Alternator replacement

[got boost]

Hey guys, I had the thrilling experience of losing voltage the other day. While driving home the other night the instrument cluster got dim, the car started running like shit and every icon on the dash lit up with the volt gauge showing a little over 8. Barely got the car to the house. I plugged in to get codes, all low voltage codes. Out of her 86,xxx tour of duty this is the first time she almost left me stranded. Anyway, I went ahead and replaced the original battery and alternator and all is now well.

I'm not a big DIY'r, brakes/oil/plugs are about it. So I had a friend relpace the alternator and I "helped". It was a lot easier than I had expected and maybe these pics will be of use to another member. I have never tried to post a DIY, so bear with me.


Beginning with the removal of the belly pan. The alternator was able to be finessed out of its place by removing the serpentine belt from the pulley, removing the two oil lines originating from the oil filter location, and removing the intercooler hose. After that there are two hex bolts to the front (bumper side) of the alternator to be removed ( I believe they were 6mm) And there were two wires to be removed from the rear of the alternator, one a plug type connection the other was held on by a nut.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a37/ri55/alt1.jpg

^^ The IC hose to remove and brackets to remove.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a37/ri55/alt2.jpg
^ Here is one of the hex type bolts on the alternator the other is towards the top of the alternator (couldnt get a good pic of that one)


http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a37/ri55/alt3.jpg
^ Here is the plug to remove and the other wire to remove is located above it (also hard to get a pic)



http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a37/ri55/alt4.jpg

[got boost]

The last pic is of re-installing one of the oil lines, to get a better perspective.

Please, anyone feel free to correct or add comment.

[gooseleg]

Thanks, saved it just in case.

[DHall1]

Nice,

Where did you get the reman alt?

$$

[got boost]

I got the parts from stealership....

Battery part# 000-915-105-DL-DSP
List price $190.00

Generator part# 077-903-015-RX
List price $675.00 - $200 for core.

Without much haggling I was able to get 20% off the list price. Ended up being $532.00 total for battery and generator.

The generator does not come with the pulley, so save the old one. And I had to add about a half liter of oil as a result of removing the oil lines.

[steve]

Nice write-up!

but i'd start with disconnecting the battery next time, safety first!

[MJR964]

Hey "got boost", did you have to pull the front bumper for this? I've got the battery light on and the voltage dipping to around 9V,(autozone checked their 18 month old battery and said it was fine.). Two shops I've talked to mentioned having to put the front end into "service position" for this, but it looks like you did it without pulling anything but the IC hose and the oil tubes. Also, did you check into the $184 Bosch alternator that's out there? I don't know what difference there is between that and the audi alternator, but IF it fits, I might go with that.

[DHall1]

check with genuinevwaudiparts.com

they have the best Audi parts prices. You will need the Audi pn and you just plug in the number for a price. The auto lookup does not have RS6


Hey "got boost", did you have to pull the front bumper for this? I've got the battery light on and the voltage dipping to around 9V,(autozone checked their 18 month old battery and said it was fine.). Two shops I've talked to mentioned having to put the front end into "service position" for this, but it looks like you did it without pulling anything but the IC hose and the oil tubes. Also, did you check into the $184 Bosch alternator that's out there? I don't know what difference there is between that and the audi alternator, but IF it fits, I might go with that.

[Elevens]

Appreciate the Info got boost. Did the same thing on the A6 2.7t and had to put the front into service position. Nice to know that this can be done on the RS without bumper removal. Such info is invaluable. Thanks....

[got boost]

Correct, the front bumper does not need to move.

Having it on a lift helps.

[svir]

I am returning this thread from the dead with hopes that someone could help me.

I am following Got Boost's instructions, but I am stuck when it comes to the removal of the oil lines on the filter side. I cannot get enough room to get in there.

Any help would be much appreciated,

Thanks in advance guys

[svir]

I managed to remove all of the bolts as well as the oil lines.

The only problem now is how to finess the alternator out?
I've going at it for the past hour and if anybody knows how to do it, please share.

Thanks much

[4everRS]

So I just spend the better part of an afternoon tearing the alternator out of my car. Last night I went out to do a couple logs for fun, and I noticed the battery light came on. Wasn't real surprised as I've been noticing random voltage reading for the last couple months.

Anyway, I am going to try to have it rebuilt and see how well it does. There is a good auto-electrical shop in another city near me. I'm afraid they may not have the voltage regulator on hand and I am looking for help from the Forum to find one.

Mark, I know your a guru on find parts, maybe you already know.

It's a Bosch. Numbers on it show:

BR14-MO
F 00M 145 247

[hahnmgh63]

Audi part # for the Alternator is 077903015R (http://javascript<b></b>:;) add a 'X' after the 'R' to find rebuilt which may be all that is available. The voltage regulator is 077903803A (http://javascript<b></b>:;) I haven't found anyone to have a cheaper price on the Regulator than Genuine, I thought that using the Bosch Part # I would be able to find it cheaper but the only cheaper ones I found were aftermarket replacements, not Bosch. Another thing, someone mentioned rebuilding the Regulator to fix bad Diodes, the Diodes are not in the Regulator but are in the other plastic housing bolted onto the back of the Alternator.

[JSRS6]

Wish I'd known about this a few years ago with my s4! Man, I love this place :hihi: but seriously, I'll take 122 over 682 or 443 any day.

[4everRS]

I knew you'd pull through for me Mark! Thanks!

The Diodes on mine look ok. Slightly crusty, but not bad for over 95k miles. I gave the alternator a greased lightning bath and rinse. Man did those windings brighten up!
Audi part # for the Alternator is 077903015R (http://javascript<b></b>:;) add a 'X' after the 'R' to find rebuilt which may be all that is available. The voltage regulator is 077903803A (http://javascript<b></b>:;) I haven't found anyone to have a cheaper price on the Regulator than Genuine, I thought that using the Bosch Part # I would be able to find it cheaper but the only cheaper ones I found were aftermarket replacements, not Bosch. Another thing, someone mentioned rebuilding the Regulator to fix bad Diodes, the Diodes are not in the Regulator but are in the other plastic housing bolted onto the back of the Alternator.

[4everRS]

unfortunate news from Bill at Genuine is that they don't have the regulators in stock and think it may take over a MONTH! Trying to pursue different options now. Various online auto parts stores don't have them listed.

[4everRS]

OK update. After calling about 5 places and trying various online suppliers, I called the local auto electrical shop in my area with the Bosch part # (as I tried with the other's) and they will have it by tuesday for 100 bucks. They said it is a genuine bosch but won't have the VW logo on - then he chuckeled a little. I am skeptical of fitment and will know on tuesday.
unfortunate news from Bill at Genuine is that they don't have the regulators in stock and think it may take over a MONTH! Trying to pursue different options now. Various online auto parts stores don't have them listed.

[Chung]

Crap I wish I saw this earlier. I bought a Bosch alternator from autopartwarehouse and it did not fit. Not only that but they wouldn't take it back even though their site sells it as an exact OEM replacement. Now the question is did the shop I took the car to try to scam me or the the part supplier. My hunch is the part supplier.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Audi/RS6/Bosch/Alternator/2003/Base/8_Cyl_4-dot-2L/W0133-1599515.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain

[4everRS]

I saw that one on their website. Then I saw the picture of the 90' offset pulley. I thought first that it was one of those generic photos, but it didn't say so and made you assume that was the actual unit.

Regardless, I would bitch hard on that one Chung. It clearly states that part is the replacement for the RS6, and of course it is not.

[Chung]

I went at it for over a week with them back and forth. They have outsourced all of their support and stuck to their policy of 30 day returns (I waited to install the alternator until everything was appart). Needless to say I won't buy from them again. And not just typing this I wonder if I can dispute this with my cc company. Probably too late but I am going to try.

[4everRS]

alright guys, got the replacement regulator installed at auto electric company mentioned previously. $113 with shipping. They tested the alternator and it puts out a nice full charge. He commented that the bearings and brushes look great and will likely go another 95k miles or more.

Think twice before buying a whole new alternator if you need one. Chances are its just the voltage regulator. I'll be trying to install this weekend.

[svir]

Also, for any enthusiast doing this, it is well worth to DIY. I took mine out following the instructions here and ended up using a local alternator place, the bill came to be less than $200.

[LIRS6]

Crap I wish I saw this earlier. I bought a Bosch alternator from autopartwarehouse and it did not fit. Not only that but they wouldn't take it back even though their site sells it as an exact OEM replacement. Now the question is did the shop I took the car to try to scam me or the the part supplier. My hunch is the part supplier.

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Audi/RS6/Bosch/Alternator/2003/Base/8_Cyl_4-dot-2L/W0133-1599515.html?tlc=Engine+%26+Drivetrain

Shows on another seller's webpage as the correct replacement alternator for RS6 - and this pic looks identical to my OEM http://www.carid.com/2003-audi-a6-charging-starting/quality-built-alternator-9411287.html

[Styhl]

for reference the uppper hexbolt is an 8 and the lower is a 13 thanks for the right up Boost my mechanic is following your guide saved me the money for "service position"

[audiprotn]

Battery light came up, voltage was around 12. Happened on the hwy, managed to get back, that was about 15 miles, car felt just fine.
Gonna attempt this DIY.

[Styhl]

Battery light came up, voltage was around 12. Happened on the hwy, managed to get back, that was about 15 miles, car felt just fine.
Gonna attempt this DIY.

I watch my mechanic do this job only struggle he had was there is a tensioning device for after the hexbolts are released to keep the alternator in place, it took a good bit of leverage to actually free from mine, give yourself room to work under the car, good luck. Also duralast via Autozone has a lifetime warranty for 185+80 core if you're in the states

[audiprotn]

Shows on another seller's webpage as the correct replacement alternator for RS6 - and this pic looks identical to my OEM http://www.carid.com/2003-audi-a6-charging-starting/quality-built-alternator-9411287.html
Could anyone please confirm if this is one is good to go?
Or should I just get voltage regulator and rebuild it at a local shop?

[Styhl]

It looks right, but my ship weight was 17lbs, why is there's 15.

[audiprotn]

Maybe difference in packaging?
how much time did it take your mechanic to switch them?

[Styhl]

Billed me 2 hours, maybe took a bit longer, was there 3 but it was Saturday and he had people come thru ya have to stop and chat with.

[audiprotn]

That's nice!

now, anyone could help with removing those oil lines?
How do you get in there

[Styhl]

That's nice!

now, anyone could help with removing those oil lines?
How do you get in there

I think my mechanic used a crescent from underneath, you have to take the intercooler tube off first, expect a bit of oil have a drip pan.

[audiprotn]

I think my mechanic used a crescent from underneath, you have to take the intercooler tube off first, expect a bit of oil have a drip pan.
Yeah, intercooler pipe was easy to take off. Drained all the oil prior to that as well.
Now I still don't see the space how to take those likes off.

[Styhl]

I thought it was the 2 big aluminum looking nuts, I was doing stuff in the trunk while he did that part but he put em back on with a crescent wrench

[audiprotn]

Ok, got it. Actually was easy. Now on to removing alternator

[audiprotn]

Stupid question, but could someone please explain how to release tension from the serpantine belt from underneath.

[LIRS6]

Stupid question, but could someone please explain how to release tension from the serpantine belt from underneath.

There is a spring loaded roller which can be pushed up, and that releases tension on the belt

[audiprotn]

There is a spring loaded roller which can be pushed up, and that releases tension on the belt
Yes, I finally figured that out. But for some reason I still couldn't release it. Is there a special tool? I tried with the ratchet but that did not work for me.

[audiprotn]

Found this alternator http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/150ampboalfo11.html

[LIRS6]

Found this alternator http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/150ampboalfo11.html

You may not need an alternator --- maybe just the regulator. That was my issue, as with many others on the forum as well. Regulator cost only about $40 iirc. But you do have to drop the Alternator to swap out the regulator.

Ref the pulley, there is a place where you can put a socket wrench and use that as leverage to move the pulley up, releasing tension .. look for it

Found it : I bought my regulator for $36 from RMEuropean.com - Bosch # 0031546506

[audiprotn]

You may not need an alternator --- maybe just the regulator. That was my issue, as with many others on the forum as well. Regulator cost only about $40 iirc. But you do have to drop the Alternator to swap out the regulator.

Ref the pulley, there is a place where you can put a socket wrench and use that as leverage to move the pulley up, releasing tension .. look for it

Found it : I bought my regulator for $36 from RMEuropean.com - Bosch # 0031546506
Thanks, I read about it but decided to go with remanufactured Bosch for $150. Coming in this Friday.

[audiprotn]

Having a really hard time pushing it in, seems almost impossible, especially since the car is on ramps.
Maybe someone could suggest anything?
thanks

[Styhl]

I know my mechanic raised it above just ramps with jack stands, don't know if that will let u get more leverage, but mine slipped right back in for him, so idk if that helps, all I can think of.

[audiprotn]

I know my mechanic raised it above just ramps with jack stands, don't know if that will let u get more leverage, but mine slipped right back in for him, so idk if that helps, all I can think of.
I can't slide in the top of it back inside ( where the Allen bolt goes in).
Tried using rubber hammer but that did not really help.
P.S. This is my first DIY this complicated haha

[Zmey]

Sir I might be passing by your area tomorrow, I can take a look at it. Lol

[LIRS6]

I can't slide in the top of it back inside ( where the Allen bolt goes in).
Tried using rubber hammer but that did not really help.
P.S. This is my first DIY this complicated haha

Patience is the key - i did mine on jack stands, so lying on my back and trying to work it in was no fun, but I eventually got it back in place.
Good luck

[4.2Crew]

Try taking a metal file and chamfering the "ears" (where the bolt passes thru) on the alternater.... It's an extremely tight fit. Good luck!

[EINHORN]

Figured I'd bring this one back to the land of the living as a 'simple' voltage regulator replacement brought Einhorn back from the dead. The bosch part number listed at RMEuropean.com - Bosch # 0031546506 is the one.

Thanks to those who've gone before

[Turbowned]

Good to know this isn't as complicated as I was expecting. Thought it was another "Remove bumper/engine" job, lol. 82,000 miles on mine now and I expect it will come sooner or later. No idea how old my battery is; I should pop the cover off one day and check!

[RSoverAll]

Concerning pn 0031546506​... Huco or Bosch brand? Does it really matter, as I understand it Huco is an OEM manufacturer as well... No one has the Bosch brand vr in my area but everybody has the Huco brand.

Anyone used the Huco brand before- thoughts?

[G2]

Concerning pn 0031546506​... Huco or Bosch brand? Does it really matter, as I understand it Huco is an OEM manufacturer as well... No one has the Bosch brand vr in my area but everybody has the Huco brand.

Anyone used the Huco brand before- thoughts?

Finding the same thing. My euro wholesale supplers carry HUCO. Made in India, which puts me on edge. But the 'Bufkin' pipe is being replace and plant to spend a lot of time at high RPM's in two weeks. :revs:

[RSoverAll]

Finding the same thing. My euro wholesale supplers carry HUCO. Made in India, which puts me on edge. But the 'Bufkin' pipe is being replace and plant to spend a lot of time at high RPM's in two weeks. :revs:

I went ahead with the Huco brand. Have yet to install... Read some about them on the Volvo and Saab forums, seems to be a solid performer over there.

That Bufkin pipe is a very nice piece.

Then again, there is eBay if you want the Bosch unit....

[Other_Erik]

Bosch unit on Amazon goes for $35 shipped (2 days to your door with Prime!)

For future reference, if someone is looking for a replacement alternator to swap-in when something goes wrong with theirs, I've got one on its way back to me fresh rebuild. Was new old stock and only in the car for ~2 hours before the regulator gave up the magic smoke. Yours for way less than Audi's $974 list price (of which they have 0 in stock in the US as of typing this up)

O_E

[fukinavit]

Finding the same thing. My euro wholesale supplers carry HUCO. Made in India, which puts me on edge. But the 'Bufkin' pipe is being replace and plant to spend a lot of time at high RPM's in two weeks. :revs:

Go with the Bosch one, it lasted this long and HUCO is a definatley an eco option brand

[Turbowned]

Anyone have a part number and reliable source on the Bosch unit? We're talking alternator or voltage regulator at this point?

Other_Erik I sent you a PM regarding the one you have. My car sat for three months and lo and behold, voltage drop on the first test drive after all the suspension work.

[Turbowned]

Mine turned out not to be the voltage regulator. It will need a complete alternator replacement. If anyone has a line on an inexpensive one please let me know; the control arms, shocks, steering rack, and wheel refinishing have broken the bank enough as it is :-(

[G2]

Go with the Bosch one, it lasted this long and HUCO is a definatley an eco option brand

Agreed. Have a new HUCO and while the company is German, making parts in India is not inspiring.

Being on a first name basis with my Audi dealer parts guy (tested him today, by just saying my first name for fun), and also in need/want of a quality Vreg, had him price it out with the other bits (including cam bearing cap bolts). And waiting in some heavily fortified German Warehouse, waiting for one of us to pull the trigger. Careful of that aim, eh.

Something like $275 for actual OEM part. Ouch, ouch, ouch.

After perusing the vast array of VW/Audi alternators, pulled the trigger and had one sent over today. Overtly obvious of the different Vreg setup but the chassis form factor seems the same (need to take measurements), including verifying if the Vreg fitment (swapping them). If it works will have a reasonably priced 150amp OE fit RS6 power source.

If not, some wiring adaptations could still lead to a plug and play setup. There's hope, it's just time and money.

Being that my Alt is OEM with 100K miles, the VR is cracked, the front end is off for major service, this is the time.

[Other_Erik]

Well one of these days I'll get my forward replacement back. In the meantime, Kaestner Auto in Waukesha, WI has done well by me - sent them my old alternator when I thought my new one was working - refurb ran me $220 plus s/h. Then after I drove away from the UPS store my new alt's VR let out the magic smoke, so I had another $600 bill to swap the refurb'ed old one back in, and another $150 later (voltage regulator and burnt contacts), the new alternator with 2 hours of use will be sent back to me. I said back in PM that I'd be willing to let this one go for $500 even though I've got ~$850 into it including purchase. If you do want to buy it, I'll take your core for $150 expecting another $250-300 or so in refurb repair to keep a spare on my shelf.

Thanks
O_E

--Edit - Not to mention the weeks of frustration trying to order a new old stock, waiting to hear back from companies that sold me a part they didn't have, no Beast while the alternator was non-functional... Not trying to run up a profit. - /Edit--

[Turbowned]

So, $350 plus shipping damages and my old alt? I'll definitely keep that in mind. My tech is trying with his sources but to no avail so far.

[Other_Erik]

So, $350 plus shipping damages and my old alt? I'll definitely keep that in mind. My tech is trying with his sources but to no avail so far.

Your tech is going through the same headache as me and my tech went through last month - zero alternators in stock, roll the dice on a used unit from ebay, or be put on the 6-week waiting list to get one from Germany (list price is/was $974). I am still waiting on my 2nd refurb (new old stock 2hour unit) to get back to me, will PM you again if/when it shows up. I know the heartache of not having the Beast for extended periods of time :|

O_E

[Turbowned]

Well luckily I don't *need* mine again til the snow starts falling, but at the same time it's sitting on my tech's lift after he just did all that work to it

[Turbowned]

What about this one: http://www.amazon.com/ALTERNATOR-2003-2004-0-124-615-008-077-903-015R-0124615008/dp/B009VKK3TS

Is 077-903-015R right or no?

[Other_Erik]

What about this one: http://www.amazon.com/ALTERNATOR-2003-2004-0-124-615-008-077-903-015R-0124615008/dp/B009VKK3TS

Is 077-903-015R right or no?

That's the correct alternator, and is exactly the one I ordered that only lasted an hour before it died - check out the one review, that's from me.

O_E

[Turbowned]

That's the correct alternator, and is exactly the one I ordered that only lasted an hour before it died - check out the one review, that's from me.

O_E

Ha! I had a feeling that was you, LOL. They do have a lot of positive reviews on NewEgg.com, however. Wonder if you just got a dud?

[Other_Erik]

Ha! I had a feeling that was you, LOL. They do have a lot of positive reviews on NewEgg.com, however. Wonder if you just got a dud?

Entirely possible I got a dud, but the distributor should've honored a reasonable warranty and at least offered to help with the extra $600 I had to shell out to have their bad alternator removed and my refurb'ed alternator re-installed. I contacted them and they offered to send me another replacement alternator _after_ I shipped the lemon back to them :|

[EINHORN]

I second the none in stock anywhere comment. I had a couple sold to me that didn't exist only to have sneaky credit issued back to AMEX while waiting patiently. Take it out have it rebuilt.

[G2]

My local rebuilder can source Bosch VR's at reasonable prices. Since I had the HUCO already, put that in. The OE unit was cracked.

Rebuilder said it's better not to break the case halves apart. Too many bearing issues, unless it absolutely needs them. Mine were tip top thankfully.

Would a new reman Bosch 120amp at far less cost be of interest? I was kicking this around for myself.

[Other_Erik]

My local rebuilder can source Bosch VR's at reasonable prices. Since I had the HUCO already, put that in. The OE unit was cracked.

Rebuilder said it's better not to break the case halves apart. Too many bearing issues, unless it absolutely needs them. Mine were tip top thankfully.

Would a new reman Bosch 120amp at far less cost be of interest? I was kicking this around for myself.

Agree on the case halves comment, but when you've got bearings that have taken a beating and brushes that need replacing, no choice there. I had my OE unit rebuilt damn near from scratch, and it set me back a little bit of pocket change (to the tune of ~$325 all in). That said, I wouldn't be looking at a 120A unit unless you've stripped some electronics out - stock unit is 150A, and there are plenty of things that suck up the juice. Cooling fans on full pull ~40A, HVAC can pull nearly the same between compressor and fans, stock radio pulls maybe 12A at full blast... oh, and of course you need to feed fuel pump and spark :)

According to the rebuilder, I should get my 2-hours-used unit back today sometime, assuming the post office doesn't forward my mail to god-only-knows-where like they have been the past 2 weeks :|

O_E

[Turbowned]

My tech can get a reman from Audi in the $500 range; thinking I should just go that way and be done with it... *grumble* I know it's not a Toyota Camry but still, no reason whatsoever why it should cost so much more!

[Other_Erik]

My tech can get a reman from Audi in the $500 range; thinking I should just go that way and be done with it... *grumble* I know it's not a Toyota Camry but still, no reason whatsoever why it should cost so much more!

Pull the trigger and get your old one rebuilt, then you have a spare sitting on the shelf.

Mine was rebuilt and then delivered to my old address (I moved last month) even though I noted to the rebuilder that my address had changed no less than 4 different ways. :| Going to swing by the old place on the way home today (30 minutes in the wrong direction) and hopefully it's still sitting on the porch there.

O_E

[audiprotn]

Found this alternator http://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/150ampboalfo11.html
Got mine for $180
Sent back my old one (core).
Would recommend this company

[Other_Erik]

Got mine for $180
Sent back my old one (core).
Would recommend this company

And they actually have/had one in stock? Lucky! Everyone I tried had zero stock.

[audiprotn]

In stock, and fast processing. That was a year ago. I would call them with any questions.

[bethridg]

If anyone wants to roll the dice.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-077903015R-AUDI-RS6-03-04-4-2T-BCY-/141543916010?fits=Make%3AAudi%7CModel%3ARS6&hash=item20f4acc1ea&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-077903015R-AUDI-RS6-03-04-4-2T-BCY-/141543916010?fits=Make%3AAudi%7CModel%3ARS6&hash=item20f4acc1ea&vxp=mtr)

[UrS6]

That looks like it was found underwater. What is the minimum voltage while running and driving? I'm seeing 13.2/13.3 which I think is too low. Upon starting my car it runs at 12v for about 30 seconds. My battery light is faintly lit. Mechanic put a new voltage regulator in a while back. I think I need a new alternator. But I'll have to check the voltage at the alternator.

[Other_Erik]

That looks like it was found underwater. What is the minimum voltage while running and driving? I'm seeing 13.2/13.3 which I think is too low. Upon starting my car it runs at 12v for about 30 seconds. My battery light is faintly lit. Mechanic put a new voltage regulator in a while back. I think I need a new alternator. But I'll have to check the voltage at the alternator.

Minimum voltage should be 13.4-13.6. Brand new out of the box the Vset is supposed to give 14.3v.

From the symptoms you're talking about (12v on startup, ramp to 13.2-13.3 once warmed up), it sounds like you have a good Vset in, but likely need brushes and bearings. Rebuild cost from Kaestner will likely be in the $225-275 range. If maniacelectricmotors can do better pricing and have a forward replacement, more power to them.

I did finally get my 2-hours-used alternator back yesterday and am willing to send out on the conditions above, dibs to Turbowned since he's been asking the longest. $500 to my PayPal, with $150 refund once I get the core back.

O_E

[EINHORN]

maniac didn't have any when I was looking.

[ryan4186]

I followed all the steps here and successfully uninstalled all nearby hoses, sway bar, the two wires and the two bolts holding the alternator on. When the alternator was seemingly "free", I cannot for the life of me get it to come out. It appears the two "ears" the come up from the alternator housing and line up with the support brace for the top bolt to slide through - that bolt is removed and not broken - the alternator will pivot back and forth on this point, but I cannot get it to come down. I've tried wiggling it back and forth for almost an hour, wrapping a belt around it and using a bar to leverage it down, and pulling from various angles with a pry bar - ultimately about 3 hours with 2 guys pulling at it a dozen ways. It won't come lose. Does anyone has any wisdom for this? Maybe something super simple that we're missing I hope, but at this point, if I can't figure out how to remove it I will have to get a flat bed and have it hauled to a shop.

[4everRS]

Ryan,
I had a similar experience. Maybe yours is a bit worse. I ended up getting pissed of enough that I just started jerking HARD on a large pry bar, and I saw it coming out. It is literally just wedged in those ears. I would spray some very good penetrating lube on it and pry more. Good luck.

Upon reinstallation, I sanded off some of the material in the alternator to get it back in better. This was all on my first rs6. Now totaled and disappeared.

[P1054]

I can second what 4everRS said. I had my engine out and still struggled, it was literally just squeezed so tight it felt like it was still bolted. When I reinstalled it I also sanded it a bit as 4everRS mentioned.

[4.2Crew]

I will third what Kyle (4everRS) and P1054 stated.... I too resorted to a pry bar to lever the bitch downward while pivoting it back and forth. Once out, I chamfered the ears using a file to facilitate re-installation as Kyle suggested. Good luck and don't give up!

[Other_Erik]

Haven't had the pleasure of replacing my alternator myself, but I did have fun with getting the wrong part from a reseller...

Apparently somewhere along the lines, there was an issue with an interchange part number being circulated. The interchange number (0124615008) is listed as compatible with the RS6, but it is not. The shaft is too short, not thick enough, and is recessed into the housing about 8 millimeters. The correct part number is Audi P/N 077903015R. I managed to track down the ETKA parts listing thanks to Jim Ellis parts site, and the pulley is also a different part number (since it's made to fit a wider shaft) - 077903119F

I'm still sorting out the mayhem that all caused when I tried to do a local guy a solid by handing over my bench spare. Kaestner Auto Electric is now rebuilding said spare to have the proper parts for the next time around.

Lesson of the day - if you need an alternator, don't use the interchange part. Audi OE only, P/N 077903015R - accept no substitutes.

O_E

[SteveKen]

The problem with getting them in/out is pretty universal with all the Audi platforms. The rear of the alternator where the long bolt threads in is a sleeve that ends up getting pulled towards the front when the long bolt is tightened.

Once you wiggle it out, you can press or gently tap the sleeve away from the front side of the alternator and it becomes easier to get back in.

On a similar note, I'm experimenting with an alternate alternator :) to see if the abundant 4.2 one (in the A8s among other ones) will work with the RS6 regulator. I think that ht only difference in the regulator is that the connector is different? I'm not sure what else it would be. Why they would have made the RS6 one specific from the other 4.2 alternators is beyond me. They're all 200A, correct?

[Other_Erik]

The problem with getting them in/out is pretty universal with all the Audi platforms. The rear of the alternator where the long bolt threads in is a sleeve that ends up getting pulled towards the front when the long bolt is tightened.

Once you wiggle it out, you can press or gently tap the sleeve away from the front side of the alternator and it becomes easier to get back in.

On a similar note, I'm experimenting with an alternate alternator :) to see if the abundant 4.2 one (in the A8s among other ones) will work with the RS6 regulator. I think that ht only difference in the regulator is that the connector is different? I'm not sure what else it would be. Why they would have made the RS6 one specific from the other 4.2 alternators is beyond me. They're all 200A, correct?


150A, not 200. From my experience with the "interchange" part, there's a difference in the input shaft length, diameter, and depth, as well as the pulley being a different part (to snug to the larger shaft in the RS6 specific alternator)

If you can find a better way, I'm all for it, especially if we can have a higher-output alternator... HID fog lights, here I come!

O_E

[Turbowned]

Alright, I'm towing mine home tomorrow and DIY'ing this job. My indy's quoting me $1200 for parts/labor for alt and battery and I just can't justify that when I can spend $100 on a tow, $2-250+shipping for Kaestner to rebuild, and cost+10% on the battery considering I work for Firestone now (pity I can't work on my own car on the lifts at work).

Question: when unbolting the oil cooler lines, do you have to disconnect them and drain the oil or just unbolt them from their mounting position?

[4.2Crew]

Question: when unbolting the oil cooler lines, do you have to disconnect them and drain the oil or just unbolt them from their mounting position?

Just unbolt and gently move the lines to the side----no need to drain.

[LIRS6]

Alright, I'm towing mine home tomorrow and DIY'ing this job. My indy's quoting me $1200 for parts/labor for alt and battery and I just can't justify that when I can spend $100 on a tow, $2-250+shipping for Kaestner to rebuild, and cost+10% on the battery considering I work for Firestone now (pity I can't work on my own car on the lifts at work).

Question: when unbolting the oil cooler lines, do you have to disconnect them and drain the oil or just unbolt them from their mounting position?

my issue was regulator only - replaced it for $35 or so - you may want to try that first before spending $200-250 on re-building it, not to mention the down time while in transit

[Bigglezworth]

Regulator can be swapped out in-situ also depending on your tools and size of hands.

[Turbowned]

Tried swapping the regulator to no avail. Got it home today and put a fresh battery in it, now the car won't start; just turns over and immediately dies. I started a new thread...

[Turbowned]

Got the alternator out last night; add PB B'laster or WD40 to your list of necessary tools for this job. I wiggled the little guy back and forth for a while before coming back and reading this thread again. Doused the bracket in PB, let it sit for a few, and it popped right out! On it's way to Kaestner for a rebuild now...

[Turbowned]

Got the alternator back from Kaestner Auto Electric on Monday and installed it that evening; fixed!! Tom at Kaestner was extremely helpful; the customer service is excellent and I highly recommend them as an alternative to buying a $600 reman from Audi if you have the luxury of time. Total damage including shipping both ways was ~$230; I estimate at least $55 of that was shipping. They rebuilt the unit and installed a new Bosch voltage regulator. Tom explained to me that my alternator tested properly but the Huco voltage regulator my indy tech put in might have been incorrect, causing it to not function properly. This ticks me off a little since I explained to my tech that I wanted to use the Bosch in the first place and he went with the Huco which was available that day. I don't know if anyone else has had success with the Huco regulator, but be wary at any rate! Installation was slightly less difficult than removal as I didn't have to wrestle with it as much to get it in as I did to get it out.

[lswing]

Glad to hear it, thanks for the good information!

[RS Sick]

Almost done with this diy. Just to clarify, the two metal oil lines need to be removed from the filter housing right? Anybody know what size wrench it takes? I'm thinking one of the vertical 90 degree plumbers wrenches should work.

[RS Sick]

17561
Here are the oil lines I'm referencing.

[SteveKen]

17561
Here are the oil lines I'm referencing.

I'm pretty sure I use a 27mm crow foot on these. I can check tonight to be sure

[nubcake]

I'm pretty sure I use a 27mm crow foot on these. I can check tonight to be sure

Wasn't it 32mm?
I'm not sure either. :)

[SteveKen]

I'm pretty sure I use a 27mm crow foot on these. I can check tonight to be sure

Forgot to post last night.

I can confirm it is 27mm

[RS Sick]

Thank you sir!

[G2]

I use a 1-1/16" 12pt Crow foot by Snap-On.

[BradP]

Just did my alternator last week. Standard 27mm crows foot did the job, and a 27mm spanner crows foot showed up after I was done. You have slightly more room on the farthest passenger (right side) line. So, loosen it first and get the 'nut' out of the way for the other. Putting it together do the left side first then the right.

They say you don't have to do service position to get in there, but I did anyway (including the intake plenum). I was glad I did because it took about 50 hard whacks with a BFH and a 3 foot rod to get the freakin' alternator out of there. Hit it 10 times, climb under, rotate with a pry bar, hit it 10 times... I actually broke part of the casing beating on the stupid thing. I measured the distance between the ears (or the little nutsert) and the old one was a full .030" less than the new one. New one fit snug, but not tight like it should.

Additionally, it's always bothered me I didn't do some kind of wrap while doing the timing belt. Casting tape for fun:) Yes, I know it's goofy.

17563

[SteveKen]

Just did my alternator last week. Standard 27mm crows foot did the job, and a 27mm spanner crows foot showed up after I was done. You have slightly more room on the farthest passenger (right side) line. So, loosen it first and get the 'nut' out of the way for the other. Putting it together do the left side first then the right.

They say you don't have to do service position to get in there, but I did anyway (including the intake plenum). I was glad I did because it took about 50 hard whacks with a BFH and a 3 foot rod to get the freakin' alternator out of there. Hit it 10 times, climb under, rotate with a pry bar, hit it 10 times... I actually broke part of the casing beating on the stupid thing. I measured the distance between the ears (or the little nutsert) and the old one was a full .030" less than the new one. New one fit snug, but not tight like it should.

Additionally, it's always bothered me I didn't do some kind of wrap while doing the timing belt. Casting tape for fun:) Yes, I know it's goofy.

17563

The nut on the back of the alternator housing that the long bolt goes through is actually a steel sleeve in the aluminum housing.

When the bolt is tightened, the sleeve pinches and makes it really hard to remove from the hanger that it attaches to. If you have access to the front, you can loosen the long bolt a couple threads and hit the screw head with a hammer to push the sleeve back a bit and gain some clearance. Just don't damage the screw head when hitting it.

When re-installing the new alternator, you can press the sleeve back to get some clearance or do it on a bench with the long screw inserted and hit it again. You just have to be careful that you don't break the lauminum components.

[Bigglezworth]

I personally find the additional hour it takes to put the front clip in to service position is well offset with a reduction in time to R&R the alternator. In similar fashion as trying to remove the tranny without removing the entire powerplant as a whole, this is one of those repairs that benefits from putting the front clip in service position.

[sempaipaul]

Guys,

I am having an alternator or voltage regulator issue on my RS. Can the voltage regulator be replaced fairly easily without removing the actual alternator?

Thanks,
Paul

[4.2Crew]

No...

Good news tho: Assembly can be removed (with some finesse) without placing the carrier in the service position. AND, the alt/regulator can be rebuilt for under $150 by automotive electric service shops.

[Tech73]

Figured I'd bring this one back to the land of the living as a 'simple' voltage regulator replacement brought Einhorn back from the dead. The bosch part number listed at RMEuropean.com - Bosch # 0031546506 is the one.

Thanks to those who've gone before


I just replaced my voltage regulator also. Got it from RMEuropean.com Brought it back from 11.5v to 14.4v!
Also many thanks to those who have gone before!

[Brazil]

No...

Good news tho: Assembly can be removed (with some finesse) without placing the carrier in the service position. AND, the alt/regulator can be rebuilt for under $150 by automotive electric service shops.

This is actually incorrect. The VR can be replaced without removing the alternator or undoing the acc belt. Oil lines come loose like the procedure above. The plastic cover over the back of the alternator can be partially removed and flexed up and out of the way without removing the top nut. Then, the VR can be removed and replaced, be careful not to strip the phillips heads. This obviously only works if the VR has failed and the rest of the unit does not need a rebuild. Mine has been perfect for a month after just doing the VR.

Good luck.

[hahnmgh63]

Holy crap Brazil, you still around. Haven't seen you here in years. Wife gotten you working overtime?

[Brazil]

Holy crap Brazil, you still around. Haven't seen you here in years. Wife gotten you working overtime?

Yep, still kicking. I don't drive the RS as much these days. My daily is a V10 TDi Touareg, but it's in the shop for warranty (extended) replacement of both turbos and the tandem pump. My lift is laying on the ground at the moment and I don't have as much time for engine pulls with other stupid toys that need work. Working a lot more, too.

I hope you're well. Would be cool to meet up again, but my schedule's a mess. Haha.

[ben916]

Yep, still kicking. I don't drive the RS as much these days. My daily is a V10 TDi Touareg, but it's in the shop for warranty (extended) replacement of both turbos and the tandem pump. My lift is laying on the ground at the moment and I don't have as much time for engine pulls with other stupid toys that need work. Working a lot more, too.

I hope you're well. Would be cool to meet up again, but my schedule's a mess. Haha.

Without giving away too much:
I asked someone of the KW EME group (S.... Khamneian) if you were still at YBOP and she said no...

[Brazil]

Without giving away too much:
I asked someone of the KW EME group (S.... Khamneian) if you were still at YBOP and she said no...

Yep, I left in early 2014, I think. I'm a patent attorney these days. You sold your RS? Shame!