what oil do i use?

[ttrs6]

Not sure what brand our weight of oil to use on my c5 rs6.

[DHall1]

505.1 only

Castrol TXT 5w40
Redline make a 505.01

[V8weight]

I use this. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-RS6--4.2T/Maintenance/Engine/Oil/ES258727/

[DALLAS_RS6]

I use this. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-RS6--4.2T/Maintenance/Engine/Oil/ES258727/

Did you see any difference? Power, gas mileage, etc.?

[V8weight]

Did you see any difference? Power, gas mileage, etc.?
From oil? No, I wish I could tell you that it made my car feel faster, but it didn't. My experience was when I first started using it, my first two oil changes the oil came out really dirty. On the third oil change and every one since, my oil has come out relatively clean. That tells me that it cleaned up my engine and is continuing to keep it clean. When I look down into my oil cap my valve train looks as clean as Dave's suspension. I also noticed that my engine is much quieter on cold start ups. I've been using Lubro Moly products as long as I've been driving German cars. Everybody has their own brand loyalties, this is one of mine.

[DHall1]

Good points.

I normally hate Castrol.

But, German Castrol is different for euro cars. As is the TXT 505.1 oil.

Castrol and most every other oil on the shelf at Walmart will ruin your engine.


From oil? No, I wish I could tell you that it made my car feel faster, but it didn't. My experience was when I first started using it, my first two oil changes the oil came out really dirty. On the third oil change and every one since, my oil has come out relatively clean. That tells me that it cleaned up my engine and is continuing to keep it clean. When I look down into my oil cap my valve train looks as clean as Dave's suspension. I also noticed that my engine is much quieter on cold start ups. I've been using Lubro Moly products as long as I've been driving German cars. Everybody has their own brand loyalties, this is one of mine.

[hahnmgh63]

You can look into past posts but I use Redline 10W-40. I know, I know, Audi says 5W-40 but they are trying to cover fuel economy, multiple climates, etc... In a milder climate the 10W-40 has the advantage of a slightly higher oil film and a higher HTHS (high temp, high shear) rating.

[GEN XER]

I use this. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-RS6--4.2T/Maintenance/Engine/Oil/ES258727/

This may help you understand why this oil works better. If you do an oil analysis of the oil right out of the bottle (virgin) you will find out what the TBN, Phos and zinc levels are. I have not seen an oil analysis for this oil before. Then those number could be compared to what I know about Castrol, Castrol TXT, Mobile 1, Amsoil, Valvoline, Pennzoil and QB. I use www.blackstone-labs.com to do my oil analysis.

Let's face it, oils are not what they use to be.

With the advent of the EPA Phase III, solid lifter and flat tappet cams are wiping out!!! Even if you have a roller set up, all is not well these days. Some companies are recommending diesel oils to help with the loss of Zinc, which is the anti-scuff agent that was once prevalent in all oils. This doesn't help as these oils also have been reduced in the amount of additives to comply with the new CJ 07 oil specs. All SJ, SL, and SM and later oils have been stripped of their effective additive packages for "clean air".
The EPA claims that zinc hurts emission control components namely the catalytic converter. We find this funny since most all vehicles since 1975 have had catalytic converters and emission control components. The more sophisticated emission components have been around since the early 80's. EXCEPT for a few of those brand new engines 07/08, they are virtually the same and have been for many years. What it comes down to is a desire to speed up the destruction of our vehicles so we will go out and replace them with new ones. Once again, they are going ahead and penalizing the rest of us for a few new models. (We also blend oils for new models also!)
What they have embarked on is the reduction of SAPSZ. This is Sulfated Ash, phosphorous, sulfur, and zinc. Sulfated Ash is the component that mitigates the total base number or TBN. Total Base Number is a measure of the amount of basic additives in a lubricant. High TBN is desirable in a crankcase oil to control corrosive engine wear from the acids of combustion. Phosphorous is an anti-scuff agent that is critical in protecting high RPM and High load engines from wear especially on cams, lifters, and cam followers. Zinc or Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate (ZDDP) chemically reacts with iron to prevent welding of moving metal surfaces. What this component does is essentially a chemical polishing of the metal surface. The QuantumBlue technologies in every gallon of specially blended lubricant far exceeds the SAPSZ reduction problem. We blend the oils to be the optimum in protection for each application.

Man I should be getting paid for this.

[grambler]

I'm using 5w40 SUPER LL TDI-Oil - this oil is usually used for diesel engines and seems to be perfectly fine for the RS6, this choice was backed up with advice directly from the HQ of the Swiss importer of AUDI - AMAG.
http://content.screencast.com/users/GBLASER/folders/Jing/media/a057c263-8bc2-4280-95e3-d5673d247549/2010-01-11_0009.png

I've covered about 10'000km's since the last change and had no issues at all.

Edit: @V8weight: Seems that you're using a diesel-engine oil too, nice to see that I'm not the only one driving around with this kind of oil. I'm curious for the next change, let's see if get the same results as you do in terms of "dirtiness" :) How often do you change the oil?

[V8weight]

I'm using 5w40 SUPER LL TDI-Oil - this oil is usually used for diesel engines and seems to be perfectly fine for the RS6, this choice was backed up with advice directly from the HQ of the Swiss importer of AUDI - AMAG.
http://content.screencast.com/users/GBLASER/folders/Jing/media/a057c263-8bc2-4280-95e3-d5673d247549/2010-01-11_0009.png

I've covered about 10'000km's since the last change and had no issues at all.

Edit: @V8weight: Seems that you're using a diesel-engine oil too, nice to see that I'm not the only one driving around with this kind of oil. I'm curious for the next change, let's see if get the same results as you do in terms of "dirtiness" :) How often do you change the oil?
I change mine every 5000miles or about 8000km's

[V8weight]

This may help you understand why this oil works better. If you do an oil analysis of the oil right out of the bottle (virgin) you will find out what the TBN, Phos and zinc levels are. I have not seen an oil analysis for this oil before. Then those number could be compared to what I know about Castrol, Castrol TXT, Mobile 1, Amsoil, Valvoline, Pennzoil and QB. I use www.blackstone-labs.com (http://www.blackstone-labs.com) to do my oil analysis.

Let's face it, oils are not what they use to be.

With the advent of the EPA Phase III, solid lifter and flat tappet cams are wiping out!!! Even if you have a roller set up, all is not well these days. Some companies are recommending diesel oils to help with the loss of Zinc, which is the anti-scuff agent that was once prevalent in all oils. This doesn't help as these oils also have been reduced in the amount of additives to comply with the new CJ 07 oil specs. All SJ, SL, and SM and later oils have been stripped of their effective additive packages for "clean air".
The EPA claims that zinc hurts emission control components namely the catalytic converter. We find this funny since most all vehicles since 1975 have had catalytic converters and emission control components. The more sophisticated emission components have been around since the early 80's. EXCEPT for a few of those brand new engines 07/08, they are virtually the same and have been for many years. What it comes down to is a desire to speed up the destruction of our vehicles so we will go out and replace them with new ones. Once again, they are going ahead and penalizing the rest of us for a few new models. (We also blend oils for new models also!)
What they have embarked on is the reduction of SAPSZ. This is Sulfated Ash, phosphorous, sulfur, and zinc. Sulfated Ash is the component that mitigates the total base number or TBN. Total Base Number is a measure of the amount of basic additives in a lubricant. High TBN is desirable in a crankcase oil to control corrosive engine wear from the acids of combustion. Phosphorous is an anti-scuff agent that is critical in protecting high RPM and High load engines from wear especially on cams, lifters, and cam followers. Zinc or Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate (ZDDP) chemically reacts with iron to prevent welding of moving metal surfaces. What this component does is essentially a chemical polishing of the metal surface. The QuantumBlue technologies in every gallon of specially blended lubricant far exceeds the SAPSZ reduction problem. We blend the oils to be the optimum in protection for each application.

Man I should be getting paid for this.

Here's a virgin analysis of Lubro Moly:

"OIL PROPERTIES
TBN: ?
Vis @100 C: 14.02 cSt
Oxidation: 0
Sulfur 7
Nitration: 0

WEAR METALS
Iron: 1
Aluminum: 0
Chromium: 0
Copper: 0
Lead: 0

ADDITIVES
Zinc: 995
Phos: 989
Calcium: 1880
Magnesium: 469
Molybdenum: 3

CONTAMINANTS
Silicon: 0"

Knock yourself out.

[GEN XER]

The Phos and Zinc in QB is three times the amount in the Lubro oil. The Mag and Calcium in QB is twice the amount in the Lubro. The Lubro looks better than the TXT in my opinion. The Diesel has higher levels of Phos and Zinc for heavy duty work, it is not harmful it is what makes it protect metals better. You really cant say there are no problems w/o an analysis, you wont know how much wear is in the oil w/o analytical testing of the properties of the oil. You cant just look at oil and say its good.

QB Virgin Sample
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q22/GENXER1971/QBOilSample-1.jpg

Castrol TXT Sample
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q22/GENXER1971/RS6Virgin-1.jpg

What it means
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q22/GENXER1971/BlackstoneImage-1.jpg

[DHall1]

Copy and stick this info on the BND thread I started.

I think we need to be running the BND oil as well.

The Castrol TXT is not bad but BND is much better. Damn


This may help you understand why this oil works better. If you do an oil analysis of the oil right out of the bottle (virgin) you will find out what the TBN, Phos and zinc levels are. I have not seen an oil analysis for this oil before. Then those number could be compared to what I know about Castrol, Castrol TXT, Mobile 1, Amsoil, Valvoline, Pennzoil and QB. I use www.blackstone-labs.com (http://www.blackstone-labs.com) to do my oil analysis.

Let's face it, oils are not what they use to be.

With the advent of the EPA Phase III, solid lifter and flat tappet cams are wiping out!!! Even if you have a roller set up, all is not well these days. Some companies are recommending diesel oils to help with the loss of Zinc, which is the anti-scuff agent that was once prevalent in all oils. This doesn't help as these oils also have been reduced in the amount of additives to comply with the new CJ 07 oil specs. All SJ, SL, and SM and later oils have been stripped of their effective additive packages for "clean air".
The EPA claims that zinc hurts emission control components namely the catalytic converter. We find this funny since most all vehicles since 1975 have had catalytic converters and emission control components. The more sophisticated emission components have been around since the early 80's. EXCEPT for a few of those brand new engines 07/08, they are virtually the same and have been for many years. What it comes down to is a desire to speed up the destruction of our vehicles so we will go out and replace them with new ones. Once again, they are going ahead and penalizing the rest of us for a few new models. (We also blend oils for new models also!)
What they have embarked on is the reduction of SAPSZ. This is Sulfated Ash, phosphorous, sulfur, and zinc. Sulfated Ash is the component that mitigates the total base number or TBN. Total Base Number is a measure of the amount of basic additives in a lubricant. High TBN is desirable in a crankcase oil to control corrosive engine wear from the acids of combustion. Phosphorous is an anti-scuff agent that is critical in protecting high RPM and High load engines from wear especially on cams, lifters, and cam followers. Zinc or Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate (ZDDP) chemically reacts with iron to prevent welding of moving metal surfaces. What this component does is essentially a chemical polishing of the metal surface. The QuantumBlue technologies in every gallon of specially blended lubricant far exceeds the SAPSZ reduction problem. We blend the oils to be the optimum in protection for each application.

Man I should be getting paid for this.

[DHall1]

Coming soon to a theater near you.

EPA sniffers are coming to your house to sniff you breath. Did you know CO2 is a danger to your health?

Thats ok, we wont tax the farmers and the pigs. Global meat production produces more CO2 emissions than all the worlds engines. We all know you cant get 200 Billion a year of a pigs ass.

Lil sis better watch out




This may help you understand why this oil works better. If you do an oil analysis of the oil right out of the bottle (virgin) you will find out what the TBN, Phos and zinc levels are. I have not seen an oil analysis for this oil before. Then those number could be compared to what I know about Castrol, Castrol TXT, Mobile 1, Amsoil, Valvoline, Pennzoil and QB. I use www.blackstone-labs.com (http://www.blackstone-labs.com) to do my oil analysis.

Let's face it, oils are not what they use to be.

With the advent of the EPA Phase III, solid lifter and flat tappet cams are wiping out!!! Even if you have a roller set up, all is not well these days. Some companies are recommending diesel oils to help with the loss of Zinc, which is the anti-scuff agent that was once prevalent in all oils. This doesn't help as these oils also have been reduced in the amount of additives to comply with the new CJ 07 oil specs. All SJ, SL, and SM and later oils have been stripped of their effective additive packages for "clean air".
The EPA claims that zinc hurts emission control components namely the catalytic converter. We find this funny since most all vehicles since 1975 have had catalytic converters and emission control components. The more sophisticated emission components have been around since the early 80's. EXCEPT for a few of those brand new engines 07/08, they are virtually the same and have been for many years. What it comes down to is a desire to speed up the destruction of our vehicles so we will go out and replace them with new ones. Once again, they are going ahead and penalizing the rest of us for a few new models. (We also blend oils for new models also!)
What they have embarked on is the reduction of SAPSZ. This is Sulfated Ash, phosphorous, sulfur, and zinc. Sulfated Ash is the component that mitigates the total base number or TBN. Total Base Number is a measure of the amount of basic additives in a lubricant. High TBN is desirable in a crankcase oil to control corrosive engine wear from the acids of combustion. Phosphorous is an anti-scuff agent that is critical in protecting high RPM and High load engines from wear especially on cams, lifters, and cam followers. Zinc or Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate (ZDDP) chemically reacts with iron to prevent welding of moving metal surfaces. What this component does is essentially a chemical polishing of the metal surface. The QuantumBlue technologies in every gallon of specially blended lubricant far exceeds the SAPSZ reduction problem. We blend the oils to be the optimum in protection for each application.

Man I should be getting paid for this.

[Roger]

I've been using Motul specific 505.01

[ttrs6]

I use this. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-RS6--4.2T/Maintenance/Engine/Oil/ES258727/
Im on ecs website but it don't say if this oil is full synthetic.do you no if it is and how much do i need?

[JRS-RS6]

See http://www.audiusa.com/etc/medialib/cms4imp/audi2/aoa/company/aoa-specific.Par.0023.File.pdf 505.01 starts on Page 9 of 18

[V8weight]

Im on ecs website but it don't say if this oil is full synthetic.do you no if it is and how much do i need?
It take's about 7.5 liters for an oil change. So you'll have to buy 2 5L jugs, but every third oil change you can just buy one jug and use your left over oil.

[ben916]

I use this. http://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-RS6--4.2T/Maintenance/Engine/Oil/ES258727/

and how many liters?

5lt @$45

[V8weight]

and how many liters?

5lt @$45
What is your question exactly? It takes about 7.5 liters to change the oil. So you will need to buy two 5 liter jugs of oil. That will leave you with 2.5 liters left over, so the next oil change you will only have to buy one 5 liter jug. Sometimes the amount needed to fill the car varies, so you might have to buy 2 jugs twice in a row, sometimes only every other.

[V8weight]

The price of this stuff is all over the place. When I first started using it, a 5L jug was $35. For awhile it was up to $48, now back down to $45 for the time being. I'm in a tight spot because I've grown a recent distaste for ECS Tuning, but this stuff is over $72 a jug everywhere else on the net. What to do? I'm going to have to see what it takes to become a US Lubro Moly distributor.

Edit: Now we're talking http://www.worldimpex.com/parts/lubromoly-snythetic-motor-oil-5w-40_2008204.html

[ttrs6]

your the man v8 is that the same oil that ecs sells.do you no where to get euro pedals.

[V8weight]

your the man v8 is that the same oil that ecs sells.do you no where to get euro pedals.
Yep, that's the same oil that ECS sells, only cheaper and without the potential brain tumor of dealing with ECS.
Do you mean the aluminum RS6+ pedals? Your best bet is either oem-plus http://oemplus.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=60_72_155

Or just browse http://www.ebay.de/ and find someone who ships worldwide. I've seen full pedal sets on ebay.de for under $150

Here's one set for example http://cgi.ebay.de/Original-Audi-A6-S6-RS6-Alu-gebuerstet-Pedal-Set-NEU_W0QQitemZ390116416370QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAutote ile_Zubeh%C3%B6r?hash=item5ad4c01b72
That's about $232

[ttrs6]

yep, that's the same oil that ecs sells, only cheaper and without the potential brain tumor of dealing with ecs.
Do you mean the aluminum rs6+ pedals? Your best bet is either oem-plus http://oemplus.com/index.php?main_page=index&cpath=60_72_155

or just browse http://www.ebay.de/ and find someone who ships worldwide. I've seen full pedal sets on ebay.de for under $150

here's one set for example http://cgi.ebay.de/original-audi-a6-s6-rs6-alu-gebuerstet-pedal-set-neu_w0qqitemz390116416370qqcmdzviewitemqqptzautote ile_zubeh%c3%b6r?hash=item5ad4c01b72
that's about $232
thanx now if only i spoke german.:0: