncharted land of no warranty that will ramp this up fast.

[LIRS6]

Chilly today in the mid 60s and sunny.

$22.00 t time. zero caddy fees, no dues, only blue hairs in the damn way.

Warmer today with temps in the 30's, snow starting tonite thru Friday afternoon with accumulations of 6-12" expecetd .... blow me :)

[jefferdr]

Someone please KILL this thread! Like someone said above, this is residual value kryptonite. If I had seen this before I bought mine, I surely would have gone in a different direction - as will most sane future buyers. I know that misery loves company and that it is fun for some of us to revel in our financial misery, but come on......

Anecdotal evidence, but have you seen how many RS6s are for sale right now, and have you seen the prices since this thread was started? Surely I am not alone in wanting my car not to have it's value destoryed..............

[DHall1]

^^ Jeff

Not all examples are bad. That is why I put this in the mix. With mods and 2 major service points....166 bucks a month of carry cost. Also, many RS6 examples are going up in price. In the end a clean low mileage RS6 will always command a decent price.

LI-I hear ya. 73 tomorrow and my buddy nabed a free round for us at Superstition Mtns up in Phoenix. Normally a 130 dollar course. Woooohooo. This Nicklaus course has been the site of the 2002 Countrywide Tradition tournament and the home of the LPGA Safeway International from 2004 to 2008. And recently the Prospector Golf Course was selected by Golfweek magazine as one of the “Top 100 Residential Courses.” Ha! I got a free round.

http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/03RSTT/RS6pics/Nicklaus-course.jpg?t=1267026420

I GOTTA GET THIS ON THE GREEN....ARRRRRRGHTHT DAMMIT

http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/03RSTT/RS6pics/hack.jpg?t=1267026704





I have spent 2500-3000 in the last 18 months. This includes mods...RNSE, ECU reflash, new front rotors and EBC pads all around, timing belt all the rollers, bearings and thermostat...plugs, fuel filter and oil changes.

166 bucks a month to maintain and mod my beast.

The above include the 35k major service so another perspective.

[Born2be]

I compared (used) AMG's and M cars when I was searching, and couldn't find one with similar performance capabilities as the RS6 for another $10k at least. It may not be the fastest/baddest around, but $/bang for the buck I guess I'm okay with my beast for now (that and my 6/60 Fidelity platinum warranty).

W>

[Born2be]

^^ Jeff

Not all examples are bad. That is why I put this in the mix. With mods and 2 major service points....166 bucks a month of carry cost. Also, many RS6 examples are going up in price. In the end a clean low mileage RS6 will always command a decent price.

LI-I hear ya. 73 tomorrow and my buddy nabed a free round for us at Superstition Mtns up in Phoenix. Normally a 130 dollar course. Woooohooo. This Nicklaus course has been the site of the 2002 Countrywide Tradition tournament and the home of the LPGA Safeway International from 2004 to 2008. And recently the Prospector Golf Course was selected by Golfweek magazine as one of the “Top 100 Residential Courses.” Ha! I got a free round.

http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/03RSTT/RS6pics/Nicklaus-course.jpg?t=1267026420

I GOTTA GET THIS ON THE GREEN....ARRRRRRGHTHT DAMMIT

http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/03RSTT/RS6pics/hack.jpg?t=1267026704

PLEASE tell me that's not you playing a red ball!!!

W>

[DHall1]

I got it I got it I got it. Thats the guy that plays with the red balls. !!!!!!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOcoTnXHoDs

Guys give me some slack. I use those neon green balls.

LOL

[MaxRS6]

I've had it!!!! It is a warm balmy 36F here at the moment.

I just threw the clubs in the trunk and I'm headed to the course to knock the little ball. I've photoshopped some of your pugs onto the balls, so I'm expecting to get some real club head speed on the ball.Good news is that no blue hairs will be in the way- However; I may be playing with blue balls ;0

[uncfrk]

It's warming up here too. 9 degrees from -3 this morning:vgrumpy:

[RS6-4dr911]

Someone please KILL this thread! Like someone said above, this is residual value kryptonite. If I had seen this before I bought mine, I surely would have gone in a different direction - as will most sane future buyers. I know that misery loves company and that it is fun for some of us to revel in our financial misery, but come on......

Anecdotal evidence, but have you seen how many RS6s are for sale right now, and have you seen the prices since this thread was started? Surely I am not alone in wanting my car not to have it's value destoryed..............

Mine included RNS-E and bluetooth ($2500) and interest on payments. Subtract those and you're down to about $900/mo for maintenance and depreciation. That's less than the 993 I owned for 1 yr (in 1999) and about the same as I spent on a 4 yr old 1991 M5 for 2-3 years. Neither had anywhere near the performance of the RS6. Count me happy.

[uncfrk]

Adding a lift to your garage is very easily done, but you must first check the type of concrete used for the floor.
The lifts require the higher strength concrete at a certain thickness for the slab. You can get around using the thicker slab and more expensive concrete if you poor footings at the sites for the lift installation points.

I looked into this back in about 2000 when we built our house. I had the thicker slab put in but did not end up staying in that town.

The issue is liability should the lift fall over due to collapse of the slab. If you have seen how garages are built you'll note that the back fill the area of the floor after pouring the cement walls for the foundation of the garage. That backfilling SETTLES and can create a void right where you mount the floor plate for the lift. If that happens and you have a 4000 lb car on the lift it can break the floor and the lift will fall.

Mike

I'm sure we want good support under the hoist, but I've not heard of any problems with collapsing floors around here. I always made sure that we drilled through the concrete to make sure it was substantially thick. Also, you want to do that so if the hoist is moved, you can drive the studs down below flush and fill the holes without pulling them up. I can't imagine one side of a properly installed hoist collapsing with a 13" x 18" (234 sq inches) base with 6 studs holding it down. One front corner of my F250 weighs nearly 2,500 lbs. with only a 8" x 8" (64 sq inches) surface patch on the floor, three and a half times more surface pressure than a hoist with an RS6 on it. I've never worried about it dropping through the floor. I would recommend a 20" x 24" 1/4" steel plate under the hoist's footings to double your area if you are uncomfortable with the integrity of the floor. I believe the going price for a professional installation is about $400.

[peiserg]

well i only had about $3000+ in non warrantied maintenance beyond my purchase price.. most of which was my 35k mile service. thats about $100/month!

dont forget.. i spent a lot on a warranty, and a lot on mods... $21,000 between just those two items, which severely skews my overall monthly cost, especially over a mere 32 months!

[kismetcapitan]

I'm taking a different route, and one that will become more common. I sought out the best example I could find with as low mileage as possible *after* the 75K service, with as many mods that I was going to install anyways already done. My car came in at $22K cash, private party sale, and I think, other than it being immaculate, the Level 10 mod having been done was a big factor for me (along with the requisite ECU/TCU reflashes). One month of ownership, about 2000 miles done (two big road trips), lots of V-Power consumed, $90 for insurance for the month, $200 for iPod wiring, $600 to get the DRC "high rear" syndrome and Hotchkis roll bars purchased and installed - the car will be expensive as I complete my modification list over the next few months.

Then we'll see if my cost of ownership compares favorably or not with my new car option - to buy a brand new Nissan GT-R. I'm fairly certain that the depreciation hit alone on that car will be more than I spend on maintenance for the RS6.

That being said, for the fiscally minded, this isn't really a car to consider. I got this car because I wanted this car, and if it cost $50K used these days, I'd have paid that much (I missed that 6K garage queen RS6 that went for $42K due to being overseas and not being able to move cash fast enough - by the time I had, the car was gone).

But it does make sense to get the most bang for your buck, and I think I found my equation. A fair amount depends on the depreciation in the next 50,000 miles, but I didn't buy this car to resell. It's a different mindset.

[Turbowned]

I hate to bring this oh-so-scary thread up from the dead, but have any of you *gulp* not purchased a warranty and can share associated costs with that? Potentally looking to buy an RS 6. I will do my own maintenance/service but it's those unscheduled repairs that scare the willies out of me. I don't think you can even get a warranty given the age of the car now?

I'm wondering how big of an "oh-sh*t" fund I should keep on the side. Gas mileage is the same as my WRX STi. Insurance shouldn't be much worse. Car can be had for $18-30k so buy-in is more than reasonable for a car of this caliber, and at 10yrs of age it's no longer en vogue so I think it's hit the low point of depreciation (or at least we can only hope). Doing it all with a just-barely-under-six-figure salary and two other cars in the garage is the question. I'm accustomed to dumping all my money into my cars, so long as all my money is enough!

[lswing]

My previous car was a WRX wagon tuned, close to 300hp, but no sti. Fairly reliable, and not too bad to fix. RS6 is an amazingly powerful luxury sedan when tuned, but costs can be scary...

Leaking radiator, $2k...

Steering rack, $3k...

O2/EGT sensors, $2k...

Trans, $7k...

That was over the last few years, car has been great this year. It's almost a restoration project as it's 10 years old now. Big thing I didn't know before buying was how many repairs require an engine pull and drive up the price.

Advice...find one that's sorted and fixed and cared for...make sure you know a good mechanic...have $5-10k around at all times.

[DHall1]

I have service contracts on both my RS6s. One has been perfect from day one and the other blown trans at 40k. I think its the early/late vin situation on the trans.

That said, you can still buy a service contract if you find a low mileage example. Say 50k miles.

Do it! But find the lowest mileage example you can afford and make damn sure its 100% stock on the driveline. Oh and find a late vin say later than 905500 Sept/03 or later build and the trans will be good to go. STI is fun but still a tin can. RS6 is a real car.




I hate to bring this oh-so-scary thread up from the dead, but have any of you *gulp* not purchased a warranty and can share associated costs with that? Potentally looking to buy an RS 6. I will do my own maintenance/service but it's those unscheduled repairs that scare the willies out of me. I don't think you can even get a warranty given the age of the car now?

I'm wondering how big of an "oh-sh*t" fund I should keep on the side. Gas mileage is the same as my WRX STi. Insurance shouldn't be much worse. Car can be had for $18-30k so buy-in is more than reasonable for a car of this caliber, and at 10yrs of age it's no longer en vogue so I think it's hit the low point of depreciation (or at least we can only hope). Doing it all with a just-barely-under-six-figure salary and two other cars in the garage is the question. I'm accustomed to dumping all my money into my cars, so long as all my money is enough!

[mmaturo]

What DHall said. Transmission fund. Read up on symptoms. Test drive any RS6 carefully after you do read up. RS6s without a transmission failure in my opinion are the exception. Owned one under 6 years of warranty. 5 torque converters and 4 transmissions...I traded it in at 86K with early symptoms for a 5th. Of 8 fellow RS6 owners I know personally only one still has the originally transmission. He rarely uses it and even more rarely drives it hard. Fantastic car. I miss it but glad I can replace it finally.

[MORS6]

I got mine with 68,xxx miles. Stock and allegedly problem free. Within 300 miles the dreaded cel for TC was thrown. I spent $450 on a rebuilt TC with ACE and spent New Years day and $2,xxx with Gabor aka TOZO. He also took care of the O2 sensors then for about $300 from amazon. For the last 50,000 plus miles I've had a Eurocharged tune with mtm transmission chip. I had EBC red brake pads ($225) put on the existing rotors and paid for one timing belt change. Kit was around $400 from a member here and my local guy charged $500 for the labor. I went through a set of continental extreme dws tires at about $1000 mounted. That is about it.
Summary:
$3000 torque converter and O2 sensors
$1000 tires
$900 timing belt service
$1000 Eurocharged & MTM tunes
$550 for 5 oil changes
$325 brake pads with labor
$149 alignment
$281 replace all upper arms
$60 Quantum Blue atf from member
$19 Hazard/Blinker flasher (ebay)
$7 wiper blades
The above covers 3 years and 55000 miles.

SO to answer your question. I didn't have a warranty. My only unscheduled repairs were less than $3000 for the TC repair and O2 sensors. $281 to replace all upper arms and I also spent $19 to replace the hazard flasher myself. Bought with 68,xxx miles and am at 123,xxx and counting.
Would I do it again? Heck ya! Would I do it if I didn't know a local mechanic that worked cheap and did great work? Heck no! - Even though I've only needed him for the timing belt, brakes, and upper arms I wouldn't own any Audi if I had to go to the local dealership for service.

Would I give my mechanic a lung or kidney, if he needed it, to stay alive? If it keeps him repairing Audis, so I could keep my RS6 - Yes again.

[lswing]

Would I do it if I didn't know a local mechanic that worked cheap and did great work? Heck no!

This....saved me $5-10k....

[ttboost]

If you can do your own work and you find a car that has been maintained, you will be fine. If you find a manual one, you will be even better off, because 95% of the trouble you will have will be trans & TC related. Not "if"...but "when". IMO, anything other than trans or TC is an "easy" fix. Mine also has the SAI and EGT deleted, which is another source of nuisance CELS...sometimes putting you in limp mode. I also have Vagcom and the cable, another MUST HAVE if you own this car.I
f it wasn't for the manual swap, I wouldn't have spent squat on my car in 3 years. And by squat, I mean less than $1000...It needs a tires and a trans mount now, but only because I am being lazy and cheap...

[905084]

If you're 18....get Subaru Impreza....(what I got my daughter).....when your 28....get a Subaru WRX......when you're 38......get a WRX STI.....when you grow up....48....get an RS6...

[DHall1]

My first RS6 at 45 then next at 50. Now I have two to burn as I wait to see what Audi brings over next.


If you're 18....get Subaru Impreza....(what I got my daughter).....when your 28....get a Subaru WRX......when you're 38......get a WRX STI.....when you grow up....48....get an RS6...

[lswing]

If you're 18....get Subaru Impreza....(what I got my daughter).....when your 28....get a Subaru WRX......when you're 38......get a WRX STI.....when you grow up....48....get an RS6...

I opted for the RS6 at 38...but I basically agree...first car was a 91 civic sold at 290,000 miles, good little car.

[905084]

My first RS6 at 45 then next at 50. Now I have two to burn as I wait to see what Audi brings over next.

My wife saw the new RS....she said "hey, we can have that in 10 years!" wish I could afford all the new Panamera Turbos and Teslas I've seen around here....but for now I'll settle for being able to play with them on middle class salary :))

[DHall1]

Get rid of the big mortgage and high property taxes and its amazing what you can afford. Been there and done that...now we are making another move to trim even more overhead, more/zero mortgage, more property tax and most importantly 0 state income tax.

Got my eye on the new S6 sedan when I turn in my dd #3 RS6 in a few years.

The middle class is a trap to break our wallets. We are the ones that pay for everything. Well I'm done paying for the hind tit wankers. Bring on Obamacare.


My wife saw the new RS....she said "hey, we can have that in 10 years!" wish I could afford all the new Panamera Turbos and Teslas I've seen around here....but for now I'll settle for being able to play with them on middle class salary :))

[mmaturo]

I opted for the RS6 at 38...but I basically agree...first car was a 91 civic sold at 290,000 miles, good little car.

lol....get divorced, so you can and do buy RS6 at 36...smile. RS5 at 43, R8 at 44 and RS7 at probably 45 since its delayed. Stopped waiting for another damn RS6 and just buying whatever they do send.

If you blow time on R8 forums its scary...I am a fossil by age around there. Lots of 20s and 30s there from the .com world. First car 75 Buick Regal, second a 1984 chevy cavalier convertible (pos but still cant go wrong with a convertible) but drove my Dad's Honda CRX ...great little car...really learned 'how' to drive with that car

[905084]

J.O.B. Just over broke.......I'm not quite ready to give up Park City....so I'll work a bit more....maybe for another 10 years or until the wife kicks my ass to the curb....then somewhere else...

[DHall1]

Yep, your mileage may vary as the upkeep costs vary greatly.

#1 Late VIN RS6 w/45k. Cost me nothing this year. 5k miles/yr and factory trans completely intact from day 1.

#2 Early VIN RS6 w/60k. Cost the service contract 25k this year. Sold it after all the repairs to buy #3. Trans at 40k.

#3 Early VIN RS6 w/47k. Cost the service contract 17k and counting this year. TC at 40k, Trans at 41k, now with 47k all seems well. Out of pocket about 1k in maint costs while the engine was out. Otherwise I do all the work.






What DHall said. Transmission fund. Read up on symptoms. Test drive any RS6 carefully after you do read up. RS6s without a transmission failure in my opinion are the exception. Owned one under 6 years of warranty. 5 torque converters and 4 transmissions...I traded it in at 86K with early symptoms for a 5th. Of 8 fellow RS6 owners I know personally only one still has the originally transmission. He rarely uses it and even more rarely drives it hard. Fantastic car. I miss it but glad I can replace it finally.

[905084]

lol....get divorced, so you can and do buy RS6 at 36...smile. RS5 at 43, R8 at 44 and RS7 at probably 45 since its delayed. Stopped waiting for another damn RS6 and just buying whatever they do send.

If you blow time on R8 forums its scary...I am a fossil by age around there. Lots of 20s and 30s there from the .com world. First car 75 Buick Regal, second a 1984 chevy cavalier convertible (pos but still cant go wrong with a convertible) but drove my Dad's Honda CRX ...great little car...really learned 'how' to drive with that car

Wise person once said....always someone with a bigger house...hotter wife....faster car.....I'm happy with my fun divided by dollar .....

[mmaturo]

Wise person once said....always someone with a bigger house...hotter wife....faster car.....I'm happy with my fun divided by dollar .....

They were right. My house is average, wife ok, car is faster... just my car collection is a bit expansive. No kids either...big point there...that makes it possible (would rather have the kids) that should help folks do the math. Also just did that overhead reduction of doing the move from downtown Chicago to suburban Florida. Way the heck less taxes, no state income tax, and just about all goods/services cheaper. Pay raise right there.

[DHall1]

Went from 10k/yr property tax in Oregon to 4k in the current house/AZ to a potential 1500/yr in TN

Went from 10%+ state income tax in Oregon to 5-6% in AZ to Zero/ziltch/nada in TN.

Going to leave the hot AZ land of sky high sales tax and value levy license plate fees/main reason I will not buy a new car in AZ to the lovely country outside Nashville. Cars/trucks/motorhome all paid for and watch the monkeys swing from the trees. LOL


They were right. My house is average, wife ok, car is faster... just my car collection is a bit expansive. No kids either...big point there...that makes it possible (would rather have the kids) that should help folks do the math. Also just did that overhead reduction of doing the move from downtown Chicago to suburban Florida. Way the heck less taxes, no state income tax, and just about all goods/services cheaper. Pay raise right there.

[mmaturo]

Went from 10k/yr property tax in Oregon to 4k in the current house/AZ to a potential 1500/yr in TN

Went from 10%+ state income tax in Oregon to 5-6% in AZ to Zero/ziltch/nada in TN.

Going to leave the hot AZ land of sky high sales tax and value levy license plate fees/main reason I will not buy a new car in AZ to the lovely country outside Nashville. Cars/trucks/motorhome all paid for and watch the monkeys swing from the trees. LOL

Great idea. Best move I did was to get the house down south at the same time as the R8 to save over 3% on the sales tax...on an R8 GT that was indeed huge. All cars owned outright except for the RS5 and house is paid down by half. Condo in Chicago still owned but rented to cover all costs. So soon finances will be about pure savings for the rest of the way in.

[905084]

Everyone has their own way they want to live....and that is what I love about this forum...I love driving to work once a week and having no stoplights or signs to work over 35 miles and only one stop light home. Still willing to pay Utah state income tax at 7.5 to get the view I have on my off days. Lots of people here with a s#!t load more money than me, but can still have fun with a 10 year old car.

[mmaturo]

and a ten year old car that is way more fun than 98% of cars out there still. It is a timeless beast. I would still have mine if it weren't for the new tranny every 15K in my case. Still miss the car. It really is number one on previous cars I have owned of the favorite. I'm hoping the RS7 will feel like it again. The RS5 is way different. Miss the torque.

[NSU RS6]

and a ten year old car that is way more fun than 98% of cars out there still. It is a timeless beast. I would still have mine if it weren't for the new tranny every 15K in my case. Still miss the car. It really is number one on previous cars I have owned of the favorite. I'm hoping the RS7 will feel like it again. The RS5 is way different. Miss the torque.
Nice segue gentlemen. I too recently flipped the 50 and it is amazing how you start counting your peanuts. Especially in my case - THREE daughters. One is launched through college with a good job, one half way through, and the youngest starts college next year. That has been a $4K >per month< draw for the last six years. The oldest is getting married next year. HMFJCMOG. Photographer? $3K. Venue? $3K. I figure that is a 1/3 of it, but I am sure there will be more surprises. No wonder there are so many in the wedding planning biz. Nice GDP adder.
Nice stable mmaturo. That 60 Biarritz must have been a hell of a stumble upon, what a ride. I think everyone needs something like that just because. Right now, for me, the past is a 1981 Scirocco S. But I really want a 55 Healey 100. Happy with my bone stock, perfect, nevereverneverever abused RS6 for now, but that 10secS4 tune is tempting. Will probably do that in the next year, then keep the RS6 for another couple. The RS5 is on my radar - we'll see. End goal is the R8 though. Carry on.

[DHall1]

No matter what the cost...its worth it.

I drive #1 on Saturdays to work just the fun of low traffic on the hwy. 95% of my commute is hwy with 75mph speed limits. ;)

Well two jack a$$es in Hondas decide to block both lanes and drive 70mph. 5 miles go by and I determine that they have no plans to move over. The Honda in the right lane speeds up alittle giving me a 1/2 car gap and then proceeds to brake check me on the open hwy. Well, I was expecting this move and planned on putting two wheels off on the shoulder and passing both of them in about 2 seconds.

Complete morons and I think the one was scared out of his shorts when I went by at about 100mph.

[Turbowned]

Thanks for the replies, guys!


If you're 18....get Subaru Impreza....(what I got my daughter).....when your 28....get a Subaru WRX......when you're 38......get a WRX STI.....when you grow up....48....get an RS6...

How about a Toyota MR2 at 18, MR2 Supercharged and Mazda RX-7 Turbo at 20, MR2 Turbo and Datsun 240Z at 21, BMW 325i at 23, Audi S4 at 25, Subaru BRZ and WRX STi at 27? LOL I must be on the accelerated program. Or the "not financially sound" program.

I am young and I may be skipping some steps (i.e. buying an RS 6 before turning 30) but what can I say? I have expensive tastes and a strong desire for MOAR POWAHHHH. Being an Audi salesman before turning to selling Subarus and leasing an S4 really spoiled me. Most of my friends are happier than pigs in $#!t driving around in creaky, squeaky, suped-up Subarus, but for me it's not enough. I have a 2013 Subaru BRZ and a 2004 WRX STi, the latter of which will be sold to make room for the RS 6. Apart from the car addiction I'm single, rent is cheap and only carry another year or two of college debt. I also conveniently rent a garage unit with a few friends so I have the ability to do all my own work, and if I get in over my head, I'm friends with a Porsche/Audi master tech and still know all the people at the local Audi dealer.

I'm definitely looking out for a manual-converted RS 6 to save major headaches (and because automatic is boring), but I might make an exception for the right Daytona Gray automatic and do the conversion myself. The lower the mileage and more expensive to begin with, most likely the better.
Time to start saving up an "oh, $#!t" fund!