Anyone yet needed to replace rear rotors??

[Aronis]

My car is at 95000 miles and my front rotors (second set) are toast. New set on order. But rears are still ok. I figured I need to replace the rears at some point. Hope to swap the fronts this Tuesday I had them off when I did the brake pads last spring. Rotor swap is a snap. Just remove some brake fluid from cylinder. LOL.

Has anyone actually needed rear rotors? At what mileage??

Mike

ps begin rant: My dealer checked the brakes at DRC repair. Five thousand miles ago "they're fine. Brakes are fine.". WTF. the inner front rotors are worn through the rivets. Noticed while I did my oil change last week. WTF end rant.

[DHall1]

Mike,

I remember that post you made. I told you at the time not to let it go. Dealer staff have no clue about the stupid OEM pad rivets. The techs dont have to dig 1500 dollars of out their pocket to replace brakes on these things. We do so there is alittle more motivation on our end to watch much closer.

Did you order the rotors from genuinevwaudiparts.com? They were running 560 for the fronts. No sales tax.

Rears....I would just leave them if not worn under min.


My car is at 95000 miles and my front rotors (second set) are toast. New set on order. But rears are still ok. I figured I need to replace the rears at some point. Hope to swap the fronts this Tuesday I had them off when I did the brake pads last spring. Rotor swap is a snap. Just remove some brake fluid from cylinder. LOL.

Has anyone actually needed rear rotors? At what mileage??

Mike

ps begin rant: My dealer checked the brakes at DRC repair. Five thousand miles ago "they're fine. Brakes are fine.". WTF. the inner front rotors are worn through the rivets. Noticed while I did my oil change last week. WTF end rant.

[mmaturo]

Damn $560. That makes me smile. My last set was $820 a year ago.

I'm still on my original to me rears at 85K. Although i have a vibration now from high speed down...not sure if its the fronts or rears.

[V8weight]

Damn $560. That makes me smile. My last set was $820 a year ago.

I'm still on my original to me rears at 85K. Although i have a vibration now from high speed down...not sure if its the fronts or rears.
I would imagine that the vibration is coming from the fronts. The proportioning valve sends so little pressure to the rears that short of driving 500 miles with the E-brake on, I don't think that you could build up enough heat to warp the rear rotors. I recently had the same vibration, not during regular driving, just while braking from anything over the triple digits. A new set of front rotors cured it.

[LIRS6]

My car is at 95000 miles and my front rotors (second set) are toast. .

Wow Mike - only 2 sets at 95k .. I went through my second set of fronts at 49k .. is it just me? Third set, plus rears, done at 75k. Are you pulling a Fred Flintstone and dragging your feet in order to stop?

[Jimmy]

My car has 86K on it now and I just had pads and OE rotors installed all around this past Friday...they were all the original rotors it looked like! Spend the money and get the OE front pad spring/caliper pin set too....we had to ruin the front pins to get them out.

The rears def needed to be done on mine...and it seemed to get rid of a highway vibration that I thought was a bent or out of balance rim. Bonus.

I'm going to clean up the old rotors and make wall clocks out of them. :) Nicely engineered pieces of metal/eye candy.

[p3u]

At 95k miles I just my rears turned, good as new, and much less then replacements!

[gjg]

Wow Mike - only 2 sets at 95k .. I went through my second set of fronts at 49k .. is it just me? Third set, plus rears, done at 75k. Are you pulling a Fred Flintstone and dragging your feet in order to stop?


I did 2 sets of front pads @ 58k km, rear at that point about gone, replaced with Movit all corners, 3rd set of front pads/second front rotors, 2nd pads on rear, all @ 115k km. This setup seem to utilize the rear brakes bit better than stock. :0:

[Avus-RS6]

71K miles and my RS6 is on its third set of rear rotors(they've been replaced twice) as well as fronts.

[Aronis]

The Rivets I am referring to are on the ROTOR not the pads!

The inner surface of the rotors is so worn that I can see what appears to be the mounting rivets or bolts which are used to hold the rotor together! I am not 100% sure, but once I remove them I'll know more.

The issue is that in order to "Check" the rotors they are supposed to simply measure the thickness with a caliper and then if below spec recommend replacement.

To say "They are fine" and then end up with such obvious excessive wear just a few thousand miles later is simply carelessness. I have to find the printout, if I recall then make note of my request to have the brakes checked and their findings! LOL

The rear rotors are in pretty good shape.

Those who also have high mileage and have replaced pads and rotors more frequently must have had more non-highway driving? A low mileage - in the city only car - perhaps could have the need for more frequent brake changes?

I must say I was very surprised when the rotors needed to be first replaced at about 25 k miles since I had not seen that kind of wear before. My 1997 M3 had about 65000 miles when I turned it in and it was on the original brake pads and rotors! It was a lighter car I guess.

I have no issues with replacing the parts, the brakes otherwise have been great! I have not had any vibration issues (luckily) so I guess the rotors have worn nice and evenly LOL...

Have a nice day!

I'll be doing the work this Saturday.

Mike


Mike,

I remember that post you made. I told you at the time not to let it go. Dealer staff have no clue about the stupid OEM pad rivets. The techs dont have to dig 1500 dollars of out their pocket to replace brakes on these things. We do so there is alittle more motivation on our end to watch much closer.

Did you order the rotors from genuinevwaudiparts.com? They were running 560 for the fronts. No sales tax.

Rears....I would just leave them if not worn under min.

[Aronis]

At 95k miles I just my rears turned, good as new, and much less then replacements!


I understand that "Turning" the rotors just resurfaces the rotors to remove irregularities but it does not add back lost thickness!

Mike

[Aronis]

Wow Mike - only 2 sets at 95k .. I went through my second set of fronts at 49k .. is it just me? Third set, plus rears, done at 75k. Are you pulling a Fred Flintstone and dragging your feet in order to stop?

LOL....

I think this would be the third set of rotors (I really can't be certain until I pull out the other bills) If I recall I had the first done at about 25k or 30 k miles (included in warrantee) and I think another set done at about 70? Not sure. Maybe just the one time. I really don't recall the $820 bill for those parts! YIKES.

I paid that $820 this week though!:lovl:

Mike

[SAFE4NOW]

Mike -

Please post pictures of the rotors once off, I'd be interested to see their conditon.

Steve

[Aronis]

Will do!

Mike

[MikeL01]

Just replaced front and rear calipers at 41k. Rears were mostly ok. I'm looking at a Billy Boat exhaust...any thoughts?

[p3u]

I understand that "Turning" the rotors just resurfaces the rotors to remove irregularities but it does not add back lost thickness!

Mike

If the rotor is not less then minimal thickness then what is the problem? Still has more then enough rotor and a nice like new finish.

[Aronis]

Just finished changing front rotors. Took about 45 minutes. Quite easy.

Old rotors worn beyond spec but the inside surface was not as bad as it looked when I was under the car last week.
The Rivets I thought I saw were simply the cross drill holes full of brake dust. D'oh....how silly of me:)

I still need to sort though my bills for the total count, but I think this was set three including original.

I must say it was one of the easier repairs I've done on a car from a maintenance standpoint. The "tighten the steering rack thing" was pretty quick! Far easier than the oil change:)..

I'll post photo's of the old rotors later. I'd rather post photos taken with my Canon D10 than my Iphone.

Mike


(yes the brakes still work)

[Aronis]

Looked up records
I had my first set replaced at 48000 miles under warrantee with first brake pad replacement!

So at 96000 miles I am due for rotors right on time.

:)

Mike

[Aronis]

Just checking on spec, had to check Bentley Manual.

Minimum spec for front rotor 32 mm.
Mine down to 31 mm.
Starting point 34 mm.
Hard to believe I burned through more than 1 mm in 6000 miles?? Considering I had new rotors at 48,000 and now 96,000, thats about 16,000 miles per mm thickness from 34 mm to 31 mm minimum.
So I'll stick with my original RANT that when they Checked my brakes and said they were fine all around, they did not measure them! No big deal but just facts.

[DHall1]

All good points. Just to clarify you did not find rivets in the rotor disc.

You didnt wish to order the parts from discountvwaudiparts.com? Audi rotors for 560?

Its fun to wrench on the car.


The Rivets I am referring to are on the ROTOR not the pads!

The inner surface of the rotors is so worn that I can see what appears to be the mounting rivets or bolts which are used to hold the rotor together! I am not 100% sure, but once I remove them I'll know more.

The issue is that in order to "Check" the rotors they are supposed to simply measure the thickness with a caliper and then if below spec recommend replacement.

To say "They are fine" and then end up with such obvious excessive wear just a few thousand miles later is simply carelessness. I have to find the printout, if I recall then make note of my request to have the brakes checked and their findings! LOL

The rear rotors are in pretty good shape.

Those who also have high mileage and have replaced pads and rotors more frequently must have had more non-highway driving? A low mileage - in the city only car - perhaps could have the need for more frequent brake changes?

I must say I was very surprised when the rotors needed to be first replaced at about 25 k miles since I had not seen that kind of wear before. My 1997 M3 had about 65000 miles when I turned it in and it was on the original brake pads and rotors! It was a lighter car I guess.

I have no issues with replacing the parts, the brakes otherwise have been great! I have not had any vibration issues (luckily) so I guess the rotors have worn nice and evenly LOL...

Have a nice day!

I'll be doing the work this Saturday.

Mike

[Aronis]

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[Aronis]

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[Aronis]

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[Aronis]

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[Aronis]

So the Cross Drill Holes are COMPLETELY plugged up. That is what appeared to be a rivet when I was looking from under the car while changing the oil. I was fooled LOL.

I had to use a power drill to clear a few of the holes. See the pencil stuck in one.

It's probably not a bad idea to clear those holes yearly when summer tire/winter tire change over is done and brake inspection is done...lazy me..

Mike