PDA

View Full Version : Anyone have Thoughts



Conaswr
January 6th, 2010, 18:42
I was driving this morning and after a stop sign started to accelerate. Car immediately died, would crank but not turn over? Car towed to dealership. Any thoughts?

MaxRS6
January 6th, 2010, 20:07
Wait for dealer maybe? LOL j/k

My car did do that one time and it turned out to be a simple fuse. Fortuntately, the car was at a brake shop and the tech found the issue without me having to make a trip to the dealer.

It seems like someone had this once and it turned out to be a starter.

However; I certainly have no credentials to make a call. Just wanted to excercise the fingers a bit.

I wish you luck on the resolution and hopefully it will be minor.

Shoppinit
January 6th, 2010, 20:07
Fuel problem? What car? RS6 C5?

Conaswr
January 6th, 2010, 21:39
c5 rs6. I thought it will be a fun game to guess. Nothing like this has happened before other than an electronic issue with a BMW.

Wanted to find out if it had happened to anyone else on the board.

MaxRS6
January 6th, 2010, 21:50
c5 rs6. I thought it will be a fun game to guess. Nothing like this has happened before other than an electronic issue with a BMW.

Wanted to find out if it had happened to anyone else on the board.

Fun to see who wins the chicken dinner

ben916
January 6th, 2010, 22:39
fuel pump

DHall1
January 6th, 2010, 23:27
Is cranking = turning over? Just checking.


I was driving this morning and after a stop sign started to accelerate. Car immediately died, would crank but not turn over? Car towed to dealership. Any thoughts?

bruce
January 6th, 2010, 23:33
:doh: Ummnnnnn, ......... out of gas?

Conaswr
January 6th, 2010, 23:43
My lingo must be poor, turning over (trying to start)

snoopra
January 7th, 2010, 01:19
How many miles on the clock? Did it make any noises when it quit? My guesses are; fuel pump, plugged fuel filter, fuse or timing belt:(

Well, a long time ago I did experience a costly issue with a Chrysler Conquest. Car would drive to the store fine and then not start when I get back. I would pay to have it towed home, take it off the tow truck, and it would startup instantly like nothing happened. Did this tow-job a few times, and my pocket didn't appreciate it. Took it to several shops that could not find any problems, and my pocket didn't appreciate it. Then one day while detailing the engine bay, with the motor running:), I accidentally hit the fuse box (actually a linkable fuse in the box) and the car died. Turned out to be a simple wire type fuse.

Good luck and hope it's a cheap fix:thumb:

R1
January 7th, 2010, 02:47
hmn maybe battery is dying :doh:

LIRS6
January 7th, 2010, 02:59
I was driving this morning and after a stop sign started to accelerate. Car immediately died, would crank but not turn over? Car towed to dealership. Any thoughts?

At about 25k, my car did the same. Turned out to be a faulty wiring harness.

4everRS
January 7th, 2010, 03:24
Could be that the precipitor valve for the blinker fluid causing a reaction with the torque monger, thus affecting the computerized spring retainer to short against the left subframe solenoid.

Pretty sure that's the problem. ;)

MaxRS6
January 7th, 2010, 03:26
Could be that the precipitor valve for the blinker fluid causing a reaction with the torque monger, thus affecting the computerized spring retainer to short against the left subframe solenoid.

Pretty sure that's the problem.

happened to me twice.

DonS
January 7th, 2010, 03:52
You are in cold Chicago - could be freezing water in the fuel (doubtful with modern fuel systems, but what the heck - I like chicken dinners)

I had a GMC van and was heading home for Christmas. About an hour into a 2.5 hour trip, the motor chugged and died. I cranked the motor without any luck. I popped the hood and dug around and all looked good. Crank again and still nothing. So I gather my thoughts, scrap ice of the windshield and knock snow chunks off that build up on the fenders behind the tires. The van looks good and is ready for the road, so I try once more and it starts right up. Yeeha! But then 10 minutes down the road it repeats. And again, and finally I make my way to a gas station for some fresh gas and some gas additive. I don't know what that stuff does, but I assume it displaced the water in the fuel-line that keep freezing at highway speeds and melting when the heat for the motor rose and heated the fuel- line.

I hope your repair is an easy one!!

Hey Snoopra - I had a Conquest too! Fun car, but mine was always in the shop. I always timed a major repair with an oil change and usually another major one between changes. The warranty replaced over $12 in work in a 6 month period. I still loved the car as it was quite rare in Madison, WI. You must have been a rock-star on the island!

Chicken dinner is going to R1 - the cold killed your battery...

4everRS
January 7th, 2010, 04:24
Chicken dinner is going to R1 - the cold killed your battery...

Doubt it, if it is turning over. As DHall would say, KISS. Keep it simple st***d. (Really your not stupid, that's just the expression) Getting to basics, 3 things need to happen for an engine to run. Air, Spark and Fuel. Surely your getting air, so fuel or spark.

Vapor lock? usually happens in hot weather. hmmm not likely.

Fuel condensing on cold cylinder walls? probably not if the car had already been running for a while.

Fuel blockage, could be.

Ignition system - wouldn't rule it out. As it stopped all at once, this should be something simple like a ground or fuse.

Pray its not the t-belt as snoopra said.

If Bruce is right, you may want to just forget this thread ever happened.

DonS
January 7th, 2010, 04:30
Right, not battery if cranking without a jump. Fingers crossed that your timing belt is 100%.

JRS-RS6
January 7th, 2010, 04:48
Flux Capacitor.

I like 4everRS's comments but one other thing I can think of needs to happen -- exhaust. If one of the cats is fully plugged this could possibly stop the engine. Check for a potatoes in all four tail pipes.

When it died were there any load noises? Any thing leading up to this happening -- sounds, lose of power, idiot lights? More information would be helpful.

My thought on the timing belt is that this is an engine where the cylinders would hit the valves if just the crankshaft is turning. I would think it would not crank over (at least not very far before hitting something).

JRS-RS6
January 7th, 2010, 05:41
Just as an adder I knew this gal who had a hopped up '68 Cougar and it wouldn't start. She pumped the gas and turned the key, pumped the gas and turned the key.... It was very cold that day too.

So her brother; still not sober from the night before, went out to check it out. He jumped the connections on the starter solenoid on the passengers side firewall and it started right up.

Immediately -- it burned rubber against the curb for about 10 seconds (both tires traction locker rear), crossed the front lawn, and plowed into their living room.

Seems she had it in drive.

Shoppinit
January 7th, 2010, 10:42
Hehe. I've scratched my head like an idiot a couple of times and then realised it won't start because it's in drive... Not before a couple of seconds of panic when you think the car is broke.

For the OP problem, I'm favouring fuel pump relay / fuse. Assuming the OP isn't a complete muppet here and that the car hasn't run out of gas.

Timing belt was a good call. I hope it's not that, but it sounds plausible.

Not battery or starter because it's cranking.

shoeboxjoe
January 7th, 2010, 16:16
If it were out of gas i would suspect it would stumble and sputter for a while before actually dying. I'd guess an electrical problem like a bad fuse/relay or faulty sensor. In my earlier turbo Ford days I would go all in with a bad TFI though :)

Conaswr
January 7th, 2010, 19:26
Well, first update was a blown fuse for the injectors. But as soon as replaced would blow the fuse again. They are now looking at the wiring harness for shorts. More to follow.

MaxRS6
January 7th, 2010, 19:34
Well, first update was a blown fuse for the injectors. But as soon as replaced would blow the fuse again. They are now looking at the wiring harness for shorts. More to follow.

it is just a fuse- and the techs just need some more billable time so they will "investigate/repair" further. I'm certainly not accusing or saying your techs fall into this category.

I'm not sure how the "layman" is suppose to verify these types of service issues other than having a great relationship with their service providers. However; even that is not alway reliable as they may appear nice and gooey on the outside, with the heart of the devil on the inside.

As I am prone to tell clients and my kid, the bad guys don't wear green horns or it would be much easier to spot them. It is always the one the owner trusts most that ends up being "the thief". It also holds true that normally the un-trusted ones don't have access to "pilfer/cheat". :nono:

I wish you a speedy recovery

Conaswr
January 7th, 2010, 19:39
As far as the tech, I agree. Actually this is the last chance for this dealer, if things are not smooth I will never go back. I told the guy, I have the Platinum Fidelity warranty, please just fix it.

MaxRS6
January 7th, 2010, 19:46
As far as the tech, I agree. Actually this is the last chance for this dealer, if things are not smooth I will never go back. I told the guy, I have the Platinum Fidelity warranty, please just fix it.

service as independent inspectors normally inspect/approve large repairs. And- if it was "made-up" work at least it is spread to the insurance companies/customers paying for warranties. :)

With any luck they'll have you back in your "sleeper" (pardon the pun but I couldn't resist) soon.

DHall1
January 7th, 2010, 21:31
Bad guys dont have green horns.

Bad girls do have green horns.

Got it. :doh:




it is just a fuse- and the techs just need some more billable time so they will "investigate/repair" further. I'm certainly not accusing or saying your techs fall into this category.

I'm not sure how the "layman" is suppose to verify these types of service issues other than having a great relationship with their service providers. However; even that is not alway reliable as they may appear nice and gooey on the outside, with the heart of the devil on the inside.

As I am prone to tell clients and my kid, the bad guys don't wear green horns or it would be much easier to spot them. It is always the one the owner trusts most that ends up being "the thief". It also holds true that normally the un-trusted ones don't have access to "pilfer/cheat". :nono:

I wish you a speedy recovery

MaxRS6
January 7th, 2010, 21:59
Bad guys dont have green horns.

Bad girls do have green horns.

Got it. :doh:

leprechaun ladies..wowza. Now get back to lining up putts- or just tell the golf partners I said yours was "good/gimme" for anything inside 30 feet.

http://www.3wishes.com/images/luckycharm-l.jpg

Conaswr
January 8th, 2010, 15:43
Will see..... First try some sort of recirc valve...three day wait for part.

Conaswr
January 19th, 2010, 00:04
Well, car started again before replacement of part...Two days of test driving. Will not blow fuse again. They replaced the part anyway. Should I feel uneasy about driving the car? I know once I get it back gremlins will reappear, but its not showing any codes etc.

MaxRS6
January 19th, 2010, 03:47
It is not going to throw a code sitting at the tech's shop. I say pick it up and drive it like you stole it. Either the code will pop back up and they can begin their work again to diagnose and add to their kid's college fund, or you'll have a dang good time driving the beast again.

Otherwise, some tech may "drive it like they stole it" while they test drive your car. Next thing you know, they'll put it in a ditch or have some sort of mishap as they claim "I was only trying to help" and the speedo stuck at 165 from the mishap- LOL

vangelis
January 19th, 2010, 06:25
Timing belt was a good call. I hope it's not that, but it sounds plausible.



Is our cars equipped with a safety incase timing belt get damaged? I mean what will happen to the engine and will it be an easy repair? hope it won't happen to anyone, but I just want to know for my information.

JRS-RS6
January 19th, 2010, 06:28
Big ba da boom. No Safety. If the cams stop moving (belt breaks or roller bearing gives out) and the crank doesn't than valves will hit pistons -- not pretty.

vangelis
January 19th, 2010, 06:37
God!! that is serious.

Aronis
January 19th, 2010, 14:04
Wire harness shorts don't just happen out of the blue. It requires some kind of mechanical damage to the wire perhaps as a result of a misplaced hand during a prior repair.

Every time I have work done on my car I worry about what damage was done. A wire loose here, a tube pulled off there. Its a very tight working space under the RS6 hood and things get dislodged by accident.

The key is that you will never get them to admit to such a mishap.

After the repair "driving like you stole it" is foolish, drive normally and keep your eyes on things.

Mike

MaxRS6
January 19th, 2010, 14:08
Wire harness shorts don't just happen out of the blue. It requires some kind of mechanical damage to the wire perhaps as a result of a misplaced hand during a prior repair.

Every time I have work done on my car I worry about what damage was done. A wire loose here, a tube pulled off there. Its a very tight working space under the RS6 hood and things get dislodged by accident.

The key is that you will never get them to admit to such a mishap.

After the repair "driving like you stole it" is foolish, drive normally and keep your eyes on things.

Mike

I agree about the driving it normally- I meant it with "tongue in cheek" but must have got lost in translation. However; it is certainly a risk that techs will take cars for "joy rides" while "testing" as has been documented many times.

Conaswr
January 19th, 2010, 16:35
Drove to the office today, with a couple of spare fuses for #32 fuse slot. Having your car just shut off while driving is a scary feeling. I doubt it fixed itself, but we will see...

DHall1
January 19th, 2010, 16:50
Were there any codes stored in ecu? If you had any injector wiring short to ground....blown fuse but it should have left a code.

My car had to have a wiring harness repair at very low mileage...I think it was 8k. It only left a code and rough performance but could have been a similar problem to yours.




Well, first update was a blown fuse for the injectors. But as soon as replaced would blow the fuse again. They are now looking at the wiring harness for shorts. More to follow.

Conaswr
January 19th, 2010, 16:51
No codes, seems to be running fine. I just dont want to be driving on the highway at speed and all of a sudden have the car shut off.

MaxRS6
January 19th, 2010, 16:52
Drove to the office today, with a couple of spare fuses for #32 fuse slot. Having your car just shut off while driving is a scary feeling. I doubt it fixed itself, but we will see...

I have found it is best to keep various extra fuses in the car (and in my boat). You never know when one will go out- and it will always happen in BFE or at an inopportune time.

I hope they got your issue resolved. I understand and feel that uneasy feeling almost every time I pick it up from service.

ttboost
January 19th, 2010, 17:52
Yeah that stinks. Electrical problem don't just go away. Sometimes they manifest themselves as other problem...Do your best to isolate the problem instead of paying the dealer for hours and hours and hours and hours and hours and....