Potentially Purchasing C5 RS6 - Advice?

[justinrlee]

Hi,

I'd like to apologize in advance for some pretty newbish questions. I've been browsing the forum but I'd like some opinions.

I'm looking at purchasing a C5 RS6 (Canadian 2004, with 87k miles). DRC has been performed, as has timing belt. I'm not expecting maintenance to be cheap (I've got a a B6 S4), but I was wondering whether there's anything in particular I should be on the lookout for - any major issues that tend to come up. Will mostly be a daily driver, not looking to race or launch or anything, and will mostly be kept stock (in the process of modding the S4). How much should I expect to spend on maintenance for an RS6? Couple thousand a year? Ten times that? Probably gonna put 8-10k miles on it per year or so.

Car had an independent inspection done, few minor issues (need new wipers, brakes need to be looked at), and then this "driver side valve cover has small sweat starting, very minor, but will need attention in 20k or so" - I'll ask for more details on that, but does that sound serious?

For brakes, am I correct in assuming that brake replacement consists of pads + rotors?

I got a quote for Fidelity for 2 year/24k miles.

Anything else I should look into/ be worried about?

Thanks in advance!

Justin

[Father_Flanagan]

Sounds like a really nice car to putz around in while getting to mod an S4. Seems like life for you it isn't too bad, eh?

I am also curious about the sweating valve cover. Is it sweating water or oil?

I have nothing intelligent to add to your other questions, so I will leave those alone, but best of luck!

Father Flanagan

[DHall1]

We got a 2 lot answering questions from a 1 lot.

If the 1 lot did any searching he would fine 3 tons of info.

http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/03RSTT/RS6pics/doublefacepalm.jpg

[JRS-RS6]

Get as long of a Warranty you can afford to get.

[justinrlee]

We got a 2 lot answering questions from a 1 lot.

If the 1 lot did any searching he would fine 3 tons of info.

I actually did search. Thanks.

Found a post about 3 years ago saying no major issues have cropped up except DRC and a very expensive but "rare" transmission replacement. I was wondering whether anything cropped up in the last 3 years.

Also saw a recommendation for Fidelity - exactly the same as the S4 I just picked up. Which is why I'm getting it.

I assume I need rotors and pads when I do brakes, was just hoping for confirmation.

For the S4 there's a big "what you need to know when buying the S4". There's nothing similar here, was hoping for a Cliff notes.

I know a lot of people here have a lot of experience with these. I also know a lot of people here are probably annoyed with newbie questions. I'm sorry.

[justinrlee]

Get as long of a Warranty you can afford to get.

2/24 is the longest they offer - they said they essentially don't warranty much past 100k. :(

Justin

[JRS-RS6]

I actually did search. Thanks.

Found a post about 3 years ago saying no major issues have cropped up except DRC and a very expensive but "rare" transmission replacement. I was wondering whether anything cropped up in the last 3 years.

Also saw a recommendation for Fidelity - exactly the same as the S4 I just picked up. Which is why I'm getting it.

I assume I need rotors and pads when I do brakes, was just hoping for confirmation.

For the S4 there's a big "what you need to know when buying the S4". There's nothing similar here, was hoping for a Cliff notes.

I know a lot of people here have a lot of experience with these. I also know a lot of people here are probably annoyed with newbie questions. I'm sorry.

For the brakes do a search on EBC Redstuff.

Timing belt is every 35K miles on RS6 and requires pulling the Lock Support to get access.

The valve cover gasket like many other things will most likely require pulling the engine. If you can DIY on most things than you can save on the labor which is most of the costs of ownership from what I have seen so far.

[justinrlee]

For the brakes do a search on EBC Redstuff.

Timing belt is every 35K miles on RS6 and requires pulling the Lock Support to get access.

The valve cover gasket like many other things will most likely require pulling the engine. If you can DIY on most things than you can save on the labor which is most of the costs of ownership from what I have seen so far.

Thanks! :0:

Very helpful.

[Jimmy]

A little weeping is no big deal, try cleaning the area and snugging down the bolts...sometimes that's all is needed. But if you have oil dripping beyond the belly pan then its time to get pro-active.

As for brakes, them rotors OE are sure expensive, even at shop prices...pads you can find a set for all the wheels for $150 to your door I bet. EBC Reds or the Posi Centrics seem to be better products than OE. I just did all the rotors and pads (the Posi Centrics) on mine as the car is new to me (and needed it badly)...I'm at 86K. I guess I could have re-surfaced them like many other folks here have done but I wanted new thick stuff as I plan to track it come spring. But I plan to be good for the next 7 years and 80K at least, hopefully.

Enjoy your new car ! ...I think you'll find it none the worse to maintain then your S4 (and not unlike my C5 allroad 2.7TT), although some parts are just too darn expensive on this rare Audi to replace unless absolutely necessary. Just my 2 cents...

[DHall1]

Justin,

I was joking with ya. If you read some threads this is a pretty good group that spreads a ton of info. We are punchy at times and like to give each other some ribbing. All good fun.

Valve covers.....if the left side is leaking the right side is the same you just cant see it. The RS is the one that needs to pull the engine.

Transmission....plan on a rebuild/torque converter replacement at your miles. long story just search torque converter.

brakes.....expect to replace the whole shootin match rotors and pads. again if you cant do the basic work...the markup will kill you. if you can do the basic work you can buy the rotors at discount and slap them on yourself. still diy expect 700 dollar front brake pad and rotor repl.

Generally the cars are reliable but your getting in at higher miles. Its a crap shoot at that mileage. esp if you put lots of miles on the car.

timing belts every 35k. If you cant do this job.....shops like to rape RS6 owners up to 3500 bucks for the complete service. If you can diy....700 but its a major job.

Overall Its your comfort level and risk.

I always say to search for the lowest mile RS6 you can find and buy the longest term ext warranty you can afford. The lower the mile car the cheaper the ext warranty and longer you can get it covered.

You are coming in late on the RS6 and its getting harder and harder to find low mile clean cars. buy on in the US and ship it up to Canada


I actually did search. Thanks.

Found a post about 3 years ago saying no major issues have cropped up except DRC and a very expensive but "rare" transmission replacement. I was wondering whether anything cropped up in the last 3 years.

Also saw a recommendation for Fidelity - exactly the same as the S4 I just picked up. Which is why I'm getting it.

I assume I need rotors and pads when I do brakes, was just hoping for confirmation.

For the S4 there's a big "what you need to know when buying the S4". There's nothing similar here, was hoping for a Cliff notes.

I know a lot of people here have a lot of experience with these. I also know a lot of people here are probably annoyed with newbie questions. I'm sorry.

[justinrlee]

As for brakes, them rotors OE are sure expensive, even at shop prices...pads you can find a set for all the wheels for $150 to your door I bet. EBC Reds or the Posi Centrics seem to be better products than OE. I just did all the rotors and pads (the Posi Centrics) on mine as the car is new to me (and needed it badly)...I'm at 86K. I guess I could have re-surfaced them like many other folks here have done but I wanted new thick stuff as I plan to track it come spring. But I plan to be good for the next 7 years and 80K at least, hopefully.

Enjoy your new car ! ...I think you'll find it none the worse to maintain then your S4 (and not unlike my C5 allroad 2.7TT), although some parts are just too darn expensive on this rare Audi to replace unless absolutely necessary. Just my 2 cents...

I plan on keeping this.. for a long long time. Good to know. Found the EBC's for 175, that looks promising. And I'll probably go with JHM rotors link (http://www.jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_66_68_227_253&products_id=485), I've got their S4 front BBK and I'm overall pretty happy with them.



Valve covers.....if the left side is leaking the right side is the same you just cant see it. The RS is the one that needs to pull the engine.

Transmission....plan on a rebuild/torque converter replacement at your miles. long story just search torque converter.

brakes.....expect to replace the whole shootin match rotors and pads. again if you cant do the basic work...the markup will kill you. if you can do the basic work you can buy the rotors at discount and slap them on yourself. still diy expect 700 dollar front brake pad and rotor repl.

Generally the cars are reliable but your getting in at higher miles. Its a crap shoot at that mileage. esp if you put lots of miles on the car.

timing belts every 35k. If you cant do this job.....shops like to rape RS6 owners up to 3500 bucks for the complete service. If you can diy....700 but its a major job.

Overall Its your comfort level and risk.

I always say to search for the lowest mile RS6 you can find and buy the longest term ext warranty you can afford. The lower the mile car the cheaper the ext warranty and longer you can get it covered.

You are coming in late on the RS6 and its getting harder and harder to find low mile clean cars. buy on in the US and ship it up to Canada

I'm actually buying a car for California. Seller is in Nevada but he's got a Canadian car (go figure). He says it's essentially been in Southern USA (Florida and Nevada) for all it's life, which is a good sign. It's a pretty good price for the miles (I think - 22k for 87k miles), just a few small issues, and also the Canadian km vs miles on the speedo, although I'm sure I can compensate for that.

Tranny was replaced 8k ago, so that's good. Valve covers I'll look into. I don't have the space to do the work myself (otherwise I would) but I know the local indie shop did all four of my S4 brakes for just under 600, so I think they'll give me a pretty reasonable price for the RS6 fronts - I don't think they'd be much more difficult (if at all). Pre-inspection said about 50% on pads, so I'm probably good for another 10k? at least, and then I figure ~800 for rotors, ~200 for pads, ~500 for labor is reasonable.

Belt was done about 25k ago, so I figure it's coming up but not right away.

Sorry, I didn't sleep last night so I was a bit touchy. No hard feelings :)

[eurotunedrs6]

You must be looking at the on posted on audizine and other forums. $18k is a pretty good deal. Get a hold of the service records before you make to purchase. Those will tell you a lot by themselves. With the mileage I would be paranoid about the torque converter myself. Mine has 20k less than yours but I'm still worried about. Worse case scenario, get a warranty that will cover it. Speaking of warranties you should shop around for them....fidelity has gone through the roof this past month so you might be able to save a few bucks that way.

[justinrlee]

You must be looking at the on posted on audizine and other forums. $18k is a pretty good deal. Get a hold of the service records before you make to purchase. Those will tell you a lot by themselves. With the mileage I would be paranoid about the torque converter myself. Mine has 20k less than yours but I'm still worried about. Worse case scenario, get a warranty that will cover it. Speaking of warranties you should shop around for them....fidelity has gone through the roof this past month so you might be able to save a few bucks that way.

Yeah that's the one. I honestly don't plan on pushing the car that hard so hopefully the tranny will hold up. Question on failing torque converter: is there generally signs that it's headed out? Or is it more like it works one day, doesn't work the next.

Also, what's the word on aftermarket warranties? I've generally heard that Fidelity (through Audi) is expensive but good, and US Fidelis is a scam. CNA National good? Anything else highly recommended?

[DHall1]

If I can post a picture of a monkey smoking a cig as my mug then my skin is pretty thick. Just dont tell me I am wrong about a torque converter diagnosis and we are fine.

Now this car your looking at has had some major items replaced already. Hmmm, it could be a good deal if that is your price point and your willing to bank some money for potential future repairs.

Brakes at 50% means change the pads NOW, RIGHT NOW if they are stock pads. again long story. Just slap on some EBC reds and leave the rotors for now. 150 bucks.

good luck



I plan on keeping this.. for a long long time. Good to know. Found the EBC's for 175, that looks promising. And I'll probably go with JHM rotors link (http://www.jhmotorsports.com/shop/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=21_66_68_227_253&products_id=485), I've got their S4 front BBK and I'm overall pretty happy with them.



I'm actually buying a car for California. Seller is in Nevada but he's got a Canadian car (go figure). He says it's essentially been in Southern USA (Florida and Nevada) for all it's life, which is a good sign. It's a pretty good price for the miles (I think - 22k for 87k miles), just a few small issues, and also the Canadian km vs miles on the speedo, although I'm sure I can compensate for that.

Tranny was replaced 8k ago, so that's good. Valve covers I'll look into. I don't have the space to do the work myself (otherwise I would) but I know the local indie shop did all four of my S4 brakes for just under 600, so I think they'll give me a pretty reasonable price for the RS6 fronts - I don't think they'd be much more difficult (if at all). Pre-inspection said about 50% on pads, so I'm probably good for another 10k? at least, and then I figure ~800 for rotors, ~200 for pads, ~500 for labor is reasonable.

Belt was done about 25k ago, so I figure it's coming up but not right away.

Sorry, I didn't sleep last night so I was a bit touchy. No hard feelings :)

[DHall1]

bada bing

http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19930&highlight=problems+problem+rs6

http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=15938&highlight=problems+problem+rs6

http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11857&highlight=problems+problem+rs6

[Brazil]

The valve cover gasket like many other things will most likely require pulling the engine.

That's entirely false. Luckily the leak is in the driver's side (aka "Left") valve cover gasket. That one can be changed without pulling the engine.

Here's a list of "standard" things that require an engine pull:
Right Valve Cover Gasket
Right EGT Sensor
Either Primary O2 Sensor
Torque Converter

Many other things can be changed without a pull.

[RS6-4dr911]

That's entirely false. Luckily the leak is in the driver's side (aka "Left") valve cover gasket. That one can be changed without pulling the engine.

Here's a list of "standard" things that require an engine pull:
Right Valve Cover Gasket
Right EGT Sensor
Either Primary O2 Sensor
Torque Converter

Many other things can be changed without a pull.

Passenger side valve cover gasket can also be done without engine pull - just had it done a few months ago. Still a lot of work but no pull required.

[Brazil]

Passenger side valve cover gasket can also be done without engine pull - just had it done a few months ago. Still a lot of work but no pull required.

Yeah, I heard that as well, but since I haven't done it myself (will be doing it soon with TB/WP/etc), I was just going off of the bentley manual.

I guess it just takes a few more hours to remove all the items that are in the way. haha.

Looking forward to ripping everything apart and getting to know the car as intimately as I know the others, especially the Esprit.

[BenA]

Justin,

I was joking with ya. If you read some threads this is a pretty good group that spreads a ton of info. We are punchy at times and like to give each other some ribbing. All good fun.



Was glad to see the follow-up post to DHall's first post. I feared that someone had taken the generally friendly and tolerant veteran and replaced him with a pompous douchebag!!

Welcome to the boards Justin - great bunch here that has been extremely helpful to me. My $0.02 would be to try to find a lower mileage example so you can have a longer Fidelity warranty... but I'm pretty risk-averse, and the TC/trans issue history is a bit scary. You're probably taking no greater risk on an RS6 than several other models, but if something big goes, it's almost guaranteed to drain your wallet and a good part of another account.

[DHall1]

Pompous me

It was funny. How many times do you see a first time poster get answered by a 2nd time poster. Classic. It will never happen again. Trying to make light of it but I did come back when time permitted and gave some ideas. Glad Justin didnt take it the wrong way.

[BenA]

Pompous me

It was funny. How many times do you see a first time poster get answered by a 2nd time poster. Classic. It will never happen again. Trying to make light of it but I did come back when time permitted and gave some ideas. Glad Justin didnt take it the wrong way.

Definitely... it's great to have another good sport in the group!

[skribe]

A lot of this is obvious, but -

Agree with some others paying a bit more for lower miles is money well spent. Although 18k is pretty dang cheap... if you end up passing on that one for some reason:

autotrader.com has the widest listings. Once in a while there will be a car on cars.com that's not also on autotrader, but there are always more on autotrader.

I would avoid eBay. Just my personal theory... I use it all the time for parts but for an entire car the counting down clock and rival bidders clouds your mind and puts too much emotion into things.

Do you have a VAG-COM? If you could run a quick scan pre-purchase it might save you a lot of headaches. I scanned one car during the "test drive" and rejected it.

Be patient, don't get emotional, which is hard. Wait for the right car if you need to, it will come up eventually. Took me six months, but worth it.

Obviously CARFAX is your friend as well. Consider a three-month subscription, it frees you to check any and every car that pops up.

Resist the urge to buy a car sight-unseen. Some people are comfortable doing that, but I would've gotten smoked if I had bought a couple of the cars I looked at online without inspecting in person. Better to burn a few hundred on a cheap flight than $$,$$$ on a fubar'd RS6.

[ben916]

A lot of this is obvious, but -

Agree with some others paying a bit more for lower miles is money well spent. Although 18k is pretty dang cheap... if you end up passing on that one for some reason:

autotrader.com has the widest listings. Once in a while there will be a car on cars.com that's not also on autotrader, but there are always more on autotrader.

I would avoid eBay. Just my personal theory... I use it all the time for parts but for an entire car the counting down clock and rival bidders clouds your mind and puts too much emotion into things.

Do you have a VAG-COM? If you could run a quick scan pre-purchase it might save you a lot of headaches. I scanned one car during the "test drive" and rejected it.

Be patient, don't get emotional, which is hard. Wait for the right car if you need to, it will come up eventually. Took me six months, but worth it.

Obviously CARFAX is your friend as well. Consider a three-month subscription, it frees you to check any and every car that pops up.

Resist the urge to buy a car sight-unseen. Some people are comfortable doing that, but I would've gotten smoked if I had bought a couple of the cars I looked at online without inspecting in person. Better to burn a few hundred on a cheap flight than $$,$$$ on a fubar'd RS6.

I think I might be the poster child of delayed pulling of trigger on purchasing...

I waited 4 years for the prices to be reasonable.
I teetered on the edge many times, as some may attest to this claim.
The "congressional" jump light was switched from Red to Green and back so many times, I stopped documenting it..
Once the Green light was on... I set up searches/alerts on Autotrader and was looking 3+ times a day for the right one.
The right one came along...

Also Searchtempest.com is good also for seeing EVERYTHING nationwide on Craigslist.

O/T:
Also does the VAG-COM switch the odometer to KM vs miles?
Does it also change the SPEEDOMETER?

[JRS-RS6]

That's entirely false. Luckily the leak is in the driver's side (aka "Left") valve cover gasket. That one can be changed without pulling the engine.

Here's a list of "standard" things that require an engine pull:
Right Valve Cover Gasket
Right EGT Sensor
Either Primary O2 Sensor
Torque Converter

Many other things can be changed without a pull.

I stand corrected; however, you reinforced my point that many other things do (at least according the the Dealer and manual) require pulling the engine (i.e. maintenance is NOT cheap). Thank you for the clarification.

[LIRS6]

Justin -

I have 81k on mine, owned since new.

Perhaps some ownership history will assist you ..

(approx)

10k - dreaded OnStar 'red light' - long story, it's history anyway.

15k - symptom: intermittent starting. Fix: replace wiring harness

25k - symptom: clunking suspension. Fix: Stasis MS (I passed on the DRC re-call/fix when offered by Audi and pocketed the $4.5k check AoA sent me).

- replaced fr rotors/pads

- purchased Fidelity Platinum

38k - faulty trunk latch replaced.

49k - symptom: CEL (no driving issues). Fix: replace TC. (also I replaced O2 sensors on my dime as only cost me parts due engine pull for TC)

- replaced fr rotors/pads

73k - replaced f/r rotors (OEM) and pads (EBC red) , work done by Indy

74k - symptom: fan running after shut-down, engine running hotter than normal. Fix: replace thermostat (no cost to me - thank you Fidelity Platinum).

- did timing belt/water pump/etc. at same time due engine pull
my out-of-pocket about $1200

76k - symptom: clicking at front end when turning. Fix: re-torque front rack (freebie from dealer)

78k - symptom: CEL (no driving issues) Fix: replace exhaust sensors (no cost to me - thank you Fidelity Platinum).

- as warranty ending, bought Fidelity drivetrain warranty 4 yrs/48k for $3k (I was beyond acceptable mileage to get Platinum coverage, but it would have been over $5k for 24 mos which I would have passed on anyway).

This car helps me get up every day and motivates me to get to work. It takes me skiing to Vt. It schlepps my son and his pals around to soccer games. It takes the garbage out - well, I put it the can in my trunk. About the only thing it doesn't do is get me laid - my wife of 21 yrs couldn't give a shit about an Audi RS6 (I think she's just jealous of my relationship with the car!). I will modestly say that prices of new cars do not keep me from buying one - I just can't find a 2010 car that I can get as passionate about as I have the RS6.


Anyway, hope the above helps you.

Good luck to you.

[justinrlee]

A lot of this is obvious, but -

Agree with some others paying a bit more for lower miles is money well spent. Although 18k is pretty dang cheap... if you end up passing on that one for some reason:

autotrader.com has the widest listings. Once in a while there will be a car on cars.com that's not also on autotrader, but there are always more on autotrader.

I would avoid eBay. Just my personal theory... I use it all the time for parts but for an entire car the counting down clock and rival bidders clouds your mind and puts too much emotion into things.

Do you have a VAG-COM? If you could run a quick scan pre-purchase it might save you a lot of headaches. I scanned one car during the "test drive" and rejected it.

Be patient, don't get emotional, which is hard. Wait for the right car if you need to, it will come up eventually. Took me six months, but worth it.

Obviously CARFAX is your friend as well. Consider a three-month subscription, it frees you to check any and every car that pops up.

Resist the urge to buy a car sight-unseen. Some people are comfortable doing that, but I would've gotten smoked if I had bought a couple of the cars I looked at online without inspecting in person. Better to burn a few hundred on a cheap flight than $$,$$$ on a fubar'd RS6.

Right now I'm debating internally between the Canadian 76k mile and the red 29k mile one. On the one hand, 29k is essentially nothing (and very tempting) when it comes to these cars. On the other hand, it costs almost twice as much (in other words, I could almost get two of them for that price. I'm also a huge fan of sleeper and red != sleeper for me.

I also just bought an S4 for 18k, and ended up spending an additional 15 within 2 weeks in mods/maintenance (warranty, clutch, brakes, exhaust, etc.), so it's hard for me to justify the the 30k$ RS6. Decisions, decisions.

I think ebay is a valuable tool for finding cars, but I don't think I would actually go for one on auction. I found my SUV and bought it sight unseen off an auction on ebay, but I completed the entire transaction offline.

No VAG-Com, a lot of the locals have them, but if I do get this I might get one. Hmm.

I'm a pretty impulsive buyer. Damn.

[justinrlee]

This car helps me get up every day and motivates me to get to work. It takes me skiing to Vt. It schlepps my son and his pals around to soccer games. It takes the garbage out - well, I put it the can in my trunk. About the only thing it doesn't do is get me laid - my wife of 21 yrs couldn't give a shit about an Audi RS6 (I think she's just jealous of my relationship with the car!). I will modestly say that prices of new cars do not keep me from buying one - I just can't find a 2010 car that I can get as passionate about as I have the RS6.


Anyway, hope the above helps you.

Good luck to you.

Sounds awesome, and now I really want one. Hmm.

[ben916]

I'm a pretty impulsive buyer. Damn.

There is an RS600 prowling the streets in Minneapolis, MN that would be an incredible sleeper... :)

And it is black... no VIN...

[ben916]

Sounds awesome, and now I really want one. Hmm.

There is one in Idaho for $27999, not on the Autotrader radar but a member on this forum. Pellapat or something like that...
He snatched his RS6 from Encinitas, CA (about 30 miles from me) as I was warming up to jump off the edge...

Found it....
http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20083

[Brazil]

74k - symptom: fan running after shut-down, engine running hotter than normal. Fix: replace thermostat (no cost to me - thank you Fidelity Platinum).

- did timing belt/water pump/etc. at same time due engine pull
my out-of-pocket about $1200

Uh, are you sure they pulled the engine to replace the thermostat? That doesn't make sense at all. I think you meant to say front clip pull, right?

[LIRS6]

Uh, are you sure they pulled the engine to replace the thermostat? That doesn't make sense at all. I think you meant to say front clip pull, right?

I blv I am correct - can anyone else comment?

[DHall1]

You dont need to pull the engine to service the thermostat.

If the engine were out for some other reason.....it makes it much easier to change the thermostat.

[pellapat]

There is one in Idaho for $27999, not on the Autotrader radar but a member on this forum. Pellapat or something like that...
He snatched his RS6 from Encinitas, CA (about 30 miles from me) as I was warming up to jump off the edge...

Found it....
http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20083

Thanks Ben, It is now on the trader for 26999 and so far 7 hits and one getting close.

[DHall1]

Buy Pellapat's car. No brainer.

[ben916]

You dont need to pull the engine to service the thermostat.

If the engine were out for some other reason.....it makes it much easier to change the thermostat.

Just trying to help...
I remember there was a TON of stuff/maint/etc done before heading up to Idaho.
I would have bought yours.... but there are other mitigating circumstances (which will not be discussed at this time) that forced me to via a dealer/financing/etc...

[justinrlee]

Bringing back this thread instead of starting a new one.

Basically, picked up the 18k one in Vegas. I'm very very happy with it.

To do: 85k service (oil filter/oil change, service display, windshield wipers, general tests)
In addition, I'm thinking: front rotors (JHM lightweight) + EBC Red front pads, EBC Red rear pads + turn rotors (rear rotors don't have to replaced as often right? - can I turn rotors and install new pads without issue?)
Fix a small coolant leak (previous owner bought the parts)
Previous owner was a smoker, and you can smell the smoke. I'm thinking new cabin air filter, and take it to one of those interior car wash places? Any suggestions on getting rid of smoke smell?

Also, and this is my biggest issue: it currently has a speedo in km/h, and I apparently need to convert it to mp/h to have it titled/registered here (in California). I got a set of http://www.lockwoodinternational.co.uk/rs6-kmh-to-mph-conversion-dial-for-imported-vehicle-part-no-c299-more-details-i3251.html conversion dial, but I honestly have no idea how to go about installing it. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[4everRS]

Congrats Justin. The rotors can be turned, but there is a min thickness stamped on the rotor, can't remember now what it is. I thinks Pat(V8weight) knows. Rear rotors will go for quite some time. Has there been any tranny issues? If not, have a GOOD tranny shop do basic checks like fluid level ect. You may even want to replace it, and get the MTM TCU chip in it. As soon as the weather is nice enough to take out the chevy, I will be sending my TCU to Hoppen in FL. Have fun with it.

[justinrlee]

Congrats Justin. The rotors can be turned, but there is a min thickness stamped on the rotor, can't remember now what it is. I thinks Pat(V8weight) knows. Rear rotors will go for quite some time. Has there been any tranny issues? If not, have a GOOD tranny shop do basic checks like fluid level ect. You may even want to replace it, and get the MTM TCU chip in it. As soon as the weather is nice enough to take out the chevy, I will be sending my TCU to Hoppen in FL. Have fun with it.

I'm hoping the rear rotors are still good, I guess I'll ask the shop to check. I'm having most work done at an independent shop here in northern california (Streetwerke), that has done a lot of the work on my S4. The previous owner had the DRC and tranny replaced 10k ago, so I'm assuming they're still in good condition, although I'll probably ask for a transmission fluid flush just as preventative work. I'm still looking into the MTM TCU chip, trying to decide on that.