DRC Recall done

[sheatisdale]

I had the DRC recall done and it appears that I was lucky. I got the car back and it was 1/4 inch higher front and back. I checked the tires and they had filled them to 40 psi so I am guessing that is the reason.

They found cracked upper control arm bushings (warranty covered) and cracked cv boots (not warranty covered) when they did the work. They showed me the cv boots before they had my loaner car available which was pretty nice.

[hahnmgh63]

What do you normally run in your tires? My Goodyears are 51psi max and I normally run 40 psi in them. Even if you are running 36psi like Audi recommended with the original tires that wouldn't make any meaureable height difference. Check your tires as newer tires today are designed for higher pressures. They are designed for lower rolling resistance (MPG). I'd say a good rule of thumb is about 8 to 10psi less than max listed, maybe others will pipe in.

[snoopra]

Good advise. I run 46psi all around.

[GEN XER]

I had the DRC recall done and it appears that I was lucky. I got the car back and it was 1/4 inch higher front and back. I checked the tires and they had filled them to 40 psi so I am guessing that is the reason.

They found cracked upper control arm bushings (warranty covered) and cracked cv boots (not warranty covered) when they did the work. They showed me the cv boots before they had my loaner car available which was pretty nice.

If you are saying the distance between the top of tire and the bottom of the fender is 1/4" higher then you may have an issue with the DRC repair itself. They may have done the fix incorrectly and left air in the system. More than likely though with just a 1/4" it may just need to settle.

[sheatisdale]

Thanks all. I have some crappy sumitomo tires on here now and I'm not sure what thier PSI should be off the top of my head. I'll have to check tomorrow.

The measurement was from floor to bottom of fender.

[GEN XER]

Thanks all. I have some crappy sumitomo tires on here now and I'm not sure what thier PSI should be off the top of my head. I'll have to check tomorrow.

The measurement was from floor to bottom of fender.

Give it a few days to settle and re-check. Ensure tire psi is the same on the re-check.

[RS6-4dr911]

If you are saying the distance between the top of tire and the bottom of the fender is 1/4" higher then you may have an issue with the DRC repair itself. They may have done the fix incorrectly and left air in the system. More than likely though with just a 1/4" it may just need to settle.

I disagree with your analysis. If the shocks had leaked the system pressure would have been low, letting the car sit lower. Regardless, it's not whether your car sits higher or lower than before, it's where it sits compared to the standard. Check previous posts, someone listed the factory spec's, but in general, IIRC, most on here seem to be sitting at 14.25-14.75 with the front 1/8-1/4 lower than the rear.


And sheatisdale (http://rs6.com/forum/member.php?u=14548), easy on the Sumitomo's, I'll admit they're not quite as grippy as the PS2's but I've been very happy with them - low noise, excellent grip dry or wet, wearing evenly and well, and about 60% the cost of PS2's. Just for those that care about tire feedback.

[GEN XER]

I disagree with your analysis. If the shocks had leaked the system pressure would have been low, letting the car sit lower. Regardless, it's not whether your car sits higher or lower than before, it's where it sits compared to the standard. Check previous posts, someone listed the factory spec's, but in general, IIRC, most on here seem to be sitting at 14.25-14.75 with the front 1/8-1/4 lower than the rear.


And sheatisdale (http://rs6.com/forum/member.php?u=14548), easy on the Sumitomo's, I'll admit they're not quite as grippy as the PS2's but I've been very happy with them - low noise, excellent grip dry or wet, wearing evenly and well, and about 60% the cost of PS2's. Just for those that care about tire feedback.

Ahh yes. I was not thinking of comparing it to the standard.

[sheatisdale]

Mine measured 25.5" front and 26.5" rear floor to
bottom of fender before the DRC was done.

They told me mine was slightly leaking from the right front only.

[GEN XER]

Mine measured 25.5" front and 26.5" rear floor to
bottom of fender before the DRC was done.

They told me mine was slightly leaking from the right front only.

I cant remember where Dave talked about this, but I think the 14.25-14.75 is from the bottom of the fender to the center of the wheel. Ill have to research.

[Aronis]

Hi,

I measured mine and posted a few months ago, If I recall it was 14.25 inches.
The tire pressure is interesting. They set mine to 30 PSI! and the ride was poor. I thought the DRC repair had not improved anything but after bringing the pressure back up to 46-48 where I keep it, it was better.

I'll have to see what the ride is like after a cold winter and getting the snows off!

Mike

[sheatisdale]

I measured mine to the center of the wheel and it was about 14.25" in the front and 15.5" in the rear.

[GEN XER]

I measured mine to the center of the wheel and it was about 14.25" in the front and 15.5" in the rear.

My measurements are the same on the front and 15.25 rear.

[DHall1]

Guys,

You forgot already. How many threads have we had on this?

14.25 average for front.
14.5 average for rear.

Center cap to fender lip

If your rear is higher...release and retorque your rear suspension with weight on the rear.




My measurements are the same on the front and 15.25 rear.

[GEN XER]

Guys,

You forgot already. How many threads have we had on this?

14.25 average for front.
14.5 average for rear.

Center cap to fender lip

If your rear is higher...release and retorque your rear suspension with weight on the rear.

Did we discuss a technique for this? Did we have a thread on this?

[vangelis]

Guys,

You forgot already. How many threads have we had on this?

14.25 average for front.
14.5 average for rear.

Center cap to fender lip

If your rear is higher...release and retorque your rear suspension with weight on the rear.

I've got my car after DRC job and it is done perfectly 1000% sure with brand new shocks and CVs with the latest tool and by a german tech who is mastering DRC jobs. But the car still little high from the rear, so i need to know the details or technique on how to release and retorque the rear suspension with weight on the rear??

[DHall1]

put car on alignment rack or lift that keeps tires on ramps. Key is to keep vehicle weight on the rear suspension.

go to the rear suspension arms and back off all the mount points for the bushings.

bounce car or drive it around the block.

put back on alignment rack and retorque all the control arm mounts.

[DonS]

Yep, the technique DHall1 explained above dropped my rear almost 1/2" to within the Audi spec.

[StevieG.]

:confused:Greetings from Atlanta area - had the DRC recall done and have had nothing but trouble since. About a week after the install, the right rear sounded like the shock had no fluid in it, really banging around when making right turns. Diagnosis was leaking front left shock. Since then, I am getting suspension noise from both back and the front right, and the situation is deteriorating. Not being overly technical, it feels and sounds like there is not enough fluid in the shocks, or they are not very tightly connected. Very unhappy - any thoughts on this one?

[RS6-4dr911]

Yeah, your dealer/tech is a hack.

This should be, as I'm sure you were expecting, a plug and play if they will only follow the flippin' instructions.

Issues to watch out for in addition: leaving suspension / ride height sensors disconnected, sway bars disconnected, bushings mis-installed so metal-to-metal contact happens in motion, suspension tightened while on the lift and wheels hanging, on and on. Search for ride height before their next attempt, and tell them if it's any higher than that, they're going to re-work it.

Atlanta certainly is big enough to have someone that knows wtf he's doing. I think Copper is from there, see if you find him for a reference.

[DHall1]

^^ what he said +1000

Stevie...if you have one of these cars you found the right forum. There are many on this list that know more about the car than all the dealers in the country.

We dont mess around...and we dont take $hit from anyone

http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/03RSTT/RS6pics/IMG_2795.jpg?t=1265477639

[StevieG.]

Appreciate any guidance here - my dealer is Nalley in Roswell Georgia. Thanks for the heads up on Copper, I just sent him a message asking about his status since his last fix.

I think they only replaced the leaking front left after it failed. Reading the whole thread here it looks like they should have replaced the right rear at a minimum at the same time.

[DHall1]

Correct.

And you need to be sure the dealer is using the latest special tool. The tool has a manual pump device that bleeds all the air from the lines/shocks as you pressure up the system. Ask to see the tool or ask that it is the tool with the manual pumping device.

If the dealer did not know to replace both struts...then they dont have a clue. Time to call Audi tech assist.


Appreciate any guidance here - my dealer is Nalley in Roswell Georgia. Thanks for the heads up on Copper, I just sent him a message asking about his status since his last fix.

I think they only replaced the leaking front left after it failed. Reading the whole thread here it looks like they should have replaced the right rear at a minimum at the same time.

[vangelis]

If the dealer did not know to replace both struts...then they dont have a clue. Time to call Audi tech assist.

Hi Dave, sorry for a stupid question but can you please post any photo showing how this part "struts" looks like?

[V8weight]

Hi Dave, sorry for a stupid question but can you please post any photo showing how this part "struts" looks like?
The "struts" are simply the shock absorbers, or dampeners themselves.

[vangelis]

The "struts" are simply the shock absorbers, or dampeners themselves.

Oh, then I'm safe, I have 4x of them replaced along with the 2x CVs.

[StevieG.]

Really appreciate the comments - I have consolidated the postings in case this is useful for anyone having problems with the DRC recall.

Latest special tool has a manual pump device that bleeds all the air from the lines/shocks as system is pressured up. Verify that your mechanic has the tool with the manual pumping device.

Issues to watch out for:
Leaving suspension / ride height sensors disconnected
Sway bars disconnected
Bushings mis-installed so metal-to-metal contact happens in motion
Suspension tightened while on the lift and wheels hanging

Ride height: 14.25" front / 14.5" rear Center cap to fender lip
If rear is higher: release and retorque rear suspension with weight on the rear.
Put car on alignment rack or lift that keeps tires on ramps. Key is to keep vehicle weight on the rear suspension.
Go to the rear suspension arms and back off all the mount points for the bushings.
Bounce car or drive it around the block.
Put back on alignment rack and retorque all the control arm mounts.

Alignment is required after suspension repairs / part replacements.

Your receipt should have the following:

J4 RECALL
CAUSE: 43A8
40902099 RS6 SHOCK RECALL
143 WAR3
1 4B3-413-031-R SHOCKABSOR
1 4B3-413-032-B SHOCKABSOR
1 4B3-513-031-P GASSHOCKAB
1 4B3-513-032-B GASSHOCKAB
2 4FO-412-137 BOOT
2 4BO-512-137-C BOOT
4 N-101-064-02 NUT
2 N-906-350-01 NUT
2 N-021-198-4 NUT
4 N-013-811-5 WASHER
2 G-052-731-A2 HYDR. OIL

Also a Claim Type and Auth Code for the work. <!--EndFragment-->

[DHall1]

And dont forget. If 1 struts leaks out and you drive the car at all.....then both struts on that circuit will need to be replaced. Having run the fluid out ruins each strut on that circuit.

RF+LR

LF+RR

[StevieG.]

So I dropped my car off at the dealer this morning, and the service advisor stated that they didnt know that the struts had to be replaced in pairs. He also said that the looseness i was experiencing was from cracked sway bar bushings, that weren't seen when I had the car in in September for the warrantly DRC repair, nor in December when the RF strut was replaced. I asked him to call Audi to make sure they knew the procedure, because they were only going to replace one again. Swaybar bushings 225.00.....

From the item list above, all were replaced except for the 4 N-013-811-5 WASHER - he stated that they were likely replaced and just not on the list. Know what these items are for?

Does anyone have a link to the current repair procedure document?

[DHall1]

225 dollar sway bar bushings? NOT

If you had all the fluid leak out of any strut....that would mean that the other strut on that circuit is junk.

Now, if you had a slight seep of fluid from one of the struts and you caught it before all the fluid leaked out....you can replace just the one strut.

IF and only IF you have the correct special tool to bleed and repressure the system.

225 dollar sway bar bushings. OMG you could have purchased brand new Hotchkis sway bars and bushings for 350. crap

[ben916]

So I dropped my car off at the dealer this morning, and the service advisor stated that they didnt know that the struts had to be replaced in pairs. He also said that the looseness i was experiencing was from cracked sway bar bushings, that weren't seen when I had the car in in September for the warrantly DRC repair, nor in December when the RF strut was replaced. I asked him to call Audi to make sure they knew the procedure, because they were only going to replace one again. Swaybar bushings 225.00.....

From the item list above, all were replaced except for the 4 N-013-811-5 WASHER - he stated that they were likely replaced and just not on the list. Know what these items are for?

Does anyone have a link to the current repair procedure document?

Sounds like THEY need to pay for it...

[StevieG.]

Bushings replaced, one strut replaced....."tech noticed cord showing right front tire - we'd be happy to quote tires and an alignment". It doesn't look like they aligned it when the struts were replaced.

So now I need new tires - any recommendations? I live in Atlanta, we get more rain than snow (except today :) )

[Hy Octane]

Contact Audi customer service and let em have it..

[skribe]

Bushings replaced, one strut replaced....."tech noticed cord showing right front tire - we'd be happy to quote tires and an alignment". It doesn't look like they aligned it when the struts were replaced.

So now I need new tires - any recommendations? I live in Atlanta, we get more rain than snow (except today :) )

Umm, dude. You're driving around an RS6 with bare cord? :doh:

Go to tirerack.com. There is user-generated feedback and objective ratings, and very fair prices, great CS. Then have a good local indy tire shop mount 'em for you after the UPS man drops em off.

Tires are so subjective... I've had good experiences with Dunlops, Yokahamas, and Pirellis...

I put 255 40 19 Bridgestone Pole Positions on the RS6, because they are good in the wet and very quiet for the width, that was a priority for the way I use the car right now. Pretty happy with them.

Although Bridgestone's superbowl commercials did suck hairy beanbag.

[StevieG.]

Currently driving the dealer's brand new A6 :)

The RS6 is my daily driver, mostly back and forth to work, errands etc., and occasionally winding it out to smoke Mercedes and Beemies.

[DHall1]

conti has the new extreme DW. Good price for 200s

The PS2 Mich is the top dog but its 300+ea

[Hy Octane]

Guys,

You forgot already. How many threads have we had on this?

14.25 average for front.
14.5 average for rear.

Center cap to fender lip

If your rear is higher...release and retorque your rear suspension with weight on the rear.

Dave,,..
Where did you get these ride heights for our cars from?
Can you post a reference?
Thanx.

[DonS]

Dave is spot on. I called AoA and they claimed not to have a spec for our US cars. However, they said the European cars should measure 36.0cm +\- 1cm (13.75-14.57") from fender to center of the wheel (yes, that is the same for all four corners of the car). I assume the US and Euro cars are the same. For sure US wouldn't be lower...

I posted this info here and no one on the forum challenged it: http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19768&highlight=ride+height+aoa

[DHall1]

Thanks for that doc Don.

I rechecked mine this last weekend.

Fronts just a tick over 14in
Rears 14 3/8in

I like it.

Pat made the comment that my car is the best sitting stock DRC car he has seen. I like it just the way it is.

[Hy Octane]

Thanx Don. Thats what I was looking for..
Its just another way to prove my rep dosent know anything when he claims my car is 'at specs' with the DRC. They only check the pressure and if its between 13-16 bar they say its fine. I'm about ready to call my buddy at Car and Driver, a certain Mr. DeLorenzo, and let him publish the entire DRC story as told from we the customers point of view.. With the trouble Toyota is going thru for their unintended acceleration coverup, this would be a perfect time to kneecap Audi for their handling of the DRC debacle.. How quickly they have forgotten...

[DonS]

Dave: The only way my RS6 will lower to your glorious ride height would be to fill the car with women. They'd have to be fatties, so I guess I'll stick with what I have...

[ben916]

Thanx Don. Thats what I was looking for..
Its just another way to prove my rep dosent know anything when he claims my car is 'at specs' with the DRC. They only check the pressure and if its between 13-16 bar they say its fine. I'm about ready to call my buddy at Car and Driver, a certain Mr. DeLorenzo, and let him publish the entire DRC story as told from we the customers point of view.. With the trouble Toyota is going thru for their unintended acceleration coverup, this would be a perfect time to kneecap Audi for their handling of the DRC debacle.. How quickly they have forgotten...

OOO!!!!! I would pay for that issue of C&D!!

And to top it off, there is this forum for proof AND records of it on everyone's VIN in ELSAWIN... Kinda hard to deny your own data record keeping...

[JRS-RS6]

Thanks for that doc Don.

I rechecked mine this last weekend.

Fronts just a tick over 14in
Rears 14 3/8in

I like it.

Pat made the comment that my car is the best sitting stock DRC car he has seen. I like it just the way it is.

Now I'm jealous! He must say that to all the Stock DRCs he meets.

Fronts just a tick over 14in
Rears 14 3/8in

Just measured.

[V8weight]

Now I'm jealous! He must say that to all the Stock DRCs he meets.

Fronts just a tick over 14in
Rears 14 3/8in

Just measured.
What can I say? I know rear end that's right within spec when I see one.

[JRS-RS6]

Looks like the Craigslisting for the "other" car up here was Flagged for removal.

I got my VAG-COM just a couple minutes ago unfortunately this morning my Laptop bit it so I am waiting for that to turn around now.

[DHall1]

We can make that happen. Max! Go get lil sis and some of her friends and make a road trip up to WI.

Oh $hit! Don look out!!!! They are already on their way.

http://i827.photobucket.com/albums/zz195/MaxRS6/LilsisonRv1.jpg?t=1266191816




Dave: The only way my RS6 will lower to your glorious ride height would be to fill the car with women. They'd have to be fatties, so I guess I'll stick with what I have...

[DHall1]

IMHO the main reason why ride heights have been all over the place is the simple fact that AoA techs are not taking the time to settle the suspension after filling up the pressure lines and bleed.

They are putting torque to all the control arms before the car is back down on the ground to settle all the bushings.

I cant fault Audi Germany for some idjuits over here that dont take their time to do the job right.

Same reason Pat and I performed timing belt services on our own cars. 6000 beer stimulus weekend and stick it to the local stealers.


Thanx Don. Thats what I was looking for..
Its just another way to prove my rep dosent know anything when he claims my car is 'at specs' with the DRC. They only check the pressure and if its between 13-16 bar they say its fine. I'm about ready to call my buddy at Car and Driver, a certain Mr. DeLorenzo, and let him publish the entire DRC story as told from we the customers point of view.. With the trouble Toyota is going thru for their unintended acceleration coverup, this would be a perfect time to kneecap Audi for their handling of the DRC debacle.. How quickly they have forgotten...

[ben916]

Dave is spot on. I called AoA and they claimed not to have a spec for our US cars. However, they said the European cars should measure 36.0cm +\- 1cm (13.75-14.57") from fender to center of the wheel (yes, that is the same for all four corners of the car). I assume the US and Euro cars are the same. For sure US wouldn't be lower...

I posted this info here and no one on the forum challenged it: http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19768&highlight=ride+height+aoa


Ok, Who is up for a good laugh???

Fronts 14" (expected)
Rears 15" ($hithead!!!)

I feel like them Duke Boys done rascalled me again!

[DHall1]

I hate to say I told ya.

http://i950.photobucket.com/albums/ad348/03RSTT/RS6pics/im_with_shit_head_tshirt-p235710280.jpg

No big deal. Just get the car up on an alignment rack and loosen the rear control arm bolts. lower and bounce....then raise with the load on the wheels and retorque.

done


Ok, Who is up for a good laugh???

Fronts 14" (expected)
Rears 15" ($hithead!!!)

I feel like them Duke Boys done rascalled me again!

[Benman]

Instead of starting yet another DRC thread.. having mine redone. Not having any expectations. ;) While in, replacing the control arm bushings. Our shop gets whole sale parts prices and I will only have to poney up .5 hours for labor. Sounded good to me...

Ben

[ben916]

Instead of starting yet another DRC thread.. having mine redone. Not having any expectations. ;) While in, replacing the control arm bushings. Our shop gets whole sale parts prices and I will only have to poney up .5 hours for labor. Sounded good to me...

Ben

Any other goodies to go on while it is in the air????

[Benman]

Any other goodies to go on while it is in the air???? Nah, I'm a whoosie. ;) ONE day I'll do an upgrade...

[4everRS]

Benman, Please post part #'s for bushings if possible.

[Benman]

Absolutely, dealer will be calling me today so will post. :)

Ben

[Benman]

FAX from dealer says Part#: BDO-407-515-C and each part is listed at $29.18

[ben916]

FAX from dealer says Part#: BDO-407-515-C and each part is listed at $29.18

Hoehn or Clymer did the work?

[Benman]

Unfortunately no, it was done at Walter's in Riverside while the DRC was getting done. I pick it up tonight.

[micdee]

:hey: Ladies and Gents,

I have been member of this forum for some years as I owned a S6 (build 1999) for a couple of years and recently bought myself a RS6 (2003)
I live in the Netherlands, that is Europe. (so excuse me for my language ;-) )
Now I found out that my DRC is not what it supposed to be.
So I am in the decision period what to do: repair of the DRC or replacing the entire DRC for shocks and springs.

I did try a search action on DRC and replacement but thus far all I read is that the DRC kind of uhmmm is of poor quality and needed to be repaired.
Also that some of you replaced the DRC with a complete set: KW set (variant 3) and also H&R, but with the latter I think to remember they used H&R springs to replace the OEM springs.

So I'm calling in your help about which mileage or km's you made with the new DRC struts installed before you needed to replace them again.

What mileage did you do with the after market shocks and springs like the KW v3.

Does the "rideability" of the RS6 change completely with the after market set.

And when I decide to do the repair is it better to renew all 4 of the struts at the same time?
I know the right rear is leaking som oil (according to the Audi engineer the leakage was not a problem. Uh huh?!?! Now I know better)
May be a better question is what should I have repaired of the DRC? (I do not know if there was some sort of recall action by Audi in Europe and if this Audi has been back for it; it is not in that "service-thing" I got with the RS6)
Thank you for any help as I could not find any on the Duth fora/forums/forea?!?! :vhmmm:

[micdee]

Hmmm ok after my post I found another thread:

DRC vs Bilstein / Koni (http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/19817-DRC-vs-Bilstein-Koni-Struts.?highlight=drc+replace)

So I guess I will continue my post in that more suitable thread. (maybe a mod can shift my post to that thread).

thank you.

[V8weight]

This is just my personal opinion and experience, but I would just remove your DRC system and go the coil over route. I have the KW V3's and have done about 35k miles on them with no problems. The Kw's right out of the box offer a comparable ride to the DRC, but I have mine set a little firmer. If I were you, I would look into the H&R coil over setup, as it should be available to you over in Europe (we can't get them here for the RS6). The H&R's are much cheaper than the KW's, and I've read that the ride is more compliant.

[V8weight]

Also, I said it in that thread, and I'll say it again, I don't like the idea of installing a Koni shock and H&R spring combo on an RS6. That setup is not DOT or TUV approved for the car, and I would assume you have yearly inspections over there. I don't think it will pass with that set up.

[hahnmgh63]

Micdee, I would check with the dealer to see if your car has had recent DRC work done, how many miles on the car? There was a complete DRC recall in North America but I'm not sure about Europe? Maybe another European member could chime in. Since Netherlands is part of the European Union I would think Audi would have to treat all members the same if there is a recall going on over there.
As for aftermarket solutions, known ones are KW V3's, H&R, Bilsteing, and Ohlins. I can recommend the KW's as that is the route I went with and I haven't heard of any complaints about the KW's or the H&R's. I have heard good & bad about the Bilstein & the Ohlins. H&R also offer a spring replacement for the stock factory DRC springs which lower the car a little (2c.m.) and increase the spring rate slightly. These springs go over the stock DRC so you may still end up with DRC problems.
Overall, a working DRC is a good driving system with little compromise in ride & handling. I didn't like it mainly for reliability and the ride height. A good aftermarket suspension that is fully adjustable can do better on the track but then it will be much more harsh on the street, you can soften it up a little for better (not as quite as good as a good DRC) street ride while still being good in the performance role. My KW's make the car handle better than the DRC was but are a little harsher on rough roads, most of my roads are pretty good around here but if they weren't I may have stayed with the DRC and worked with the dealer to get the ride height better, at least while it was still on warranty. Let us know what you find out and decide, I'm sure some other members will chime in too. Welcome to the list.

[micdee]

Thank you for your replies.

As I already said I found the other thread which I think fits better to my questions, so I copied and pasted my questions and your replies in there and will continue in that thread.